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W^YNE s. yUCINlCH^ ': 



GEIS£L LIBRAtV y 



UNIVKSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN MiGO *^ V 



LA XXiA, CALHORNIA 









A ^ 







JfVAYNE S. VUCINiCH 







i '^ 







JOURNALS, 







PRINTED BY L. SEELEY, THAMES DITTON, SURREY. 













?• 







i^ ^A / •-^-isi 







JOURNALS '•-^' l>y 



OF THE 



Rev. Messrs. ISENBEEG AND KRAPF, 



MISSIONARIES OF 



THE CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY, 







DETAILING THEIR PROCEEDINGS IN THE KINGDOM OF SHOA, 



AND JOURNEYS IN OTHER PARTS OF ABYSSINIA, 



IN THE YEARS 18-39, 1840, 1841, AND 1842. 







TO WHICH IS PREFIXED, 



A GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF ABYSSINIA AND SOUTH-EASTERN 



AFRICA, BY JAMES M'qUEEN, ESQ. GROUNDED ON THE 



missionaries' JOURNALS, AND THE EXPEDITION 



OF THE PACHA. OF EGYPT UP THE NILE. 







THE WHOLE 1LLUSTRATE11 BY TWO MAPS, ENGRAVED 

BY ARROWSMITH. 







SKELEY, BURNSIDE, AND SEELEY, 



FLEET STREET, LONDON. 



MDCCCXLIII. 







PREFACE. 







The operations of the Church Missionary Society iu 

Abyssinia commenced in the year 1829. The Rev. 

Samuel Gobat and the Rev. Christian Kugler, the first 

Protestant Missionaries who entered that country, landed 

at Massowah in Dec. 1829. They were favourably re- 

ceived by Sebagadis, the then Ras of Tigre. Mr. Ku- 

gler was removed by death just one year after his land- 

ing at Massowah : he died in the expression of lively 

faith in the Redeemer, and of a. good hope through grace, 

on Dec. 29, 1830. Mr. Kugler^s place iu the Mission 

was supplied by the Rev. Charles William Isenbei'g, 

who reached Adowah, in Tigre, in April, 1835. He 

was followed by the Rev. Charles Henry Blumhardt in 

the beginning of 1837, and by the Rev. John Ludwig 

Krapf at the close of that year. 



In the beginning of 1830 Mr. Gobat proceeded to 

Gondar, the capital of Amhara, where he was kindly 

received and protected by Oubea, then exercising chief 



a 







VI PREFACE. 



authority in that part of Abyssinia.* In 1836 Mr. Go- 

bat was compelled by ill health to quit the Mission. 



Early in 1838 ojiposition to the Mission was excited 

by the priesthood of the Abyssinian Chiu'ch^ fomented 

by certain members of the Church of Rome who had 

entered the country. The result was, that the Mission- 

aries were obliged to quit Abyssinia, Oubea declaring 

that he was not able to resist their enemies any 

longer. 



On quitting Abyssinia, Messrs. Isenberg and Blum- 

hardt proceeded to Cairo. jNIr. Krapf being unwilling 

to relinquish the hope of re-entering Abyssinia from 

another quarter, determined to make the attempt to do 

so by Zeila, which lies without the Straits of Babel- 

raandeb, in lat. 11° 20' north, long. 43° 50' east. He 

was led to contemplate this attempt in consequence of 

the Missionaries, while at Adowah, hadng been imdted 

by the King of Shoa to visit his country. ]Ir. Krapf 

accordingly proceeded to Mocha, where he arrived on 

the 28th of May, 1838. Here he met ■mih. a servant 

of the King of Shoa, who encouraged him to prosecute 

the design which he had formed, and gave him much 

iufonuation as to the best method of proceeding from 

Zeila to the capital of the King of Shoa. From Mr. 

Naylor, the British Consul at Mocha, Mr. Krapf met 

with a friendly reception, and the promise of every 



* The result of Mr. Gobat's residence in Abyssinia was published in 

1834, in a volume entitled ".Journal of a Three Years' Residence in Abys- 

sinia, in furtherance of the objects of the Church Missionary Society." 







PREFACE. Vn 







assistance in liis power. While he was employed in 

collecting information at Mocha, he was attacked by 

dysentery; which reduced him so low, that he was 

compelled to retm-n to Cau'o, where he arrived on the 

27th of September, 1838. 



Mr. Isenberg and Mr. Krapf now seriously delibe- 

rated on their futiu*e course ; and came to the conclu- 

sion jointly to engage in an attempt to reach Shoa by 

way of Zeila and Hurrm*. Should they fail in their 

object with regard to Shoa, it was their purpose to 

make their way, if possible, to the tribes of Heathen 

Gallas, which are spread over the country to the south- 

ward and eastward of Shoa. 



Colonel Campbell, then British Consul-General at 

Cairo, prociu-ed for the Missionaries a firman from the 

Pacha of Egypt. He also gave them letters to the 

Consul at Mocha, and to the King of Shoa, strongly 

recommending the Missionaries to then* protection and 

favour. Mr. Gliddon, the United States' Consul-Gene- 

ral at Cairo, gave them a letter, recommending them to 

the friendly offices of all captains of United States' 

vessels with whom they might meet. 



Thus aided and encom-aged, they started on their 

arduous undertaking. jNIr. Krapf thus concluded a 

letter from Caii-o to the Secretaries of the Chui'ch Mis- 

sionaiy Society, Jan. 20, 1839 : " May the Lord of Sa- 

baoth be our guide, our preserver, our strength, our 

light, and our life 1" 



From Mocha they crossed to the opposite coast, 







Vlll PREFACE. 



passed the straits of Babelmandeb, and on the 4th of 

April arrived at Tadjurra, which they found preferable 

to Zeila as a point of departure to the interior. After 

encountering the many difficulties which embarrass 

travellers in these unfrequented regions, they reached 

the frontier of the kingdom of Shoa on the 31st of 

jNIay, the journey having occupied thii-ty-five days. 

They had an interview with the King on the 7th of 

June, who gave them a favourable reception. 



The Missionaries remained together in the kingdom 

of Shoa until November 6, 1839 ; when Mr. Isenberg 

departed, to return for a season to this country. During 

these five months they were diligently occupied in con- 

versational preaching and discussion, and in obtaining 

a great variety of information. Mr. Isenberg had made 

considerable progress in translations into the Amharic 

Language, both while in Tigre, and after his arrival in 

Shoa. A leading object of his isit to England was to 

print the works which he had prepared, for the future 

use of the Mission wherever the Amharic Language is 

vernacular. He arrived in London on the 30th of April, 

1840. Here he completed works already commenced, 

and prepared several others. He eventually carried 

through the Press : — 



An Amharic Spelling Book. 8vo. 



Grammar. Royal Bvo. 



Dictionary. 4to. 



Catechism. Bvo. 



Chui'ch History. 8vo. 







PREFACE. IX 



Amharic General History. 8vo. 



Mr. Isenberg had prepared a Vocabulary of the 

Daiikali Language, which was likewise printed. 



Tlie object of the Mission was not only the Chris- 

tian population of Shoa, but the Galla Tribes exten- 

sively spread over the south-eastern parts of Africa. 

To the Galla language therefore, hitherto unwritten, 

Mr. Krapf s attention was much given. During Mr. 

Isenberg's stay in London the following Galla works, 

prepared by Mr. Krapf, were printed : — 



Vocabulary. 12mo. 



Elements of the Galla Language. 12mo. 



St. Matthew's Gospel. 12mo. 



St. John's Gospel. 12mo. 



The Committee have since received from INIr. Krapf 

a translation into Galla of the Book of Genesis, and of 

the Epistle to the Romans. 



While Mr. Isenberg was absent in England, Mr. 

Krapf, though alone, and painfully feeling the diffi- 

culties and disadvantages of his solitariness, occupied 

himself diligently and zealously in his arduous duties. 

Amidst much to try and discourage him, he was gra- 

ciously sustained in his work, and not left without 

tokens of the Divine blessing upon it. The nature of 

that work, and the difficulties and trials incident to the 

prosecution of it, are fully detailed in the Joui-nals of 

the Missionaries contained in this Volume. 



Dm-ing the period that Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf 

were together in the Mission, their communications were 







X PREFACE. 



sometimes addressed to the Committee jointly, and 

sometimes independently. In placing those commu- 

nications before the reader, the chronological order 

has been followed. Hence sometimes one speaks, and 

sometimes the other. The tenour of the remarks 

will, however, generally indicate the individual who 

makes them. From the period when Mr. Isenberg 

quitted Shoa, in the beginning of November 1839,* it 

is of course Mr. Krapf alone that speaks. 



Mr. Krapf's private affairs having called himto Egypt, 

he left Ankobar on the 10th of March, 1842. He de- 

termined to go by Goudar and Massowah. One object 

was personal communication with the new Abuna, the 

ecclesiastical head of the Abyssinian Church. In this ob- 

ject he was disappointed. Just before he reached Daunt, 

in the province of Belissen, his progress was stopped in 

consequence of the country having been thrown into a 

state of confusion by hostilities between two of the Chiefs 

of that part of Abyssinia. Hence he was obliged to 

retrace his steps to Gatira, the capital of a Chief named 

Adara Bille. This man on Mr. Krapf's advance had 

treated him with kindness, and gained his confidence. 

He now, however, determined to plunder him. By a 

series of artful proceedings he effected his purpose, 

and stripped Mr. Krapf of the whole of his property. 

His life itself was seriously endangered. A gracious 

Providence rescued him from the perils of his situa- 

tion. Having obtained leave to depart from Gatu'a, he 



*p. IGO. 







PREFACE. XI 



determined to attempt reaching Massowah by a route 

directed to the north-east. Throughout this journey 

he encountered great hardships^ privations, and dan- 

gers; but under the defence of the Most High, in 

whom he trusted, he was brought to Massowah in 

safetj^, on the 1st of May, 1842. This journey led 

Mr. Krapf through parts of Abyssinia not previously 

traversed by Europeans. This portion of his Journal 

is therefore of much interest for the geographical infor- 

mation which it contains, as well as for the insight 

which it gives into the state of the people. 



In Egypt Mr. Krapf met his fellow labourer Mr. 

Isenberg returning to Abyssinia. Mr. Blumhardt, 

their former associate in Tigre, had been transferred by 

the Committee to the North India Mission. He had 

been replaced in the Abyssinian Mission by the Rev. 

John Miihleisen, who reached Cairo in company with 

]Ir. Isenberg. The three Missionaries and Mrs. 

Krapf, to whom Mr. Krapf had been united in Egypt, 

left Cairo on the 17th Oct. They reached Aden on 

the 2nd of Nov. On the 18th of Dec. they sailed 

for Tadjun'a, and reached that place on the 20th. Here 

they found a series of obstacles opposed to their re- 

entrance into Abyssinia. Having in vain employed 

every means in their power to surmount those obstacles, 

they were compelled to relinquish the attempt and 

return to Aden. Of the precise nature of the causes 

which operated to close the door against the return of 

the Missionaries to Shoa we are not at present fully in- 







xii PREFACE. 



formed. From what has transpired, however, it is pro- 

bable that they are of the same description as those 

which led to the expulsion of the Missionaries from 

Tigre — the jealousy of the Priesthood and politico- 

popish intrigue. 



Reference will be seen in the Journals to a French 

traveller, M. Rochet. He arrived in Shoa in Oct. 1839. 

After some stay there he returned to France, and in 

1841 published at Paris a volume entitled, " Voyage 

dans la cote orientale de la ]Ier Rouge, dans la pays 

d'Adel, et la Royaume de Choa.'^ (Shoa.) In the 

course of his work he gives an account of the eccle- 

siastical affairs of Abyssinia. He closes this account 

Avith the following remarks, which instructively warn 

Protestants — if warning were needed — of the policy 

and plans of Rome. 



" The critical state of Christianity in the kingdom of 

Shoa should call for the efforts of a Catholic Mission to 

that country. I should desire that Missionaries of this 

communion might succeed in rallying the Amharras 

round it; but I think there is not a more delicate task — 

that there is not a work which demands more prudence: 

an ardent inconsiderate zeal would endanger all. Our 

Missionaries should not forget that the heat of the 

Portuguese Jesuits lost all the advantages which Catho- 

licism had previously obtained, and ended by causing 

them to be driven out of Abyssinia in the sixteenth 

century. The Abyssinians still remember the violent 

dissensions which the vehemence of the Jesuits had 







PREFACE. Xlll 



created among them. The last traces of this remem- 

brance — grievous precedent for Catholicism — must be 

effaced by means of forbearance and tolerance. Our 

Missionaries ought even to be cautious of avowing then* 

intention. It will, I doubt not, be for the interest of 

their cause — and an able and auspicious pohcy— only 

to present themselves at first as chemists or mechanics, 

after the example of the Jesuits who conducted, in 

the seventeenth century, the glorious China Missions. 

I beheve it unnecessary to add, that a cold, reserved course 

should only be observed until their credit with the king 

and their influence over the country should be solidly 

established by their successful labours. Their efforts 

should at first be directed toward the king, for on his 

conversion alone would depend that of the Amharras. 

Attempts on the Gallas might be tried, by representing 

to the prince of what political advantage it would be 

for him to unite all the members of his states in the 

same unity of faith. It would be necessary to avoid 

showing any jealousy or animosity toward the jNIethodist 

Mission, whose vnse conduct ought on the contrary to 

be followed as a model. In every circumstance it would 

be necessary always to keep in view that the slightest 

imprudence, the least rashness, would suffice to destroy 

for ever in Abyssinia the entrance of Catholicism, per- 

haps of Christianity and of Civilization.'^* 



It is scarcely necessary to say that the " Methodist 

Mission" to which M. Rochet refers, is that of ]Messrs. 



* Rochet, pp. WJ, 190. 

a 5 







XIV PREFACE. 



Isenberg and Kvapf. The Readers of their Journals 

will, however, not fail to remark that they pursued a 

course widely different from that advocated by M. Ro- 

chet for Rome. They uniformly avowed their cha- 

racter as Protestant Missionaries; whose only object 

was, the Lord blessing their labours, to diffuse Scrip- 

tural light in a region of spiritual darkness. 



Whether a re-entrance into Abyssinia may be prac- 

ticable to the Missionaries at a future period, it would 

be vain to speculate. That a measure of scriptural 

light has been diffused by their instrumentality cannot 

be doubted. Many copies of the New Testament in 

Amharic, supplied by the liberality of the British and 

Foreign Bible Society, have been widely dispersed. 

They were received with avidity wherever the Mission- 

aries had an opportunity of circulating them, and in 

Mr. Krapf's journeyings copies were found in remote 

places, far distant from any spot previously visited by a 

Missionary. We may therefore warrantably hope that 

a portion at least of the good seed will take root, and 

bring forth fruit to perfection. 



As it appears that rivers of considerable magnitude 

fall into the Indian Ocean from those parts of Eastern 

Africa inhabited by the Heathen Galla Tribes, Mr. Krapf 

had it in contemplation to make an attempt to re-esta- 

blish the ]lission in that direction, so soon as circum- 

stances would permit. 



During the period of Mr. Krapf s residence at An- 

kobar, a communication was opened between the King 







PREFACE. XV 



of Shoa and the British Authorities in India. An 

Embassy, under the direction of Captain Harris, was 

sent to Shoa by the Governor-General of India. Cap- 

tain Harris reached his destination in July 1841. A 

Treaty was concluded between Captain Harris and the 

King of Shoa on Nov. 13, 1841, establishing a com- 

mercial intercoui'se between the two countries, and gua- 

ranteeing the safety of British subjects in Shoa, and 

the security of their property. At the solicitation of 

Captain Harris, Mr. Krapf acted as his Interpreter in 

negotiating the Treaty; and in a despatch to the Bombay 

Government, Captain Harris thus recorded his sense of 

the value of Mr. Krapf s semces : — 



" Mr. Krapf has submitted with the utmost good- 

will to continual interruption in his more immediate 

quiet avocations, and has never required even the inti- 

mation of a wish to render himself of the greatest 

utility to the Embassy ; not only in the more delicate 

forms of interpretation, which he so well understands, 

but also in those minor points of annoyance which are 

certain in the first instance to arise in a strange country. 

From the first day of our arrival he has, in utter con- 

tempt of all weather, been engaged whenever the inte- 

rests of the service required his presence ; and without 

his most able assistance, and perfect knowledge of Abys- 

sinian life, our situation would have become perplexing, 

and our prospect of success removed to a far distant 

pcriod,^^ 







XVI PREFACE. 



Throughout Captain Harris's stay in the country, he 

showed Mr, Krapf much kindness, and rendered to 

him and the Mission many services. The Embassy 

having been recalled, Captain Harris has just arrived 

in England. We understand he is about immediately 

to lay before the public the information collected oy 

him during eighteen months residence in Shoa. The 

character which Captain Harris has already established 

as a Traveller, in South Africa, warrants the anticipa- 

tion that his work on Abyssinia will prove both 

interesting and important. 



Reference has already been made to the geographi- 

cal information comprised in the Journals now laid 

before the public. Of a portion of this information 

Mr. M'Queen availed himself, with the permission 

of the Committee, in his '* Geographical Survey of 

Africa," published in 1840. On being shewn the sub- 

sequent Journals of the Missionaries, he was so much 

struck with the extent and value of the geographical 

information contained in them, that he very kindly 

offered to draw a Map of Abyssinia, to accompany the 

publication of the Journals, exhibiting the information 

thus acquired. This offer the Committee gratefully 

accepted, and the Map, engraved by Arrowsmith, is 

pretixed to the Journals. 



"While Mr. M'Queen was thus employed, tidings 

reached this country of the result of certain Expeditions 

sent up the Aliite Nile by that remarkable man, 







PREFACE. XVll 



Mahomed Ali, Pacha of Egypt. The information thus 

obtained having an important bearing on south-western 

Abyssinia, as well as on the country south of Nubia, 

almost to the Line, INIr. INPQueen had the goodness 

to draw another ]Iap, exhibiting that information, 

which he presented to the Committee. This Map in- 

cludes the countries from 5" South to 18° North Lati- 

tude, and from 5° to 44° East Longitude. 



In constructing these IMaps Mr. M'Queen has availed 

himself, with great labour, of the information bearing 

on the geography of the countries to which they refer, 

which was accessible to him in the writings of authors 

ancient and modern. Among these, Bruce merits par- 

ticular notice, the statements contained in his Travels 

relative to the geography of Abyssinia, and the sur- 

rounding countries, having, in its general character, 

been very remarkably corroborated by later travellers. 



To the serA-ices just referred to, Mr. jM^Queen has 

added another — a Geographical Memoir, to illus- 

trate the Maps. On this- Memoir IMr. McQueen has 

bestowed much research, and it forms a valuable addi- 

tion to the services already rendered to Africa, by 

this able geographer. The Map of Africa is prefixed 

to the Geographical Memoir. 



To Captain Haines, the Commandant at Aden, the 

Committee owe the expression of their cordial thanks 

for his uniform kindness to the Society's Missionaries, 

and for the valuable assistance which he has at all times 







PREFACE. 







shown himself ready, promptly and cordially, to render 

them in the prosecution of their labours. 







CHURCH MISSIONARY HOUSE, 

SALISBURY SQUARE, 



August 21, 1843. 







CONTENTS. 







PART I. 



JOURNEY FROM ZEILA TO ANKOBAR. 







CHAPTER I. 



DESCRIPTION OF ZEILA — COSTUME AND FOOD OF THE INHA- 

BITANTS — MESSAGE FROM THE GOVERNOR — DEPAR- 

TURE FROM ZEILA ARRIVAL AT TADJURRA INTER- 

VIEW WITH THE SULTAN — DESCRIPTION OF TAD- 

JURRA — DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING CAMELS AND 

MULES — VISIT FROM THE SULTAN — DETENTION AT 

TADJURRA INTENSE HEAT OF THE WEATHER NO- 

TICES RESPECTING ENAREA, SIDAMA, AND GURAGUE 

DISCUSSION WITH A TIGRE MERCHANT RESPECT- 

ING ISLAMISM. ----... 







CHAPTER II. 



PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTING FROM TADJURRA — SEL- 

FISHNESS OF MAHOMED ALI — DEPARTURE FROM 



TADJURRA NOTICES OF AMBABO, DULLUL, SUKTA, 



AND SAGGALLO — PECULIARITIES OF THE DANKALI 







XX CONTENTS. 



PEOPLE — DEPARTURE FROM SAGGALLO — NOTICES OF 



THE SALT LAKE ASSAL CONVERSATION WITH ALl 



ARAB RESPECTING THE DANKALI TRIBES INSTANCE 



OF THE SULTAN OF TADJURRa's WEAKNESS — ARRI- 

VAL AT GAGADE INTENSE HEAT — DEPARTURE FROM 



GAGADE, AND ARRIVAL AT DALIBUI, A DANAKIL 

SETTLEMENT — PROCEED THROUGH THE VALE OF 

KURRI, SAGGADERE, AND ARRIVE AT LITTLE MARHA 

— DEPARTURE FROM LITTLE MARHA, PASSING GA- 

LAMO, ADAITA, AND ENCAMP IN THE VALE OF RAMU- 

DELl DEPARTURE FROM RAMUDELI — APPREHEN- 

SION OF ROBBERS — DEPARTURE FROM BARUDEGA — 

ALARMED BY HYENAS — DEPARTURE FROM GAIEL, 

AND ENCAMP AT ALIBEKELE — CHARACTER OF THE 



ISSA SOMALS DEPARTURE FROM ALIBEKELE, AND 



ARRIVE AT MULLU, ------ IG 







CHAPTER III. 



TAKE LEAVE OF MAHOMED ALI — DEPARTURE FROM 

MULLU — NOTICE OF A SKIRMISH BETWEEN THE DE- 



BENIK We'eMAS AND THE MUDAITUS ARRIVE AT 



METTA LEAVE METTA, AND ENCAMP AT HAMUISSA 



ARRIVE AT LITTLE MULLU ELEPHANT HUNTING 



— DEPARTURE FROM LITTLE MULLU, AND ENCAMP 

AT BERDUDA NOTICE OF THE DANKALI TRIBES IN- 

HABITING THESE REGIONS — LEAVE BERDUDA, AND 

CROSS THE PLAIN HALAKDIGGI — ABUNDANCE OF 

GAME — ARRIVE AT THE RIVER HAWASH — NOTICES 



OF IT VISIT TO A LAKE WEST OF THE HAWASH — 



DEPARTURE FROM MELKUKUYU, AND ARRIVE AT THE 

VILLAGE OF FARRI — DEPARTURE FROM FARRI, AND 

ARRIVE AT ALUI AMBA — INTERVIEW WITH THE 



GOVERNOR DEPARTURE FROM METATIT — ARRIVAL 



AT ISLAM AMBA VISIT TO THE KING, AND KIND 



RECEPTION BY HIM — ARRIVAL AT ANGOLLALA IN- 

TERVIEWS WITH THE KING — HIS DESIRE FOR ME-; 







CONTENTS. XXI 



DICINE — BECOME ACQUAINTED WITH MARETSH, AN 

IN'FLUEXTIAL GOVERNOR OF THE ABEDTSHOO 



GALLAS INSTANCES OF THE KING's SELFISHNESS — 



DEPARTURE OF THE KING FOR ANGOLLALA CON- 

VERSATION WITH A PRIEST OF BULGA ON FASTING 



ABYSSINIAN CHRONOLOGY VILLAGES AROUND AN- 

GOLLALA EXCURSION TO THE RIVER TSHATSHA 



DEPARTURE FROM ANGOLLALA, AND ARRIVAL AT 

ANKOBAR. - 43 







PART II. 







RESIDENCE AT ANKOBAR. 







CB AFTER I. 



ARRIVAL OF THE KING AT ANKOBAR INTERVIEW WITH 



HIM PARTICULARS OF THE GALLA TRIBES TO THE 



NORTH OF SHOA — GUEBRA GEORGIS EXPRESSES A 

WISH FOR INSTRUCTION — VISIT TO THE CHURCH 

OF ST. GEORGE — PARTICULARS OF THE KINO OF 



SHOA AND HIS FAMILY ABYSSINIAN FASTS — ACCOUNT 



OF THE SECT OF THE TABIBAN — MR. KRAPF COM- 

MENCES A VOCABULARY OF THE GALLA LANGUAGE 



ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF ANKOBAR OPINIONS 



RESPECTING THE WORSHIP OF THE VIRGIN MARY 



CONVERSATION WITH PRIESTS OF DEBRA LIBANOS 

RESPECTING THE THREE BIRTHS OF CHRIST — SHOAN 

MEASURES AND RATES OF BARTER — LEAP-YEAR 

OF THE ABYSSINIANS — PARTICULARS RESPECTING 

THE GURAGUE COUNTRY — LIST OF yETHIOPIC BOOKS 

— FEAST OF TECLA HAIMANOT — VISIT TO THE CHURCH 







XXU CONTENTS. 



OF ST. MICHAEL — ABYSSINIANS' NEW YEAK — GALLA 

TRIBES IN THE SOUTH OF GURAOUE CONVERSA- 

TION WITH A PRIEST ON CHRONOLOGY STRANGE 



STORY VISIT TO DEBRA BERHAN — INTERVIEW 



WITH THE KING VISIT TO TEGULET, THE ANCIENT 



CAPITAL OF SHOA -------82 







CHAPTER II. 



RETURN TO ANKOBAR — ACCOUNT OF A SUPERSTITIOUS 

CEREMONY — REMARKS — SLAVES IN THE SERVICE 

OF THE KING — CONVERSATIONS ON VARIOUS SUB- 

JECTS — NOTICES OF THE GOVERNMENT, DISCIPLINE, 

AND USAGES, OF THE ABYSSINIAN CHURCH — VISIT 



TO THE KING AT ANGOLLALA DISCUSSION WITH 



DEBTERA SANDJAR ON DOCTRINAL POINTS — MR. 

ISENBERG's INTERVIEW WITH THE KING PREVIOUS 

TO HIS DEPARTURE FROM SHOA — MR. KRAPF RE- 

TURNS TO ANKOBAR VISIT TO ALACA WOLDA HANNA 



— CONVERSATION WITH PRIEST TSEDDOO ON BAP- 

TISM VISIT TO THE ALACA OF AFERBEINI — CUS- 

TOMS OF THE GALLAS— ABYSSINIAN MODE OF IN- 

STRUCTING YOUTHS — CEREMONY AT BAPTISM — NO- 

TICES OF VARIOUS TRIBES ----- 1 ] -i 







CHAPTER III. 



DEPARTURE OF MR. ISENBERG FROM ANKOBAR— NOTICES 



RESPECTING SOME ANCIENT SAINTS REVERENCE FOR 



THE SABBATH BY THE GALLAS DISCUSSION WITH 



A DEBTERA ON ORIGINAL SIN — CONVERSATIONS ON 



VARIOUS SUBJECTS ABYSSINIAN REMEDY FOR THE 



SMALL-POX SCRIPTURE INTERPRETATION — DISCUS- 

SION ON THE THREE BIRTHS OF CHRIST ATTACKED 



BY FEVER — THE FAST OF TSOMA LEDAT — COPIES OF 

THE AMHARIC SCRIPTURES DISTRIBUTED — NOTICES 







CONTENTS. XXUl 



OF THE GALLAS DWELLING IN THE EAST OF GURAGUE 



VISITED BY PRIESTS FROM GURAGUE — BAPTISMAL 



CEREMONY -------- 160 







CHAPTER IV. 



MR. KRAPF ACCOMPANIES THE KING ON AN EXPEDITION 

AGAINST THE 6ALLA TRIBES — THE KING's ARMY — 

CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST ON FASTING AND 

OTHER SUBJECTS — RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES OF THE 



GALLAS VISIT TO A VILLAGE A GALLA GRAVE 



NOTICES OF VARIOUS GALLA TRIBES (THROUGHOUT 

THE chapter) — CONVERSATION WITH PEOPLE FROM 

THE NORTH OF SIIOA, AND OTHER PLACES INTER- 

VIEW WITH TSHARA, SON OF THE QUEEN OF MULO- 



FALADA FAVOURABLE RECEPTION — MAJESTIC 



MOUNTAINS OF MAITSHA — SOURCES OF THE HAWASH 

— RETURN TO ANGOLLALA — HOT WELLS IN THE 

TERRITORY OF FINIFINI — ARRIVE AT ANGOLLALA — 

RECEPTION OF THE KING — REMARKS ON THE ADVAN- 

TAGES GAINED BY THE EXPEDITION - - . 187 







CHAPTER V. 



CONVERSATION WITH DEBTERAS — PREPARATIONS FOR 

THE FORTY DAYS FAST OF THE ABYSSINIANS — 

SUPERSTITIOUS OPINION — ABYSSINIAN LITERATURE 

VISITED BY A PRIEST OF BULGA — MODE OF EX- 

PLAINING SCRIPTURE — DEMAND FOR ^ETHIOPIC 

SCRIPTURES — SUPPOSED ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS — 

NOTICES OF A GALLA TRIBE CALLED WATO — VISIT 

TO THE MONASTERY OF THE TABIBAN — MR. KRAPF 



ACCOMPANIES THE KING TO DEBRA LIBANOS 



ARRIVE AT SENA MARKOS, A HOLY PLACE OF THE 

ABYSSINIANS — ARRIVE AT DEBRA LIBANOS — VISIT 

TO THE WELL OF TECLA HAIMANOT — MIRACULOUS 







xxiv CONTENTS. 



POWERS ATTRIBUTED TO THE WATER — SUPERSTI- 

TIOUS PRACTICE RETURN TO ANKOBAR — NOTICES 



OF CAMBAT — LETTER FROM THE KING TO THE 

GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY — FURTHER NOTICES OF THE 

CUSTOMS OF THE GALLAS — NOTICES OF WOLAMO, 

CAFFA, AND SENTSHERO. . _ - - - 







226 







PART III. 



JOURNEY FROM ANKOBAR TO MASSOWAH. 

CHAPTER I. 



MOTIVES FOR UNDERTAKING THE JOURNEY — DEPAR- 

TURE FROM ANKOBAR GOOD FEELING MANIFESTED 



BY THE PEOPLE TOWARD MR. KRAPF ARRIVE AT 



ANGOLLALA INTERVIEW WITH THE KING DISTRI- 

BUTION OF SCRIPTURES — FAREWELL VISIT TO THE 

KING — LEAVE ANGOLLALA, AND ARRIVE AT DEBRA 

BERHAN — TRADITIONS RESPECTING IT POPULA- 

TION — ARRIVE AT BOLLO WORKIE CELEBRATED 



MARKET HELD HERE — ARTICLES OF TRADE ORIGIN 



OF THE NAME BOLLO WORKIE — SUPERSTITIOUS 



OPINIONS OF THE ABYSSINIANS ARRIVE AT THE 



VILLAGE OF LOGHEITA WELL RECEIVED BY THE 



GOVERNOR — MONASTERY OF SAINT ABBO — LEAVE 

LOGHEITA — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST — EN- 

QUIRIES RESPECTING THE ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS 

— GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISION OF THE DIFFERENT 



PROVINCES OF SHOA ARRIVE AT ZALLA DENGAI 



— HOSPITABLE RECEPTION BY ZENAMA WORK, THE 







CONTENTS. XXV 



MOTHER OF THE KING OF SHOA — ORIGIN OF THE 



NAME ZALLA DENGAI DEPARTURE FROM ZALLA 



DENGAI CROSS THE RIVER MOFER — ENTER THE 



PROVINCE OF MANS NOTICES OF ITS FORMER 



RULERS — CHARACTER OF THE MANSIANS SOIL AND 



PRODUCTIONS OF MANS LEAVE WOKAN, AND ENTER 



THE DISTRICT OF LALO TRADITION RESPECTING 



THE LAKE ALOBAR — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF 

AMAD-WASHA DISTRIBUTION OF AMHARIC SCRIP- 

TURES LEAVE AMAD-WASHA — SUPERSTITION OF 



THE PEOPLE ARRIVE AT DAIR, THE FRONTIER OF 



SHOA — VISIT THE GOVERNOR. - - . . £61 







CHAPTER IT. 



DEPARTURE FROM DAIR — VILLAGE OF GOLTA — ENTER 

THE COUNTRY OF THE WOLLO GALLAS — THEIR CHA- 

RACTER — MOUNTAINS OF THE WOLLO COUNTRY 



ARRIVE AT GATIRA INTERVIEW WITH ADARA 



BILLE FRIENDLY RECEPTION LEAVE GATIRA NO- 

TICES OF BERROO LOOBO, THE CHIEF OF WORRA 



KALLO ARRIVE AT NEGASSI DATCH VISIT THE 



GOVERNOR, SIDI MUSIE HIS SUSPICIOUS BEHA- 

VIOUR LEAVE NEGASSI DATCH, AND ENTER THE 



TERRITORY OF CHARSO PERILOUS SITUATION 



ARRIVE AT TANTA, THE CAPITAL OF WORRA HIMANO 

— KINDLY RECEIVED BY THE CHIEF, IMAN LIBAN 

— POPULATION OF TANTA — EXTENT OF THE TERRI- 

TORY OF IMAN LIBAN — DEPARTURE FROM TANTA, 

AND ARRIVE AT THE RIVER BASHILO — BERROO 

ALIGAS, GOVERNOR OF WADELA, ATTACKS THE 



TERRITORY OF IMAN LIBAN MR. KRAPF IN CON- 



SEliUENCE RELINQUISHES HIS INTENTION OF PRO- 

CEEDING TO GONDAR, AND RETREATS TOWARD GA- 

TIRA — REASONS FOR PREFERRING THE TADJURRA 

ROAD TO THAT OF MASSOWAH — MARKET OF TOTOLA 

— RETURN TO GATIRA — INTERVIEW WITH ADARA 







XXVI CONTENTS. 



BILLE — HIS HYPOCRITICAL PROFESSIONS OF 



FRIENDSHIP HIS TREACHEROUS AND COWARDLY 



TREATMENT OF MR. KRAPF, WHOM HE ROBS AND 

IMPRISONS — PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE OF MR. 

KRAPF. -----__- 319 



CHAPTER III. 



ARRIVE AT THE LAKE HAIK — DESCRIPTION OF THE 



LAKE VISIT TO A CONVENT ON AN ISLAND IN THE 



LAKE NOTICES OF THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE 



ISLAND — POPULATION ACCOUNT OF THE MONKS, 



&C. DEPARTURE FROM LAKE HAIK — ARRIVE AT 



THE VILLAGE OF BORA HIGH MOUNTAINS IN THE 



VICINITY OF BORA — ORIGIN OF THE NAME TEHOO- 

LADERE — LEAVE BORA, AND CROSS THE RIVER 



MILLE THE MOUNTAIN AMBASSEL — ARRIVE AT 



THE DISTRICT OF WORRA KALLO, AND HALT AT 

THE VILLAGE OF LEEBSO — KIND RECEPTION — DE- 

PARTURE FROM LEEBSO — CROSS THE RIVER 



ERGEBBO FEROCIOUS CHARACTER OF THE RAIA 



GALLAS — COFFEE TREE ON THE BANKS OF THE 

RIVER ERGEBBO — CHARACTER OF THE YECHOO 



PEOPLE REMARKS ON ABYSSINIAN HOSPITALITY 



SINGULAR CUSTOM OF THE YECHOO WOMEN — IM- 

MENSE PLAINS IN THE YECHOO COUNTRY — CROSS 



THE RIVER MERSA MANNER OF PLANTING PEPPER 



ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF MERSA HOSPITA- 

BLE RECEPTION CONVERSATION WITH MAHOME- 



DANS — DEPARTURE FROM MERSA — SUPERSTITIOUS 

CUSTOMS — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF SHELTE — 

DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING ACCOMMODATION — 

MARKET OF WOLDAIA VILLAGE OF GOODDO AP- 

PEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY — ARRIVE AT THE 



VILLAGE OF SHAL CONVERSATION WITH A WOMAN 



LEAVE SHAL AFTER SOME DELAY REACH THE 



PROVINCE OF ANGOT CLIMATE OF ANGOT ARRIVE 



AT THE VILLAGE OF SARAGADEL, LEAVE SARAGA- 



DEL, AND REACH THE VILLAGE OF DELDEI. - - 403 







CONTENTS. xxvii 







CHAPTER IV. 



DEPARTURE FROM DELDEI — CONA'ENT OF SHAMADO MA- 



RIAM DESTITUTE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY 



— ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF ENALKA — CONVER- 

SATION WITH A PRIEST — KIND RECEPTION BY THE 

GOVERNOR OF ENALKA — LANGUAGE AND CHARAC- 

TER OF THE AGAUS DEPARTURE FROM ENALKA 



NOTICES OF LAKE ASHANGHE — ARRIVE AT THE 



VILLAGE OF LAT APPREHENSION OF AN ATTACK 



FROM THE TROOPS OF WOLDA MEDHEN — INTERVIEW 

WITH HIM UNEXPECTED KIND RECEPTION AR- 

RIVE AT THE DISTRICT OF BORA CONVERSATION 



WITH THE- GOVERNOR OF A VILLAGE — PASS THE 



RIVER SHEMSHEHO— ABUNDANCE OF FISH ARRIVE 



ON THE FRONTIER OF THE WAG COUNTRY — KIND- 

NESS OF THE GOVERNOR — ARRIVE AT THE RIVER 

TZANA RECEIVE UNFAVOURABLE NEWS RESPECT- 

ING THE STATE OF THINGS IN TIGRE AFTER CON- 

SIDERABLE DIFFICULTY, ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE 

OF MAWOINI — KINDLY RECEIVED BY A MONK — 



ARRIVE AT ANTALO — CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE 



CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST ON RELIGIOUS SUB- 

JECTS — NOTICES RESPECTING THE TOWN OF ANTALO 



DEPARTURE FROM ANTALO IMMENSE FLOCK OF 



BABOONS SITUATION OF CHELICAT — ARRIVE AT 



ADIGRATE VISIT THE CHURCH OF ST. CHIRKOS 



SITUATION OF ADIGRAT VILLAGE OF MAMBEROT 



INHOSPITALITY OF THE TIGRIANS LEAVE MAMBE- 

ROT, AND ARRIVE AT BEHAT CHARACTER OF THE 



PEOPLE OF SENAFE VILLAGE OF SHEMASANU — 



VISIT THE ALACA OF THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE 



CONVERSATION WITH HIM ON FASTING LEAVE 



MESHAIKH DISPUTE WITH THE GOVERNOR OF SE- 

NAFE — ARRIVE AT TEKUNDA WELL RECEIVED BY 



THE GOVERNOR DEPARTURE FROM TEKUNDA, AND 



ARRIVE AT ARKEEKO ARRIVAL AT MASSOWAII - 4G2 









<^ 







# 







t •• • • " '* 







A GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR 







ON 







EASTERN AND CENTRAL AFRICA. 







Within the last few years, the geographical features of 

Africa have begun to assume something like a natural and 

a rational shape. Every day brings us some important 

geographical information regarding interesting portions of 

that vast Continent. Some of this is entirely new, and 

other portions of it confirmatory of the accounts col- 

lected and transmitted to us by the ancients, but 

which modern wisdom would neither allow to be possible 

nor correct. The attention of the world is now, how- 

ever, so closely directed to that fine, but hitherto much 

neglected quarter of the Globe, that its interior and least 

known parts, have already been widely explored, and will, it 

is confidently predicted, in a few years more, be explored 

to their deepest recesses, and correctly delineated. 



b 







[2] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



Among those to whooi African Geography and the 

friends of Africa are at this moment deeply indebted, 

— Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf, the worthy Missionaries 

sent oat some years ago by the Church Missionary Society, 

to preach the Gospel in the Eastern and interior parts of 

Africa, — claim the first place. The travels and the labours 

of these excellent men, have been the first to bring before 

the British Public correct information regarding that in- 

teresting, and once celebrated portion of Africa, lying to 

the south of the Straits of Babelmandeb, to the south- 

east and south of Abyssinia, and the upper and early 

course of the Bahr-el-azreek, or the Blue Nile. The 

Journals of these men form the principal object and con- 

tents of the present publication, and are so interest- 

ing, from laying before us, as they do, the highlands 

which give birth to, and which separate the waters of 

some of the largest and most important Rivers in Africa, 

that the v,rriter of this considered it but justice to these 

individuals, and of importance to a right understanding 

of the subject, to arrange and delineate in a map their 

travels and all the other important information which 

he has lately collected and obtained regarding the Eastern 

and Central portions of Africa, more immediately con- 

nected with the journeys and information given by the 

Missionaries alluded to. 



With great labour, and with much care, this has accor- 

dingly been done. The present memoir narrates, in a form 

as condensed as possible, the general heads of the subject, 

together with the authorities from which the information 

has been drawn, and the reader will be able to trace the 

descriptions and journeys on the accompanying maps. 

From these he will perceive the importance of the infor- 







GEOGEAPHICAL MEMOIR. [3] 



mation which has been obtained and collected, and the 

remarkable errors which have hitherto prevailed in the 

Geography of this portion of Africa, arising in many in- 

stances, not so much from the want of information, as from 

the carelessness with which that has been examined, and as 

if it were from a determination to resist the truth. 



The information which our Countryman Bruce collected 

and received, regarding the portion of Africa more espe- 

cially under consideration, was not only extensive, but ac- 

curate and important. If he had been fortunate enough 

to have had an Arrowsmith or a Wyld at his elbow, to de- 

lineate on a map the information which he had collected, 

the great features of all the most important portions of the 

Geography of Afi-ica to the North of the Equator, would 

have been placed before the eyes of Europe sixty years ago. 

His account of Abyssinia, and several places adjacent to 

it, is the best that has yet come in the writer's way. As 

we proceed, this fact will be clearly established. The 

general correctness of the features of this portion of Africa 

as drawn by Ptolemv, will also be shewn and ascertained. 

The travellers and authorities from which the writer has 

drawn information will be carefully and faithfully pointed 

out. But he would be acting unjustly if he did not take this 

opportunity of returning his cordial thanks to M. Jo- 

mard, of Paris, well known for his great attention to 

every part of African Geography, for the great kindness 

shewn by that gentleman in transmitting him, by the 

earliest possible opportunity, the official abstract of the 

voyage of discovery directed by the present Viceroy of 

Egypt, about three years ago, to explore the Bahr-el-abiad, 

or White River. This has been done in a remarkable 

manner, and is one of the most interesting and im- 

b2 







[4] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR, 



portant voyages of discovery Avhich has been made in 

modern times. 



One of the greatest difficulties encountered in unravelHng 

African Geography is the diversity of names that are given 

to the same Country, Town, Mountain, or River, according 

as these may have been obtained or collected by different 

travellers from different natives ; and these again differing 

according as they are obtained from Negro or Arab Tribes. 

The different mode of writing and pronouncing the same 

name even among Europeans is often extremely puzzling. 

This diversity of names for the same thing is so great and so 

frequent, that it requires no ordinary patience and stretch of 

memory to detect them and to hold the particular place 

steadily in view. 



Another great difficulty proceeds from the narrator's 

reversing the bearings of one place from another : putting 

West for East, and North for South, and so on. Thus 

he will say, Wara is north-east from Dar Ruma ; where- 

as it is Dar Ruma that is north-east from Wara. The 

narrator, who had been at both, placing himself while giv- 

ing information at Dar Ruma, instead of remembering that 

he was looking from Wara to Dar Ruma. This kind of 

mistake is very frequent among Negro and Arab travel- 

lers and narrators. Thus, where there is no check from 

an opposite direction or a point more beyond, it is some- 

times impossible to find out the truth. 



In like manner great errors are frequently committed 

with regard to the courses of rivers, the Arabs especially 

putting the geographical bearing of the bed of the river for 

the course of the current of the stream. Thus they say of 

the Nile it goes from Egypt to Abyssinia ; whereas the river 

comes, as Europeans express it, from Abyssinia to Egypt. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [5] 



Such mistakes with regard to hearings, as those ahove 

adverted to, are very frequently committed in European 

Authors. Thus in Bruce's works, his editor has made the 

bearings of places bounding each other the reverse of what 

they really are. For instance, Tigre is stated to be bound- 

ed on the north-east by Begemder ; whereas it is Begemder 

that is bounded on the north-east by Tigre. A similar error 

has been committed with most of the Abyssinian provinces, 

and these errors have been copied into almost every work 

that I have seen : Murray's Africa, the Encyclopcedia Bri- 

tannica, &c. which have copied from Bruce. These errors 

can, however, be detected with a little care; but not so those 

where south-east is put for south-west, as is sometimes the 

case. These require invincible patience and research to 

miravel. In Mr. Krapf's first journey, he states, that from 

Dobra Berhan to Tegulet he went east ; whereas it should 

have been west ; and instead of Lake Zawash emptying 

itself to the south as he then indicated, we now find that 

it empties itself into the Hawash, and in an opposite direc- 

tion. Pages might be filled in pointing out similar errors 

committed by travellers. 



In estimating the distance and positions of places from 

days' journey, the greatest care is necessary to ascertain 

whether such journeys are performed by single travellers, 

travelling expeditiously for only two or three days, and for 

pleasure ; or by a special messenger ; or by the steady reg- 

ular journey of the mercantile Caravan. The distance gone 

over by each, if exceeding two or three days, scarcely ever 

varies, especially of the latter ; and are only lessened or ex- 

tended according to the nature of the country, moun- 

tainous, rocky, woody, clear or level, that they may have 

to traverse. In a journey of two or three days there may 







[6] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



be some little discrepancy as to the daily distance made 

good, especially if there is no time given to check it ; but 

when the journey comes to extend to several days, or for 

a considerable period of time, it is astonishing with what 

accuracy the positions of places can be ascertained and 

determined by this mode of measurement. I have found 

it not to vary more than 15 miles in 1000, and this when 

checked by journeys of an equal length to a given place, 

made from the opposite or from a different direction. 

Great care has been taken in regard to this matter in con- 

structing the accompanying maps ; and the results, after 

being again and again checked, have come out very con- 

vincing and very satisfactory. 



With these preliminary remarks we proceed to consider 

the Journals of the travellers alluded to, and the positions 

and general features of the countries and districts through 

which they went. 



The journey of Mr. Krapf and Mr. Isenberg to Ankobar 

comes first in order. They landed at Zeilah on the 1st. of 

April 1839. This is a decayed town, containing only eight 

stone houses and about one hundred straw huts, together 

occupied by about 800 inhabitants, mean and poor. Their 

food consists of maize, dates, milk, and rice, and occasion- 

ally flesh. The harbour is very bad, having many sand 

banks, and several small islands near it toward the north. 

The town is surrounded with walls, and has, on the land 

side, seven pieces of ordnance, pointed to the country of 

the Somaulis, with which people dwelling to the south-east 

and south, the town has a considerable intercourse ; but 

feuds and jealousies very frequently prevail between them. 

Zeilah has a good deal of intercourse with the adjoining and 

interior countries, especially with Hurrur, from which place 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [7] 



a considerable quantity of fine coffee is brought yearly and 

shipped to Mocha, from which latter place it subsequently 

finds its way to the markets of Europe and America. 

Zeilah was formerly a place of considerable importance 

and the emporium for the Indian trade with those parts of 

Africa adjoining, especially when first known to, and occu- 

pied bv the Turks, at the commencement of the fifteenth 

century. In the days of Batouta, say 1332, it was, 

subsequently to the decay of Aussa, the chief town of 

the kingdom of Adel, and his description of its site 

was very accurate, and exactly as Mr. Stewart, sent by 

Mr. Salt to enter Africa from this point, found it to be, and 

from whose survey the accompanying map regarding it 

has been drawn up.* The Longitude and Latitude, 

especially the former, differs considerably in Stew- 

art's Survey, he placing it in Ho 18' North and 43° 3' 

East. I have adhered to the position given to it by 

Captain Harris, considering that as having been taken 

by a late survey made by the East India Company. 

When Batouta visited the place, say in 1333, it was in- 

habited by the Rafiza sect, and belonged to the Berbers, 

a people from the North of Africa and of the Shafia sect, 

and their country or the country of Zielah was then 

stated to reach in extent two months' journey by land to 

Makdashu. Zeilah is fourteen Caravan stages north-east 

from Hurrur, and about five orsix days' journey eastof Aussa. 

From Zeilah the travellers embarked for Tajoura, a 

small town, the capital of a state of that name, situated 

to the south-west of Ras Bir, at the entrance of a deep 

bay extending to the south-west. The existence of this 

bay, or rather the bays which run from Tajoura in the 

* Salt, p: 475. 







[8] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



direction mentioned, and the true position of this small 

hut important town, were all unknown till they were dis- 

closed by the Missionaries mentioned. The town is still 

smaller and poorer than Zielah, containing only about 

300 inhabitants ; but it is the nearest point from which to 

penetrate into the most interesting portions of Abyssinia, 

and has good anchorage near it, a thing scarcely found 

on any portion of the East coast of Africa, especially 

without the Straits of Babelmandeb until the Equinoctial 

line is passed. The inhabitants of Berbera send to Ta- 

joura for water, which is found of excellent quality in 

wells and reservoirs in its vicinity. Tajoura, according 

to Captain Harris, stands in 11° 46' 35" North Latitude, 

and in 43° 00' 20" East Longitude, and is built upon 

a plain at the foot of the mountains, the soil being compo- 

sed of particles washed down from the hills during the 

rains. Like all that portion of Africa, it is subject to 

great heat and drought. To the north and north-west 

the interior is very mountainous, the hills and ridges 

rising to a very considerable elevation. The most impor- 

tant is Mount Debenit, about 35 miles north-west of 

Tajoura. This mountain is very elevated, and accor- 

ding to M. Rochet, who visited it, is volcanic and com- 

posed of primitive rock. There is an extinct crater on 

its summit. Foxes and Gazelles are numerous, both great 

and small ; and there is also found a tree from which is 

extracted a very deadly poison, which the inhabitants use 

on their arrows. The road from Tajoura to Mount De- 

benit is exceedingly rugged and steep, and covered with 

ancient volcanoes, quartz, basalt, &c. 



From Tajoura, Messrs. Krapf and Isenberg proceeded 

in about a south-W'Cst by west direction to Ankobar, the 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [0] 



present capital of Shoa, a state now independent of the 

empire of Abyssinia. The journey was undertaken in the 

height of the dry season, and the route is distinctly marked 

on the map. An Embassy from the East India Company 

to the King of Shoa, under Captain Harris, and sent in con- 

sequence of the information which the Missionaries had 

given, travelled over nearly the same ground in 1841, 

and also a French traveller M. Rochet, a few months 

after Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf. The journeys of Har- 

ris and Rochet were accomplished in the wet season, and 

consequently the country wore a different aspect. Nu- 

merous and considerable rivers, which were dry when the 

Missionaries passed, traversed the country, and flowed to 

the Hawash or the Lakes. Among these is one named 

by M. Rochet the Killalou, which runs from south to 

north-east a distance of forty miles, and falls into the 

Natron Lake. In the rainy season it is sixty feet broad, 

and from five to six feet deep. At Goubade there is ano- 

ther, which runs from east-north-east to north-north-west. 

The current is rapid, and the breadth 100 metres (250 

feet) and depth forty centimetres. There are numerous 

hot springs in the neighbourhood of Omargalouf, about 

three leagues east of Lake Aussa, and also in the neigh- 

bourhood of Killalou. Lake Aussa is of considerable extent, 

it overflows during the rainy season, and when it recedes 

leaves a fine deposit, like that which is left by the Egyptian 

Nile. During the overflow, the superabundant waters run 

ofli^ into the Natron Lake, about nine miles distant north- 

east. Mr. Isenberg was told that the waters of Aussa 

were bitter; but M. Rochet says they are sweet. Aussa, 

some centuries ago, was the capital of the kingdom of 

Adel, and a place of great importance ; but it is now much 

b .5 







[10] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



decayed. It lies due west from Karanta, and is situated 

according to Bruce, on a bank of the river Hawash.* 

It is the capital of the tribe of Dankali called Mudaites, 

the most powerful at this time in this portion of Africa. 

Several Ulemas and other learned Mahomedans yet re- 

side in the place. It contains from 1400 to 1600 houses, 

and from 5000 to 6000 inhabitants. The soil is very fer- 

tile, and supplies Dourah for the consumption of all the 

adjoining parts of Adel. It was at this place, then called 

Auxa, not at Zeilah, where the two Portuguese Missionaries, 

who formed part of the Mission of Jerome Lobo, and who 

attempted to penetrate into Abyssinia, by landing at Zeilah, 

were murdered. 



The Sultan of Tajoura, though of small power, is repre- 

sented to be a brave man, with a very large family. At 

some distance from this place, in the interior, Mr. Isenberg 

was told, that coals, resembling those imported into Aden, 

were found. AH the country from Tajoura to Ankobar is 

volcanic, everywhere exhibiting volcanic ridges, ancient 

volcanoes, and places covered with volcanic remains. This 

is especially the case to the westward and northward of 

r^Iulloo. Several of these plains are very fertile, and on 

the hills and ridges the air is cool and pleasant, the coun- 

try rising gradually from the sea. The lake of Assal, or 

the Salt Lake, is of considerable extent ; and the salt taken 

from it forms a considerable branch of commerce with the 

countries in the interior, to the south, to the west, and to 

the north. It is stated to be 570 feet below the level of 

the sea, and is a few miles distant from the second Bay of 

Tajoura, called " Ghoobut Ghrah," itself clearly of volcanic 

origin. Very high ranges of hills bound the horizon to 

* Vol. iii. p. 347. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [11] 



the south and south-east of the route laid down. The 

territory of the Chief of Tajoura begins at Murza Dooan, 

and extends south to the Salt Lake. Its extent westward 

is undefined, but it is probably not great. 



When Isenberg and Krapf crossed the Hawash on 

the 29th May, near the end of the dry season, they 

found the stream about sixty feet broad, and from two to 

four feet deep, with banks from fifteen to twenty feet 

high. When the Embassy of Captain Harris crossed it 

in the wet season, and at the same point, they found the 

stream from forty to fifty yards broad, and from ten to 

twelve feet deep, the banks covered with fine trees, and the 

scenery very beautiful. Their encampment near the river 

was 2223 feet above the level of the sea. M. Rochet, 

when he crossed the stream, found it from fifty to fifty-five 

metres broad, and twelve and a half to fourteen deep, its 

course from the point where the road crosses it, being 

north, and afterward north-east to Lake Aussa, which 

lake M. Rochet states is eighty metres, (200 feet) deep. 

The banks of the river are covered with fine verdure and 

fine trees. There are abundance of hippopotami in the 

stream ; and leopards, zebras, tigers, lions, and antelopes 

are numerous on its banks, which above Lake Aussa are 

inhabited by the powerful tribe Mudaite or Hassendera 

already mentioned. In fact, this great tribe stretch north- 

ward as far as the parallel of Tajoura. 



Numerous other tribes of Dankali spread over this por- 

tion of Africa till they come in contact with the Somauli 

to the south and south-east of Zeilah, and the Galla 

toward Hurrur, the kingdom of Shoa to the south-west 

and west, and again the Galla on the west, north-west, and 

north. The names of the principal of these are mentioned 







[12] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR, 



by Mr. Iseuberg, and deserve scarcely any other notice. 

Among the tribes mentioned by Captain Harris, we find 

the Raheita inhabiting the country close to the deep 

bays of Tajoura. This tribe, we learn from Bruce,* 

formed an important portion of the kingdom of Adel, 

and remained attached to it when stripped of nearly all the 

rest of its dominions. In the days of its splendour, this 

tribe extended itself to the neighbourhood of Assab, where 

we yet find the river of Raheita, from which they probably 

had their name. From the H awash to Ankobar the 

country is very beautiful, finely diversified, and watered by 

numerous streams, tributaries to the Hawash. This district 

forms part of the kingdom of Shoa, and is comprehended 

in, or rather forms the district or province of Lower 

Efat. Ankobar is finely situated on the eastern extremity 

of Mount Chakka, and is 8198 feet above the level of the 

sea, and in latitude nine degrees thirty-four minutes thir- 

ty-three seconds north, and longitude thirty-nine degrees 

thirty-five minutes east, according to the most recent ac- 

counts, and which position is a few miles difl'erent from 

the protraction of Mr. Isenberg's first journey. Mr. Isen- 

berg and his colleague v;ere enraptured with the climate of 

Ankobar. On the 4th of June they found the barley 

ready for the harvest, and the thermometer not more than 

40° during the night. "The rich vegetation, the situation 

in a cool, vernal, or almost autumnal atmosiihere," says 

Mr. Isenberg, " almost put us in an ecstasy." — " they 

breathed Alpine air, and drank Alpine water." AngoUalla 

is 200 feet higher than Ankobar, and the mountains to 

the south of that place about the sources of the Beresa and 

the Tshalsha rise to a still greater height. 

* Vol. iii. p: 347. 







GEOGRAPHICAL IIEMOIR. [13] 



Between Kudaite and the mountains of the Alia Galla 

there is a large plain or valley which, it is said, extends 

from the Hawash eastward to Berber a. A ridge of hills 

rising to a considerable height stretches along the east 

bank of the Hawash. In crossing the plain of little Mul- 

loo, the grass was found so high as to rise above the head 

of a man on horseback. To the south-west of this, at 

some distance, M. Rochet states that there is a volcano in a 

state of activity. About Alleule, in the territory of the tribe 

Dolone, there are fine palm trees, from which the natives 

extract a juice which they manufacture into a spirituous 

liquor which resembles champagne. Betwixt the moun- 

tains of Hassendera and the Mudaites, on the north, and 

the Alia Gallas on the south, there is a large plain, where 

coffee, citron, and sugar-canes are cultivated ; and where 

both zebras and elephants are found in considerable numbers. 

The Dannakil population of this portion of Africa are es- 

timated at 70,000 souls. Betwixt the Hawash and Fari 

are several lakes, one of them, the most westerly, of con- 

siderable magnitude, is called La Adu, or " the far distant 

water." Westward of Lake Aussa and the lower Hawash, 

the territory of a Chief named Imam Faris, extends from 

east to west four days' journey, till it touches upon the 

Woolla Galla. 



The Mudaites are the most warlike of all the Dannakil 

tribes. They are not very intelligent, but have good con- 

stitutions, and their women are good looking. The inhab- 

itants of Adel speak a language different from the Arabic, 

the yEthiopic, the Amharic, or the Galla. Perhaps the 

ancient Berber Language, stated to be an original language, 

or of great antiquity. They say that their ancestors came 







[14] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



originally from Arabia and Asia. Of the Dannakils, Mr. 

Isenberg says : — 



" A chief occupation of the Dannakils, particularly the 

women, especially when they travel, is the plaiting of mats 

and baskets, for salt and corn, from the branches of the 

palm-tree. The women are the most industrious. Thev 

dress very slovenly, and frequently wear nothing but a 

piece of cloth, of a grey, blue, or variegated colours, tied 

round their hips, and reaching down to the knees, sometimes 

bound round with a fancifully-wrought leathern belt. Not- 

withstanding, they are vain, and fond of wearing bracelets 

and foot ornaments, ear and nose -rings, coral strings on 

their necks, &c." 



These journeys made from Tajourahave in the first place 

rectified the geography regarding the course of the Hawash; 

and before proceeding farther, it may be advisable to rec- 

tify the geography of this portion of Africa, in which such 

great and unnecessary errors have been committed and so 

long continued. This the journeys under consideration, 

and an attentive perusal of the information which Bruce 

received about them, enables us very clearly to do. The 

constructor of Bruce's map, and his own narrative in seve- 

ral places, has made perfect havoc among them. An atten- 

tive perusal of his portions of Abyssinian History, affords 

the safest and a tolerably clear guide to determine the 

positions of these countries and provinces with a sufficient 

degree of accuracy. The advance and retreat of the con- 

tending armies traces the provinces with great clearness ; 

and had the narratives regarding these been more closely at- 

tended to, or attended to at all, most of the errors which have 

crept into the geography of this portion of Afi-ica, would 

never have been committed, or else long ago cleared up. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [^5] 



Commencing with the kingdom of Dankali will tend to 

make the delineation more satisfactory and clear. Dan- 

kali is that portion of the country which stretches from 

the Red Sea on to the north-east ridge of the chain of 

mountains that divides the waters which flow westward 

through Abyssinia, from those small streams which descend 

from the east side of these mountains to the Red Sea. On 

the east, and at Assab, it is bounded by part of the king- 

dom of Adel and the Myrrh country, and on the south by a 

desert part of the province of Do waro.* It is in general low, 

sandy, and dry. Two small rivers run in the country, 

descending from the highlands of Abyssinia to the Red 

Sea, but only conspicuous during the rains. t This country is 

inhabited by various Arab tribes, known under the general 

name of Dankali, their territory stretching north to the 

neighbourhood of Arkeeko. Some centuries ago it was a 

rich country ; but now it is become very poor. It has, 

besides the anchorage on the Bay of Assab, another port 

called Bilur or Biloul, at which place (see map) Jerome 

Lobo landed on his mission to Abyssinia. It was then 

governed by a king, whose capital or camp he found 

about ten miles distant on a small river at the foot of a 

mountain, consisting of six tents and twenty cabins plant- 

ed amongst thorns and wild trees. Goats and honey were 

the chief products of the country. After travelling for 

many days, but chiefly by night, through a country almost 

destitute of water, it being then (June) the dry season, 

and abounding with serpents, pursuing a northerly course, 

they came to the bed of a river then dry, but water was 

to be found in pools. During the rains, a very large river 

descends in this bed, and it is that which enters the sea, in 

* Bruce, vol. iii. p. 113. ^ Ibid. 







[16] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



the Bay of Bure. After a march of some days along 

or by the bed of the river, they came to an opening in the 

mountain which is the only pass between the Dankali and 

Abyssinia, and through which they passed, when they im- 

mediately came to a fine country abounding with springs 

and streams, trees and verdure. They next crossed the 

salt plain, and after a journey of six or seven days they 

came to Fremona.* The salt plain is surrounded with 

very high mountains; it was crossed in one night's march. 

On the confines of Dankali and Abyssinia, there is a mix- 

ed race of Christians and Mahomedans called Taltal. f 

This is the name of a people and not of a place. The 

people of Dankali are sometimes called Ghibertis, which 

means people who are firm in the faith. Dankali is also 

sometimes called Samhar, which word is in fact used to 

designate all the sea coast both within and without the 

Straits of Babelmandeb. 



An got comes next in order. This was once an impor- 

tant and celebrated Province of Abyssinia when that coun- 

try was in the zenith of its power ; but it is now much 

circumscribed and reduced, having been overrun and de- 

solated by the Bestuma Galla under Guangoul. It is 

bounded east by the Taltal population, belonging to the 

state of Dankali, and the Dobas, a nation of Shepherds in- 

habiting the mountainous parts of the country to the 

south-west of Dankali, once Pagans, but afterward Ma- 

homedans. On the south and south-east, Angot is 

bounded by the Province of Dowaro ; on the west by 

Amharai and on the north-west by that part of Begemder 

called Lasta, and on the north-east by part of Tigre. 

This province formerly extended both to the north and 

* Lobo's Voyages, Purclias' Collection. f Bruce, vol. iii, p. 113, 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [17] 



the south of the dividing range of mountains and to the 

south-west as far as Lake Haik. This was its boundary 

when Alvaraez visited it ; but now, according to Mr. Krapf, 

all the portion situated to the south-west of the dividing 

range is separated from it, and belongs to the province of 

Geshen or Yeshen ; Angot proper in its south-west ex- 

tremity commencing at the point of the high lands, north 

of the River Ala, and where the road separates to go 

north-west to Lalibala, and north-east to Sokota. This 

province was once the place of the Royal residence, and 

was adorned with many fine churches, whicli have been 

dilapidated and destroyed by the Mahomedan and Galla 

conquerors. Angot is very elevated and very mountainous, 

abounding with springs, rivulets, and small rivers. The 

soil in the valleys is good and productive — cultivation and 

harvest go on together throughout the year. The coun- 

try has large flocks of sheep and herds of very fine cattle. 

Alvaraez says he met with some of the finest wheat in 

Angot that he ever saw in any country. The climate in 

the valleys is delicious ; but on the mountains it is exceed- 

ingly cold. Pearce in the month of October, found hoar- 

frost in the morning, on the summits of some, to the south 

of Lake Assanghe ; and where Mr. Krapf crossed the di- 

viding range, he estimated the height at 1 0,000 feet, the 

air keen and cold in March, and the country bleak and 

barren, with the scanty vegetation of extreme northern 

regions. The river Sabalette, according to Alvaraez, then 

separated Tigre from Angot, the capital of which was 

called Angeteraz, situated on a dry river, which shews 

that its course was short from the mountains, the dry sea- 

son having tlien just begun. 



At the river Aucona, described by Alvaraez as a con- 







[18] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



siderable river, commences the province or district of Bug- 

na or Bugana, the Portuguese name for Lasta. It is 

extremely mountainous, six days' journey from east to 

west, and three from north to south, the climate cold. 

It produces hemp, fine wheat, and abundance of cattle. 

This account given by Alvaraez is confirmed by Mr. Krapf 

and others in every respect. In continuing his route 

south west, Alvaraez describes the road as dreadful, 

" crawling" over stupendous ridges and traversing deep 

valleys, hill after hill, and valley after valley, exactly as Mr. 

Krapf and others found in parts immediately adjoining. 

The Dobas were in the days of Alvaraez Mahomedans, 

and their country, which was divided into twenty four 

captaincies, frequently at war with each other, extended 

from the borders of Angot fifteen days' journey to the Sea. 

The language of Angot began at Defarfo, which town was 

called Angotina. Near it, Alvai-aez saw 50,000 oxen, 

besides wheat. Angot produces barley, millet, beans, &c. 

A district of Bugana or Lasta, was known in the days of 

Alvaraez (1520) under the name of Acate, most probably 

the modern Sokota, in which were many fine churches, and 

the country produced fine wheat. Bruce states, that Bu- 

gana Bugna, or Lasta, may be said to belong to Angot ; but 

he just reverses its position, making it to the east of Angot. 

The name Corcora has given rise to great confusion in 

the Geography of this portion of Africa. There are two 

places of that name, one Corcora, a river to the north-east 

of Antalow ; and the other Corcora of Angot, a place six 

miles to the east of the river Sabalette. By not attend- 

ing to this distinction, much confusion has been created, 

and one error led to another. 



* Vol. iii. p. 7. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [19] 



The positions of these places are also well established by 

the following references. According to Bruce,* Ginna- 

mora was a small district of Abyssinia or Tireg bordering 

on the Dobas, and the people of which King David ap- 

pointed to subdue the latter. Another proof of their posi- 

tions in the south of Abyssinia is found in Bruce,f where 

he speaks of the savage people called Azeba, who dwell at 

Azab, and of their neighbours the Doha, more savage 

than they. King Yabous of Abyssinia, who went to sub- 

due both, marched straight from Enderta to the low coun- 

try about Azub ; and from thence, turning .to the right 

upon the Dobas, he successively invaded, desolated, and 

conquered both ; and having done so, returned to Enderta. 

Next in order comes the Province of Dowaro, the true 

position of which has been still less attended to. This 

neglect has produced most serious errors in the Geography 

of this once important portion of Africa. Dowaro was 

next to Angot on the south-east. It was bounded on the 

north by part of the Kingdom of Dankali ; it was sepa- 

rated from Angot and Dankali by the river Hawash, and 

bordered to the south upon Adel. The capital of Adel 

was not far from the capital of Dowaro, called Gaza. 

West of Dowaro was Gedem, a hilly country. Dowaro was 

the most eastern portion of Abyssinia, and bounded by the 

44th degree of East Longitude,:!: Through this province, the 

Abyssinian armies from Angot, Tigre &c. penetrated into 

Adel. On the banks of a river called Wole, the Abys- 

sinian emperor, Amda Sion, fought a most decisive battle 

with the sovereign of Adel. He passed the Wole, and 

cut them off from Adel ; and the host of the latter attempt- 

ing to retreat by passing the river lower down, were at- 

* Vol. iii. p. 173. + Vol. iv. p. 13G. ^ Bruce, vol. iii. pp. 2, 7, ")7. 







[20] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



tacked by the Abyssinians then on the right bank, and 

either slaughtered, or driven into the river at that point of 

considerable depth. This river Wole of Bruce, is doubt- 

less the river Ala mentioned by Mr. Krapf fSee Map. J 



Adjoining Dowaro, was the kingdom of Adel, and the 

particular province of that name. Adel or Adaial, was 

a general name given to the whole Mahomedam popula- 

tion of the eastern Horn of Africa. In the early periods 

of their history, it was specially confined to the country 

extendingfrom the Straits of Babelraandeb to the confines 

of Berbera on the sea coast and limits of the Abyssinian 

Empire inland ; but when this kingdom of Adel proper was 

almost annihilated by the conquests of Amda Sion, be- 

tween 1312 and 1342, the Mahomedans fled to the 

southward, and the states subsequently composing their 

Empire went under the name of Adel, and which extend- 

ed south to Magadosho and east to Cape Guardafui until 

overwhelmed and broken by the Somauli and Galla. But 

besides the general Empire of Adel, there was a particular 

portion of it which went by that name. The kingdoms of 

Adel and Mara, extended, we are told by Bruce, to the shores 

of the Sea.* Mara is called the desert Kingdom of Mara,t 

and of which Zeilah seems to have been the port and at one 

time the capital. Adel was bounded by the Dankali on the 

north, and extended to Assab. To the north and north- 

west was Dowaro ; to the east the Sea from Assab to the 

bays of Tajoura ; and to the south and east Mara.f The 

capital was Aussa, situated on a rock by the side of the 

river Hawash, and not far from the Lake of that name. 

On the west and south-west, Adel was bounded by the 

Empire of Abyssinia, in that portion of it which is now 

* Vol. iii. p. 50. t Ibid p. 71. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [21] 



known under the name of the kingdom of Shoa. Aussa 

during the height of the power of Adel, was a place of 

considerable impoitance. The position of the province 

of Adel is also well marked by the fact, that before one 

of his struggles with the Sovereign of Abyssinia and when 

that Prince was about to attack first the Dobas, the King 

of Adel advised them to send their wdves and children into 

Adel for safety, which twelve clans of them accordinglv 

did ; while the King of Abyssinia made his subjects of 

Wadje (W''aag) and Ganz cultivate the grounds which they 

had left.* 



Mara. This province was bounded by Adel on the north 

and north-west, by the sea on the east, and by the Hawash, 

Gan and Bali and the State of Harrar on the west, south- 

west, south, and by some petty states to the south of Zei- 

lah on the south-east. It was comparatively a dry country, 

as we find all that country from the Hawash to Zeilali 

now is ; but it was in former days powerful and rich, the 

commerce from India to the Persian Gulf and Abyssinia, 

and other parts of Africa adjacent, passing through it. 

The capital of Hadea (Hurrur) was situated to the south- 

ward and south-westward of Mara ; Wogla, and Pagama, 

small principalities dependent upon Adel, being upon the 

sea-coast. f The centre of Mara was approached from Do- 

waro, and from Dowaro the King of Abyssinia crossed the 

Hawash, in order to enter " the desert kingdom of Mara.":t 

That the kingdom of Mara is also applied to all or a 

portion of the kingdom of Adel near the sea is, I think, ob- 

vious, from the account of the King of Abyssinia in one of 

his excursions passing the great river Yass, which river is 

stated to be in the kingdom of Mara. Advancing beyond, 

* Bruce, vol. iii. p. 115. f lb. p. 47. ^ lb. p. GO", dc. 







[22] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



he came to the strong fortress of Dassi, where there was 

no water, except what was found by digging in the earth 

and sand.* Now Yasso or Yass must be the river which is 

formed by the united streams of the Ala, the Ancona, and 

Sabalette, called also Hanazo ; for except the Hawash, there 

is no other river in these quarters which deserves the name 

of great, f Salt says expressly, that the river Yass was to the 

north of Zeilah. Being in the rainy season, however, when 

the king entered this country, it may have been the river 

mentioned by M. Rochet as rising in Killalou. When joined 

by its tributaries to the north, it would at that season be 

a large stream. The inhabitants of Aussa and Adel are 

tawny, not black, and have long hair. They are some- 

times called Ghiberties, which means, strong in the faith. 

The country around the Hawash, and in the valleys, is called 

Kolla, or Khulla, the low country, to distinguish it from 

the high mountainous districts of Abyssinia and Shoa. 

It is very fertile, but hot, and in the rainy season sickly. 

The name is applied generally throughout Africa, to desig- 

nate the low from the mountainous districts. Beyond the 

Kolla, or low country mentioned, is the country named Sam- 

har, which is a general word used to designate the sea- 

coast in a country dry and barren. 



Having thus, it is humbly conceived, rectified the geo- 

graphical positions of these and more important provinces 

of Mahomedan dominion in Eastern Africa, the positions 

of other places deserve less notice, and only require to be 

enumerated to be seen and understood on the maps. 



Adjoining to and south-eastward of Efat is the district 

of Gan, and adjoining and eastward of it again is Bali, a 

small kingdom, through which the Gallas first rushed into 

* Bruce, vol. iii. p. 48. t Salt, p. 102. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [23] 



Abyssinia in 1559, Bali is west south-west of Zeilah, and 

south-west of Mocawa. Fattigar, * once a considerable 

province, lies to the southward and south-westward of 

Gan and Bali of the ancient Mahomedans. The capital 

is called Bulga, a name which is sometimes given to the 

whole pro'ince. To the eastward and southward of these 

last named provinces or districts, lies Hadea, called also Har- 

rar, or in the Abyssinian mode of pronounciation, Harraye, 

after the capital, called also Harrar. This place was once 

the seat of a great Mahomedan state, and the centre of 

their power in this portion of Africa, after the kingdom of 

A del was overthrown. In the days of Alvaraez the territory 

of Hadea stretched to Magadoxa. To the west of Hadea, 

he states, was Gan, and south-west from it Gurague. In 

this kingdom was a great lake so broad, that one side 

could not be seenfi-om the other.* This must be the Souie 

or Zawaja, which is stated by late travellers to be very large 

and broad. The country around it is very fine, but sickly. 

Mahommed, surnamed Gragne, or left handed, ruled this 

country about the year 1525 ; and soon after Alvaraez left 

Abyssinia, he invaded, and during the reign of that unfor- 

tunate prince, David, overran and almost ruined the whole 

of Abvssinia. He was at length conquered and killed by 

the aid of some Portuguese troops, Abyssinia delivered, 

and Hadea, like other states in this portion of Africa, over- 

whelmed by the Gallas. 



According to Bruce,! Hadea was a large town with five 

gates, and then the capital of Adel, Aussa being then de- 

pendent upon it. Ninety-nine villages paid tribute to it, 

and its Chief was constantly engaged in war with the 

Abyssinians and the Galla. It is still a place of some impor- 

* Rochet, p. lOG. t Vol. vii. pp. 91,92. 







[24] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



tance, and carries on a considerable traffic with Berbera 

and Zeilah. The distance to Berbera is twenty journeys, 

to Ankobar seventeen, and to Zeilah, according to Harris, 

fourteen. Bruce and Alvaraez state the latter distance to 

be eight days' journey ; but this may be the distance when 

travelled by a special messenger. From Aussa to Harrar 

the distance given by Bruce was seven days of a messen- 

ger, and Harris gives it the same. According to the ac- 

counts received by Harris, Harrar exports to Zeilah and 

Berbera yearly 2000 bales of coffee, besides wheat. The 

population is agricultural, use the Arabic language, and are 

subject to the Essa Somauli. Their language has an affin- 

ity to the Amharic. The climate is warmer than that of 

Shoa. From Errur to Harrar the road is stony, but suffi- 

ciently level to admit the transport of guns or carriages. 

The walls of the town are twelve feet high, three feet thick, 

and two hours' travel in circumference. It is situated in a 

verdant valley, and is well supplied with water from springs 

in the neighbourhood. The country to the southward is 

mountainous, but fertile and fine, even southward toward 

Magadoxo. So Alvaraez relates on the authority of a king 

of Abyssinia, who, during his residence at that court, went 

with an array to restore the authority of the queen, who 

had been threatened with expulsion from the throne by 

some of her warlike neighbours. The king defeated them, 

pursued them southward a great distance, adding, that he 

might have marched to Magadoxo. 



Regarding the rivers in this portion of Africa, our ac- 

counts are imperfect. When the King of Abyssinia had 

conquered Zeilah, he marched southward, subduing the 

different small states, and, in the early part of his route, 

passed the great river Acco. This is most probably the 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [25] 



Wochane of modern maps. Salt says that it was at no great 

distance from Zeilah, in an opposite direction from the 

Yass, which is to the north. The king next crossed the 

great river Zorat, wliich is an early branch of the river 

that enters the sea, not far from Magadoxo. The Zorat 

is in the country of a people then called Oritii. Salt says, * 

that the extent of the King of Abyssinia's conquests in this 

country, was about 200 miles south-west of Zeilah. This 

river, which enters the sea near Magadoxo, according to 

accounts received by the Embassy of Captain Harris, f 

enters the sea in latitude 2° north, and among other names 

which it has, is also called Bargama. This enables us to 

trace the early sources of its principal stream in the coun- 

try of Bargama, or Bahar-Gama, as Bruce also calls it. + 



From Hurrur or Harar westward, the different states, so 

far as they are correctly known to us, are laid down in their 

order, and as near their proper positions (see map) as the in- 

formation hitherto received will enable us. Some of them 

will require to be more particularly alluded to hereafter. 



Of the magnitude, power, and population of all the states 

and provinces which composed the kingdom of Adel in its 

best davs, we may judge from the fact mentioned in Abys- 

sinian history, as recorded by Bruce, § that when their 

existence as a people was at stake, on the advance of 

Amda Zion against them, they could only bring into the 

field under their sixteen chiefs or leaders 44,000 men. 



After all Arabia had embraced the Religion of Mahom- 

raed, her roving sons quickly found their way into Africa, 

which they first entered across the Straits of Babelmandcb. 

They soon spread themselves along the shores of the 

Red Sea within and without the Straits. For a time 

♦ p. 102. t Bombay Times, July, 1842. :: Vol. iii. p. 7. § lb. p. 71- 



c 







[26] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



they were subject to Abyssinia, then a powerful state ; but 

they gradually assumed an independent and aggressive 

attitude. Commanding the external trade of this portion 

of Africa with all the Eastern world, they became rich and 

powerful, and from the spirit of their Religion, were mak- 

ing continual inroads into the Abyssinian territories. This 

provoked Amda Zion, who, in the early part of the 1 3th 

century, nearly — as has been already stated — destroyed 

them, and completely annihilated the kingdom of Adel. On 

the decline of their power, the Arabs were succeeded by the 

Turks, who spread themselves in these parts, and by the 

assistance of artillery and the new mode of warfare which 

it occasioned, again recruited the Mahomedan power in 

this part of Africa. During the reign of the unfortunate 

Abyssinian Prince David, 1525 to 1540, the Mahomedans 

overran and desolated the whole of Abyssinia, till they were 

overthrown by the assistance of the Portuguese ; and subse- 

quently the conquerors and the conquered, especially the 

latter, were overpowered by the barbarous Gallas. This 

savage people completely destroyed the Mahomedan 

power throughout the whole Eastern Horn of Africa, and 

the once great Abyssinian Empire has been shockingly 

mutilated and curtailed of its territories by them. 



But to return to the journeys of the travellers imme- 

diately under consideration. Between Ankobar and Angol- 

lala, a favourite residence of the King, Mr. Isenberg 

and his companion met Sahela Salassieh, the King of Shoa, 

the Christian sovereign of a Christian people. By him 

they were cordially received and welcomed to Shoa, and 

under the protection of such a Sovereign, great is the good 

that such worthy men may do in Africa. The King of 

Shoa is despotic. Person and property are alike at his 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [27] 



disposal throughout his dominions. The Christianity of 

Shoa is the tenets of the Alexandrian Greek Church, but 

sadly debased and corrupted from its original purity. 

Still, amidst the darkness which has overspread the land, 

several of the most important and fundamental truths of the 

Gospel are known, acknowledged, and understood, though 

greatly disregarded. Greatly corrupted and debased, 

however, as it is, still, considering every circumstance, the 

revolutions and desolation which have come upon them, 

and with which they have been visited during a period of 

many centuries, it is surprising to find matters, as regards 

the Christian Rehgion in those remote pai'ts of Africa, in 

the state that they are. These place before us the invinci- 

ble proof, by the fact witnessed in Africa, as it has before 

time been witnessed and established in both Europe and 

Asia, that Christianity once planted in any country can 

never be eradicated ; and that, though for a time it may, 

from the transgressions of professors thereof, be subjected 

to severe misfortunes, and severe chastisements, yet it will 

finally raise itself above the ruins of ages and of Empires, 

and in the beauty of holiness, rise superior to all its ene- 

mies, and go on conquering and to conquer. 



The journals of Messrs. Krapf and Isenberg will suffici- 

ently explain to the reader their reception and their pros- 

pects in Shoa, the state of Religion, and the manners and 

the morals of the people of that kingdom, as also those 

of some of the neighbouring people. Leaving this, we 

proceed to the geographical narrative. 



On the 28th January 1840, Mr. Krapf (Mr. Isenberg 

having previously returned to England) accompanied the 

King of Shoa with a considerable army on a hostile expe- 

dition to the westward, in order to punish some of his 

C 2 







[28] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



refractory Galla subjects. M. Rochet, the French gentle- 

man already alluded to, accompanied them. The army 

marched in about a true west-south-west direction in the 

route as laid down on the map. They first crossed the 

river Tshalsha, then the Belat, then the Sana Robi, then the 

RosetaandDekama, the head streams of the Ziega Wodiam, 

and next the Robi, the parent stream of the great Indores. 

Some other smaller streams wei'e passed in the route, all 

bending their courses to the Djimma. The country as 

they advanced from Angollala became more beautiful and 

fruitful, every hill and valley being, it may be said, inha- 

bited by a distinct Galla tribe. Their names are particu- 

larly enumerated by Mr. Krapf. The huts and villages of 

these people are of the rudest and simplest kind ; and in 

the perpetual feuds that ensue, from their refusal to pay 

the tributes exacted, these are generally swept away by 

fire, but are soon again erected. From a high mountain, 

one of the Wogidi range, to the north of the encampment 

by the Robi, they saw the mountains of Gojam and the 

Blue River or Abawi, winding along among them. The 

march was continued from the Robi still further west south- 

west, till their last camp was fixed within a few miles of 

the soui'ces of the Hawash, proceeding from a small lake 

with high mountains to the south and south-west. At 

this point they were only one day's (Shoa) journey from 

the Abawi, or about twenty-five miles, which shews that 

the Nile goes a little further south, about twenty miles, 

than it has hitherto been laid down on the best maps. 

From the point mentioned, the army marched east south- 

east, at about a day's journey from the Hawash, running 

along the valley on their right : one day's journey beyond 

it was the first village of Gurague, the high hills of which 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [29] 



were distinctly visible in the south-east. In their route 

they passed to the south of the high mountain of Indotto, 

the source of the River Robi, and famous in Abyssinian 

history as the residence and place of interment of some of 

their kings. From the extreme south-east point on their 

route, as marked in the map, the army returned in a north- 

east direction over the high lands to Angollala, leaving 

Fattigar on the right. Beyond Indotto they passed some 

hot springs. Fattigar in the days of Alvaraez was ac- 

counted the extreme south-west point of the kingdom of 

Adel. It is, he said, a low Champagne country, that is, 

composed of low hills, well cultivated, and abounding with 

cattle, sheep, goats, oxen, mares, and mules. Mount Indotto 

was covered with trees, and numerous rivulets pour down 

from its steep sides : on its summit is a considerable lake. 

Such are the accounts which Alvaraez gives of these 

places when he visited them, and the accounts received by 

Mr. Krapf are nearly to the same effect. 



The Hawash near its source meanders eastward through 

the plain, being there about eight feet deep, and twenty-five 

broad. It separates the provinces of Souaie, Gurague, and 

the Sedda Gallas from the Meta Vochia Gallas, Belcheo Au- 

rippe, and part of the Province of Zamietta. The mountains 

of Zamietta are covered with beautiful cedars. Mr. Krapf 

enumerates the different Galla tribes from the sources of the 

Hawash to Gooderoo, which place it is plain is at no great 

distance. The village of Rogie is a famous market for slaves, 

brought from the countries of Gingiro, Gurague, Enarea, 

and other places. The price of a slave is five Talari. 



According to Bruce * Gumar is south-west of Fattigar, 

and east of Bahar Gama. But this is different from the 



* Xo]. iii. p. 7. 







[30] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



position hitherto given in the best maps. The capital of 

Gingiro is seven days' journey due east from Sakka, the 

chief market of Enarea. Cambat is eight days' journey 

due east from Gingiro, the road to Gingiro crossing the 

Zebee one day's journey from the capital, and the road to 

Cambat crosses the Zebee, two days' journey from Gingiro. 

This latter place was once a powerful state, having four- 

teen states subject to it ; but it is now much reduced. 

The capital of Cambat is called Sangara. According to 

Bruce, Gurague was ten days' journey distant from Cambat, 

and on the left hand going eastward. Gingiro was re- 

ported to Mr. Krapf to be only eight days' journey from 

Gurague. North of Gingiro is the country of Mugar or 

Magar, a powerful and populous country inhabited by 

Christians, and next to Enarea on the east. It is the 

same as Sidama, a name generally applied in these parts to 

designate a distinct inhabited by Christians. The Aroosse 

Gallas are east of Gurague, and so also is the Sierme and 

Luban. AUaba is a kingdom on the road from Cambat to 

Bali. South-west by west of Zeilah is a country called 

Ogge, inhabited by Christians. South of Gurague is a 

Galla tribe called Damo, dwelling around the River Wiser. 

There are a great many Christians in Gurague, and many 

monasteries. Much coffee, wine, and fine honey are pro- 

duced in Gurague ; and coffee is also abundant in the 

countries around the sources of the Hawash, and in fact 

it is found plentiful in all the countries from the Nile 

southward to Enarea and Caffa inclusive. It grows wild 

in all these places. 



A great many of the Gallas have since their invasion of 

Abyssinia been converted to Christianity, and make 

better Christians than either the population of Shoa or 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [31] 



Abyssinia. In general they dislike the Christian Religion, 

because, they say, that the people of Shoa, who profess it, 

are no better than themselves. The great body of them 

cling to the religion of their forefathers, which is pure 

and simple Paganism. Among them are no Ministers of 

Religion of any description. They worship a superior being 

under the name of Waake, the Ouack of Ouare, the Galla 

lately brought to France. They pay adoration to the Moon, 

and also to certain Stars, and in every tribe they worship the 

Wanzey tree, under which their Kings are crowned. Some 

of them to the south have been converted to the Mahom- 

medan faith. The Pagan Gallas have limited ideas of future 

punishment ; their marriages are extremely simple, and 

they have a great affection for their children. Circumci- 

sion is known and practised among them. It is also 

remarkable, that " when an elder brother dies, leaving 

younger brothers behind him, and a widow young enough 

to bear children, the younger brother of all is obliged to 

marry her ; but the children of the marriage are always 

accounted as if they were the elder brother's ; nor does the 

marriage of the younger brother to the widow entitle him 

to any part of the deceased's fortune." * They are all 

extremely filthy in their habits, anointing their heads and 

bodies with melted butter or grease. They are generally 

of a brown complexion and well formed ; many of them 

are very fair and almost white, arising probably from the 

great elevation of the country from whence they origi- 

nally came. Although they have little or no idea of 

future punishment, yet " all of them believe, that after 

dcatli they are to live again ; that they arc to rise with 

their bodies as they were on earth, to enter into another life, 



* Bruce, Vol. iii. p. 247. 







[32] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



they know not where, but they are to be in a state of body 

infinitely more perfect than the present, and are to die no 

more, nor suffer grief, sickness, or trouble of any kind." 



In 1841 Mr. Krapf, accompanied by Dr. Beke, now 

engaged in endeavouring to penetrate into the interior of 

Africa from Shoa westward, went on an excursion to 

the northward. They reached Kok Fara, a place about 

forty geographical miles north of Ankobar, and two days' 

journey south of the Berkona. In their route northwards 

they passed the sources of the Rivers Awiddi, Robi, and 

others, which flow into the H awash ; and on their return, 

thev crossed on their immediate sources a few of the rivers 

which join to form various rivers that flow to fill the 

River Djimma, a considerable branch of the Nile, or 

Abawi. The province of Gheddem or Gedem lay to the 

east and south-east of Kok Fara, and in the latter direc- 

tion there is a wilderness much frequented by elephants. 

The country throughout their short route was rugged and 

mountainous in the extreme, — abrupt hills, deep valleys, 

and numerous rivulets and small rivers (see map) at every 

step. Ephrata, one day's journey north of Rok Fara, is the 

last town in that direction belonging to the kingdom of 

Shoa. The country beyond is under the dominion of Bora, 

the ruler of Argobba. On a bearing of North 38° west 

from the valley of Wock Washa, is a lake called Ali Baks- 

cour, which is of volcanic origin. 



The next journey which requires to be noticed here, is 

that performed by Dr. Beke from AngoUala westward, 

across the Abawi or Nile to Dima in Gojam, where the 

last accounts left that traveller. This journey was under- 

taken in the autumn of 1841. Dr. Beke left Angollala 



* Bruce, Vol. iii. p. 244. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [33] 



on the ninth of October. He pursued the route as laid 

down in the map through a country exceedingly picturesque 

and interesting. Tlie rivers ran in deep valleys with steep 

hills on either sides as their banks. The Bersena, Tshalsha, 

and Chakka join, and form the Adebai. The strong town 

and position of Dey is from six hundred to seven hundred feet 

below Angollala, and situated at the junction of the Adebai 

and Bersena. The continuation of the plateau of Shoa is 

seven thousand eight hundred and eighty- seven feet above 

the level of the sea. Several stupendous cataracts are 

foimd in the rivers near Angolalla and Tegulet. The 

road was westerly, always descending, and the scenery 

very beautiful. Where he crossed the Bersena the bed of 

the river was one hundred feet broad; but the stream 

in it then only twenty feet broad, the dry season having 

commenced. The district south of the Bersena is called 

Enzarro. Tobacco, cotton, maize, &c., were cultivated 

around the rivers. Enzarro is populous and fertile. In 

the route westward, he passed rivulets, Kersa and Bon, 

which, united, flow north-west to the Djimma. Soon 

after this he came to the Ziega Wodiam, running rapidly 

through deep valleys or dales to the Djimma. On each 

side were rocky bluffs. The bed of the river was about 

two hundred feet broad ; but the breadth of the stream 

then only twenty feet, and eighteen inches deep. The 

bottom was sand. The mountains are precipitous, and 

run in ridges from south to north on the south side of 

the Djimma, and from north to south on the north side 

of that river, the rivers running in deep valleys between 

them. On the left was the deep and fine valley of the 

Ziega Wodiam, and that of Sofa to the right. The cele- 

brated raonasterv of Dobra Libanos is about eight miles 







34] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



south-east from Ancorcha. It was at that place that 

Alvaraez with the Portuguese Embassy reached the court 

of David, King of Abyssinia. The vicinity of Angorcha is 

mountainous and barren. Gold has been found near 

Dobra or Debra Libanos. 



Proceeding westward, Dr. Beke crossed the River Sofa 

and the valley through which it runs, extending in a south- 

west direction, after which he came to high table land, 

which extends from the Abawi to Ankobar. He reached 

Gera, the political seat of Abba Wial, the Governor of the 

district, who prefers to reside at Wogidi. This place stood 

in a plain on a mountain, from the Chief's house in which 

there was a fine view of the Djimma and a most dehghtful 

prospect of the country as far as the Abawi or Nile, and 

beyond it the mountains of Gojam. After leaving Wogidi, 

he crossed the large stream called Sielrae, the general name 

for the Galla tribes in the neighbourhood; the stream 

running rapidly over stones to the Djimma ; the water from 

fifteen to twenty feet broad, but the bed three times 

that breadth. The road ran through a beautiful plain to 

Lalissa : the country between it and Sielme is studded with 

villages. Pursuing their route westward, they crossed the 

torrent Hidalli, then little Indores River, and next Great 

Indores (the source of which to the south is the Robi), 

the stream running between steep banks, then ten feet 

broad. From the great Indores, the ride was through a 

lovely rich country to the village Adda ; after which the 

road becomes rough and rugged to Abaddo, the residence 

of the Galla Chief Gianche. Beyond Abaddo, three hours 

through jungle, and down a steep mountain principally on 

foot, the River Djimma, not Jumma, was reached. The 

mountains on both sides dip into the stream, here twenty- 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [35] 



five to thirty yards broad, with a beach on each side of 

equal extent, and the depth three feet, with a rapid cur- 

rent in the middle. Crossing the river they pursued 

their way, in some places through rich meadows, to Sala- 

kuUa, a village composed of reed huts, and built upon 

an elevated projection of the mountain, lining the valley 

of the Abawi, and the residence of the Chief Maria, the son 

of Sabasa, who appeared to be as poor as any of his 

miserable subjects, Salakulla is 10^ 2' 8" North Latitude. 



After some wrangling with this Chief, Dr Beke pro- 

ceeded to the Abawi, a few miles distant, passing the 

villages of Sakka and Felop. The stream descended from 

the north-north-west, amidst steep banks descending 

in terraces. Dr. Beke considered the river as fordable ; 

but his guides would not hear of passing it in any other 

way than that to which they were accustomed, namely, on 

inflated skins, by which means the travellers' baggage was 

all wetted and much injured, and subsequently in drying it, 

a considerable portion of it was stolen. He crossed the 

stream at a bend where it comes from east-north-east. The 

breadth then was two hundred yards, the current on the 

east side two miles, and on the west side three miles per 

hour— so rapid as to render it difficult to reach that side. 

A mule was carried down and nearly drowned. This 

passage was effected at no very great distance above the 

junction of the Djimma. The elevation of the bed of the 

Nile, Dr. Beke calculated to be three thousand feet above 

the level of the sea ; but which does not agree with the 

height of its sources, or the elevation of the Tlain of Scnaar 

as given by Bruce, of which more hereafter. 



From the banks of the Abawi, Dr. Beke went on to 

Diraa in Cojam, commonly known under the name of Diraa 







[36] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



Georges, from a monastery and church dedicated to St. 

George, which stands in that place. It is a considerable 

place, speaking comparatively as regards other towns and 

villages in this quarter. It stands in 10" 22' North Lati- 

tude. The town is surrounded with stone walls, and 

there are also several houses in it built of stone. In his 

way to Dima, Dr. Beke passed the villages of Shebal, Kas- 

ham, and Arisetot, the former of which divides the Christian 

from the Galla ; then the town Bichana, a considerable 

place, at which a regular market is held. Before reach- 

ing Dima, the River Gad is crossed just above a point 

where it falls over a precipice several hundred feet high. 

Owing to the great height of the fall, the river in the dry 

season descends in complete spray ; but during the rains 

the sight must be magnificent. The country from Shebal 

to Dima was generally undulating and a fine grassy plain. 

From Dima, Dr. Beke intended to proceed to Goutta, at the 

sources of the Nile, and thence, by the assistance of the 

Chief of that place, whom he met at Dima, and then 

about to be restored to his authority, to proceed to Bure 

and Basso, in order to prosecute his journey into the 

interior. 



In the spring of 1842, Mr. Krapf resolved to leave 

Ankobar, and proceed to Egypt on business, with the inten- 

tion of returning again to Shoa ; and he resolved to proceed 

by Gondar and Massowah. He accordingly left Ankobar 

on the 10th of March, and proceeding to AngoUala ob- 

tained from the king permission to depart on his intended 

journey. From Angollala he proceeded to Dobra Berhan, 

or "hill of light," a favourite residence of the kings, the 

country in the distance being level, with small hills and 

plains. The river Beresa runs south of the village, the 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [37] 



banks high and wooded, with several high cataracts in its 

bed. 3Ir. Krapf's route is distinctly marked on the map, 

until he reached about half way between the Bachilo and 

Daunt, where he was forced to turn back and proceed 

southward to Gatera, from which place he travelled east- 

ward to Lake Haik, resolving to take the road to Mas- 

sowah by Antalow. To his journal the reader is referred 

for every thing particular that occurred on the road ; the 

various rivers and places that he passed are all distinctly 

laid dowTi. The country everywhere was mountainous 

and rugged, the hills precipitous, and the rapid rivers and 

rivulets flowing over cataracts through deep valleys, the 

descent to some of which was, in a very short distance, 

3000 feet. The ridges run in the direction of north north- 

east to south south-west, and Mr. Krapf distinctly states, 

that all the streams which flow westward from the dividing 

range are absorbed in the Djimma and the Bachilo. This 

is curious and important. It shows that the high land of 

the mountains of Amid extends across the Abawi to the 

culminating points in Woora Galla ; and hence the district 

of Walaka is elevated, but wet and marshy, and conse- 

quently sickly, as it is stated to be ; and that no river of 

any importance flows, or can flow through it westward to 

the Nile. The country in several places is fertile and well 

cultivated, but much distracted and injured by wars and 

strifes between the difterent petty tribes and rulers, who 

set the authority of the sovereign of Abyssinia on the one 

hand, and the King of Shoa on the other, equally at defi- 

ance, i^fter crossing the river Gonagonit, came to a tre- 

mendous chasm, three feet wide and 200 feet long ; but of 

unknown and enormous depth. It is called Tegulet Wat, 

or "the devouring depth of Tegulet." At Zalla Dengai 







[38] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



the cold was great. The river Mofer separates Shoa from 

Mans. This stream receives many tributaries. It rises in 

Mount Tamabar and flows to the Djimma. The chmate of 

Mans is very cold, which shows its great elevation. Sheep 

in Mans have long black wool. The soil is black, and pro- 

duces wheat, barley, peas, beans, hogs and sheep in abun- 

dance. The river Xetmat where crossed, was then only 

fourteen feet broad. The district of Sala is bounded north 

by the river Aflamat, and east by Gheddem. West of the 

route was a large deep basin, into which the rivers Igam, 

Aflamat, and others join, and afterward form the Knowa 

under the general name of Gherid, and which joins the 

Djimma, near Koom Dangai in Shoa Meda. In his route 

hence, Mr. Krapf crossed the river Shai, which goes 

through the famous Lake Alebai on the west of Mans, 

after leaving which the river is called Shammas, and joins 

the Djimma. This lake is a day's journey in circumference. 

The tradition is, that it was formed by a destruction or 

visitation similar to that which destroyed Sodom and Gom- 

morrah. This is the lake, most probably, which is alluded 

to by Dr. Beke and Mr. Krapf as bearing north 38° west 

from the valley of Woch Washa. About the river Ghe- 

doot the country is volcanic, large rocks thrown down lay 

all around, and at Tagabile, seen at a distance, mineral 

waters were found. The river Kachenu was twenty-five 

feet broad, but the banks separate eighty feet. It is joined 

below by the rivers Katame and Woia, which come from the 

north of Shoa. The junction takes place in the north- 

west, at Dair, a frontier town and seat of the governor of 

the frontiers. The river Woia separates Woolla Galla from 

Shoa. The mountains in Woolla Galla are sometimes plain 

and level. The highest in this country are Sako, on which 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [39] 



hailisfrequently seen, and Korhora and Yelt. Gaterais the 

capital of Woolla Gall a, ruled by Adara Bille ; and east of 

his territory is Worra Galla, under the ruler Beroo Soobo. 

The mountainous range to the east are part of the Efatian 

or Chakka chain. The boundary of the Worra Galla to 

the east is the country of Adel and the territory of Iman 

Faris, who resides in Gherfa. After leaving Tartar Amba, 

saw to the right two high steep hills, called upper and 

lower Chaffa. Tanta is the capital of the Tribe Worra 

Himana, where Imam Liban resides. The power of this 

Chief thirty years ago extended over Geshen, and to the 

frontiers of Lasta. Its extent now is five days' journey 

from east to west. Tanta contains 600 inhabitants. 



Here it may be remarked, how necessary it is to recon- 

sider conclusions come to on the spot, and how persons at 

a distance can see errors which travellers on the spot do not 

perceive. Thus Mr. Krapf says of the rivers Adella and Mel- 

cho Chilla, that the former comes from mount Korhora, and 

the latter from mount Sako. Soon after, when he came 

to travel eastward from Gatera to Lake Haik, he passed 

the river Gherado, which ran north-west to the Bachilo, 

which cuts off the sources of the two rivers mentioned in 

the mountains alluded to, and shows that their true sources 

are much short of these mountains, and to the west of the 

river Gherado last mentioned. 



The bed of the Bachilo was found to be 100 feet broad, 

but the breadth of water in it only thirty feet, and about 

half a foot deep. It is a fine river, and takes up the wa- 

ters of all the rivers and torrents in those parts. From it 

there was a fine view to the west of the monastery of Sa- 

mayda in the north-cast of Gojam, the mountains of Be- 

gemder, and capital of Ras Ali. Dcbra Sabor was also in 







[40] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



view from an eminence to the eastward of the point where 

the Bachilo was first crossed. The course of the Bachilo 

is exceedingly winding and circuitous. The plain of Da- 

tanta to the north of the Bachilo was rich in cattle and 

grass, and indicated considerable wealth. The road to 

Maitsha was in the south-west corner of the plain. When 

advanced about six miles beyond the Bachilo, Mr. Krapf 

was obliged to turn back, and crossing the Bachilo higher 

up returned to Gatera by Tartar Amba and Totola, the 

latter one of the greatest markets in Abyssinia, and fre- 

quented by merchants from Gondar, Tigre, and Shoa. Be- 

roos people trade with theDannakils andTajoura. Leaving 

Totola and advancing to Gatera, they had a most magnifi- 

cent view of the territories of the Woolla Galla. Ranges 

of mountains run from south or south-east to north-east and 

north, each range separated from the other by a plain or a 

river, or a torrent. The rivers run chiefly to the Bachilo, 

which collects its waters from 100 miles round to carry 

its tribute to the Nile. Woorra Kallo, or "Woolla Galla, is the 

place where the caravans going to Aussa and Tajoura assem- 

ble. At Gatera Mr. Krapf was robbed and very ill-treated 

by the Chief Adara Bille, from whom he escaped after 

some difficulty. 



On the 6th of April, Mr. Krapf left Gatera, and pass- 

ing by Totola marched through a beautiful valley intersected 

by the river Gherado, which runs north-west to the Bachilo, 

he came to the Berkona, which descending from the north- 

west, soon after turns to the east, and runs to the country 

of Adel. Totola is in Woorra Kallo. The district of To- 

tola extends from ten to fifteen miles. The plain is watered 

by aqueducts, and has abundance of cattle. W^iere crossed, 

the river Berkona was twenty feet wide, and one span deep ; 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [41] 



its source six miles distant, in the hill Boroo. Beyond the 

Berkona he came to mount Moffa, the capital of Amana, 

and in course of a few miles fui-ther came to the celebrated 

lake called Haik. Most of the waters of Woorra Kallo 

join the Berkona. The approach to lake Haik was through 

a beautiful fertile valley, the soil of which was a black 

mould. This celebrated lake is, according to Mr. Krapf, 

about forty-five miles in circumference ; its length from 

east to west greater than its breadth. It has several bays, 

and within a few hundred yards of the north-west corner, 

is an island called Debra Nayoodquad, (hill of thunder) 

distant from the mainland about 260 yards. The island is 

almost square, with a monastery and 100 houses. The 

surrounding scenery is fine, and the climate is agreeable. On 

the east and south sides there are steep mountains ; but on 

the other sides the shores are low. Alvaraez says, that it 

overflows at two places during the rains, which must, of 

course, be on the west side, and the superabundant waters 

must accordingly flow into the Berkona. High mountains 

stood to the north and north-west, one of which was mount 

Sagorat, at the northern foot of which rose the river 

Bachilo, not far from the sources of the Berkona : extreme 

high land, however, rising between them. 



Quitting Lake Haik, Mr. Krapf set out on his arduous 

journey to Antalow. After passing the village of Bora, 

he crossed the river Mille, then fifteen feet broad, and three 

inches deep. It springs from the foot of Mount Mofa, and 

joining the Berkona flows into the Hawash. The range 

of mountains previously alluded to, surrounds Abyssinia 

like a girdle toward the east and north-east. The Mille 

flowed through a beautiful valley, the soil of which was 

rich with trees and grass, but with little cultivation. Be- 







[42] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



yond the Mille is the celebrated mountain in Geshen, for- 

merly the state prison for the royal family of Abyssinia. 

The proper name is Amba Israel, corrupted to Ambassil. 

It extends from nine to twelve miles in a northerly direction, 

and is very high and steep, with several conspicuous peaks. 

It is so steep and so high that Mr. Krapf conceived a can- 

non ball would not reach its summit. Mount Geshano 

lays to the north west of Mount Amba Israel. The 

Governor of the mountain was Ali Beroo : the population 

independent Mahomedans. The river Mille runs through 

the districts of Scoba and Goombesa, and passing them 

traverses the district of Wochale. Near Lubso they en- 

tered the country or province of Yeshoo, The village of 

Mersa is frequented by merchants from Yeshoo. The 

country east to the Dannakils was almost a wilderness. 

The River Ergibba runs to the country of Adel, and on its 

banks are many coffee trees. The people of Yeshoo have 

a curious custom of standing still and turning their backs 

to a stranger whom they may meet, till they receive a bless- 

ing. Something of this kind is witnessed in Georgia, and 

in countries to the south of the Cacausus. The village of 

Mersa is a little beyond the river of that name, which 

comes from the northwestward, and carries a considerable 

quantity of water in its bed. The climate in the plains is 

beautiful, and cotton and red pepper grow on the banks of 

the river. After crossing the Mersa they came to Woldaia, 

the capital of Dejasmady, the Governor of Yeshoo. Pur- 

suing the journey north-east, they crossed the river Ala, 

having previously crossed a stream called the black water, 

both of which run to the eastward. The Ala was a 

considerable stream. Stopping at the village of Shal 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [43] 



for tlie night, they next day ascended the high land which 

divides Yeshoo from Lasta and the northern Angot. 



Shal is in the district of Sacke. In the forenoon, the 

travellers, after passing many rivulets, reached an 

elevated spot where the road divides, the one going north- 

west to Lalibela, and the other north-east to Sokota and 

Antalow. Angot commenced immediately to the east. 

The mountains run north-east from south and south- 

west : Angot is now dependent upon Yeshoo. At some 

distance to the east, saw a very high mountain in Angot 

inhabited by the Raia Gallas. A river runs through a 

plain in the province, the magnitude of which was uncer- 

tain. During the night they stopped at the village of 

Saragodel. 



Leaving Saragodel they ascended till about 9 a.m. — the 

road a complete wilderness. The highland of Lasta and 

Angot is very cold, and quite different from the climate of 

Yeshoo. There were no trees ; saw some foxes, no birds, 

nor travellers, nothing but desolation and a coarse grass 

called Goossar, the growth of most elevated cold places — 

the height here supposed to be 10,000 feet above the 

level of the sea. After mid-day they came to a few houses, 

and from two o'clock they began to descend, and the 

country began to improve, and water became abundant. 

They found many fine birds, and juniper trees, and nume- 

rous deep beds of rivulets, all of which had their courses 

to the north-west. The boundary mountains of Lasta 

and Wofila, send off streams which run to Adel. At the 

village of Deldie, or the bridge, the travellers rested for the 

night. This point is a place where the merchants going 

north to Waag and Sokota, or south from these places 

and Wofila, to Wolduia and Yeshoo, generally assemble. 







[44] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



Quitting Deldei, they marched eastwai"d toward Wofila, 

and Lake Assanghe, in order that they might avoid Sokota, 

the Governor of which was stated to be a rude man ; and 

crossing the river Tarir, came to Endalke. This village 

belongs to Wofila, and is dependent upon the Governor of 

Waag. The road was intersected by rills and brooks. At 

a hamlet in Tantara, saw a man ploughing. They took the 

course more northerly in order to avoid the Raia Gallas. 

The road to Wofila was to the west of the Convent Sham- 

madoo Mariam. Road traversed hilly, but not rocky coun- 

try J and from the hills could see in the north north-west, 

the mountains of Lasta and the towering snowy peaks of 

Samen, like large towers. The hilly country of Lasta and 

Waag, as far as the eye could reach, exactly resembled the 

raging waves of the sea in a storm. Deldei is the boun- 

dary between the government of Waag and that of Djes- 

mady Paris. Waag is in the country of the Agows. Lasta 

is bounded south by Yeshoo, Wadela, and Angot ; west by 

Begemder ; north by Waag ; and east by Angot and the 

Raia Galla tribes. The principal towns of Wofila are 

Zelga, Bora, and Lake Assanghe. It is bounded north- 

east by Tigre. The Agows are different from all other 

Abyssinians. In Wofila, the country is better cultivated 

than in Waag and Angot. 



Pursuing their course northward, they reached Lat, a 

considerable village to the eastward, say east south-east, 

of which about eight to nine miles was the Lake Assanghe 

and village Wofila, near which and south-eastward of it 

was another but smaller lake. Lake Assanghe is sur- 

rounded by mountains. It is not so large as Lake Haik, 

and has no island in it. In the vicinity there are many 

villages. Zelga is due east of Lat. Leaving Lat they 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [45] 



traversed for a little the dry bed of a river which runs to 

the Tacazze, then only a few days' journey distant. They 

were still far from Antalow. Shortly after, they crossed 

another river, its course north north-west, bearing down 

in its bed a considerable body of water. From this cross- 

ing a mountain, they on the following day crossed the 

river Ghebia, another tributarv to the Tacazze. They 

then entered the district of Bora and passed the Shum- 

shato, a tributary to the Tacazze, and with much water in 

its bed. The banks of the river were adorned with beauti- 

ful trees. Still in the Agows country. Ascending as 

thev proceeded, they had a good view of the province of 

Waag, which is mountainous, resembling in this respect 

Geshen and Northern Shoa. It is susceptible of cultiva- 

tion, and could maintain a much larger number of people 

than it now does. It is every where intersected by deep 

dales, steep hills, and torrents. Sokota is the principal 

market. On the twentieth of April they crossed the river 

Tyana. It is a fine river, and carries much water in its 

bed, and is a tributary to the Tacazze. It separates 

Waag from the province of Enderta, formerly part of 

Tigre. Every spot on its banks is well cultivated. The 

climate of Waag is beautiful, healthy, and has a fine air. 

Enderta is low and rather flat. Pursuing their journey 

over a mountain, and through a thorny uncultivated coun- 

try, first north-east, and then turning westward and 

crossing the rivulet Gumato, they, after a long and fatigu- 

ing journey, entered Antalow, the capital of Enderta. 

This town is much decayed, and most of the houses had 

been ruined in the wars which had taken place with the 

neighbouring countries. When Salt visited it in 1805 and 

last in 1 809, it was the capital of the Ras Welled Salesse, 







[46] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



and of consequence a place of some importance, though 

even then it was not very large nor poj^ulous. Its situation, 

however, was commanding and fine. From Antalow, Mr. 

Krapf pursued his journey by Mount Taranta to Mas- 

sowah, at which place he embarked to proceed to Egypt. 



Having traced Mr. Krapf to Antalow, and in his jour- 

ney from Ankobar to that place, or by far the larger por- 

tion of it, through a country never before travelled over by 

any European, it becomes of some consequence to ascertain 

as near as possible the position of Antalow. Mr. Krapf's 

route from Lake Haik is in point of distance made good, 

and in bearings less easterly and more restricted than it is 

considered they might actually have been. From the 

strict letter of his narrative, Antalow should be a little 

more to the eastward and the northward, than the point 

where it is placed on the map. He himself states point- 

edly that the road to Antalow by Lake Assanghe would 

have been the nearest, thus indicating a more easterly posi- 

tion to the place. His last bearing, namely, proceeding 

west to Antalow, puzzles me, as it is seldom the guides so 

greatly overshoot their mark ; and it is by no means impro- 

bable that in this case the bearing has been reversed, and 

that his last journey to Antalow was to the east, and not to 

the west. If so, it would just place Antalow in a position 

where the road coming from the south by Lake Assanghe 

would have been the nearest to Antalow. In Salt's first 

voyage * the Latitude of Antalow from three observations 

is given 12° 48' north. In Salt's last voyage it is given 

13° 23' and the Longitude of Chilecut by observations of 

the Moon 39 33' east, but which he acknowledges was 



* Valentia, vol. iii. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [47] 



a doubtful observation, and gave the position too far to 

the west. In the midst of such discrepancies, there is no 

certainty nor safety, and therefore it becomes necessary 

to fix the point from bearings and distances which, as we 

are able to take and to check from various quarters, 

may be relied on as nearly correct, and which we are 

fortunately enabled to do in a satisfactory and convincing 

manner. 



Bruce places Dixan from actual observation in 40^^ 

7' east Longitude ; but which I have altered to 40° 2', tak- 

ing the Longitude of Massowah by Ruppel, the difference 

being the error of Bruce, if error it is, which I much ques- 

tion. From Dixan to Antalow, the journey of Salt was to 

the eastward of south, and their return, as also Mr. Krapf's 

route from Antalow to Dixan and Halai, was to the west- 

ward of north. Attagerat, Mr. Ruppel tells us, is only 

two and a half days' journey from the sea in the Bay of 

Amphila. This brings its position to the east of its pre- 

sent place. But the following shews still more clearly the 

eastern position of Antalow. When two days journey 

north of Chehcut, Mr. Krapf states that they were then 

only five days' journey from Bure on the coast of the Red 

Sea. The Ras of Abyssinia in a conversation he had with 

Mr. Salt about the best and nearest port to Antalow from 

which the trade with England and India could be opened 

up confirms this, when he stated that Bure was only four 

days' journey (messengers it is supposed) from Antalow 

with a good camel road, and wxll supplied with water. 

The vicinity of the sea-coast to Antalow is also clearly 

shewn by the observation which Salt and the other officers 

of the Embassy made in reply that they considered Belur 

or Biloul as more eligible on account of " the vicinity of 







[48] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



the place to his capital." * and we find that a messenger 

dispatched for the Chief of Bure, returned with him to 

Antalow in about ten days. When Pierce left Antalow, in 

order to escape from the service of the Ras, he travelled due 

south, and reached Wofila to the east of Lake Assanghe ; 

and as he makes no particular mention of crossing rivers in 

his route south, so it is clear he must have been, as he was, 

some distance to the east of Mr. Krapfs course going north. 

This further establishes the eastern, or rather the more eas- 

tern position of Antalow. About forty miles from Antalow, 

Pierce came to the province of Wojjerat ; sixteen miles more, 

to a plain inhabited by a portion of the Dobas ; fourteen 

miles more, to lyah, a town belonging to the Assubo Galla, 

and fourteen miles more (in time forty-two hours) toMocurra, 

one mile and a half from Lake Assanghe to the east. This 

distance gives not only the more eastern, but also the largest 

supposed northern point for the position of Antalow. 



When Mr. Krapf crossed the Tyana and other rivers, 

it was at the close of the dry season, when they were 

necessarily at the lowest ; consequently, the considerable 

quantity of water which was found in the beds of the 

Tyana and the Shumshato, shews that their sources must 

have been some distance to the eastward, and that Pierce 

must have passed them close to their sources, where they 

were such diminutive streams as not to be known or worth 

any particular notice. This view of the subject is not 

only borne out by Mr. Krapfs narrative, but corroborated 

by the route of Alvaraez in a wonderful degree. Corcora, 

from which he marched south-east, along " a goodly 

river " for six hours, this being in the rainy season, is 

one day's journey from the famous salt plain of Abyssinia, 

* Valentia, vol. iii. pp, 39, 40, &c. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [49] 



In his first day's journey from Corcora, he crossed a stu- 

pendous mountain, at the only point where it was passable, 

for a distance of sixtv miles. After this he reached the 

town of Manadele, certainly the Mantilli of Salt, south- 

east from Antalow. Manadele is situated in a cham- 

pagne country, six miles by two in extent, abounding in 

grain, which shews that it must be well watered. It is 

surrounded by very high mountains, and was then a 

place of great trade, being frequented by merchants from 

ever}' part of Abyssinia, Egypt, Greece, Arabia, Ormuz, 

India, and Adel. It was close to the countiy of the 

Dobas, but subject to Tigre. From Manadele, Alvaraez 

pursued his course to Defarfo, and thence travelling by the 

foot of the mountain of Ginnamora, from whence issued 

many small streams, he came to the river Sabalette, the 

boundary of Tigre in that quarter. His route by Mount 

Ginnamora was on its south-east side, the barrier and 

the division of the waters between the sources of the 

Tyana &c. flowing north-west, and the Sabalette and others 

flowing south-east. The positions of these places and 

rivers thus represented, give the distance from the western 

point of the Dobas to Assab fifteen days' journey, the time 

stated by Alvaraez, very correctly. 



From Lake Assanghe, Pearce pursued his journey 

westerly, passing to the east of the Lake, which is three 

days' journey in circuit, and called in the language of 

Tigre " Tsada Bahri," or White Sea, and to the west of 

the smaller lake, till he came to the village of Dafat, on 

the summit of Mount Dafat, where he rested for the night. 

Here he found the cold very keen, and hoar frost on the 

ground on the morning of October 1st. He then pur- 

sued his way west, about thirty-five miles, and came to the 



d 







[.50] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



village of Marzalla, near the sources of the Tacazze, called 

" am Tacazze," or the eyes of the Tacazze, which are half 

a day's journey east of Lalibela, or rather the place where 

Lalibela once stood, but which is now occupied by a vil- 

lage called Bobbala by Lefevre's informant. From the 

sources of the river, he followed the windings of the 

stream to Mukkine, a distance of about fifteen miles, 

eight hours. Here the river was thirty feet broad. From 

this place he travelled north by east to Sokota, the capital 

of Lasta, about half way from which, and west of his route 

near the Tacazze, was the high mountain of Salah-ferre. 

This place or mountain is eight miles east of the river, 

and Sokota ten. The language of the country is Amharic. 

Sokota is larger than Antalow, and about six days' journey 

distant from it. Soon after leaving Sokota, Mr. Pearce 

entered the country of Waag, and journeying three days 

northward along the banks of the river through the coun- 

try of Gualieu, inhabited by the Agows, to a point on the 

Tacazze, about thirty miles south of the town of Maisada 

in the district of Avei"gale. From Mukkine to this point, 

Pearce had not met with any river of importance running 

into the Tacazze, though he had crossed in the neighbour- 

hood of Mukkine many small streams and rivulets. On 

the 9th October he crossed the Tacazze, and entered the 

province of Samen. The river, where he crossed it, was 

three hundred yards broad. As the rainy season was, 

it may be said, over, I cannot help thinking that there is 

some mistake here about the breadth of the river, and that 

vards have been by mistake substituted for feet ; and even 

at this latter breadth, it is plain that some powerful tribu- 

taries must join it from the western side between Mukkine 

and this point, a distance of about fifty miles, and these 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [51] 



must be still more powerful, if the river is really 900 

feet broad. But this does not at all agree with its breadth 

near Maisada, as given by Mr. Salt, at fifty yards and 

three feet deep,* and still further down by Bruce 200 yards 

in the dry season. 



That the river Arequa, mentioned by Salt, is the bed of 

all the principal rivers crossed by Mr. Krapf between Sara- 

godel and Antalow is plain from this narrative of Pearce 

and the point where he crossed the Tacazze ; and that their 

junction takes place nearly in the places or points as placed 

in the map is obvious, not only from the direction of their 

currents where crossed, but from the testimony of an 

Abyssinian, who travelled from Antalow across the coun- 

try south-west to the country near the abodes of theEdjow 

Gallas. The first river that he came to on the route men- 

tioned was the Zimmera,t a very considerable stream, and 

clearly the Tyana of Krapf. It rises in the province of 

Wogerat, and enters the district of Boura, and then Salowa. 

Passing the village of Sakka, and crossing a mountain, the 

traveller came to a river called Tsalari, most probably the 

river Ghebia of Krapf, and some of its tributaries. Be- 

yond Sokota is Mount Jala, the Sala of Pearce, and which 

the Abyssinian stated was as high as Amba Hai, and with 

the same kind of vegetation on its summit. Beyond Mount 

Jala, or Sala-ferre, is the village and river of Gueralia, a 

tributarv to the Tacazze — then the river Mary, a west side 

tributary. Beyond Lalibela, or Bobbala, is the village of Dan- 

gobat ; and beyond it a considerable river called Cutchinaba, 

running among high mountains and passing several vil- 

lages. Going southerly, the country of the Edjow Gallas 

is reached. The Cutchinaba of the Abyssinian is no doubt 

* Salt, p. 254. t Geographical Bulletin, Paris ILMO. 



(I 2 







[52] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



the Tchevtz Chico of Krapf, which he states rises near the 

famous pass of that name, on the confines of Lasta and Be- 

gemder, and pm'suing a westerly course joins the Nile, be- 

tween Daunt and Begemder, that is to the south of Alata, 

and is most probably the same river that bears the name of 

the Alata at its junction with the Nile. Bruce, vol. iii. p. 

380, informs us that the Agows of Lasta are called Tchertz 

Agows, probably from living about the pass mentioned ; and 

at vol. v. p. 509, we learn that this pass was on the frontiers 

of Waag, or not far from these, perhaps the eastern pass, as 

there were two of them. One was on the frontier of Lasta.* 

The whole of the countries under immediate considera- 

tion are extremely hilly, but with numerous fertile valleys, 

the province of Enderta being chiefly low and particularly 

fertile. We have thus before us the celebrated river 

Tacazze, the Astobaras of the ancients, with its numerous 

and early tributaries, delineated in a manner it has 

never hitherto been done. Bruce pointedly stated that 

the Tacazze rose 200 miles south-east of Gondar, that 

its main stream came from Angot, and its other branch 

came from the frontiers of Begemder and Lasta, near Dam- 

buco and Lalibala. At the ford where he crossed it to 

the south of Sire, in Latitude 13° 42' 45" north, it was 

in the dry season 200 yards broad and three feet deep. 

We now find its sources to be w'here he had placed them, 

and its early course — that is the course of the western 

branch — Pearce from actual observation tells us that it is 

" northwesterly"t along the base of the Samen range. 

Bruce also stated, and Pearce found this to be the case, that 

the river before receiving the Angot branch the Arequa, 

or Tyana or Zimmera, that it runs between Lasta, Gualieu, 



* Bruce, vol. iv. p. 87. + Salt, p. •184. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [53] 



and Belessen. Between Antalow and Chelicut, Salt 

informs us there are two small streams.* The pros- 

pect from Antalow to the south is very fine. In a clear 

day they could see the high mountains Salowa and Boora, 

about twenty miles to the south. Salt states that 

"the river Arequa from the width of its bed and the body 

of water which it brings down," is the largest river be- 

tween the coast and the Tacazze.f It runs through the 

fine country of Avergale, and joins the Tacazze in the dis- 

trict of Temben. Waag is south of Avergale.J 



Nearly the w^hole surface of Abyssinia from north to 

south, and from east to west, is covered with vast moun- 

tains, great ranges and high hills, some of which are of 

very singular forms. From these flow in all directions 

numerous rills, rivulets, streams, and rivers ; many of the 

latter of considerable magnitude, and nearly all of which 

flow to form the Bahar-el-Azreck, or Blue River, or the Nile. 

All the mountains are very high, and several of them 

remarkably so. The peak of Samen, called Amba Hai, is 

calculated to be 14,000 feet above the level of the sea ; 

but as snow lies perpetually on its summit, it must be at 

least 2000 feet higher before the snow can lay perpetually 

in that low latitude 1 .3" from the Equator. Taranta con- 

siderably exceeds 10,000 feet. The mountains in Lasta, 

Angot, and Northern Shoa, where frost, hail, and snow are 

often found, must be of a comparative elevation, and proba- 

bly exceed 12,000 feet. Bruce calculated the height of the 

fountains of the Nile at two miles 10,340 feet, and 

Mount Amid above these half a mile 2,585 feet more ; and 

yet he adds that hail, but no snow, was frequently seen 

on them. In KafFa the mountains rise above the limits of 

* Salt, p. 347. + lb. p. 350. t lb. P- 279, &c. 







[54] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



snow, and we have the authority of Ptolemy to state, that 

the mountains around the sources of the Bahr-el-Abiad, al- 

most under the Equinoctial, are also covered with snow. 

Abyssinia is altogether a most extraordinary country, and 

has undergone many and extraordinary revolutions. But 

it has been so well described by Bruce, and latterly by 

other travellers, that it is considered unnecessary to go 

into minute details here, except to advert to the mere geo- 

graphical points and positions, which it is necessary to 

bring under review. Toward the north-west, only where 

it approaches the plain of Senaar and the junction of the 

Tacazze with the Nile, can the country he called flat. Where 

the Blue River approaches Fazuclo it bursts through the 

stupendous chain of mountains on either hand as if it was 

issuing through a door. The scenery must be very grand. 

There is one cataract here 280 feet high, and below it two 

others, but of a much less height. From hence to Senaar, 

and indeed to Khartoum, the course of the river is smooth. 

The climate around Fazuclo is most delicious. The present 

Viceroy of Egypt was there in the summer of 1839, and 

he states, that though then considerably above seventy 

years of age, the climate was so enlivening as to bring him 

back to the age of twenty five ! At this place he has built a 

city, and given it his own name ; and there can be no doubt 

that from its position it will soon rise into importance. The 

Shangalla or Negro tribes have encroached greatly on Abys- 

sinnia in the west, north-west, and north, as the Gallas 

have done on the south-west, south, and south-east ; and 

all these tribes have carried ignorance, idleness, desolation, 

violence, misery, and poverty wherever they have come. 



The village and halting-place of Halai on the summit 

of Mount Taranta is, according to Ruppell, situated in 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [55] 



14" 59' 37" North Latitude, 8093 French feet above the 

level of the sea ; and Takheragera on the frontiers of Waag 

and Salowa in 13" 39' 22" North Latitude. Salt* has a re- 

markable expression, namely, that on the " eastward side of 

the Tacazze in this Latitude rises the lofty province of Sa- 

men," which would indicate that part of Samen is on the 

east side of that river, unless the word " eastward" has 

been substituted for " westward." Samen is a particularly 

mountainous country ; so is Belessen, to the north of which 

is Lamalmon, on the summits of which ice is found, which 

gives this mountain a great elevation. Attagerat, the 

capital of Agame, is 7675 French feet above the level of 

the sea, and Takheragera 5955. The waters between 

Halai and Attagerat, and also a little southward of the latter 

place, run to the Red Sea. The river Geba when Ruppell 

crossed it was twenty feet broad, and on an average two 

feet deep. The bed of the Tacazze he calculated to be 

2812 French feet above the level of the sea. Entschetgab 

he places on 13° 6' 19'' North Latitude and 38° 19' 29" 

East Longitude from Greenwich, and the elevation 9,713 

French feet above the level of the sea. 



Massowa he places in 39" 29' 24" Longitude east of 

Greenwich, and Latitude 15° 36'. Bruce places it on 39" 

36' 30" east longitude and 15° 35' 8", and the position given 

to it by Bruce is probably nearest the truth. There is a 

remarkable discrepancy between Ruppell, Bruce, and Salt 

about the rivers near Adowa and Axum. The former says 

they run from north to south, and the latter two gentle- 

men, who also saw them, state that they run from south 

to north. I have followed Ruppell in placing them in 

the Map. According to Salt, the coast of the Red Sea 



• Salt, p. 490. 







[56] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIK. 



from Rachmah to Ras Hassar lies flat and low, and is 

bounded by higb mountains at no great distance.* The 

Bay of Amphila extends sixteen miles on the coast, and is 

about twelve miles deep. At the bottom of the bay there 

are two villages, Madir and Durora; the latter the largest. 

The range of mountains are about fifteen miles distant. 

These run north-west and south-east, and immediately 

beyond this is a still loftier chain, extending from Senafe 

to Taranta. Senafe properly signifies boundary, and is some 

times written Senaa. The road from Amphila Bay is nearly 

west, and three days' journey brings the traveller to the 

edge of the Salt plain, which runs in a north-east to a 

south-west direction, and is four days' journey in length. 

It takes five hours to cross it at this point, when the travel- 

ler comes to Durwa, the first village within the territory 

of the Ras, Hence passing the village of Dafa, and a 

fine plain, the highest range of mountains is reached, 

called here Senafe, and which is as high as Taranta. The 

journey from Amphila is a journey of nine days. The 

road west from Amphila is supplied with water. 



From Arkeeko to Aylat in a direct line is about twenty 

miles west. Near this place is the source of a river, 

which at some distance west joins the river springing near 

Bisan and Dobarwa, and according to Mr. L'Abadie f forms 

the river A'nsaba, which runs northerly to the Red Sea at 

Taka, two days' journey to the south of Souakem. This 

is a new feature in the geography of this part of Africa, 

and is extremely probable. Burkhardt states that the 

mountains of Langay are considerably elevated ; that he 

found streams and rivulets descending from them to the 



* Salt, p. 140. t Geographical Bulletin, Paris, Sept. 1842. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [57] 



eastward and north-eastward ; that the scenery was 

very beautiful, and the cUmate reminded him of that on 

Mount Lebanon. The small district of Taka, three days' 

journey in length, and one day's journey in breadth, 

(other accounts say double) is exceedingly fertile. It is 

greatly and deeply flooded by the Mareb when swollen by 

the rains, and hence its great fertility. The pass of Ta- 

ranta is south by compass from Massowa, when the varia- 

tion was 14° west, and the highest part of the mountain 

is to the south and east of the pass. Dixan is at the 

foot of the mountain on its west side, and only about 

three geographical miles in a direct line from Halai. From 

Halai, Bruce could distinguish the sea to the north- 

east. The descent to the sea is exceedingly precipi- 

tous. From Dixan to Antalow, Salt on his first journey 

was fifteen days. The course was to the eastward of 

south. 



Shoa with some adjacent provinces, now under the con- 

trovd of the independent Gallas, formerly formed part of 

the Abyssinian empire, and in the days of the strength and 

extent of that empire, the Sovereigns thereof resided in 

the southern parts, and for a considerable time at Tegulet, 

and other residences in Southern Shoa. But Shoa be- 

came independent of the Sovereigns of Abyssinia sub- 

sequent to the confusion which ensued after the fearful 

desolation spread over that empire by the Mahomedans 

under Mahomed Gragne, and the early irruptions of the 

Gallas, who spread ruin among both. Shoa was also 

considerably straitened in its dominions by these bar- 

barians. Mr. Krapf has pretty accurately defined its 

modern boundaries ; so much so, that with the assistance 

of the ]Map, it is considered unnecessary to enlarge upon 

d5 







[58] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



that subject in this place. The boundaries and extent of 

the provinces of Abyssinia which now belong to it, and 

which are best defined, are as follows : 



Tigre in its greatest extent from Dobarwa southward, is 

about 200 miles from north to south, and 120 miles 

from east to west. Its eastern boundary is the high 

land, which separates the waters which flow east into the 

Red Sea from those which flow west into the Tacazze. 

On the south it is bounded by Angot and Lasta, and on 

the west by part of Begemder, and next by Samen, and 

then by Sire, and on the north by Shangalla and Arab 

tribes. Amhara is 120 miles from east to west, sixty 

miles from north to south, and is bounded on the south 

by Walaka and the Woolla Galla; on the east by Geshen 

or Yeshen, and Lasta ; on the north by Begemder ; and on 

the west by the Nile. Begemder excluding Lasta is 1 20 

miles from east to west, and sixty to seventy miles from 

north to south, bounded east by Lasta and part of Gualieu, 

south by Amhara, west by the Nile and part of Lake 

Dembea, and north by Belessen, and a part of Samen. 

Samen eighty to ninety miles from north to south, and 

about forty to fifty from east to west, is bounded east by 

Lasta, Waag, and Tigre ; north by Tigre and Sire ; 

west by Lamalmon and Belessen, and south by part 

of Lasta and Belessen. Gondar is a province to the north- 

ward, as Dembea is to the westward of Lake Tzana or 

Dembea. Maitsha is a province south of the Lake, ex- 

tending from the Nile on the east, to the Nile on the 

west, and bounded south by Goutto, the province about 

the sources of the Nile, and Gojam more to the east. Gojam 

is bounded bv Maitsha, and Mount Amid Amid on the 

north, by the Nile on the east and the south, and by 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [59] 



Daraot on the west. It stretches westward on the Nile 

to Hades Amba and near the passage that proceeds 

over the Nile to Gooderoo. Damot is bounded east by 

Gojam, south by the Nile, east by undefined Abysinian 

and Galla territories, and north by Goutto. Bure is its 

capital. In former times Damot extended across the Nile 

to the northern frontier of Enarea, when that province 

formed part of the Abyssinian empire. Westward of 

Dembea, is Kuara, and next to it, and northward, is 

Ras el Feel, the boundaries of either of which to the 

westward and south-east, as well as to the north, 

cannot be accurately defined. 



Gojam and Damot abound in cattle, and were at one 

time well cultivated and productive. The province of 

Lasta, which once formed part of Begemder, is exceed- 

ingly mountainous, and the cold thereon very great ; so 

much so, that most of the army of the Abyssinian King 

FaciUdas, perished when there by its severity, even in the 

month of March, when he went to attack the inhabitants 

who had revolted. He defeated them near Lebo. Beles- 

sen is throughout exceedingly mountainous. Wechne 

is about thirty- five miles from Emfras, and is one of 

the state prisons appointed for the Royal Family. Gafat 

is not a continued country, but a set of scattered villages. 

Wumburna or Umburna is one of them. Senasse is the 

capital of the Gongas, and is situated to the north of the 

Nile ; but the tribe inhabit both banks. In this district, 

in the east, is the passage of the Nile at Mine, (the word 

means passage), on the western route to Enarea, and 

below it is the famous cataract in the Nile, 280 feet high. 

Both are in the country of the Gongas. Below them on 

both sides of the Nile are the Nuba. Amoro is to the 







[60] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



south of the Nile, called also Amoro Jidda, from a Galla 

tribe of that name. 



But quitting this portion of the countiy, it is necessary, 

in elucidation of the Map and the subject, to turn to the 

south, in order to make a few remarks and observations. 

The cataract of Alata is forty feet high, and at all times, 

more especially during the rainy season, it is a magnificent 

sight. The Nile, in approaching it, runs confined between 

two banks, in a deep trough, roaring over its bed with 

impetuous velocity. When Bruce saw it, the stream 

was increased from the rains, and was then half an Eng- 

lish mile in breadth. The river was nevertheless clear. 

No crocodiles are to be found above the cataract. A 

brisk stream called Mariam Ohha, runs to the Nile, a little 

below the village of Alata. This stream comes from 

Begemder, and is the Tchertz Chico of Krapf, already 

alluded to. A great number of rivers join Lake Dembea, 

from the hilly regions in the east, the north, and the 

west. The Nile itself is a considerable liver before it joins 

the Lake. It has, on both sides, from its sources, down- 

wards, several considerable tributaries, especially the 

Jimma on the east, and the Assar on the west. This 

latter was as large as the Nile, and when Bruce crossed 

it in the dry season, he found it 1 70 yards broad, and 

two feet deep. The country to the southward of the 

sources of the Nile, included in that large circle, which 

the river makes, is, exclusive of the very high mountains 

with which it is covered, very elevated land, and gives 

birth to innumerable springs and rivulets, which in a 

short sjface form considerable rivers. The western passage 

of the Nile to Enarea is at a place called Mine, which in 

fact means passage, and it is the opinion of the writer that 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [61] 



it is not so far west as it has been represented to be. He 

grounds this opinion on the statement made by Bruce,* 

that it is not far from Hades Amba, which is in Gojam. 

Near this latter place is the passage of the Nile, on the 

route by the east side of Lake Dembea and Basso to Good- 

eroo and Enarea. Both roads to Enarea, but especially 

that from Mine, are mountainous. The distance from Mine 

to Enarea, or the capital Sakka, is fifty leagues, according 

to Bruce, and due south ; the distance, thirteen days 

journey, viz : seven days to Gonea, and six from Gonea 

to the capital. Before reaching Gonea, the traveller crosses 

a very high mountain. The distance here given is checked 

bv the distance given by the Gooderoo route, from repeat- 

ed and quite different authorities, and both agree in a 

surprising manner as to the position of the capital of 

Enarea. 



Immediately adjoining the Nile on its south bank is 

the country called Bezamo, inhabited by the Boren and 

the Bestumo Gallas. Formerly the province of Damot ex- 

tended across the Nile southward to the confines of 

Enarea ; but since the conquests by the Galla, Damot is 

now confined to the north bank of the Nile. The pro- 

vince of Enarea proper is on all sides surrounded with 

high mountains, especially to the south and the west ; 

those to the south in Caffa rising above the limits of 

snow. The province is an elevated Plateau, watered by 

many considerable streams, wet and marshy, but fertile, 

especially in coffee of a superior quality. The river Zebee 

runs through it, and is formed by several large branches 

rising to the north-west, particularly the Omo and the 

Gojob. The ridges and hills in this quarter are evidently 



* Brute, vol. v. p. 5-t. 







[G2] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



and generally calcareous, and hence the colour of the 

Zebee from the sands it brings down, and running over 

white calcareous rocks, which makes the water resemble 

melted butter. The population of Enarea and Kaffa are 

generally Christian, but of late years have become intermixed 

with Mahomedans and Pagans. These provinces formed 

the most southern and western provinces of the Abyssinian 

Empire in the days of its greatest strength ; and had, as 

has been stated, an intercourse with the coasts of the At- 

lantic, by means of regular trading stations through the 

interior. KafFa, or CafFa, lies south-west from Enarea, 

and beyond it is Limmou, lately brought to the knowledge 

of the Europeans by a native of it (Bull. Geo. Society, Paris, 

July 1839), who was lately in Paris. In fact, it is stated, 

and perhaps truly stated, that Limmou is only part of 

Enarea in its most extended sense. Be this as it may, 

however, the fact is, that the river Habahia and its early 

tributaries, which rise to the westward of Kaffa, run to 

the southward, and, as we shall see by and by, most proba- 

bly form the parent streams of the Bahr-el-Abiad, al- 

though Ptolemy's account, perhaps, after all, that which 

is most to be relied on, indicates that it is not so. The 

nearest way to Enarea from Gojam is by Gooderoo. 

There is also another route much frequented from Enarea 

to Rogie in Shoa, and thence to Ankobar and AngoUalla. 

The road by Gooderoo takes thirty days to travel at the 

rate of about nine miles per day made good. 



Limmou is wholly peopled by Gallas, who are a brave 

race of men with agreeable countenances. Their arms 

are a corset and crooked sabre, a lance, &c., in the forms 

resembling the representations of those which are found 

in the ancient monuments of Egypt and Nubia. This is 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [63] 



curious and interesting. To the west and north-west of 

the districts composing Limmou are the Shangalla or Ne- 

groes, quite a different race from the Gallas. It has already 

been stated, that many of the Gallas are of a fair complexion. 

The Geographical Bulletin of Paris, 1840, p. 374, 

states from information lately received concerning them, 

that among them are many whites with agreeable coun- 

tenances ; and that the females are generally pretty. Bruce 

also states,* that nearly under the line and south of Abys- 

sinian and black tribes, all the people are white, as we, says 

he, have had an opportunity of seeing the Gallas daily, whom 

we have described. They are partly Mahomedans, and 

marry according to Mahomedan rites. Their acquaintance 

with Mahomedans probably first proceeded from the shores 

of the Indian Ocean. Native travellers state most pointedly, 

that the river Gibbie or Gebo flows north to the Nile ; that 

it is a large deep stream, full of crocodiles ; that it rises 

in the mountains to the southward of Shoa, or in mountains 

called Abeze Gaye, to the north of Gingiro, and passes 

near Tchallia, two days' journey to the north of the confines 

of Narea or Enarea. Others, however, state that they 

pass it, or a branch of it, in the route from Gooderoo to 

Enarea, according as it has been placed on the ]lap. 



From a very early period of history, even I believe as 

early as the days of Herodotus, it has been stated, that in 

Africa, to the south of Enarea, and near the equator, there 

is a country inhabited by pigmies, or a diminutive race of 

men. Late accounts received from the east coast of Africa 

assert that such a people have actually been found in nearly 

the position mentioned, and bordering on a river most pro- 

bably the Quillimancy or an early tributary. The Arab wri- 

* Vol. vi. p. 400. 







[64] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



ters of the twelfth and thirteenth century make mention 

of this race of men, and state that they inhabited a comi- 

try in the part of Africa alluded to, and dwelt by a river 

called the river of Pigmies, which river they assert was 

formed by two rivers which rose on the eastern side of the 

mountains of the moon, (the Bahr-el-abiad, rising on the 

west side of the chain) and after considerable courses be- 

come united in one under the name of the river of the 

pigmies. Though clothed in Arabic and oriental phrase- 

ology, the account when sobered down to geographical 

accuracy, may after all not be far from the truth. Can 

the junction of the Quillimancy with a river rising to 

the south of Andak be the river mentioned, or rather 

alluded to ? 



Every geographer who has written on the east coast of 

Africa, especially the Portuguese, places a large river enter- 

ing the Indian Ocean, near Magadoxo. Abulfeda, an ac- 

curate writer, particularly mentions it, and states that it 

overflowed like the Nile ; and that it had a long course 

rising, according to the Arabian mode of stating such 

things, in the lake Kuara or Dembea, the source of the 

Egyptian Nile. The Bombay Times of July 1842, 

announces, upon the authority of accounts received from 

Captain Harris, the Ambassador at Shoa, that such a river 

does enter the Indian Ocean in latitude two degrees north, 

that it goes by different names, and among others is 

called the Bargama, or Bahar Gama, in which we clearly 

recognize the country of Bahargama, or Bergamo of Bruce 

to the eastward, and southward of Gurague, the sources no 

doubt of the great river mentioned. This river is said to 

be of great magnitude at its mouth, to have a long navi- 

gable course of several hundred miles, and to rise in moun- 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [65] 



tains to the north of the Line. It goes also by the name 

of Goolob. This is curious and important. 



But not the least important — if it may not in reality be 

stated to be the most important — poi-tion of modern discov- 

eries in Africa remains to be noticed. This is the expedi- 

tion directed by the present enlightened and enterprising 

Viceroy of Egypt, at the close of 1839, to explore the 

course of the Bahr-el-abiad, or White River, long known to 

be the chief branch of the Egyptian Nile. The expedition 

started from Khartoum in December 1839, soon after the 

commencement of the dry season. It consisted of three 

or four sailing barques and some small canoes or passage 

boats, commanded by intelligent officers, and accompanied 

by 400 men from the Garrison of Senaar, They have ex- 

ecuted their commission well. An official abstract of their 

voyage was in the hands of the writer of this Memoir in the 

autumn of 1840, and the whole official journal is now before 

him from the Geographical Bulletin of Paris of July, August, 

and September of last year. It is very curious, very inter- 

ing, and very important. Every day's proceedings are 

noted with care ; the breadth, depth, and current of the 

river ; the temperature and the names of the tribes inhab- 

iting the banks, and the appearance of the country around 

as they proceeded. Their chief object — the exploration of 

the main stream to its utmost point — was steadily and only 

kept in view, and only one affluent, a large stream, was ex- 

plored to a considerable distance. Few other affluents 

were noticed or attended to, and such also might readily 

and easily escape their notice, because they scarcely ever 

went ashore, and when they did so, went but a short dis- 

tance ; and the banks on both sides being covered with 

trees, and these not onlv down to, but sometimes even into 







[66'] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR, 



the stream, covered with thickets and bushes, the entrance 

of affluents, unless of very great magnitude, as in the case 

of the one referred to, might easily escape their notice. 

Throughout the whole voyage, they perceived no mountains 

or ranges in sight on either side, and but very few hills, 

and these disjointed (see Map) and of no great magnitude 

or importance. Numerous lakes and ponds were found on 

both banks as they advanced upwards in the southern 

bearing of the river, the remains no doubt of the inunda- 

tion of the river during the rains. 



The distance that the expedition advanced on the river 

south from Khartoum was, including windings, nearly 1 300 

geographical mile's, after which, in latitude 3° 31' north, 

and in longitude ST east of Greenwich, the river separated 

into two branches ; the one, the smaller, coming from the 

west, and the other, the larger, coming from the east. In 

small canoes a party went up the western branch for a few 

miles, chiefly to ascertain that it continued a separate 

stream, which having done, they returned, finding it inca- 

pable of being navigated in their vessels. Where they left 

it, the stream was about sixty feet broad, nine to twelve 

feet deep, and current one mile per hour. The eastern 

branch they ascended in the barques to the latitude of 3° 

22' north, when the water ebbed to three feet, though the 

breadth was nearly 1 300 feet, and the current half a mile 

per hour. They could not venture to proceed any further, 

and accordingly turned back, and descending the stream 

they again came to the Bahar Seboth or Red River, so 

called from the colour of the water, which they explored 

to a distance of about 145 miles, in a direct line, when 

the water ebbing to only three feet, they were compelled 

to turn back, though the breadth was still about 1 100 feet, 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [67] 



with a current of half a mile per hour. This river comes 

from a district called Mekj-edah. From this point they 

descended the rivers to Khartoum, which place they again 

reached at the end of 135 days. 



It is necessary to bear in mind that the magnitude of 

the river and its branches here given, was their magnitude 

in the height and at the very close of the dry season. The 

river, to use the words of the commander of the expedi- 

tion, " runs winding (serpente) through the plains of Sou- 

dan." For a considerable distance above Khartoum (150 

miles) the breadth of the river was about one and a half 

mile, the depth from four to five fathoms, and the cm-rent 

about half a knot per hour. The breadth afterward de- 

creased to about half a mile, the depth from twelve to 

eighteen feet, and the current a knot to a knot and a fifth 

per hour. Beyond lake Couir the depth gradually dimin- 

ished, as also the breadth running from one-fifth to half a 

mile, but the current one mile and a half per hour, though 

the dry season was increasing in intensity. Several con- 

siderable islands were found in the river from Khartoum 

upwards to the confines of Shillook, especially one called 

Habah, at the commencement of their territory on the west 

side. The banks of the river from Khartoum upwards to 

nearly lake Couir, were generally low, which will account 

for the overflowing of the river, and its wide extent, as is 

reported during the inundation. Ascending upwards, the 

banks became more elevated ; but still not so much so as to 

prevent them being overflowed, and hence the numbers of 

lakes and ponds on either hand, which were found remain- 

ing, doubtless the remains of the inundation. The banks 

of the Bahar Seboth, or, as it is called in the Shillook lan- 

guage, Bahar Telhj, are however of considerable elevation 







[68] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



as far as explored, rising, and generally perpendicular, to 

the height of from twenty to thirty feet, which will reach 

above the height of the inundation, and prevent the country 

around from being overflowed. The whole country from 

Khartoum upwards is a table land of very considerable 

elevation, and the view on all sides exceedingly picturesque 

and beautiful. The numerous and considerable tribes which 

were found on the banks are particularly noticed in their 

relative positions on the Map. Of these the Shillooks, the 

Denkhahs, and the Kyks and Nuviers, are the most pow- 

erful and important. Hippopotami and crocodiles were 

numerous in the stream ; and cattle, sheep, goats, and asses, 

were everywhere numerous on either bank. The country 

was studded with fine trees as they ascended, and in proof 

of the elevation of the country above the level of the sea, 

it may be observed, that around the bifurcation the trees 

and foliage were the trees and foliage of an European cli- 

mate ; while to shield themselves from the effects of the 

cold during the night, the inhabitants sleep among warm 

ashes. The bed of the river is throughout sand, and hence 

the colour given to the stream, especially when it is in 

flood, is white and turbid. The gulf or lake Couir must be 

of a considerable size, as they were a day and a half look- 

ing about it without any definite result or description. 

Lower down there is on the west side a chain of lakes 

which, from the description of them, the writer takes to 

be the outlet of the Bahar-el-Nahal, not Nahas. Accord- 

ing to Linant, three rivers enter the Bahr-el-abiad from 

the west, and in the country of the Shillooks. The first is 

the Ned-el-Nile, which passes near by Gebel-el-Deir, or the 

mountain of the round, situated in the country of Taggala 

or Tuclavi. The second is the Bahar-el-Adda, which rises 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [69] 



to the west of Tubeldie, flows to the south of Sheibon, and 

enters the Nile in about 12'^ north latitude. The third is 

the Baher-el-Nahal, which we recognize as the river coming 

from the country of Dar-el-Nahas, near the copper mines, 

and which is subsequently joined by the Bahar Taisha at 

Tenderne, in the province of Cusne, where palm trees are 

veiy abundant. The Arabs place a river coming from the 

south-west and entering lake Couir or Tume ; but the name 

is not given. The tribe of Bhours, near the bifurcation 

and on the east bank, are of a copper colour ; and in the 

house of their Chief Indian goods were found. To the 

south of the bifurcation they were told that there was a 

veiy high mountain, with an extreme and well-cultivated 

plateau on its summit. The diminished size of the western 

branch clearly indicates that the high land which gives it 

birth is at no great distance. The population on the banks, 

though surprised at the sight of the fleet, as it may be 

called, ofi'ered no resistance the moment the real object of 

the expedition was made known to them. The Kyks, how- 

ever, were warlike and more suspicious, and considering 

that it might form a slave expedition, assembled and 

ofi'ered resistance. A few troops landed, and soon scattered 

them, with the loss of a few killed and wounded ; and after 

this, all was peace and submission. The chiefs of the ex- 

pedition gave out that they were messengers sent from 

heaven, which the simple people believed, and thereafter 

submissively and abundantly supplied all their wants. Their 

various tribes are frequently at war with each other. These 

quarrels generally originate about pasturages and boun- 

daries. 



It is considered unnecessary to dwell longer on this im- 

portant expedition of discovery, the most important n a 







[70] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



geographical point of view that has occurred in modern 

times. To Mahomed Ali the glory of this discovery is 

due, the results of which cannot fail to be highly advan- 

tageous to the human race, especially to the long neglected 

population and country of Africa. But it would be unjust 

to pass over without noticing the names of the commanders 

of this expedition, who have so faithfully and so well obeyed 

the commands and executed the orders of their sovereign. 

These are Captain Selim, the head officer ; Sulieman 

Kachef; Rustam Sacolassy ; Ibrahim EfFendi ; Fez Houl- 

lah ; Hiuss-Bachi ; Abdorem Ragoul, and Assad Allah. 

These men deserve well of their country. They have a 

sovereign who can appreciate their services, and that won- 

derful man is about to send steamers up the river which 

we have described. It was a wonder and an era to see steam- 

ers crossing the Atlantic ; but what will it be to see them 

stemming the waters of the Nile almost to the equator, 

and walking as it were over the mountains of the moon, 

so liberally fixed in this portion of Africa by incredulous 

and " conjectural geographers." * 



An inspection of the Map will show the reader the great 

importance of the discovery, or rather rectification of the 

geography of Africa in these parts, and also show the 

great accuracy with which Ptolemy delineated its general 

features. It is true that he carried the heads of the 

branches of the White River eight degrees too far south ; 



* Another voyage has been performed up the White River in 1841 and 

1842. Two French Gentlemen accompanied this expedition. In their 

notes and map by M. Jomard, they give the remarkable bend of the 

river in nearly the parallel of 9 degrees Latitude. This is not indicated in 

the official account of the first voyage, and their notes are not quite clear 

and explicit on the subject. But nevertheless, though I have some doubts 

on the subject, I have adopted their delineation of this part of the River. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [71] 



but in this he was doubtless misled by giving, as others 

have done after him, and yet do, too great a distance to 

days' journeys, and being without any other mode of mea- 

surement or information from the opposite side to check 

the reckoning. But he has preserved the relative distances 

very accurately. Thus he says, the Blue River, or Astapus, 

rises in lake Coloe or Dembea, situated in 69o east longi- 

tude, and under the equator. The western branch of the 

White River, he says, springs from a lake in 57° east lon- 

gitude and 6° south latitude ; and the eastern from another 

lake in east longitude 65°, and in south latitude 7° ; and 

these unite in south latitude 2°, and east longitude 62° the 

(Greek,) or 60° Latin translation ; that is, in the one case 2° 

to the east of the meridian of Alexandria, and in the other 

on that meridian. The reader has only to inspect the Map 

to perceive how accurately all the relative positions as to 

the sources of the two great branches of the Nile, and the 

distances from them and the position of the united stream 

of the Bahr-el-abiad as regards its bearing from Egypt, are 

preserved. Finding this ancient geographer so accu- 

rate in his comparative delineation as to distances, we may 

safely place reliance on his accounts regarding the surface of 

the country around the sources of that river which he con- 

sidered the real Nile. He states, that it is very moun- 

tainous, and that these mountains were covered with 

snow. Bruce in a great measure corroborates this 

when he states that the mountains of KafFa to the south of 

Enarea are covered with snow.* That acute and intelligent 

traveller states most pointedly in his notes, written in Af- 

rica and on the banks of the Bahr-el-abiad, 'that that stream 

"rose in the country to ^/ie^owM of Enarea." The Habahia, 

* Bruce, vol. vii. p. 105. 







[72] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



the earh' source and course of which we know, runs where 

he states the Bahr-el-abiad rises. An inspection of the 

Map will show that the Habahia may be the source of the 

Nile. The colour of the water being white would serve to 

confirm this opinion, as drawing its supplies from similar 

calcareous ridges ; as the Zebee of a like colour, and from 

the cause mentioned, actually does. It is left to future dis- 

covery and to the geographical reader to decide whether 

Bruce or Ptolemy is most correct ; but hazarding an opinion, 

I would say that both are right, that the Habahia is one 

branch of the Bahr-el-abiad, while Ptolemy considered 

that the branch rising furthest to the south had the un- 

doubted claim to be considered the parent stream. 



The elevation of the bed of the Tacazze, and that of the 

Abawi above the level of the sea, have been given ; the 

former from Ruppell, and the latter from Dr. Beke ;* 

but it would appear that thev are under some mistake, 

Bruce estimated that the sources of the Abawi were 10,340 

feet above the level of the sea ; and if so there are certainly 

neither cataracts nor rapids in the stream of the Abawi 

from its sources to the point where Dr. Beke first crossed it 

to account for 7340 feet, the difi'erence of elevation in the 

comparative short space of 250 miles. Bruce also calcu- 

lated that the plain of Senaar was about 5000 feet above 



* See p. 35. Lake Dembea, or Zana, is 5732 French feet above the 

level of the sea, and Gondar according to Ruppell 1232 French feet above 

the level of the Lake. The diflference of the level of the Abawi near the 

juuction of the Djirama and the Ford of Fiiri is, according to Dr. 

Beke, 100 feet. Considering the elevation of Lake Zana, as given by 

Ruppell, the bed of the Abaw near its junction with the Djimma must be 

higher than Dr. Beke has made it ; while the descent which the Nile has 

from Lake Zana to Senaar (cataracts included) would give an elevation 

to the plain of Senaar to the extent stated bj' Bruce. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOITw [73] 



the level of the sea. In this elevation he seems to be 

borne out by all but unerring guides. Though it was the 

hottest period of the year when he was at Senaar, yet he 

felt it cool, even when fully clothed, and could walkabout in 

the sun without inconvenience. This indicates a very con- 

siderable elevation. This is also confirmed by the account 

which Mahoraed Ali gives of the climate of Fazuclo, 

namely, that the air was exceedingly pure and bracing. 

The elevation of Fazuclo above Senaar cannot be much, 

because the Nile between the one place and the other has 

a placid and easy current. The climate also which the 

Egyptian officers found at the bifurcation of the Bahar-el- 

Abiad, coupled with the extreme gentleness of the cur- 

rent of that stream, all indicate a very considerable eleva- 

tion of every part from the junction of the Blue and the 

White Rivers inclusive, upwards or southwards. Browne's 

meteorological observations at Darfur shew us that Cobbe, 

the capital of that country, must be an elevated place ; for 

during the months of January and February, the thermo- 

meter during the day ranged from 50,^ to 60o, and was at 

times as low as 49° in the middle of the day. Bruce was 

also told at Senaar that to the south or south-west of Cobbe, 

snow was to be seen on the mountains. All these facts 

point out that this interior part of eastern Africa must be 

very elevated, and that the Nile to the Mediterranean must 

have a greater descent from Abyssinia than the observations 

of Dr. Ruppell and Dr. Beke would give it. The bed of 

the Tacazze, at the point in Samen where it turns west, is, 

according to Dr. Ruppell, 2812 French feet above the level 

of the sea. From that point to its junction with the Nile, 

200 miles below Khartoum — the latter place 150 below 

Senaar — is about 500 miles, and without either rapids 



e 







[74] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR, 



cataracts, or any very rapid current. The elevation of the 

Abawi, where Dr. Beke crossed it, is, he states, in round 

numbers 3000 English feet. From that point to Senaar 

is fully 400 miles, in which space the river has at least 400 

feet of cataracts, with a considerable velocity in the current. 

From Senaar to Khartoum is 150 miles, and from Khartoum 

to the junction with the Tacazze about 200 miles more, in 

all 750 miles. From these facts alone, it is clear that either 

Dr. Beke or Dr. Ruppel are wrong in their calculations. 

The difference between them, as applied to the elevation of 

the bed of the Nile, cannot be less than 2500 feet. 



The correction of the geography of the course of the 

Bahr-el-Abiad places before us other results equally im- 

portant. It discloses to our view the course and the 

sources of the great river Zaire or Congo, with something 

like an adequate space for the formation of a river of that 

great magnitude which the Zaire is known to be ; and it en- 

ables us to apply with accuracy the accounts which have 

been received with regard to the country called Donga, and 

the river or rivers of Bahr Kulla, and the Vallis Garaman- 

tica of Ptolemy, which have hitherto been so strangely per- 

vei"ted and attempted to be applied in a manner which 

shewed plainly that the application was incorrect. 



Darfur, or rather the capital thereof, Cobbe, is, accor- 

ding to Browne, in I4o 10' north latitude, and 28° 8' 

east longitude. It is an elevated country. To the south 

it is very fertile, and called Said, like the productive southern 

provinces of Egypt, To the south-west and west the 

country becomes very mountainous ; and from no important 

rivers being found among them, we collect that the ele- 

vation is above the level from whence the springs which 

form rivers usually flow. Beyond Dar Ruma west, however, 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [75] 



as the country descends to the kingdom of Dar Saley, 

rivers become numerous, and so also to the south and south- 

west in the latter direction, as Donga and Dar Kulla are 

approached. The distance to Donga and Bahr Kulla from 

Cobbe is stated to be from 40 to 60 days' journey, in a 

bearing south-west, or about south-west by south. Donga 

is 20 days' journey, about east- south- east from the southern 

extremity of the empire of Bornou, and ten days' journey 

from Abou Telfain on the southern frontier of the king- 

dom of Dar Saley or Wara. This place is about 120 

miles south- south-west of Abou Shareb, which is again 

five days' journey from Wara. Donga is also stated to 

be thirty days'* (one account. Major Rennells, says forty 

days') journey from Shillook or Shilluck, that is the pas- 

sage of the Bahr-el-abiad, El Aice, at the boundary of the 

Shillook, according as the boundary of that people stood 

about fifty years ago. Dar-el-Nahas at the copper mines 

was twenty-two and a half days' journey south, one quar- 

ter west from Cobbe, exactly as laid down in the Map ; the 

journey made good being estimated at the rate of twelve 

geographical miles per day. These facts considered we 

have the true position of Donga and the sources, not of 

the Bahar-el-Abiad, but of the great river Zaire, or Congo, 

which it thus appears is the river Bahar Kulla running 

south-west. The former country Donga gives us also the 

Vallis Ga7-amantica, or great "dale or valley" so promi- 

nently mentioned by Ptolemy. It must have been a verv re- 

markable valley, or dale, or low country, to make him take 

such prominent notice of it, and here we find it in the very 

position, especially as to latitude, in which he places it. 

Kulla, or KoUa, we now know accurately designates a low 

* Browne, p. 473. 

e 2 







[76] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



country in contradistinction to high lands, and the river 

Bahar Kulla means only the great river which traverses 

that low country. 



Now let us for a moment attend to the accounts which 

we have of this portion of Africa, as they have been derived 

from two quarters opposite to each other, the north and the 

south, and wholly unconnected. " The country of Dar 

Kulla," says Browne, p. 449, " is for a great part of the year 

wet and marshy, the heat is excessive, and the people 

remark that there is no summer" — that is, no regular dry 

season. This alone indicates its position to be near the 

Equator. Its people are partly negroes, and partly of a 

copper colour. They have many considerable rivers which 

are never dry, and which they cross in canoes, made 

from large trees cut down and hollowed out. * The 

expression " never dry," as stated by Burckhardt, is a 

strong Arabic mode of designating a fertile country 

abounding in water, and having large rivers. The road to 

Donga from Cobbe is, says Browne, p. 473, very mountain- 

ous, and the river in it rises from forty distinct hills ; a 

common African mode of expressing a great number of 

springs and tributaries. It is ten days' journey south from 

Abou Telfain on the frontier of Bergoo, or Dar Saley. Burck- 

hardt received accounts exactly similar. The route to Don- 

ga and Dar Kulla is by the sources of the Misselad, or river 

Gir, found in the very district where Ptolemy had placed it. 



Next to these, let us attend to the accounts which 

on the south side have been glanced at with regard to 

this country. First, all the Portuguese early accounts and 

maps represent the Congo and the chief branch of the 

Nile as flowing from the same districts in Central Africa. 



* Browne, p. 308. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [77] 



Secondly, Tackey tells us that the Congo was reported to 

issue in several streams from a large lake of mud, which 

lake was from the distance given nearly under the Equator ; 

in other words, that the Congo came from a country wet 

and marshy, and that it was formed by many streams in 

its early course, for this is the correct account when strip- 

ped of its African phraseology. Thirdly, he met near the 

cataracts, and liberated, a Mandingo man slave, who said 

that he came from a country to the north-east, called 

M'Intola, situated upon a river nearly as large as the Zaire ; 

and that he had been three moons on his journey, travelling 

sometimes bv land and sometimes bv water in comina- 

from it. Mandingo is well known to be round the sources 

of the Niger, and at an immense distance from this portion 

of Africa. The pronunciation of the name of the country 

from which the man came, M'Intola, shews that Tuckev 

mistook the other word, and that it should have been 

pronounced M'Jndonga. In this. Donga is readily recog- 

nised, the road to it, the river that flows in it, and that 

M'Intola is a district in it. Other men told Tuckey that 

they had been to a distance of thirty days' journey north- 

east ; that there the country was very mountainous ; that 

in their road they crossed many rivers, some in canoes, 

and others at fords. Fourthly, and what is more to the 

point, the river began to rise immediately above the cata- 

racts on the first of September. Now about the tenth of 

August the sun would have about 15° north declination, 

or four degrees from the northern limits of Donga, at 

which time the rain would commence to the southward of 

the mountains on the frontier of that country. After ten 

days, and as the sun became vertical about the twenty-fifth 

of August, the streams in the upper and nearly mid- 







[78] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



die course would be greatly moved ; and from that period 

they would all be flooded deeply, and the water would de- 

scend rapidly to the south. Allowing for the turnings 

and windings of the river, and considering the distance 

which the water had to run from the point, completely sub- 

jected to the inundation, a distance of about 500 miles is 

made out ; and allowing at the rate of fifty-four miles per 

day for the progress of the stream southward, the rise of 

the Congo would just take place on the first of September 

at the point where Tuckey first perceived it. At first the rise 

of the river would necessarily be slow and gradual, but after- 

ward it would be more rapid as Tuckey saw it ; for at tall- 

tree point he found it had in the short space of sixteen days 

risen seven feet, a proof that it did not descend from a lake, 

otherwise the rise could not have been so quick. It would, 

it is considered, be superfluous to say more to establish the 

point. The magnitude of the river where Tuckey turned 

back, 280 miles from its mouth, the breadth of the stream 

from three to four miles, its great depth (many fathoms), and 

a current fully three miles an hour at the very commence- 

ment of the inundation, and the time of the commencement 

of that inundation, establish from invincible data, that the 

Zaire or Congo descends from a high northern latitude, 

and that the rivers in Donga and Dar Kulla must form its 

early stream. 



The reader who wishes further information regarding the 

parts of Africa adjacent to those which have been here 

described and of Africa beyond the limits of the present 

Maps, may consult for that purpose my Geographical Sur- 

vey of Africa, and general map of Africa : the latter pubhsh- 

ed by Mr. Arrowsmith in 1840. 



With a few general remarks, we shall conclude these 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [79] 



observations. The character of the modern Abyssinians 

appears, frona the accounts which reach us, to be a strange 

compound of meekness and ferocity, devotion and bar- 

barity, such as is rarely to be found among men. Thus 

when engaged in war, they will never fight on the Sab- 

bath, and always have solemn religious service and ordi- 

nances administered by the Priests before beginning a 

battle. They are regular and devout in their private fami- 

lies and devotions. Of this. Salt gives several, but es- 

pecially the following interesting specimen, which took 

place in the house of the Governor of Dixan, on his arrival 

at that place. "At the break of day," says he, "the 

well known sound of the Baharnegash's voice calling his 

familv to praver, excited my attention, when I immediately 

ran and joined his pai'ty. At this moment, the interval 

of four years, which had elapsed since my former visit, 

appeared like a dream. The prayers which he recited 

consisted of the same words, were pronounced in the 

same tone, and were offered up with the same fervour of 

devotion, which I had before so often listened to with 

dehght ; and when the ceremony was concluded, the good 

old man delivered out his orders for the day, with a patri- 

archal simplicity and dignity of manner, that was really 

affecting to contemplate."* All this is very pleasing ; but 

on the other hand, when we consider some of their punish- 

ments, and these exercised upon captive enemies, such 

as mutilating their dead bodies, in a manner that delicacy 

forbids us to describe, and flaying them alive, and then 

stuffing the skins, which operation they call making a 

bottle, we are lost in wonder at the inconsistency and 

debasement of human nature. The Gallas are equally 

* Salt. p. 2.10. 







[80] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



cruel, and more generally so. In war they massacre 

alike the resisting and the unresisting, young and old, male 

and female, ripping up the latter who are with child, an 

Asiatic custom, which, with other Asiatic customs, would 

lead us to believe that their ancestors came originally from 

Asia. 



Abyssinia must have undergone many, and strange, and 

distressing vicissitudes of fortune. At a very early period 

of history it was a powerful and enlightened empire. 

We find one of its Queens placing herself in power and 

knowledge as an equal to Solomon. It was most cer- 

tainly a Queen of that country which visited Jeru-salem 

during the reign of that Prince. Our Saviour calls her by 

way of eminence, the Queen of the South. He who made 

the world, must know correctly the position of every part 

of it ; and it may be remarked, that the centre of Abyssinia 

is due south from Jerusalem. Subsequent to that period 

the Abyssinians had conquered a great part of Arabia. At 

an early period they were converted to the Christian faith, 

which they have continued to hold ever since, under the 

most trying and disadvantageous circumstances. They 

commanded the Red Sea, and with it the trade between 

Eastern Africa and the East Indies ; with Egypt, Asia 

Minor, and Europe, around the shores of the Mediterra- 

nean. This commerce was chiefly carried on by the port of 

Zeilah, but more especially by the port of Assab, within 

the Straits of Babelmandeb, at which place the ruins of 

large buildings are yet to be found. From this port the 

road into Abyssinia was direct by Manadelli, which Alvaraez 

still found in his day a great rendezvous for merchants 

from the quarters mentioned. On the rise of the Mahom- 

edan power in Arabia, Assab was wrested from Abyssinia, 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [81] 



and from that period her power began to dechne ; but the 

impenetrable nature of her country rendered her long safe 

from any serious and overwhelming attack from that rest- 

less and fanatic people. How far Christianity penetrat- 

ed into Africa during the height of Abyssinian power, it is 

difficult to say ; but we are certain it was to a great ex- 

tent ; for the remains of it, and that too in considerable 

strength, are to this day found in Enarea, Kaffa, and 

places adjacent. The rise and progress of Mahomedan 

power, while it gradually circumscribed the dominion of 

Abyssinia in the south, the east, and the north, cut her 

off at the same time, during a period of many centuries, 

from the rest of the Christian world. Still, as late as the 

thirteenth century, we find the Christian Kings of Nubia 

contending and negociating with the proudest Mahome- 

dan Sovereigns, till at last they were finally and complete- 

ly overthrown, and Christianity extinguished in Nubia, the 

wretched inhabitants flying south to Abyssinia, and into 

the deepest recesses of the African continent ; in which, 

however, they were not long hidden from their restless 

enemies, who followed, found them out, and conquered 

them. The ruins of Gambarou, on the Yeou, are well 

known to be the remains of a city of considerable impor- 

tance, formerly belonging to Christians, till it was ruined 

and laid desolate by the Fallatah ; and to this day there 

are in Goober the offspring of Copts expatriated from 

Egypt, in order to escape the ferocity and intolerance of 

the early Arabian conquerors. These people are very fair, 

as much so as the ancient Egyptians. 



That the power and name of Abyssinia penetrated dec'i) 

into, and spread widely over Africa, is a fact that cannot be 

doubted. It was known according to the earlv Portuguese 







[82] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



navigators at Benin, then a powerful kingdom. This fact 

has been denied, but without any just reason, and with- 

out reflecting that the name of Abyssinia is at this day 

known even to Timbuctoo, Sego, and the sources of the 

Niger ; pilgrims from all these places in their route hence 

to Mecca passing by Senaar, and the northern boundary 

of Abyssinia, on their way to Souakim. 



In their wars with the Mahomedans the Abyssinians 

in the decline of their power, like the Romans when in a 

similar state, engaged auxiliaries among their barbarous 

neighbours to aid in these wars. The Abyssinian auxilia- 

ries on this occasion were the Gallas. These soon saw the 

weakness of both the Abyssinian and Mahomedan power 

in the eastern portion of Africa, and made their country- 

men acquainted with it. The consequence was a general 

movement of that people against both. They first attacked 

Abyssinia about the year 1559, immediately after her 

bloody and fatal wars with the Mahomedans under Ma- 

homed Gragne. They bore down all opposition ; swarm 

after swarm was cut off in the fearful and easily defended 

defiles of Abyssinia; but swarm succeeding swarm ad- 

vanced from the interior, and at length finally and firmly 

established themselves in the country, and conquered and 

kept possession of several of the finest provinces of the 

empire, subduing at the same time the Mahomedans' on 

the coasts of the Indian Ocean, or limiting their dominions 

in a few places to narrow slips on the sea coast. These 

tribes of Gallas came from a country in the interior of Af- 

rica, somewhere about the fifth to the tenth degree of south 

latitude, in which part of Africa all early writers agree 

that the population are not negroes, but comparatively fair, 

as we find the genuine Gallas really are. What mighty 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [83] 



movement of some other savage nation in Africa caused 

the general movement of the Gallas to the north-east, we 

know not ; but as in Asia and in Europe in the early cen- 

turies of the Christian era, so in Africa it was probablv 

the attack of some other whole nation of barbarians on the 

Gallas, that drove these people as a whole and in resistless 

force against the comparatively civilized, indeed we mav 

say, the civilized empire of Abyssinia. 



When the christianized Roman empire became corrupted 

and debased, when they forsook Uhe God which made them, 

and lightly esteemed the Rock of their salvation, the 

weapons of His indignation for severe and just chastise- 

ment were at hand in the barbarous nations around, and in 

the vicinity of that empire. Commissioned by the Al- 

mighty, they were impelled against the Roman, then the 

civilized world, with a fearful and irresistible impetuosity ; 

nation succeeding nation, people more barbarous than a pre- 

ceding people, in the strong metaphorical language of Scrip- 

ture, with the fierceness and violence of a great moun- 

tain burning loith fire cast into the sea, bearing before 

them degradation, misery and desolation, lamentations, and 

mourning, and woe, with general darkness and ignorance 

in their train. But civilization and Christianity had been 

planted and rooted, and could not be eradicated ; the fierce 

conqueror yielded obedience to the laws of the Redeemer, 

and Christianity rose from this scene of ruin brighter and 

stronger than ever. As in Europe, so will it be in Asia 

and in Africa. In the latter country, when Christian Aby- 

sinia had utterly corrupted herself — when she too forsook 

the God that made her, and lightly esteemed the Rock of 

her salvation, then the weapons of His indignation in the 

nation of the barbarous Gallas were at hand to punish and 







[84] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



to chastise her. They were impelled against the corrupted 

empire with fearful and irresistible force, and there is only 

wanting the pen of the continuous and accurate historian 

to delineate to us fully the havoc and ruin, the deplorable 

scenes of misery and ruin, lamentations , and mourning, and 

woe, which the march and the conquests of these barba- 

rians brought upon the Abyssinian empire. But as in 

Europe so in Abyssinia, Christianity with civilization hav- 

ing been planted could not be eradicated. The former still 

rears its head ; many of its conquerors ; bent their necks 

and their minds to its sway and its precepts ; and as their 

power, and also the power of the early and fanatic Mahom- 

edan, is completely broken and exhausted in this portion 

of Africa, so Christianity and civilization will yet rear their 

heads and flourish, and spread in triumph over a wider 

range than ever they had before done in Africa, and until 

the name and the praise of the Redeemer are heard in 

every country, on every mountain, in every valley, and 

by every stream in Africa — the Nile and the Niger, the 

Zaire and the Zambezi, being made as well acquainted with 

the name of the true God and the Saviour, as the banks of 

the Jordan, the Thames, the Rhine, the Danube, and the Po. 

The moment to commence and to accelerate this great 

work as regards Africa is the present hour. Every thing 

is auspicious and encouraging to undertake and to go on 

with the work. The strength and power and energy of 

both Mahomedanism and Paganism in Africa, especially 

in those parts of it more immediately under consideration, 

are broken and exhausted, and can no longer venture, even 

if they had the will, as formerly, to trample upon Christian 

power or Christian messengers. The road is comparatively 

open, and the field is comparatively clear ; the cause is 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [85] 



noble, the prize to be obtained honourable and great. The 

best interests of the human race, to a very great extent, is 

dependent upon African improvement and civiHzation. 

The interests of Great Britain in a more especial manner, 

both commercial, colonial, and political, are interwoven 

with, and dependent upon, the improvement and prosperity 

of Africa, to an extent, in fact, almost incredible, and such 

as few can believe who have not deeply considered the mat- 

ter, but which it is impossible to enter upon here. Look 

what the present Viceroy of Egypt has done ! When 

threatened by all Europe in 1839, and when they were 

about to put their threats into execution, he, on the plains 

of Fazuclo ordered that expedition, the surprising results 

of which have been previously considered, and while he 

was contending against all Europe, the officers to which he 

had intrusted the execution of the work, went and accom- 

plished the noble object, the exploration of by far the 

greater portion of the long-hidden Bahr-el-abiad. On the 

plains of Fazuclo also he erected a city, named after himself, 

and which will rapidly rise into importance. Khartoum, 

which only a few years ago was composed of a few miser- 

able straw huts, is now a considerable city, well laid out, and 

supplied and inhabited by different races of men, among 

whom are many Christians. When Mahomed was there 

in July 1839, these Christians came to solicit him to give 

them a piece of ground on which they might erect a church. 

"You shall not only have the ground you want," said Maho- 

med, " but I will assist you with the funds you may require 

to build and to complete it." This is noble — this opens up 

the dawn of a bright day to Africa, if judiciously attended 

to, and pcrseveringly looked after. But this is not all. When 

at Fazuclo he put an end to the Slave Trade in all his do- 







[86] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



minions in that quarter of Africa, and counselled and ad- 

vised the native princes around his provinces to do the 

same, and to turn their attention to cultivate the soil, and 

sell its products instead of selling men. They listened to 

his counsels with attention, and promised that they would 

follow them out ; and he is a man who will not forget to 

make them keep their word. 



What Mahomed Ali has done and does, cannot Eng- 

land also perform ? Most assuredly she can, if she will ; and it 

is as much her interest as it is the interest of Mahomed 

Ali, not only to see Africa improved and cultivated and 

civilized, but further, that she should have a most active 

and immediate hand in the work. A few more men with 

the energy and judgment of Mahomed Ali, and a few more 

judicious, patient, and humble and pious Christian teach- 

ers like Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf in Africa, would 

do more to civilize, enlighten, Christianize, and improve 

her, than navies stationed round her coasts, or rude com- 

merce, such as the palm oil trade, could do in thousands of 

years. Can England not find such, and also the means to 

assist and to support them ? * 



* The French have lately purchased two stations in the Bay of Am- 

phila, at Ayth or Edd, and another place. The British in 1840, ob- 

tained a settlement on two of the islands in the Bay of Tajoura. Both 

nations, it wo'old thus appear, are directing their ^•iews to Ab«sinia. 







POSTSCRIPT. 



After the preceding pages were written and in the hands 

of the printer, further accounts were received from Dr. 

Beke. He was at Yaush on the 25th of November, 1842. 

He had explored the whole provinces of Gojam and the 

countiy to the neighbourhood of the cataract of Alata, and 

also the provinces of Damot and Agowmedre and places 

around the sources of the Blue Nile. The province of Gojam 

is a pastoral country, consisting of elevated plains and very 

high mountains, without trees; and intersected bv numerous 

small streams. The ridges of mountains to the east and 

the south-east of Geesh rise into the regions of frost and 

snow. On the 4th of June a very violent storm of hail 

was felt at Amwatta. The hailstones were very large. 

Several people and many cattle were killed by them. The 

hail lay on the ground for three days before it was melted 

by the heat of the sun, a proof that the country is greatly 

elevated. Damot is both a pastoral and an agricultural 

country, with extensive forests and numerous small rivers. 

Agowmedre to the westward, south-west, and north-west 

of the sources of the Nile, is very mountainous, the hills 

generally volcanic, but the soil in many places fertile. 

The Abawi, or Blue Nile, at the ford of Furi is from seventy 

to eighty yards broad, five feet deep, and the current from 

two to three miles per hour. Dr. Beke pointedly states 







[88] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



that the people dweUing to the south-west of KafFa trade 

with the west coast of Africa, and that one of their arti- 

cles of commerce is salt. His journeys confirm in the 

most striking manner the accuracy of the accounts which 

Bruce had obtained regarding the countries and rivers to 

the south, to the east, and to the west of the sources of 

the Nile. Indeed without the assistance of the notes and 

information given and obtained by Bruce, Dr. Beke's last 

journey through northern Damot and Agowmedre could 

not have been laid down in the accompanying Maps. At 

the capital of Mettakel the Shangallas who came to attend 

it had never before seen a white man. Dr. Beke was con- 

sequently an object of great curiosity. 



The whole country westward from the meridian of Gon- 

dar to the Blue Nile has been delineated from a careful 

perusal of Poncet's travels in Abyssinia, but especially 

from a careful examination of the last edition of Bruce's 

work, and the notes taken by that traveller when on the 

spot, and inserted by his editor in different parts of the 

different volumes. These important notes have, it would 

appear, been hitherto wholly overlooked. Hence the 

errors which have crept into the geography of this portion 

of Africa. His account of the country between the 

Tacazze and Gondar is fully as correct as RuppeU's, and 

his account of the rivers near Gondar is much more clear 

and satisfactory. He also states most pointedly the fol- 

lowing curious and important point ; namely, that the 

Angrab, which passes round Gondar, runs first through the 

low country of Dembea, and then northward to the Ta- 

cazze, and the more I consider the subject the more I am 

inclined to consider this account to be correct. Ruppel's 

silence does not invalidate the account ; for in that direction 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [89] 



he was only as far as Azzazo, and does not say one word 

about any rivers at or near that place. The account which 

Bruce gives is contained in the narrative of his journey 

from Gondar to the sources of the Nile. Before coming 

to Azzazo, about seven miles from Gondar, he states that 

he passed first the small river Shimfa, and next the Dum- 

aza, larger than the other, and on the banks of which latter 

stream Azzazo is situated. " The Dumaza," says he, " is 

a very clear and limpid stream running briskly over a small 

bed of pebbles : both this river and the Shimfa come from 

Woggora in the north-west ; they pass the hill of Koscam 

called Debra Tzai (mountain of the sun), join below Azzazo, 

and traversing the flat country of Dambea they meet the 

Angrab, which passes by Gondar, and with it fall into the 

Tacazze or Atbara."* 



Bruce most pointedly and repeatedly states in the notes 

alluded to, that the Bahr-el-abiad had no great western 

branch ; that it required none, but that the parent stream 

took its rise to the south of Enarea. 



For the account of the river which passes by Kachina- 

ara and joins the Chadda, the writer of this is indebted to 

Captain W. Cook, one of the Commissioners who accom- 

panied the late Niger Expedition. The account he received 

was from an African Mallam or Priest. I cannot however 

refrain from expressing my opinion that the Mallam has re- 

versed the position of this river Fo Kakchi, and that the fact 

is the river comes from Mount Thala, a ptirt of the Man- 

dara range, and flows into the Chadda on the north side 

instead of the south side. Still the Mallam may be correct. 



The point which Captain Beecroft reached in the chief 

branch of the Formosa, in Mr. Jamieson's vessel the 

* Bruce, vol. v. p. 239. 







[90] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



Ethiope Steamer in 1840, is distinctly marked in the Map. 

At this point Captain Beecroft calculated that he was only 

about twenty miles from Aboh or Eboe ; and where he 

turned back the stream was fifty yards broad, five fathoms 

deep, and the current upwards of three knots per hour, 

and this toward the close of the dry season. The banks 

of the river were perfectly level, and covered with long 

grass or reeds. No high land could be seen in any direc- 

tion. The other branch of the Formosa, which joins 

more to the westward, also had a strong current and four 

fathoms water at the extreme point reached. The War- 

ree branch had never less than five fathoms water, and 

this at the close of the dry season. The banks of this 

branch were high, dry, cultivated, and populous. Captain 

Cook saw the branch which runs off to the westward about 

twenty-five miles above Aboh. It was about 1000 yards 

broad, and across the stream eight to ten fathoms deep, 

with a small island in the middle. This was the state of 

this branch in the flood. It appeared to be as large as the 

branch running south, or the Nun. 



Interesting accounts have just been received from two 

Missionaries, one belonging to the Church Missionary So- 

ciety, and the other to the Wesleyan Society. These men 

had been invited by the Chiefs ruling the country to the 

north-east of Badagry and to the north of Benin to visit 

them. They had penetrated about ninety miles into the 

country in the direction of north-east from Badagry, and 

were well received. The capital of one state at the dis- 

tance mentioned contains about 40,000 inhabitants. The 

country is described as populous, exceedingly fine and fertile, 

and very healthy. 



This capital is named Abbekuta, governed by a Chief 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [91] 



named Sodeke. The population consists of the Egba 

tribe of the Akus united. Abbekuta is nine days' journey 

from the Niger, and situated on a river named Ogu, which 

joins the river of Lagos, to which latter place it is navigable 

in canoes during the rains. The capital appears to be on 

the east side of the river, here of considerable breadth, but 

very shallow early in the dry season. The town is situated 

upon a hill, from which the view is very fine, and the river 

runs through a fine valley, with hills on either hand. The 

bottom of the river is sandy and rocky, and no miasma 

around its banks. To the eastward are two large towns, 

called Jai and Abada; and at seven days' journey distant, 

is Illome in the Eyo country, and two days' journey from 

the Niger. Abbekuta seems to be a great thoroughfare for 

the people of Huassa on their way to the coast, and all 

travellers are here treated kindly. Sodeke expressed the 

greatest anxiety for Missionaries to come and reside with 

them, promising them every support and protection. The 

streets of Abbekuta are narrow and irregular. Soon after 

leaving the coast, the country began to ascend and hills to 

make their appearance. The time occupied in travelling 

from Badagry to Abbekuta at a brisk rate was about thirty 

hours. The necessaries of life are abundant in the capital. 

Horses, sheep, goats, cows, fowls, and pigeons are in 

great abundance. The people manufacture leather of va- 

rious kinds and articles of leather, saddles, shoes, slippers, 

and cushions ; and of iron they manufacture bits for their 

horses, stirrup irons, clasp knives, hoes, and bill-hooks in 

imitation of English. About half way between Badagry 

and Abbekuta, a considerable town, named Adu, lay one 

day's journey distant from the road, eastward it is supposed ; 

and by this town a river called Adu (the Doo probably of 







[92] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



our maps and the same as the Ogu) ran to the Lagos. Jaboo 

seems to be to the east or to the south-east of Abbekuta. 



A very interesting letter from a Medical Gentleman who 

has lately visited the Gaboon River has just come into the 

hands of the writer of this Memoir. He gives a very fa- 

vourable account of the disposition of the people, and the 

very considerable advance which they have made in civili- 

zation. Their houses are neat and comfortable, and their 

towns laid out in regular streets. They treat their women 

with kindness and equality, and sit and eat, and converse 

with them at the same table. They are fond of English 

customs and dress, and carry on considerable traffic with 

English and French vessels. In old Calabar a great deal 

of business is also carried on. The Chief has about 200 

large canoes engaged in the palm-oil trade and other des- 

criptions of traffic with the interior parts. He is also deter- 

mined to set his people to cultivate the soil, and calls for 

people to instruct them. The English Language is gene- 

rally and fluently spoken in this quarter, and their accounts 

kept in it. 



In reference to the matter stated in page 64 about a 

river entering the sea in north latitude two degrees on the 

east coast of Africa, as reported by Captain Harris, and 

published in the Bombay Times, it is necessary to observe 

that Abulfeda states* that the river named after the town 

enters the sea " near Makdishu," or Magadoxo. His 

words are : f " It has a large river like the Nile of Egypt, 

which swells in the summer season. It is said to be a 

branch of the Nile which issues from Lake Kaura (Zana) 

and runs into the Indian Sea near Makdishu." The Arabic 



♦See Macqueen's Geographical Survey of Africa, 1840. p. 246. 

t See Lee's Batouta, p. 55. 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [93] 



expression branch of the Nile, is now well understood only 

to mean that the river rises in the same district of Africa 

that gives birth to the Blue River, or the Abawi. All the 

early Portuguese navigators and maps acknowledge and 

insert this river, and mention the same particulars con- 

cerning it. In a Map of Africa constructed by J. Senex, 

from the observations of the Royal Societies of London 

and Paris, and dedicated to Sir Isaac Newton, and com- 

piled, as regards these parts of Africa, from the Portu- 

guese materials, we find this river laid down roughly, but 

by no means very inaccurately, its source near Gumar, 

which place is to the south-east of Bargamo, and its mouth 

a little to the north of Magadoxo, exactly in two degrees 

north latitude. A few months ago Messrs. Krapf and 

Isenberg wrote the Society from Zeilah that the large 

river called Wabhe or Webbe ran to the south of Hurrur 

southward to the sea at Magadoxo, and that there was a 

caravan route from Zeilah to that place which occupied a 

journey of two months. Batouta mentions this caravan 

route, and gives the same time and distance from Zeilah to 

Magadoxo. Bruce lays down this river as the Webbe. 

Salt, in the valuable chart of the east coast of Africa and 

map inserted in his last voyage, quarto, page 13, in 

1814, lays down this river under the name of the Webbe 

and all its early branches very fairly. One descends from 

the east of the Aroosee Galla, and another, the longest, 

from the country east of the sources of the Magar and 

south of Gurague, exactly as I hnd I have placed them in 

the Map from accounts obtained by Mr. Krapf, and also the 

accounts which Captain Harris had received from him 

when at Ankobar, and inserted in the last number of the 

Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. Salt brings 







[94] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. 



the river to the sea a little to the south of Magadoxo, in 

which he is probably correct. Captain Cook, who was at 

Magadoxo and close upon the coast to a distance of six- 

teen miles to the north of the place, informs me that he 

could see no river entering the sea within that space ; but 

he added that he was informed a large river ran to the 

westward a short distance to the north of Brava. If this 

account is correct, the river in question may enter the sea 

between the Juba and Brava. The late Mr. Arrowsmith 

in his Map of Africa has a river near and to the south of 

Magadoxo ; the river of Juba, and also a river at Doaro. 

There seems to be a river and a province called Doaro in 

the south, and that this province has been confounded with 

Dowarro on the north. 



Of the well-known existence, therefore, of a large river 

near Magodoxo, and its course from the north, there can be 

no doubt. While correcting these pages for the press, a 

letter has been received from Captain Haines at Aden, 

dated June 2nd, giving some important and specific infor- 

mation regarding the magnitude of a river in this quarter. 

In consequence of the information which he had received 

from Captain Harris he sent Lieutenant Christopher of the 

Indian Navy to seek for and to examine it. This officer 

found and went up the river 130 miles, and found it 

throughout this distance from 200 to 300 feet broad, and 

from sixteen to sixty feet deep, a clear meandering stream. 

The country around its banks was very fine, beautiful, and 

pretty weU cultivated, and the population intelligent, 

friendly, and civil. They stated that the stream was navi- 

gable upwards to a great distance, and that both it and the 

Juba joined the Gojob ; in other words, that the sources 

of the parent stream of both rivers came from the same por- 







GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [95] 



tion of Africa to the north ; for this mode of joining and se- 

parating rivers is a very common mode of Africans, but 

especially Arabs, stating such matters. The letter from 

Captain Haines gives no name to the river, nor does he 

state the exact place in latitude where it enters the sea, 

but merely that it does so to the north of the Juba, which 

latter is very nearly under the equinoctial line. 



As but few points in the interior of Africa have been 

fixed by correct astronomical observations, it is to be dis- 

tinctly understood that the accompanying Maps have gene- 

rally been constructed on the data afforded by days' journeys ; 

and that several rivers, especially the middle portions of 

some of these, have been drawn in the supposed general bear- 

ings of the great valleys through which these must flow. 



London, 



July 31, 1843. 







JOUENALS, 



&c. &c. 

PART I. 



JOURNEY FROM ZEILA TO ANKOBAR. 



CHAPTER I. 



DESCRIPTION OF ZEILA — COSTUME AND FOOD OF THE INHAniTANTS — 

MESSAGE FROM THE GOVERNOR — DEPARTURE FROM ZEILA — ARRIVAL 

AT TADJURRA — INTERVIEW WITH THE SULTAN — DESCRIPTION OF 

TADJURRA — DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING CAMELS AND MULES— VISIT 

FROM THE SULTAN — DETENTION AT TADJURRA— INTENSE HEAT OF 

THE WEATHER — NOTICES RESPECTING ENAREA, SIDAMA, AND GURAGUK 

— DISCUSSION WITH A TIGRE MERCHANT RESPECTING ISLAMISM. 



April 2, 1839, Zeila. — Our sojourn in this place, 1 

hope, is now over. If it please God, we shall set sail 

to-morrow in our small boat, and proceed onward to 

Tadjurra. Hitherto the Lord has helped us. The 

Governor here has treated us kindly. The first cvcn- 



B 







2 DESCRIPTION OF ZEILA. 



ing of our visit, he sent us a present of a sheep ; and 

this morning, a buck. He offered us also two houses; 

one as a dwelling, and the other for a store house. 

Besides this, he gave us a letter of introduction to the 

Governor of Tadjurra, and tendered every other assis- 

tance we might need. In return for this he only re- 

quired, that we should give him written recommenda- 

tions to Captain Haines, Hassan Effendi, and to all 

English travellers and captains of vessels. These we 

wrote for him ; and on delivering them, apologized for 

not being able to offer him an adequate present. How- 

ever, he then asked for something, observing that his 

object was not gain : that he did not want anything of 

much value, but requested it only that he might be re- 

spected by his people. We examined our baggage, and 

finding a good caftan belonging to the Rev. J. L. 

Krapf, a silk handkerchief and a box of lucifers, we 

gave them to him. He looked with indifference at 

these presents, and repeated that he did not care about 

having these things, but only for our friendship ; and 

that he preferred good recommendations to presents. 

Thus far he appeared to understand his interest. We 

are very anxious to know what will be the consequences 

of this visit. From what we have seen, we think we 

may conclude that the time is not far distant, when 

this place will be accessible to every European, and an 

entrance be open from hence to Shoa and to the in- 

terior of Africa. 



Zeila is an old town, and was formerly of greater 







DESCRIPTION OF ZEILA. 3 



importance ; but at present it is, for the most part, in 

rnins. It is surrounded by walls, and has, on the 

land side, seven pieces of ordnance, pointed towards 

the Somals ; with whom the town has continual inter- 

course. It appears, however, that they are not on good 

terms ; as every mission into the country for a supply 

of water, is escorted by a party of soldiers. The town 

consists of about a hundred straw-huts, and eight 

stone houses. We are not able to ascertain the precise 

number of inhabitants, or of houses; but suppose the town 

may contain a mixed population of eight hundred souls; 

the greater part of whom are Somals, with some Dana- 

kils and Arabs. The language of the Somals appears to 

have some affinity to that of the Gallas ; w'hile that of 

the Danakils is the same as that of the Shohos, with a 

little dialectic difference : the nation is the same. Some 

understand and speak the Amharic also. Considerable 

intercourse is kept up with Horror. Several small 

vessels have just returned from Berbera. The market, 

w^hich is held in that place, and is the only cause of 

such a concourse of people frequenting it, is now 

closed, on account of the approaching rains. It appears 

that the bad quality of the water is a principal reason 

why no houses or fixed habitations have been erected 

there. I was led to this conjecture by the arrival of a 

small boat this evening, belonging to Shermarke, a 

Somal Chief of that country, and a friend of the Eng- 

lish, which had come to fetch water. On asking why 

they came for water, they said that the water of Ber- 

B 2 







4 THE SOMALS. 



bera was so brackish^ that it could hardly be used for 

drinking. 



. On our arrival here, a great crowd of people, chiefly 

children, gathered about us : the good reception, how- 

ever, wliich we met with from the Governor, kept them 

in order. On the following morning, about fifty armed 

soldiers accompanied us ; and whenever we were in 

town, a soldier usually preceded us, in order to prevent 

our being annoyed, until at length the people seemed 

to have lost their curiosity to see us. During our stay, 

however, we resided on board the vessel. There were 

eight boats in the harbour, two of which belonged to 

the brother-in-law of Sheik Taib, in Aden. The 

Hais of one of these boats had seen us last year in 

Massowah, on our return from Abyssinia. This harbour 

is very bad, there being sand banks near. 



Since last Lord's Day, a brig has been observed off the 

port ; but it could not be ascertained to what nation it 

belonged : she seemed as though she wanted to make the 

harbour, but could not. Yesterday evening, three guns 

were heard from the island of Saad-ed-deen ; in conse- 

quence of which, the Governor despatched a boat thither 

to-day, in order to look out for the vessel, and bring her 

in. In the afternoon the boat returned : they had seen 

the brig in the direction of Tadjurra ; but were unable 

to reach her, or learn any particulars. 



The Governor of this place is a man not quite thirty 

years old, with an intelligent, serious, and grave air and 

demeanor; of a middling stature and slender make. 







COSTUME AND FOOD OF ZEILA. 5 



The Somals have a singular taste for red hair. This 

is considered an ornament of which they are prond ; 

and to produce it they use certain means by which 

they dye black hair red. The natui'e of their hair seems 

to be the same as that of the Abyssinian s : it is curled 

artificially. They also besmear it with butter^ but do 

not plait it ; at least we have not yet seen any plaited 

hair. 



The costume of the natives of Zeila^ and the Somals, 

is nearly the same as that of the Abyssinians ; except 

that trowsers are not universally worn. The females 

go chiefly unveiled, having only a cloth, generally blue, 

tied round their heads. The dress of the women is to- 

tally different from the Abyssinians and Arabs. 



The food of the inhabitants of Zeila seems to con- 

sist chiefly of maize, dates, and milk, particularly camels^: 

flesh is also eaten by those who can aff^ord it. Rice is 

imported from India, and coffee from Horror ; both of 

which are dear here. 



The traffic of this place, as in Abysinnia, is conducted 

chiefly by barter. Cloths are purchased with money ; 

these are exchanged for corn ; and in lieu of corn any 

thing may be procured. The Indian cloth, in which 

they trade, is of three kinds. The best is Kash : of this 

we obtained seventeen Zeila yards, about equal to a 

Brabant yard, for a dollar. An inferior kind is called 

Ilurmia : it is made of cotton, but appears to be 

stronger than that manufactured in Abyssinia. 



jlpril 3, 1839. — Late yesterday evening I sent the 

B 3 







6 MESSAGE FROM THE GOVERNOR. 



Governor the above-mentioned recommendations. About 

half an hour afterward^ and before he had received 

them, a messenger arrived from him, asking for them, 

and bringing back the presents which we had given 

him, except the lucifer matches ; wdth the remark, that 

such caftans wxre not worn in this country : that he 

would have been glad if we could have given him some- 

thing which might have shown our respect tov/ard him 

before the people ; but that if w^e had nothing, it 

would make no difference — he would nevertheless serve 

us in every thing. The messenger at the same time 

hinted that a present of about 100 dollars would have 

been agreeable to the Governor. AVe sent him word, 

that we felt sorry at not being able to recompense his 

kindness by something that might please him ; that 

the object of our journey did not lead us to think of 

presents, what we had being just sufficient for the 

indispensable wants of our journey, and that w^hat we 

offered him was all we could spare : moreover, that he 

ought not to estimate our friendship by any present, 

although we intended in future to remember him in 

some more positive manner : meanwhile we thanked 

him for the friendship shown to us, and commended 

ourselves afresh to his kindness. The messenger pro- 

mised to deliver our answei", and we gave him a dollar 

in remuneration. He then begged the present returned 

by the Governor, for himself and his children ; but we 

refused, saying, that as the Governor did not like it, 

it would serve very well for our own use. 







ARRIVAL AT TADJURRA. 7 



The Governor also informed us, that a boat which 

had arrived this evening from Berbera had brought 

the news, that Shermarke was on board the brig 

which had been seen yesterday, and that he had gone 

to Tadjurra. 



About ten o^clock this morning we got under weigh 

with three other boats, which also go to Tadjurra : — 

wind blo^nng north-east. 



I asked some of our crew, who are Somals, whe- 

ther their hair was naturally red : they answered in 

the negative. On enquiring how they dyed it, they 

said, that they besmeared it first with wet lime, after- 

Avard with butter, then with mud ; and that when the 

hair began to redden, they applied to it the juice of a 

plant. The captain said, that they moistened the lime 

with the urine of camels ; but the pilot denied it with 

horror, saying, that the Bedouins only did so, who do 

not pray. 



Evening. As the wind was from the north-east, we 

could not get out into the open sea, but made our way 

between the small islands along the coast. It was as 

pleasant as sailing on the Nile. We passed the Sheikas 

Islands, and the Island of Hagila; and all the four 

boats came to anchor near the small island of Assuba. 

As it was early, we went on shore to gather shells, of 

which there was a great variety. 



Jpril 4, 1839. — We arrived at Tadjurra at half past 

two o'clock this afternoon, and went directly to the so- 

called Sultan, whom we found sitting in the shade be- 







8 DESCRIPTION OF 



fore his house, leaning against the wall, with some of 

his attendants near him on either side. He is an old 

man of about sixty years of age. He saluted us with 

gestures ; and we delivered our letter of introduction 

from the Governor of Zeila, which he received in 

silence. We sat a little while, and then he made us a 

signal to retire ; on which we accompanied ovir guide, 

Mahomed Ali, to a house which he showed us as our 

dwelling, constructed of sprigs covered inside and out- 

side with mats, and divided into four apartments, like 

the houses in Arkeeko. As our baggage was yet in 

the boat, we had to go on board again, to get it on 

shore. In the harbour we saw the above mentioned 

brig. It was a merchantman, called the " Euphrasia," 

Capt, Blondeau, a Frenchman, from Mauritius, with 

whom we met Lieut. Tilley, an Englishman. On 

reaching our boat, the Captain came up to us. We 

saluted each other ; and he then sent a boat to take us 

to his vessel, where we passed the night. 



Jpril 5, 1839. — This morning we removed our bag- 

gage from the boat to our temporary dwelling. We 

should have been glad to have arranged matters for our 

journey ; but the Captain and Shermarke obliged us, 

against our will, to settle a quarrel between them, which 

took up the greater part of the day. 



April 6 — By the brig " Euphrasia," which left 

early this morning, we despatched letters for Cairo and 

Europe. Tadjurra is a far more miserable town than 

Zeila. Its geographical situation is wrongly marked 







TADJl'RRA. y 



on the maps : it is at a much greater distance from 

Zeila, and, as we were informed on board the ''Eu])hra- 

sia/^ its northern latitude is 11° 58'. 



The houses are all made of sprigs : there are about 

iifty connected yards in the place, each of which in- 

closes several sprig hovels. The inhabitants are Dana- 

kils : their sovereign is called Sultan, or Dardar 

Mahomed. He appears to be a good-natured man, but 

of limited acquirement ; as he does not seem to know 

how to read Arabic, neither does he speak it fluently. 



The people here have seen but very few Europeans 

among them ; hence we are the objects of their gi'cat- 

est curiosity. This, indeed, was the case also at Zeila ; 

but there we stopped on board the ship, whereas here 

we live among them, and are consequently much more 

exposed to their gaze. 



The so-called Sultan, who, on our first interview with 

him, put on so grave an air, called on us to-day, to 

ask for a present : however, his subject, IMahomed Ali, 

put him to silence. 



April 8 — Yesterday was a day of trial to us. In 

the afternoon, the Sultan came witli his Vizier and 

Cadi, to make an agreement with us about the camels 

and mules for our journey. If the Sultan looks rather 

diminutive, the Vizier's bodily circumference on the 

contrary, is well suited to his title. "While these gentle- 

men were seated with him, the Sultan sent for the 

Letter from the Governor of Zeila. The messenger, on 

his return, threw the Letter at the feet of his master : it 







10 VISIT FROM THE 



was then picked up^ and the Sultan stuck it into his 

turban. By this ceremony he wished to display his 

kingly dignity. A long dispute now ensued about the 

hire of mules and camels. They asked twenty dollars 

hire for every mulc^ and would not consent to any re- 

duction. For every camel they demanded, at first, 

twenty-six dollars ; and when we referred to the order 

of the Governor of Zeila, that we should have the ani- 

mals at the usual caravan price, they said that the 

caravan price for a camel was a female slave. On closer 

inquiry, we learned that the caravans generally have 

camels of their own. Only in one instance, when the 

King of Shoa had ordered some small cannon, he paid 

a female slave for every camel. This gave us an oppor- 

tunity to protest against tbe slave-trade ; saying, that 

we could in no wise engage in such traffic. They then 

fixed the price of each at twenty-three dollars. At 

length we determined to purchase two mules, and to 

hire only as many camels as were requisite to carry our 

most indispensable baggage, and to let our attendants 

ride on the same. After these people had left us, we 

consulted together ; but were at a loss what to do, as 

our pecuniary means were so sadly reduced. Finally, 

we deliberated whether one of us had not better pro- 

ceed to Aden, and draw money there. We had, indeed, 

written to Captain Haines, and to Bombay, for 400 

dollars : but it might be some time before this could 

reach us. This plan, however, was also objectionable 

in many respects. It is the Lord^s will that we 







SULTAN OF TADJURRA. IX 



here suffer tribulation, that we may draw nearer to 

Him. 



To-day, after supper, the Sultan called on us, begging 

some medicine for a sick woman. He was more fami- 

liar than usual. When we asked how old he was, he 

replied, " Between thirty and forty." He was ignorant 

of his own age, but said that he was a boy, and un- 

married, when he became Sultan. His silvery beard, 

however, shows that he cannot be far from sixty. On 

this occasion we also learned, that the dignity of the 

Sultan and Vizier is hereditary in this country, and is 

divided between the two families; so that after the de- 

cease of the Sultan, his Vizier succeeds him, and the 

son of the Sultan succeeds the Vizier. 



Our Rais, iNIahomed Kassem, took leave of us to- 

day. I gave him Letters for Cairo, which he is to for- 

ward by way of Zeila. 



April 9, 1839.— At one o'clock p.m. the thermo- 

meter was at 93° in the shade. 



April 10— We wrote several Letters last night. 

Collected to-day some Dankali words : closed the col- 

lection of Amharic words from Exodus, and began with 

Leviticus. We gave some oil of turpentine yesterday, 

with good effect, to a wife of the Sultan, as a remedy 

against hysterics. 



Xpril 16 — We have been detained till this day by 

the illness of INIahomed Ali, our guide. Wrote Letters 

for Cairo and London, and sent them to Mocha by a 

boat belonging to Mahomed Ali. The business about the 







13 SLAVE TRADE. 



mules and camels has given us a great deal of trouble^ on 

account of our scanty funds. The SuUan has grown 

more and more friendly toward us ; and once brought 

us, in his own hands, a jug of milk, and, at another time, 

a buck. As a present, he only asked for a piece of 

bafta, to get a dress made for himself; and promised to 

let us have camels for fifteen dollars each, as we insisted 

that he should. Yesterday evening, however, when he 

again called on us, he fixed the price at seventeen 

dollars ; to which Ave agreed this morning, lest we 

should cause ourselves any further delay. 



Warkieh had yesterday another attack of fever ; and I 

therefore bled him to-day. Brother Krapf is also ap- 

prehensive of falling ill again here. 



Mahomed Ali expressed his fears this morning, that 

if this country were frequented by English travellers, 

they might put down the slave trade. We told him that 

the English would not interfere with their trade, as long 

as matters were not settled between the Sultan Maho- 

med and the Pasha of Egypt. He is afraid that we 

are going to persuade the King of Shoa to relinquish 

the slave trade, which appears to bring them considera- 

ble gain. 



The Sultan has just now been here again : he said, 

that he received yearly 200 head of cattle, camels, cows, 

sheep, and goats, as a tribute from the Danakil Tribes. 

Yv'hen asked whether he had not to pay any tribute to 

the Pasha of Egypt, he said " No : " but when I asked 

whether he had to pay tribute to the Governor of Zeila, 







NOTICES OF EXAKE., SIDAMA, AND GURAGUE. 13 



he replied, that the Governor of Zeila had three-quar- 

ters of a dollar for every female slave sold here, whereas 

he receives yearly twenty dollars from Zeila. 



With the help of God, I have to-day finished the 

arrangement and insertion into the Lexicon of the words 

collected from the Pentateuch, and gathered, also, a few 

Dankali words. IMay the Lord bless this work, and 

also my fiu'ther proceedings, if He permit me to con- 

tinue them ! It is a grain of corn, which one day may 

bring forth fruit. May He draw our hearts more and 

more to Himself, though it be through sufferings ! 



Airril 18, 1839. — This afternoon, by the help of God, 

I terminated the perusal of the Pentateuch, which I 

began at Jidda. I inserted all the words into the 

Lexicon, as I had begun so. 



We bought a mule from our guide, IMahomed Ah ; 

and the camels are engaged at the rate of seventeen 

dollars. 



April 23 — Yesterday the heat was very intense, the 

thermometer standing at 95° in our room ; but to-day 

it was only 90°, the sky being overcast. 



A Mahomedan merchant from Tigr^, who came 

hither, from Bcrbera, on commercial business, gave us 

some information concerning Enarea, Sidama, and 

Gui-agiie ; which he had obtained chiefly from slaves. 

In these three countries there are many Christians. The 

race of men in Sidama is said to be su})erior, and of a 

hghter colour even than the Gallas. They say that the 

present ruler of Enarea, Abba Gibbo, has broken the 







14 "discusssion with 



caravan intercourse between Gondar and Sidania. His 

father, Abba Gumbal, sought to destroy his sons and 

brothers ; but Abba Gibbo gained the ascendancy, and 

deposed his father, leaving him only on his pay and the 

government of a small district. The traffic in slaves 

is very considerable in these countries, and seems to be 

much promoted by the King of Shoa. Our guide, 

Mahomed Ali, is much afraid that we shall persuade 

him to abaiidon it. We have tried to set him at ease 

in this respect as much as possible; but, nevertheless, 

he appears to distrust the English. Our stay here, which 

has been very trying on account of the great heat, will 

now, I hope, soon draw to a close. 



The Sultan came again yesterday evening, with a 

little hurdle basket full of milk, and to-day he called 

thrice. We have bought a mule, and negotiated for 

another, which was found to be unserviceable. The day 

after to-morrow we are to start for our journey. 



This evening, Warkieh had a discussion with the 

above mentioned jMahomedan Tigre merchant, jIaho- 

med, concerning Islamism ; in which, after a while, 

Mahomed Ali also joined. Warkieh required witnesses 

in behalf of the Koran. After a long dispute, the 

words of Moses, a prophet like unto me, were quoted ; 

when I came to Warkieh's assistance, opposing them 

with the context, //"o?» the midst of thee, as relating to 

Christ, not to jMahomed ; and showing how the Law, 

the Prophets, and the Gospel agree with one another ; 

whereas the Koran agreed with none of these, which 







A MAHOMEDAN MERCHANT. 15 



would be necessary if it were the accomplisliment of 

tlie whole. Mahomed, the merchant^ said, " It is true 

that all wisdom and knowledge is with the Franks ; 

only with regard to religion they are in error." I 

rejoined : " If you must admit that we are superior to 

you in the things relating only to this world — and these 

are indeed very insignificant in comparison to the great 

questions, ' ^VhsLt must I do to be saved ? ' ' How shall 

I save my soul from sin, and the curse which is attached 

toit?^ — do you not think that we also inquire into 

this most important of all questions ? " I then briefly 

proclaimed Jesus Christ to him, as the only Redeemer 

sent from God to us sinners — that it was He alone who 

could save us on the Day of Judgment, when all other 

prophets, and so-called Saviours, would have to look 

for help for their own souls. Hereupon he appeared 

to grow rather thoughtful ; for as he rose to retire, he 

said, " We have discussed many things to-day, and you 

have frightened us." 







CHAPTER II. 



PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTIXG FROM TADJURRA— SELFISHNESS OF MA- 

HOMED ALI— DEPARTURE FROM TADJURRA— NOTICES OF AMBABO, 

DULLUL, SUKTA, AND SAGGALLO — PECULIARITIES OF THE DANKALI 

PEOPLE — DEPARTURE FROM SAGGALLO— NOTICES OF THE SALT LAKE 

ASSAL— CONVERSATION WITH ALI ARAB RESPECTING THE DANKAII 

TRIBES— INSTANCE OF THE SULTAN OF TADJURKA'S WEAKNESS — AR- 

RIVAL AT GAG ADE— INTENSE HEAT — DEPARTURE FROM GAGADE, AND 

ARRIVAL AT DALIBUI, A DANAKIL SETTLEMENT— PROCEED THROUGH 

THE VALE OF KURRl, SAGGADERE, AND ARRIVE AT LITTLE MARHA 

• — DEPARTURE FROM LITTLE MARHA, PASSING GaLAMO, ADAITA, AND 

ENCAMP IN THE VALE OF RAM UDELI— DEPARTURE PROM RAMUDELI — 

APPREHENSION OF ROBBERS— DEPARTURE FROM BARUDEGA — ALARM- 

ED BY HY.ENAS — DEPARTURE FROM GAIEL, AND ENCAMP AT ALIBE- 

KELE — CHARACTER OF THE ISSA SOMaLS— DEPARTURE FROJI ALIBE- 

KELE, AND ARRIVE AT MULLU. 



April 25, 1839. — Yesterday our departure was deter- 

mined on for this day. Mahomed Ali got half his wages 

as guide, viz. twenty-six dollars out of fifty; and for 

the hire for the camels, thirty-four of the sixty-eight ; 

in all, sixty dollars. To the Sultan we gave a present of 

sixteen yards of bafta, worth a dollar and a half, and a 

small piece of Siamoise, worth two dollars. On ashing 

for more, we also gave him three dollars in silver, an 

old handkerchief, and some needles. 



Here IMahomed Ali again evinced his selfishness, by 

stating, that he would only guide us as far as the re- 







VILLAGE OF AMBABO. 17 



sidence of his father^ Errer ; from whence his father 

would go with us as far as Ankobar ; proposing, as 

dragoman and footman on the road, AU Arab, a mer- 

chant of this ])lace, who is generally employed as dra- 

goman by the Sultan. Of course he durst not ask any 

thing for his father ; but he would not take Ali Arab 

at his own expense. At last, we agreed to give him 

fifteen dollars for his companion, as he seemed to be a 

judicious and well-informed man. 



A caravan starting to-day, we wished to join them 

as far as the salt plain ; but two of Mahomed Ali^s 

people having absented themselves with a camel, and 

not returning till noon, he postponed our departure till 

the following morning; saying, that we could easily 

make, in one day, the two little journeys AA^hich the 

caravan would make to-day and to-morrow, as it was 

only five hours' distance — two from this to Ambabo, 

and three from thence to Diilliil. 



Jpril 21 — ^Yesterday our departure was finally 

effected. AVe rose very early in the morning, and had 

the camels saddled by a quarter to seven. We then 

set out, and reached Ambabo at a quarter before ten, 

where we encamped beneath some palm trees. The 

distance from Tadjurra is about an hour and a half : it 

lies W. S. W., at the Gubbat il Charab, (the Bay of 

Tadjurra), which extends itself still farther inland, in a 

westerly direction. The village Ambabo sprang out of a 

feud : its inhabitants formerly resided at Tadjurra ; but 

falling out with the rest of the citizens, they reuioved 







18 DULLUL, SUKTA, AND SAGGALLO. 



to AmbabOj where they built this village. Onr guide 

stopped behind with Ali Arab, saying, that he would 

join us in the afternoon, and then proceed with us as 

far as DliHiil. However, when he came up with Ali 

Arab, about five o'clock in the evening, he said that we 

w^ere not to start until morning. On remonstrating 

with him, he said that the road lay along the coast, and 

was not passable this evening, on account of the rising 

flood; in consequence of which w^e were obliged to 

stop. This morning we rose at three o'clock, and, 

moving at a quick pace, reached Diilliil at half -past five; 

and half an hour after, made Sukta. As we met no 

kafila here, we went on to Saggallo, situated half an 

hour S. W. from Diilliil. These places are not inha- 

bited, but serve merely as caravan stations, there being 

water. The distance from Tadjurra to Saggallo is 

about five hours. 



April 28, 1839 : LorcVs Day. — This morning, as we 

were about to proceed, a camel was said to be lost, and we 

could not move before it was found again : for the same 

reason, the caravan which was with us would remain. 

Mahomed Ali, our guide, seems determined to prolong 

our journey, as he is anxious to spare his camels. The 

beast was, however, found in the course of the morning, 

and we were to proceed in the afternoon. Yesterdaj% 

the thermometer rose to 94|° : to-day, at eleven 

o'clock, it was at 96|°. This region is very sandy 

and stony, and the soil overgrown with dwarfish 

mimosa trees, which serve to lodge many of the fea- 







PECULIARITIES OF THE DANKALI PEOPLE. 19 



tliered tribe^ particularly sea-birds, pigeons, partridges, 

and guinea-fowls ; also a small sort of gazelles, in Ara- 

bic called Beni Israel. Besides the above-mentioned, 

the hare is the only species of game which resorts hither. 

There are not many wild beasts here about : the lynx is 

said to prey upon the goat. We were not able to as- 

certain whether the leopard is found in the mountains. 

During our excui'sions, we saw a jackal. This country 

is by no means deficient in water. At Tadjurra there 

is a walled cistern. On our road hither, and even 

here, there are spots where the traveller has but to dig 

a hole in the ground to get water. Its quality depends, 

of course, on the nature of the soil. Here it is not the 

best, having rather an unpleasant taste ; which is made 

still worse by a certain herb which they put into their 

badly-prepared skin-bags, and which gives the water a 

reddish colour and a bitter taste. 



The Dankali peeple of this region have many pecu- 

liarities. They are of the same race as the Shohos, and 

differ from them but little, either in their language or 

physiognomy. They are, however, less boisterous in 

their demeanour, though perhaps more shrewd than 

the Shohos. One peculiarity in their conversation 

struck us. On saluting each other, or talking toge- 

ther, the person spoken to generally repeats every sen- 

tence addressed to him, or at least the last word, which 

they usually abbreviate, sometimes only pronouncing 

the last syllable ; or the person spoken to expresses his 







20 DEPARTURE FROM SAGGALLO. 



attention by sympathetically uttering after every sen- 

tence the protracted sound ' hmm/ They are bigoted 

Mahomedans ; and, in general, very ignorant. Even 

the women, while grinding, usually chant their creed, 

" La illaha ill'allah," &c., or other songs of the same 

tenour. Their mills are much like those on board the 

Arab vessels. The women do not live much more 

separate from the male sex than in Abyssinia, nor is 

their conduct much more moral. 



April 29, 1839. — We left Saggallo at midnight, and 

travelled for half an hour along the sea-coast, in a due 

west direction; then turned to the north-west, ascended 

an eminence, passed the defile Gall' allifeo, and, after 

a further ascent, the station Derkelle; and at last 

reached some table-land, called Wardelissan. From 

this we turned westward, till we arrived at a spot where 

a few low mimosa trees were growing, and here alighted 

to pass the night : it wanted a quarter to eight when 

we halted. Estimating the distance by our pace during 

the seven hours and three quarters' ride, we may have 

gone over a track of seven hours. As W'C ascended, we 

breathed a fresh air ; but on reaching the table-land, 

although the sun had only been up a short time, it 

grew hot, the heat being increased by a south-east wind. 

The plain was covered with volcanic stones. 



April 30. — This morning we started at three o'clock, 

and descended in a south-east and southern direction, 

through a narrow ravine, called Raisan, which was very 

toilsome for the camels to pass. This led us to the 







SALT LAKE ASSAL. 21 



western cud of tlie Bay of Tadjurra, which here termi- 

nates in a second bay. From AVardeUssan hither we 

had gone over a track of about an hour-aud-a-half ex- 

tent ; which, together with the road where we left the 

sea-coast to WardeUssan, makes five hours; and de- 

ducting the windings, the distance in a direct hue from 

the spot where wc left the shore to the end of the bay, 

is probably about three hours. From thence we as- 

cended again, and came to table land ; where the vol- 

canic appearance was still more evident, in the burnt 

minerals, ashes, and lava, which abounded all around. 

After proceeding another hour in a westerly direction, 

we saw the salt lake Assal in a valley before us ; and 

at eight o'clock we encamped at the caravan station, 

Daferri, on the declivity of the hill. The heat soon 

became intense : at noon it was 99", half an hour 

later 100", and afterwards rose to 102". 



May 1 — Yesterday our caravan was induced, 

through the great heat and want of water, to start at 

three in the afternoon ; and we began to move round 

the lake. Our course lay south-west ; but owing to 

the ruggedness of the ground, wc were obliged to wind 

our way sometimes in almost opposite directions. Wc 

crossed the valley IMarmarisso, where the caravans 

sometimes encamp : then came to an eminence, Muya ; 

whence we descended a steep declivity, and reached the 

valley Muya at seven o'clock, having made about two 

hours' way ; although, in a straight line, the distance 

from Daferri is liardly three-quarters of an hour. From 







22 SALT LAKE ASSAL. 



Muya we set off at half-past one in the night, and first 

reached a rather elevated plain, named Halaksitan. On 

account of the ruggedness of the ground, full of chasms 

and gulfs, the vestiges of volcanic eruptions, we sought 

to get round the lake Assal, towards the south, in a 

semicircle. To effect this, we had to round some 

mountains south of the lake, and arrived at a resting- 

place at its southern extremity ; but as there was no 

water, the caravan thought it better not to stop. We 

now descended to the lake, the shores of which are 

covered with a thick salt crust, which, to a European, 

presents the appearance of ice. Hither many caravans 

resort for salt, to carry to Abyssinia; of which trade the 

Danakils make a monopoly, claiming the right to take 

salt from hence as their exclusive privilege. Formerly 

the lake must have been situated much higher up ; for 

at the southern and western ends of it a thick crust of 

white and grey crystal extends along the coast, which, 

close to the lake, has a saltish taste, the taste decreasing 

with the distance. We passed over this salt crust from 

south to west : it rests for the most part directly on 

the ground, as the water seems to have sunk. In some 

parts, however, the water is seen beneath, and from hence 

it is that the caravans take their salt. I examined the 

salt incrustation in one of these places, and found it to 

be about half a foot thick. The lake is nearly oval ; 

its length, from north to south, about two hours ; and 

its greatest breadth, from east to west, perhaps one 

hour. The Danakils believe there is a subterranean 







CONVERSATION WITH ALI ARAB. 23 



connexion between this salt lake and the Bay of Tad- 

jiUTa, from which it is about two hours^ distant, in a 

direct line. After leaving the lake, we entered a dale 

toward the west, which ran between moderately high 

mountains, first westward, then south-west, and at ten 

o'clock alighted at a place of encampment called Gun- 

gunta, where there is water. About noon the heat rose 

to 107% and now, at three p. m., it is 106°. 



Maij 2, 1839. — This morning we did not move off till 

sunrise, half-past five. Our road lay first west, then south 

and south-west, through the valley Kellu, which, by its 

abundance of water and its verdure, strongly brought 

to our mind the valley of Samhar ; with this difference 

only, that the mountains of Samhar are higher, and 

bear more vegetation. Toward half past eight we 

arrived at our encamping place, Alluli, after having 

gone over a distance of two hours. The weather to-day 

is not so hot as yesterday, although the wiud was 

equally so. 



Had, this evening, a conversation with Ali Arab 

about the Dankali tribes between Tadjurra and Shoa. 

The chief tribes are the Debenik We'ema, Mudaitu, Ad- 

AlH, and Burhanto ; to which latter the Sultan of Tad- 

jurra belongs, and Tadjurra, the tribe of the present 

Vizier. The Debenik We'ema, and Mudaitu, appear 

to be the more numerous ; and the latter, ])crhaps, the 

more powerful of the Kabyles. The Mudaitus have 

their chief residence in Aussa, and extend as far nortli 

as near ]Iassowah. At Aussa, the Sultan has his 







24 SULTAN OP TADJURRA's WEAKNESS. 



Nayb. On our road the Mudaitus begin in tbe valley 

Kellii, and extend as far as the district of Aussa. At 

present^ they are at peace with the rest of the Dauakils, 

although disaffected, especially toward the Debenik 

We'emas, with whom they had a bloody war some years 

ago. On that occasion the We'emas called the Bedouins 

of Aden to their assistance; who sent them 400 sol- 

diers, and with these they conquered the Mudaitus. 

Afterward, however, they became indignant at the 

licentiousness to which these 400 soldiers abandoned 

themselves after their victory, and endeavoured to re- 

move them as soon as possible. " Nevertheless," said 

Ali, "the people of Tadjiu-ra were not prevented from 

going to Shoa, although the ]Iudaitus had interrupted 

the communication. The people of Tadjurra went to 

the end of their bay ; from thence proceeded, by night, 

to the lake of Assal ; there collected salt, returned, and 

then made their way to Shoa through the Somali coun- 

try, close by Horror." 



Ali gave us an instance of the Sultan of Tadjurra's 

weakness. It happened that he wished to give his 

nephew a wife from another Kabyla, who had a settle- 

ment in Tadjurra. This being refused by the Kabjda, 

the Sultan commanded them to leave Tadjurra : how- 

ever, the other inhabitants of Tadjm'ra encouraged them 

to remain. Hereupon they sent them to the learned 

men in Arabia and the Sheiks at Aussa, for their deci- 

sion of the matter. They all investigated their codes 

of the law, and found that the Sultan could not force 







HIS PRAISE-AVORTHY CONDUCT. 25 



the Kabyla to do as he wished. Now he has prohibited 

all marriage for a whole year; yetj in general, the Sul- 

tan seems to be a well-disposed man. This we con- 

clude, not only from his treatment of us, but also from 

the manner of his procedure concerning a ship of Diu, 

about which we often heard at Tadjurra. Several years 

ago, this ship, with a considerable cargo on board, hap- 

pened to get into the Bay of Tadjurra, having lost her 

course. The people of Tadjurra helped them to dis- 

charge their cargo into a small vessel, with which they 

sent a pilot to steer her to Mocha; and, for their 

trouble, would take no other compensation than 200 

bundles of rice and the vessel, out of which the Sultan 

has constructed a house. This, indeed, may appear an 

adequate remuneration ; but the restitution of all the 

goods, v/hich it was in his ])Ower to have kept in great 

part for himself, is a very commendable action in a Chief 

of these savage tribes. 



Yesterday evening, some merchants of the caravan 

came and asked me whether the Indians have also books. 

They had heard this from our people, to whom we had 

told it ; and, wondering, said they knew very well that 

the Jews, the Franks, and the Kafers in Abyssinia, "i^ bad 

books, but thought the Indians had none. I told them 

that they had many books, otherwise it would be incon- 

ceivcable how they could be so learned and cultivated 

as they are ; that we possessed some of their books, but 



* Here I rebuked them for calling the Abyssinians, or the Cliristian.s 

in general, Kafer; a name wiiich denotes a man who knows nothing about 

God, or denies God, or, knowing the will of God, does not act accordingly. 



C 







26 THE PLAIN OF ANDERIIADIDEBA. 



that tliey had not the Word of God ; that what they 

wrote on Divinity, Rehgion, and Philosophy, was only 

the result of their own thinking, and was not divinely 

revealed to them. 



May 3, 1839 — Early this morning, at three o'clock, 

we continued our course, turning westward ; then, for a 

short time, north-west; then again west and south- 

west, through barren dales, till we emerged into a vast 

plain, called Anderhadideba, which separates two ridges 

of mountains. The soil for the lirst half-hom-'s march 

over this plain appeared to be good, but produced 

nothing, the ground being broken up : afterward, how- 

e-er, it was fertile, grown over with shrubs, especially 

the Juniper. We met with some goatherds of the 

Mudaitus, and saw also three fine roes, which we at- 

tempted to shoot, but in vain. Toward seven we came 

to an open spot, called Gagade, where the shrubs 

recede in a wide circle. This being an encamping 

place, we here reposed. In our neighbourhood, a Mu- 

daitu, with his wife and goats, had pitched his tent ; 

Avhich was very low, and hedged in with thorns, accord- 

ing to the custom of the country. The weather is very 

hot. Between eleven and this time — a quarter before 

two — the thermometer has varied from 106° to 109° : 

however, the wind is not so hot as it was yesterday and 

the preceding days. Toward half-past three, 111°: a 

quarter to four, 107°. 



May 4 — Left Gagade at half-past one this morning. 

The other caravan had already separated from us ; one 







OCCUPATION OF THE DAXAKILS. 27 



dinsion to go to Aussa ; the other, as Mahomed AH 

said, because we marched too fast. Our people have 

abeady been prevented for several days from riding on 

the camels, for which we are very sorry, although I 

myself always walk on foot, for want of a mule. Re- 

monstrances \'ith ^lahomed Ali avail nothing : we must 

submit, especially as his camels are so very weak. We 

moved at fii'st chiefly west till we arrived at the resting- 

place, Karautu, where the way to Aussa branches off 

toward the west. From Karautu, our com-se lay south, 

between mountains, exhibiting traces of volcanic action, 

with scarcely any vegetation. Only in the valleys did we 

see gi'ass and brushwood ; and even here the ground is 

likevise covered with ashes. Soon after, we entered a 

long glen, where we saw many date trees, of which not 

the least care seems to be taken. The Bedouins cut off 

the summit of these trees, and extract the juice, which 

is said to be intoxicating. At eight we arrived at Da- 

libui, a Danakil settlement, where we rested. In the 

last six hours and a half we had not made above three 

hours' way. Half an hour before noon, the thermo- 

meter was at 97": at noon, 98° : at one o'clock, 99 ' : 

and remained as high as 97° at five p.m. 



A chief occupation of the Danakils, especially of the 

women, more particularly when they travel, is the 

plaiting of mats and baskets, for salt and corn, from the 

branches of the palm-tree. The women seem to be 

industrious. They dress in a veiy slovenly manner, 

and frequently wear nothing but a piece of cloth, of a 

C 2 







28 DRESS OF THE DANAKILS- 



gi-ey, h\e, or variegated colour, tied round their hips, 

and reacliing down to the knees, sometimes bound 

round with a fancifully- wrought leathern belt. Not- 

withstanding, they are vain, and fond of wearing brace- 

lets and foot- ornaments, ear and nose-rings, coral 

strings on their necks, &c. 



3fai/ 5, 1839 : Lord's Day — We started at three this 

morning, and moved in a south-west direction^ through 

the vale of Kurri, till we reached Saggadere, and thence 

to Little Marha, where we arrived at seven, having passed 

over a space of about two hours and a quarter, in three 

and a half. Vs^& had fresh trouble with our two people, 

because they could not ride, and were unwell. The 

heat again rather oppressive : at noon, 95" : a quarter of 

an hour later, 97° : half-past twelve, 100" : at one, 102°. 

The road was nearly level, hence no decrease of heat : 

very little vegetation. It appears to have rained some 

days since, but the ground seems to have absorbed all 

the moisture ; nevertheless, water is not totally wanting. 

Our victuals begin to fail; and as our butter is all gone, 

we have to boil our rice and lentils — which are the only 

provisions left us — in water and salt. However, if the 

Lord be our Shepherd, we shall not want ; and He will 

help us through every difficulty, proceed they from 

whatever quarter they may. The thermometer, at a 

quarter-past two, at 103|° : a few minutes later, at 104°. 

May 6 — Yesterday, at a quarter to four p.m., we left 

Little Marha, moved along the valley almost westward, 

then ascended a hill of about 300 feet elevation, very 







VALE OF RAMLDELT. 29 



stony ; and afterward took a more southern direction, 

to a caravan encaniping-spot on the table-land, which 

we reached at a quarter to seven o'clock, having made 

a way of about one hour and three-quarters, in three 

hours. In the evening, a hot wind blew : the ground 

beneath us, as we lay stretched upon it, glowed almost 

like an oven. 



We set off at half-past three this morning, and 

marched stumbling over the stony table-land, till we 

descended and passed through a ravine, and neared the 

caravan station Galamo, where we found a few Bedouin 

huts. General route, south-west. Passed a hill, and 

came into another Aalley, where we should have reposed, 

had we not been encouraged to pursue our journey by 

the lowering sky protecting us from the burning sun. 

From Adaita we passed through a grassy plain, in which 

there w^ere roes and gazelles. From this the road 

soon led again over a hill, commanding a vast pros- 

pect from the summit. Farther on, we entered the 

vale of Ramudeli, where we encamped. We arrived 

here at half-past eight, having made scarcely three 

hours' way in five hours' march. The sun now broke 

through the clouds, and away went the freshness of the 

air. We lay down beneath some mimosa trees, and 

after a while our guide sent his people to go for water ; 

but they returned with the distressing intelligence that 

they had sought for it in vain. We had taken water 

in our bags yesterday afternoon at Marha, but it was 

now consumed, and our guide had calculated on fnuling 







30 HALT AT DAUEILEKA. 



water here. The heat is again oppressive, the thermo- 

meter, being now, half-past eleven, at 102° : the same 

at two o'clock. The heat here is increased by the north- 

east wind passing over the scorched hills. "VVe found 

water at last in this vale, for which the Lord be praised ! 



May 8, 1839 — We left Ramudeli yesterday morning 

at half-past three; atfive o'clock reached Abu Yussufj and 

toward half-past eight, Gubaad. Yesterday afternoon, 

at three o'clock, we left Gubaad, passed through Sankal, 

and a spot where there is a fountain of water, and ar- 

rived at Arabdera about eight in the evening. It was 

too hot, and I was too tired to write. The distance be- 

tween Ramudeli and Gubaad may be about three hours, 

and nearly the same between Gubaad and Arabdera. We 

left Arabdera this morning at three. It is situated on 

a vast elevated plain, almost completely covered with 

volcanic stones. Just before sunrise we came to a wide 

low plain, where we saw some wild-asses grazing, which 

took to their heels at our approach. At ten we reached 

our resting-place Daueileka, where our camel-drivers 

dressed a wild ass which they had killed. In these 

seven hours we have made about four hours' way. The 

German hymn, " My life is a pilgrimage," is becoming 

very familiar to me on this journey. 



May 9 — Yesterday evening our people seemed to be 

apprehensive of robbers. They stated that a hostile 

Kabyla, called Galeila, had gone far away from this 

part to a watering-place, and that consequently we could 

not proceed thither ; the more so, as the friendly We'ema 







MOUNT MART. 31 



Dankali, who formerly had kept them under restraint, 

had removed from among them. This morning we 

started at sunrise, a quarter before six ; and after a short 

inarch on the plain west-ward, ascended a pretty high 

eminence, called Mari, southward; and at half-past 

ten reached our eucamping-place on the table-land. 

The air grew more and more pure and fresh as we as- 

cended, and I felt rather refreshed than fatigued when 

we arrived on the plain. Thermometer 90" at half-past 

ten: at eleven, 93°: half-past twelve, 97°: at one o'clock, 

98°. Mahomed Ali says he has received news that his 

relations have left Errer for want of rain, and have re- 

moved towards the north. 



May 10 — Yesterday afternoon, at twenty minutes 

past three, we set out from our encampment on Mount 

]Iari, and descended a low terrace ; then marched on a 

wide undulating high plain, over loose stones, without 

a vestige of a path, our guides at a great distance in 

front, till, after sunset, we reached a declivity, the 

descent of which was not a little dangerous. Several 

times the camels could hardly move forward, terrified 

by the dismal abyss on the right ; while the darkness of 

the night rendered the path under our feet almost un- 

discernible. At length we reached an eminence at the 

foot of the mountain on its western side, and there 

halted, on a stony spot, where the Bedouins used to 

enclose their herds between loose walls, to keep them 

from beasts of prey; although there was no fuel to 

light a fire, nor water to drink. This morning, we 







32 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 



started off at a quarter before five. When the moon is 

in the wane, we have in general observed the maxim to 

rise with it, and prepare our breakfast, and then to 

proceed while the camels are loading. We descended 

the remaining declivity, and came to Ahull, where we 

found four or five hot springs, probably sulphureous. 

Here we took in water. After a stop of about an hour, 

we prosecuted our com-se through a large plain, extend- 

ing south-east and north-west : our route lay south- 

Avest across a plain. We afterward passed over a little 

eminence covered with volcanic stones, called Lukki, 

which is nearly flat on the top, as are most mountains 

we have passed on this journey. After half-past nine 

we arrived at a tree, beneath which we reposed. From 

this spot we have an extensive prospect before us toward 

the south-west and west : the country is nearly level, 

with the exception of some low hills in the vicinity, 

and two or three higher ones at a distance in the west 

— the mountains of Argobba, and perhaps of Shoa. 

Thermometer now, at half-past eleven, at 97". Left 

Lukki at three p.m., and ascended the plain, which was 

overgrown with grass, in a south-western direction. 

Mahomed Ali saw a hysena on the road, and a dark grey 

snake of considerable size. We marched till nearly 

seven o'clock, when we rested on a level spot in the 

plain of Killele. 



May 11 — We started at one in the night, in order 

to make a good journey to-day ; but we had not pro- 

ceeded far, when we and our animals got into the mud. 







APPROACH OF A IIY.EXA. 33 



The rain wliicli fell here yesterday, on the clayey soilj 

has changed it into mud. However, as we turned as 

far as practicable to the west, we soon reached a dry 

spot ; and thence took a more northern course, till 

we met with a new difficulty, and lay down to await 

day-break. Toward sunrise we noticed several herds 

of cattle in the valley, and a relation of Mahomed 

Ali, with a Soniah, came to salute him. At half-past 

seven we set out again, first north, then north-west, then 

west, and passed two large herds of fine cattle. Here 

we drank water and filled our leather bags. After 

another hour's march, arrived at Barudega, where we 

rested under a tree, but were annoyed by insects. By 

half-past eleven the heat rose to 103" : toward one 

o'clock a shower fell, and reduced the heat to 95°. 



May 12: Lord's Day — Yesterday, at half-past three 

P.M., we left Barudega, and, piu-suing our course south- 

west through the plain, drew near a low ridge of moun- 

tains, stretching south-east and north-west. Toward 

eight, we came to a place with trees, brush-wood, and 

water, where we halted and passed the night, as we 

could not now reach Gaiel, the village of INIahomed 

All's uncle, the Chief of the Debenik "We'ema. No 

sooner had we laid down, than Ernst awoke us, and in 

a great fright took up a sword and musket, pointing flt 

a beast of prey which he said had come near us, and 

which he thought was a lion. As it immediately began 

to howl, we discovered that it was a hyrcna. "Warkieh 

now kept watch, but soon feel asleep. ^)'hen we awoke 



c 5 







34 EXCESSIVE HEAT. 



in the morning, we noticed the traces of two hyfenas, 

which had crawled about our camp and close to our 

beds. Mahomed Ali, having been awakened by their 

noise, had chased them away by throwing a stone at 

them ; — a new evidence this, of the hand of God guard- 

ing us against such dangers, and the presumption of 

the flesh in fancying to be able to guard itself. 



It is already the third Lord's Day of our journey 

from Tadjurra, and the sixteenth since we left Cairo. 

To us it is indeed a great privation to be shut out from 

celebrating it in communion with our Brethren — wan- 

dering about as strangers in jNIesech, and our souls 

often longing in a strange country for the courts of the 

Lord. However, we are pilgrims for Him, and are per- 

suaded that He will amply compensate us for our actual 

privations. "Would that our present conversation were 

more sanctified ! We shall probably stop here to-day : 

either the people of the village are unwilling to receive 

us, or our guide has so agreed with them, that they 

come out to him, instead of our going to them. We 

do not lose much by not being among them, but per- 

haps escape their curiosit}^, and thus gain more quiet, 

which we desire, on the Lord's day. 



The heat threatens to become excessive again to-day ; 

about half an hour ago the thermometer showed 93° ; 

and now, a quarter-past ten, it is at 98°. At half-past 

one it rose to 107°: and at two to 108°. Mahomed 

All's uncle, to whom he had sent a few days since for 

some camels to assist him, had been out to meet us, with 







DAXKALI TRIBES. 35 



a horse or mulcj and some soldiers ; but as lie went the 

right road, and we travelled on a bye-way, he had 

missed us. Thermometer, at a quai'ter-past three p.m., 

108°. 



May 13, 1839 — Yesterday evening, after long vacilla- 

tions, Mahomed Ali at length resolved to go into the vil- 

lage. We started at about half-past five, and entered the 

village, which was only a quarter of an hour's distance 

from our camp, and seated ourselves in front of the 

house and stable of the Dankali Chief, the uncle of 

our guide. At this moment we are thronged by men 

and boys of this country, whom curiosity has attracted 

to see us. Thermometer, at a quarter-past seven, 

8,2° : at half-past eight, 85°. 



The name Adaiel, for the Dankali people, is the 

Arabic mode of calling the whole by a part. It is de- 

rived from Ad Alb, one of the Kabyles of the Danakil, 

to which the Sultan of Tadjurra belongs. The chief 

seat of this tribe is in the neighbourhood of Shoa; but 

the greater part is dispersed among diiFerent other 

tribes. Formerly it was probably the most powerful 

of any, and gave the name to the whole of its former 

dominion. Apparently, the most powerful tribes at 

present are the Mudaitus and Debcnik We'ema. The 

former have their chief seat in Aussa, and sometimes 

get in collision with the We'emas and the rest of the 

Danakils. They are seemingly more numerous and 

powerful than any other Dankali tribe. The name 

Dankali is Arabic : they call themselves Affar. Thcr- 







36 ARTICLES OF BARTER. 



mometer, at half-past ten, 98° : a quarter-past eleven, 

105°: at noon, 1052°: seven minutes after one, 108^°: a 

quarter before two, 109": half-past tvi'o, 110°: at three, 

106°. For the last few days we have generally had 

several w^hirlwinds in the afternoon. When at Lukki, 

we observed many about noon ; it then rained in the 

afternoon. 



7lfa^l4, 1839 — We set off from Gaiel, and ascended 

an eminence about two hours from Gaiel, in a south-west 

direction. Here we encamped near the Avatering-place 

AHbekele, where the herds of cattle belonging to the 

Bedouins of this region assemble to drink. Ther- 

mometer, a quarter-past two, at 103° : a quarter to 

three, 101|° : then 101°, as a thunder-storm is ap- 

proaching : at three, 99°. 



May 15 — We did not leave Alibekele, as IMahom- 

ed Ali sent this morning for his father, because 

there is plenty of water here, but none at the place 

of his residence. The trade in these countries is car- 

ried on by barter. What they call Nile stuff, that is 

to say, blue-dyed bad bafta, and grey Indian Kosh 

(linen), are given as money for larger articles. SLxteen 

native yards of the latter are required for a dress : the 

former is used by the women to cover the head. For 

Kosh we bought a sheep ; for Nile stuff, butter ; and 

for pepper and needles, milk. Thermometer, at a 

quarter-past seven a.m., at 87° : ten minutes before 

eleven, 99" : a quarter-past eleven, 1021" : a few 

minutes after, 106°. 







REMARKABLE DELIVERANCE. 







37 







Mmj 16— Every night we are visited by hysenas, 

wliicli generally venture close to our beds; but although 

we have kept watch several times, we have not yet 

succeeded in killing one. Our guide, Mahomed Ali, 

asserted yesterday evening, that leopards never inha- 

bit the same region with hysenas. As we contended 

against this, he related, that, in his travels, he once 

saw a leopard with a sheep in his jaws, encounter a 

hyana : the leopard fled to a tree, and the hysena, 

unable to follow him, kept watch beneath. At last, 

the leopard, seeing the people coming at a distance, 

came down ; when the hycena fell upon him, and tore 

him and the sheep to pieces, which were found by 

the people when they arrived at the spot — the hyrena 

ha'iug taken to flight at the approach of men. He 

assui-ed us that hysenas are much stronger than leo- 

pards ; but that they flee from man : whereas leopards 

attack man, although they never make head against a 

hysena. This may serve to confirm a fact which 

the Rev. S. Gobat is said to have related among his 

friends, as an instance of a remarkable deliverance 

when he slept between a leopard and a hyrena, 

Ijoth at a short distance from him : the hyana 

having restrained the fierceness of the leopard during 

the whole night. In the morning, he said, he threw a 

stone at the hyaena, whereupon the leopard went away 

of his own accord. 



Regarding the Issa Somals, both Mahomed Ali 

and Ali iVrab stated that they are malicious — that they 







38 CHARACTER OF THE ALLA GALLAS. 



steal and murder. Sometimes two or three of them 

go on a robbing expedition^ and providing themselves 

with victuals for several months, secrete themselves in 

ambush along the road, and lurk for travellers who may 

happen to separate themselves from the caravan, to as- 

sail and kill them. They are on pretty good terms 

with the Debenik We'emas ; who, however, are on their 

guard against them. They serve the Alia Gallas as 

leaders against the Danakils, when not in hostility with 

each other. They say that the Alia Gallas, through 

the midst of whom we have to travel for four or five 

days, are a very dangerous people,* Ali related that 

on a jom-ney through their country, their caravan hav- 

ing encamped, with theii* arms in readiness, and while 

keeping watch, late in the night they observed a single 

Galla approaching their camp, crawling on his belly, 

and in the act of raising his lance to kill a man of 

the caravan. They then rose to seize him; but he 

escaped. — Bows and poisoned arrows are still in use 

among the Somals. Fire-arms are yet little knowTi 

among these savages. When Brother Krapf fired his 

pistol, they screamed, and stooped down. They are 

bigoted jNIahomedans. Yesterday, one of them came into 

our tent to look at our things. As he was prevented, 

he pronounced the words, " La illaha ilFallah," which I 

repeated after him. He continued, "AVaMahomed Russul 

Ullah,^^ repeating it several times, as he saw that I did 



* The sequel shows, however, that this was not the case. 







DEPARTURE FROM ALIBEKELE. 39 



not say it after him. Then I said, " Wal Messicli ibn 

Allah." Upon this he rose, and went out. Mahom- 

ed Ali several times expressed his surprise that the 

Ulemas at Cairo had not persuaded us to become Ma- 

homedans. The principal seat of their learning seems 

to be Aussa; where they say several Ulemas reside, 

whose learning, according to Ali Arab, is as the sea. 

Thermometer, at six in the morning, 78° : at eight, 

86" : at nine, 88°. 



Yesterday we were again permitted to experience 

that the Lord was with us in His Spirit of discipline, 

purifying our conversation and common relationship. 

May He ever rule among us, and never withdraw His 

grace from us ! 



About an hour ago, ^lahomed Ali's father arrived 

on a mule, and without escort. He has not yet been 

in our tent ; but has sent us a handful of coffee-seeds, 

with the message, that we should prepare some coffee, 

as he would drink it with us. Thermometer, at a quar- 

ter-past ten, 91 3° : ten minutes past eleven, 100° : at 

noon, the sky overcast, 98° : at one, 105i° : after ten 

minutes more, 107°. 



May 1 7, 1839 — We left AUbekele yesterday afternoon 

at three, ascending westward, and in half-an-hour were 

overtaken by a shower. After stopping till it was 

nearly over, we made our way with difficulty through 

the mud. Toward seven we arrived at a spot called 

Adaito, where wc passed the night. As my coverlet 

was quite soaked through, I had to make the best of 







40 MOUNTAINS OF HORROR. 



my shirts and sheets during the night. The father of 

Mahomed AH brought us milk^ which Mas quite a 

refreshment. We started this morning about seven. 

Our course lay over a stony plain with much grass^ on 

which we saw many herds and singing birds. At half- 

past eight we reached Hasnadera^ the residence of 

Sheik Ali, Mahomed All's father, where we halted, 

l^liile pitching our tent, some children brought ns 

grass to strcAv beneath it, for which they begged coral. 

When the tent was erected, a bag of curdled milk was 

brought to us. We shall stay here at least this day ; 

and then a new period of our journey will probably 

begin with om* new guide. The Lord be praised, who 

has helped us thus far ! Though not without troubles, 

yet we are still spared ; though not without sins and 

temptations, yet with obvious proofs of His continued 

favor and mercy we have got on hitherto. 



On the road this morning, I stayed alone with the 

Lord, and stood before Him, like Jacob of old at the 

ford of Jabbok, and He blessed me. 



Yesterday evening we saw the mountains of Horror 

before us, toward the south-west, covered with clouds. 

The town of Horror is said to be only two and a half 

days' journey distant from this. We are already in the 

neighbourhood of the Alia Gallas ; who have expelled 

Sheik Ali Abe from Errer, and spread themselves as 

far as that district. Terrible people ! seeking their 

honour in murder ! On asking our guide yesterday, w^hy 

the Gallas kill people, whether for booty or otherwise. 







GREAT IIASNADERA. 41 



he said, " Their only honour and riches consist in the 

number of their slain enemies. In other countries, one 

inquires after the wealth, rank, or condition of a per- 

son, in order to honour him ; but among the Gallas one 

asks only how many men he has butchered.^^ ^^ by 

should we withhold the Gospel of mercy from these 

wretched slaves of Satan ? Within two days more we 

shall reach them ; and five days it will take us to pass 

through the midst of them, before we come to the 

Hawash. Thermometer this morning, at half-past 

nine, 90° : near ten, 94°. The AVe'ema Danakil maintain 

about ]00 Somal bow- men, who have been taken from 

various Somal tribes, and are now naturalized among 

them : they still preserve, however, their Somal tongue, 

and marry among themselves, without intermixing with 

the Danakils. The Danakils regard shooting as unlaw- 

ful, and therefore employ the Somals in it. They seem 

to cany on bloody wars sometimes among themselves. 

The same is also said of the Somals. Thermometer, at 

a quarter-past twelve, 104° : a quarter to one, 107° : at 

two, 110.^°. 



May 18, 1839 — Yesterday evening, Mahomed Ali 

endeavoured to procure an additional camel; saying, that 

the four we had were not sufficient as we should 

henceforward travel quicker. This morning, at half- 

past six, we set off from Little Hasnadera, and con- 

tinuing our course south-west over the plain, which 

was gradually rising. We reached Great Hasnadera at 

half-past ten, where we halted, as Mahomed Ali said 







42 ARRIVAL AT MULLU. 



that we were to pass the night here. Thermometer at 

half-past two, 106° ; sky overcast. 



May 19^ 1839: Lord's Day — On this clay, European 

Christians commemorate the effusion of the Holy 

Spirit, and the Church is refreshed here and there by 

a new outpouring of the same ; while we here at 

MuUu, about an hour and a half west from Great 

Hasnadera, om* present place of repose, must pitch our 

tent in Kedar. May the Lord pour also upon us a 

shower of mercy, and revive the scorched soil of our 

hearts ! that the blessed stream from the heavenly 

altar may also flow to this dead sea of nations, and 

renew them ! 



Yesterday evening, at ten minutes before six, we 

left Great Hasnadera ; and moving westward, over very 

stony gi'ound, reached jIullu, where Shiek Ali has his 

chief residence, at half-past eight. Mullu is nothing 

but a vast plain covered with stones, with here 

and there a little verdure and a few mimosa trees, 

and some scattered sprig hovels. A cluster of such 

huts form something like a village. As our guide, 

Mahomed Ali, declared he would stay here to-morrow, 

and we are to pursue our road, we are wi-iting Letters 

to go by him. Hitherto I have travelled on foot ; but 

as a mule has been offered me to-day by the old man 

for fifteen dollars, to be paid for hereafter, I have 

accepted it for myself and Warkieh, as he also begins 

to find walking difiicult. 







CHAPTER III. 







TAKE LEAVE OF MAHOMED ALI — DEPARTURE FROM MULLU — NOTICE OP 

A SKIRMISH BETWEEN THE DEBEMK WE'eMAS AND THE MUDAITUS 

— ARRIVE AT JIETTA — LEAVE METTA, AND ENCAMP AT HAMCISSA — 

ARRIVE AT LITTLE MULLU — ELEPHANT HUNTING — DEPARTURE FROM 

LITTLE MULLU, AND ENCAMP AT BERDUDA — NOTICE OF THE DANKALI 

TRIBES INHABITING THESE REGIONS — LEAVE BERDUDA, AND CROSS 

THE PLAIN HALAKDIGGI— ABUNDANCE OF GAME -ARRIVE AT THE 

RIVER HAWASH — NOTICES OP IT — VISIT TO A LAKE WEST OF THE 

HAWASH — DEPARTURE FROM MELKUKUYU AND ARRIVE AT THE 

VILLAGE OF FARRI — DEPARTURE FROM FARRI, AND ARRIVE AT ALUI 

AMBA — INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR — DEPARTURE FROM META- 

TIT — ARRIVAL AT ISLAM AMBA — VISIT TO THE KING, AND KIND RE- 

CEPTION BY HIM — ARRIVAL AT ANGOLLALA — INTERVIEWS WITH THE 

KING — HIS DESIRE FOR MEDICINE — BECOME ACQUAINTED WITH MAR- 

ETSH, AN INFLUENTIAL GOVERNOR OF THE ABEDTSHOO GALLAS — 

INSTANCES OF THE KINC/s SELFISHNESS — DEPARTURE OF THE KING 

FOR ANGOLLALA — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST OF BULGA ON FASTING 

— ABYSSINIAN CHRONOLOGY — VILLAGES AROUND ANGOLLALA — EXCUR- 

SION TO THE RIVER TSHATSHA — DEPARTURE FROM ANGOLLALA, AND 

ARRIVAL AT ANKOBAR. 



May 20 — This mornings IMaliomcd Ali consigned 

us over to the guidance of liis father for the succeed- 

ing part of our journey ; in which transaction, which 

was conducted rather formally, Ali Arab acted as Tar- 

giman. We separated as friends. The way before us 

is apparently hazardous ; not only on account of the 

Gallas, whose northern boundaries we shall have to 







44 TAKE LEAVE OF MAH0:MED ALL 



touch, but particularly on account of the hostile IMutlia- 

tuSj along whose southern border our route lies. On 

this account, Sheik Ali declared he would take an 

escort of his people, for safety's sake. We should 

have set out this morning ; but as there is no 

water at the next stage, water was sent for, to load a 

camel. The old man made a strange remark : he said, 

that the road by which we came was generally destitute 

of water ; but that, on account of our object, no w^ant 

of water had been permitted on this occasion. 

Thermometer, at half-past eight a.m., 92° : at one p.m., 

106" : at two, 103°. 



May 22, 1839 — Yesterday, our guide left us : to him 

we gave letters for INIocha, Cairo, London, Basle, and 

Barmen. We left Mullu about sunrise, and moving 

south-west over a plain, arrived, at half-past nine, at a 

place called ^Vuderdera, about two houi's and a half 

distant from ]Iullu. Thence we set out at about half- 

past three p.m., and jom'ueyed south-west till eight, 

when the old man said we could not reach the water 

stage, Korde'eti, that night. This morning, half an 

hour after we started, we arrived at the water stage, 

Korde'eti, where we took in a supply, and also watered 

the animals. Pi'oceeding onward, we soon reached the 

village Korde'eti, and alighted after we had passed it. 

Before us, to the north-west, we saw the Baadu and Aialu 

mountains. Those of Aialu are of considerable height. 

Ali Ai-ab stated, that on some part of these mountains 

a bloody sku'mish had taken place last year, between 







PROSPECT FROM METTA. 45 



the Debcnik We'emas and the Mudiatus ; in which the 

latter had 700 killed, the former 140. IMahomed 

Ali's statement varied in the number : he said, Mudai- 

tus 1500, We'emas 120. In their wars, the Debenik 

Vv'e'emas always make common cause with the Issa 

Somals against the Mudaitus, in which event the Issa 

Somals amount to one third of their number. South- 

west of us is the Gcbel Achmar, or the Galla moun- 

tains. The land between us and that mountain is an 

undulating plain, said to extend from the banks of 

the Hawash as far as Berbera. Thermometer, at one 

P.M., 110". 



May 23 — We remained yesterday at Korde'eti, it 

being the last place of the tribe of We'cma. Here we 

drank milk, and our new guide Sheik Ali engaged 

some people of the place to accompany vis ; because, 

he said, the journey before us was very dangerous, Wc 

started this morning about a quarter-past five, and 

descended gradually, in a south-west direction through 

the valley, till half-past nine ; then stopped at the dry 

bed of a small brook in the plain, along which numer- 

ous mimosas were growing, and put uj) under a large 

tree of this kind. The name of this stage is Metta. 

Thermometer, near eleven, 98". At this very moment 

we see, at about a quarter of an hour^s distance, several 

whirling columns of dust, like smoke ; giving the 

countrjf the appearance of a manufacturing town with 

numerous huge steam-engines at work. The air is 

very hazy ; and there is a mist on the ground, seeming 







46 HAMUISSA. 



to cover the mountains from top to bottom. Thermo- 

meter, at half-past twelve, lOS- : wind north-east, 

warm. 



Mmj 24, 1839— We left Metta yesterday at half-past 

three p.m. ; and marching almost west over the plain 

where we have put up, passed by the village Metta, 

and afterward saw herds of large and small cattle. 

After seven, we came to the village Kummi ; and about 

an hour later, encamped near a deserted and ruined 

village of the Bedouins. Although we were in want 

of water, and the watering-place, as the people said, 

was yet at a great distance, still the old man could not 

be induced to proceed. Consequently, we lay down to 

rest, and set off this morning at a quarter-past five ; and, 

pursuing our course over the same plain, west-south- 

west, saw to the left, at a little distance. Mount Afrabat ; 

to the west of which is joined the small mountain Farsis ; 

and north-west of this ]Iount Assabot ; all inhabited 

by Ittoos. To the right we saw the high land of Shoa 

and Efat. The plain on which we travelled terminated 

in a dale overgrown with grass and trees. Here we 

passed a village inhabited by Dabanis, and gained an 

eminence, where we met a woman and her child riding 

on a camel, laden with her Bedouin tent. She showed 

us the way to the encamping place of a caravan, M'hich 

was awaiting our an-ival. At about half-past ten we 

reached this stage, situated near the watering-place, 

Hamuissa, from which this whole region derives its 

name; and here we found the caravan. They left 







VILLAGE OF LITTLE Ml'LLU. 47 



TadjuiTa on the day of our arrival there, and did not 

arrive here till yesterday evening. Our people had 

long been desiring to join them; and therefore sent 

word to them yesterday, in consequence of which they 

said they had waited for us to-day ; otherwise, they 

would have gone on before. We shall now most likely 

travel together the rest of our journey : oiu* new com- 

panions say they will henceforward travel quicker than 

they have done hitherto. This region abounds with 

elephants, which come in great numbers to the water 

in the night, and suffer no man to approach it. The 

caravan entreated us to shoot them ; but we felt no in- 

clination to do so. Thermometer this morning at five, 

69° : during the afternoon, 105°. Early in the morn- 

ing it is very cool : the warm winds generally blow till 

late in the night. 



May 25, — We started this morning at six, and 

moved nearly due west, over a fine plain full of grass and 

trees. Since yesterday, we have noticed a large fii-e on 

this plain, which is not yet extinguished. On asking 

the cause of it, they said, that it came of itself. At 

nine, we put up near the village Mullu ; which is called 

Little Mullu, to distinguish it from Great Mullu. This 

village is surrounded by very high grass, reaching 

higher than the head of a man on horseback, and excel- 

ling in luxuriance the finest cornfields. It had been 

agreed upon, that we should repose here for the morn- 

ing, and resume our journey in the evening, to travel 

throughout the night, in order to reach the Hawash 







48 ELEPHANT HUNTING. 



soon : liowever, on arriving, we heard that we were to pass 

the night here, and not to set out before next morning, 

as the caravan was in fear of the G alias. They alleged 

that a battle was soon expected to take place between 

the Danakils and the Gallas ; and that as the Gallas 

make their invasions only by night, they chose rather 

to travel during the day. These people alter their 

statements so many times, that one cannot rely on 

them ; and by being so apprehensive, give evidence of 

the truth, that he who does not know and serve the 

True God, can have no confidence in Jiis ideal God. 



To-day we happened to have a little elephant-hunt- 

ing. Soon after we had encamped, four of these ani- 

mals, three small ones, and one of a larger size, were 

seen near the camp imder a tree in the grass. The 

people entreated iis for a long time to shoot at them ; 

the more so, as they were afraid of their causing some 

damage to the men or the beasts. We observed them 

for some time, from a tree, standing and swinging their 

broad flapping ears, and tlirowing up dust with their 

trunks, as if to defy us. At length, Warkieh, who had 

been engaged at other times in elephant-hunting, 

grew impatient, took a gun, and went toward them, 

accompanied by Brother Krapf and Ernst, who station- 

ed themselves under a tree at a certain distance from 

the elephants. Warkieh, however, was the only one 

who could shoot, as the grass was too high for the 

others. He fired twice with Brother Krapf s double- 

barrelled gun ; and, at the second shot, hit the larger 







REFLECTIONS. 49 



elephant, who shook himself. U])on this, a smaller 

one, which stood under another tree, took to his heels ; 

and then all fled away. 



This region apparently abounds in wild beasts. We 

bought a zebra-hide for live needles and a few pepper- 

corns. The zebra was said to have been killed here- 

abouts ; and our people pretended to have heard the 

voice of one last night. We got plenty of milk to-day, 

for needles, pepper, and snuff. The people were par- 

ticularly eager for the snuff. All day we are surrounded 

by people : their conduct, however, is not at all extra- 

vagant. It is a pity that we cannot declare to them 

the tidings of the Gospel. Thermometer, at half-past 

four P.M., 102". 



May 26, 1839 : Lord's Day — To-day we have again 

had an undesired-for day of rest ; as the caravan whicli 

we joined the day before yesterday have desired our 

people to stay here till they obtain some camels, for 

which they have sent to a neighbouring village. As we 

objected to staying, our people observed, that we were 

under some obligation to the caravan, as they had first 

waited for us, in order that we might travel together 

through this dangerous country ; so we have agreed 

to wait till this afternoon, and then to proceed, should 

the caravan obtain the camels or not. They are all in 

gi'eat fear; because yesterday three Mudaitus wci'c 

here, whom they apprehendcid to be spies. 



The German hymn, " My Saviour receiveth sinners," 

is now continually upperaiost in mind; and it is particu- 



D 







50 PLAIN OF BERDUDA. 



larly consolatory for me to know that the blood of Jesus 

Christ cleanseth me from all my innumerable sins which 

still cleave to me. To whom could I direct myself, in 

order to find rest and safety, if this blood did not con- 

stantly speak better thijigs than that of Abel ? The 

tvhole head is sick, and the ivhole heart faint. Sancti- 

fication advances so slowly, that it seems rather to re- 

trograde. Nevertheless, the Lord has called me to 

glorify Him before the world. 



The constant necessity of insisting upon the fulfil- 

ment of the stipulated agreements with om- fellow-tra- 

vellers, in order to prevent unnecessary delay, gives 

much nourishment to the natm-al man, and many occa- 

sions for the excitement of unholy passions. This, 

however, is our consolation, that the Lord is ever ready 

to receive us back, and does not take away from vis His 

Holy Spirit — the spirit of faith, of power, and disci- 

pline. — Thermometer yesterday evening, near nine 

o^ clock, 73°: this morning, after sunrise, 66*. The night 

was pretty cool, although the day was hot : ten minutes 

past eleven, 104o, Diseases of the eyes are vei-y com- 

mon in this country, no doubt occasioned principally 

by the dust, with Avhich the atmosphere is constantly 

tilled. A strong whirl of dust came about our tent, 

and overtm-ned it, just after we had left it. 



Ma7/ 27, 1839 — Yesterday, at three p.m., we left Little 

Mullu, and journeyed again over a large plain, which at 

first we found covered with high grass, and afterward 

with scattered bushes : the soil on the whole appeared 







DANKALI TRIBES. 51 



fertile. Now and then we met also with an elephant. 

We marched till half-past eighty and passed the night 

at Berduda — so another part of this vast plain is called. 

Here several Bedouins had set up their huts, but most 

of them left again this morning. Some Chiefs of another 

Dankali tribe — Takil — came to us, to beg tobacco. 

This, as it appears, induced our old guide Ali to hasten 

away the sooner. Other Dankali tribes, inhabiting these 

regions, are the following : — to the west of the We'emas, 

the Dabanis, who extend very far; in the district of Ha- 

muissa, the Mashaikh and Hassoba, among whom also 

the Takils live. 



We left Berduda this morning at half-past five, and 

crossed the other part of the plain, Ilalakdiggi, W^e 

saw much game, especially large roes, also two ostriches ; 

and, a little before nine, arrived at a place called Hanni, 

where we found water and trees, and here reposed. 

Our people, as well as the caravan who accompany us, 

are in great fear of an attack, and urge us continually 

to have our guns in readiness. We occasionally tell 

them of the necessity of a higher protection ; but all 

men have not faith in such a protection. Our journey 

is, after all, very tedious and trying. Our course, at 

present, is almost due west. The night again cool. 

Thermometer, at half-past twelve p.m., 100". 



May 28 — We started at ten minutes ])ast two at 

night, and marching westward, over a barren part of the 

plain, soon arrived at Great Halakdiggi : thence we 

crossed an eminence, shortly after sunrise, from which 



D 2 







52 RIVER HAW ASH. 



the mountains of Shoa clearly presented themselves to 

our view. We felt our hearts tuned to praise our God, 

who had mercifully guided us until now, and brought us 

so near to the close of our perilous journey. From this 

eminence we descended into the low country of Little 

Halakdiggi, where our caravan was to halt. Sheik Ali, 

however, was for going on ; and he prevailed. After 

passing through the valley of Little Halakdiggi, we as- 

cended a hill belonging to the chain of mountains 

which forms the eastern skirt of the valley of Hawash ; 

then came down into the deep and wide valley of the 

Hawash, in which we had been able to discern, from the 

eminence, some parts of the course of this river. At 

the foot of the mountain the road lay through a forest 

of mimosa trees, from which our people collected a good 

quantity of gum-arabic ; and then encamped on a spot 

called Debhille, near which the trees on one side of the 

valley are hung with the nests of small birds, some- 

times forty to fifty on one tree. 



Mai/ 29, 1839 — We started at a quarter-past four 

this morning, and pursuing a south-west course to the 

Hawash, reached that river at a quarter-past six, by a 

road winding through a fine forest, abounding with 

plants and various kinds of animals. Numerous herds 

of elephants apparently reside in these regions, as we 

often found the fresh traces of them on our road. We 

also heard the braying of a zebra, and the noise of hip- 

popotami by the shores of the Hawash; but saw neither. 

In crossing the Hawash, I saw some trees crowded with 







VISIT TO A LAKE. 53 



baboons, an animal I had not seen before in Abyssinia. 

We crossed the Hawash near Melkukuyu. Although 

this is the dry season, yet the water was from two to 

four feet deep. The breadth of the channel is about 

sixty feet ; and the heights of its banks, as far as we 

could judge, averaged fifteen to twenty feet. Both sides 

are covered with beautiful forests ; the breadth of which 

however, in this part, is inconsiderable. The river runs 

north and north-east. We could not ascertain the 

situation of its source. The shore to the right is in- 

habited by the Alias, Ittoos, and Mudaitus; and to 

the left, by the Danakils, who border on Shoa eastward. 

From this part, where it has the Argubbas on one side, 

and the jMudaitus on the other, the river flows as far 

as Aussa ; and there collects in a vast plain, probably 

because the land ceases to decline, and forms a large 

lake, the waters of which either evaporate, which is 

more probable, or escape by a subterranean outlet. At 

this place the water is said to be putrid, to emit an 

offensive smell, and is disagreeable to the taste ; but, 

on digging near the lake, good water may be obtained. 

On the maps, which in general mark oui- road incor- 

rectly, the Ittoos, among other errors, arc made to in- 

habit the western, instead of the eastern shore of the 

Hawash, south of om' route : farther south, the Abarras 

adjoin them ; and still farther, the Alias, and other 

Galla tribes. At noon, after dinner, we went to see a 

small lake west of the Hawash, which is about ten 

miles long and five broad. There we saw as many 







54 LAKE LE ADOO. 



as a hundi'ed hippopotami playing in the water. We 

fired a few guns at them : after each shot^ they sud- 

denly plunged into the water; and on coming up 

again, they blew a stream of water out of their nostrils, 

like whales, and snorted like horses. There are also 

many crocodiles in this lake — ^leviathan and behemoth 

dwelling together. Our people pierced a crocodile nine 

feet long, which lay in the water near the shore. This 

region is very prolific for a natm'alist. 



May 31, 1839 — Yesterday morning, at a quarter-past 

four, we set off from Melkukuyu, and marched over a 

hilly track near a small lake, the waters of which have a 

disagreeable taste and sulphureous smell. On account of 

its remarkable cleansing quality, our people had washed 

their clothes very clean in it the preceding day : we 

could not bestow on it a closer examination. As we 

proceeded, we first met with a few hysenas, then a zebra, 

but all beyond the reach of our guns. The region 

through which we have come is called Dofan. After 

passing through several forests abounding with game, 

and rendered lively by the warbling notes of a great 

variety of birds, about nine we reached a larger lake, 

in which hippopotami are said to abound ; but we 

did not see one. Its name is Le Adoo (far-distant 

water). Thence we pursued our road westward, and 

alighted about eleven at Asseboti, in a large sandy 

plain full of acacias. Setting out again at half-past 

three p. m., we left the caravan behind, and encamped 

in the evening at Atkonti. On the road we saw several 







INTERVIEW WITH HAJI ADAM. 55 



be'ezas, a fine animal of the size of a cow, and shaped 

like a deer, with horns, not branching, but upright : 

their flesh is exquisite. This region resembles a cactus 

garden. We started at a quarter-past foui- this morn- 

ing ; and after sunrise entered a fine valley called Ko- 

kai, with lofty trees, excellent water, abundance of 

cattle, and a great variety of birds. Mter crossing 

several hills, the prominences of the highlands of Abys- 

sinia, which extend from the south far northward, 

about eight we reached the fi-ontier place, Dinomali ; 

where we were visited, soon after our arrival, by Soli- 

man ]Iussa, the collector of customs, and Abbagaz INIa- 

homed, the governor of the boundary, who came to 

inspect our persons and baggage. They were accom- 

panied by Debtera Tekla Zion, the secretary for the 

salt-trade. During this transaction, the Haji Adam 

came, the same man whom Brother Krapf had seen 

last year in Mocha in the character of royal mes- 

senger, saying that he was again on his way to 

Mocha, and had a Letter and a female slave for us : he 

soon brought both. Om- conscience did not allow 

us to accept the slave, so she was sent back to Anko- 

bar. The Letter was directed to me : it respected the 

King's and my owti former mission ; expressed the 

King's desire for medicine, a gun, masons, &c., and, if 

possible, my own personal arrival ; and contained, at 

the same time, the promise, that all my wishes, which I 

should present to the King, should be gratified ; but 

made no allusion to our Missionary labours. This 







56 HOUSES OF ANKOBAR. 



meeting was quite providential, but connected with no 

small difficulty to us botli. A Letter was now despatched 

to the King, stating, that the two persons to whom the 

message of the Haji Adam was directed, had arrived. 

Quarters were then assigned to us in the village of 

Farri, till an answer should arrive from the King, when 

we might pursue om- jommey. 



June 2, 1839 — To-day we set off fi'om Farri, and began 

to ascend the high land of Shoa. We crossed a few 

promontories and valleys, the two rivers Hatshani and 

JIelka Jebdu, and reached a village and district called 

AHu Amba, situated on a steep rock, where we met the 

first Christian Governor, Yaunatu, who was glad to 

receive us as Christians. Here we were obliged to 

leave our companion Warkieh to rest a little till he 

should be able to follow us, as he had been suffering 

for several days from great pain in his back. 



Ju7ie 3 — To-day we took other porters and asses from 

this place, Aliu Amba — our jom*ney from Farri being at 

the King's expense — and ascended the high mountain, 

on one of the summits of which Ankobar, the capital of 

the country, is situated. We crossed over a ridge of 

this mountain, which commanded an extensive view on 

each side : toward the east, the vast plain over which 

we had come, and beyond the Hawash ; and toward 

the west Shoa, to a great distance. We went round 

one side of the summit on which Ankobar lies, and 

passed through a part of the town. The houses are 

constructed chiefly of wood, with thatched roofs, gene- 







VILLAGE OF METATIT. 57 



rally surrounded by a garden, and disposed around the 

cone in a spiral form. The upper part of the town is 

hedged in vriih long poles connected by sprigs as by 

pallisades, and on the top is the King's house, built of 

stone and mortar, with a thatched roof. The situation, 

the rich vegetation, in a cool vernal, or almost autum- 

nal, atmosphere, pvit us in an extasy. The King had 

given orders that we should be brought quickly to 

him, and as he was at Angollala, a day's journey from 

Ankobar, we could not remain. We passed over stony 

roads, on the side of some mountains, and crossed an 

elevated valley, through which a crystal rivulet purled 

which set in motion a mill, the construction of which, 

had been begun by a Greek mason, named Demetrius, 

by order of the King, but was not yet completed. 

We breathed alpine air, and drank alpine water. We 

then ascended another high mountain, where we met 

with many alpine plants, and camomile and pennyroyal 

densely strewed the ground. The top of the mountain 

was covered chiefly with barley fields, almost ripe for 

the harvest. We put up at a poor little village, called 

Metatit, in a straw hut, or rather stable, in which large 

and small cattle lay mixed together with men, and 

where the smoke arising from the burning of cow-dung 

and cane was so offensive, that only the cold without 

compelled me to sleep in it, while Brother Krapf and 

Ernst crept into a small round sheep-stall. The ther- 

mometer dm-ing the night could not have been umch 

above 40^ 



D 5 







58 INTERVIEW 



Ju7ie 7, 1839 — This morning we left Metatit^ and 

pursuing our road westward, over undulating table-land, 

halted about one o'clock p. m. in a raised valley near 

Islam Amba, where the King's tent, of an oblong form, 

and of black coarse stuff, was already pitched to re- 

ceive him, who was expected to come this way, and 

to pass the night here on his jom-ney from Angollala 

to Ankobar, to a tescar (anniversary) of the death of 

his father, Wussen Segged, who died twenty-eight 

years ago. AYe were not long encamped before we 

saw a train of horsemen coming down the mountain 

westward, and in the midst of them the King, over 

whose head a scarlet canopy was carried. He had no 

sooner arrived in his tent than he sent for us. We 

had prepared our presents, and with palpitating hearts 

entered his tent, where he sat on a small di^'an covered 

with silk, and received us mth kindness. Oui* names 

were already kno^vn among his people ; and a messen- 

ger whom he had once sent with Kiddam Mariam to 

Gondar to meet us, inquired after JMr. Blumhardt. I 

first presented to him the Letter of Colonel Camp- 

bell, which I had translated into Amharic on board 

the vessel : he perused it ^^"ith attention. We then de- 

livered oui' presents, among which the beautiful copy 

of the Amharic New Testament and Psalms particu- 

larly pleased him. He seemed to intimate, however, 

that he would have preferred ^thiopic books to Anilia- 

ric. He asked if we had ^^Titten and bound these 

books. He put the same question to Mr. Krapf when 







WITH THE KING. 59 



he presented him his double-barrelled gun. We rc- 

phed, that in our country every one pm-sues his parti- 

cular profession, and that our vocation was exclusively 

the preaching of the Gospel, in which capacity we were 

alone sent out to this country ; but that besides this, 

we wished also to instruct his people in other useful 

branches, and were ready to assist such as should re- 

quire and wish it, with medical aid to the best of our 

knowledge. We m-ged, however, that this latter was 

not om' object, except as a means to fui'ther the know- 

ledge of Christ. He then ordered all the attendants to 

depart, and explaining to us his bodily ailments, asked 

whether we could relieve him. ^Ye promised gladly to 

do for him whatever lay in our power ; but added, that 

the result did not so much depend on the remedies as 

on the blessing of God, for which we wovdd pray. He 

then observed, that with regard to our principal object, 

he would have further conversation with us in future, 

as there were a gi-eat many things to be considered re- 

lative to this subject ; for the present, he wished only 

to see and salute us, and was very glad that we were 

here. He ordered us in the meanwhile to go to our 

tent and repose, and the follo^nng day to proceed to 

Angollala, where he would see us again immediately 

after his return from Ankobar. We were gratified with 

the reception we met with, and although the King did 

not for the present enter into om* principal object, wc 

have sufficient reason to thank God. He commanded 

his people to serve us, to treat iis as his guests and 







60 ARRIVAL AT ANGOLLALA. 



friends, and to provide us with every thing necessary. 

He also gave us a servant, who had strict orders to keep 

off from us all importunate people, that we might not 

be annoyed in any way. 



June 8, 1839 — This morning, very early, the King 

started with his suite for Ankobar, and we proceeded to 

Angollala, where we arrived at two p.m. Not long after, 

the King came back, immediately assigned to us a 

dwelling, and sent us a cow, which we killed. 



June 9 : Lord's Day — Very early this morning 

we were called by the King, who asked us for medi- 

cine. We told him, that our particular business was 

to teach and preach the Gospel, and that we were no 

learned physicians ; but that if he desired, we would 

assist him with medicine according to the best of om* 

knowledge. At the same time we took the opportunity 

to request him to give us a number of boys, in order 

that we might instruct them in the doctrines of the 

Bible, and in other useful branches of knowledge. He 

promised to comply ■v'ith our request. We thought it 

as well to make this application, in order to show him, 

at the commencement of our stay in his country, the 

good intentions we have for the welfare of his people. 



June 10 — Very early in the morning we were again 

called by the King, who repeated his desire for medical 

assistance. Om- conversation yesterday haing turned 

to geographical subjects, we took with us to-day a globe 

and maps, to give him an idea of Geography. He was 

pleased with all that we explained to him ; but at last 







TRIBE OF THE ABEDTSHOO GALLAS. 61 



he said, that he was too old to study such subjects. 

Mien we had retired to our lodging, Beru, the favoui-ite 

boy of the King, came to us and said, that we should 

not give medicine to anybody, else the people would 

come and molest us very much. 



June 12 — This afternoon we made our acquaintance 

with Maretsh, an influential Governor of the tribe of 

the Abedtshoo Gallas. As we wdsh to become acquaint- 

ed with the Galla people, we were glad to know him. 

He asked for medicine, which IMr. Isenberg promised 

to give him, if he would adhere to the diet which he 

prescribed to him. But as he refused to do this, he 

did not receive any medicine. The tribe of Abedt- 

shoo has its seat in the neighbom-hood of Angollala, 

from which place it is separated by the river Tshatsha. 

In the house of Maretsh we met with several boys, 

one of whom, Wolda Gabriel, expressed his wish to come 

to us for instruction. We asked him what he knew 

about Jesus Christ, and why he was called a Christian. 

He was confused, and said, " I do not know ; but I 

wish to be instracted by you." Mr. Isenberg then 

briefly related to him the history of Christ. This boy 

came several times afterward ; but at last he excused 

himself, saying, that he had business in the service of 

the King, and left ofi" coming for instruction, like many 

others, who came expecting to receive medicine, clothes, 

strings of silk, which they use in sign of their Chris- 

tian faith, scissors, knives, needles, &c. Begging is 







62 JLiDICIAL PROCEEDINGS. 



not SO frequent in Slioa as it is in Tigre ; but in gene- 

ral they liave the same character. 



We have had several interviews with the King the 

last three days. He wishes to make use of us as phy- 

sicians, architects, artists, &c. However, we told him 

that if we served him in these things to the extent of 

our power, which was veiy limited, we shoidd do it 

only for the sake of the Lord and His Gospel ; and 

requested him to give us an opportunity to preach the 

Gospel, and to instruct the youth. His usual reply is, 

" I know this, and shall consult with you about it by 

and bye." 



June 13, 1839 — This morning we met with the King 

at the place of judgment. He was sitting on an elevated 

spot, and the persons, who had complaints or business 

were standing at the entrance of the King's house. 

Four Judges sit to hear the complaints of the people, 

and decide upon them. If their decision should not 

please the King, he himself decides. In giving judg- 

ment, he spends several days every week. Ha'ing seen 

the manner in which the King gives judgment, we 

were then introduced to his workmen. Blacksmiths, 

weavers, and other tradesmen are gathered mthin a 

large place, where each of them performs the piece of 

work assigned to him; which, having finished, he is 

obliged to show to the King, who, if not pleased with it, 

orders him to improve it. Thus the King could in a 

short time improve the state of arts in his kingdom, if 

he had a few skilful tradesmen from Europe. 







INSTRUCTION IN GEOGRAPHY. 63 



June l-i — 16 — Since the King gave orders to us not 

to give away medicine^ we have been hke prisoners, not 

being able to converse with any one. However, we 

yield to these circumstances, if the King will only 

send us boys to instruct. In the meantime, we are not 

without business. I am occupied with iEthiopic and 

Amharic studies, and Mr. Isenberg is writing about 

Geography. Several days ago, the Alaca (director) of 

the Chm-ch of INIedhanalim at Ankobar was sent by 

the King, to study our language. Mr. Isenberg began 

to instruct him ; but after several lessons, he expressed 

his wish to be taught Geography. We had rather in- 

troduce to him biblical studies ; but his mind is still 

not di-awn to the great subjects of the Holy Scrip- 

tures. The name of this Alaca is Wolda Serat. It is 

remarkable, that we should have at first to do with an 

iUaca of a jNIedhanalim Church. At Adowah, the Alaca 

of Medhanalim, was the man who endeavoured to ex- 

pel us from the country ; and in Shoa, an Alaca of 

Medhanalim is our first scholar. Geography, it is true, 

is not enough to enlighten the Abyssinian people ; but 

we must act as circumstances require. If we cannot 

preach the Gospel in a direct way, wc must do it in- 

directly. To the various branches of knowledge. Scrip- 

ture truth may in many ways be legitimately connected. 

All is ours, if we are Christ's, who will in His own 

time open a way for freely preaching His word. 



June 17 — This morning, Beru, the King's boy, 

came, asking us, in the name of his master, whether 







64 INSTANCES OF THE 



we understood liow to prepare sugar and brandy. 

We answered as on a former occasion, and repeated 

our request to receive boys for the pui'pose of in- 

structing them; and that we would then serve the 

King as far as we could. Bern went away ; but re- 

turned immediately to fetch our kitchen-vessels, which 

the King wished to see. At the same time, he longed 

for a European dish, and begged us to wTite down as 

far as we knew how to prepare one. Having answered 

that we could not meddle with such matters, we re- 

quested our servant to serve the King in this respect. 

He was immediately called to prepare a dinner. The 

King is anxious to get from Europeans all that he 

sees and hears. It is, however, to be regretted, that 

he only endeavom's to consult his own personal ad- 

vantage and comfort, without reflecting upon the wel- 

fare of his people. Well qualified mechanics of all 

kinds are well received by the King; but they dare 

not expect European wages. They receive their daily 

maintenance, but that is all. I am sure that skilful 

artisans who are real Christians, would render great 

services to our Mission. How much the King seeks 

after his own interest, the following instances will 

prove. No man in Shoa, except the King, is allowed 

to prepare the Abyssinian hydromel, which is called 

Zatsli — prepared from water, honey, and a plant, 

named zadoa. Fm'thermore, an Albanese, whose 

name is Johanes, who was formerly a Mahomedan, and 

turned a Christian in Shoa, built a bridge over the 







/^.V 







king's selfishness. 65 



river Beresa ; but nobody^ except the King, is allowed 

to pass over it, even at the rainy season. This 

year fom* persons have been drowoied in the river. 

Farther, he levies high customs upon goods. From 

ten pieces of salt, he takes one ; from ten dollars, 

one is paid to him. By these measm-es commerce 

is stopped. Demetrius, a Greek, built a mill ; but 

nobody can use it. These are only a few instances 

among many others which might be mentioned. But 

it is to be hoped, that the King will discontinue 

such measures, when he has become more acquainted 

with Em'opeans. At present he is too narrow-minded, 

follo-snng the principles of all other rulers of Abyssinia. 

In some respects, he is inferior to them ; attacking, for 

instance, a Galla tribe without sufficient reasons, taking 

their property, and selling the captives as slaves to Tad- 

jm*ra. He repeats this cruel custom every year, when 

the rainy season is over. In this manner he has en- 

larged his dominions. The country which he has taken 

in war, is said to be thirty times greater than Shoa 

itself. 



To-day I sent the Amharic Spelling Book to the 

King, which I had finished yesterday. The King wishes 

for many things from us : he seems only disposed to 

decUne accepting the one thing needful. As he in- 

tends to set out after to-morrow on an expedition, we 

have urged him to give us previously a decision, as to 

how far he would assist us in our work, and to give us 

four or six bovs for instruction. 







66 FESTIVALS OF ST. MICHAEL 



June 18, 1839 — To-day is a festival of the Abys- 

sinians, that of St. Michael. On this clay the King 

gives clothes to his slaves, who are several hundi'eds 

in number. IVIany persons came before our house, 

begging for clothes. We offered them bread, which 

they refused to accept : others begged for medicine. 



June 19 — On learning that the King is about to leave 

Angollala, we repeated our request for boys to instruct 

them. He sent word, that he would send them from 

the city he intended to build in the tribe of the Abed- 

tshoo. Bekoo, the Governor of the Galla tribe, called 

Adai, applied for medicine, being tormented, as he ima- 

gined, by a bad genius. Mr. Isenberg bled him, after 

which he felt better ; but he soon fell back into his 

former state, which increased so much, that his people 

were compelled to tie him. 



June 20 — This morning the King set out to build 

a city. We took leave of him on the road. Observing 

us, he stood still a moment, and said, " How do you 

do ? " We praise God that He has disposed the heart 

of the King toward us. Before he left Angollala, he 

sent his boy several times, who said, that the King con- 

sidered us as his relations : yea, as brethren ; and that, 

henceforth, we should make him acquainted with all our 

requests, and he would attend to them. Knowing the 

expressions of the Abyssinians, we do not lay too much 

stress upon them ; however, we see his good feelings 

toward us. He has sent to us from time to time, a 

sheep, or a cow, or something else. As all the people of 







AND KIDAN MEHERAT. 67 



the King are obliged to go wdtli liim, several boys, with 

whom I had begun to read the Gospel of St. INIatthew, 

have left our instruction. Knowing how little can be 

done in instraction, if boys are not continually with us, 

we lu'ged the King many times to send boys with whom 

we could begin a regular course. The Alaca Wolda 

Serat comes every day, being much pleased with Geo- 

graphy. He is possessed of a good memory, and of 

much understanding ; but his heart is still far from the 

truth of the Gospel. 



June 21 — To-day it rained for the first time since 

our arrival in Shoa. Strong whirls of dust had pre- 

dicted its approach. We learned to-day, that the King 

is building a city, which he intends to call "■ Salaish.^^ 

When he builds a new city, he causes a long trench to 

be dug around the place where he mshes to build ; then 

constructs a wall, builds several houses of wood, and 

delivers the city to a new governor, having with him a 

number of soldiers. In this manner, the King intends 

to secui'e his frontiers against the inroads of the Gallas. 

Thus Angollala itself has arisen. New settlers arrive, 

a church is built by the King, and a large village is 

seen in a short time. 



June 22 — This day is the feast of Kidan Meherat. 

Several learned Abyssinians say, that God appeared in 

paradise before iVIary, and made a covenant with her, 

in consequence of which she should redeem the world. 

Others say, that Christ made this covenant with His 

mother, in the month of Februaiy, during the time of 







68 CONVERSATION 



sixteen days. How little do this people know of the 

real covenant of grace, which God has made from the 

beginning with mankind to bless it in Christ ! 



June 24, 1839 — This morning I i-equested my mule 

from Ayto Melkoo, the master of the horse ; to whose 

care the King had committed our mules. He refused 

to send it however, without having a special order from 

the King. Thus we are not masters of our property. 

Every thing, even the most trifling, is subject to the 

will of the King. A cup of wmo. cannot be given to a 

foreigner without his command. He has at present 

about two hundi'ed persons, who receive their daily 

maintenance from him. The daily maintenance is called 

Dirgo. 



June 26 — The Alaca Wolda Serat told us this morn- 

ing, that the Abyssinians are of opinion, that St. Mat- 

thew ^Tote his Gospel in Hebrew, St. Mark in Latin, 

and St. Luke and St. John in Greek. He then asked, 

whether we believed that Adam was seven years in the 

garden of Eden. We replied, that we did not know, 

as the Scriptm'es say nothing about it ; and that we did 

not acknowledge their book Senafehat, on which that 

opinion rests, as divinely inspired. AYe took this op- 

portunity of showing the great difference there is be- 

tween the Word of God, and that of men ; and how 

dangerous it is to mix both together. Our confession 

that we did not know, and that we are in these things 

not so wdse as the Abyssinians, who have another Bible 

than we have, confused him very much. When he went 







ON FASTING. 69 



away, a priest of Biilga called upon us, asking imme- 

diately — as most Abyssinians do — about fasting. We 

told him, that we did not forbid fasting, if a man felt 

himself disposed so to do ; that we declared it a great 

sin, if a man sought for his righteousness by fasting, 

as our justification comes only from the merit of Christ, 

which we apprehend by faith, resigning all our ot^i 

work ; and that if we seek our justification before God 

by fasting and other exercises, Christ would not then 

be our complete SaAaom*. The priest answered, " But 

Christ fasted j therefore we must do the same." I said, 

that Christ's fasting was meritorious ; that He did not 

command that we in all things should do the same, 

else we should also be obliged to die on the cross as 

he had done. We cannot follow Him in all that He 

did; because He acted, in many cases, as oiu- Mediator ; 

and that what He did as such, we have only to accept 

with a real faith, and to praise Him for the same. He 

requires, that we mourn for our sins, — that we seek 

His grace and the Holy Spirit, — that we flee from all 

sin, and hate all sinful thoughts, words, and works ; 

because these have caused numberless pains to Him in 

His meritorious fasting for us. Furthermore, Christ 

does not require that we should die on the cross, but 

that we should die to the sin which is in om- hearts. 

This is the real fast and the death which He requires 

from eveiy behever in Him. ^Ye then explained to 

him Matthew ix. 14 — 18., which we usually do, if the 

matter is about fasting, remarking, that a real believer 







70 CONVERSATION ON FASTING. 



does not follow the pharisees^ who fasted in order to 

be justified ; but that he followed Christ and His 

disciples — that Christ, the heavenly bridegroom, is in 

the hearts of believers, and always with them — that 

they look upon His merits, and know what He has done 

for them, and therefore they cannot mom-n ; but that if 

they mourn for their weakness and sinfulness, they 

know that they have an advocate ivith the Father, Jesus 

Christ the righteous. If they mom-n that they do not feel 

the presence of their master — as the Apostles mom-ned 

when their master was given into the hands of sinners 

— they know that He will come again and say to them, 

Peace he ivith you. "WTien Christ w^ent to heaven, it 

did not follow that He is not now wdth us, and therefore 

that we should fast, as the Abyssinians endeavom* to 

prove by the above-mentioned passage ; and that Christ 

is not far from us, but He is in om* hearts, if we accept 

Him in faith. But the Abyssinians, who have not Christ 

by faith, mourn as if He were far off, crucifying 

their flesh, not knowing the joy and peace of Christ ; 

and as if, by the mortification of their flesh, they would 

produce their reconciliation wdth God, which Christ had 

fully effected ; that the Abyssinians connect then* own 

righteousness with that of Christ, vmite Christ with 

Moses, grace mth the law, and the Spirit nth the flesh ; 

and that they are like those who put new wine into old 

bottles, and new cloth on an old garment, where the 

rent is made worse ; as we see with the Abyssinians, 

who, though they mortify then- flesh by fasting, are 







ABYSSINIAN CHRONOLOGY. 71 



living in all the sins of the flesh — in all fornication and 

lasciviousness. 



June 27, 1839— This day it rained very much. I 

felt my heart in a confused state, and longed for the 

grace of heavenly rain. 



June 28 — I asked the Alaca Wolda Serat about the 

country of Sidama, mentioned by Mr. Gobat in his 

Jom-nal. He told me, that he did not know any thing 

about that country; but that he thought it was Segama, 

from which country many slaves are brought to Shoa. 

He then asked about om- chronology. I told him that 

we count 4004- years before Christ. The Abyssinians, 

he said, count 5500 years before Christ, which they 

prove from Luke i. 26, And, in the sixth month, the 

angel Gabriel was sent from God unto Mary. I said, 

that I did not wonder at such an opinion, as the Abys- 

sinians had not a sound exposition of Scriptm-e to rely 

upon, as they either followed human books, or wTcsted 

the sense of the passages of the Bible. I then referred 

him to the genealogy in Genesis v. 



June 30 : Lord's Day — I went this morning to the 

church. We think it necessary to go often, partly that 

they may not accuse us as despisers of their chiu'ch ; 

partly to become acquainted with the people and priests; 

and partly that we may become well acquainted with 

the manner of their worship. On coming to the door 

of the church, I was obliged to pull off my shoes. 

Having entered the church, I was requested to sit at 

the side of the Alaca, and received a long stick, which 







72 ABSURD STORY. 



the priests cany with them, and on which they lean in 

church. All that they do in chm-ch, is to make a ter- 

rible bawling, which they call singing. Their hymns 

are contained in a book called Degua, which book is 

composed by an ancient teacher of their church, whose 

name is Fared, from Samien. In singing, they frisk 

and dance, beat together with their sticks, then with 

cymbals and di'ums. Their bawling is interrupted by 

reading a portion of Scripture. In fact, the whole 

seems to be rather a play than worship. 



July 1, 1839 — Very early this morning, I heard a 

loud cry in the neighbourhood of our house. On ask- 

ing what it was, I was told, that there were several 

persons who wished to make their complaints known to 

the King. They cried, Abiet ! Abiet ! It is the duty of 

the King's counsellors, who are called Wanberotsh, that 

is Deputies, to carry the complaints of the people before 

the King. In general, the four Wanberotsh decide 

themselves ; but they must always bring their decision 

before the King, who in other cases, relies upon them as 

his Deputies. With the cry, Abiet ! Abiet ! the Abyssi- 

nians connect a strange story. They say that the devil, 

on the day of judgment, mil cry in the same manner ; 

when the Lord will ask him what he requires from Him. 

The devil will answer, that the angels have taken from 

him a number of souls who belonged to him ; when the 

Lord will ask him their names, to which he will reply, "I 

do not know." The Lord vn[ then answer, "If thou dost 

not know the name of the thieves, I cannot help thee.'' 







CITY OF BULGA. 73 



Since the King returned to Angollala^ several boys 

have returned to us for instruction ; but the King did 

not perform his former promise of sending boys. 



July 2 — This forenoon, a servant of Berkie, the Go- 

vernor of Bulga, came to us asking for medicine. His 

master is a Gebi, that is, a favourite of the King. 

Bulga is a considerable city on the southern frontiers 

of Shoa, and the capital of the province, vt^hich is 

called Fatigar on our maps. It is a day's journey 

from Ankobar to Bulga. How slowly our work is 

going on ! The people are seeking help only for the 

body, without reflecting much on the salvation of the 

soul. We take refuge in the precious Word of God, 

and hear the Prophet complaining about the same. 

/ have laboured in vain, and have spent my strength 

for nought, and in vain ; yet surely my judgment is 

with the Lord, and my work ivith my God. Isaiah 

xlix. 4. 



July 5 — We were called by the King, begging us to 

give him a medicine which should secure him against 

being wounded in war. Wc replied, that we did n(jt 

know a medicine of this kind ; and that our people 

obtained victory by trusting in God, by keeping a good 

discipline in the army, and by employing skilful com- 

manders. This caused a short exposition respecting 

military exercises in our country. He was much pleased 

on being informed about the formation of our quarries. 

The conversation then turned to the subject of our 

steamers, locomotives, and rail-roads. He expressed 



£ 







74 VILLAGES OF ANGOLLALA. 



his astonishment at these works of human hands. 

After all, he apphed for magic sentences against sick- 

ness. Mr. Isenberg rephed, that this was a great sin, 

and entirely useless ; and that it was the duty of every 

sick person to put his confidence in God, and to use 

such remedies as God has given to men. 



July 6, 1839 — A man from Tigre, whose name is 

Akaloo, called upon us this afternoon. He has been 

several years in Shoa, and is often sent by the King to 

Gondar, and other places of Abyssinia. I learned 

from him, that in the neighbourhood of Ankobar, in 

a grove, there are a number of persons, about forty, 

who are followers of a sect called Tabiban. I suppose 

that they are Jews, of the sect of the Falashas in Am- 

hara. The people of Shoa are in great fear of them, 

like the people of Amhara, who consider the Falashas 

as sorcerers. Every skilful man in Shoa is called Ta- 

bib. I shall give more information of the Tabiban 

hereafter. 



July 7 : Lord's day — The Lord was near to my 

heart this morning in reading His Word. Though we 

are without the blessings which our European brethren 

have on this day, yet the Lord is not far from us when 

seeking after Him in humble prayer and meditation on 

His Word. The Apostle John, who was banished 

from the society of his brethren to the desolate Isle 

of Patmos, urns there in the spirit on the Lord's 

day. 



July 8 — On inquiring this afternoon after the names 







IXSTRUCTIXG ALACA SERAT. 7o 



of the villages around AngoUala, I received the follow- 

ing information : 1 . To the west is a village called 

Tsherkos. 2. Tophit to the north. 3. Daletsha to the 

north-east. 4. Koni biet, where formerly Gallas have 

been, who were converted by the present King of Shoa. 

5. Mutingensa. As nobody was with us, I began to 

read the Introduction to the Holy Scriptures, published 

by the Rev. Mr. Huber, of Basle. A well wTitten book 

of this kind in Amharic would be very useful to us. I 

may also remark, that a number of well written books 

in Amharic would be very desirable. It is not sufficient 

to put the Bible only into the hands of the people ; 

they are in want of books to illustrate its doctrines, 

else they read it only in the false hght of their 

traditions. If Messrs. Isenberg and Gobat could 

be charged by the Committee dui'ing their stay in 

Europe, to satisfy this want in some measure, a great 

senice would be rendered to the Mission in Shoa. 



To-day it is one month since om* arrival at Angollala, 

and to-morrow the King has settled that we should go 

to Ankobar. To-morrow we shall probably go as far as 

Debra Berhan, and from thence to Ankobar. 



Since I wrote the precechng, the King has employed 

me in instructing Alaca Serat — chief of the Church at 

Medhanalim, in Ankobar — whom he sent to us in- 

stead of the boys we had applied for, requesting us to 

instruct him. Upon asking the Alaca what he wished 

to learn, he said that he wished us to teach him our 

language. I began therefore teaching him English ; 



£ 2 







76 AKALOO DESIRES INSTRUCTION. 



but then I discovered that his next object was merely 

the learning the names of the letters in the Amharic 

alphabet. Those names are given in Ludolf s Gram- 

mar, but are at present very seldom known in Abys- 

sinia ; so that it appears to them a new thing. After 

I had given him those names, I took the Bible to read 

with him. He then said, he knew that : he wished to 

learn something that he did not know. I then began 

instructing him in geography, for which purpose I 

commenced translating Frank's Geography, contracting 

some parts, and enlarging upon others ; giving the 

Alaca, every day, one or two lessons in geography, and 

a few lessons in English. He takes an interest in 

geography. In the translation, I have arrived at the 

end of Europe ; and in teaching, I am come to Prussia. 

I endeavour to render even this a means of communi- 

cating the Gospel to him, continually praying that the 

Lord may open his eyes : it is difficult to penetrate 

through the thick veil of his mind. When treating 

on parts of the Scriptures, he has always several expla^ 

nations at hand ; so that the word does not impress 

him. At the same time he is rich, and increased with 

goods, and seems to have need of nothing. May the 

Lord open his heart ! 



A Tigrcan, of the name of Akaloo, frequently comes 

to us, saying, that he wishes to learn ; and expressing 

himself ready to accept every thing good that we may 

say to him. Yesterday and to-day the Lord enabled 

me to Itiy before him the subject of his salvation : 







GOOD WILL OF THE KING. 77 



yesterday, by removing every pretext for excuse, and 

applying the parable of our Lord on the talents 

entrusted ; and to-day, by especially urging on him the 

necessity of a real conversion, and of prayer to God for 

the enlightening of his mind. 



As for the King, he continually gives proofs of his 

good will toward us, sho^^ng at the same time, however, 

that it is in his temporal interest that he wishes to profit 

from what we know of the arts. On this account, he 

has several times applied to om- European servant to try 

what he knows. My knowledge of medicine does not 

entirely answer his desires, because he cannot take his 

usual diet when using medicine; nor does he receive any 

charming promises from me : on the contrary, he is told 

that the practice of medicine is with us only an incidental 

thing, not our chief object, although we have gained his 

confidence from some successful cases where we had 

administered medicine to others. At our last interview 

with the King, he promised, at our request, to send us 

boys to instruct them when at Ankobar. Our chief en- 

deavours are directed to our calling as Missionaries, and 

therefore we have been able at present to make but few 

enquiries into the nature of the country. Oui* external 

condition is rather singular : the King treats us quite 

as his guests, sending us daily our maintenance into 

our house, and has ordered our Guardian* to keep all 



* The Minister of Foreign Affairs, as you would call him, of the King 

of Shoa, has about 300 men in his service, who are to serve foreigners, 

and to be employed in messages for the King. These men are called Al- 







78 GALLA TRIBES. 



troublesome persons away from us. By this means we 

are not molested by disagi*eeable calls ; but, on the 

other hand, we are also prevented from frequently 

preachmg the Gospel iti season and out of season. 

We have, however, obtained a promise from the King, 

that such persons are not to be prohibited who express 

a desire to be instructed by us. 



The air here is pure, and the climate very fresh : the 

temperature varies from 47° to 60^ Fahrenheit, and 

since the middle of last month we have had rain once 

or t^ice every day. At that time the King went to 

Salaish, where he made the first preparations for the 

building of a new town, remained there one week, and 

then returned hither to Angollala. 



The language of this country has some dialectical 

difference from the Amharic, as spoken in Amhara and 

Tigre, several sounds being different, and several words 

having a different signification. I write as much as 

I can of the Dictionary, noting down the differences. 



July 11, 1839— The Tribes of Gallas to the south 

of Shoa, which are tributary to the King of Shoa, 

are: 1. Abedtshoo ; 2. Adai; 3. Soddo; 4. Abbo; 

5. Sebauj 6. Tshidda; 7. Afsala; 8. Golan; 9. Mesta; 

10. Maitsha. Betsho and Ferrer, Avhich are in the 

south, are not tributary. Thus I am informed by the 

son of Bekoo, Governor of the tribe Adai. 



July 12 — This afternoon we went on an excursion to 



frotsh — Affro, in the singular, which I have rendered " Guardian," not 

having been able to ascertain the exact meaning of the term. 







RIVER TSHATSHA. 79 



see the before-mentioned river Tsliatsha^ situated about 

four miles from Angollala. We saw one of its cata- 

racts, about seventy feet in height. On the way I saw, 

for the first time, Enset, a nice plant, which is described 

in Bruce^s Travels. The Abyssinians use it in baking 

bread, which is wrapped in it, and gives to it a particular 

scent, which I do not like. The water of the Tshatsha 

runs in a deep dale between two mountains. The rivers 

Beresa and Tshatsha are said to go to the Nile. The 

Tshatsha separates the Gallas from Shoa. Thus we are 

on the frontiers of the heathen. The Lord grant that 

this heathenish nation, which has its seat in the centre 

of Africa, may soon become a people of God ! I hum- 

bly and urgently beg the Committee to give their help- 

ing hand to this nation. The way to a great part of 

the Gallas is accessible since the way to Shoa has been 

opened. The access to the Gallas is easier from Shoa 

than from any other place. We know about forty tribes 

of them by name. A great number of them are tribu- 

tary to Shoa. The Gallas are in a low state of heathen- 

ism. They have not priests, like other heathens ; but 

are opposed to the introduction of a new religion. 

They know only about a Being, whom they call 

Wake. They have no system of religion. On par- 

ticular occasions, they sacrifice a cow, or sheep, to the 

Wake ; but they are not directed to do so by priests : 

it is a free-will offering. The language is common to 

all Gallas. All these things seem to facilitate a Mission 

among them. A particular reason for attempting a 







80 ARRIVAL AT 



jMission among the Gallas is, because we do not know 

what may be the result of om- INIission in Shoa. There 

is a village, called Tsherkos, on the Tshatsha, where, 

four years ago, the Christians were killed by a Gover- 

nor, who hav-ing fallen out with the King of Shoa, 

raised the Gallas against him. At fii'st, he attempted 

to assassinate the King ; but his son detected the pro- 

fligate design of his father before it was executed. 



July 13, 1839— To-day is the feast of the Abyssinians, 

called Selassie, at which time the King retm-ns to Anko- 

bar. We were therefore ordered to set out from An- 

gollala. We left this place with mixed feelings. On 

the one hand, we praised God that He had inclined the 

heart of the King of this country toward us ; and, on 

the other hand, we were dissatisfied mth the little work 

which we had been able to perform in om- holy object. 

But we walk hy faith, not by sight. We hope that oxu- 

means of usefulness will increase at Ankobar, and pray 

the Lord to open us a door to preach His Word. 



AVe set out from AngoUala about ten o'clock ; but 

being unable to reach Ankobar, we passed the night 

in a village called Metatit, on the Chacka mountain, 

about five miles from Ankobar. An old man received 

us into his house, in which men and animals were living 

together, and in a smoke which nearly suffocated us. 



July 14 — Tliis morning we arrived in safety at An- 

kobar. As we were about to enter the town, we were 

stopped by the people of the Governor, who told us 

that we must wait till the Governor had been informed 







ANKOBAR. 81 



of our arrival, and had given orders for us to enter. 

A foreigner cannot enter Ankobar without having 

received orders from the Governor. A messenger after- 

ward came from the Governor, and conducted us to 

our dwelling. 







E 5 







PART II. 



RESIDENCE AT ANKOBAR. 



CHAPTER I. 



ARRIVAL OF THE KING AT ANKOBAR — INTERVIEAV WITH HIM— PARTI- 

CULARS OF THE GALLA TRIBES TO THE NORTH OF SHOA — GUEBRA 

GEORGIS EXPRESSES A WISH FOR INSTRUCTION — VISIT TO THE CHURCH 

OF ST. GEORGE— PARTICULARS 0F THE KING OF SHOA AND HIS FAMILY 

— ABYSSINIAN FASTS — ACCOUNT OF THE SECT OF THE TABIBAN — 

MR. KRAPF COMMENCES A VOCABULARY OF THE GALLA LANGUAGE- 

ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF ANKOBAR — OPINIONS RESPECTING THE WOR- 

SHIP OF THE VIRGIN MARY — CONVERSATION WITH PRIESTS OF DEBRA 

LIBANOS RESPECTING THE THREE BIRTHS OF CHRIST — SHOAN MEA- 

SURES AND RATES OF BARTER — LEAP-YEAR OF THE ABYSSINIANS— 

— PARTICULARS RESPECTING THE GURAGUE COUNTRY — LIST OF -ETHI- 

OPIC BOOKS — FEAST OF TECLA HAIMANOT — VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF 

ST. MICHAEL — ABVSSINIANS' NEW YEAR — GALLA TRIBES IN THE SOUTH 

OF GURAGUE— CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST ON CHRONOLOGY — 

STRANGE STORY — VISIT TO DEBRA BERHAN — INTERVIEW WITH THE 

KING VISIT TO TEGULET, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF SHOA. 



July 15, 1839 — This morning the King arrived at 

Ankobar : we paid our respects to him on his way to 

his house. 



July 16 — To-day the King sent his boy, requesting 

to know whether we understood how to stamp dollars. 

In reply, we begged to be introduced to the King. On 







GALLA TRIBES NORTH OF SIIOA. 83 



appearing before hinij we said, as on a former occasion, 

that we were messengers of the Gospel interfering with 

no other business, and consequently were not qualified 

for coining money; but that if he gave orders, we should 

be glad to serve him, by TTiting to om* friends in 

Eui'ope, who would render him every assistance they 

could, if he did not prevent us from teaching in his 

country. At the same time, Mr. Isenberg acquainted 

him of his resolution of leaving Shoa in the month of 

October, to go to Em'ope, where he would communicate 

to our fi'iends the wish of the King. He approved of 

all that we said. Having retired to our house, the 

King's boy came and conducted us to another house, 

in which the father of the King had formerly dwelt. 

We were very glad of this change, having been much 

molested by the people at our first house. On entering 

oui' new house, a ]Iahomedan, whose name is Nasir, 

from a Galla tribe, called Daue, called upon us. He is 

the son of the Governor of his tribe, whose name is 

Abbe. He said, that Beroo, the ruler of Argobba, 

having taken from his father all his land, had fled for 

refuge to the King of Shoa, who restored him to his 

former power ; but that his country was tributary t(j 

Shoa. This man gave me the following information 

respecting the Gallas dwelling in the north of Shoa. 

The capital city of Beroo, the ruler of Argobba, who is 

dependant on Gondar, is Aineh, on the TshafFa river, 

which is called Bcrkona by the people of Shoa. The 

Tshaffa comes from the west, and sends its water to the 







84 GUEBRA GEORGIS. 



Hawash, in the country of Adel. The Tshaffa river — 

so called by the Gallas — separates the northern Gallas 

from Shoa. There are the following Tribes : 1. Dane; 

2. WoUo; 3. Wara; 4. GafFra; 5. Wotshale; 6. Sako; 

7. Bottolloj 8. Tehuladere; 9. Gille ; 10. Assallo ; 

11. Assubo; 12. Lagagora ; 13. Gama ; 14. Sagambo; 

15. Kallola; 16. Fctshoo; 17. Ittoo ; 18. Karaiu ; 

] 9. Arrusi ; 20. Tcherker. The last four Tribes are 

in the cast of Shoa. 



Nasir had a Christian boy with him, who wished to 

be instructed by us. The name of this boy is Guebra 

Georgis, about fourteen years of age. His father is a 

Debtera — a learned Abyssinian — whose father, Tecla 

Haimanot, was Alaca of the Church of St. George. I 

received a good impression of this boy on my first con- 

versation with him. He is the only boy who has a real 

desire for instruction. He has a good understanding. 

His father intends to make him a priest, and to send 

him to Gondar to be ordained when the Abuna comes. 

If his heart should be changed by the Holy Spirit, he 

would become very useful to our Mission. From other 

information, I learned that the Tshalfa and Berkona are 

different rivers, which having joined, flow to the Hawash. 



July 18, 1839 — To-day I commenced instructing 

Guebra Georgis : I began reading the Gospel of St. 

Matthew with him. 



Jidy 22 — In reading with Guebra Georgis, I have 

got as far as the middle of St. Matthew's Gospel. I 

have also commenced instructing him in Geography. 







VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE. 85 



To-day is tlie feast of Mariam. Tliis evening a bov, 

about nine years old, came to our house, saying tliat his 

father and mother were dead ; that his father had left 

him only two pieces of salt, which the people of 

his house had stolen from him ; and that the people, 

instead of returning his property, had driven him out 

of the house. Being disappointed of getting boys from 

the King, we were resolved to receive all who had a real 

desire for instruction. 



July 28 .- Lord's day — I went to the Chiu'ch of St. 

George, and gave a copy of the New Testament to 

Alaca Wolda Hanna, who thankfully accepted it. 



July 29 — To-day was a great Tescar in honour of 

the father of the present King, who died twenty-eight 

years ago. On this occasion the priests pray in the 

Church ; and having finished their ceremonies, eat and 

drink as much as they like. We saw the tomb of the 

late King. There are a great many images, representing 

the achievements of the King, and the Gallas whom he 

himself had killed in war. Buffalos, lions, and leopards, 

which the King had shot are also seen. The present 

King had a painter from Gondar to execute these 

paintings in the Abyssinian style. 



July SO — This morning the Tabot- Altar — was 

brought with shouting into the Church of Tecla Hai- 

manot, built by the present King. This is the 

second chm'ch which the King has built at Ankobar. 

Having yesterday taken another boy into our house, a 

little disturbance arose to-day. Serta Wolda, to whose 







86 INSTRUCTION IN SLNGING. 



care the King commits strangers, having been informed 

that we had received a second boy, repeatedly charged 

our servant to prevent persons coming to us. We im- 

mediately informed the King of these proceedings, and 

we had the pleasm'e to receive his orders, that nobody 

who Abashed to be instructed should be hindered coming 

to our house. Since that time the number of our 

scholars has increased. 



I finished to-day the physical part of Geography with 

Guebra Georgis. He is much pleased with Geography. 



August , 1839 — Since I was in the Church of St. 

George several priests have visited us to talk about re- 

ligious subjects. Indeed most of the persons who have 

come to us for that j^urpose are of that church, the reason 

of which may be, that half a year ago, Alaca Melat 

was dismissed by the King in consequence of the dis- 

putes about the second and third births of Christ. The 

people of St. George believe in two births. 



August 4 — This afternoon I made the acquaintance 

of a man whose name is Ai'kadis. His business is to 

instruct a number of boys — about 100 — in singing. 

Desiring to get access to his scholars I endeavoured to 

gain over this man to me. He promised to send his 

son, about seventeen years of age, to be instructed. 

The instruction in singing is given in conformity with 

the book of Fared. If a boy does not like instruction, 

he is punished by his parents — a custom in Abys- 

sinia. Miat a great blessing these boys would become 

to their country, if they were instructed in the pure 

knowledge of Christ ! 







KING OF SHOA's FAMILY. 87 



August 5 — A man of our house gave us this morn- 

ing the following information about the King and his 

family. Sahela Selassieh became King of Shoa when 

twelve years of age, and has now reigned twenty-seven 

years. He is the seventh king of Shoa. The follow- 

ing is the line of the kings of Shoa: 1. Nagathj 2. 

Sebashi ; 3. Abie, who took Ankobar in war from 

the Gallas; -i. Amaha Fesus; 5. Asfa Wassen ; 6. 

Wussen Segged; 7. Sahela Selassieh, the jjresent king. 

The King has ten daughters by several \dves. By his 

tu-st and favourite vn£e, who is called Besabesh, he has 

a daughter and two sons. The eldest son is twelve 

years of age. The male childi*en of the King are kept 

in prison at Quatsho, on the eastern fi'ontiers of Shoa, 

in the neighbourhood of Adel. On the death of the 

King, his eldest son is taken out of prison and in- 

troduced as king by the ]Ialatia Agafari — thefii'st door- 

keeper — whose duty is to crown the King. The new 

King then puts his brethren in prison, being afraid of 

distm-bances which they might create against him. 



This afternoon the King went to Machala Wans, a 

village about five miles distant from Ankobar, in order 

to keep the sixteen days^ fasting of the Abyssinians in 

memory of the Felsat (ascension) of Mary. This fast 

is called the Felsata fast. 



August 6 — The above mentioned fast commences to- 

day. Since the King has withdi-aAvn the prohibition of 

Serta Wolda, respecting persons coming to us, we have 

had more people to instruct in the Word of God. I 







88 ABYSSINIAN FASTS. 



called in the afternoon upon Alaca Wolda Serat, 

and spoke with him about the difference between the 

Word of God and that of men. I afterward asked 

him about their yEthiopic books : he gave me a number 

•of titles. He also said, that the Christians flying from 

Gragne — a bigoted Mahomedan king of Adel — went 

beyond the country of Gurague, taking with them books 

and 600 Tabots (communion tables.) 



August 7, 1839 — This morning I asked Akaloo, whom 

I have mentioned before, what the Abyssinians eat when 

they fast. He answered, that they were only allowed to 

eat goman, stinging nettles, and dry bread. The present 

fast is called the fast of Nahasie. Nahasie is 

our August. Then follows the Hodad fast, in the 

months of February and March, which lasts 40 days ; 

after which, in June, the fast of the Apostles, which lasts 

twenty-five or thirty days; and then the fast of Nineveh, 

M'hich lasts three days. In the month of December is 

Tsoma ledat. Otherwise they fast every Wednesday and 

Friday. Tlie fasts of Felsata, Hodadie, Apostles, as 

well as those of every week, ai'e imposed on them as 

a work of necessity. As to keeping of the other fasts 

it is voluntarily. Thus they pass a great part of the 

year in fasting, seeking thereby their own righteous- 

ness. If a person does not fast, he is sepai^ated from 

the Church ; and if he does not repent, he is not in- 

terred in the common burial ground. 



August 8 — This afternoon a man, whose name is 

Habtu, came to us. As he was reported to bean adherent 







SECT OF THE TABIBAN. 89 



to the sect of the Tabiban, I asked him about them. 

His relations are followers of that sect. He approved 

of all that Akaloo had formerly told me about them. 

Their forefathers, he said, about a thousand years ago, 

came from Amhara to Shoa, and lived in caves, in the 

neighbom-hood of Ankobar. They have still three 

monasteries in Shoa, at Felema, Thalassa, and Deifii. 

He said that the people of Shoa insult them with 

nick-names, but that they love God ; that they have the 

Bible in another language ; and are in possession of 

other books. I shall go one day to see this strange 

people. I suppose that they are of the party of the 

Falashas. 



To-day was the fast of the childi-en. Childi-en 

are exempted from fasting till they are twelve 

years of age, except when they go to the Lord's supper, 

when they are compelled to fast. Once in the year, 

that is to-day, they are obliged to take the blessed 

sacrament. Any one who spits, or plucks off a leaf from 

a tree, is not admitted to the communion table. They 

receive a w hite cloth from the church, in which they are 

enveloped up to the mouth, and stand from morning till 

the evening, observing the greatest silence; but they do 

not understand any thing about the ceremony. I asked 

a boy whether he knew why he took the blessed sacra- 

ment ; when he replied, because it made him grow. 

What darkness is spread over this people, both young and 

old ! As we have many persons coming to us, I much 

wish that we had a quantity of copies of the Holy Scrip- 







90 OPINIONS RESPECTING THE 



tures in Amliaric. The people seem to understand who 

we are, and why we have come to their country. 



August 9, 1839 — I began to collect a Vocabulary of 

theGaUa Language. The son of Ay to Bekoo called upon 

us. He said, that there was a queen of a Galla tribe, 

called Mulofalada, which is in some measure dependant 

on Shoa. The King is said to have invited her to come 

to Shoa ; when she replied, that if he wished her to 

come, he must cover the whole way with silk. She 

is very rich and strong in war : her name is Tshamieh. 

At the time of King Abie, a wife being the ruler of a 

Galla tribe, v/as in possession of this town. Her name 

was Anko. Hence the name of this tovAoi — Ankobar, 

that is, the door of the Anko. "Bar" means door. In 

Shoa, there are fifty-one Abagas, or watchmen of the 

frontiers. Their duty is to inform the King of the 

arrival of strangers. They are obliged in general, to 

secure the boundaries against inroads or other casualties. 

Herein we may see the margraves of old in Germany. 

The Abaga of the Mahomedans is called Walasma. 

Thus, for instance, Walasma Mahomed, Walasma Musa, 

on the frontiers of Adel. 



August 10 — A priest from Bulga called upon us this 

afternoon, saying, that there are two opinions in Shoa 

respecting the imploring and venerating of Mary. There 

is a party at Bulga and Manshar, in the province of 

Fatigar, who say, that Maiy is to be venerated and 

implored as Christ himself. This party is called 

"Mesle Wold;'^ that is, (in the iEthiopic) like the Son. 







WORSHIP OF THE VIRGIN MARY. 91 



Another party, which prevails at Ankobar and Debra 

Libanos, is of opinion that the Son only ought to be 

implored and venerated. This party is called "Wa 

lawold magsat/' (only to the Son belongs veneration.) 

The late Abuna Cj^illus, being asked about this doc- 

trine, forbid them to dispute about it. He also forbid 

them to eat tish at the time of fasting. 



Arkadis, who instructs boys in singing, called upon 

us again. "N^Tien he left, we gave him a copy of the 

New Testament. His son comes every day. I am 

reading with him the Gospel of St. John. With Guebra 

Georgis I have read the Gospels of St. Matthew, St. 

Mark, and St. Luke. 



August 11 — Our coppst, Wolda Zadek, told me, 

that Efat is divided into Upper and Lower Efat. Mach- 

food — on our maps falsely called Marfood — belongs to 

Upper Efat. Alioamba is in Lower Efat. The district 

of jNIachfood, it is true, has a gi'eat elevation compared 

with the situation of Ankobar, Alioamba, and its 

neighbom-hood ; and that may be the real cause of this 

division. Our Workie told us this evening, that the 

people of the Habab, in the neighbourhood of Mas- 

sowah, professed the Christian faith a short time 

ago ; but that they turned Mahomedans on account of 

a monk, who forbid them to di'ink the milk of camels, 

and not being inclined to comply with this, they changed 

their religion. Most of them have still Christian 

names. When I was at Massowab, I did not know 

this, else I should have made inquiries. Perhaps they 







93 CONVERSATIONS 



could be brought back to the Christian faith in its 

better and pvu-er form. Their language is that of 

Massowah, which is the iEthiopic in a corrupted state. 

With Guebra Gcorgis I have finished the Geography 

of Europe. 



August 12, 1839— To-day is the feast of the Annun- 

ciation of Mary. Three priests were here from Debra 

Libanos, asking about the second and third births of 

Christ. I read John iii.,and spoke about the regeneration 

of the sinner. 



August 13 — The priests of Debra Libanos came 

again to-day, with several others, asking about the 

births of Christ. Afterward, a man from Gondar called 

upon us : his name is Guebra Selassie. I asked him 

about CafFa and Enarea. He said, that it is ten days' 

journey from Gondar to Basso on the Nile ; and from 

Basso to Enarea fifteen days; that cofi"ee is brought from 

Cafi"a, and civets from Enarea ; and that shells, corals, 

and pieces of salt are the current money there. 



This afternoon I called upon Alaca Wolda Selas- 

sie, of the Chm-ch of Tecla Haimanot in Afcrbeini. 

His Church was built by the present King. When 

I returned, I found several people, with whom I 

read Matt. iii. On reading the passage. And his meat 

was locusts and wild honey, they said, that John did 

not eat locusts (anbata), but another meat. They are 

afraid lest they should make John a Mahomedan, be- 

cause the Mahomedans eat locusts. Thus they read the 

Bible in the false light of human traditions. 







MITII PRIESTS. 93 



August 14 — Very early this morning a priest came, 

wishing to see us, having learn,ed that we had been 

at Jerusalem. At first we spoke about the corrupt 

state of the Christians at Jerusalem, and their cpiarrel- 

ling about trifling things ; afterward about the Jeru- 

salem above, to which we go by a living faith in Christ, 

and by worshipping the Father in spirit and in truth ; 

and, finally, we spoke about the great pride ^dth which 

pilgrims come back from Jerusalem, thinking them- 

selves to be saints. A priest then came, reproving 

lamentations for the dead. He said, that Afawork 

(Chrysostomus) had also reproved that custom. 



August 15 — To-day many scholars were here. Three 

boys from the Church of Medhanalim, several persons 

from St. Mary, several priests from St. Michael, and 

the priests of Debi-a Libanos. I read John i. with 

them. A blind man, who seems to be anxious for 

insti"uction, was with them. 



August 16 — I called upon Alaca Wolda Scrat, and 

asked him why he did not continue to study Geogra- 

phy. Since he has been at Ankobar he has given up 

this study. 



August 18: Lord's Day — This day the Abyssinians 

celebrate the memory of Christ^s transfiguration on 

Mount Tabor. I went to the Church of Medhanalim. 

They call this feast Baala Tabor, or, as the people who 

have no knowledge call it, " Behu." At night the 

boys go out taking fiambcaus with them. 



August 19, 1839 — Our former guide, Mahomed Ali, 







9-i SIIOAN MEASURES 



from the Adail tribe Wema, arrived this afternoon from 

Tadjurra^ mthout having anything for us. We longed 

very much to receive money, as all ovu* money was 

spent ; but we were disappointed. Mahomed Ali in- 

formed us of the arrival of two Franks at Tadjurra. A 

priest from Debra Libanos informed iis, that Tecla 

Haimanot, who is considered as the Reformer of the 

Abyssinian Church, was born at Bulga, and died at 

Debra Libanos. 



The King sent this afternoon an Abyssinian cloth to 

each of us, saying that it was cold. As we were 

about to send our servant to the market-place, wc 

asked him about the measm-es of Shoa. He said, that 

twenty kuna of grain make a daule ; that one daule 

of barley is got for two pieces of salt ; and that one 

daule of wheat is bought for five pieces of salt. In 

Tigre, sixteen measures make a madega; besides, one 

measm'e is smaller than a kuna in Shoa. For one 

piece of salt, three loads of wood are obtained at An- 

kobar. A Maria Theresa dollar is at present changed 

for seventeen or twenty pieces of salt. Sometimes a 

dollar is changed only for eight, ten, twelve, or fifteen 

pieces of salt. The place where salt-pieces are changed, 

is Aliaomba, a large village about six miles distant 

from the east of Ankobar, the inhabitants of whom 

are nearly all Mahomedans. The place where mules, 

horses, &c. are bought, is Debra Berhan, about twenty 

miles to the west of Ankobar. These places are the 

greatest market-places. At Ankobar, there is a market 







AND RATES OF BARTER. 95 



e'ery Satiu"day, where you can buy sheep, corn, and 

sometimes grease and other things. The market- 

place is without the town, about a mile distant, on 

the river Aii-ara and the Chacka mountain. About 

weights I have got no information ; for instance, how 

many dollars are paid for an ounce of gold. At 

Gondar, the ounce (wokich) of gold is valued at nine 

dollars. 



With regard to establishing a commerce between 

Shoa and a foreign country, the present cii'cum- 

stances perhaps appear suitable for it. The way 

between Shoa and the coast does not occasion great 

hindi'ances, if the matter could be settled with the 

people of Adel and the King of Shoa. The trade 

with mules and horses would be the most promising, 

as a good mule is here worth about ten or twelve dol- 

lars, and a good horse eight or nine dollars : on the 

coast, a mule is worth about twenty-four or twenty-six 

dollars. Therefore, if merchants would buy them in 

Shoa, they would derive a good profit. 



August 20 — The King sent us to-day fifty pieces of 

salt. We are very thankful for all that the King has 

given us, as our money is spent. Our clothes, paper, 

ink, money, and every thing is gone ; and our luggage, 

which we left at Tadjurra, is not expected to an'ive for 

three or four months ; and when it does, we have no 

means to pay for the carriage of it. 



The Tigi-eans are of opinion that Christ anointed 

himself. In saying so, they cut off the Holy 







96 ABYSSINIAN LEAP-YEAR. 



Ghost from Christ, by whom He was anointed. They 

who believe in the three births of Christ say, that 

Christ, in the womb of Mary, was anointed by the 

Holy Ghost ; and this they call a third birth. We 

reply, with reference to Luke i. 35, that the Holy 

Ghost did not come at that time upon Christ, but upon 

Mary, whom the power of the Highest over-shadowed ; 

and consequently, that Mary received the Holy Ghost 

at that time, and not Christ, upon whom the Spirit of 

God descended, when He was baptized on the Jordan. 

Matt. iii. It does not appear that they consider the 

baptism of Christ as a third birth, as I was of opinion 

that they did. A priest, called Biesana, is said to have 

brought from Gondar to Shoa the dispute about the 

three births of Christ. Respecting the death of Mary, 

it is said by one party, that she died as an offering for 

the sins of the world, or at least that she has redeemed 

150,000 souls ; others say, that she died to go to rest till 

she should rise from the dead. We always tell them, 

that their errors and confusion of opinions arises from 

neglecting the study of the Bible. 



August 21, 1839 — A priest, whose name is Guebra 

Selassie, turned the conversation to the subject of leap- 

year. He said, that the Abyssinians call the names of 

their years after the four Evangelists; that in the year of 

Matthew, of Mark, and of Luke, they add five days to 

the year ; but in the year of John, they add six days. 

This addition is called pagmie. The present is the 

year of John. The Evangelists are the Alacas or 







GURAGUE. 97 



rulers of their years; therefore, if you ask Avheti a 

mail was born, or when any event happened, they 

say, in the year of ^Matthew, or Mark, or Luke, or 

John. 



This afternoon, a priest of Gui'ague, whose name is 

Laaka ]Iariam, eame to us. "VVe asked him about his 

countiy, when he gave us the f ollowang information . From 

Ankobar to Bulga it is one or two days' journey; from 

Bulga to Garague, five or eight days. That in going 

to Gurague you pass through the country of ten 

tribes of Gallas : 1. Ferrer; 2. Roggi ; 3. Endote; 

4, Adai ; 5. Abboo ; 6. Woretshersa; 7. Tshidda ; 

8. Abado. ; 9. Soddo ; 10. Liban and Gumbushoo. 

You pass the river Hawash in the tribe of Abboo. 

"When you have passed the Hawash, you come, after 

several days, to a large lake, called Suai, in which is an 

island inhabited by monks : there is another lake, in 

the countiy of the Abboo-Gallas, called Killole; and 

one called Arsud. The chief Governors of Gurague, 

are Keroo and Aminoo. Keroo resides at Watsho. 

Both are tributary to the King of Shoa. Gm*ague is 

so called on account of its situation. It is on the left, 

if you look to the west from Gondar. " Gera'' means 

the left, and " gie '' signifies side : hence on the left 

side. The greater part of the inhabitants of Gui-ague 

are Christians ; yet there are many Mahomedans and 

heathens. The places where there arc Christians, are 

the following : — 1. Aimellelle ; 2. Nurreno; 3. Besant- 

shooboo; 4. Manes; 5. Malakdaino; G. Wogoraui ; 



F 







98 PRODUCE OF GURAGUE. 



7. Buijana; 8. Foudamo; 9. Datslii; 10. Jettaue; 



11. Aretshat; 12. Hebcrrer; 13. Arogomane; 14. Dobi; 



15. Fawitui j 16. Jatabona j 17. Sera Sangania; 

18. Mohor. The places where Armeni or heathens 

reside, are: — 1. Mascan; 2. Aborrat ; 3. Fakedar ; 

4. Warub; 5. Mans; 6. Sabolas; 7. Faderek; 8. Wum- 

nan; 9. Allakiro ; 10. Duhaber ; 11. Endagach ; 



12. Masmas; 13. Magar; 14. Ener; 15. Asha ; 



16. Tshaha; 17. Wollane. The most distinguished 

mountains of Gurague are : Karra, Kotaltiti, Gafersa, 

Uttukuf, Make, Teru, Engedokotto, Bodegabab, Dino- 

koti, Enokaler, and Sert. The principal rivers are : 

Wiser, in the district of Danu, where the Priest himself 

was born; Dersaf; Asas ; Sherbanes; Meke, and Jama- 

rakoadio. Most of these rivers run into the lake of 

Suai. On the way from Ankobar to the Hawash 

you pass three rivers ; namely, Akaki, Guratsha, and 

Furri. The current money in Gurague is salt : 

dollars do not pass. Knives, scissors, needles, &c., 

are well received. There is much coffee in Gm-ague; 

and wine is also produced. Tasma honey, of the 

most precious kind, is found in the province of 

Abamada. Their houses are better than those in 

Shoa. The women of Gurague make carpets from 

the Ensiete plant, of which I made mention above. 

There are about thirty-nine monasteries in Gurague. 

The Galla Tribes beyond Gurague, are the following : — 

Maroko, Laki, Lani, Damo, and Endegan. In the 

neighbourhood of Gurague is the country of Senshero, 







^THIOPIC BOOKS. 99 



where are many Christians and IMahomedans ; eight 

days joiu-uey beyond is that of Mager, the King of 

which is called Degoie. He is very strong. There is 

another country, in the same neighbourhood, called 

Kortshassi : it is surrounded by Gallas on every side ; 

and all the inhabitants are Christians. 



I read with the priest several chapters in the Gospel 

of St. IMatthew, and afterward gave him a copy of the 

New Testament, wi'iting in it — " The messengers of the 

Gospel give this book to the Christian Churches of 

Gm'ague, in token of love." 



August 22, 1839 — As yesterday closed the fast of 

Maiy, this day was one of great joy, and the people 

ate and drank to the delight of their hearts : it is 

therefore called a great Fasika. This feast is called 

Tescar. The King sent a cow, with some hens and 

eggs to our house. This Tescar had a bad influence 

upon our instruction, as nobody came to-day. Our 

Guebra left us to eat and drink in the house of his 

father. 



August 23— Our copyist, Habta Selassie, who is a 

learned Abyssinian, gave me the following list of iEthi- 

opic books: 1. Aragawi manfasawi ; 2. Tilikisus; 3. 

Marishak ; (these are called the books of the Monks,) 

4. Taamrat ; 5. Gadela Samatal ; 6. Tamera Mariam; 

7. Dilsana Mariam; 8. Argano; 9. Senkesar ; 10. 

Gadela Gcorgis ; 1 1 . Tamera Georgis ; 12. Gadela Tccla 

Haimanot ; 13. Gadala Guebra Manfa Kedus; 14. Ga- 

dela Guebra Christos; 15. Abu Shaker; 16. Sena 

F 2 







100 ^THIOPIC BOOKS. 



Markos ; 17. Hezana Moia; 18. Etshi Johauos ; 19. 

Sena Ailiud ; 20. Genset ; 21. Georgis WoldaAmed; 

22. Mazhafa Mistir; 23. Erotaa Haimanot; 24. 

Wudattie Amlak ; 25. Guebra Hemamal; 26. Tamera 

Jesus ; 27. Kalamentos ; 28. Seifa Selassie ; 29. Der- 

sana Michael j 30. Dersana Medhanalim ; 31. Kufalie; 

32. Sefafa Zedek ; 33. Egsiabher Negs; 34. Amada 

Mistir; 35. Zoma Degua; 36. Sena Fetrat. Amada 

Mistir and Sena Fetrat are written in Amharic. In 

the Church of St. George there arc seventy books 

belonging to it. It is very difficult to get a book by 

purchase ; if you wish to possess one, you must get it 

copied. 



I spoke to our copyist about the conversion of the 

Gallas. He said that the Gallas do not like the Chris- 

tian Religion, and say that the people of Shoa are not 

better than themselves; that they will not bear the 

heavy yoke which is imposed on them by fasting ; and 

that they are offended at the iEthiopic language — to 

them an unknown language — in which they are taught 

by the Abyssinians. I said, " ^^ ty do you impose 

on them such a heavy load ? Do you not know what 

Christ says, (^latt. xi. 30.) My yoke is easy, and my 

hiirden is light ? Why do you imitate the example 

of the Pharisees who transgressed the commandment 

of God by their traditions ? " 



August 24, 1839 — Several persons called upon us, 

asking for the Kalem abenat. The Abyssinians are of 

opinion that there is a medicine, which, put into bread. 







MOUNTAINS OF BULGA. 101 



is taken by cliildi-en or persons who wish to under- 

stand reading and wi'iting quickly. They beheve that 

eveiT man who comes from Egjqit — which they call 

Gipz, and an Egyptian, Gipzi — is in possession of this 

medicine. We replied, that we did not know such a 

medicine; and said, "Why are all men of Shoa so 

ignorant, if there is such a good medicine against igno- 

rance ? God from the beginning imposed on man to 

labour. All knowledge and skiKulness must be got by 

exerting our powers of body and mind." As there 

were about twelve persons with us^ I read with them the 

Heidelberg Catechism, which JNIr. Isenberg had trans- 

lated into Amharic. 



August 26 — I called uponAlaca Wolda Hanna, who 

was reading with Alaca Metat St. Chrysostom, (called 

by the Abyssiuians Afawork, meaning " gold mouth") 

He asked me about the leviathan and behemoth, men- 

tioned in the Book of Job ; about our bishops ; the 

journey to Cairo ; and the children of Ham, &c. 



I then called upon Alaca Wolda Serat, Ayto Wolda 

Georgis, and Arkadis. Before leaving the latter, I 

asked about the mountains of Bulga, which are seen 

from that place. One high mountain is called !Magus- 

as; another is called Fantalh; and the name of an 

other AVosile. In the evening I sent a copy of the Psalms 

to the Alaca of Tecla Haimanot. The Lord be praised 

for giving me daily an opportunity of spreading the 

good seed of His AA'ord ! 



August 27 — Johanes, who was formerly a Mahom- 







102 THE FESTIVAL 



edan, told us this morning, that the King had 

cut off the nice binding of the books, which we 

gave him at our first meeting with him, to use 

for another pm-pose. We do not think, however, that 

it is true. The people of Shoa, like those of Tigre, 

do not like the Amharic very much, but prefer the 

iEthiopic. We endeavour to prove, that as the Amharic 

is the language of the country, and as the ^thiopic re- 

quires a long study, the Amharic is much more prefer- 

able to an unknown language. We refer them to 

1 Cor. xiv., where St. Paul is speaking about the use- 

lessness of speaking in an unknown tongue. Finally, 

we say, that the iEthiopic is a translation like the 

Amharic, which has its preference in so far as it is 

corrected in conformity with the Hebrew; while the 

iEthiopic translation is made according to the Septua- 

gint. Perhaps it would be expedient, if the Bible 

Society would print the ^thiopic and Amharic in one 

volume, in the same way as they have printed the 

Ancient and Modern Greek New Testament, in one 

volume, in two opposite columns. I wish that we were 

in possession of a quantity of ^thiopic New Testa- 

ments. This morning Alaca Wolda Serat proposed 

to me to change the works of St. Chrysostom for a 

copy of the New Testament in iEthiopic. At Angol- 

lala, I offered to him a copy of the Amharic New 

Testament ; but he refused to accept it, asking for the 

^thiopic. It always makes a painful impression on 

our mind if the people, and particularly the fii'st digni- 







OF TECLA HAIMANOT. 103 



taries of cliui'ches, refuse to accept the Holy Scrip- 

tures. 



August 28, 1839 — To-day a priest ofBulga called on 

us. He said, that there was a large river, called Kassam, 

in the neighbourhood of Bulga ; and that it flows into the 

Hawash. The name of the Governor of Bulga is Berkie, 

who resides at Merfata. As there were about fifteen 

persons with us, I read jIatt. xxiii. with them, and 

afterward the Catechism, with which they were well 

pleased. 



August 29 — To-day is the feast of Tecla Haima- 

not. The memory of this Saint is celebrated three 

times in the year. In the month of December, the 

memory of his birth is celebrated ; in August, his 

death ; and in May, his ascension. The people of Shoa 

say, that there is a well, called Tabal, by drinking the 

water of which sick persons are restored to health. 

Tecla Haimanot, they say, opened this well; the arch- 

angel ^lichael, who was his Mediator with God, having 

she^Ti him where the well was. On this day, the King 

gives money and salt to the poor, and mules to those who 

cannot walk, in memory of Tecla Haimanot, who cured 

cripples and other sick men. AMien they go to Debra 

Libanos, they bring back dust from his grave, making 

on his feast a cross with it on the forehead. They say, 

too, that this dust is good in many cases of sickness. 



August 31 — There being about eight scholars here, 

I read with them in the Gospel of St. John. In the 

afternoon, I went to see Wolda Hanna, who wished to 







104 VISITS TO THE CHURCHES OF 



learn the English Language. AYe had a conversation 

about Geography. When 1 left him, he asked about 

our necessaries, sajang, he would send bread and wine if 

we were in want of them. I should be very glad if I 

had a better knowledge of the Amharic Language ; but I 

hope, with the assistance of God, to improve it every 

day. Mr. Isenberg has finished his Geography, which 

he began to write at Angollala. He intends to write 

a brief Universal History. A Spelling-book was com- 

posed by him at Angollala. We have made copies of 

those works written by Abyssinians. 



Sept. 1, 1839. Lord's Day — I went veiy early this 

morning to the Church of St. Michael. TheAlaca, Wolda 

Mariam, on seeing me, requested me to take a seat by 

his side. I gave him a copy of the New Testament in 

Amharic^ with which he was much pleased, asking at 

the same time, whether I had none in ^Ethiopic. 

Observing him wondering at the nice binding of the 

book, I took the opportunity to speak to him about 

the blessings contained in it ; and then briefly related 

to him the history of the Reformation, showing him 

that our forefathers were in as much darkness as the 

Abyssinians are at present, and how they were 

delivered from it by the light of the AA'ord of God ; and 

finally, I spoke to him about the worldly blessings 

which we have enjoyed since the time of the Reforma- 

tion of our churches. I have much hope that they 

will allow us to preach in their churches : for the pre- 

sent, however, I endeavour to make my acquaintance 







ST. MICHAEL AND ST. GEORGE. 105 



with them. I went afterward to the Church of Tccla 

Haimanot in Aferbeini. As the service was finished, I 

called upon Alaca Guebra Selassie. 



Sept. 4 — Two monks came to-day begging for 

clothes. Mr. Isenberg spoke with them about monkery- 

being inconsistent with the original institution of matri- 

mony, Gen. ii. — of labour. Gen. iii. One of the monks 

has been at Axuca, where he had received a copy of the 

Psalms from our servant Kidan Mariam. We are glad 

to find that our books are spread over a large por- 

tion of Abyssinia. 



Sept. 5 — It rained very much to-day. In the even- 

ing I went to the Church of St. George, to see the 

books belonging to that Church. Afterward, a Debtera 

came asking about the polygamy of the Mahomedans. 

I directed him to the institution of God, Gen. ii. ; and 

the confirmation of that by Christ, Matt. xix. 4, 5., 

asking him, whether we should follow the error of the 

^Mahomedans, or the Word of God ? 



Se2')t. 7 — About eight persons were here this morn- 

ing. An Alaca of Machala Wans begged for medicine. 

I asked him about the names of the parts of the 

Abyssinian churches. The first place, at the entrance, is 

called Kenie Maalti, where the boys in singing and other 

people stand. The second place is called Kediste, the 

place of the priests ; the third is called Keduta 

Kedutan. 



A relation of the King's came begging for medicine. 

The name of the King's mother is Senania Work- rain 



F 5 







106 ABYSSIISIAN NEW-YEAR. 



of gold — She resides at Selat Dingai, iu the neighbour- 

hood of Tegulet. 



Sejyt. 9^ 1839 — I read this morning Acts viii. to a blind 

man, explaining to him the mind of Simon the sor- 

cerer, and the sincere mind of the Eunuch. 



Sept. 10 — This is the last day of the Abyssinian year. 

Our boy, Guebra Georgis, spoke this evening about 

Theodorus, who, in the opinion of the Abyssinians, is 

the Apostle John, who shall come at his time to rule 

all Jerusalem. 



Sept. 11 — To-day the new year of the Abyssinians 

begins. They count now 7332 in their chronology. I 

went to the Church of St. George, ha'ing been in- 

formed that a priest would give a speech in Amharic. 

As I arrived too early, I went away. Mr. Isenberg 

went afterward to hear the speech, and came back 

much distressed about the nonsense he had heard. The 

speech was taken from the books of Sena Fetrat and 

Amada Mistir, being written in Amharic. 



In the afternoon a Debtera, Guebra Mariam, called 

upon us. On asking where he was born, he replied, 

that he was from the isle of Haig, which is in a large 

lake in the country of the Galla tribe, the name of 

which is Tehuladere, in the north of Shoa. On this 

island there are about a hundred houses, and a monas- 

tery, where wives are not admitted : they live at some 

distance from the monastery. The island is eight days 

jpm-ney from Ankobar. Foreigners who wish to enter 

Shoa, are compelled to wait in the neighbourhood of 







GALLA TRIBES. 107 



this late, for orders from the King of Shoa. The name 

of the Governor of Tehviladere is Ali Marie, who is de- 

pendant on Has Ali at Gondar, and who is at present at 

war with Beroo of Argobba. 



The priest of Gurague came this evening, asking for 

a definitive answer, whether I would go with him to 

his country. I answered in the negative, though I 

was much inclined to go mth him, and I intend to do 

so in the month of December. 



The Galla Tribes in the south of Gurague are the 

following: l.Wudass; 2. Mai ; 3. Abboso; 4. Abo- 

sitsho ; 5. Masso ; 6. Lellon ; 7. Imer; 8. Fullo ; 

8. Banoso; 9. Falandoso; 10. Mirrer. The Go- 

vernor of the town sent a sheep to us this evening. 



Sept. 13' — This afternoon the priest Sawold, who 

delivered an Amharic speech on the morning of the 

new year, called upon us. He is one of the most 

learned Abyssinians I have seen ; but he is veiy proud. 

He turned the conversation to Chronology, saying, that 

the Abyssinians had seven chronologies. I afterward 

went to Alaca Wolda Hana, who is sick. 



Sept. 15 — The above mentioned priest, Sawold, 

called upon us again, and turned the conversation to 

Chronology, as he had done on his first visit. When 

we said, that we had a firm basis for our Chronology in 

the 5th chapter of Genesis and other parts of the Old 

Testament, he said that the Jews had altered the 

Scriptures — an opinion which I had never heard from 

an Abyssinian — and therefore we could not rely upon 







108 CONVERSATION AVITII 



the Hebrew. We said that we did not expect that he 

would speak in favour of the JMahomedans, who also 

say that the Jews and Christians had altered the Scrip- 

tures. We then endeavoured to prove that the Jews 

did not alter the Old Testament^ else they would have 

first altered the prophecies referring to Christ ; and 

further^ that the Jews had numbered the letters^ and 

were very anxious to keep the genuine text of Scrip- 

ture. The conversation then turned to Cyi'illus, Leon, 

Diosceurus, and other distinguished men in the Church 

at their times. Finally, the priest spoke of the births 

of Christ, and the late Abuna, Cyi'illus, whom they con- 

sider like an angel in heaven. 



Sept. 16, 1839 — The priest of Gurague came again. I 

read with him Matt. v. He afterward spoke of a kind 

of lion in his country, which is called Dib Anbasa. 

He added, that nobody had seen him ; but that when 

speaking of a strong man, they compare him with the 

Dib Anbasa. Another priest, born at Fintsha, the 

capital city of the province of Kuara, in the west "of 

Dembea, called on us. I asked him about the people 

dwelling on the sources of the Nile — which the Abys- 

sinians call Abai — whether they were Christians or hea- 

thens. He said that they were Christians. I asked 

him why they sacrificed to the Nile ; to which he replied, 

that it was a custom in Abyssinia to sacrifice cows, 

sheep, &c., in cases of sickness and or bad times. It 

is a fact, that the Abyssinians have this custom ; and 

therefore we may doubt the statement of Mr. Bruce that 







A PRIEST OF GURAGUE. 109 



they are heathens. However, I suspend my judgment for 

the present. This priest also spoke in high terms of 

Gutho, the Governor of Damot, who is in friendship 

with the King of Shoa. Mr. D'Abadie is with him at 

present. By his means a traveller could get great as- 

sistance in going to Caffa and Enarea. When the 

priest left Gondar, Ras Ali had turned Mahomedan ; but 

as his governors, priests, and monks, protested against 

this step, he was obliged to return to the Christian 

faith. 



In the afternoon a man came begging for medicine. 

I was just reading Rev. i. with another man. When 

I had read some verses and spoke a little about it, he 

said, " It is enough : I have not come to you to learn, 

but to ask for medicine." Afterward an Alaca came, 

whose name is AVolda Tesfa. He was formerly the 

Alaca of St. Gabriel, at Adowah ; but being an adherent 

to the party of the three births of Christ, he was 

expelled from Adowah. He begged us to give him 

medicine. It is grievous to say, that the greater part 

of the people who come to us, seek only help for the 

body. When they come, they say that they long for 

instruction ; but having got medicine, they do not con- 

cern themselves for instruction. When I think on their 

disingenuousness, I have little hope of a good success 

of our work among this people, and my mind turns to 

the heathen Gallas. Enarea is said to be beyond the 

countiy of Sidama. Sidama means, in the Galla Ian- 







110 THE ABUNA OF TIGRE. 



guage, " a Christian." That country is said to be on 

the way to Enarea. 



Sept. 17, 1839 — Several priests asked us whether the 

Abuna had yet arrived from Cairo. We answered in 

the negative. There are several causes which prevent the 

Abyssinians from getting an Abuna. The Governors 

of Tigre and Amhara are at present in the possession 

of the lands belonging to the Abuna, which, should he 

come, they would be obliged to deliver to him. Another 

cause is, that the Abyssinians are at variance with 

each other. The people of Gondar defend the opinion of 

the three births of Christ, which opinion the people of 

Tigre oppose. The Abuna of Tigre is therefore not 

acknowledged at Gondar, and vice versa. The Abuna 

Cyi-illus, who defended two births, was expelled from 

Gondar. 



In the afternoon, several persons came to see my 

watch, of which they had heard from others, consider- 

ing it as a wonder. I said, that it was their time to con- 

vert their minds to Christ. Heb. iv. A priest spoke 

about a book, the title of which is " Iscander." We sup- 

pose it is a translation from the Arabic. Then he spoke 

about the books of Dionysius Areopagita. Mr. Isen- 

berg proved to him, that it was an error to ascribe those 

books to Dionysius, mentioned Acts xvii. Our Workie 

told us this evening of a large city on the side of the 

river Mareb, in the country of the Shangallas, the 

name of which is Maidaro. 



Sept. 19 — Alaca Wolda Tesfa called upon us this 







VISIT TO DEBRA BERHAX. Ill 



afternoon. We asked him about the following strange 

story, which our Workie had related to us the day 

before. The Abuua, Christodoulusj at the time of 

King Nabla Denghel, had reprimanded the people 

of the Fetshoos on account of their dciousness. Ex- 

asperated at this, they thought in revenge to defame 

him. At fii'st they brought the servants of the Abuna 

over to their side. Then they slaughtered a child, 

which they presented at table to the Abuna and the 

King, who were sitting together : one hand of the child 

was still to be seen in its natural state. The Abuna 

was astonished at the sight, and the King asked, whe- 

ther such was the usual meat in that house. He was 

answered in the affirmative. He then said, " From 

henceforth slaughtering and blood-shedding shall have 

no end in yom* country." Therefore, they are called Fet- 

shoo, that is — his hand. The Abuna is said to have 

raised the child from the dead, to bear witness to his 

innocence. 



Sept. 20 — This morning, about seven o'clock, we 

set out from Ankobar, and arrived at Debra Berhan 

about two o'clock in the afternoon. Several days ago we 

had intended to go ; but the people of the King refused 

to give us our mules, till they had received definitive 

orders from the King to deliver them up to us. Hav- 

ing arrived at Debra Berhan, we were conducted to a 

broken tent though much rain was falling. 



Sejit. 21 — This morning Beru, the King's boy, 

came to our tent, saying, that the King had been in- 







112 VISIT TO TEGULET. 



formed of our arrival yesterday evening veiy late. We 

begged the King, through Beru^ to allow us to have 

an interview with him, in order that we might com- 

municate to him our business. At the same time, we 

made him acquainted with Mr. Isenberg's intention of 

returning to Egypt and Europe. Beru immediately 

retm'ned, bringing with him a sheep and some bread 

from the King. The King expressed his regret at Mr. 

Isenberg's going so soon. As it rained much, we asked 

for a house, which was given us by the people of Serta 

Wold, whose duty it is to take care of foreigners. 



Sept. 23, 1839 — This morning we met with the King. 

He was willing to let Mr. Isenberg go. We then told 

him, that I wished to remain here, and in course of 

time to go the Gallas, to preach the Gospel to them. 

He answered, " That \dll not do : the GaUas will kill 

you.'' The people of Shoa attempted to convert these 

heathens by means of war and magic sentences ; but 

they refused to accept the Christian faith. 



Sept. 25 — This morning, about seven o'clock, I 

set out from Debra Berhan to visit Tegulet, the an- 

cient capital city of Shoa, and a river called Salatsha, 

which flows at the foot of the mountain on which 

Tegulet is built. I went in an easterly direction, and 

came to a mountain, where a steep way conducted me 

into the dale where the river flows. Having arrived 

at the river, I could not find a way to ascend the 

mountain on which Tegulet is built, though I could 

see very well the place where the city was. At pre- 







MILITARY EXERCISES. 113 



sent there is a village there, called Etake. I saw a 

large wall, a work of old, which connects the village 

with a neighbouring mountain. In the midst of the 

wall is a large opening. 



Sept. 26 — This day we saw the King's soldiers ex- 

ercised, which takes place every year at the time of 

Mascal — a feast in memory of the invention of the 

cross. About nine o'clock we were called to the 

King. He was sitting at the entrance of his house 

surrounded by a number of his governors. AYe were 

ordered to take our seats by them. A number of sol- 

diers then appeared, having in their hands a bushel of 

s^'itches, on the top of which a bundle of flowers was 

bound. A horseman rode up and down several times 

before then* front, who at last cast down his two lances 

on the ground, and in the same moment all cast away 

their switches. The ceremony was then finished. The 

King then ascended a balcony, which had been 

erected several days before. Having waited a little, 

we were called to take our seats in the balcony with 

the governors and other favourites of the King. The 

King was sitting in a small cabinet erected on the 

balcony, his favourite governors sitting at his side. 

These are Maratsh and Tshitshigoo. Then the respec- 

tive governors, with their troops firing guns, defiled 

before the King, on a large meadow-gi'ound. About 

6,000 men defiled before the King. About two o'clock 

we retired to our house. 







CHAPTER II. 



RETURN TO ANKOBAR — ACCOUNT OP A SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONY — 

REMARKS — SLAVES IN THE SERVICE OF THE KING — CONVERSATIONS 

ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS — NOTICES OF THE GOVERNMENT, DISCIPLINE, 

AND USAGES OF THE ABYSSINIAN CHURCH — VLSIT TO THE KING AT 

ANGOLLALA — DISCUSSION WITH DEBTERA SANDJAR ON DOCTRINAL 

POINTS — MR. ISENBERG'S INTERVIEW WITH THE KING PREVIOUS TO 

HIS DEPARTURE FROM SHOA— MR. KRAPF RETURNS TO ANKOBAR — 

VISIT TOALACA WOLDA HANNA^CONVERSATION WITH PRIEST TSED- 

DOO ON BAPTISM — VISIT TO THE ALACA OF AFERBEINI — CUSTOMS OF 

THE GALLAS — ABYSSINIAN MODE OF INSTRUCTING YOUTHS— CERE- 

MONY AT BAPTISM — NOTICES OF VARIOUS TRIBES. 



Sept. 27, 1839 — The King liaving sent us word, that 

we should go with him to Angollala, I resolved on re- 

turning to Ankobar. Mr. Isenberg followed the King 

to Augollala, in order to take leave of him. I arrived 

at Ankobar about three o'clock in the afternoon. On 

entering the town, I was stopped by the people of the 

Governor, to wait for orders from him. I went on my 

way, however, knowing that the King had given no 

orders to prevent my entering the town. A gi*eat num- 

ber of those who had visited us before for instruction, 

came to ask how I did, and whether we were all well. 

SejJt. 28 — Mr. Isenberg arrived this morning at 

Ankobar. He brought me the news, that a messenger 







LESSONS IN GEOGRAPHY. 115 



has arrived from Adowali, informing the King of the 

arrival of fom* Eui-opeans, who wished to come to Shoa. 

The same messenger brought the news, that Oobieh, the 

Zetshesmatsh of Tigre, had put Cassai, the son of Sa- 

bagadis, in fetters. 



Sept. 30 — Since the people have learned that jIr. 

Isenberg intends to leave Shoa, they have come in 

numbers begging for medicine. This morning one of 

our copyists came asking medicine for a monk. Mr. 

Isenberg took the opportunity to speak to him about 

monkery. The rainy season seems to be coming again, 

it having rained very much for the last few days. Sa- 

wold repeated his visit to us, and turned the conversa- 

tion again to the subject of Chronology. In the even- 

ing the son of Alaca Wolda Serat came begging us to 

teach him Geogi-aphy. Several boys and priests were 

here. I have finished with Guebra Georgis, the Geogra- 

phy, and in the Universal Histoiy I have proceeded as 

far as the time of the Reformation. I have also read 

with him the Gospels of St. INIatthew, Mark, and Luke. 



October 1 — Very early this morning, the son of 

Alaca Wolda Serat came. I began to instruct him in 

Geography. Afterward, the son of the Alaca of 

Aferbeini came, bringing the Psalms I had sent 

him, saying, that the Alaca wished for something 

greater than that, of which he would inform to us. We 

sent him word, that it caused us much pain to see 

those, whose duty it was to teach others, not like the 

Word of God. He went away ; but returned in the af- 







116 ACCOUNT OF A 



ternoorij sa}dug, that we should not be offended, as the 

Alaca had ah'eady received a copy of the Psalms from a 

monk who got it at Axum, and was not in want of ano- 

ther ; but that he would be glad of a New Testament. 



Our Workie asked us, whether we knew anything 

of the traveller Arada, who came to Abyssinia, and 

having travelled in so many other countries, be- 

came a proverb in Abyssinia ; as for instance, Ras 

Michael having returned with his troops to Gondar 

from the country of the Gooderoos, said, " We have 

travelled like Ai-ada/' 



This evening we witnessed a very mournful cere- 

mony. A woman in our house, the wife of a man from 

Gurague, began suddenly to sing. At first we did 

not listen to her ; but several times repeating her 

song, we asked what it was. Guebra Georgis told us, 

that she wished to expel the bad spirits which she im- 

agined would inflict her with sickness. In singing she 

repeated the words ; "Lamana saijasu gena" — a prayer 

before the bad spirits are seizing me. Having finished 

her song, she smoked for a few minutes, and then sung 

again ; which having done she moved her head in every 

direction. I went to her, and asked what she was 

doing. At first I thought that she was out of her 

senses, as she gave me no answer. Mr. Isenberg, who 

was rather unwell to-day, also came to see her. He 

asked her, whether she was in the service of Satan ? 

But she continued her idolatrous ceremony. The 

people standing by brought her a red hen, which she 







SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONY. 117 



kissed and put on her neck ; but the hen of course did 

not stay there. She then moved her head again and 

changed her clothes. Mr. Isenberg again spoke to her 

about her sinful performances. We were about to leave 

her, when she said, " ]May God come upon you, that 

you came to me.^' Mr. Isenberg replied, " How do 

you know God, as you serve the false god like the 

heathens ?^' We then returned to our room, and asked 

om* boy about the meaning of the ceremony, when he 

gave us the following particulars. The Gallas and all 

of the people of Gurague and Shoa, who are smokers, 

beUeve that there are eighty-eight spirits, which they 

call Sarotsh — in the singular, Sar — These spirits are 

said to walk about and inflict men with sickness ; and 

hence, when such persons feel sick, they take their 

refuge in superstitious means. By smoking and sing- 

ing, moving then- body, and particularly by offering a 

hen to the Sar, they imagine that they can frighten 

away the bad spirit and secm-e themselves against being 

sick. The Sarotsh are divided into two parties, each 

having its Alaca or head. One iVlaca is called Mama, 

who has forty-fom* Sarotsh under his command : the 

name of the other Alaca is Warrer, and has the same 

number of Sarotsh under him. Each Sar has a par- 

ticular name. When persons perform such a ceremony, 

they speak in another language. Thus, for instance, 

they call a hen, " Tshari" — in the Amharic, a hen is 

called Doro. The hen is afterward slaughtered and 

eaten by the assistants, except the brains, which are 







118 REMARKS ON 



only eaten by the person who has performed the most 

part. In choosmg a hen they prefer a red one. The 

King has given orders to abolish this heathenish cus- 

tom, and the priests have forbidden the people to smoke, 

having observed that all smokers are fond of this 

custom. 



These proceedings characterize very much the Chris- 

tians of Abyssinia. They mix all together — Chris- 

tianity, Judaism, IMahomedanism, and Heathenism. 

The ceremony just mentioned is common to them, as 

well as the Gallas ; and the opinion of the above men- 

tioned priest, respecting the interpolations of Scripture 

made by the Jews, is evidently a Mahomedan doctrine. 

Their distinctions of clean and unclean food, and the 

use of circumcision, as well as many other ceremonies, 

are clear evidences of a mixture with Judaism. We 

cannot expect a better state of religion among them, 

inasmuch as a string of silk put around their necks 

as a sign of their Christianity — mortification of their 

flesh by much fasting — a strict separation from Maho- 

medans by not eating with them — their kissing 

churches — imploring Saints — disputing about the 

births of Christ — pilgrimages to Jerusalem, or to the 

grave of Tecla Haimanot — all these things together 

cannot change their hearts, nor secure them against the 

inroads of Satan. The priests, instead of conducting 

the people to Christ, assume the lordship over them, 

engrossing their attention with vain fables and stories 

of saints, to whom they direct them for refuge as 







SUPERSTITIOUS OBSERVANCES. 119 



their Saviours. Hence ignorance, superstition^ fleshly 

sins, particularly fornication, have prevailed among the 

people ; so that we may well wonder at the remnant of 

Christianity which still exists in this country. Who 

can cure the wounds of Abyssinia, but the Lord by 

His Spirit and His Word ? To give them His Spirit we 

are unable ; but we can serve them by supplying them 

with the Word of God. The Holy Scriptures must 

not only be laid down before the people, but they must 

be explained to them by word and by writing ; and the 

youth must be instructed in the holy truths of the 

Bible. The Lord be praised that He has enabled us 

to make a beginning, though a small one. The people 

know distinctly who we are, and why we have come to 

their coimtry. A number of persons have heard the 

sound doctrines of the Gospel, by reading the Scriptures 

and conversation with them. Mr. Isenberg has endea- 

voured to further our object, partly by conversing with 

the people who came to us, and partly by preparing 

several school-books, which I could make use of after 

his departure. I have, on my part, endeavoured, be- 

sides the iEthiopic and Amharic studies, to read with 

the people in the Holy Scriptures, in reading which I 

have got as far as the first Epistle of Paul to the 

Corinthians. The Lord grant that the number of 

our scholars may increase, as well as our means in 

receiving a great quantity of books ; but, above all, 

may He grant that we may be filled with the spirit of 

faith, love, wisdom, and prayer ! 







120 SLAVES IN THE KING's SERVICE. 



October 2, 1839 — To-day, I was again overrun with 

patients. Debtera Gucbra Selassieh brought his wife 

as a patient. This woman is at the head of the first 

class of the royal spinning women, who are two hun- 

dred in number, and have to spin the finer cotton for 

the royal cloth, which the King dresses himself and 

presents to his friends, ladies, governors, &c. A second 

class of spinning women are four hundred in number : 

these spin ordinary cotton for soldiers and others. All 

are in the service of the King, and seem to be free. I 

observe this circumstance here, because there are 

several hundreds of slaves, particularly females, at each 

of the King's residences at Ankobar, Angollala, Debra 

Berhan, and Kundy. The King's grinding women, 

for instance, at Ankobar are, I believe, three hundred 

in number. The water girls, who have to carry all the 

necessary water for the King's household, and for 

foreigners who are maintained by the King, are more 

than that number : his female cooks, I think, are 

two hundred. He has also some hundreds of women to 

prepare beer and hydromel; so that the number of 

female-slaves at Ankobar only in the King's posses- 

sion exceeds by far one thousand. A large number of 

male-slaves of the King are chiefly employed in carry- 

ing wood. The number of slaves at each of the three 

other residences is not quite so large as that of Anko- 

bar ; but there are many hundreds at each. They are 

for the greater part from Gurague ; others are Gallas, 

Shankelas ; others from the Zindjero country ; from 







RELIGIOUS CONVERSATIONS. 121 



Enarea aucl CafFa, and many Abyssinians from Shoa, 

These and many other facts, may give a famt idea of 

what remains to be done in these quarters for the poor 

African slaves. 



Religious conversations always revert to the wor- 

shipping of saints^ fasting, ceremonies, &c. To-day I 

had again a long conversation with a priest of St. 

George's, and some other persons present, which began 

with speaking on Tecla Haimanot, in honour of whom 

four annual festivals are celebrated, when many patients 

are said to be cured from various diseases. The chief 

place for the celebration of these festivals is Debra 

Libanos, where there seems to be a mineral water, 

effectual particularly against rheumatism, paralysis, 

&c. Tecla Haimanot, they say, on arri^dng there 

from his journey, and being thirsty, prayed to God to 

open a fountain; when, through the agency of the 

archangel Michael, water sprang up at his feet, coming 

from Jordan. ATien this story was told to us to- 

day, we expressed our disbelief; and added, that we 

wanted neither true nor false miracles, as the mira- 

cles of Christ and His Apostles were quite sufficient. 

A long conversation then ensued on the worshipping 

of saints, when we laid particular stress on this 

point — that every honour paid to the creature, which 

ascribed to it some share in the working out our salva- 

tion, and implied a separation of Christ from His 

Church, or any imperfection of His work, was an offence 

against Christ. 







122 CONVERSATIONS WITH 



The conversation then turned to the relation between 

clergy and laity ; when they were told, that all Chris- 

tians were called to be a royal priesthood of God — that 

priests were called to be, not Lords over the faith of 

believers, but helpers of their jo?/— that the priest 

is to rank above the congregation in knowledge and 

experience, in order to shew the people the way to 

Christ — that the people must themselves go to Christ ; 

if they do not, the priest availed them nothing^ — and 

that if a layman be taught by Christ himself, by His 

Word and Spirit, he will lack nothing on account 

of the priest's not having been instrumental in bring- 

ing on his conversion. They were fin-ther told, that 

where a work of God is going on in the minds of the 

people, the priest is not to interfere, throwing difficul- 

ties in the way of believers ; that he has only to ex- 

plain the will of our common Lord to the inquirer, and 

to assure the repenting and belieang sinner from the 

Gospel, that his salvation has been wi'ought out by 

Christ; and that when saying, Egziabeheryiftahh — (May 

God absolve thee— the Abyssinian form of Absolu- 

tion), this is to be a prayer, not a magic form at the 

command of the priest; for the keys of Dadd are 

in the hands of Christ, and to His Word, priests and 

laymen are alike to submit themselves. 



This afternoon several people were at our house, 

with whom I conversed about our Missionary calling. 

The subject of om- conversation had previously been 

on the nature of faith and justification by it ; when a 







PRIESTS, AND OTHERS. 123 



brother of the Alaca of St. Michael observed, that if 

we continued to teach in this manner, a blessing would 

proceed from it to the country, for the people would be 

converted from their sins ; but now that I had resolved 

to go away, they would sink back into theii' darkness. 

I replied, that if they really loved the Word of God, 

they would apply for instruction to this fountain of 

wisdom itself, and God would give them His Spirit to 

lead them to Christ, and then they would have no 

occasion for our assistance ; but that if they had occasion 

for us and loved us, my Brother Krapf, who would remain 

among them, and who daily became more acquainted 

with their language, would instruct them ; and that our 

Society also would send other brethren to fill my place, 

and probably I should again come myself. They com- 

mended our disinterestedness in teaching the people, 

and administering medical assistance to the benefit 

of many gratuitously. To the latter point, I, in a 

friendly manner, remarked, that although we did not 

want them to pay us for any assistance, still they should 

not desire it gratuitously, because Scripture told us 

that the labourer is worthy oj his hire. 



Our conversation then turned on the distinction 

between Mahomedans and Christians, on the Mateb 

— a blue or white silk or cotton cord, which 

Christians wear round their neck — and on the dis- 

tinction in eating and drinking. I observed, that love 

was the distinguishing mark by which true Christians 

were known from other men, referring to the words of 



G 2 







124 THE CHARACTER OF TRUE 



Christy John xiii. 35. '^It is true/' said one of tlie 

priests of St. Michael's, " to be friendly with friends, 

and to good to the poor &c., is the first duty of all 

Christians." I told him, that this was not sufficient ; 

and put the question to him, whether if he loved his 

friend, it was not because his friend loved him ? This 

he could not deny. I then showed, him that in thus 

loving he loved his own self only. I asked, whether 

on being offended by any person he did not become 

angry? He answered in the affirmative. I then proved 

how this, which was far from being a distinguishing 

mark of Christianity, but very often met with among 

heathen and Mahomedans, was not real love, but 

selfishness; in contrast to which I endeavoured then 

to show what was true love, namely, loving our neigh- 

bour, without distinguishing between friend or enemy, 

on account of our common Creator and Redeemer, love 

being our happy duty and om- second nature ; and ob- 

served, that though love was in its expressions affected 

by the different characters and conduct of the beloved 

objects, it was not disturbed nor destroyed by them. 

He then asked, whether in our country there was no- 

thing like hatred and enmity ? I answered, that this 

question was not now a proper one ; but that if he 

saw and felt the truth of what had been said, he 

would take the subject into serious consideration, and 

endeavour himself to arrive at the possession of such 

love and such Christianity; and even if he should 

happen to become the only man in the world who so 







CHRISTIAN LOVE. 125 



loved ; yea, and that if he should find, that myself, who 

now shewed him the way, did not live according to it — 

for which I should be very sorry — this was to be no 

matter to him, he was not to be disturbed by it. It 

was, I said, a sad truth, that the disciples of Christ 

lived in no country unmixed ; but that there were 

everj-where true and false Christians mingled together, 

not excepting our own country. He was glad at hearing 

this, and said, " Then it is there as it is with us." I 

told him not to be glad, because, as I had said, it was 

a sad truth ; nor to rejoice too soon, for perhaps in no 

other country was there so little of true Christianity 

as in Abyssinia. 



October 3, 1839 — To-day we learned, that Wulasma 

]Iahomed had passed by this town on his way to 

Angollala. 



Two Abyssinians, Debtera Hailoo, father of our 

scholar Guebra Georgis, and one of our copyists, reques- 

ted me to take them with me to oui* country. I had 

asked Hailoo to send his son with me ; to which he 

replied, that he should be glad to accompany me him- 

self ; and if I would allow this, I could take his son 

also ; but that he could not part with his son. I could 

not comply with his request, because Hailoo is married. 

The copyist said, that he had a strong desire to see 

our country, and he was not bound by any tie to his own 

country. I asked him, whether he could spend 1000 

dollars for such a journey. He answered, that he 

could not spend ten dollars. When I told him, that 







126 CHURCH GOVERNMENT 



travelling was so expensive, lie asked, whetlier our 

people did not forward a poor traveller " Meente 

Maryan," (for Mary's sake.) I told him, that they 

did not understand the Abyssinian language in oiu' 

country. He replied, that he would apply to the 

study of our language ; and asked, whether they 

would not for the sake of the Virgin forward him on 

his journey. I said that they would, if he could prove 

to our people that Mary had sent him, which he could 

not. 



October 4, 1839— Priest Abba Tseddoo gave us this 

evening some details concerning the government, disci- 

pline, and usages of their Church. 



Government. — The number of priests and deacons 

which are thought necessary for each Church, is twenty ; 

one third of whom have to officiate during one week, 

while the other two thirds rest. There are, however, 

few Churches at present in this kingdom which pos- 

sess the full number, owing to the want of an Abuna, 

or Bishop, for the last eleven years, to ordain priests 

and deacons ; so that there are many Churches which 

have been shut for want of priests. During the week 

the priests officiate, they live apart from their families. 

Each priest has got a number of spiritual children. 

In one sense, all those who are imder his clerical care 

as penitents, to whom he administers absolution and 

sacrament, are his spiritual children ; but more strictly, 

the bovs who go to him to be instructed, and 

entrust themselves to his special clerical care, are called 







AND DISCIPLINE. 127 



his spiritual sons. At the commencement of their ward- 

ship, they solemnly promise, that they will obey 

their priests, observe all the usages prescribed by the 

Chm-ch, (and, Abba Tseddoo said, the Word of God,) 

give alms to friars, to the poor, the widows and orphans ; 

and frequently take the Lord's Supper. In this manner 

they remain with the priest for several years, and then 

they decide whether they will marry ; and, if so, whe- 

ther they will devote themselves to the priesthood or 

not, or whether they give themselves to the monastic 

life. If they intend to marry, the priest has to guide 

their choice, &c. If they enter upon the monastic life, 

they have to take a vow, never to have the least inter- 

com'se with the other sex, never to look at a woman, 

nor hear her voice, nor to eat anything which has been 

di'essed by women, not even bi'ead, &c. This, of 

course, leads them to convents, where no females are 

allowed to enter. 



Discipline.* In cases of criminal intercourse with 

women, a monk is cxconnnunicatcd for twenty years ; 

a married man — whether of the clergy or the laity, — 

for forty years ; and a priest loses his office, and is re- 

moved into the laity. I asked Abba Tseddoo, what was 

done when an excommunicated person died before his 

time had transpired. He answered, that in such cases 

the priest endeavoured to prepare the dying penitent ; 



* I relate here exactly what the priest told me, not adding any re- 

marks, reserving some necessary explanation perhaps for another 

opportunity. 







128 CHURCH DISCIPLINE. 



that if the latter really repented of his sins, the priest 

promised to take half the remaining time of penitence 

upon himself, and to work it out by fasting and prayer ; 

and for the other half, he endeavoured to persuade him, 

if he possessed any property, to distribute it among 

the poor, the priests, and monks; to order Tescars — 

feastings to the clergy and the poor in remembrance of 

the dead person, for the purpose of encom-aging many 

prayers for him — to see prayers performed, and the 

Lord's Supper administered in his favour; and thus 

the priest dismissed the dying person with the abso- 

lution, and then the latter would, after his death, arrive 

in the Sheol — intermediate place between hell and 

heaven — where he had to stay until by his alms, tescars, 

prayers, fastings, and communion (masses) he got to 

heaven. I asked him, whether this discipline was really 

observed. He replied, very seldom ; though it is still 

acknowledged. On my inquiring, whether they had 

any divine authority for prescribing as well as observ- 

ing such discipline, he referred to certain sentences 

which he thought were taken from the Gospel ; but 

which are derived from the Fathers. Upon showing 

him this, he appealed to the apostolical constitutions, 

and Fetha Negest — their code of laws. I answered, 

that those laws must be judged by the Word of God, 

and deviated from where they do not agree with it. I 

then showed him Luke xvi, concerning Dives and 

Lazarus, dwelling particularly on the great gulf fixed 

between heaven and hell, and the impossibility of pas- 







ABYSSINIAN STORY. 129 



sing from one to the other. He said, " This passage 

must be explained." I asked, how he was able to ex- 

plain it so as to maintain his doctrine and the usage 

of his Church, without explaining it away. He 

referred to the passage : " Whatsoever ye shall hind 

on earth, 8^'c." I observed to him, that this passage 

took for granted the submission of the Apostles as well 

as their followers, the ministers of the Gospel, un- 

der the entire Word of God, and thus the terrible 

gulf was not filled up. He then related the follow^- 

iug story, which he said was contained in Athanasius' 

writings, and which I had heard once from Debtera 

Abisalom at Adowah. A certain rich man, called 

Bael, died, after having amassed many treasvu'es, 

not having cared for the state of his soul. His pious 

son, who, during his father's life-time, had often in 

vain reminded him to think on eternity, saw in a 

di-eam his soul going into hell-fire ; so that nothing re- 

mained to be seen, not even the hairs of his head, 

being wholly drowned in the fiery sea. Yhen he 

awoke, his fearful dream had such an eficct upon him, 

that he immediately sat to work, collected one half 

of his father's treasures, and gave them to the poor 

and to the churches^ ordering prayers to be offered. 

Psalms to be read, fastings performed, and commmiion 

administered for his late father. Soon after he had 

the pleasure to see the good effect of his exertions; 

for, in another dream, he saw again the flaming abyss, 

and his father rising out of it, above its surface, up to 



G 5 







130 CONVERSATION ON 



liis loins. Encouraged by this success^ he gave the 

remaining half of his father's possession for the same 

purpose as the first, and his father ascended out of 

hell -fire into heaven. In reply to this story, I told 

him, that we considered Athanasius to have been one 

of the most distinguished Fathers, and that we hon- 

oured him much on account of his manly conduct in 

struggling against Arianism for the glory of the Son 

of God, and on account of the sufferings he endured 

in that cause ; but, nevertheless, we felt obliged to 

examine into his doctrines, and such things as did not 

harmonize with the letter and tendency of the Scrip- 

tures we must reject ; and if this story, which he 

had been relating to me, was really contained in Atha- 

nasius' writings, we should reject it as anti-scriptural, 

thou2;h I doubted whether it had not been falsely 

ascribed to him. As to my own feelings, I said, that I 

could not ventm-e to pray for any dead person, however 

dear to me in this world, because St. Paul says. Whatso- 

ever is not of faith is sin; reasoning thus: — Faith is 

grounded upon the Word of God ; a faithful prayer is 

such as has a Divine command, and a Divine promise 

for its basis. Now as to dead persons, we have neither 

Divine command nor promise encouraging us to pray 

for them ; and, consequently, we cannot pray in faith, 

if we really pray for them ; and not being able to pray 

in faith, our prayer, instead of being answered, would 

be counted as an addition to our numberless sins. And 

a further proof of this, was James i. 6, 7 ; iv. 3. The 







PRAYING FOR THE DEAD. 131 



fact was, that we believed the fate of mortals, at least 

those to whom the Word of God was given, to be 

decided immediately after death — Luke xvi ; Hebrews 

ix. 27. Here was the seed-time, and hereafter the har- 

vest ; and he that died in sin, for him w^as no further 

sacrifice ; and even if we should suppose that God had 

provided means for their salvation, as they were not 

within our reach, nor knowledge, we could by no means 

make any use of them. He answered, that it w^as true 

that those who died in sin, had nothing but darkness 

before them ; but that from behind this world, there 

fell some few rays of Hght into their path, which tended 

to lessen their dark night a little ; and if they made a 

proper use of these rays, they would increase, and by 

degi-ees lead them to full light. This is in itself an 

ingenious idea ; but, who will lighten the w^ay for the 

dead, as well as for the living, if not that ivord, tvhich 

is a lamp u?ito my feet, and a light unto my path ? 



Marriage. — With regard to mamages, he said that 

their Chm*ch permitted successive marriages : with lay- 

men as many as four. They, however, do not cpiitc 

agree with each other, some Churches not allowing more 

than three. If people wish to live in accordance wnth 

the Church, they are obliged, after their last marriage, 

to enter the monastic life, not, however, as it seems, with 

the same restrictions as the regular Abyssinian monas- 

tic order. 



Fasting. — Concerning fasting, he mentioned, that 

many people did not observe the forty-days fasting (of 







132 ON FASTING. 



Lent), nor the fast of the Apostles (after "Aliitsun- 

dav, of twelve days continuance) ; nor that of the 

Vh-gin's assumption (a fortnight) nor Tsoma Ledat 

(Advent) ; but he that observed no fasting at all, woidd 

not be interred in the Church's burial ground. I asked, 

how it was that so many people scarcely ever fasted. 

He replied, that they still fasted every Wednesday and 

Friday ; and that they were not admitted to the Com- 

munion, except they made penances for their non-ob- 

servance of the Saint's fastings. An honourable burial, 

however, was not refused to them. I asked him, whe- 

ther they would bury us, since we did not observe their 

fastings. He said, that they would; for our Church 

did not prescribe fasting. He then related of Abba 

Mohallem — a certain Armenian Wortabet, of the name 

of Yohannes, who died here last year — that he had not 

fasted at first, and had even eaten meat on Wednesdays 

and Fridays, whereby the people of Shoa thought that 

the Armenian Chuch had no fastings ; but that after they 

had several times m-ged him to fast, he at last yielded, 

complying with the Abyssinian custom. 



Many have asked from us the famous " medicine of 

colours." To-day a boy, belonging to St. Michaers, 

mentioned it again ; but I was glad to observe that he 

was not so superstitious ; for he remarked, that that 

medicine indeed produced pain in the bowels, but 

did not open the head. 



October 5, 1839 —To-day Abba Tseddoo brought us 

a Genzet — formulary for the burial of the dead — which 







VISIT TO ANGOLLALA. 133 



they say originated witli Athanasius ; and in order to 

render it still more important, it is stated in the book 

itself, that Helena had discovered it, at the digging 

out of the Holy Cross. At the same time, however, 

the councils of Nice, Constantinople, and Ephesus are 

mentioned in it, whereby it is clear that it cannot 

have been wn-itten by Athanasius, at least not in its 

present form. 



This evening a messenger arrived from the King, 

who ordered us to come to Angollala to-morrow, when 

probably my departure will be settled. 



October 8 — The day before yesterday it rained so 

heavily in the morning, that we feared we should not be 

able to go to Angollala ; but on the sky clearing up 

in the afternoon we set out. We had, however, not 

gone far, when it began again to rain tremendously ; we 

could but nth difficulty and danger pass the toi*rent 

Airara — about three miles west of Ankobar — and the 

road was so bad, that we were obliged to remain at 

Metatit. There we took our lodgings with the Tchikka 

Shum — literally, governor of the clay or dirt — whose 

duty it was to receive us. When I saw them smoking 

tobacco, I asked, whether they did it to honour the 

Sarotsh (See Oct. 2), which they at fii'st denied, but 

afterward acknowledged : I took this opportunity to 

show them the sinfulness of doing so. 



Yesterday morning at seven o'clock we left INIctatit, 

and about three o'clock in the afternoon arrived at An- 

gollala. The house where we lived formerly, was now 







134 THE KING IN COURT. 



occupied by its ovAoier, Habta Maryam. Wliile Atkoo, 

our guardian, looked out for another house, I went to 

see M. Rochet, who had been received by the King into 

his house. The court was quite full of people; for the 

King had guests wdth him, among others a late General 

of Ras Ali. "When waiting on the minister, Serta 

Wold, Mahomed Ali, from Tadjurra, who had accompa- 

nied M. Rochet, accosted me. Serta Wold introduced 

me, not to M. Rochet, whom on the present occasion I 

had come to see, but to the King, who sat at judgment 

in unusual pomp, the balcony where he sat being lined 

with a great variety of coloured cloth, and the ground 

below, where his grandees and governors, judges, ala- 

cas, &c., sat and stood, covered with Persian and Tur- 

kish carpets. I paid my compliments from below to 

the King, who very friendly answering ordered me to 

sit on the carpets. A cause was examined between two 

persons, a man and a woman ; which was soon finish- 

ed, when I thought the King would have sent for us ; 

but he did not, being occupied I suppose with other 

business. As Mr. Krapf had also arrived in the mean 

time, we inspected a new house which was being built 

for the King, and then went to see M. Rochet, who 

was suffering from fever. 



A few Letters from Basle, Barmen, and Cairo, which 

M. Rochet brought us, were very refreshing to us. 



October 9, 1839 — The brother of our friend Alaca 

Habta Selassieh at Oobieh^s court, known from Mr. 

Gobat's and our former journals, having several times 







CHRIST'S HUMAN NATURE. 135 



applied for medicine, I liad ordered him to collect camo- 

miles, which are fomid in great plenty on the Chakka 

and near Ankobar, called to-day again ; and when 1 

offered to him tartar emetic for his complaint, he would 

not accept it, but asked for paper, on which he wished 

to have a charm written against his disease. I refused 

to give him the paper, explaining the sinfulness of 

such a practice to him ; and being exceedingly pressing, 

I was obliged to request him not to speak any more 

about it. 



After dinnci', Debtera Sandjar called on us. Some 

very important doctrinal points were treated upon in 

oiu" conversation, particularly universal sinfulness, not 

excepting the saints. He maintained that Christ at His 

incarnation took on himself human nature, in the same 

state as Adam was before the fall ; with which I agreed, 

obsernng, however, that his nature differed from Adam^s 

innocent nature so far, that Christ's humanity was not 

exempt from sinless infirmity and disposition to dis- 

eases, and even death ; which was the consequence and 

punishment of our sin. Tliis I proved by some circum- 

stances in the life of our Sadour ; namely, that He hun- 

gered and thirsted, underwent fatigue, and other states 

of weakness and sickness, which could not be sup- 

posed to have occurred in the state of Adam's innocence. 

"When, by way of illustration, I observed, that when a 

man suffered hunger for a long time he would die, and 

death was the wages of sin, he denied the force of this 

argument, because all the cases in which this occurred 







136 UNIVERSALITY OF SIN. 



were with sinful men, all men being sinners. I then 

alluded to some saints, who had been starved to death, 

not on account of their sins, but for the name of Jesus, 

because they believed in Him. He objected, that we 

ourselves maintained, that even the saints had not been 

free from sin, and on this account, were subject to death ; 

whether it was then from hunger or any other cause 

they died, it mattered nothing. I must observe, that 

1 had taken this argument, inconclusive as it really was, 

because I took for granted, that he, like the Abyssin- 

ians in general, believed the saints to be free from sin. 

I asked him then, whether he agreed with us in this 

material point. He answered, " Yes, I fully agree ^^•ith 

you." I replied, that on this assertion I did not 

mind yielding for the present to him the other point 

as non-essential, since he submitted to that chief doctrine 

of the Scriptures, that no man except Christ ever had 

been or was without sin ; upon which he repeated his 

strong belief in this doctrine. He then left us, with the 

promise often to call, in order to search the Scriptures. 

October 10, 1839 — This morning the King sent for 

us, in order to sj)eak with us concerning my journey. He 

asked what he should give me for my journey ; to which 

I replied, thanking him for his readiness to assist me, 

and obsering that it was om- principle not to trouble 

any one ; but as he was so generous toward us, I 

should thankfully accept what he was pleased to give. 

He offered to give me tlii-ee or fom* slaves. Not know- 

ing whether he intended to give male or female slaves, 







THE king's proffered assistance. 137 



I at once declined accepting any, on the general prin- 

ciples which he finds it so difficult to comprehend, since 

we had stated them several times before. IMale slaves 

I should perhaps have been disposed to accept, giving 

them theii- liberty at the same time, and trying to edu- 

cate them afterward. He then requested me to men- 

tion to him anything which was liked in oui- country. 

I then mentioned manuscripts and any works of art, 

from which it might be seen how far the Abyssinians 

were advanced in industry. He asked me to specify the 

manuscripts I wished for ; but when I did so, he express- 

ed himself soiTy at not being able to let me have them, 

he himself being in want of them. He said, that 

he had sent fifty dollars to Godjam in order to get two 

copies of their chronological work called Abooshaker. 

Concerning our provisions, he said, that he had given 

orders for them already, as well as a mule for 

myself, and one for my servant. On requesting him 

to inform me what he wished for from our country, he 

said, that he wished for nothing, except a coining 

apparatus. I asked him, whether he wanted any work- 

men. He replied that he did not, because there were 

excellent workmen then on the road from Gondar. He 

then dismissed us, declaring that he intended to send us 

to-morrow. — Soon after, Serta Wold, presented me with 

some fine baskets from the King, and in the afternoon 

he brought two fine nudes, one for me, and one for the 

servant, and fifty dollars for me, and ten for the ser- 

vant, as the King's present for our journey. 







138 CONVERSATION 



October 13, 1839 — To-day, I arrived at Ankobar from 

Debra Berhan, mth my brother Isenberg, who had 

taken his farewell of the King. He treated him in 

a very friendly manner, and promised not only to pro- 

vide for Mr. Isenberg on the road, but also always to 

behave toward me as his son. In the evening several 

people came to see us, and among others Tseddoo, a 

priest of St. George, who began speaking about fasting. 

He said, that our doctrines and lives were blameless, 

only they would like us to fast, and receive with them 

the blessed sacrament. We replied, that we were much 

inclined to yield to their wish in respect to fasting, if 

it were not that we were grieved at seeing them aiming 

to be justified thereby before God As to the Lord^s 

Supper, I remarked, that, though I wished to receive 

it, I could not do so, as their ecclesiastical laws ex- 

cluded unmarried people from partaking of it. Besides, 

I had other reasons for not communicating with them. 

After the priest had left me, I thought it fit to consult 

with Brother Isenberg on this point before he departed. 

First, we considered that the omission of fasting had 

been a continual stumbling-block in the eyes of the 

Abyssinians since the commencement of our Mission 

in this countiy ; secondly, that fasting is not sinful 

in itself, and hence not against the principles of the 

Bible, nor the Church of England ; and thirdly, we 

referred to the examples of the apostles, particularly 

to that of St. Paul, who though he strictly adhered to 

justification by faith, yet condescended in this respect 







ON FASTING. 139 



of his own accord to the weakness of his brethren. 

Relying on this great example, we thought we could, 

with the Lord's assistance, resolve to fast, but only 

^■oluntarily and out of love to our brethren, not seeking 

thereby om* own righteousness. However, we thought it 

fit not to act rashly in this matter. 



October 16 — In the morning Guebra Georgis came. 

I read fii-st with him in the Gospel, and afterward we 

finished the Universal Histoiy, which Mr. Isenberg 

had written in Amharic. As Guebra Georgis has ex- 

pressed a wish to become acquainted with Church 

Histor}^, I shall accede to it, the more so as a useful 

preparatory woi-k, wi'itten likewise by Mr. Isenberg, 

will form the basis of my instruction. Afterward, the 

blind Debtera Habta Mariam, fi-om Basso in Godtsham, 

came. I had begun, the day before, to read to him the 

Epistle of St. Paul to the Romans, which Epistle I 

prefer in reading or speaking about religious matters, 

as it contains before all other books an antidote against 

this Pharisaical Church. The above named priest, 

Tseddoo, joined me in reading to Habta Mariam. We 

read Rom. ii. ; which occasioned a long conversation 

about real and nominal Christians. Then Alaca Tesfa 

came to see us. He said, that Abraham was the 

father of the Abyssinians, because Solomon had a son, 

named jMenelek, by the Queen of Arabia, who had 

been Queen of Tigre ; and that at the time of Solomon 

the tribe of Benjamin had entered Ethiopia, and the 

ark of the covenant had been brought from Jerusalem 







140 VISIT TO ALACA 



to Tigre. We told him^ first^ that there were no proofs 

in history that the queen was the mistress of Tigre at 

that time, or that she bore a chikl to Solomon; 

and, secondly, that Solomon was from the tribe of Judah, 

which tribe at this splendid period of the kingdom of 

Israel would not have left the holy land. As to the 

ark of the covenant, it was at Jerusalem several hundred 

years after Solomon ; and to appropriate a stolen 

sanctuary (because the Abyssinians say that the ark 

was stolen from Jerusalem) would be a sacrilege for ever 

disgraceful to the Abyssinian people. TVTiy did they 

not steal also the holy books of the Jews ? It is not 

probable that a sanctuary was stolen, over which the 

Jews had exercised the greatest watchfulness. Besides, 

more than 300 years after Christ's birth, at the time 

of their King's Abreha and Azbeha, the Abyssinians 

were heathens, worshipping the serpent ; how then could 

they have been Jews ? Finally, we exhorted him to 

study biblical and universal history. 



In the afternoon, we went to see Alaca Wolda 

Hanna. He asked about the day on which Christ was 

born and baptized. On replying that this was not 

precisely known, but that the ancient Fathers of the 

Church, ])articularly Chrysostom, appointed the 25th 

of December, as the day of Christ's birth, he said, 

" We know it very well ; Christ was born on the 29th 

of December, and was baptized on the 11th of 

January." We then spoke about the chronology before 

Christ. He said, that the Abyssinians counted nearly 







WOLDA HANNA. 141 



6000 years, proving this date from tlie three men 

praising God six times in the furnace. A treatise on 

the true interpretation of Scripture, treating its subject 

vnih. soHdity and conciseness, in the Amharic, or rather 

in the Ethiopic language, would I think contribute 

much to the removal of their false principles of the 

exposition of the Bible. On our way we called upon 

Alaca Serat. He spoke about the idolatry of the 

Hindoos, of which he had heard something in geogra- 

phy. We told him about the millions of their deities ; 

their absurd and cruel ceremonies ; and remarked, that 

the Word of God, if preached in purity and in the 

power of the Holy Ghost, would alone destroy the 

bulwarks of Satan. We related to him the history of a 

Brahmin, who, having put nails in his shoes, made a 

pilgrimage to a holy place, but was converted by a 

Missionary preaching on John i. 29. 



October 17, 1839 — Chm-ch History with Guebra 

Georgis and Makbeb. Guebra is taking delight in this 

study. After we had finished our lesson, Laaka Mariam, 

the Guraguean priest, whom I have mentioned before, 

came to see me. I said, that I had thought he had gone 

back to his country. We then read 2 Cor. v. I re- 

minded him of the great day of the Lord, before whom 

we wished to appear blameless ; and exhorted him 

to yield up his whole heart to Jesus Christ, and to 

teach his people in Gurague the Word of God. He 

then said, " I am much afraid of the Gallas on the 

road. I therefore request you to give me an Abenat 







142 CONVERSATION WITH TSEDDOO. 



(remedy) against my fear." At the same time he asked, 

whether if he carried on his head the copy of the New 

Testament which I had given him, it would be of any 

use. I replied, that the specific which I would advise, 

was the reception of the New Testament into his heart, 

and to commit himself and his way to the covenant God, 

who alone could preserve him, as he had protected us 

when travelling through the country of Adel. 



Priest Tseddoo then came, and conversed with me 

about the revealed and hidden church ; terms which in 

our theology, signify the visible and invisible church. 

I asked him, whether the people called Tabiban, or 

wise men, dwelling in the forest of Ankobar, were not 

ranked by the Shoans among the hidden church. He 

answered in the negative ; and said, that the Tabiban 

joined outwardly in fellowship with the Christians, but 

privately they followed their own religion, asserting that 

the Messiah was still to be expected. This people are 

working for the King, who presents them annually with 

twenty or twenty-five cows, and appoints their Alaca in 

case of vacancy. On speaking again about fasting, our 

servant Atkoo made use of a strange simile, saying, 

that if a mule was foddered too well, he woidd become 

unmanageable, and hence it was necessary to diminish 

his food. Thus fasting was a means of cooling and 

abating our flesh. First, I contended against this unbe- 

coming comparison between irrational animals and a 

Christian, who is bidden to eat and di'ink moderately, 

and to do all in the name of God and then I opposed 







FASTING. 14^3 



their stniggling for justification by fasting, turning his 

thoughts also to the bad consequences of their fasting 

as respects the body, saying, that at one time they aspired 

at killing their bodies by their abstemiousness ; while, 

at another time, they ate and drank to excess. In the 

one case, they were unable to work ; and, in the other, 

they swept away each other by enmity, hatred, and 

mm'der. Though he disputed my sapng that they 

killed themselves by fasting, yet he said that I had 

spoken the truth. 



October 18, 1839 — Hadng read with Guebra Georgis 

in the Gospel, I proceeded with the Chm'ch History. 

Several priests were also with us. Tseddoo brought a 

book called Tabiba Tabiban, much esteemed by the 

Abyssinians. It contains prayers against bad spirits. 

In the afternoon I went to see Abba Sawold, a monk, 

who is considered one of the most learned men of Shoa. 

He spoke about their seven chronologies ; but I found 

that all his wisdom is comprehended in their almanack, 

called Abooshaker. Afterward, I went on with Guebra 

Georgis in Church History, speaking about the Chris- 

tian life of the primitive Church. Tseddoo then asked 

about the qualifications required in oiu* ordination. 

ATien I told him, that a man destitute of learning and 

holy life, was not admitted to the ordination of a dea- 

con and priest, he was much struck, and said, " If this 

is required, we should succeed very badly in ordination." 

I then asked, what qualifications they required, and their 

mode of ordination. He said, that children dare not 







144 ORDINATION QUALIFICATIONS. 



know about this mystery ; that a person desirous of 

ordination from the Abuna, was asked, whether he un- 

derstood reading the Gospel ; which if he did, the Abuna 

breathed upon him, making the sign of the cross and 

having thus taken orders he receives the holy Supper, 

gives several pieces of salt to the Abuna, and the whole 

ceremony is finished. I spoke against the wanton man- 

ner in performing so holy a ceremony, and brought it in 

connexion with the corruption of the Abyssinian Church, 

obserWng, that if priests were unlearned men, their 

flocks woiddperish in ignorance ; and that if they did not 

live a holy life, the people would follow their example. 

Tseddoo then asked, why we did not wear a turban and 

a cross, as we were priests. I remarked, that the Word 

of God had not given us directions about the mode of 

dress, which varied in different countries and chm'ches. 

As to the cross, we wished it to be in om* hearts and 

doctrine, — to crucify, as Paul says, the flesh with its 

lusts, and to know nothing save Jesus Christ and him 

criLcified. I then rebuked him, on account of their pha- 

risaical doings, and of their putting flesh for spirit, and 

external performances for inward religion. He then said, 

that St. Paul, in healing sick persons, made the sign of 

the cross. I asked him to give me a proof from the 

New Testament ; but being rather puzzled, he said, " I 

will give you a proof to-morrow." 



October 19, 1839 — Tseddoo came very early this 

morning ; but instead of giving me a proof of what he 

had said yesterday, he maintained that the wood of which 







ON GOOD WORKS. 145 



the cross of Christ was made^ was called Wetckua, as is 

written in the book of Taniera Jesus. This matter led 

to a long chscourse about the difference between the 

Word of God and that of men. As in the mean time 

several people had come, I read the third chapter of 

Genesis, showing them the necessity of relying only 

upon the Word of God ; when a priest from Kuara, a 

province in the west of Dembea, began to speak about 

good works, referring to ^latt. xxv. 34 — 41. I ap- 

plied the aforesaid discom-se about the Word of God 

to him, sapng, that the Scriptm'es only could teach us 

what was a good work ; and that as the Abyssinians 

did not rely alone on that Word, I did not wonder at 

their confused and unscriptui-al views of good works. 

Finally, I exhorted them to examine themselves in the 

pm-e light of God's Word, in order to really know 

their sinfulness, and to repent ; to seek forgiveness 

through the blood of Christ ; and the experience of His 

love, by which they would be enabled to perform good 

works ; but that if they would not hear the voice of 

the Gospel, they would die in their so-called good 

works, or rather sins, and have to bewail their folly 

with the lost for ever and ever. 



Several boys afterward came, nth whom I first read 

in the New Testament, and then I began to make them 

acquainted with the Universal History in Amharic. 

On their leaving, I asked how many boys were in the 

school of St. George. They said, that twenty boys were 

instructed in singing, ten others in reading, and thirty 



H 







146 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 



exercised themselves in poems, all of whom were in- 

structed by six teachers ; and that if the Abuna should 

come, they would all go to Gondar, to take holy orders. 

On my asking, whether they were not afraid of the 

Gallas on the road, they said, that the King would 

charge a Galla Governor to take care of them on the 

way. 



October 20, 1839 — Tseddoo came, requesting me to 

read with him Matt. v. in iEthiopic, which I did. 

Speaking about proceedings before human judges, I 

asked how justice was administered in Shoa. Guebra 

Georgis, who was with us, said, that on a man^s being 

accused of theft, he was taken into three chm'ches, in 

each of which he took oath of not having stolen. If 

he be iipright and guilty, he confesses his sin before 

he is ordered by the priests to swear, retm-ns the stolen 

goods, and pays, as a fine, eight pieces of salt to the 

Governor. If the accuser should make oath against 

him, the man is forced to return the goods charged upon 

him, whether he may have stolen them or not. After- 

ward, I read Rom. iii. to the blind Debtera Habta 

Mariam. 



October 22 — Tseddoo turned the conversation upon 

baptism, saying, that a father who did not bring his 

child to the font on the fortieth day after birth, would 

be excommunicated ; and that when the child had been 

baptized, the holy supper was administered to it. I ob- 

jected to this as being inconsistent with 1 Cor, xi., where 

every one is exhorted to examine himself before he 







COXYERSATION OX BAPTISM, 147 



receives that Supper. Besides, it was inconsistent 

with the words of the institution of that sacrament, 

according to Matt, xxvi., where Christ commanded it 

to be received in remembrance of Him, which childi*en 

are incapable of. He admitted that their custom was 

not in accordance with the Scriptm-es. While we were 

engaged in our discourse, the above-mentioned monk, 

Abba Sawold, interrupted us, and commenced speaking 

about the two great witnesses in the Revelation of St. 

John. He said, that the Abyssinians were of opinion, 

that these were Elias and Enoch. I said, that we did 

not know this ; that as the prophecy was not yet 

accomplished, we could not know ; and that it did not 

become us to explain the "Word of God in accordance 

with our oyvn pre-conceptions. 



Tseddoo spoke about the instruction given to the 

Gallas intended to be baptized. They are taught, he 

said, the Symbolum Nizenum ; then the book Amada 

Mistir and Sena Fetrat, in which books there is much 

nonsense; after which they wear a Mateb, and are 

then baptized : but usually they are not taught so 

much before they are christened. If they should 

have been circumcised, and wear a Mateb — string of 

silk in sign of Christianity — and make an offering of 

some measures of wheat to the priest, they are at 

once baptized. The Symbolum Nizenum is called Zelota 

Haimanoth. They do not know the Symbolum Apos- 

tolicum, which may be a proof that this Symbolum 

was not eveiywherc used in the Church, or, what is more 



H 2 







148 ON FASTING. 



probable, was out of use when the Abyssinians became 

Christians. 



October 23, 1839— Church History with Guebra 

Georgis and jNIakbeb. Afterward, we read Matt. ix. A 

priest who Avas with us contended for the necessity of 

fasting, in consequence of the great depravity of the 

Abyssinians. "AVell," I said, "you bear \dtness against 

yoursehes; and as to the corruptness of Abyssinia, 

you have spoken the truth ; but you are deceived if 

you maintain that yom* depravity can be destroyed by 

fasting. If you think of crucifying your flesh in this 

way, and thus deliver yoiu'selves, you renounce Jesus 

Christ as the Saviom*, who is made to us ivisdom, 

righteousness, sanct'ification, and redeinj)tion. There- 

fore, God in His just judgment permits you to fall into 

all sins, that you may know yom' real corruption, and 

seek to be saved by faith in Christ, who came to call 

sinners to repentance.'^ 



In the evening, Tseddoo brought to me a book, 

called Lefafa Zedek, which is full of nonsense. The 

Abyssinians like it so much, that they have it put into 

their graves with them. 



October 24 — I went to see the Alaca of Aferbeini, 

whose Church is in a forest on the eastern side of 

Ankobar. He spoke about fasting. Afterward, I 

read Church History with Guebra Georgis, and some 

others. T^Tienl spoke about the Nicene Council, Guebra 

said, that the Abyssinians were of opinion that Maho- 

med, the prophet of the Mahomedans, was one of the 







VISIT TO AILO TSANNA. l-i9 



318 fathers congregated at Nice ; but as Satan pos- 

sessed him, he parted from the fathers. But Guebra 

Georgis knowing the time of the Nicene Council, and 

the rise of INIahomed, laughed at this ignorance of his 

people. He then asked, whether Mary corJd be called 

"WolacUta Amlak (who brought forth God). I showed 

him ]Matt. i. 16, 25, and John iii. 1 ; whereupon he 

said, " I understand it : she must be called Woladita 

Jesus, (mother of Jesus. )^^ 



October 25 — In the morning we were called by the 

Governor of the town, Ailo Tsanna. He said, that 

he had got strict orders from the King not to let jMr. 

Isenberg go before he had disclosed to him a great 

secret. On asking what this secret was, he showed us a 

bone, on which was written some Arabic characters ; and 

requested us to tell him of what use the bone was, as the 

King wished to know. Mr. Isenberg told him to throw 

the bone away, as it was quite useless; and that a 

knave must have given it to the King in the hope 

of getting a good reward. Mterward, I came with 

Guebra Georgis in Church Histoiy to the Gnostics. 

I showed him the bad consequences of a Christian 

teacher not relying solely upon the Bible. 



October 26— Two priests of Gurague came to see 

me. They had arrived at Angollala in four days from 

Aimellel. Aimellcl is on the frontiers of Gurague. 

They asked me much about my country, Jerusa- 

lem, and whether we had slaves like their country- 

men. Knowing that slavery is much practised in 







150 PRODUCTIONS OF EXAREA AND GURAGUE. 



Gurague, I insisted upon proving to them both from rea- 

son and Scriptm-e, the sinfulness of this traffic. After- 

ward, the Wind Debtera Habta Mariam came, to whom 

I explained Rom. v. 



To-day we learned concerning Sidama, that it is 

situated to the west of the blue Nile, between the 

Gooderoo country and Enarea. In Sidama, Enarea, 

and CafFa, are many Christians: beyond the two 

latter countries Gallas are said to live, who, the Abys- 

sinians say, have no language. From Enarea par- 

ticularly they bring good coffee, better than that which 

is cultivated near the lake of Tsana, and the civet-cat. 

Shankelas, who live not far from the fountains of the 

blue Nile, bordering on the Agows, and go quite 

naked, are said to collect much gold, which they bring 

to Goudar for sale. From Gm-ague they bring to 

Shoa carpets, made of ensete ; gm-arima, a certain 

spice which I do not know ; some gold, and skins of 

brown leopards, which they call gisselas. The chief 

articles which are imported into Enarea, are blue Surat 

cloth, and rock salt from Arho, in the south of Tigre, 

which latter article is cn-rent in many of these countries 

instead of money. Coined money does not seem to be 

used in the countries west and south of Abyssinia. 

Gold is found in several places. It is occasionally found, 

afterthe rainy season, near Debra Berhan,when thewater 

has washed away some of the ground, and brought the 

gold to light. Priest Laaka Maryam says, that Gura- 

gue contains much gold ; but this man is not to be 







GALLA TRIBE GELAN. 151 



depended upon for liis statements. The country on 

botli sides of the Tshatsha river^ not far from Angol- 

lala, is veiy rich in metals; many of the Tabiban 

have settled in small huts on its shores, where they 

dig and work ii'on. But this iron does not seem to be 

so good as the Tigre iron, which is of an excellent 

quality. 



October 27, 1839 — My Galla servant, Berkie, from 

Kum Dengai, in the tribe of Gelan, gave me the following 

information about his people. The priests, who are 

called Kallitshotsh, offer an annual sacrifice to the Wake 

under a tree, called Riltoo. In offering it, they pray : 

" Wake, give us tobacco, cows, sheep and oxen, and 

help us to kill om* enemies. Wake, take us to thee ; 

lead us to the garden ; lead us not to Satan.^' They 

have also sorcerers, who are called Lubotsh — in the 

singular, Luba. These priests go every year to Woda- 

nabe, a large worka-tree, near the Hawash, where 

they make their prayers and divinations from looking 

upon the entrails of goats and sheep. If the entrails 

appear very red, the Luba says, that the Gallas will 

be overpowered by the Christians. The priests dry 

these entrails, and wear them round their necks. The 

Gallas do not like to have a Christian Governor placed 

over them, because, they say, that they would become 

Christians, and then very soon die. If they get a 

Christian Governor, they all cry together : " Ila batu ! 

ha batu ! " — May he perish ! May he perish ! When the 

Gallas take an oath they make a ditch, and say, "If we 







152 CUSTOMS OF THE GALLAS. 



are forswearing ourselves, may we be cast into this pit." 

T^Tien a Galla takes a wife, her father gives her a dow- 

ry ; but if she is parting with her husband, she goes 

out empty handed. In general the Gallas take three 

wives. When the father of a family dies, the childi'en 

cut off their hair and shave themselves. They then 

slaughter a cow and eat it with their relations, but not 

before the dead is interred. Marriages are performed 

before the Abatiila, a petty governor of several villages. 

If a Gallas kills a male, he is to pay 100 Kum, 

that is to say, 100 oxen, and is otherwise punished. 

If he kills a female, he is to pay fifty Kum, or fifty 

oxen. As to the places of the dead, they are of 

opinion, that Christians, Mahomedans, and Gallas go 

to different places after death. Aloes are planted on 

their graves. As soon as the plant begins to grow, 

they say, that the soul of the dead is gone to the 

garden, to the Wake, — the God of the universe, whom 

they consider an invisible and very fine being. When 

a Galla has been detected in lying, he is despised, 

and loses his seat and vote in public meetings. Berkie 

also told me, that a species of great leopards existed 

in the province of Shoa Meda, which are fiercer than 

those of Efat, and enter into the house of the people : 

it is called Woba. I am unable to say whether it is 

the Asiatic tiger. 



I asked a priest, who was with me about the com'se 

which the Abyssinian teachers pvirsued in instructing 

youths. He said, that the boys were first instructed 







INSTRUCTION OF YOUTHS. 153 



iu reading the seven Epistles, called Catholic — the 

Abyssiniaus call them Gebata Hawarjat. Afterv'ard 

they read the Book of Revelations, the Gospels, the 

Acts, and Epistles of St. Paul, They learn by heart 

the greater part of these books. Afterward they read 

the Organon Mariam, Isaiah, AYoudassie Anilak, Hiob, 

Psalms, Synkesar, Guebra Hemamat, Gadela Georgis, 

Pentateuch, Genset, Semarie and Kenie, and Aboo- 

shaker. A learned man knomng all this is called a 

great Lik (master). Few people finish this course. 

The greater part of the scholars are content with learn- 

ing singing, as they are enabled by this to officiate in 

Church after having taken holy orders. The course of 

study is different in some parts of Abyssinia, as, for 

instance, in Godtsham, as I learned from the blind 

Debtera Habta Mariam. 



October 28, 1839— A Debtera of the Church of St. 

Mai-y's came requesting us to give him the seven colours. 

We asked, which colours he meant. He replied, Efran, 

Kai Kallem, Maseka, Afera Mesk, Kafara Lake, Sum 

el far ; but the seventh he did not know. As the Abyssi- 

niaus believe that a man who has got these seven colours 

is in possession of all wisdom, we remarked, that we 

wondered at their being so ignorant, if they knew of 

such a remedy; but as for ourselves, we did not know 

any other way of getting knowledge than by daily ex- 

ercise, and prayer for God's blessing. 



This evening I finished reading with Tseddoo the 

Epistle of St. Paul to the Galatians: I have endeavoured 



H 5 







154 ABYSSINIAN LITURGY. 



to show him from this Epistle the scriptural way of 

becoming righteous before God. The son of Alaca 

Serat came, saying, that as Mr. Isenberg was going, 

and I intended to remain in their country, I should 

follow their customs. I said, that we who are called 

Christians were to be directed by the Word of God, and 

not to encourage each other to follow human customs, 

God's Word alone showing us the way of salvation. I 

added, that I would rather encourage them to follow 

me, because if they examined my doctrine and life, they 

would find that it was more consistent with the Word 

of God, than their doctrines and lives. From that 

time he said no more about this. 



October 29, 1839 — The priest Tseddoo brought to 

me another book called, " Ridan." He then said, 

" If you go to our Church, you must kiss it before you 

enter." I said, "You must worship Him who re- 

sides in the Church, and is higher than the Chm*ch ; 

and your worship must be performed in truth and 

spirit." He then went away, but soon returned again, 

bringing with him the Abyssinian Liturgy. I found 

much therein which pleased me. I showed him our 

English Liturgy on this occasion. Afterward, a man 

of Gondar came, whom we asked about the present 

King, Wolda Dcnghel. He said that he was only a 

nominal King, and had no power at all ; that his 

annual income was 300 dollars, which he received from 

his Governors ; and besides which he has a share in the 

butter which is sold in the market place. 







BAPTISMAL SERVICE. 155 



This afternoon I was present at a baptismal service, 

to which INIamhera Tseddoo had also invited jIr. 

Krapf, but who declined the invitation. Two grown 

lip Mahomedans were baptized; one of them a man, 

a native of Gui'ague, the other a girl about four- 

teen years old, from the Dankali countrj^ both of whom 

were slaves ; with two little children, a boy and a girl. 

The service was performed under trees in the church- 

yard of St. George's. There were present several 

deacons and school boys, the persons to be baptized, 

with their respective god-fathers and god-mothers — 

each male having a god-father, and each female a 

god-mother — and the priest Tseddoo ; in all about 

twenty persons. Tseddoo with one of the Deacons, 

both clad in coloured Siu'at cloth, were the chief agents. 

The semce commenced in the greatest possible disor- 

der, all running to and fro. A deacon began to sing, 

and exhorted to prayer ; whereupon all joined to make 

a great clamour, singing the Wadassieh INIariam. A 

large broken jar, instead of the baptismal font, was then 

brought ; when, after a little more singing, the Priest 

Tseddoo inquired after the persons to be baptized, 

their god-fathers and god-mothers, and then laid his 

hands on the heads of the candidates. The Nicene 

Creed and the Lord's Prayer were then repeated, and 

the third Chapter of St. John's Gospel read with the ut- 

most rapidity. The baptismal jar was then filled \ith 

water, and consecrated in the following manner. 

Tseddoo held it over a censer filled with frankincense. 







156 BAPTISMAL SERVICE. 



having an iron cross in the other hand ; and bowing 

himself over the water, sang, " Blessed be the Father, 

and the Son, and the Holy Ghost ;" then raising his 

voice as loudly as he could, exclaimed, " One Holy' 

Father," at the same time di-awing the cross through 

the water in a cross direction, and touching the jar on 

four opposite parts in the form of a cross — " And one 

Holy Son " — repeating the same ceremony — " And one 

Holy Spirit," performing the same act, while the by- 

standers sang. The candidates then approached, led or 

carried by their sponsors, Tseddoo and the assisting 

Deacon each took from the sponsors one candidate, 

carrying the children under the arm, and taking 

the grown-up candidates by their beads, and made 

them worship in a circle, toward the fom- direc- 

tions of the horizon, the Father, the Son, and the 

Holy Spirit. The childi-en were then taken up, and 

dipped in the water up to the loins ; first in the name 

of the Father ; then in the name of the Son, and, 

in the name of the Holy Spirit, they were quite im- 

mersed under the water, when the words were pro- 

noimced : " N. N. I baptize thee in the name of the 

Father, and the Son, and the Holy Spirit." The two 

grown up individuals were ordered to undress themselves 

entirely, and sit on the ground. A bason full of water 

was then three times poured over them, with which 

they were ordered to wash themselves so that the water 

might be taken to every part of the body, the priest at 

the same time repeating with each of them the words 







THE ZELANES. 157 



of baptism: ''N. N. I baptize thee, &c." Tliey then 

presented to the priest a horn full of merom — the sacred 

oil — into which four cotton cords were dipped ; one of 

which the priest took out for each person baptized, with 

which he made the sign of the cross on theii- foreheads, 

and then tied it round their necks, pronouncing a bless- 

ing over each of them. They then sang again, and thus 

the service was finished. After this, all went into the 

Church, in order to see the communion administered to 

the newly baptized persons. I also entered the Church, 

to witness that rite ; but as it lasted too long, I could 

not persuade myself to stay to the close. 



October 30, 1839 — The man of Gondar, who was 

with us yesterday, called again to-day. We asked him 

about the Zelanes, a people mentioned in Mr. Gobat's 

Joiirnal, He said, that the Zelanes of Amhara were 

the same as those called in Shoa, " Abelam ; " and 

that both are wandering shepherds, and have the same 

religious ideas with other Abyssinians ; and that in 

Shoa, an Alaca is placed over them. He added, that 

they were a good people. The people, called Falashas, 

he said on Good Friday butcher a she-goat, which they 

hang up and lash, to put an affront upon the Messiah 

of the Christians. He also informed us, that there was 

another people called Figen, dwelling in the district of 

Baksa, in the province of Kuara, who have no religious 

communion, either with Christians or Mahomedans. 

Figen means "bad," and they are said to be mur- 

derers and sorcerers, and able by their enchantment 







158 CUSTOM OF VARIOUS 



to fix the elephant on a certain spot, so that he cannot 

move. They kill this beast, and sell its teeth to the 

people of Kuara and Agow. The Kamauntes, he said, 

dwell particularly in Dembea, Woggora, and Kerker. 

They have priests and receive baptism ; but are said to 

practise particular ceremonies in the forests. They 

have a great esteem for the cactus plant, from which 

they think that mankind had its origin. They call 

God, "the glory." "WTien any of them dies, they pre- 

pare a great Tescar. They will only eat the meat which 

has been slaughtered by the Abyssinians on Satui'day. 

I do not know whether the Abyssinians are prevented 

from eating with them ; but if they eat with a Falasha, 

they are excommunicated by the priests. The Woitos, 

another kind of people, are dwelling on the shores of 

the lake in Dembea, where they hunt after the hippo- 

potamus, the flesh of which they like as well as that of 

other beasts, which the Abyssinians detest. This people 

are like the Wato people among the Gallas, as I shall 

mention hereafter. 



I began to-day to study the Galla language with the 

assistance of my Galla servant. 



November 1, 1839 — Several priests and Debteras 

came to see us. One of them received the Acts and 

the Epistles of St. Paul. Arkadis, the teacher of our 

Guebra Georgis, complained of Guebra's leaving his 

school and being too much with us. I requested him 

to let the boy come to me when he had finished his 

lesson in school ; which he promised to do. 







GALL A TRIBES. 159 



November 2 — Guebra Georgis did not come to-day. 

I understand that having become too free in opposing 

the Abyssinian errors, his father, as well as his teacher, 

had endeavom'ed to draw him away from me, or at least 

to let him come very seldom for my instruction. In the 

afternoon I read in Genesis with sLx boys, who have 

come to me from different Churches. A Debtera hearing 

me speak about sin and death, represented the con- 

nexion of sin and death in these words : " Sin is the 

needle, and death the thread." 



November 3, Lord's Day — To-day I read with 

Guebra Georgis the first five chapters of Exodus ; and 

then read Chm-ch History \ii him, as far as the pro- 

pagation of the Gospel through Gregorius Illimiinator 

in Armenia, and through Trumcatus and Edesius in 

Abyssinia. 



November 4 — To-day I began to read the Epistle 

of St. James with Tseddoo, showing him the connexion 

there is between good works and real faith, which is 

preached so strongly by St. Paul. In the afternoon 

we heard that the Governor had made ready the provi- 

sions for Mr. Isenberg, and that Wulasma ]Iahomed 

had sent word to set out immediately. 







CHAPTER III. 







DEPARTURE OF MR. ISEXBERG FROM ANKOBAR — NOTICES RESPECTING 

SOME ANCIENT SAINTS — REVERENCE FOR THE SABBATH BY THE GAL- 

LAS— DISCUSSION WITH A DEBTERA ON ORIGINAL SIN — CONVERSA- 

TIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS — ABYSSINIAN REMEDY FOR THE SMALL- 

POX — SCRIPTURE INTERPRETATION — DISCUSSION ON THE THREE 

BIRTHS OF CHRIST — ATTACKED BY FEVER — THE FAST OF TSOMA 

LEDAT — COPIES OF THE AAIHARIC SCRIPTURES DISTRIBUTED — NOTICES 

OF THE GALLAS DWELLING IN THE EAST OF GURAGUE— VISITED BY 

PRIESTS FROM GURAGUE— BAPTISMAL CEREMONY. 







November %, 1839 — Mr. Isenberg departed to-day, 

and I accompanied him to Farri, on the ft-ontier of 

Shoa. 



November 12 — This morning I bid farewell to my 

Brother Isenberg, recommending him to our covenant 

God, on his long jom-ney. IVIy heart was deeply moved, 

and I could not but weep, knoAdng that I was alone in 

this country. The words of Christ, Lo, lam with you 

alway, even unto the end of the tcorld, strengthened 

me. 



November 13 — Tlie King retm*ned from his expedi- 

tion against the Gallas in jNIugher. M. Rochet, who 

had accompanied the King, gave me some particulars 

about this exnedition. They marched, he said, through 







KINDNESS OF THE KING. 161 



the tribes of Abedtshoo^ Gelan, Woberi, Betsho, Mugher, 

and Fajab ; that among the tribe Fajah, they found, on a 

mountain, twelve churches, and a number of Christians, 

who had been preserved a long time in the midst of 

barbarous heathens ; and that twenty Gallas had been 

killed on this expedition. 



November 14 — Alaca Sekima came to see me in 

the morning. He told me about some ancient saints, 

who had pulled out their eyes and cast them before 

'ultures, and who had rode on lions. I said, that if they 

did that, they were not saints, because a saint kept 

God's ^'ord, which connuands us not to mutilate our 

bodies ; and that a true saint humbled himself under 

the grace of God ; and employed his powers of body 

and soul in the service of his jVIaker and for the good 

of his fellow-creatures. 



In the afternoon, I went to see Alaca Wolda Hanna, 

who is sick. Afterward, the King's boy brought me a 

sheep and some bread, and asked whether I wanted 

an)i;hing else ; adding, that as my brother Isenberg had 

left, the King felt a tender care for me. 



November 15 — The boy came again and inquired 

after my wants. The blind Habta Mariam came, to 

whom I explained Rom. viii. and ix. 



November 16 — Studying the Galla language. In 

the Scripture lessons I read Col. ii. and iii., explain- 

ing to my people the duties of childi'cn, fathers and 

mothers, servants and masters. 



To-day Tseddoo spoke about Saturday, which they 







162 REVERENCE FOR THE SABBATH. 



celebrate something like the people of Godtsham. I said^ 

" The Word of God commands us to work six days, and 

to rest on the seventh ; but you say, that people should 

labom* five days, and rest from work two days. As 

regards the Day of rest, you do not strictly keep Satur- 

day or Sunday ;" proving my words by referring to their 

actions. I then told him how it was that in the pri- 

mitive Church both days were celebrated, and that the 

celebration of Saturday was abrogated afterward. 

Finally, I showed him the necessity of resting in God 

every day. He then said, that Christ was born on Sun- 

day, as it is written in the book of Sena Fetrat. On 

asking him for pi'oofs of the divine authority of this 

book, he was silent. My Galla servant told me, that 

his people paid great reverence to the Lord's Day ; that 

they did not work on that day, nor sleep with their 

wives ; and that they rose up early before day break, 

to pray to the AYake. They call the Sunday, Sanbata 

Gadda — Great Sabbath — in opposition to Sanbata 

Tena, which means. Little Sabbath. 



November 17, 1839 — I saw this afternoon a sad 

spectacle. Five hundi-ed slaves were brought to Anko- 

bar from Gurague. WTien will the time come that 

slavery, this disgrace of mankind, will be abolished in 

all Christian countries ! 



Noveviher 18 — A Debtera, whose name is Sentshar, 

had a long conversation with me. This man is in many 

respects a perfect rationalist. On account of his con- 

troversial spirit with the priests of Shoa, he was dis- 







CONVERSATION WITH A DEBTERA. 1G3 



missed by the King, but has since been restored, and 

made the Alaca of a cliiu'cli in the neiglibom'liood of 

Machfood. He began by saying, that childi-en are 

born free from sin, white Hke snow ; and that man dies 

in consequence of his oati sin. I remarked, first, that 

Adam om* first parent, was unclean before God ; and 

that he begat children in his own image. Secondly, that 

Moses declared that the thoughts and desu'es of man 

were sinful from a child. (Gen. vi. 5.) Thu'dly, that 

death is the wages of sin (Rom. -ii. 23.) ; and that con- 

sequently as childi-en die, they cannot be without sin : 

that is, without a sinful disposition, which they inherit 

from their parents, according to Psalm li. And 

Christ also says, that lohick is horn of the flesh is flesh. 

(John iii. 6.) Fourthly, that had not Christ been born 

of the Holy Ghost, He would have been unclean like 

ourselves, and disqualified to become om* Sa'ioui He 

endeavoured to invalidate this last argument, and then 

took refuge in mystical interpretations. He said, that 

God in the beginning had created heaven and earth ; 

and that heaven meant ' godly ,^ and earth ' fleshly : ' 

and that thus childi-en were born godly, but afterward 

became fleshly. I proved to him, that Moses spoke 

historically, and not mystically ; and then showed him 

the bad consequences of their mode of explaining the 

Bible. He then said, that wheat is fij-st good, after- 

ward becomes bad, and weed is seen in the field. I 

replied, that it cannot be otherwise, because the earth 

has been cursed on account of the sin of Adam ; so 







164 CONVERSATION WITH 



that now it is the uatiu'c of the earth to bring forth 

weed, and wall not produce good fruit unless it is 

cultivated. Thus the nature of man being corrupt, 

cannot but produce corruption, if not renewed by 

the Holy Spirit, according to John iii. He then in- 

sisted upon maintaining that man becomes sinful by 

outward seduction. I replied, that the seduction was 

first inward, as St. James clearly shows, (chap, i.) ; that 

from the heart proceed evil thoughts, murders, 8^'c. 

Matt. XV. Besides, if sin originated only in outward 

seduction, why did they not flee from it, seeing its 

bad consequences in Adam ; that they had virtue and 

strength enough to do so, if they were born without 

corruption, and hence needed not a Savioui' ; but that 

the whole was a contradiction to Scripture, which tells 

us, that we cannot even think anything good, and still 

less do any real good work, so long as we are unrenewed 

by the Holy Ghost. 



November 22, 1839 — Tseddoo came to day, to speak 

about the archangel Michael, who, he said, had con- 

ducted the Israelites through the Red Sea. I replied, 

You are in contradiction with the Word of God, 1 Cor. x. 

We then spoke about the power of the priests, but were 

interrupted by Ay to Engeda, who came to see me. 

While he was with us, we read a passage in the book 

" Amada Mistir," on which I made some remarks. This 

book states, that the angel Gabriel came to Shoa in 

the figure of an old man. I asked, whether this was 

written in the Bible ? He answered in the nes-ative. 







PRIEST TSEDDOO. 165 



"Well/' I replied, " why do you teach it, if you have no 

proof of it in God's Word ? " A5i:o Engeda said, that I 

had spoken the truth. In another part of this book it 

is stated that the humanity of Christ returned to His 

Deity. I said, that was an unscriptural confusion ; that 

the word became flesh, as St. John says; but that we 

could not say, that the flesh became God. We then 

spoke about saints, and that it was a sin to make them 

our mediators and Sanours. I said that if we had 

Christ, we had all with him, even the saints. The 

priest then said, " But all our books come from you, 

the people of Jerusalem." I repHed, I know that our 

fathers and those of the Oriental Church, have, in many 

things, gone astray from the truth; but that God 

knowing this before, had given His Word, and promised 

to guide us into all truth by His Spirit, that we might 

know His will and examine the doctrines of our fathers, 

on whom we were not to found our faith ; and that if 

we were to rely upon our fathers, the heathens w^ould 

say the same with respect to their religion. With re- 

gard to ourselves, the Christians of the West, I said, 

that we had, three hundred years ago, left the errors of 

our fathers and followed the pure Word of God, pro- 

testing against all human traditions and additions ; 

and therefore we were called Protestants. Tseddoo 

then said, "Well, allowing this, the principal thing is to 

keep God's word, and to impart our goods to every 

body, as Christ says. Give to him that asketh thee." 

I asked, Does God give His Spirit to wicked men, who 







166 CONVERSATION ON THE 



will not leave tlieir sins ? He answered, that He did 

not. " But does not God," I said, give His Holy Spirit 

to those who ask for it with a real desire ? " He re- 

plied in the affirmative. "Well," I said, thus we 

should also give to those who are in want of our assis- 

tance, supposing we have the means of doing so. If 

Christ says, Give to him that asketh thee, that 

means that we should be ready to assist our fellow- 

creatures wherever and as much as we can." Afterward 

I had Church History with Guebra Georgis and others. 

Then Alaca Tesfa came begging me for a copy of the 

Amharic Psalms, which I gave him. Two Debteras 

also came and asked, whether it was true that our 

Book of Psalms contained three hundred Psalms. 

I said, that it was not; that we were content 

AA-ith an hundi-ed and fifty Psalms ; and that we should 

keep these in our hearts and become a holy people 

like David was. I then spoke about their contents 

being useful in various situations of life, and found 

fault with the Abyssinian custom of reciting them 

so often. 



November 23, 1839— During my reading with 

several boys, Sentshar came again, bringing with him 

a book called " Meelad." He said, that Christ him- 

self had maintained in John ix. that neither the blind 

man nor his parents were culpable, and consequently 

a sinful corruption did not communicate itself to 

childi'en. I said, that this passage did not at all 

prove what he wished — that he should have a regard 







SINFUL CORRUPTION OF CHILDREN. 167 



to the question of Christ's disciples^ as well as Christ's 

answer — that if God inflicts great distress upon a man 

(like Job), people are ready to say, that he must have 

been a great sinner, else he would not have to undergo 

so many calamities — and that the disciples of Christ 

judging thus, asked their INIaster, whether the blind 

man before his birth committed a particular sin, or 

whether his parents had not sinned in such a manner, 

that their sin was punished in theii* son ; but that Jesus 

disowned both, saying, that the reason was that the 

works of God work might be manifested. Hence this 

passage, I said, does not speak about the connexion 

between the corruption of children and their parents ; 

but that the principal scope of it is to show, that great 

bodily calamities are sometimes inflicted upon persons 

for reasons unknown to human understanding ; and that 

we are not allowed to judge in such a case un- 

kindly, or according to our ideas about the moral cha- 

racter of our fellow-crcatm'es. Haing given Sentshar 

an explanation of this passage, I proceeded to streng- 

then my former proofs of the sinful corruption in which 

children are born. ATien speaking about the impu- 

tation of the sin of Adam, I remarked, that though we 

became sinners on account of Adam, yet that God in 

His love did not for Christ's sake impute sin to us : 

however, we are under the law of death. He then asked, 

why we must die, as we had not deserved it like Adam. 

I said, that we must die on account of our sinful nature; 

and that supposing this were not so, yet we had deserved 







168 ON CHRONOLOGY. 



nothing; tliat God liad created our souls to immor- 

tality ; and that Christ himself died, who had not de- 

served death. Thus God could let children die, though 

they had not deserved it. In short, children are born 

with a sinful natvu-e derived from Adam ; and that on 

account of their corrupt nature are childi-en of God's 

WTath and must che. That God does not impute this 

sinful state to them as their own ; but forgives it for 

Christ's sake, and declares this forgiveness in baptism, 

and which therefore is a strong proof of man's natural 

corruption ; and that the corrupt nature communicated 

by Adam and to us by our parents, is the real source of 

om' own sins and punishment. I then spoke about the 

necessity of a mediator, and the way of receiving him. 



Afterward, Sentshar endeavoured to prove their chro- 

nology from Luke i. 26., when the angel Gabriel was 

sent to Mary in the sixth month after he had been sent 

to Zacharias. A month, he said, was a thousand years, 

because David said, one day is as a thousand years before 

God. I replied, that if he reckoned in this allegorical 

way, he must count 30,000 years, because David did not 

say that a thousand years were like a month, but one 

day. Then I showed him how our chronology is got in 

a historical way. He then spoke about a book called 

Kufahe, in which is contained what God said to 

Moses on the mountain during forty days. I said, that 

all that was necessary for us to know respecting that 

holy discourse was wTitten in the Pentateuch. A strong 

proof, I said, that we should not know what God had 







REMEDY FOR THE SMALL-POX. 169 



not revealed was to be found in Rev. x. 4., where St. John 

was prevented from writing what the seven thunders 

had uttered ; and that it was only human curiosity that 

wished to disclose what God had concealed. Sentshar 

then spoke about St. Mary. 



November 26, 1839 — M. Rochet communicated to me 

his plan of going to Sentshero, and returning by way of 

Enarea. A Debtera then came, and said that blasphemy 

was no sin ; but I showed him the contrary from Matt. 

XV., and the example of Michael the Archangel in the 

Epistle of St. Jude. In the evening, M. Rochet brought 

me a number of potatoes, which he had obtained from 

the King, who received them from Mr. Isenberg at 

Adowah. I planted them, and they have gro^Mi up very 

well. 



November 28—1 read Rom. x. to the blind Debtera, 

and afterward went to see the Governor of the town. 

As the small-pox was said to exist in the north of Shoa, 

I asked Guebra what remedy was used in Abyssinia 

against it. He said, that they made an incision in the 

fore arm, and put therein the lymph from an infected 

person, covering it with wool. This operation stood the 

test, as Guebra himself had experienced. The scar 

was still to be seen on his arm. The vaccination of 

Europe is not yet known to the Abyssinians, they being 

content with the inoculation of the small-pox. How- 

ever, they do not think of inoculating, till the small- 

pox has broken out in their neighbourhood. When 

the disease exists at xnkobar, the King retires to the 



I 







170 SCRIPTURE INTERPRETATION. 



village of ]Iacliel Wans, where no one is admitted to his 

presence, as he is in great fear of being infected. Mer- 

chants and travellers are also prevented from entering 

Shoa. Thus we have an example of a cordon militaire 

in Abyssinia. 



November 29, 1839— Studying the Galla language. A 

Debtera asked me, vi-hether it would be sin if he took a 

second wife, his fii-st having died. I directed him to Rom. 

vii. 2. He was surprised at not having before seen my 

meaning in this passage. When we spoke about fast- 

ing, I remarked, that a new birth, and not fasting, was 

the condition of entering into the kingdom of Christ. 



November 30 — Debtera Habta Selassie came to see 

me. He spoke about the bush of Moses, which he ex- 

plained as being applicable to Mary, she having brought 

forth Christ without being consumed. This matter led 

me to remark on the necessity of interpreting the 

Scriptures in a historical and grammatical way. After- 

ward, our Workie began to dispute vehemently mth me, 

saying, that it was insolent to maintain that Mary had 

other childi-en besides Christ. I read Matt. i. 25 ; 

Mark iii. 32—35 ; John i. 3 ; Acts i. 14 ; 1 Cor. ix. 

5 ; and said, that from these passages we might con- 

clude that Mary had childi-en by Joseph. But as he 

bitterly opposed and declaimed against the Protestant 

Chm-ches, I du-ected the discom-se to practical remarks. 

He is a selfish and self-righteous man. I should not 

wish his sons, who are educated in Dr. Wilson's 

School at Bombay, to come here as long as he resides 







VISIT FROM xLACA SEKTMA. 171 



in this country, as he would become rather an obstacle 

to them. 



In the evening I read an account of the late Rev. T. 

Blumhardt. I related to my people several important 

facts, which pleased them much. I much wish that a 

short history of Missions were translated into Amharic 

or ^Ethiopic. 



December 1 — Workie endeavoured to attack the doc- 

trine of the English Church respecting the Lord's Sup- 

per, and spoke about the various sects of England, of 

w^hich he had heard dming his stay at Bombay. I 

made him feel and know, in a friendly manner, that he 

was unacquainted with our doctrines and his own heart. 

I endeavour to the utmost to remain on friendly terms 

wath this proud man, as I know how much harm he 

could do to my work in this country, if he let 

loose his bitter spirit against me. We brought him 

from Cairo to this countiy without entering into an en- 

gagement with him, being then of opinion that he 

would prove useful in maintaining our connexion 

with the sea-coast ; but time has shown that he seeks 

only his own interest. 



In the afternoon Alaca Sekima called upon me. 

He spoke about Samuel, a former saint of Abyssinia, 

who rode on lions. I reminded him of what 1 had 

formerly said against this folly. He then spoke of 

Eostatius, Tecla Haimanot, and Antonius, monks who 

had each instituted a particular religious order. The 

monk Samuel has also his followers in Abyssinia. 



I -2 







172 CONVERSATION 



Sentshar came again to dispute about the three births 

of Christ. He saicl^ that in Lukeii. 11., Christ, which 

name meant " anointed," was called so at His birth. 

Hence there were, first, His eternal birth ; secondly. His 

birth in the flesh; and thirdly, the unction of the Holy 

Ghost in the womb, which they call the third birth. I 

remarked, that they could not prove the third birth from 

the passage quoted, because the Son of God is called " the 

anointed" in Psalm ii. 2 ; and, secondly, the Prophet 

Daniel tells us his name, (chap. ix. 26.) ; consequently, 

according to their view, He must have been anointed at 

the time of the Old Testament, when the Word had 

not yet become flesh. In the same way He was called 

by the name of Jesus, (Matt, i.) before He had saved 

mankind. Christ is related to both natm'es. His being 

called " the anointed," relates only to His humanity , 

■vhich was anointed when He was about to perform the 

work of om- redemption. You must not separate the his- 

torical connexion of the Gospel. The baptism of Christ 

and His unction of the Holy Ghost, stand in connexion 

with the beginning of His work : Matt, iii andiv. ; Luke 

iii. and iv. Sentshar is an extravagant Monophysite ; for 

he said, that the godhead died and fasted in the huma- 

nity of Christ. He then spoke about the mu-acles of 

Tecla Haimanot, who had converted a very impious 

heathen. I related to him the history of the Missions 

on the Feejee and the Friendly Islands. 



December 4, 1839 — Tliis morning I was attacked with 

fever. A sick man in this country is in a pitiable con- 







ON "THE THREE BIRTHS/' 173 



dition, as the people immediately run together^ weep- 

ing, giving their foolish counsels, and speaking of devils 

and exorcism. 



December 5 — I was much better this morning. A 

dose of tartar emetic and quinine did me good yester- 

day. Sentshar came again to dispute -, but I turned 

the discourse to real conversion, according to John iii. 

The deadness of the Abyssinians casts me down very 

often. They hear wdth one ear, and let it pass through 

the other. I finished the first chapter of John in my 

Galla translation. 



December' 7 — To-day Tsoma Ledat commenced. This 

fast is in remembrance of Christ's incarnation. The 

monks only are obliged to keep it. I read to Habta 

Mariam Rom. xii and xiii. Sentshar asked for a 

Pentateuch, which I gave him. 



December 8 — Alaca Sekima came. He said that 

I should make him my confessor, or nafs-abat ; be- 

cause if I should die, nobody would absolve me. I 

said, that it was Christ to whom I daily confessed 

my sins, and I knew that He absolves me for the sake 

of His sufferings and death ; that if Christ shut me out 

of His kingdom, the confessor could not open it to mc ; 

and that if Christ has opened, nobody can shut. Tlicn 

Sekima spoke about the late Muallcm, an Armenian, 

who was considered the Abuna of Shoa; and who, 

when angry with his servants, had thrown away all the 

Zatsh (hydromel) which was in his house. I replied, 

that it did not become a Christian, and still less an 







174 READING CHURCH HISTORY. 



Abuua, to waste God's gifts. Afterward, several boys 

came, to whom I read a little tract which I had trans- 

lated, containing the essential doctrines of the 

Gospel. 



December 11, 1839— Guebra Georgis, who some days 

ago was attacked by fever, is getting better. I gave him 

the medicine which I had found useful myself. This 

morning a Governor of the WoUo Gallas came, begging 

me for medicine against epilepsy. He said, that he had 

tried the efficacy of anmlets written by Christians and 

jMahomedans, but that they were all of no use. After- 

ward, I finished wdth Guebra Georgis the second period 

of Church History, speaking about Pelagius, Augusti- 

nus, and Origen, the latter of whom is considered a 

heretic in Abyssinia. 



December 13 — We came in Chm-ch History to Ma- 

homed. I showed that Mahomed did not know the 

nature of sin, as well as God's justice and holiness ; 

and therefore he was not in want of a Sa^doiu- ; that 

the extravagances of Christians at his time contri- 

buted much to his rising ; and that the speedy propa- 

gation of his rehgion was produced by his sword and 

fleshly religious ideas. We then spoke about Diony- 

sius Areopagita, who is highly esteemed by the Abys- 

sinians. I showed that neither Kyi'ill, Athanasius, 

nor Chrysostom, knew his works ; consequently they 

could not have been wa-itten by the Dionysius men- 

tioned in Acts xdi. ; and that it was usual at that time 

for impostors to \Tite useless books, which they stamped 







MISSION TO THE GALLAS. 175 



with apostolical names to procure an access to their 

contemporai'ies on behalf of their lies. Guebra said, 

" I have understood this." I should like if a number of 

priests would study Chm'ch History. 



December 14 — This morning I reflected much 

upon going to the Gallas, being grieved at the indiffer- 

ence of the Abyssinian Christians, and encouraged 

myself to study the language of the Galla people. I 

also reflected upon the principles which I should adopt 

in my translation. I had hitherto used the Amharic 

characters ; but observing that the Galla language is no 

Semitic one, that Avriting in Amharic has many incon- 

veniences, and that perhaps the ^Vord of God may go 

forth from the Gallas to the whole of Abyssinia, I 

thought it better to use the Latin characters, employ- 

ing for the words not found in the Galla language the 

characters of the Abyssinian languages, on account of 

the national connexion of both countries. I know 

that in using foreign characters I shall be opposed by 

the Abyssinian priests, who wish nothing else but the 

J^thiopic to be circulated. May the Lord help me in 

this work to the glory of His Name ! 



December 15 — To-day I finished reading the Epis- 

tle of St. Paul to the Romans with the blind Debtera 

Habta Mai'iam. I briefly rcjieated the whole contents, 

particularly the doctrines of sin and grace, and exhorted 

this man to yield up his whole heart to Christ, who 

would give him spii'itual understanding and eternal life, 

if he received the doctrines of the Gospel into his 







176 DISTRIBUTION OF THE SCRIPTURES. 



heart. I then related to him the case of a poor bHnd 

woman in my country, who having heard this Epistle 

read, had retained it in her memory, and received into 

her heart, till her death, when she left this world in 

faith and triumph. 



Several priests came in the course of this day to beg 

for books. I distributed three copies of the New Tes- 

tament and a copy of the Pentateuch. They requested 

^Ethiopic copies, which I was unable to give them. 



December 18, 1839 — As the father of Guebra Georgis 

had directed me to read with Guebra the Gospel of St. 

jIark in ^thiopic, I complied with his w4sh ; but I also 

read it in Amharic. \lien I have finished with him 

Church History, I intend to introduce him to the 

biblical books, having already translated a treatise con- 

taining the following points : The many ways in which 

God has revealed Himself to mankind — that the prin- 

cipal subject of biblical history is the Kingdom of God — 

the way in which the Bible took its rise — the evidences 

that the Bible is the Word of God — how the Bible 

came to us — how it is to be read — and the names of 

the Books and their principal contents. 



In the afternoon a Debtera came and spoke much 

about evil spirits, budos, and amulets. I expressed my 

gi'ief at learning that the Debteras, called Christians, 

vised from ignorance and worldly interest to write amu- 

lets for the Gallas ; showed him the uselessness and 

sinfulness of such practices ; and exhorted him to 

the duty of the Debteras instinicting their own people. 







RECEIVE NEWS FROM TIGRE. 177 



as well as the Gallas, in scriptiu-al and other useful 

knowledge. 



December 19 — Read with Guebra in the Gospel ; 

afterward the Introduction to the Bible. Debtera 

Habta Selassie being with us, manifested delight in this 

study. The father of Guebra came, and spoke about 

the Tabiban before-mentioned; and said, that he with 

a friend once at night listened to their prayers, when 

they prayed to the Angel Phanuel that the Messiah 

might come veiy soon. 



December 20 — Guebra with other people seeing in my 

room a Ti'eatise, printed in German, called, " The book 

of the heart of a sinner,'^ with pictures, was much 

struck ; and wished to have it in Amharic, Anth the 

pictures. I finished Genesis with several boys who have 

come regularly for the last month. 



December 21 — To-day I received news from Tigre 

through a servant of Hadji Johannes at Adowah. I 

learned that Kidana iMariam, the former servant of Mr. 

Isenberg, had died at Jiddah, where he was mth Mr. 

Shimpei*, a German Botanist ; and that three Euro- 

peans had also arrived at Adowah, with several Catholic 

priests. 



Abder Rachman, the dragoman of Mr. Rochet, came 

to see me. He is a native of Argobba. He attempted 

to prove that the Argobbanians came from Sana, in 

Arabia ; and that the Gallas entered into Abyssinia by 

way of Mecca and Jiddah. I told him that the Gallas had 

nothing common with the Arabians, either in their 







178 THE ALACA OF MANS. 



language or religion ; besides which, the Abyssinian 

books stated that the Gallas came from the south 

of Abyssinia. As to the Argobbanians, I said, that 

he wished to derive the rise of his people from the 

holy land of the Mahomedans. He then said, that 

ar (or bar) means silk ; and gobba cloth, because 

the Argobbanians had formerly worn clothes of silk, 

when they came from Arabia. As for the rest, the 

language of Argobba is said to be nearly the same as 

that of Horror. 



Two priests of Gurague afterward called, and spoke 

to me about a petty Christian empire called Cambat, in 

the south of Gurague. They also told me, that the Gallas 

pay great respect to the serpent, keeping it in their 

houses, and feeding it with milk; and that some of 

the Gallas are of opinion that the serpent was the 

father of mankind. All that these priests said was 

confirmed by my Galla servant. 



December 25, 1839 — The Alaca of Mans, whose name 

is Wolda Haimanot, came to see me. He is the Alaca 

of thirty- eight churches, and one of the most respected 

priests of Shoa, and loved even by the King. He asked 

whether there were Mahomedans in my country ; and 

then said, '^We Abyssinians drink from the well 

of the Patriarch of Alexandria." I rephed, " In my 

country we di'ink from the Word of God, from 

Christ, who said, I am the way, the truth, and the 

life." I at first thought that he came to dispute ; but 

I found him a man of no bitter spirit. He begged 







GALL A TRIBE ARROOSI. 179 



me to teach him the names of the Amharic Alphabet, 

having heard that I knew them. I complied with his 

request. I also gave him a copy of the Epistles of St. 

Paul, which he thankfully received. 



December 26 — A priest of Gurague came to see 

me. I asked him about the Gallas dwelling in the 

east of Gurague. He said, that the most powerful 

tribe was that of the Arroosi Gallas, who fought quite 

naked in battle, in order to frighten their enemies ; 

that in their country much salt was obtained and ex- 

ported to Gurague and the Galla countries in the 

neighbourhood ; and that there was a great lake, called 

Laghi. He also told me of a priest, who died several 

years ago at Ankobar, who had travelled from Shoa to 

Tadjurra, from thence to Cairo, returning by way of 

Sennar to Gondar; and that afterward he went to 

Enarea, and returned by way of Caffa, Cambat, and 

Gurague, to Ankobar, where he died. 



In the lake of Gurague, called Suai, five islands exist, 

in which the treasm-es of the ancient Abyssinian Kings, 

are said to have been hidden from Gragne when he en- 

tered Abyssinia. That there are ^thiopic books is con- 

firmed by a man whom the King sent there as a spy. The 

houses of the Guragueans are described as being much 

better built than those of Shoa, which, by the Gm-agu- 

eans, are called stables. But their houses are widely 

separated from each other; and hence much occasion is 

given to kidnappers. The main reason of this sepa- 

rated state of the Gui-agueans is, I am told, the 







180 PRACTICE OF KIDNAPPING. 



enmity of the people one against the other^ and the 

total want of civil order. Children sleep by the side 

of their parents ; but^ notwithstanding this, kidnappers 

annually take a great number. These fellows break 

through the walls of the house at night, put a large 

stick upon the necks of the parents, and take away 

their children : if the children make an outcry, they 

])ut a rag into their mouths. In many houses, children 

sleep on beams placed across, in the upper part of the 

house ; but kidnappers penetrate also to that place. If 

the walls of the houses should be too strong, the 

robbers at night make a pit around the house, which they 

set on fire; when the inhabitants, going out, fall into this 

trench, and are seized, with their children. In general, the 

Guragueans are blamed as being a bad people ; as they 

have not civil authority, and are surrounded by Gallas 

and Mahomedans. The jurisdiction of Shoa is only and 

slowly extended to Aimellela, on the frontier of Gu- 

rague beyond the Hawash, If this country does not 

get soon a settled order, it will be desolated after a little 

time, because a great number of slaves are annually 

brought from thence. One brother sells the children of 

his brother ; and the people are stolen in going from 

one village to the other. 



December 27, 1839 — This morning ten priests from 

Gurague came to see me. They arrived here yesterday. 

I read with them in the Gospel, and exhorted them to 

become true followers of Christ, that they might be able 

to teach their poor people and the surrounding heathens. 







DESIRE FOR .ETHIOPIC SCRIPTURES. 181 



I distributed several copies of the New Testament 

among them. They told me about a country called 

Wolamo^ beyond Cambat, where there are Christians, 

but without priests at present. Beyond "VVolamo is a 

large Galla tribe, called Alaba. Mr. Ludolf has men- 

tioned the Alabas in his History. About Sentshero they 

could not tell me much. The way to Cambat conducts 

through the Adia Galla Tribes. In Gurague is a hea- 

thenish people, called Fuga. They are a wandering 

people, and eat all that the Guragueans abhor. 



December 28 — To-day my luggage arrived from Tad- 

jm-ra. The King wished to possess many of the things; 

and several priests having heard that my books had 

arrived, came to me, bringing ynii them iEthiopic 

books, which they wished to change for iEthiopic New 

Testaments. 



December 29 — Many people came to-day, begging 

for books and medicine. I sent a copy of the New 

Testament to the Governor of Gurague, whose name is 

Nef homus. To-day, the general Alaca of Shoa, whose 

name is Guebra, was dismissed as he had written a bad 

amulet against the King. I read in the Gospel with a 

number of boys. In an iEthiopic book, which a Deb- 

tera brought to mc in order to change it, was wi-itten, 

" Whoever shall sell this book, is cursed for ever." On 

this account people will not sell their books, but change 

them for others, or lend the book to make a copy. 



December 30 — A priest from the lake Haik, in the 

tribe of the Wollo Gallas, called upon me. He said, 







18.2 DEMAND FOR BOOKS. 



that there was a Church, called St. Stephanos, which 

was built 1300 years ago. I gave him a copy of the 

New Testament, and sent another for the Chui-ch. 

I spoke again with the King about my journey to 

Gm-ague ; but he would not allow me to go, saying, 

that if I should be killed, my countiymen would make 

him responsible. 



January 1, 1840 — A new year. May it be a year 

of gi-ace to my heart, as well as to the whole of Abys- 

sinia! "^Tiile I was reflecting upon the past year, 

pouring out my heart in confessing my sins, and thank- 

ing the Lord for all the spiritual and temporal gifts 

which He had bestowed upon me, the King's boy came, 

delivering to me 250 dollars which Ali Arab had 

brought. I again gave thanks to God, who knows the 

wants of His people. People are continually coming 

and asking for books. Would that I had a large 

quantity ! 



January 6 — To-day I went to the King, begging 

him to change the money which I had received, a great 

part of it not passing in this country. He comphed 

wdth my request. Other people of Gurague came 

asking for books. I spoke with them a good while 

about John iii. ; and then gave them what they had 

asked for. The Guragueans are great beggars. They 

fall down at my feet, begging only for a piece of 

salt. If they go to Shoa, they appear nearly naked, 

sapng, that the Gallas robbed them on the way; 

and then they get clothes from the King, which the 







ANNUAL FESTIVAL OF BAPTISM. 183 



Gallas will not rob, knowing that the King would be- 

come angry with them. 



January 10 — The King departed for Angollala. 

This morning, the Lebashi was with me, begging for 

medicine. The duty of this man is to go over the 

whole country, and to take all people who are sus- 

pected of robbery. He appears to be a man of energy. 

Wolda Haimot, the son of Alaca Serat, then came 

asking me about Mahomed and his religion. I said, 

that jMahomed could not have been sent by God, as he 

taught doctrines quite contrary to the Old and New 

Testaments ; and that if he is called a messenger, he is 

the messenger of the antichrist, yea, he is himself, 

because St. John said, that whosoever denies the Son, is 

the antichrist, and this is the messenger and servant of 

Satan. I then explained to him the principal doctrines of 

Mahomed and Christ, and encouraged him to read the 

Word of God, not only to get knowledge, but particu- 

larly to the salvation of his soul. 



In the evening the priests went out to prepare the 

ceremonies of the annual festival of baptism. I also 

went out to witness them. The Tabots (holy ark) of 

the five Chm-ches of Ankobar were placed on a free 

place of the town, called Arada, where the Governor 

.of the town received them, prostrating himself with 

the people. The priests were well clothed, as well as 

the other people, because they consider the day of bap- 

tism as a day of great shelemat (splendour). The 

Churches distribute white clothes, and the other people 







184 CEREMONY OF BAPTISM. 



borrow one from the other what they can get, to gUtter 

on this day. Then they went singing to the ri'ulet 

Airara, at the foot of the Tshaka mountain. Having 

arrived there, the priests of each Church pitched a 

tent, singing the whole night. I returned, but intended 

to go at night to see the holy ceremony. 



January 12, 1840 — After midnight I went to the 

rivulet Airara. The ceremony of baptism had not com- 

menced ; but after the first cro^ang of the cock it began. 

The priests of the Church St. Mary had to officiate this 

year. They had dammed the rivulet in the evening, so 

that in the morning it was considerably swollen. A 

priest stood in the midst of the water, and with a few 

words, blessed it. Then all the people, old and young, 

being quite naked, plunged themselves into the water. 

They tumbled first a good while in the water ; then they 

went out, and others followed them, being like men 

quite out of their senses. Parents took their little 

childi-en and cast them into the water, though these 

poor creatm'es cried loud from the coldness of the 

water. The priests having lights stood around the ri- 

^n.llet, to witness this abominable ceremony. I tm-ned 

my eyes from this spectacle, and entered into a discourse 

with the father of Guebra, speaking about the baptism 

with the Holy Ghost, and the blood of Christ to the 

forgiveness of sin. Several priests joined in the dis- 

coiu-se. I then expressed my grief at seeing such cere- 

monies in a Christian country. Many people told me 

that I had said right. I then went home, while the 







ABYSSINIAN BOOKS. 185 



priests remained till morning, when they returned to 

Ankobar, singing and shouting. 



January 13 — A priest came from Debra Libanos, 

begging in the name of his priesthood for the ^Ethiopic 

Gospels, as their Church was too poor to buy them. I 

complied ^-ith his request, and gave him also a copy of 

the Amharic New Testament. He went away, retiu-n- 

ing me many thanks. A Guraguean priest then came, 

begging for the names of the Amharic alphabet, so that 

he might teach it in his coimtry. Afterward, a Debtera 

brought to me a book, called Tarik. It contains a 

table of genealogy to King Solomon ; and then 

speaks about the Kings of ^Ethiopia, about the origin 

of the Gallas, and some facts respecting Mahomed 

Gragne, King of Adel. I begged him to make me a copy 

of this book, which he did. Aftein'ard, Tseddoo brought 

to me a book, called Genset. He said that it was 

composed by Athanasius. Tseddoo said, that this 

great father of the Church had maintained, that the 

dead went to the holy suj)per after death. I said, that 

this was not agreeable to 1 Cor. xi., where St. Paul 

says, that we should show forth Christ's death till he 

come ; nor to ]Iat. xxvi. 29., which referred to a hea- 

venly communion of Christ mth His disciples as there 

said, that he would have no further bodily commu- 

nion with them, but in the kingdom of heaven. Then 

I reminded him of Gal. i. 12., and Rev. xxii. 19., where 

it is inculcated on every Christian to take nothing from 

Scripture nor add thereto. 







186 GALLA DEITIES. 



January 15^ 1840 — A Debtera brought to me a book, 

called Wudassie-Amlak, which is so much esteemed 

by the Abyssinians, that they say, if there were no 

priest with a dying man, and this book only were read, 

his assistance would not be reqxiired. Afterward I 

studied the Galla language. My Galla told me about 

two Deities which the Gallas worship. One is called 

Oglia ; the other Atete. They offer sacrifices to the 

Atete, a female Deity, in the month of September ; and 

to the Oglia, a male Deity, in the months of January 

and April. 



January 16 — I called upon Anko Jasus, the Alaca 

of the Church of St. Mary. He appears to be a monk, 

I gave him a copy of the ^thiopic Gospels, and a copy 

of the Amharic New Testament for his Church. Thus 

all the Churches of Ankobar have received books from 

me. 



January 17 — Debtera Worknech begged me to 

explain to him Matt. iii. I spoke about the baptism of 

John, and that of the Abyssinians, which I had lately 

witnessed. First, I said, that John taught his people 

before he baptized them, and that he showed them the 

necessity of repentance, if they wished to enter into 

the kingdom of God ; and, secondly, that John directed 

his hearers to the great day, the judgment of Christ ; 

that they should not rely upon their own righteousness 

and useless ceremonies, but really change their minds, 

and be baptized with the Holy Ghost. 







CHAPTER IV. 



AIR. KRAPF ACCOMPANIES THE KING ON AN EXPEDITION AGAINST THE 

GALLA TRIBES — THE KING'S ARMY — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST 

ON FASTING AND OTHER SUBJECTS — RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES OF THE 

GALLAS — VISIT TO A VILLAGE — A GALLA GRAVE — NOTICES OP VARI- 

OUS GALLA TRIBES, (THROUGHOUT THE CHAPTER)— CONVERSATION 

WITH PEOPLE FROM THE NORTH OF SHOA AND OTHER PLACES 

— INTERVIEW WITH TSHARA, SON OF THE QUEEN OF MULOFALADA — 

FAVOURABLE RECEPTION — MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS OF MAITSHA — 

SOURCES OF THE HAWASH — RETURN TO ANGOLLALA — HOT WELLS 

IN THE TERRITORY OF FINIFINI — ARRIVE AT ANGOLLALA — RECEPTION 



OF THE KING REMARKS ON THE ADVANTAGES GAINED BY THE 



EXPEDITION. 



January 22, 1840 — This morning, about nine o'clock, 

the King departed from Angollala on an expedition 

against the Galla Tribes in the south of Shoa, and I 

was ordered to follow him in company with M. Rochet. 

About ten o'clock we passed the river Tshatsha, which 

has its course from south-east to north-west : it most 

probably arises in the mountains of Bulga and Mentshar, 

in the province of Fatagar. On a neighbouring hill 

we observed a large village, called Wonabadera, where 

Ayto Maretsh, the most influential Chieftain of the 

Gallas in the south of Shoa, has his residence. The 

Galla tribe, through the territoiy of which wc first 







188 THE king's army. 



passed, is called Abedtslioo, which is veiy large, and 

diided into several districts. It is well peopled and 

cultivated ; but being destitute of trees, it does not pre- 

sent to the eye so beautiful an aspect as the other terri- 

tories of the Gallas, which we saw afterward. It has 

no high mountains, but only hills. It is rich in rivulets, 

meadows, and large valleys. 



The army of the King which accompanied him to- 

day amounted to about 5000 men. The King went 

before, having on each side a man holding a large red 

umbrella, preceded by several Gallas to show him 

the way. Behind the King there were about twenty 

wives riding, to prepare the King's kitchen, and at 

a little distance were the priests, alacas, and other men 

of rank. I was ordered to go \-ith these. And 

finally there were the soldiers of the King, commanded 

by their respective officers. On the left side of the 

army, were the Tambom-s, riding on mules, making 

their monotonous noise; and, on the right side, 

were several wives, singing hymns in praise of the 

King. 



As my European di-ess and physiognomy excited the 

attention of the people, I was always surrounded by 

them, asking me about my country. I left this matter, 

and took the opportunity of speaking to them about 

the way conducting to their eternal welfare. As a Mis- 

sionary has people with him from all parts of Shoa, he 

can do much on such expeditions. Every word he 

speaks, they relate afterward to others, as I frequently 







CONVERSATION ON FASTING. 189 



observed. A priest, who was with Ayto Maretsh, asked 

me a number of questions. I at first considered him 

a bigoted monk, and spoke ^xiih. him in decided terms ; 

but I observed afterward that he was much attached to 

me. He at fii'st tm-ned the conversation to fasting. I 

said, " Fasting may be useful to you, as well as disad- 

vantageous, according to the use you make of it. If 

by fasting you wish to be justified before God, you are 

not in want of the merit of Jesus Christ, and of the 

gi-ace and mercy God has ofiiered us in Him ; you make 

youi- own Sadour, and blaspheme Him who accepts a 

mourning sinner by His grace ; and you declare all that 

Christ has done for us to be superfluous, or at least, 

not sufficient for our redemption. But in doing so, 

you are quite in opposition to the doctrine of Christ 

and His Apostles, who declare that there is no salva- 

tion but in the name of Christ, who justifies the 

sinner by faith, and not by merit which a man thinks 

to have got by fasting or other work. In this 

respect, fasting is an immense disadvantage to you ; 

yea, you commit a great sin if you fast for righteous- 

ness' sake. You have no command in Scripture for 

your doing so ; but you are commanded to put aside 

all youi- o\Ti works and to seize by a living faith what 

is given to you on the cross of your perfect Saviour Jesus 

Christ.'^ I then explained to him the passage (Matt. 

V. 3.) Blessed are the poor in spirit : for theirs is the 

kingdom of heaven. Furthermore, I said, "Fasting 

respects only the flesh, not the soul. The Mahome- 







190 CONVERSATION ON FASTING 



dans and heathens can fast as severely as you, without 

partaking of Christ. It is another thing, if we fast 

in order to be able to meditate about the condition of 

our hearts, to mourn over our sins, and to pray. In this 

respect, fasting may become useful to us ; but in doing 

so we know and declare it before God and men, that 

we do not seek righteousness thereby, but only a pre- 

paration for a praying intercourse with our God. Having 

this in view, the Apostles sometimes fasted ; but they 

left it to Christian liberty as to how often and in 

in what cases it should be done, without giving strict 

orders about it." 



Afterward he spoke about the prohibition of coffee 

drinking. The priests of Shoa do not allow it, in oppo- 

sition to the Mahomedans, who like coffee so much. 

First, I proved to him, that God makes coffee grow as 

Avell as other things for the use of men ; and therefore 

he who forbids it, is in opposition to the Creator of 

all things. Secondly, I showed him that all that God 

has created, is clean, good, and not to be refused, if it 

be received with thanksgiving, as St. Paul says, (1 Tim. 

iv. 3, 4.) ; and that it was another thing if some things 

were not suitable to our bodies and health. In this 

respect, we were obliged to abstain from eating or drink- 

ing it, as it is our duty to preserve our life, which we 

should otherwise destroy, as many Abyssinians do by 

severe fasting. Thirdly, I explained to him the differ- 

ence by which we are distinguished from the Mahome- 

dans, namely, not by fasting, or coffee di-inking, or 







AND OTHER SUBJECTS. 191 



di'ess, or bands of silk ; but by oiu* doctrines and a holy 

Christian life. Fourthly, that if the Abyssinians will 

separate themselves from Mahomedans by prohibiting 

coffee, they are obliged to abstain from all other meat 

which the Mahomedans make use of. Fifthly, I re- 

proached their priests, saying, " I know why you are so 

strict in forbidding coffee ; you do it for your interest, 

taking a cloth, or some pieces of salt, before you ab- 

solve a dead man whom you know to have been a coffee 

drinker. I would not have opposed you so much, if I 

had observed that there was no custom in general to 

di'ink coffee ; but knowing the reasons why you forbid 

it, I thought it my duty to speak openly on this point. 

But supposing there were no custom, your country could 

produce plenty of coffee, and it would be for yom- tempo- 

ral welfare to plant and sell it to foreign countries.^^ 



I then spoke about the real conversion of sinners, 

about the happiness of a true believer in Christ, and the 

duty of the Shoa Christians to convert the JIahomcdans 

and Gallas, saying, that if they loved Christ, they would 

keep His commandment, by which all true believers are 

obligated to instruct all the nations of the earth. But 

in order to be able to do so, they must first themselves 

retm-n to the pure doctrines of the Gospel, else the 

Gallas would not hear them. " What," I said, " shall the 

Gallas gain by your doctrines about fasting, prohibition 

of coffee and smoking, by your traditions of circumcision, 

and by yom' strict separation from other nations ? In- 

stead of converting them, you give them occasion to 







192 GALLA SACRIFICES. 



blaspheme the holy name of Christ, thinking that His 

yoke is a very heavy one, in opposition to what He him- 

self says (Matt. xi. 28.) Come unto me, all ye that la- 

hour and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest, 8(c." 

In my heart I fervently prayed that the Lord would 

open a door to the Galla nation, and hasten the time of 

their salvation. 



About one o'clock we passed a river, called Belat, 

which has its coiu'se in the same direction as the 

Tshatsha, and perhaps the same source, on the Bulga 

mountains. There is a large village of the same name 

near it, situated on a rocky hill. Oiu* route was plain 

and agreeable. "VVe observed several large ahorn-trees, 

under which the Gallas perform their religious ceremo- 

nies. These trees therefore are considered holy, and 

nobody can touch them without losing his life. Here 

they offer sacrifices to their two principal Deities, Oglia 

and Atete. To the Oglia, which is a male Deity, they 

offer cows, sheep, &c., in the months of January and 

April ; and to the other, which is a female Deity, they 

offer sacrifices in the month of September, at which 

time their priests, called Kallitshotsh, foretell the inci- 

dents of the coming year. They pray that these beings, 

which they think to be invisible, may grant to the peo- 

ple a good harvest and other temporal blessings. 



About two o'clock in the afternoon we encamped on 

a large plain, called Magel, which is intersected by 

a rivulet of the same name. The King gave orders 

to Serta "Wold to furnish me with a tent. 







VISIT TO A GALLA VILLAGE. 193 



January 23,1840 — Yeiy early this morning I went 

out to a neighbouring village of Gallas, accompanied by 

M. Rochet and my Galla boy. The Gallas on seeing us, 

ran all together. I saluted them in their own language. 

I then said to them, through my Galla, that I had heard 

in my country that the Gallas were like what the fore- 

fathers of my country had been formerly, not knowing 

the right way to their temporal and eternal welfare ; 

that the Wake (God) had shown us the right way in a 

book which we call the Gospel ; and that His will was, 

that all men should hear, know, and accept this book, 

in order to become happy with Him after this life. As 

to myself, I intended to study well their language, and 

then to come and teach their boys and all who wished 

to know the right way. Several people said, " Well, 

come, and we will give you sheep and what yovi need." 

I replied, " I am not in want of property ; but I wish 

to make you happy by the knowledge of the Word of 

God." I Hke much the Galla people, and 1 am con- 

vinced that if a ]Iissionaiy once commenced his labours 

among them, he would be blessed with better success 

than among the Abyssinian people. 



The King set out about eight o'clock with his troops, 

which had been considerably increased by soldiers 

coming from Bulga and Alentshar. We marched south- 

west-west in the territorj^ of the Abedtshoo Gallas. 

About eleven o'clock, we passed the river Sana Robi, 

which separates the tribe Abedtshoo from the tribe 

Gelan ; and then marched north-west, passing, about one 



K 







194j governor of machfood. 



o'clock in the afternooiij the river Sanga Boka. About 

two o'clock, we encamped on a place, called Gordoma, 

in the tribe Woberi. As the tribes Woberi and Gelan 

were several years at war with each other, the country 

around was a desert, and we saw nothing but the ruins 

of former villages. ^Tien we had encamped, the 

King asked me how many soldiers I thought he had 

gathered at present ? I said, that I thought there 

were about six or seven thousand. He laughed, and 

said, " That is nothing : look after several days, and 

then tell me the number." We had to the north the 

province of Slioa Meda, where there are Christians. 



In the evening, the Governor of Machfood came to 

see me in my tent. As they came only to see my Euro- 

pean dress, and to ask about trilling things, I turned the 

discourse to the Word of God, to proclaim which I 

was sent by the Christians of my country. They then 

kept silence, in order to hear what 1 had to say about 

the propagation of the Gospel in our times, and of the 

Holy Scriptures in a hundred and seventy different lan- 

guages, and about the arts of our country. I like to 

converse with different people on this expedition, and 

to make known my object in all the districts of Shoa, 

as I obtain thereby a great advantage ; namely, that I 

am known if I should afterward visit their villages. 

I regretted that I had not with me a large quantity of 

Amharic books, as I had many opportunities of dis- 

tributing them. 



January 24, 1840 — As the King set out very late this 







MOUNTAINS OF GARRA GORPIIOA. 195 



morning, I had a long conversation with people who 

smTOunded my tent, in number about two hundred. 

My heart was warm at seeing them. Several were about 

to speak about fasting ; but I left that, and enlarged on 

the duty of a Christian to acquaint himself well with 

the "Word of God, contained in the Old and New Testa- 

ments, and to follow it with all his heart during his 

life. I then proved to them from the Ten Command- 

ments the sinfulness of theii- hearts, and the necessity 

of a h-ing faith in Jesus Christ. The people were 

much pleased with what I said, saying, that they had 

never heard such good tidings from their priests. If 

I should accompany the King on another expedition, 

I shall prepare before a number of short sermons, 

explaining to tlie people the essential truths of Scrip- 

ture in a clear and decided manner. These expeditions, 

which the King makes three times in the year, namely, 

January, June, and September, afford a suitable occa- 

sion for a ^Missionary to preach the Gospel, which 

opportunity he does not have at other times. 



We marched through the territory Woberi south- 

west-west. On the south-east we left the mountains of 

Garra Gorphoa, which extend from east to north-west, 

in which direction we saw all the rivulets running, 

which we were continually passing. As since yesterday 

the troops from northern and western Shoa arrived, 

the King sent his boy Bern, to request me to go on a 

hill from whence I could see the troops passing, and 

to tell the King how many I thought there were. 1 

K 2 







196 A GALLA GRAVE. 



rested about an hour, seeing the people arriving from 

all directions ; finally, I went my way, thinking there 

were about iifteen thousand men. Notwithstanding 

this, others will arrive in a few days from Shoa, and 

the country of the Gallas. The most beautiful horses 

and mules were to be seen. How powerful a King 

Sahela Selassieh might become, if his troops were dis- 

ciplined, and his country civilized ! About one o'clock, 

we were covered by an immense swarm of locusts, so 

that we could see neither the sun nor the mountains 

around. I have seen them in Tigre, but not in such 

a mass. Afterward we had rain. The second rainy 

season, which is called Tshernat, is at hand, and is ex- 

pected regularly between January and February. The 

first rainy season, called Hat Kidan, begins in the 

month of June, and ends in September. 



I saw this afternoon, for the first time, a Galla grave 

in a village called Mutshella. The grave was sm*- 

rounded by a wall about three feet in height, on which 

the aloe-plant was growing up very beautifully. The 

grave was also covered with stones of about two feet in 

height. I have never seen in Abyssinia a grave adorned 

so nicely. On asking my Galla boy, why they adorned 

their graves so beautifully, I received an answer which 

destroyed my pleasure. He told me, that the Gallas 

are of opinion, that as soon as the above mentioned 

plant grows on the grave of a person, he begins to get 

righteousness before the Wake, and goes to him. How- 

ever, the Gallas have an idea of retribution, as they 







PLAIN OF SULULTA. 197 



believe that a good man goes to the Wake, and a bad 

one to the fire of the Setanat, or Geni. As I asked 

Gallas, who have no connexion with the people of 

Shoa, I suppose that this is an idea of theii- own. 



January 25, 1840 — We commenced our march this 

morning about nine o'clock, proceeding south-south- 

west, through the territory of the tribe Jumbitshoo, 

which was quite destitute of villages. We passed several 

rivTilets. The King rested several times to catch fishes. 

About two o'clock, we encamped in a plain called 

Sululta, having been about eight hours in its circuit. 

The Gallas on the neighbouring mountains are called 

Sululta Gallas. Their neighbours in the south-east 

are called Finfini Gallas, from the high mountains of 

the same denomination. The plain of Sululta is ex- 

ceedingly rich in grass and water ; but there is no 

wood. I observed here, as in other places, that the 

Gallas leave the plains to their horses, sheep, cows, 

&c., which they love like their children ; while they 

themselves seek their maintenance by cultivating the 

mountains. In doing so they are able to bring up a 

better cavalry than perhaps any other nation. As the 

Gallas of Sululta did not pay their tribute in horses 

and cows, the King gave orders for all their villages 

to be destroyed by fire. I did not care much to know 

the names of the Galla villages, as they are destroyed 

almost on every expedition. The soldiers take all 

they can get in the houses, and then burn them. As 

the harvest was over, the King could not, as he gene- 







198 QUEEN OF MULOFALADA. 



rally does, burn the fruits ; but much wheat was de- 

stroyed with the houses. The Gallas are foohshj I 

have no doubt, because they could prevent the King 

from burning their houses, as the tribute which he 

requires from them is very little, 



January 26,1840— This morning, about eight o'clock, 

we left Sululta. On our departure the King bm-nt all 

the meadows on which we had encamped. About nine 

o'clock we entered into the territory of Mulofalada, 

governed by the queen Tshamieh, whom I have men- 

tioned before. She has her residence at Wollenso, a 

large village, which is considered the capital place of 

her tribe. Having passed through several territories 

of the Gallas quite destitute of trees, and but little 

cultivated, it was very refreshing to my eyes to see 

large forests and the ground cultivated. The King of 

Shoa married the daughter of the queen ; and her son, 

whose name is Tshara, is much attached to the King, 

and rendered him great services on the expedition. 

Considering that this tribe is in the midst of Gallas 

dwelling between the Hawash in the south, and 

Shoa in the north and east — that it is near the Nile, and 

Godtsham on the west— that it is very fertile, and 

well cultivated— and that it is in total dependance upon 

the King of Shoa, I could not but think that it was a 

fit place to establish a Galla Mission among this tribe. 

I therefore determined to make my personal acquaint- 

ance with the son of the Queen, and to acquaint 

him with my object. On our way, the King received 







BEHAVIOUR OF THE KING. 199 



several Chieftains, who delivered up their tributes. 

Generally speaking, what the Gallas call dependancy 

upon Shoa is very little with the southern Gallas, as 

they are afraid of the King only so long as he is in 

their territory. The tribe of Mulofalada, however, 

seems to me to be an exception. 



I must make some remarks respecting the behaviour 

of the King when he is marching. He is as active in 

the field as at home. Sitting on his mule, he speaks 

with his officers and other persons, and receives the 

Governors arriving from Shoa or the Galla tribes, who, 

on seeing the King, fall down on their faces, as well as 

their troops. He asks in a friendly way. How do you 

do ? after which the chieftain comes near, walks by 

the side of the King's mule, and speaks with him 

apart for about half an hour. The King having rode 

on his mule for a considerable time, descends and walks 

on foot like his people. He speaks the Galla language 

pretty well. When he intends to encamp, he goes 

apart on a hill with a select number of troops to 

reconnoitre, till his tents are put up. Indeed, he is a 

respectable prince, and has intelligence and experience. 



In the afternoon, we passed several rivulets in the 

territoiy of Mulofalada. One of them is called 

Koieta, and another Dekame : both seem to have their 

course to the Nile. All the rivulets which we passed, 

have water the whole year, I was informed. At two 

o'clock, we arrived in the ten-itory of the tribe Ada- 

berga, which is partially dependent on Mulofalada. 







200 CONVERSATION WITH PEOPLE. 



Adaberga has its name from the high mountains 

situated in this tribe^ as many other tribes are called 

by the name of their mountains. I several times ob- 

served, that the extension of a tribe is limited by a 

chain of mountains ; as you enter into another tribe 

as soon as you ascend another chain of mountains. 

The Adaberga mountains have their direction from 

south-south-east to north -east. The territory of this 

tribe is very rich in forests, water, and meadows. As 

they refused to pay the tribute, their houses were 

burnt. About three o'clock we encamped in a valley, 

called Belatsha, from the rivulet" of the same name. 



January 27, 1840 — This morning I had a long con- 

versation with people from the North of Shoa, from 

Geshe, Anzokia, and Efrata. I read to them several 

Psalms with short explanations. They were much pleased 

to hear the Word of God in Amharic. I am firmly 

convinced that the Abyssinian people would not refuse 

a reformation, if there were some enlightened teachers 

among themselves, brought up with a sovmd know- 

ledge of the Bible, and anointed by the Holy Spirit. 

But I have little hope in this respect, though they like 

to hear a discourse about the Word of God. In all my 

conversations I endeavour to show them the necessity 

of relying only on the Bible, it being quite suffi- 

cient to the knowledge of our salvation. I show them 

always that there are two seducing ways ; either that 

we add something to the Scriptures, or that we take 

away from them ; explaining the danger of these ways. 







CLIMATE OF METTA. 201 



with the example of Adam and Eve and other instances, 

as well as from the history of the Chm-cli. 



We commenced our march about nine o'clock this 

morning. Having passed through a large forest, 

north-west, we descended into a large plain, called Ada- 

berga Tshamer, in which the Gallas themselves had 

bm-nt all the grass to prevent the King from encamp- 

ing there. A Galla was caught in the forest : three 

others were killed this day by the people of Tshara. 

All the villages around were destroyed by fire. My 

boy brought to me a lance of iron, which the Gallas of 

this country used to wear. About three o'clock, we en- 

camped near a river called Robi, having its course to 

the Nile. We were in the territory of the Metta 

Gallas. Metta is divided into several districts. From 

the river Robi, the Gallas around are called jNIetta Robi 

Gallas. They did not deliver up their tribute, and had 

taken flight to their moimtains. The territory of ]Ietta 

is exceedingly beautiful, like Mulofalada and Adabcrga. 

Generally speaking, the farther we go to the south, the 

country becomes more beautiful. It is an immense loss 

that this fine country is in the hands of these people. 

They have every thing in abundance, and their climate 

is like that of Italy. It is so healthy that sickness is 

unknown. 



January 28 — This morning I had a conversation 

with the Gallas. As on this expedition I wished par- 

ticularly to converse with the people, I took my Galla 

translation of the Gospel of St. John, in order to see 

K 5 







202 CONVERSATION ON 



whether tliey were able to understand it or not ; and I 

had the pleasure to observe that they understood it 

pretty well. I added some explanations to what I read, 

and they expressed to me their great satisfaction. I am 

convinced that the Gallas are not against instruction ; 

but they hate the Amharic priests, who will instruct 

them in an unknown language, and in things which they 

consider a heavy yoke. We always observed that the 

Gallas made a great distinction between me and M. 

Rochet and the Amharic people. 



The King encamped about one o^clock in a plain 

called Darasoo, on the river Gadisa; afterward he 

went out with a select number of soldiers in a north - 

westei'ly direction, to attack the tribe Wogidi INIetta. 

I accompanied him, though he begged me several times 

to remain in the camp. We marched about two hours, 

till we arrived at a high mountain, on which, when the 

air is clear, Godtsham and the Nile can be seen. We 

saw the mountains of Mughir to the north, on the 

foot of which is the tribe Fajah, where the King went 

on his last expedition, in the month of September. 

Between the mountains of the Yogidi Gallas and those 

of the ]Metta Robi Gallas is a river, called Ada, flomng 

to the Hawash. In the west of Wogidi Metta is the 

tribe Betsho Fugik, and in the west of Betsho Fugik 

is the tribe Tsharso Daga on the Nile. As the Gallas 

had taken flight, the King returned to his camp, hav- 

ing first burnt their illages. 



January 29, 1840 — This morning, about nine o'clock, 







THE POWER OF THE PRIESTS. 203 



we left oiu' camp, to retui'u to tlie tribe ^Metta Robi, 

where we had been two days before. I asked several 

Gallas who were with me in my tent, what they knew 

about their progenitor. They said, that, according to an 

old tradition, their progenitor was called "VVolab ; that 

he was formed from mud by the Wake (god), and re- 

ceived afterward a living soul ; and that he had his 

first residence on the Hawash. I could not learn more 

from them. On oiu- rctiu-n, the Gallas, the houses of 

whom were bm-nt yesterday, brought their tribute in 

honey, horses, and cows. 



We encamped about one o'clock. I had a long con- 

versation -^ith people from jNlachfood, Geshe, Morad, 

Bulga, and ]Ientshar. I observed that the people of 

Bulga and Mentshar are the most ignorant. 



January 30 — As the King rested in his tent till 

ten o'clock, I had much time to speak ^dth the people. 

I first spoke about the power of the priests. I proved 

to them that a priest is a sinner before God, like other 

men ; and that a good priest does not deny his sinful- 

ness and his want of a Saviour, as we see in the exam- 

ple of St. Paul, who declared himself to be the greatest 

sinner — that therefore a priest has no power of his 

own over other men — that as he receives the salvation 

of his soul only by true repentance and living faith in 

Christ, it is his duty to show to his people the way in 

which he has been saved, in conformity with the exam- 

ple of John the Baptist, and with God's commandment. 

" Therefore," I remarked, " take care that you do not 







204 CONVERSATION 



presume on authority which the Lord has not given you 

—that you preach His word and not youi- own — seek 

for His honour and glory, and not yom- own interest. 

You have certainly great honour and power by teaching 

His word ; but if you take from or add to that word, 

as now you do, the Lord will call you thieves and rob- 

bers destrojang his sheep. The iVpostles had the Holy 

Spirit, who conducted them into all truth, and preserved 

them from teaching other things which Christ had not 

commanded. In His power they bound the sinner who 

did not repent, as well as absolved him who truly re- 

pented of his sins : but you have the spirit of the world, 

and seek only for worldly interests, and take the power 

and the word of Christ only as the means of obtaining 

your temporal objects. You keep the flock in ignorance, 

teaching them doctrines quite contrary to the Scrip- 

tures ; and you prevent them by your pretended autho- 

rity from receiving the happy and pure knowledge of 

the Bible. But I tell you that the liord wall require 

from you, on the Day of Judgment, all the souls which 

are lost on youi- account. The souls are not yours, but 

Christ's ; and if you do not reveal to them His will, 

you are like Judas, who looked more for money than 

for his master's interest." 



We then spoke about slavery. As slavery is very 

frequent in this country, I take every opportvmity to 

prove its inconsistency with Christian principles, namely. 

Thou shalt love thy neighbour as thyself. And as ye 

would that men should do to you, do ye also to them 







ON SLAVERY. 205 



likewise, " A^Tiy do you/' I said, " sell yoiu- neighbour 

like a mule, or horse, or other property ? Would you 

like a man to deal so with you ? Furthermore, you know 

from Scriptm-e, that all men are brothers, members of 

one family, coming of one blood, Adam, and redeemed 

by one blood, Jesus Christ. It is also said, Thou shalt 

not covet thy neighbour's house, thou shalt not covet 

thy neighbours zvife, nor his man servant, nor his maid 

servant, nor his ox, nor his ass, nor any thing that is 

thy neighbour's. How earnestly the Almighty forbids 

us in this commandment to take the property of our 

neighbour. ATiy do you steal men, or at least buy 

and sell stolen men ? You say that you do not steal 

men. Well, but you buy and give occasion for others 

to steal them. What is the reason of so many wars 

among the Gallas ? Is it not to make and sell slaves ? 

You, the Christians of Shoa, are responsible for this. 

You do not eat with Gallas and Mahomedans ; but you 

do their sinful works. Separate yourselves from their 

sins, and prove that you are disciples of Him who has 

given himself for their redemption. You forbid coffee 

and tobacco, which the Word of God does not ; but you 

favour a trade with men to your eternal condemnation." 

Our conversation then turned to the difference be- 

tween Christians and Mahomedans. I said, " The dif- 

ference does not consist in strings of silk, or in not 

eating with ^lahomedans ; but in doctrines, and in a 

holy Christian life. Like the ]Iahomedans, you seek 

your righteousness before God by fasting and other 







206 CONVERSATION CONCERNING 



works ; like them you are slave-traders ; and yovi love 

fornication. Wlierein^ therefore, do you differ ? Is it 

because you have a greater number of Saints than the 

Mahomedans ? Or is it that you have better stories 

and fables than are found among the Mahomedans ? 

You have, it is true, some theoretical knowledge of 

Christ j but practically, you are like the Mahomedans, 

who not feeling the sinfulness of their hearts, nor know- 

ing the sickness of their souls, are offended at the Sa- 

viour's incarnation. And you are offended at our say- 

ing to you, that fasting and other works are useless to 

a true believer, who needs nothing else but a contrite 

heart and a living faith. You are zealous against Ma- 

homedans, denying that Christ is the Sou of God, and 

do not give Him the honour which belongs to Him as 

a Saviour and Mediator, but divide Him between His 

work and youi' own and that of your Saints.'' 



Finally, we spoke about the various arts of Europe. 

I said, in conformity with 1 Tim. iv. 8, Godliness is 

profitable unto all tilings, having promise of the life 

that noiv is, and of that ivhich is to come — that the 

pure knowledge of the Gospel enlightens the under- 

standing of man, and who, if he does the wdll of God, is 

blessed in all that he undertakes — that the reception 

of the Gospel is the real cause of the flom-ishing state 

of the arts in our country — and that the love which 

oui' Christians prove in propagating God's Word is the 

cause of the power which England possesses in all parts 

of the world. 







THE ANOINTING OF CHRIST. 207 



We set out about ten o'clock this morning. Alaca 

Melat asked nie on the way many questions of a spe- 

culative natui-e. Among other things, he asked me 

about the anointing of Christ by the Holy Ghost. I 

said, this we can prove clearly from Matt, iii., where we 

read, that when Jesus was baptized, he went up straight- 

way out oftheivater: and, lo, the heavens were opened 

unto him, and the Spirit of God descending like a 

dove, and lighting upon Mm, from which we also learn 

at what time Christ received the Holy Ghost. " "SATiy 

ask,'' I said, " about things which are not wi-itten, and 

do not see those which are so clearly revealed in the 

Scriptm-es ? Why take upon yourselves to oppose the 

testimony of St. John, who had seen and heard at what 

time Christ was anointed with the Holy Ghost ? " I 

once heard fi'om a learned priest why they persist so 

strictly in their opinion of Christ's being anointed in 

the womb ; but I have forgotten to notice it in my 

daily remarks. It is necessary to study their iEthiopic 

books in order to find out their o])inions, of which 

they have seldom a clear knowledge. 



He then asked about Cyril and Nestorius. I said, 

that the doctrines of these two gi'cat men of the 

Church requii-ed to be examined by the light of the 

Scripture — that Nestorius seems to have separated the 

humanity of Christ from his Deity, and Cyril to have 

confounded both together; while the Scripture faith 

relics on a real union of both without separation, as 

well as without mLxture — that as to the manner of 







208 INTERVIEW 



their union, we are not informed in Scripture ; we 

know only that the Word zvas made Jlesli, mid dwelt 

among us, manifesting the actions of real humanity 

as well as of Deity. It would be better, I said, if they 

left their disputes about the anointing and the two 

natures of Christ, and examined themselves in the 

light of God, to know whether they were anointed 

with the Holy Ghost and united to Christ or not. " I 

am much displeased,^' I added, " with your learned 

men, seeing that they are lost in vain speculations, 

and seduced from the practical knowledge of Christ. 

Humble yourselves under the Word of God, that He 

may exalt you, by giving you the spirit of true wisdom, 

and leading you to the salvation of yourselves as well 

as of your flocks." 



Finally, he asked, whether mules were created in the 

beginning, as it was written in a book called Adam, 

that Adam, on leaving the garden, had ten mules with 

him. I said, that I had never i-ead this story in the 

Bible ; but had read in Gen. xxxvi. 24., that at the 

time of Anah, mules were found in the wilderness ; 

and therefore that the story in the book of xldam was 

false, as were many others of their books, the authors 

of whom seek to be wiser than the messengers of God, 

who have wi'itten their histories in the light of the 

Holy Ghost. This afternoon we were again covered 

with an immense swarm of locusts. 



January 31, 184!0 — This morning I had the pleasure 

to meet with Tshara, son of Tshamieh, Queen of Mulo- 







WITH TSIIARA. 209 



falada. He came to see me in my tent. I explained 

to him the reasons why I had come to Shoa and the 

country of the Gallas, saying, that in om- countries we 

had become very happy since our fathers had, more 

than a thousand years ago, received the knowledge of 

the books which I had in my hands —a copy of the 

Amharic New Testament and the Psalms — and that as 

we loved all men on earth as our brothers, we wished 

to make them also happy by the knowledge of this book. 

Besides, God had commanded us to instruct all people 

in this book, as without the knowledge of God and their 

duties toward Him, they would be lost for ever ; and 

therefore I had come from a distant country, surmount- 

ing many difficulties, fatigues, and dangers, in order to 

show them the way to their eternal welfare. Tshara 

took my books, kissed them, and gave them to his ser- 

vants, who also kissed them. He then said, " We will 

know about the things contained in this book." I 

replied, that I would have given it to him, if he had 

been able to read it ; but if he and his mother would 

allow me, I would come and instruct his people in their 

own language, and tell them all that is ^Titten in the 

book. I added, that I had nothing to request from 

him but his permission to come, and for the protection 

of my person and furtherance of my object in this coun- 

ti-y. He promised to accomplish all that I had re- 

quested from him ; but, he added, " If the King, my 

uncle, will allow it." This young man's countenance 

and manners were pleasing. We felt much attached 







210 MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS 



to each otlier. He said silently to my servant, " This 

is a man of the Wake (God.)" Finally, I asked him 

for several boys to take with me to Ankobar, in order 

to instruct them there, promising that I would return 

with them to IMulofalada. He answered, " I shall come 

to Ankobar after several months, and then we will 

speak about this matter, and you will speak with the 

King/^ I shall not fail to acquaint the King of it, as 

soon as possible. I have spoken much with Alaca 

Serat about the Galla people, and given him some proofs 

of my translation, and he seems not to be against the 

instruction of that nation j but I am afraid that others 

will prevent the King from giving his permission to my 

undertaking, as they know that the Christian faith is 

not brought by us to the Gallas in the Abyssinian 

manner. However, I shall explain to the King, first, 

that it is the commandment of Christ to teach all peo- 

ple the Christian Religion ; secondly, the responsibility 

of the Christians of Shoa, if they do not care them- 

selves for the eternal welfare of the Gallas ; thu-dly, the 

great advantage arising to the King himself from the 

christianization of the Gallas, who would then be good 

subjects to him, considering him a King united to them 

by the bond of the same faith ; and, fourthly, I shall 

beg him for his permission in the furtherance of my 

object, and for the protection of my person. At the 

same time, I shall speak about my plan respecting a 

Mission among the tribe IMulofalada. 



We commenced our march this morning about nine 







IX THE TERRITORY OF MAITSHA. 211 



o'clock. The King had ordered a soldier to be killed^ 

who had killed his fellow-man the day before. They 

often kill their own people, in order to be able to say 

that they have killed a Galla ; in which case they re- 

ceive fi'om the King the value of twenty or sixty pieces 

of salt, or a shield, horse, mule, or something else. On 

our way a singer of the King asked me about various 

disputed matters among the learned of Shoa. The 

King on every expedition takes with him twelve singers, 

who begin theii- songs at midnight, and continue vdih- 

out ceasing till break of day. At Ankobar there are 

one hundi'ed and fifty-six singers. These people sing 

psalms and hymns, generally to the praise of IMary ; 

but in such a horrible manner that M. Rochet, who had 

his tent near the King's, was unable to sleep. 



February 1, 1840 — AVe set out from our camp about 

seven o'clock this morning ; but about ten o'clock the 

King gave orders to encamp. Having aiTanged this, the 

King went out to hunt buffalos and elephants, which 

are seldom to be met with in the forests of Metta. M. 

Rochet and myself accompanied the King. About 

eleven o'clock we rested a little on a mountain, where 

we had a most beautiful prospect in all directions. In 

the south-west, wc saw the majestic mountains in the 

territoiy of Maitsha, with their immense forests; and 

on the south-west we had before us the high mountain 

Entoto, where several of the Kings of Abyssinia had 

resided, till Gragne, the King of Adel, destroyed the 

city built there, the ruins of which, I was informed. 







212 MOUNTAIN OF SEKUALA. 



still existed on the mountain. Nebla Dengliel is said 

to have been the last King who resided there. He took 

flight to the neighbouring mountain Ferrer, and then 

to the mountain Bokan, till he was compelled to retire 

to Tigre ; when the Gallas profiting by this opportunity- 

entered this part of Shoa after the death of Gragne. 

Thus Gurague was separated from Shoa. They took 

the most beautiful provinces. The priests of the King 

showed me in the territory of Mulofalada several hills, 

where, they said, chm-ches had formerly been. The 

history of these churches, I understood, are written in 

a book, called Tarik, which Sentshar said he possessed, 

and promised to let me see it after his return to Ankobar. 

We also saw in the south-east the high mountain Se- 

kuala, where, I was informed, is the grave of a cele- 

brated saint, called Guebra Manfus Redus, to which 

the people of Shoa make annual pilgrimages. This 

saint is said to have destroyed by his prayers 500 genii. 

There is water on the top of the mountain. To the 

south we observed the immense plain of the H awash, 

in which is a high single mountain, called Wata Dalat- 

sha. Beyond the plain are the mountains of Soddo 

Gurague. 



About one o'clock the people made a loud cry, the 

King having killed a great buffalo on his horse with a 

single lance. Therefore the singing wives praised the 

King. Killing a buffalo is an act of great bravery, and 

a man who has killed one, is considered as if he had 

killed five Gallas : therefore he has the privilege to 







SOURCES OF THE HAW ASH. 213 



adorn his hair with a branch from the juniper tree. 

About three o'clock we returned to our camp, which 

was on the riAiilet Tshamtsham. 



February 2, 1840— This morning, accompanied by 

M. Rochet, I went to the tent of the King, to make in- 

quiry about the sources of the Hawash. The King told 

us that there was a large marsh between the Soddo, 

Betsho Woreb, and INlaitsha tribes, from which, as far 

as he knew, the Hawash took its rise. As the King 

intends to march against the Soddo and Maitsha tribes, 

we shall be enabled to ascertain the correctness of this 

information. About ten o'clock we passed a river, the 

name of which I could not learn : it forms the frontier 

between the jNIetta and Maitsha Gallas ; and over which 

the Gallas have thro^^ni a small bridge, nicely con- 

structed. The country between Metta and ]Maitsha is 

neither inhabited nor cultivated in the circuit of more 

than twelve hom-s, though it is the finest country of the 

world, being rich in water, wood, and a good soil ; 

these tribes being at war with each other. Thus the 

enmity of man desolates a country which God has 

richly blessed. At present it is the dwelling-place of 

elephants, buffalos, and other beasts. The country of 

Maitsha is chvided into twelve tribes, who are in con- 

tinual hostilities with each other. The names of them 

are : 1. Kuttai, into which we entered to-day; 2. Nono; 

3. Sankalla; 4. WoUiso ; 5. Guma; 6. Gera ; 7. 

Gooderoo. About the rest I have no information. On 

the south of Kuttai, in the i)laiu of the Hawash, is the 







214 RETURN TO ANGOLLALA. 



tribe Betsho Woreb, whicb is to be distinguished from 

Betsho Fugik, near the Nile. 



About ten o'clock the tents were made up, when the 

King made an excursion to a mountain, on which we 

could overlook the whole plain of the Hawash to its end, 

where probably is the marsh which the King men- 

tioned to-day. Its distance from the Nile may be a 

day's journey. If these countries were civilized, 1 think 

the Hawash would become of gi'eat importance to com- 

merce, as it has an extent of nearly 200 hom's from its 

soui'ce to Aussa in the country of Adel, where it forms 

a sea, and is navigable, at least in the rainy season, 

from its som'ce to Aussa. I have never heard that there 

were cataracts in this river. In the west of the Hawash 

is the Nile, which is navigable for a long distance. The 

King, having bui'nt all the ^illages around, returned to 

his camp at Logagontsha, on a ri^^Ilet of the same 

name. 



February 3, 18 40 — We left our camp about eight 

o'clock this morning to retm'u to Angollala. We did not 

wish to retm-n so soon, as we were desirous of seeing 

the interior of Maitsha, Soddo, and Gurague. On our 

retm'n, we took a south-east direction. About ten 

o'clock, we passed the river between Metta and Maitsha, 

and on which we had encamped last night. I learned 

that it is called Logagontsha. About twelve o'clock, 

we entered into the territory of Metta Tshamer, or Metta 

Wotsheta, from the mountain Entoto, which the Gallas 

call Wotsheta. About two o'clock, we encamped at the 







HOT "WELLS OF FINFINI. - 215 



foot of Entoto, in a plain called Tshaffe holata, where 

the King ordered a great number of tillages to be 

bui-nt. At night we observed the fire by which the 

people of Ababerga destroyed, on a neighbouring moun- 

tain, all the villages which had broiight theii- tributes 

to the King. Thus they act against all Gallas mak- 

ing fi'iendship with the King of Shoa. 



Fehruar^j 4 — The question of a man, whether the 

Gallas are our brothers or not, gave occasion for a con- 

A'ersation till we set out about nine o^clock. We 

marched south-east as yesterday. About ten o'clock 

the people of Tshamich left us to return to their coun- 

trv. Seeing Tshara returning, I prayed fervently in 

my heart, that the Lord would not let him forget what 

I had said to him about my object. About twelve 

o'clock, we touched on our route the territory of Adda ; 

and about three o'clock we encamped at Legemie, in 

the ten-itory of Finfini, in the neighbourhood of the 

mountain Sekuala, on the west of which is another 

high mountain, called Fourri. In the east of our 

camp we had the mountain Ferrer. The Sekuala, En- 

toto, and Wata Dalatsha, form a nice western triangle 

of mountains ; while the Fourri, Sckiiala, and Ferrer, 

form an eastern triangle in the plain of the H awash. 

From our camp we could see very well the mountains 

of Soddo and Gurague, as well as the mountains of the 

Liban, Lumic, and Arroosi tribes in the east of Gu- 

rague. 



February 5 — About ten o'clock, we saw on our 







216 SLAVE MARKETS. 



route^ which was north-east, the hot wells in the terri- 

tory of Finfinij at the foot of a chain of mountains of 

the same name. I saw three wells which were very 

sulphurous, and so hot that I could not put my fingers 

in it for a moment. There are several villages in the 

neighbourhood. The ground is very sterile, and does 

not present to the eye the same beautiful aspect as the 

territories of Mulofalada, Adaberga, Metta, and Mait- 

sha. However, it is well inhabited and cultivated, and 

the people have been attached to the King for many 

years. About eleven o'clock, we entered into the 

territory of the tribe Germama, On the way the King 

received the tribute from the Galla of Ferrer, consist- 

ing of about twenty beautiful horses and forty cows. 

At the foot of Ferrer is a village called Roggie, where 

there is a large market, at which the people of 

Gurague and the neighbouring Gallas sell their slaves, 

horses, cows, and other productions, coming from the 

interior of Africa. This market is on the route to 

Gurague, which is quite safe as far as the mountain of 

Sekuala and the plain of the Hawash. On arriving 

at this plain, the traveller is in danger of being pil- 

laged by the Soddo Gallas coming from the west. From 

Sekuala it is a day's journey to Aimellele, the first vil- 

lage of Gurague, situated on a mountain, which I have 

seen to-day. The Governor of the Ferrer Gallas is much 

attached to the King. His name is Shambo. His 

duty is to conduct the merchants to Gurague. I en- 

deavoured to make my acquaintance with him ; but as 







CONVERSATION WITH TECLA MICHAEL. 217 



he returned directly to liis countryj I had only a few 

moments to speak with him. There are several other 

slave markets in the neighbourhood of the Hawash, 

which give much occasion for the perpetual wars in 

which the Galla tribes are engaged with each other, 

in order to make slaves and to sell them at their mar- 

kets, where they are bought for three or live dollars. 



February Q, 1840 — This morning I gave my Amharic 

New Testament to Tecla IMichael, a secretaiy of the 

King. He read Matt. iii. in the presence of a ^laho- 

medan Hadji, Ab Errachman, the Interpreter of ]I. 

Rochet. On reading verse 4, And his meat teas locusts 

and wild honey, he asked whether John had indeed 

eaten locusts. I said, " Yes, locusts such as we saw 

several days ago." He replied, "We interpret the word 

anbata, (locusts) to mean a plant which is found after 

the rainy season.'^ I said, " ^^liy do you change the 

Word of God to favour your fixed interpretations ? " 

The Mahomedan was very glad at hearing my opposi- 

tion. I then said, "I know that you arc afraid of 

making John a Mahomedan ; but you are wrong. 

You sin in two respects ; fii-st, you change God's Word 

on account of your interpretations, and thus give oc- 

casion for ]lahomedans to say, that Christians change 

and falsify the Scriptures ; and, secondly, you declare 

God's creation to be unclean, which is not according to 

1 Tim. iv. 8. We have better and stronger ])roofs 

against Mahomedans, and need not change the word 

locusts. What if John did eat locusts like IMahomc- 







318 ON CIRCUMCISION 



dans ? He lias given witness to Christ, whose messen- 

ger he proved himself; which you cannot say about 

Mahomed." He could not object to anything that I 

said. 



On our way to-day, I spoke much with Alaca Serat, 

Alaca Mclat, and Tecla jMichael about slavery, remark- 

ing, that the abolition of it had a great influence on 

the fall of the Mahomedan religion. Then Alaca 

Melat asked me whether circumcision was customary 

in my country. I said that Christ had instituted bap- 

tism instead of circumcision ; and that if circumcision 

were necessary, Christ would have commanded it. He 

then asked, whether our children just born went to 

the Lord^s table. I said, " No, because St. Paul says, 

1 Cor. xi. 28, Lei a man examine himself, and so 

let him eat of that bread, and drink of that cup ; 

but how can childi'cn just born examine themselves ?" 

He then replied, " You are right in this respect." He 

also asked, whether the tree in paradise had been a 

sycamore. I said, " I do not know; nor how long Adam 

was in the garden. I only know that he was there ; 

that he transgressed God's commandment, by desir- 

ing more knowledge than God had allowed him ; and 

that he was driven out of the garden." He next asked 

about the Apocryphal books. I said, that as they 

were not written in the Hebrew language, and several 

things occm'ring in them inconsistent with other 

canonical books, we did not consider them as being of 

equal authority with the other books. Afterward, Alaca 







AND OTHER SUBJECTS. 219. 



Serat and Alaca ]Melat asked me, whether Christians, 

or Mahomedans, or Pagans, were prevailing in number. 

I said, that we reckoned there were about six hundred 

millions of Heathens, two hundred and ten millions of 

Christians, one hundred and seventy millions of Maho- 

medans, and twenty millions of Jews. They were 

astonished at the number of heathens ; and therefore 

I took the opportunity of speaking about Missionary 

and Bible Societies in my country. About nine o'clock, 

we entered into the territory of the Abedtshoo ; first 

into the district Parra Berck, and then into the district 

Wodermertoo. 



February 7, 1840 — We left our camp about seven 

o'clock this morning. We passed several rivulets flow- 

ing north-west. A priest, with whom I had conversed 

some days ago, said to me this morning, that he was 

condnced that all their books were useless without the 

Bible. I replied, " That is not my meaning, but that 

you should examine them to see whether they accord 

with the Scripture, that being alone the rule of Chris- 

tian faith and practice." Alaca ]Ielat asked mc, who 

was the author of the Epistle to the Hebrews ? I said, 

that most of our learned men are of opinion, that St. 

Paul wrote it, proving it from Hebrews xiii. 23. But, 

he remarked, why did not St. Paul give us his name ? 

I said, " We do not know this exactly ; but it seems that 

St. Paul, who wrote to the Christians gathered from 

among the Jews, who were much offended with the 

Christian doctrine, intentionally concealed his name, 



L o 







220 CHRISTIANITY SUPERIOR TO JUDAISM. 



which, had it been placed at the beginning of his letter 

would have prevented the reception of the doctrine 

into the hearts of the readers. Besides, the Apos- 

tle Paul did not consider himself as a messenger 

to the Jews, and therefore might have thought it better 

to omit his name. He intended only to prove to 

the Hebrew Christians the superiority of the Christian 

faith, inasmuch as Christ had infinitely greater glory 

than Moses, and as all the types of the Old Testament 

were fulfilled in Him ; and therefore you should 

continue in that faith, not being moved either by the 

teachers of the Jews, or by the fire of persecution. 

As St. Paul had to deal with Jews, he proved his 

doctrine from the Old Testament, in order to destroy 

radically their attachment to Judaism ; and there- 

fore the dress in which he put his letter should not 

deter us from attributing to him the authorship of the 

Epistle.^' Alaca Melat was exceedingly pleased with 

what I said, saying, that it was just their opinion. I 

said, that I did not know this ; but wished that I 

could agree with them in all other points of Scrip- 

ture. Alaca Melat is much attached to me, and said 

before others that was I their father, like Muallem, an 

Armenian, who died two years ago, and was like an 

Abuna of Shoa : so much did the King like him, that 

he built him a large house. Muallem ordained several 

deacons by imposition of hands. It would not be 

difficult for me to acquire the authority which Muallem 

had ; but as in adhering to the pure Scripture truth, 







SIN THE CAUSE OF DEATH. 221 



I must oppose the Abyssinians, I cannot therefore 

expect to obtain such influence. 



Fehruary 8, 1840 — This is the last day of our expe- 

dition. We set out after six o'clock, A Debtera asked 

me on our way, whether death came into the world on 

account of Adam's sin or our own, and why the Saints 

died ? I said, that God is a God of order, and has made 

all things with a wise and holy order — that He intro- 

duced death on account of Adam's sin, as we read Gen. 

iii. — that as we inherit the sin of Adam, we must die 

hke him, because death is the wages of sin ; but that if 

the life of Christ is in us by a real faith in Him, it is 

the order of His love, that our death should become an 

entrance to our rest and eternal joy with Christ. With 

regard to the Saints, I said, that they had all died, with 

the exception of Enoch and Elias, who were taken 

away as types of Christ's ascension, and as evidences 

of man's immortality; that as the Saints descended 

from one sinful father, Adam, and were not free 

from personal sins till the end of their lives, they were 

not exempted from the order of God's justice ; and that 

as the sun daily rises on good as well as bad men, accord- 

ing to the first order and institution of God, so death 

comes upon all j but its consequences are determined 

by belief or unbelief in Christ. 



On our way to-day, I conversed with several Gallas, 

and endeavoured to get some further information re- 

specting their religious ideas ; but they could not tell 

me anything which I did not already know. As to the 







222 ADVANTAGES OBTAINED 



rest, I must oppose those who are of opinion that the 

Gallas have no religious ideas whatever. Certain it is, 

that they have an idea of an invisible Being, which they 

call Wake— that man exists after death, receiving the 

wages of his bad or good life — that they pray to the 

Wake, and offer sacrifices to the Deities Oglia and 

Atete — and that they have a kind of priests, called Kal- 

litshotshj and some civil order. It is remarkable that 

they very much esteem the Lord's Day, which they 

call Sanbata Guda (Great Sabbath), on which day they 

do not labour. Very early in the morning they pray 

to the Wake. I am inclined to consider this custom of 

the Gallas, if they have not received it from the sur- 

rounding Christians, as a remnant of the fii'st institu- 

tion of the Sabbath. 



About nine o'clock we passed the river Tshatsha, 

and arrived at Angollala about ten o'clock. The whole 

priesthood received the King at the foot of the hill 

on which his palace is situated. They prayed for him 

and blessed him. As he had killed a buffalo, he was 

adorned with his royal ornaments, which he had put on 

half an hour before he entered Angollala. He had 

the hide of a leopard over his ordinary cloth ; on his 

head he had a plait of silver hanging in little chains 

over his face ; and on his shoulders he had three chains 

of gold, a symbol of the Trinity. If he has not 

killed anything, he is not received by the priesthood. 

Having performed this ceremony, he entered his 

palace ; while the soldiers fired their guns, and made 







BY THE EXPEDITION. 223 



a long cry of joy. Thus the expedition ended, by 

which the King has obtained little advantage, as the 

Gallas refused their tribute, taking refuge to their 

mountains. With regard to myself, I have reason to 

praise my God for having preserved my health and 

life, and for giving me some hints for my future IMis- 

siouary labours. 



I conclude wdth some remarks on the advantages 

which I think I have obtained by the expedition. 



1 . Having seen the territories of the southern Gallas 

of Shoa, I am able to form a better judgment of their 

situation, &c. than before. 



2. I have observed some places which I think are 

fit for the undertaking of a Galla Mission. The first 

place where I believe that a Missionary could begin, is 

in the tribe of Mulofalada, under the protection of 

Queen Tshamieh. He would there be in the midst of 

Galla tribes ; and besides, he would be far from the 

influence of Abyssinian priests. And as to his con- 

nexion with his brethren in Shoa, he could avail him- 

self of the connexion of Tshamieh, who always sends 

messengers to Ankobar. A second place for a Galla 

IIission is Ferrer, on the route to Guraguc, in the 

neighbourhood of Bulga and Mentshar. There a 

Missionary would enjoy more protection than even 

with Tshamieh. The Governor of Ferrer appears to 

me to be favourable to a Missionary undertaking in 

his tribe, as he has been educated at Ankobar with the 

boys of the King, and his brother, who is Gover- 







224 ADVANTAGES OBTAINED 



nor of a neighbouring tribe^ is a Christian. A third 

place for a Galla Mission is perhaps Mughir, in the 

neighbourhood of Dcbra Libanos and the Nile; but 

as I have not seen the Governor of that tribe, I cannot 

say anything further respecting that place. I have 

only heard that the Governor is much attached to the 

King. The Lord grant that the time for the salvation 

of the Gallas may come, and that this great nation 

may live before Him ! This was my continual prayer 

on this expedition. 



3. On this expedition I have become knowTi to the 

people of Shoa, as well as to the Gallas. I have con- 

versed with people from all the provinces of Shoa ; with 

governors, priests, alacas, secretaries of the King, and 

many other people. 



4. The Gallas, as well as the people of Amhara, 

have seen my relation to the King, who respected me 

on this expedition. I do not lay much stress on this ; 

but it is important in the eyes of the people. I know 

the King's attachment to his religion and priests, and 

that I cannot trust him much ; but I might protit by 

his present kindness toward me to procure fresh ground 

for our Mission among the Gallas, as I do not know 

how the King will behave himself in course of time, 

particularly if the Abuna comes from Cairo, who is 

expected in the month of May. 



5. I have observed in what manner a IMissionary 

may be useful on the expeditions of the King. He 

can preach and distribute books in the forenoon before 







BY THE EXPEDITION. 225 



the King sets out, and in the afternoon when he rests. 

On the way, he can converse with many people, without 

being molested by beggars as at home. 



Finally, the expedition occupies but little of the 

Missionary's time, as after fifteen or twenty days he 

returns to his ordinary business at home. 



I beg leave to remark, that I hope the Committee 

will be pleased to take these hints into consideration, 

so that they may lead them to the resolution of increas- 

ing the Shoa Mission by one or two labourers. At the 

same time, I remember what I have before WTitten 

relative to sending a skilful and pious mechanic, who 

would be able to recommend the Mission to the King. 







L 5 







CHAPTER V. 



CONVERSATION WITH DEBTERAS — PREPARATIONS FOR THE FORTY DAYS 

FASf OF THE ABYSSINIANS — SUPERSTITIOUS OPINION — ABYSSINIAN 

LITERATURE — VISITED BY A PRIEST OF BULGA — MODE OF EXPLAIN- 

ING SCRIPTURE — DEMAND FOR ^THIOPIC SCRIPTURES — SUPPOSED 

ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS — NOTICES OF A GALLA TRIBE CALLED AVATO 

— VISIT TO THE MONASTERY OF THE TABIBAN — MR. KRAPF ACCOM- 

PANIES THE KING TO DEBRA LIBANOS — ARRIVE AT SENA MARKOS, 

A HOLY PLACE OF THE ABYSSINIANS — ARRIVE AT DEBRA LIBANOS — 

VISIT TO THE AVELL OF TECLA HAIMANOT — MIRACULOUS POWERS 

ATTRIBUTED TO THE WATER — SUPERSTITIOUS PRACTICE— RETURN TO 

ANKOBAR — NOTICES OF CAMBAT — LETTER FROM THE KING TO THE 

GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY — FURTHER NOTICES OF THE CUSTOMS OF THE 

GALLAS— NOTICES OF WOLAMO, CAFFA, AND SENTSHERO. 



Fehruary 13, 1840 — Several Debteras of the Churches 

of St. INIary and St. George were with me this after- 

noon. The Debteras of St. Mary asserted that Christ, 

after the consummation of all things, will praise His 

Father in His human nature; while the Debteras of 

St. George asserted that Christ will judge in His deity, 

and not praise the Father. "VMiile they were vehemently 

disputing, I was silent, in order to learn their opinions 

and their manner of disputing. They then begged me 

to decide which was right. I said, that the Georgians 

were decidedly wrong as to the nature in which Christ 

shall judge, because from Matt. xxv. 31; John v. 3, 7; 







CONVERSATION V/ITII DEBTERAS. 227 



and Acts xvii. 31, it is clear that He will judge in 

His glorified human nature ; but whether He would 

praise the Father in that nature, we had not sufficient 

proof in Scripture, though 1 Cor. xv. 28. might be 

considered as implying this. I then exhorted them to 

desist from their disputes, and prepare their minds for 

the gi'eat day on which we shall wish to stand blame- 

less before the Son of Man. A Debtera then said, 

that the monk Abba Sawold, in his Scripture lessons 

always compared my Amharic Pentateuch with the 

yEthiopic, and that he was pleased with it. Another 

Debtera spoke about the book called Tethanegest, 

(Judgment of the Kings) saying, that it had fallen from 

heaven at the time of Constantine the Great. Another 

spoke about the King of Shoa, who, two years ago, had 

given strict orders that every man should keep the 

fasts which the Church had appointed ; and that if any 

one should transgress this order, he should be put to 

prison. The King had observed that many people did 

not fast. I spoke about the scriptural way of salva- 

tion ; and oljserved, that if a sick man should add 

another medicine to what was prescribed by the physi- 

cian, he would die beyond doubt. 



February 21 — A priest of Lasta came to see me, to 

whom I spoke very freely on the duties of a Christian 

and a Christian priest. Afterward the King's painter 

came to see my book of pictures. In the evening, I 

wrote a letter to Bombay, and prepared a chest of 

iEthiopic Manuscripts for Ali Arab to take to Aden. 







228 SUPERSTITIOUS OPINION. 



February 23, 1840 — Alaca Serat called upon me. 

We spoke about geography. I encouraged liim to 

translate into iEthiopic the geographical book written 

by Mr. Isenberg, which he promised to do. 



February 28 — To-day the Abyssinians are preparing 

for the forty days fast, on which account it is called 

Kabala, when they cleanse their kitchen vessels, par- 

ticularly those used in preparing meat. As my female 

servant had to pre]:)are some oil, she said that every 

male person must withdraw, else the oil would become 

useless on account of their shadow. I said, " I re- 

quest that they remain, and see how you prepare the 

oil. I suppose that you wish to take a part of it, and 

therefore in order to do so, you have recourse to super- 

stition." The people were therefore present when she 

prepared the oil, which did not on that account become 

useless. I took the opportunity of exposing then- 

superstitious opinions, particularly their bearing amu- 

lets, for which they sometimes pay two or three 

dollars, while they will not spend one piece of salt for 

a copy of the Bible. 



March 7 — To-day M. Rochet departed, being furnished 

with letters and presents for the King of France. I went 

to Farri to see Mr. Airston, a Scotchman, who had 

arrived in Shoa several days ago, and who was sick. 

He was described to me by Mr. Isenberg as a friend to 

the cause of Missions. 



March 8—10—1 was at Farri with Mr. Airston, 

who complained of suffering great pain in his head. 







DEATH OF MR. AIRSTON. 229 



After ^I. Rochet had bled him, he felt better, and 

begged me to go quickly to Angollala to inform the 

King of his arrival, and his waiting for orders to be 

admitted to his presence. 



March 12 — To-day I met with the King, who 

anxiously inquired after Mr. Airston, and requested 

me to bring him to Angollala as soon as possible. 



March 14 — To-day, when I was about setting out 

for Farri, I received the painful news that Mr. Airston 

died before day-break, and that he had been buried at 

Aigebber, a Christian village in the neighbourhood of 

Farri. This Gentleman's disease was inflammation of 

the brain, occasioned by the hardships he had under- 

gone in the country of Adel, particularly in the plain 

of the H awash. 



March 18 — I was called by the King to Angollala. 

He asked me what he should do with Mr, Airston's 

effects. I said, that in my country it was usual in such 

a case to send the effects of a deceased person to his 

relations at home ; but as Mr. Airston's country was 

far from Shoa, I would advise him to write a letter to 

his friends or relations, to ask them what he should do 

with his effects. The King however did not follow my 

advice, but took all that belonged to this gentleman. 

Thus the relations of a European dying in this coun- 

try cannot expect to receive any part of his property. 

I consider that the King gave a bad example for the 

future in such a case ; for if I should die, all my 

property would fall into his hands, and my fellow- 







230 ABYSSINIAN LITERATURE. 



labourer would receive nothing, except what the King 

might give him in the form of a present. 



March 22, 1840 — Debtera Habta Selassieh came to 

see me. He gave me some information respecting Abys- 

sinian literature. Their books, he said, are divided into 

four goobaiotsh, or parts ; the first part consisting of 

the books of the Old Testament ; the second, of the 

New Testament ; the third, the books of the Liks, or 

perfect masters, as the works of Chrysostom, Tetha- 

negest, and, Abooshaker ; and fourthly, the books of 

the monks. But none of their learned men studied 

all these books, most of them only knowing singing 

and some parts of the Old and New Testaments. Such 

books as are considered equal to the Bible (like Sinodis, 

&c.) are called " Auwaled ; " and those which are not, 

'' Wootshi," which means external. 



March 29 — In the morning, I read with Debtera 

Worknech Matt. 17, and then in the book Meelad, 

which I have mentioned before. It is divided into 

five parts ; treating, first, on the Trinity ; secondly, the 

Son ; thirdly, the Holy Ghost ; fourthly, the order of 

the Church and the Holy Supper ; and, fifthly, about 

the resurrection. 



In the afternoon, Debtera Kefloo, who was formerly 

sent by the King to Mr. Isenberg at Adowah, came to 

me, saying, that as he wished to return to Tigre, he 

would attempt to reconcile Oobieh to us, I said, that 

we had no enmity against him ; but that if he thought 

he could dispose him to recall us to Tigre, he might 







VISITED BY GURAGUEANS. 231 



make the attempt. He said that Habta Selassie, our 

friend in Tigve, had requested him to speak with me 

on this matter. 



April 1 — The Guragueans who arrived several days 

ago came to see me to-day. I read with them in the 

Gospel, and distributed afterward several copies of the 

New Testament among them. If I could be a bless- 

ing to this people dm*ing their stay at Ankobar, I 

shovild be very glad. I asked a priest, whether their 

Governor had received the book I sent him. He said, 

that he had accepted it with the greatest pleasm-e, and 

had shown it to all his people -, that the rumom' was 

spread over the whole country, that a white man had 

come from beyond the Great Sea, having brought with 

him many Bibles, carried on camels ; and that, after a 

short time, the people of Cambat and Sentshero would 

hear it. In the evening, Tshara, the Governor of the 

Galla tribe Mulofalada, came and brought to me an ox, 

in sign of friendship. I said that I did not look for 

this ; but I longed for teaching his countrymen the 

'\'ord of God, as I had told him formerly. He said 

that he would receive me, with the King's permission. 

Finally, he promised, that if he should come again to 

Shoa in the month of September next, he would pre- 

sent me with a fine horse. I replied, that I should be 

glad if he would deliver to me some Youths, whom I 

might instmct. 



April 6 — I spoke with the King about my inten- 

tion of teaching the Gallas. He said, "You shall not 







233 MEDICINES FOR THE TAPE WORM. 



go at present : you shall go fii-st with me to Gurague, 

and distribute books : afterward, you shall go to the 

Gallas." Thus he makes excuses to prevent my going 

to the Gallas. I showed him the First Chapter of St. 

John, which I had translated into the Galla Language, 

and written in Amharic Characters. He was much 

pleased, and said, " You are a strong people." 



My servants to-day took the usual medicine against 

the tape-worm, which they repeat every two or three 

months. They told me that there were five diflferent 

remedies used in their country ; fii-st, Kosso, which is 

the most general medicine ; secondly, the fruit of 

the Enkoko, a kind of wood, like the branch of a 

vine ; thirdly, Katshamo, another kind of wood ; 

fourthly, the fruit of Kaloa; and fifthly, Maeteri, a 

kind of grass. This latter, they said, destroys the 

worm for ever, or at least for a long time ; but it is 

seldom found except in the valleys of Bulga. 



April 11, 1840 — To-day a priest from Bulga came, 

saying, that he wished to know personally the man who 

had sent a copy of the Ts'ew Testament to his church. 

I spoke with him very openly, and I believe that he 

went away impressed with what I had said to him. 

I then called upon Alaca Wolda Hanna, who gave me 

some proofs of their skill in explaining Scripture. 

The foxes have holes, and the birds of the air have 

nests : Matt. viii. 20, he explained thus : Foxes are 

kings and governors, who seek only for earthly 

things ; but the birds are the priests and bishops, who 







SCRIPTURE INTERPRETATION. 233 



riv to heaven in their prayers and holy functions. 

Furthermore, Jlatt. v. 29 : If thy right eye offend 

thee, S(c. He said, that the eye is the wife ; the hand, 

the servant ; and the right eye, the child. "When I 

told him the way in Avhich we explained this passage, 

he replied, " That is but one sense : we are fond of 

many senses of Scripture." I then showed him the 

fooHsh and bad consequences of so explaining the 

Word of God, and that God would become displeased 

^vith us if we substitute two or more senses, just as 

the King of Shoa would become angry, if his people 

were to give some other meaning to his orders. 



A poor priest brought me his son, whose name is 

Sena Georgis, in order to have him instructed and edu- 

cated. I readily complied with his request. Thus I 

have three regular scholars. Afterward, two other 

priests, one from Bulga, and the other from Debra Li- 

banos, came begging for books. Another also came 

from the neighbourhood of the Karaiu Gallas, in the 

south of Shoa, for the same purpose. I gave to each 

of them a copy of the New Testament, exhorted them to 

teach themselves and their flocks at home, and to reflect 

upon the conversion of their heathenish neighbours. 



April 18— This moi-ning, three men, who were sent 

by Alaca Senos of Tegulet, came begging for ^Ethiopic 

copies of the New Testament. As I had given them 

all away, I sent him the Amharic New Testament and 

Pentateuch. A Debtcra afterward came and spoke 

about the origin of the Gallas. He said, that the 







23i ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS. 



mother of the Gallas had been a woizoro (lady) of the 

Abyssinian Kings when they resided on the mountain 

EntotOj in the neighbourhood of Gurague — that the 

lady was given in marriage to a slave from the south 

of Gurague, by whom she had seven sons, who were 

educated in their father's language and customs, as 

well as in his business, which was that of a herdsman — • 

that the sons became great robbers, having gathered 

many people with them — that three of these sons were 

called Tulema, Karaiu, and Maitsha ; and hence the 

Tribes of these names— that when they thought they 

were strong enough, they began to fight mth the Abys- 

sinians, and frequently vanquished them, particularly 

on one occasion near the river Gala, in Gurague ; and 

hence they have been called Gallas to the present day. 

When Mahomed Gragne desolated Shoa and Gurague, 

the Gallas entered and took possession of many fine 

places. All this is written in a small treatise, of which 

I have procured a copy. This account of the origin 

of the Gallas I think is very probable. 



April 24, 1840 — To-day begins what is called by the 

Abyssinians Kenona, that is, for three days the people 

neither eat nor drink ; and the Bala Dirgo, or those who 

receive their maintenance from the King, receive only 

dry bread, because these are days of prayer. However, 

I received my portion from the King's table as at other 

times. To-day I took another boy into my house, who 

wished to be instructed. He is from Dima in Godt- 

sham. Thus I have four scholars. 







OBSERVANCE OF FASTS. 235 



yipr'il 25 : Good Friday — This is tlie first Good 

Friday for the last four years that I have been able 

to celebrate in silence and without outward trouble, 

having been formerly always travelling on this day. I 

prayed that the power of Christ's death might come 

upon myself, as well as upon this poor country. 



Ajjril 27 — This morning the strong fast of the 

Abyssinians ended. Since the evening of the 24th, 

the people, particularly the priests, have abstained from 

all food. If they are not able to overcome their bodily 

wants, they eat a citron. As to the priests, they arc 

in the chm'ches day and night, singing and praying ; 

so that I am surprised that they are able to endure it 

so long. The Abyssinians strictly keep the fast of the 

primitive Church, which was forty hours. This morn- 

ing the priests of the five chm'ches w^ent to the King, 

who called me to see their ceremonies. After the priest 

of each church had finished their hjTiins in honour of 

the King, each Alaca recited an epigram in praise of 

the King. For instance, Alaca Serat said that the 

Gallas, who were formerly superior to the Abyssinians, 

have at present been weakened as far as Maitsha by the 

heroic virtue of Sahela Selassieh. Wolda Hanna, the 

Alaca of St. George, said, '' The people of the Franks 

are come to praise and adore the King of Shoa." In- 

deed, if they were against me, they could do me much 

harm, as on such occasions they speak what they like, 

and all the people of Ankobar are assembled. Gene- 

rally speaking, I am convinced that in case a strong 







236 NOTICES OF THE 



opposition should arise against our Mission, the priests 

would have more power than they had in Tigre, because 

the King is influenced more by them than Oobieh. I 

therefore endeavour, so far as it is compatible with the 

Word of God, to make the priests my friends ; and for 

this purpose I have found it of great use to read with 

them the Word of God, and to explain it in a simple, 

clear, and practical manner. Besides, I endeavour to 

keep up a friendly intercourse with the Alacas of the 

Churches, and visit them sometimes in the church on 

Lord's days. Also on fast days (Wednesday and Friday) 

I have resolved, for well-considered reasons, to abstain 

at least from meat. After the King had kissed the 

cross which was presented to him by the Alaca of each 

church, all the people went home, and then the Fasika 

(eating and drinking) began. The King sent me a 

cow. 



April 28, 1840 — This morning two Watos came to 

see me. The W^atos are Gallas, dwelling on the mountain 

Wato-Dalatsha, which I saw on our expedition to Maitsha, 

in the neighbourhood of the Hawash. The Watos say 

that they alone are pm-e Gallas, and therefore they do 

not marry the others. When I asked about their bu- 

siness, they replied, that it was to bless and to curse. 

With this view, they go from tribe to tribe, and neither 

Gallas nor Christians will touch them ; being convinced, 

they say, that whom the Watos bless are blessed, and 

whom they cm-se are cursed ; and they are not wanting 

on their parts to relate a number of instances to show 







GALL A TRIBE WATO. 237 



the success of their blessings. When the Watos enter 

the houses of the Gallas, they are directly prevented 

by them, who are in great fear of their cursing. How- 

ever, they let them eat and drink as much as they like, 

because if they did not, the Watos would curse them. 

They are particularly fond of the flesh of the hippo- 

potamus, which they kill in great numbers in the Ha- 

wash ; and in this respect they resemble the Woitos in 

Amhara, whom I have before mentioned. The other 

G alias are not fond of this flesh, nor that of hens, though 

they sacrifice the hen to the bad spirits (Sarotsh). 

They also told me that they sometimes sacrifice a white 

cow to the OgUa, and a male-goat to the Atete ; that 

they pray much on the Sanbata Gudda (Great Sab- 

bath), and take cofi"ee on that day in honour of Oglia ; 

on which account coffee di-inking is despised by the 

Christians, as well as in opposition to the Mahomedans. 

They said that I might travel any where with them 

without fear. On asking them about the sources of 

the Hawash, they told me that it rose from a marsh at 

the foot of a mountain called Entsheti, between Mait- 

sha and Betsho Woreb. As they were about to bless 

me, I said that I would make them acquainted with 

the blessings of Him who created heaven and earth, 

and had so loved mankind that He gave His Son Jesus 

Christ to redeem them from sin, and to make them 

happy in this and another world, if they would only 

believe in His blessed Son. I then endeavoured to 

show them the nature of sin, and the necessity of a 







238 VISIT TO THE 



Savioiu" in order to be reconciled to God. The Chris- 

tians who heard me speaking with heathens about 

Christ and faith in Him, were much pleased. 



April 29, 1840 — All the people were eating and 

drinking, and many excesses wxre committed in the 

streets. The Debteras were worst of all. One of them 

being drunk to-day, cut off the hand of his friend, and 

took to flight. In the evening they went thi'ough the 

town begging for alms. I took the opportunity of showr 

ing them the bad consequences of their fasting. These 

Debteras, a year ago, went to the Gallas of Mentshar, 

the Governor of whom was about to put them to prison; 

but as they feigned that the King, who had sent them, 

was drawing near, they were set at liberty — Two priests 

from Latibata in Lasta came begging for books, which 

I gave them. 



May 1 — Three monks from Lasta came to see me : 

they were great beggars, as monks in general are. 

Afterward, a man from Bulga came, begging for medi- 

cine. As the King to-day distributed much clothing 

among the poor, in memory of Tecla Haimanot, I took 

the opportunity of sho^ang my people how we are 

clothed with Christ's righteousness without our own 

merits. 



May 5 — I went this morning to see the Tabiban in 

their monastery, called ^lantck, in the forest of ]Iamrat, 

about two hours' walk from Ankobar. On arriving at 

the village, I asked for the Alaca, when, after a consi- 

derable time, an old man came trembling, and so much 







MONASTERY OF THE TABIBAN. 239 



afraid of me, that he was about to return immediately 

to his house. I told him, however, that I had not come 

with a bad design : he stayed a short time, but still 

trembling from hands to feet. He wore iron around 

his loins, and his whole body wore traces of self-tor- 

tm'e, of which he much boasted. I inquired for their 

books ; but those I saw were the same as the other 

Abyssinians possess ; namely, Organon INIariam, Melka 

Michael, and some parts of the Bible. All were written 

in iEthiopic. I endeavoured to ascertain whether they 

had any books in another language ; but they always 

said that they had not. They then introduced me to 

the room in which the congregations assemble, larger 

and better constructed than any I have seen of the 

kind in Abyssinia, though it is very dark. In this 

room, next to the walls, are raised banks of clay, upon 

which they sleep in an upright posture, being secured 

from falling by straps which are fastened to the walls. 

They were very proud of praising their religious rigi- 

dity, for which they do not come short of the other 

Abyssinians, even of their monks. But when I asked 

why they had recom'se to such austerity, they replied, 

in order that they might become righteous before God. 

I then told them about the only way of being justified 

before God, according to Rom. iii. Indeed this people 

endeavour to the utmost to enter into the kingdom of 

God only by their own performances. They said, that 

they fast every day, except on Saturday and Sunday ; 

and that they were pure in body and mind. They wear 







240 THE T.BIBAN. 



Matebs, like the Abyssinians, and are skilful in many 

things, working in iron and clay. On this account, 

the King is attached to them ; bvit the Abyssinians are 

in great fear of them, considering them sorcerers, and 

will neither enter their houses, nor eat with them. 

Their Alaca is feared so much, that they believe that if 

he cursed a person, the curse would be fulfilled in a short 

time. The Tabiban seem to me intentionally to en- 

tertain this fear, which protects them against the per- 

secutions of the Abyssinians, and prevents intercourse 

with those who have not the same ideas with them. 

Outwardly they arc Christians, as they go to the 

churches of the Christians ; their children are baptized, 

and they have the books of the Abyssinians ; but they 

are strongly suspected of being Jews. They told me 

that if I had come on Saturday, they would not have 

received me, as on that day they neither go out of their 

houses nor kindle fires. Their fathers, they said, came 

from Geshen, in the north of Shoa. I could not learn 

any thing further from them at this time. They set 

bread and Abyssinian beer before me, of which I was 

not afraid to partake, though my people would not. I 

promised to send them a copy of the New Testament. 

I went home, being grieved at not having found real 

Christians, as I was formerly inclined to think them. 

We seek in vain for a hidden church in Abyssinia. 



May 8, 1840 — All the people are going to the festi- 

val of Tecla Haimanot at Debra Libanos, to drink of 

the holy well of this Saint, which is said to cure sick 







VISIT TO DEBRA LIBANOS. 241 



men ou the fast days of this monk. I had resoh-ed to 

go and ascertain the truth of this report ; but the instruc- 

tion of my four boys detained me at Ankobar. 



May 9 — To-day the Shoans each kill a hen. They 

say that they thus prevent sickness or other calamity 

coming upon them or their country. The Mahome- 

dans do the same. They consider this as a means of re- 

conciliation with God. Such is the darkness of this 

people ! It is evident that they have adopted this custom 

fi'ora the Gallas. Such things always lead me to think 

that there is but little hope of a reformation of this 

fallen Church. However, the Lord can do above what 

we can understand at present. 



I finished to-day Geography with my boys ; but I 

intend repeating it. I have found the method useful, 

first to go over slightly a part of the book, and then 

more closely afterward, till it is impressed on the 

minds of my scholars. 



May 13 — This morning I set out from Ankobar for 

Angollala. The King had invited me to accompany 

him to Dcbra Libanos, a holy place of the Abyssinians, 

the distance of four days^ journey from Ankobar, in the 

north-west of Shoa. Tecla Haimanot, one of the most 

celebrated saints of Abyssinia, is said to have lived 

here. In the month of May the Abyssinians celebrate 

the death of this saint, at which time pilgrims from all 

parts of Shoa, and other provinces of Abyssinia, assem- 

ble at Debra Libanos to drink from the TabeJe, the so- 

called wonder-well of Tecla Haimanot, in order to be 



M 







24.2 VILLAGE OF KUM DENGAI. 



cured from sickness, and obtain forgiveness of sins for 

seven years. The King himself usually goes to protect 

the pilgrims against the inroads of the Gallas. I at 

first determined not to accept the invitation ; but as the 

King had sent an express, I thought it better not 

to refuse it, preferring however to go alone with 

my servants through the Galla Tribes of Abedtshoo and 

Gelan, in order to learn the correctness of the intelli- 

gence which I had received about the recent conversion 

of the Galla people in Shoa Meda. 



May 14, 1840 — This morning we passed the Tshatsha 

river, which separates the Christians and Gallas in a 

north-north-westerly direction for the distance of several 

days' journey. This river flows through a deep dale 

between two hills, which prevents the passage on the 

side of the Christians as well as of the Gallas. This 

natural obstacle may be the reason why the Gallas were 

formerly imable to destroy the whole Christian king- 

dom of Shoa, and why the King has built Angollala in 

the neighbourhood of the passage of this river, as he 

has thus the key to the Galla countries in the south and 

west of Shoa. Having marched the whole day through 

a plain land, in the evening we rested at Kum Dengai, 

the village in which Berkie, who assists me in my Galla 

translations, was born. His people received me very 

well. 



May 15 — This morning we left Kum Dengai, accom- 

panied by about two hundred persons. Several petty 

Governors of the Galla villages begged me tobaptize them. 







DESIRE FOR BAPTISM. 243 



I said that I could not do so until they had first been in- 

structed in the doctrines of the Christian Religion, and 

sincerely believed in the Lord Jesus Christ. It is a 

great pity that the Abyssinian priests do not require 

something more from the Gallas than being circumcised 

and baptized, wearing a string of silk, building churches, 

and making ofi'erings of grain to the priests. The 

King had imperatively required all the Gallas in the 

district of the Ayto Organon to become Christians ; 

and being therefore in great fear, they had been cir- 

cumcised, and built five ehm'chcs. These are the facts 

of the reported conversion of the Gallas in the pro- 

vince of Shoa Meda. A Galla Mission might be esta- 

blished there ; but nothing can be done without the 

consent of the King. I hope, however, that he will not 

prevent my going there. I spoke with these simple 

Gallas respecting the real conversion of their hearts to 

the living God. They were surprised at my not laying 

stress upon those things which the Abyssinian priests 

endeavour to point out as being indispensably necessary. 

At Kum Dengai, the Tshatsha, Beresa, and three other 

rivers join together in a deep dale, and take the common 

name of Adabai ; which, having taken up several other 

rivers and rivulets, is called Jamma, in the neighbour- 

hood of Sena Markos. 



May 16 — To-day we arrived at Sena Markos, where 

the whole north and west of Shoa is seen. In the north 

and west, a chain of high mountains extends, which 

protects this Christian kingdom against the inroads of 



M 2 







2-i4 VILLAGE OF SENA MARKOS. 



the Gallas. Sena INIarkos is the second holy place of 

the AbyssinianSj where Sena Markos, a great saint, is 

said to have lived in the time of Tccla Haimanot. The 

entrance to this village conducts over a steep rock, which 

only one ])erson can pass in descending. The village is 

surrounded in the east and north by a rock : it is a 

natural fortress. I asked after the Alaca of Sena 

Markos, who is also Alaca of Tegulet ; but the people 

told me that he was at Debra Libanos. I then drank 

of the holy water, which flows between a rock. I found 

it a little heavy. The whole nature of Sena Markos 

shows that it has been shaken very much by earthquakes, 

as immense rocks have fallen down into the valley in 

which the majestic river Jamma has its course to the 

Nile, which is only three days distant from Sena Markos. 

I observed the bed of the Nile between the mountains 

of Godtsham and the Dera Galla tribe. 



May 17, 1810 — To-day we passed the bed of a dry 

river, which Tecla Haimanot is said to have cursed, be- 

cause the water of it had carried away the cross which 

had fallen from the hands of the saint. As the cross was 

found at the mouth of the river, they say that, on this 

account, water can only be seen there. I told them, 

however, that the water flowed beneath the sand. It is 

beyond all belief how fond the Abyssinians are of stories 

respecting their saints. We marched for a long time 

tlirough a district which had been totally desolated by 

the Avars of King Asfa Wussen with the people of the 

provinces of Morabietie and Morat. These provinces 







ARRIVE AT DEBRA LIBANOS. 245 



were formerly governed by their own King. Their 

first King was Masamer ; the second, Abisag; thethird, 

Jesaias ; the foui*th, Zeddu ; and the fifth Hailu. Asfa 

"VVussen, King of Efat and Shoa, and the father of 

Sahela Selassieh, the present King of Shoa, vanquished 

King Zeddu; and Sahela Selassieh vanquished King 

Hailu, and united his kingdom to Shoa and Efat. The 

residence of these Kings was on the hill Joalo, at the 

foot of which we had rested the day before. The people 

of Morabietie and Morat are rude and proud. 



May 18 — Yesterday evening we rested in the neigh- 

boxirhood of Debra Libanos, and this morning we 

passed the river Sega-Wodam, which is the confluence 

of the Sana Boka, Sana Robi, and other rivers, which 

I passed in the Galla Tribes of Gelan and Woberi. 

The Sega-Wodam flows into the Nile. Pilgrims are 

advised by the priests, on passing this river, to bathe 

themselves in it before they drink of the holy water of 

Tecla Haimanot. Though I had warned my people 

against such a foolish practice, yet they cast themselves 

naked into the river. We then ascended the mountain 

on which Uebra Libanos is situated, when I learnt 

that the King was at the wells. I hastened therefore 

to meet him. After the return of the King to his 

tent, he conversed with me for a short time, and said, 

" You have done well in coming to see our miracles." 

I said, that I intended to go the next day and examine 

the quality of the water. 



May 19 — To-day I set out to visit the well of Tecla 







246 VISIT THE WELL OF TECLxi HAIMANOT. 



Haimanot. The water wliicli I took disagreed with 

me. I observed traces of iron in the stones. It is a 

mineral water ; but the superstition of the xVbyssinians, 

and the cunningness of the priests, have attributed to 

it miraculous powers. They drink the water from 

five to ten days. I was asked by many people, par- 

ticularly priests, what I thought of it. I said, that 

water of this kind also existed in my country ; that 

God had blessed this water with healing properties for 

the good of men ; and that therefore they should give 

the glory to God, and not to Tecla Haimanot. I then 

directed them to Christ. Beggary and monkery are very 

great at Debra Libanos, and I do not much like the 

place. I sent a copy of the ^thiopic New Testament 

to the Alaca of the Church of St. Marj^, which he 

accepted with much pleasure. The priests of this 

Church say, that, many years ago, a cross fell from 

heaven, which a monk having found gave it to their 

Church. AVhen the pilgrims have drank from the 

well of Tecla Haimanot, they go to this Church to kiss 

the cross. Debra Libanos is a natural fortress, and 

cannot be taken without European arms. The village 

is not very large. 



May 21, 1840 — To-day the King went vAih. the pil- 

grims to the place where water flows out from the rocks. 

It is difficult to ascend this place. The King himself 

took some of the water in his own cup, and presented 

it to the people. Here they dug some mire, of a blue 

colour, and painted their faces in the form of a cross. 







RETURN TO ANKOBAR. 217 



believing that this will prevent sickness. There is a 

tree here which is spht, through which they say Tecla 

Haimanot saved himself on the inroad of the Gallas ; 

but I told them that at the time of Tecla Haimanot 

the Gallas were not known in Abyssinia. The King 

haing performed this ceremony, gave orders to return 

to Augollala. We marched first westward to the 

mountains of Mugher, and then through the Tribes 

of Gullale, Tshidda, AVoberi, Gelan, and Abedtshoo, 

arriving at Augollala on the 26th of May. 



May 27 — To-day I arrived at Ankobar. I received 

the painful news, that ]Ir. Kielmaier, a German officer 

and friend of mine, had died on the road ; and that his 

servant, Husseui, or Samuel Georgis, as he was called 

by the Rev. W. Kruse, who baptized him at Cairo, 

was on the way, having with him his master's luggage. 



May 28 — To-day Ibrahim, the servant of Mr. 

Airston, whose death I mentioned on the 14th of 

March, died in consequence of hectic fever. He was 

interred in a place called Kobastle, in the lower part 

of Ankobar, where ]Mahomedans are usually buried. 

I with my servant and the Armenian Pietros attended 

the funeral. The body was covered with a white 

Abyssinian cloth, and carried on a barrow to the 

grave, which was dug in the form usual witli the 

Christians, no Mahomedans being at hand to make it 

according to their custom. It was about three feet 

deep, and very narrow ; so that there was scarcely room 

for the body. Wood was then placed uj)on the corpse. 







248 COUNTRY OF CAMBAT. 



upon which they put earth and stones ; so that the 

rain shoukl not penetrate, nor hyaenas be able to un- 

cover the grave. The effects of the deceased were then 

taken an account of by the King's people, and taken into 

his magazine. The people who took care of Ibrahim 

during his sickness did not receive any portion of his 

property. 



May 30, 1840 — A priest of Gurague came to see me. 

He said that he had been in Cambat ; that the pre- 

sent King, a good old man, was called Degoie ; that 

the capital city was called Karemsa, situated on a 

mountain ; that this kingdom is not very large ; and that 

there are only fifteen churches, but no priests. Cam- 

bat is distant from Gurague only six days journey. 



In the evening, Debtera Habta Selassieh came, 

begging me to teach him the Hebrew Language before 

he learnt the Greek, which he had begun. As the 

Hebrew has a greater affinity to the Abyssinian lan- 

guages, I thought that he would soon advance in the 

Hebrew, and therefore I complied with his request. 



June 1 — Samuel Georgis arrived to-day at Farri, 

and confirmed the news which I had before received 

of his master's death. I took to-day a fifth boy into 

my house, who wished to be instructed by me. His 

name is Himtza Roophael, a native of Dima, in Godt- 

sham. He was with Ibrahim, whose death I have 

before mentioned. In the evening I began Hebrew 

with Habta Selassieh. 



June 2 — I began Bible history with my boys. "With 







COURSE OF INSTRUCTION. 249 



regard to other branches of knowledge, I think it 

better at first to restrict myself to geographj% uni- 

versal, and natiu'al history. I consider biblical in- 

struction as the principal part. In the morning and 

evening I have service with the boys. Besides which 

I intend to preach a sermon every Lord's day to the 

people of my house, but without excluding others 

who may wash to hear me. The Lord be praised 

for the gracious assistance which He has hitherto 

given me ! 



Ju7ie 8 — I was called by the King to Angollala, 

where I met with Samuel Georgis. The King asked 

me about the luggage of Ibrahim, as he had not 

received the whole of it. I replied, that as Ibrahim 

was not in my house, I could not tell who had taken 

his property. He then said, " I know that you have 

not taken anything; but the two monks and other 

people who were with Ibrahim in the same house 

have stolen what belonged to me. I shall make them 

swear before the priests." I said, that the monks 

would not care for that, as they had told me that if 

they should be excommunicated in Shoa, they would 

go to Cairo, where the Coptic Patriarch would dis- 

annul the excommunication. 



June 13 — After returning from Angollala, I arranged 

the lessons with my boys in the following manner. 

In the forenoon, morning prayer, reading of the Bible 

and exposition, writing, and biblical narrations. In 

the afternoon, reading of the Bible, biblical doctrines 

M 5 







250 LETTER FROM THE KING 



in a systematic manner, geography, and imiversal his- 

tory. Service in the evening. 



June 20, 1840 — I have been unwell for the last three 

days. My sickness began with fever and swelling in 

my neck. My people believed that I had got what 

they call " Lagheda-sickness," or swelling of the ton- 

sils, and were afraid that I should die. They said, that 

the Abyssinians generally cut off the swollen parts; 

and that if they did not do this, there was no hope of 

recovery. Tliinking that this operation might be of 

use, I did not refuse it j but when they failed in remov- 

ing the swelling, I requested them to leave me, telling 

them that I knew what was best myself. Then they 

spoke about bad spirits, which they said would kill me 

if I did not follow their advice. In the evening I was 

much better. 



Jime 22 — To-day, with the Lord's gracious assis- 

tance, I was able to perform my ordinary business. 



June 27 — The King having returned from his expe- 

dition against the Sirto Gallas in the south of Shoa, I 

was called by him to Angollala with Samuel Georgis. 



June 28 — The King spoke with me about the Letter 

which he intended to write to India. The Letter, 

which he ordered me to translate into the English Lan- 

guage, iTins thus : — 



"May this Letter, which is sent by Sahela Selassieh, 

the King of Shoa and Efat, of Gurague and of the 

Galla nation, come to the great English Company in 

India. Are you well ? I am quite well. About your 







TO THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY. 251 



happiness, I liave been informed by your countrymen ; 

and, as I heard of your kindness toward all men, I was 

much rejoiced, and resolved upon making friendship 

with you. WTiether my person is bad or good, you 

will have heard from your countrymen, who have been 

in my country. I wish very much that it may please 

you to make friendship with me. God has given me 

a good and large kingdom ; but arts and sciences have 

not yet come to my country, as they have to yours. 

May it therefore please you to assist me, particularly 

in sending guns, cannon, and other things, which I 

have not in my country. I do not state how much you 

shall send me. You may act according to your love 

and kindness, which are known everywhere. As to 

myself, I am ready to send to yovi things which are not 

in your country. You may please to tell me what you 

wish, and I shall send it to you. The reason that I 

did not send it to you at present, is, that I did not 

know completely what you wish from me. I have sent 

to you two horses, having understood that you like 

them. This may be considered as a sign of friendship. 

I do not think that it is a fit present to you ; but you 

may consider it as the beginning of my love toward 

you, and of my friendship with you." 



A similar letter was written to C apt. Haines at Aden, 

accompanied by a present of a horse and mule, a gas- 

sela skin, and an Abyssinian cloth. 



June 29 — To-day I returned to Ankobar. On the 

way we were overtaken l>y heavy rain, which in a 







252 INSTANCE OF THE 



short time swelled tlie rivulets so much, that one of my 

servants, who was carrying my provisions and kitchen 

vessels, was carried away by the stream, and would 

have been lost if he had not seized a large stone which 

was in the middle of the water. All the luggage, 

however, which he had with him was lost. 



July 6, 184'0' — Samuel Georgis set out from Ankobar 

to go to Aden. I shall be very glad if his mission proves 

successful, as otherwise I am afraid that the King will 

become cold toward me and all Europeans. 



Juli/ 14 — In my sermon to-day, I explained to my 

people what was the divine image of Adam, and what 

was his fall. In the afternoon, 1 examined my boys 

about my morning sermon. Afterward, we read the 

history of Balaam. I found much consolation in the 

words : — How shall I curse, ivhom God hath ?wt 

cursed ? 



July 21 — I preached about the new birth, according 

to John iii. 6. Two Debteras were with us. Afterward, 

I spoke with them about their neglecting the instruc- 

tion of their people. Debtera AVorknech said that the 

priests themselves were not instructed, and gave me the 

following instance of their ignorance. Some years ago, 

the Gallas on the Nile made an inroad into Godtsham, 

when a Galla took from the house of a Christian the 

Books of Samuel and the Kings in iEthiopic. Some 

time afterward the King of Shoa fell upon these Gallas, 

and a Christian soldier from Bulga found the books in 

the house of a Galla, and took them to Bulga, when 







IGNORANCE OF THE PRIESTS. 253 



he showed them to his priests, who considering them 

conjm-ing-books, would not touch them. Afterward, 

Worknech went to Bulga, and knowing their bibhcal 

contents, bought them for three pieces of salt, though 

the usual price is three dollars. 



July22 — I called in the morning upon Alaca AYolda 

Hanna, who always asks me about such passages of 

the Bible as he does not well understand. Afterward, 

I received a friendly letter from Capt. Haines at Aden, 

by the arrival of Ali Arab, who brought mc some 

money. The collector of taxes had taken from the 

money thirty-three dollars; but the King returned 

them to me, saying, that he did not levy custom upon 

my money. My people advised me to offer the thirty- 

three dollars to the King; but I said that I never 

would make a present in money, as it would be of bad 

consequences in future; and besides I had no money 

to spare. 



July 28 — In my sermon to-day I instructed my 

people about the real nature of true repentance, accor- 

ding to Joel ii. 



July 29 — In translating Matt, xix., my Galla in- 

formed me that the Gallas took the wife of a deceased 

brother. A Dcbtera from Mantek, the monastery of 

the Tabiban, came to see me. He praised much their 

lashing themselves with thorns at appointed times, 

washing their feet till they become white, and their 

old Alaca. I spoke with him about the Pharisee and 

publican, Luke xviii. 







254 MONASTERY OP MAMRAT. 



August 4), 1840 — To-day Guebra Georgis, whom 

I had not seen for more than a month, came to see me. 

He said, that he had been in a monastery called Mamrat 

(mother of mercy,) at the foot of a high mountain, 

and had read the whole New Testament with three 

monks, who had begged him to teach them Amharic, 

As the sister of his father had been disgraced by the 

King, she went to the monks of this monastery, in 

order by their assistance to be reconciled to the King. 

Guebra accompanied her to the monastery. He told 

me that these monks fed a number of sick and poor 

people at the expense of the monastery. This is the 

first example of the kind I have heard of in Shoa. 

I have frequently thought of establishing a similar insti- 

tution, in which I might supply poor people not only 

with bread for the body, but more particularly with the 

bread of life. I have calculated that the expenses would 

be about twenty-five to thirty dollars for ten persons. 

Indeed such an institution would highly recommend 

our work in the eyes of the Shoans, and the King in par- 

ticular. But such an institution could not be establish- 

ed without the consent of the King, as a separate 

building would be requisite ; but I do not think that 

he would refuse a petition to do good to the poor people, 

to whom he pays attention in many respects. 



August 5 — ^liile I was instructing my boys, a monk 

came begging me for a rosary, having lost his own. I 

said, that I had none, and was not in want of any, as 

I was ordered by the Word of God to pray continually. 







CHILDREN ORDERED TO FAST. 255 



SO that I could not count my prayers ; that such a con- 

tinual praying intercourse with the Lord was the ope- 

ration of the Holy S})irit, and could not be bought ; 

and that he should pray for this Holy Spirit, and offer 

his whole heart to Him, and then he would not want 

such a useless thing. The monk went away gi'ieved at 

not being able to say over his beads. 



August 6 — To-day the sixteen days' fast of the Abys- 

sinians begin, in memory of the pretended ascension 

of St. Mary. The King went to Machal Wans, to 

keep there a sti'ong fast, which is prescribed by the 

Church at this time. Children also are commanded to 

fast, on which account I spoke to my boys respecting 

fasting. As children also receive the Sacrament at this 

time, I instructed them about this holy mystery, ac- 

cording to Matt. xxvi. 27, and 1 Cor. xi. ; and parti- 

cularly endeavoured to expose their error respecting 

this sacrament, showing them from 1 Cor. xi. 29 — 31 

that an unholy reception of it will produce sickness, 

and in general a judgment on body and mind. 



August 1 1 — A man from Debra Bcrhan came, 

begging for an iEthiopic New Testament. I said, that 

I had given away all that I possessed. I bought a 

beautiful skin of a red cow for six pieces of salt. The 

Shoans, particularly the people of Morat, are skilful in 

pre])aring skins. They take the bark of a tree, called 

(juffu, and pulverize it ; then they put it with the skin 

into water for about eight days, after which tlie skin is 







256 CUSTOMS OF THE GALLAS. 



taken out, rubbed with the juice of lemons, and 

dried in the sun. 



My Galla made me acquainted with some other cus- 

toms of his people. Every eight years, he said, they 

appoint a Heiu, or general Governor, a man who has 

the reputation of being a warrior and public speaker, 

who passes through the whole tribe, hearing the com- 

plaints of the oppressed, and deciding in cases of jus- 

tice. He also decides in matters of war and peace. 

Wherever he goes, he is respected, and supplied with all 

that he wants. When the eight years have expired, he 

is called Gedamotsh, a repeated Governor. He cannot 

be chosen the second time. In the south of Shoa to 

the Hawash, three Heius are appointed. If a Galla 

likes a stranger, he makes him his Mogasa, or favourite, 

declaring before the Abadula, the governor of a small 

district, that he has made him his friend, and that no 

man should touch him. This ceremony is performed 

before the whole people, and sacrifices are offered. If 

any one should kill or ofi'end the Mogasa, he is obliged 

to pay 100 kum or 100 oxen, which is the price paid 

by a murderer. If you have become the Mogasa of a 

Galla, you can go through the whole tribe ; but if you 

have not, the Gallas would kill you immediately. I do 

not doubt that Tshara, the Governor of Mulofalada, 

would give me this privilege if I should go to his 

country. 



August 13, 1840 — I called upon Alaca Wolda Hanna, 

who wished to study the Hebrew language, having 







KINGDOM OF WOLAMO. 257 



been informed of Habta Selassieh's having advanced in 

this study in a short time. Thus I have two scholars in 

Hebrew. 



August 17 — The father of the present King of Shoa 

is said to have foretold, in consequence of a dream^ that 

at the time of his son, Sahela Sclassieh, red people, (thus 

white people are called by the Abyssinian s) would come 

and teach all arts and wisdom. As several Whites have 

lately arrived in Shoa, the people begin to think that 

this prophesy is about to be accomplished. 



A slave from Wolamo, in the south of Cambat, gave 

me some information respecting his country. Wolamo 

is a small kingdom inhabited by Christians, who are 

^ithout priests. The capital city is called Wofana, and 

a large river called Uma, of which I had heard before, 

flows through the country. The people are circumcised, 

but do not keep fasts, and have but few festivals in the 

course of the year. A slave is bought for twenty pieces 

of salt. The neighbouring Galla tribes, are Kulla, 

Worata, and Limo. 



As the above mentioned slave had been first sold to 

Caffa, and thinking that he would be able to give me 

some information about this country, I asked him some 

questions. The King of CafFa is a warrior, and makes 

war with all his neighbours. In the south of Caffa 

there is a black people, called Golda, who go nearly 

naked. Tliey do not eat the flesh of cows, but only 

nuikc use of the milk. Another people of this kind 

are called Doko, who are at war with Caffa. The capital 







358 NOTICES RESPECTING 



cities of Caffa are Dentsli and Bonga. A great river, 

called Kibbe, flows from Caffa to the Nile, but others 

say to the south. Probably it may be the Quilimance, 

which flows into the Indian Ocean at the higher parts 

of the Melinde. The people of Caffa manufacture good 

cloth. A good piece is bought for six pieces of salt. 

The currency of Caffa consists in pieces of salt ; silver 

money not being known. The cm-rency of Wolamo 

is also in salt, which they get from the Arroosi Gallas. 



August 18, 1840 — I spoke in my sermon about real 

faith, according to 1 John v. I was told that Alaca 

Wolda Hannahad taken my Hebrew Bible to his church, 

and recommended the study of Hebrew. 



August 30 — A slave from Sentshiro gave me some 

information respecting his country. The present King, 

Amo, is a warrior, and likes all people of this kind. It 

seems to me that the people of Sentshiro were formerly 

Christians, because they have circumcision and some 

Christian feasts ; but otherwise they do not appear to 

know any thing about Christianity. The capital city is 

called Anger. The Sentshii'os, like the Gallas, do not eat 

hens. Goats also are not eaten. The Guraguean mer- 

chants go to Sentshiro, and receive Dirgo (maintenance) 

from the King till they return to then* country. Women 

only are sold as slaves to other countries : male slaves 

from Sentshiro are obtained by other nations by means 

of war. The reason why females only are sold, is 

stated to be this — ]Iany ages ago, the King of Sent- 

shiro commanded a man of quality to slaughter his 







THE COUNTRY OF SENTSHIRO. 259 



wife, as the King needed her as a medicine. The 

man went honie^ but did not venture to kill his wife, 

though he found her asleej). The King then ordered 

the wife to kill her husband, which she did ; and on ac- 

count of this female cruelty, the custom arose of selling 

only women to other countries. 



There are people in Sentshiro who have no other 

duties to pay than to deliver their first-born sons to the 

king, who appoints these unfortunate creatures for 

sacrifices. The reason of this barbarity is stated to be 

this — Formerly a high pillar of iron stood in the neigh- 

bourhood of the capital city, and as long as this column 

existed, the people of Sentshiro had neither summer nor 

winter, but had rain the whole year, and the fruits did 

not come to maturity. The king having asked his 

learned men what should be done in order to secure the 

seasons of summer and winter, they cut downi the pillar 

nearly to the ground, when the rain decreased, and the 

fruits ripened. But they advised the King that it was 

necessary, in order to prevent a return of the former 

confusion, always to sacrifice a number of first-born 

sons to the Deity. A part of the pillar is still to be 

seen, as I learned from my informant. 



This evening one of the King's slaves, who, with her 

husband, resides in the fore part of my house, having 

been delivered of a child, the house has become unclean 

for twenty days, and whoever enters it, is considered 

unclean and cannot go to church, nor take the; Holy 

Sujjper. Thus are the Abyssiniaus insnarcdwith num- 







260 ABYSSINIANS ENSLAVED BY CEREMOiNIES. 



berless forms and ceremonies — fetters of self-righteous- 

ness ; lost in darkness^ and separated from the life of 

God. How is it then to be expected that they should 

enlighten the surrounding heathens. May the Lord^ 

our faithful God, soon cause His blessed light to shine 

upon ^Ethiopia and the numerous tribes of heathens of 

central Africa, that His holy Name, in these strong 

holds of darkness and death, may alone be praised for 

ever and ever ! 







PART III. 



JOURNEY FROM ANKOBAR TO MASSOWAH. 



CHAPTER I. 







MOTIVES FOR UNDERTAKING THE JOURNEY— DEPARTURE FROM ANKO- 

BAR— GOOD FEELING MANIFESTED BY THE PEOPLE TOWARD MR. 

KRAPF — ARRIVE AT ANGOLLALA — INTERVIEW WITH THE KING -DIS- 

TRIBUTION OF SCRIPTURES — FAREWELL VISIT TO THE KING — LEAVE 

ANGOLLALA, AND ARRIVE AT DEBRA BERHAN— TRADITIONS RESPECT- 

ING IT — POPULATION — ARRIVE AT BOLLO WORKIE — CELEBRATED MAR- 

KET HELD HERE — ARTICLES OF TRADE— ORIGIN OF THE NAME BOLLO 

WORKIE — SUPERSTITIOUS OPINIONS OF THE ABYSSINIANS — ARRIVE AT 

THE VILLAGE OF LOGHEITA — WELL RECEIVED BY THE GOVERNOR — 

WONASTERV OF SAINT ABBO — LEAVE LOGHEITA — CONVERSATION WITH 

A PRIEST — ENQUIRIES RESPECTING THE ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS — 

GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISION OF THE DIFFERENT PROVINCES OF SHOA — 

ARRIVE AT ZALLA DENGAI — HOSPITABLE RECEPTION BY ZENAMA 

WORK, THE MOTHER OF THE KING OF SHOA — ORIGIN OF THE NAME 

ZALLA DENGAI — DEPARTURE FROM ZALLA DENGAI — CROSS THE RIVER 

MOFER— ENTER THE PROVINCE OF MANS — NOTICES OF ITS FORMER 

RULERS — CHARACTER OF THE MANSIANS — SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS OF 

jIANS — LEAVE WOKAN, AND ENTER THE DISTRICT OF LALO — TRADI- 

TION RESPECTING THE LAKE ALOBAR — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF 

AMAD- WASHA— DISTRIBUTION OF AMHARIC SCRIPTURES— LEAVE 

AMAD — WASHA — SUPERSTITION OF THE PEOPLE — ARRIVE AT DAIR, 

THE FRONTIER OF SHOA — VISIT' THE GOVERNOR. 



Ankobar, March 10, 181.2 — I h.vd for some time 







26.2 MOTIVES FOR THE JOURNEY. 



past been anxiously looking forward to a journey to the 

sea coast. The obstacles which my dear Brethren, 

Messrs. MuUer and Muhleisen, who had been sent out 

by the Committee to assist the Shoa INIission, had met 

at Tadjm'ra, regarding their proceeding to Shoa, had 

been a matter of sorrow to me, and called forth such 

endeavours on my part as might enable them to prose- 

cute their way to Shoa, and commence their Missionary 

labours in that country. A speedy journey to the sea 

coast was considered the best step which I could take 

to facilitate their proceeding to Shoa ; a step which had 

been recommended to me by the Committee in a Letter 

which had informed me of the departure of the Breth- 

ren from Europe. 



Desirable, however, as this step would have been on 

my part, yet the precarious situation of our Mission in 

Shoa, prevented me for a considerable time from taking 

a step which would undoubtedly prove beneficial to my 

Brethren on the coast. Her Majesty's Embassy arrived 

at the Court of Shoa with most valuable tokens of friend- 

ship to the King of Shoa. The principal object of this 

Embassy was to form a Treaty of amity and commerce 

with his Shoan Majesty. A Treaty of this nature was 

of course of great importance to the external existence 

of our Mission, because if once concluded by the Sove- 

reigns of Great Britain and Shoa, it woidd include a 

footing for British subjects in the dominions of Shoa. 

But the question was, whether the King, although he 

had first expressed his desire to join in friendship with 







TREATY WITH THE KING OF SHOA. 2G3 



Her Majesty's Government, could be persuaded to sub- 

scribe to tlie terms of a Treaty, which would render this 

footing undoubted and uncontested. So long as his 

Shoan jNIajesty's sentiments toward Great Britain was 

not known, my external situation was also doubtful in 

many respects ; and had his Majesty refused to enter 

into any connexion with the British, the increase of 

Missionary labourers in Shoa would not have been ad- 

visable. Thus my departure for the coast was pro- 

tracted by circumstances which it was not in my power 

to remove, although I did all that I could to forward 

the Government's object whenever an opportimity was 

presented to me. 



This state of uncertainty with regard to his Shoan 

JNIajesty's sentiments toward Great Britain, was however 

removed by the terms of a Treaty which Her Majesty's 

Representative, Capt. C. W. Harris, concluded with 

the King of Shoa on the 16th of Nov. 1841, after he 

had displayed great perseverance, prudence, and firm- 

ness, in overcoming difficulties, which will honour him 

for ever in the annals of Shoa. 



After this Treaty had been signed and sealed by his 

Shoan iMajesty and Her Majesty's Ambassador in Shoa, 

many douljtful questions with regard to my own situa- 

tion, as well as that of oiu- Mission, were removed ; and 

my desire of proceeding to the coast was anew excited 

in my mind, as the increase of Europeans in the country 

in general, and of Missionaries in particular, could not 

now be (jbjected to by his Shoan Majesty, after having 







264 PROPOSED ROLTE. 



agreed in the treaty, " that British subjects should not 

be prevented nor molested in proceeding to Shoa, in 

their respective business in the country, and their move- 

ments over the country and beyond." 



^"Miile engaged in thinking of my projected journey 

to the coast, I received the intelligence, that our Breth- 

ren had made a second attempt to penetrate into Shoa, 

but with the same disappointment as before. At the 

same time, I received news of my own private matters 

in Germany, which contributed to my undertaking the 

projected journey. But as the arrangement of my pri- 

vate matters woidd require time in Em'ope, and as 

therefore a speedy arrival on the coast was not indis- 

pensably necessary, I resolved upon taking my road to 

the coast of Massowah, particularly as many important 

objects might be attained by so doing. As a matter of 

great importance appeared to me, the personal acquaint- 

ance of the new Abuna, the head of the Abyssinian 

Church. I was also desirous of taking a personal view 

of the state of things in Tigre ; many favourable re- 

ports regarding our Mission there having been carried 

to Shoa. And lastly, I wished to know, whether the 

road from Shoa to Massowah was not practicable, in 

case any accident should happen by which the route of 

Tadjurra might be obstructed. 



]My departure from Ankobar was appointed to take 

place to-day. Having last night prepared the members 

of my establishment for my approaching departure, by 

addressing them from the words of our Saviour in 







DEPARTURE FROxM AXKOBAR. 265 



John xiv. — and having recommended^ in fervent prayer, 

myself, my work, and all my future proceedings, to the 

almighty care of the God of Israel — I set out from 

Ankobar about four o^clock in the morning, before many 

people could assemble to trouble me w-ith vain lamenta- 

tions, and superstitious prophecies as to the issue of my 

long journey. But although I endeavoured to leave 

the capital before the people should be up and hear of 

my departm'e, yet a considerable body of men pm'sued 

me as far as the Chacka Mountain, the fatiguing 

ascent of which prevented them from making any 

further attempt to overtake me. They returned to 

Ankobar with great lamentations, and set the whole 

town in motion with their weeping, as I afterward un- 

derstood from people who took the trouble to follow me 

to Angollala. 



I should have remained to receive the evidence of the 

public and general feelings of esteem which the inha- 

bitants of Ankobar seemed to express toward me, had I 

not been aware, from other occasions of a similar nature, 

of the impossibility of speaking a word of edification 

to the excited multitudes ; and had I not been afraid of 

jealousy rising in the mind of the influential people 

of Ankobar, who had neer before seen a stranger so 

nmch honoured by their countrymen. Besides, I was 

well aware of the boisterous manner in which beggars 

of all kinds would have annoyed and molested me, qua- 

lifying my grateful feelings in the remembrance of a 

jjlace, where my Heavenly Father had given me so many 



N 







266 ARRIVE AT ANGOLLALA. 



proofs of grace and mercy during a residence of three 

yearSj and from which I humbly hope and beUeve that 

the seed of everlasting life will be carried to the remote 

and dark regions of Central Africa. 



Although I had obtained the King's permission to 

leave his country, yet I thought it prudent and proper 

to take leave of him again, and once more to express 

my acknowledgment of the kindness which I had ex- 

perienced from his Majesty for three years. As 

he was at Augollala, his favourite residence, I pro- 

ceeded to that place, where I arrived about mid-day, my 

people with the luggage being unable to keep pace with 

me. I intended to take with me as many copies of the 

iEthiopic and Amharic Scriptures as I could ; but to 

my grief I found that my beasts of bui'den could not 

carry the quantity of books which I had set apart for 

my journey. It must be remarked, that camels cannot 

be used in this part of Abyssinia, as the mountainous 

nature of the country, and its cold temperature, does 

not agree with an animal which seems to have been 

created for the particular benefit of plain and hot 

countries. 



His Shoan Majesty was informed of my arrival at 

Angollala by my Baldaraba (Introducer) Ayto Habti, 

great master of the Tabiban (mechanics), and royal 

physician in ordinary. His Majesty sent word that he 

was very busy in making preparations for his approach- 

ing expedition against the rebellious Galla tribe of 







INTERVIEW WITH THE KING. 267 



Yerrer ; and that he could not give me an audience 

until to-morrow. 



March W, 184^2 — Early this morning; my Baldaraba 

made his appearance, requestingmy immediate attendance 

at the palace. I found his Majesty talking with his offi- 

cers in the court-yard. As soon as he observed me, he 

ordered me to draw near; and took me to the eminence 

from whence he usually gives judgment, and frequently, 

also, an audience. Having inquired after my health, 

he repeated several times, " You should not leave me, 

my father, as I shall have no adviser when you are 

away.^' I answered, that the reasons which induced 

me to leave his country for a short time were very 

urgent, and partly intended for his owti benefit. — "Well, 

then,^' he said, " I will not prevent you from going ; 

but I '^ish you to reflect on every thing that you want 

for your journey, and communicate to me your wants ; 

because I ^^'ish you to make youi* journey as agi'eeable 

and short as possible." 



I therefore went home, in order to reflect on what I 

should require from his Majesty ; but I had no sooner 

retm-ned to my house, than A5i;o Habti appeared again, 

and informed me that his Majesty had taken a fancy to 

my beautiful rifle gun, presented to me by Capt. Haines; 

and that his Majesty had ordered him to express his 

wish that 1 would leave it with him before I departed. 

I replied, that I had formerly given several handsome 

presents to his Majesty, and could not therefore give 

any more ; that I wanted the gun for myself on my 



N 2 







268 COVETOUSNESS OF THE KING. 



dangerous journey ; and, besides, I could not part with 

a present whicli I had received from a friend whom I 

valued and respected. I hoped that this reply would 

induce his Majesty to desist from his desire for my 

rifle ; but far from giving up the matter, he carried it 

on so long, that I became tired and disgusted, and 

parted with the beautiful weapon. He sent me a dou- 

ble-barrel flint gun, but so miserably made that I would 

not look upon the messenger who brought it. This he 

requested me to accept instead of the rifle, which, if 

I should lose on the road, would make him very sorry. 

I sent word, that the desire of his Majesty for my 

rifle had made me very sad ; yea, angry with him, at 

the moment of my leaving his country ; that it was a 

bad practice, disgracing his name in my countiy, to 

deprive strangers of the very property which they con- 

sider most valuable ; and that it would be far better for a 

stranger not to bring Adth him any article of vakie to 

this country, as the people, and especially the king, 

would immediately deprive him of it by means of daily 

increasing petitions of the most annoying and unplea- 

sant kind. 



This strong language, which I was obhged to use, 

had an efi"ect, though only of a temporary nature. He 

sent another messenger, who informed me that the 

King begged me for Christ's and the GospeFs sake, 

not to mention in my country that the King of Shoa 

had endeavoured to deprive me of my property ; and 

that he had only advised me to leave the gun in his 







DISTRIBUTION OF SCRIPTURES. 2G9 



hands^ lest it might be lost on the road. At the same 

time the messenger hinted to me, that his Majesty had 

intended, if I had not left the country, to invest mc 

with a government. This grant of the royal favom-had 

been thought by the King as a suitable reward 

for the services which I had rendered him during three 

years, particularly since the arrival of the British Em- 

bassy. I answered, that if his jMajesty intended to 

honour me by giving me a government, I felt very 

grateful; but that I did not desire any temporal rank 

or power in his country, my only object being, of which 

he was well aware, to do good to himself and his sub- 

jects, by distributing the Word of God, and by teach- 

ing them the true and right way to their temporal and 

eternal happiness. I also said, that I was quite con- 

tent with the external marks of distinction which the 

King had abeady given me. He had been pleased to 

give me the Shoan silver sword, which placed nie in the 

rank of Governors. 



I had frequent opportunities in the course of this 

day of distributing many copies of the Amharic and 

Ethiopia Scriptures, many Ecclesiastics and other great 

people having flocked to Angollala to join the King on 

his expedition against the Yerrer tribe in the south of 

Shoa. I also again met the messenger of the Abuna 

to the King of Shoa, who was about returning to Gon- 

dar with an answer from his ]Iajesty. I agreed with 

the messenger, that as soon as I should have taken my 

final leave of the King, I would hasten my march and 







270 FAREWELL VISIT 



join liim on the road, and go with him to his master at 

Gondar, for whom he had received a Letter and a 

few valuable presents from the British Ambassador, as 

tokens of friendship and respect to the greatest Prelate 

of Abyssinia. I had also given him a copy of the 

iEthiopic New Testament, with a letter, which I had 

written in case I should not be able to go with him. 

But this scheme of my joining the man was afterward, 

from many causes, entirely frustrated. 



All the visitors having withdrawn, I passed the even- 

ing alone, being engaged in thoughts and reflections on 

my approaching long and important journey. Know- 

ing that I was going to countries never before resorted 

to by Europeans, and thinking that unusual dangers 

and hardships would be connected with such a journey, 

I threw myself into the hands of Almighty God, who 

alone could bring my journey to a happy issue, although 

1 was provided with every human means requisite for 

such a hazardous imdertaking. 



March 13, 1842 — After day break a signal was given 

for the departure of his Majesty on his expedition. I 

therefore had no time to lose in acquainting his Majesty 

with my wants, and to take final leave of him. On 

being introduced to him, he repeatedly expressed his 

regret at my leaving him, as he would then have no 

one to advise with in his proceedings with the British 

Embassy. I replied, that I felt grateful for the confi- 

dence he had placed in me ; and that, please God, I 

would make haste on my journey, so as to be able to 







TO THE KING. 271 



return in October or November. IVitli regard to 

the British Embassy, I acUised him to give decided 

marks of distinction to the Representative of Her Ma- 

jesty, and to listen to all his requests and counsels, as 

they would prove most useful and beneficial to him. 



He then asked about my wants for the jom'ney. I 

only requested a good strong mule, and a man to in- 

troduce me to the Governors as far as his influence ex- 

tended on the road to Gondar. Both requests were 

immediately granted : whereupon he begged me for a 

blessing, which I gave him ; praying that God the 

Almighty King of kings would so dispose his heart, 

that he might seek, before all, the welfare of his own 

soul and the souls of his subjects ; and then, that He 

would inchne him to attempt such temporal improve- 

ments as might become subservient to the eternal hap- 

piness of his people. When I had ended, his Majesty 

said, " Amen ! May God reward you !" I then walked 

away, and he set off on his expedition. 



Having returned to my house, I had once more to 

take leave of those two dear friends whose kindness 

for more than eight months had rendered my stay in 

Shoa agreeable. These friends were. His Excellency 

the British Ambassador, Capt. C. W. Harris, and his 

assistant officer, Capt. D. Graham. I had taken leave 

of the other members of the Embassy at Ankobar the 

day before yesterday. We bid farewell with mutual 

feelings of gratitude for the kindness and assistance 

which we had rendered each other in a foreign and 

uncivilized country. 







272 DEBRA BERHAN. 



Having settled every thing necessary, I set out from 

Angollala about ten o'clock, moving ENE. toward 

Debra Berlian, the King's third favourite place of re- 

sidence, about seven miles distant from Angollala. The 

road led over a level country, which is peculiar to the 

territories of the Galla tribes in the south of Shoa, as 

I have remarked in my former descriptions of the Galla 

countries. Small hills generally rise at the extremi- 

ties of these large plains, which are inhabited by im- 

mense herds of cattle ; while the excellent soil of the 

hills is used for cultivating such articles as are requisite 

for the subsistence of man. 



Debra Berhan received its name at the time of Zara- 

Jacob, who is also called Constantine, and who reigned 

over Abyssinia from between a.d. 1430 and 1460. 

When persecuted by the Adels, he took flight to the 

large forest at that time existing on the place where the 

village of Debra Berhan is now built. Being at a loss 

concerning an outlet for his escape, he saw a light 

from heaven showing him a path ; and from this occur- 

ence he called the place Debra Berhan ; i. e. " Hill of 

light." 



This fabulous derivation of the name of Debra Ber- 

han, which was given me by a native, differs some- 

what from another tradition which was communicated 

to me by Habta INIichael, his Majesty's principal 

scribe, who stated, that it was written in the famous 

book " Taamera Mariam" — Miracles of the Holy 

Virgin — that, at the time of Zara-Jacob, a blind priest 







CONTROVERSIES IN THE SHOAN CHURCH. 273 



defended the doctrine which denies the same worship 

to the Virgin as the Son ; that the party of the priests 

who worshipped Mary as the Son, killed the blind 

priest ; but in sign of his innocency, and his orthodox 

belief, a heavenly light had been seen for thirteen days 

in all the tents of the Emperor and his generals ; and 

that on this account the place had been denominated 

" Hill of Kght." 



As I would not halt at Debra Berhan, I sent my 

compliments to the Alaca of the Church of the Holy 

Trinity. I also sent him a copy of the iEthiopic New 

Testament. He thankfully acknowledged the receipt, 

and wished me a happy journey. He is one of the 

principal leaders of the party in Shoa which denies 

that the human soul has any knowledge in the womb — 

that the Holy Virgin did not die a victim of mankind, 

and should not be worshipped like the Son — and that 

the Son does not praise the Father in His state of ex- 

altation. These are at present the principal Shoan con- 

troversies, which ran so high, that his Majesty thought 

it necessary to interfere, and decide the dispute by his 

royal authority in favour of those who teach the con- 

trary, and who prefer their own conceptions to the 

standard of the Bible. The latter having got the as- 

cendancy in the Shoan Church, expelled the others from 

their ecclesiastical functions. These, however, applied 

to the new Abuna, Abba Salama, who decided in their 

favour, and ordered the King of Shoa to restore tliem 

to their office 3 but the King has not yet obeyed, and 



N 5 







274 RIVER BERESA. 



will delay the matter till he is put by the Abuna to 

his last resource. 



Debra Berhau, as I have already stated, is one of the 

favourite places of the King of Shoa, as the plain land 

around is suitable to his desire of daily gallopping his 

favourite horses^ and also for hunting, although there 

is but little game around. The place answers well, too, 

for the number of horses, mules, and cattle, which 

always follow the royal encampments. Debra Berhan 

was conquered by the father of Sahela Selassieh ; but 

settled and secured against the inroads of the Gallas 

by Menelek, which is the family name of Sahela Selas- 

sieh, this being his Christian name. 



Debra Berhan contains a few hundred houses, with 

about a thousand inhabitants. In the south of the 

village the river Beresa runs to the north-west, forming 

a terrace of high cataracts, at a distance of about three 

miles from the village. These cataracts afford one of 

the most beautiful sights to be seen in Shoa. The river 

having first run over the cataracts is carried into a deep 

basin, the banks of which are extremely steep and high. 

There is plenty of wood around this basin. The wood 

is royal priilege, and fifty slaves are daily employed in 

providing wood for his Majesty when he resides at 

Debra Berhan. 



About one o'clock we passed a place, called Bollo 

Workie, where one of the most celebrated markets is 

held on Saturday. It is particularly suitable for buying 

horses, donkeys, cattle, and grain, these articles being 







MARKET OF BOLLO AVORKIE. 275 



supplied in abundance by the Galla tribes in the neigh- 

bourhood of Angollala. But money in coin is not 

much used in this market, as the Gallas, being content 

with barter, or at least salt-pieces, which pass as money, 

still have a great aversion to silver money. A dollar 

at Bollo Workie is exchanged for sixteen or eighteen 

pieces of salt ; and consequently for a few pieces less 

than at the market of Alio Amba in the east of Anko- 

bar. The King receives considerable sums from the 

duties paid on articles at the market of Bollo Workie. 

Each article is charged according to its value ; as, for 

instance, he who buys a horse, has to pay half a piece 

of salt to the King. 



The origin of the name of Bollo Workie is undoub- 

tedly from the Galla language, in which Bollo means 

"hole or cave;" and Workie "gold;" conse- 

quently, " cave of gold." This name agrees with the 

general belief and tradition of the Shoans, that in the 

caves at Bollo Workie immense treasm-es of gold have 

been concealed since the times of the ancient Emperors 

of Abyssinia. The Shoans also say, that in one of the 

caves there is a deep lake, which nobody will venture to 

cross, although the gold is concealed beyond it. In 

this lake, according to the general belief of the Abys- 

sinians, devils reside. One day, they say, a splendid 

mule, oiTiamented with gold, and attended by a cat, 

came out from the cave ; but soon disappeared. I 

have no doubt that the market people, who are fond of 

relating and hearing stories for their amusement on 







276 PASTURAGE FOR THE KING's CATTLE. 



their long journey, have invented this tale. But while 

the common people have invented this story, the priests, 

who, as may be expected, are not behind in having 

their share in all cases of superstition, discovered a 

Tabot, or Holy Ark, in the cave. It frequently hap- 

pens that the priests, in order to defend a favourite 

idea, pretend to have discovered a Holy Ark in a cave 

in which they have found a piece of parchment, on 

which the Saint, to whom the Tabot is consecrated, 

has written that such or such a doctrine shall be ac- 

cepted or cursed. 'The Abyssinians are never at a loss 

in contriving lies when it suits their purpose. 



Bollo Workie, like Debra Berhan, was formerly in 

possession of the Gallas ; and Tenna Kallo, the Galla 

Chieftain of this district, is not yet forgotten by the 

Shoans, who well remember the number of their fa- 

thers who were killed by Tenna Kallo near Bollo Wor- 

kie and Debra Berhan. The river Beresa was at the 

time of Sahela Selassieh's father the real boundary, 

beyond which the Shoans durst not venture to go, 

without running the danger of being murdered by the 

Gallas, although most of the tribes near the Beresa 

river paid tribute to Shoa ; but the settled boundary 

was the Beresa, as is now the river Tchatsha in the 

south of xingollala. 



Bollo Workie is one of the King's principal pasturages 

for a part of his numerous cattle, in charge of herdmen 

which are called Abellam, from the Amharic verb 







SOURCE OF THE GONAGONIT. 277 



Abella — " he made eat up." His INIajesty has selected 

about twenty or thirty places of this kind in his king- 

dom. He sends to these places all the cattle which he 

receives as tribute, or captm-es on his expeditions 

against the Gallas. Such places as are known to 

me, are — Bollo Workie, Kollo-Berat, Sagalla, Tello- 

agger, Dembaro, Tchcraro, Gosh-meda, Wof-washa, 

Tora-mesk, Kamberrie, Mutti, Gogorre, Sankisa, 

Enghcrma, Dodotie, Arab-ledj, and Saramba. 



About three o'clock we passed a rivulet called Gona- 

gonit, which rises at the foot of the mountain "Wof- 

washa, which is a part of a range of movmtains run- 

ning from south and south-east, to north and 

north-east. It begins in Bulga, and - runs through 

the east of Shoa, Worra Kallo, Ambassel, Yechoo, 

Lasta, as far as Semien. From the point where we 

crossed the Gonagonit, we could look do^^^l into a 

basin of a tremendous depth, like that which I have 

mentioned near Debra Berhan. The Gonagonit forms 

a cataract of about 160 feet, falling into this basin, 

which sends its water to the river Adabui, and then 

runs to the Nile. I have generally observed that 

the rivulets rising in the east of the Shoan moun- 

tains form a high cataract at a certain distance from 

their sources. It cannot be otherwise, because the range 

of mountains on which these rivulets have their gene- 

ral and principal springs is aboit 9000 or 10,000 

feet above the sea ; while the Nile, in the west of Shoa, 

may be elevated about -1000 feet. Now, as the dis- 







278 THE CHASM OF TEGULET-WAT. 



tance between the source and mouth of these rivers 

is only about 180 miles, it is clear that they must 

have a sudden fall at certain points, where nature has 

produced other interesting appearances. Then you 

observe from the point of the cataract, high and steep 

banks of the river for a considerable distance and 

extent. It is a striking fact, that these cataracts, and 

this deep basin-like course of the rivers, are to be 

observed toward Tegulet, the centre of Shoa, where 

geology might be led to interesting inquiries and 

results. 



Having crossed the Gonagonit, I was conducted by 

my people to a place where they said that the ocean 

could be seen. When I drew near this curious spot, I 

was not a little struck at observing a chasm of the 

earth, about 200 yards in length, and three feet in 

breadth. The depth must be enormous, as I could 

not hear the noise of stones which I threw down. It 

is natural that the Abyssinians should point to this 

place as the residence of evil spirits, as it is indeed 

a curious one ; but probably there is more truth in 

the report which states, that one day when the Amharas 

persecuted the Gallas, they being unacquainted ^^dth 

the dangerous localities, fell into the chasm and 

perished in great numbers. I believe this may be a 

fact, as the spot does not appear on its surface to be 

particularly dangerous; so that you might approach 

without any apprehension till you fell into the depth 

between the rocks. The place allows a small entrance 







COUNTRY AROUND TEGULET. 279 



in the north ; but people say that the path is soon 

lost iu the subteiTaneous water. Happily, the general 

road is a little distant from this dangerous spot, or 

else it might prove fatal to many people, especially 

at night. The place is called Tegulet-Wat, which 

means — the devouring depth of Tegidet. 



Soon after we had crossed the Gonagonit, we crossed 

another rivulet called Logheita, where we had a beau- 

tiful view of the hill on which Tegulet, the former 

capital, was built. There is now a ^^llage called 

Etteghe, where I was told, there is such a distant 

view, that the place became an Abyssinian proverb, the 

people saying in an Amharic rhyme : " Etteghe Gondar 

taioo Echeghue," which means : At Etteghe is the 

Echeghue seen at Gondar. 



It has already been mentioned, that the nature of 

the countiy around Tcgulet, which is also the name 

for the whole district or province around, is of a very 

particular kind, forming numerous toiTcnts, with steep 

and high banks, and allowing only a few accessible 

roads for men and animals in ascending the hills, which 

are separated from each other by these tremendous 

toirents. Having taken in view this natural con- 

dition of the country, we can understand why the 

continual efforts of the numerous Galla cavalry, and 

those of the Mahomedans of Adel, were always dis- 

appointed in taking that part of Shoa, and why the 

Christian name could not be exterminated by their 

ferocious hordes. 







280 ARRIVE AT LOGHEITA. 



About four o'clock we arrived at a village, called 

Logheita, where we intended to pass the night in the 

house of the Checka-shum, Governor of the soil or 

ground, as he is called in the system of Shoan adminis- 

tration. He received me well, having frequently heard 

of me from people of Ankohar. Checka-shum, pro- 

perly speaking, means overseer of the soil or ground. 

He is appointed by the Misleni, or vice-Governor of 

a province, and he must collect the tribute which a 

village owes to the Governor of the prodnce. Under 

the Checka-shum is the Amba-llas, who merely ex- 

ecutes the orders of his superior. For instance, if a 

great stranger is quartered in the village, he collects 

the quantity of pro'isions from the villagers at the 

order of the Checka-shum, which is only then the 

case if the stranger is accompanied or conducted by 

a royal servant, called Afero. If you have such a 

servant with you, the Governors must receive you, and 

provide for your daily wants. Of course, the advan- 

tage is always on the part of the Checka-shum, as he 

can order such a quantity of provisions, that not only 

the stranger, but also his whole household vnll be 

supported for many days. Besides, he always expects 

a present from the stranger. 



Having travelled for three years almost over the 

whole kingdom of Shoa, I must express my entire 

dissatisfaction with this custom. In the* first place, 

it exposes you, in a great measure, to the beggaries of 

the Superior of the village, who will endeavour by 







DUTIES OF THE CHECKA-SIIUM. 281 



some means or other to obtain from you as large a pre- 

sent as he can ; and, in the second place, the inhabi- 

tants, who have no share in the present, will become 

disaffected toward the stranger, who eats his bread at 

their expense. In my opinion, it would be better if 

his Majesty ordered his Governors to assist a stranger 

only in providing his own wants at the usual rate of the 

country, because there is no advantage for the tra- 

veller, as he must give presents which exceed the value 

of what the villagers have given him. 



The Checka-shum holds his situation for one year 

only. He pays no tribute during that time ; but 

collects only the tribute of his village. In like manner, 

he is exempted from contributing in the second year 

of his rest, as it is called ; but in the third year he 

must pay like all other dllager3. The inhabitants 

give him a dinner on every great festival, besides which 

he receives his share on all occasions of great display 

and entertainments. He orders the people to plough, 

build, gather the harvest, &c. He pays twenty pieces 

of rock-salt (equal to one dollar in Shoa) to the Gover- 

nor who appoints him at the rcqviest and choice of 

tlie villagers. 



The village of Logheita — the whole district around 

has the same name — has been so called from Logo, a 

former Chief of the Gallas, who had been in the pos- 

session of this fertile district, till Asfa-Woossen, 

grandfather of the present King, had conquered and 

settled it. Sahela Selassieh has granted the revenues 







283 MONASTERY OF ST. ABBO. 



of this village to the Alaca Amda-Tzion, who is the 

superior of the convent at Meedak (not far from 

Ankobar to the south-west), and who instructed and 

guarded one of the royal princes. 



In the neighbourhood of the west of the village of 

Logheita is a monastery, consecrated to one of the 

most celebrated Abyssinian Saints, St. Abbo, whose 

anniversary will be to-morrow. This cloister was 

established when the district was still in the hands of 

the Gallas, of whom many were converted to Chris- 

tianity by the friars of the convent ; but this conver- 

sion was of a very superficial nature. Tlie Gallas were 

circumcised, baptized, obliged to fast, and to wear a 

string of silk around their necks in sign of separation 

from Mahomedans and Pagans. 



March 13, 1842 — Before starting I had a conversation 

with the people, who assembled around my tent imme- 

diately after day-break, on the principal topics of the 

Holy Scriptui'cs. I also distributed a few copies of 

the Amharic and iEthiopic New Testament to the 

priests of the village, and to the monks of St. Abbo. 

About seven o'clock we left Logheita in the direc- 

tion NNE. I could not refrain from looking back 

once more on the fertile district of Logheita, this 

being a Bala-Maseno ; i. e. a country which can be 

watered by channels which the inhabitants have made 

in their fields to water them during the dry season. 

Irrigation is not uncommon in Abyssinia. They 







CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST. 283 



of course increase the value of the laud with its pro- 

prietor. 



About eight o^clock we travelled through the dis- 

trict Hoolat-Dech (two doors), which name alludes to 

the two gates or principal ways which you can take in 

going to Zalla-Dengai and the provinces beyond. The 

district of Hoolat-Dech is very rocky and hilly. On 

the left of our road was Negarit-Bar, a small lake at 

the foot of hills. The name of the lake is taken 

from the Amharic " Negarit," which signifies a drum, 

as the Shoans superstitiously believe that evil spirits 

have been heard beating a drum in this lake. A 

priest of a neighbouring village, who accompanied me 

for a considerable distance on the road, led the con- 

versation to this subject. He asserted that lakes are 

the general assembling places of evil spirits. I said, 

that he was not right according to the Scriptures in 

placing evil spirits in lakes, as hell fire was stated 

as the place of devils and all sinful creatures. Their 

residence, I said, in lakes on earth would afford them 

a considerable degree of ease and rest from the tor- 

ments which God in His justice had sent upon them on 

account of their transgressions — that Mark v. 13, 

on which passage his opinion was founded, had a particu- 

lar purpose, from which we are not entitled to draw the 

conclusion that unclean spirits reside in lakes — that 

unclean spirits, according to the Scriptiircs, have only two 

places of residence ; namely, in hell fire, and in the hu- 

man heart; and therefore, instead of searchingaftcrtheevil 







284 RIVER GOODO-BERAT. 



spirits in lakes, wc should do better if we inquired 

after their residence in the very centre of our thoughts, 

words, and deeds — and that it would be better if we were 

to draw near our Saviour in humble prayer and faith, 

and beg Him to cast out the unclean spirits of oui" 

lusts and worldly desires, lest they should lead us to 

that hell fire which burns from all eternity. Finally, 

I admonished the ignorant priest to read the pure 

Word of God contained in the Old and New Testament, 

to imprint it on his mind in prayer and faith, and then 

to teach it to his countrymen. 



About nine o'clock we crossed the river Goodo- 

Berat, which rises in the famous range of mountains 

which I have before mentioned. It runs to the river 

Adabui in the west, to which river forty-four rivulets 

are said to pay their tribute of water. But this is 

evidently an imitation of the number of the forty-four 

Churches of Gondar. In the same manner the Shoans 

say, that in proceeding from the coast of Massowah 

forty-four rivers must be crossed before you reach Shoa. 

If we count every rivulet, I should think that this 

account would come short of the number of rivers. 

The river Goodo-Berat has its name from a powerful 

Galla Chieftain, who, in connexion with Amdich, 

Mei'kurri, Woldab, and other less influential Chiefs, 

had taken possession of the countries around, after 

Gragne had desolated this territory. 



On enquiring about what the people knew of the 

origin of the Gallas, I learned that three sons of a 







ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS. 285 



man, whose name they could not tell mc, had given 

rise to all the Galla tribes around Shoa. One of these 

sons, Karaioo, took possession of the country in the 

east of the before mentioned range of mountains ; and 

also possessed himself of Tarmabar, a principal peak 

of this mountain range. Hence the descendants of 

Karaioo, who were then divided into several other 

tribes, possessed all the countries in the east and 

north-east of xnkobar as far as the territories of the 

Adels, or Danakils. They consequently possessed the 

lower countries, which are comprised under the general 

name of Argobba, in the east of Efat. It is a fact, 

that to this day a tribe called Karaioo, still exists in 

the south-east of Ankobar. Another son, called 

Toolom, went over the range and possessed himself of 

all the countries in the west to the river Hawash in 

the south, and to the Nile in the west. The third 

son, called Wollo, conquered the countries in the north 

of Shoa, and became the general Chief of the seven 

houses of the Wollo Gallas, of whom I shall speak in 

the course of my journal. 



About twelve o'clock we passed through the district 

called Beshkatie ; i. e. It disgusts me. The origin of 

this strange name is stated as follows : — A Governor, 

called Tofich, brought such an abundance of honey as 

tribute to the King Asfa-Woossen, grandfather of 

Sahela Sclassieh, that the King exclaimed, "The 

abundance of honey which that district ])roduccs dis- 

gusts mc," or more verbally, " stinks before me." 







286 MONASTERY OP MASKALIE GHEDAM. 



The road of Beshkatie led us to the district of 

Rodas, which received its name from one of the eight 

sons of Ali, a Mahomedan, who took possession of the 

country around at the time of Gragne, in whose in- 

terest it was to introduce people of his religion into 

the country. When Ali died, his eight sons, of whom 

Rodas, Sadekas, and Jonas, particularly distinguished 

themselves, possessed the district till they were all killed 

by the intruding Gallas, who availed themselves of the 

desolation which Gragne had caused in Abyssinia ; a 

circumstance which reminds us of Joel i. 4. That 

ivhich the palmer loorm hath left, hath the locust 

eaten, S^c. 



Oui- road then led us to Maskalie Ghedam which 

means, " My cross is a convent." Though the monas- 

tery was close to the way side, yet I had no time to 

halt and take leave of Alaca Woldab, who has 

been a friend of mine for some time. However, I 

sent him a copy of the ^thiopic New Testament, for 

which he had expressed a desire whenever he had seen 

me at Ankobar. He is one of those Ecclesiastics who 

use the Amharic Bible in teaching their pupils. Tlie 

reason why I could not halt was, because I had no 

time to lose, as I wished before evening to reach Zalla- 

Dengai, where the Queen-Dowager resides. A travel- 

ler in Abyssinia must always bear in mind, that he 

must arrive in due time at the Governors with whom 

he intends to pass the night, in order that the requi- 

site preparations may be made before night fall. An 







PROVINCE OF MANS. 287 



error of this kind is always blamed by the people, and 

it puts the traveller, as well as his host, to great incon- 

veniences, as the villagers not being aware in due time 

of the arrival of a stranger, are therefore unprepared. 

In general, the Abyssinians have a dislike against all 

night-work, as they go early to bed, in order to get up 

before or at day -break. 



The nearer we approached Zalla-Dengai, the more 

the large and plain province of Mans was presented 

to om- view. The people of Mans, of whom I shall 

speak more fully afterward, have the character of being- 

brave, daring, and ignorant — a character which seems 

to me to have been given them with some reason, as 

I shall state hereafter. They are principally engaged 

in breeding sheep, the colour of which is very 

dark ; a circumstance which shows that the pro- 

vince of ]Ians must be high land, as the black hair 

protects the sheep better against the cold. The Man- 

sians use this black wool for weaving cloth, which 

they call Sekdat ; and it must be remarked, that this 

kind of di'css at once distinguishes a Mansian from 

the other Shoans, who wear clothes woven of cotton, 

which is cultivated in large quantities in the lower 

countries, and which is generally of a good and silky 

quality. 



Upon inquiring after the boundaries and extent of 

Mans, I had the satisfaction of being led to a result 

which I could never obtain before, although I had for 

the last three years inquired on every opportunity about 







288 NOTICES OF THE VARIOUS 



the geographical division of the different provinces of 

the kingdom of Shoa. It may therefore be imagined 

how much I was dehghtcd with obtaining information 

on a subject which had puzzled me for several years, 

and which is so important in sketching a correct map 

of the country. I will state what I have learned from 

good authority. 



1. The most southern province of Shoa, inhabited 

chiefly by Christians, is the province of Menchar. Its 

noi'thern boundary is the river Kassam, and its southern 

frontier is Mount Bokan. Menchar is on the way to 

the Hawash in the south, and to the countries of 

Gurague, Cambat, and Sentshiro. 



2. The province of Bulga (Bidga and Menchar 

together were formerly called Fatagar) is bordered, on 

the south, by the river Kassam ; and on the north by 

the river Kabani, which runs to the Adel country to- 

ward the Hawash. 



3. The province of Efat begins with the northern 

banks of the river Kabani, and extends as far as the 

river Robi, which rises in the Tarmabar range of moun- 

tains, and runs to the Adel country. 



4. In the north of the river Robi begins the pro- 

vince of Gheddem, which is bounded by the province 

of Efrata in the north. Efrata is bordered on the 

north by the river Berkona, which separates the Shoan 

dominions from those of the Mahomedan ruler of 

AVorra Kallo and Argobba. It must be remarked, that 

this is another Argobba, not belonging to tJie King of 







PROVINCES OF SHOA. 289 



Slioa. The name " Argobba '' is given by the Adds 

to all the lower countries where cotton is cultivated. 

Thus you hear of an Argobba belonging to Sahela 

Selassieh, and another belonging to the ruler of Worra 

Kallo. It must also be remarked, that the Adels 

generally call the King of Shoa only King of Efat, as 

this pro^^nce is bounded by their own country ; while 

the people of jSTorthern Abyssinia call him the King of 

Shoa, this being nearer to them. In like manner, the 

Gallas in the south always call him the King of Efat, 

as the Shoan power undertook its first military opera- 

tions against the southern tribes by starting from Efat ; 

and as in fact most of the Shoan forces which fight 

against the Gallas are composed of Efatian soldiers. 

These remarks will preserve the Geographer from con- 

founding what is so clear, if he has compared the 

different reports of the natives of the country, and the 

countries around. 



5. The proTLnce of Tegulet has its boundary from 

the river Beresa, near Debra Berhan, and from the 

river Tchatcha, near Angollala, and extends to the river 

jIofer in the north. This province forms the principal 

part of Shoa, and is situated exactly in the centre of 

the whole Shoan kingdom. 



6. The province of Mans begins with the river 

Mofer in the north of Tegulet, and extends as far as 

the river Katchenee in the north. 



7. With the Katchenee river begins the province 

of Geshe, which is bounded in the north by the river 



o 







,290 ARRIVE AT ZALLA-DENGAI. 



Woait^ which separates the Shoan dominions in the 

north-west from the different Wollo Galla tribes. 



8. Between Shoa Meda and the river Jamma in the 

south-west is the province of Morat ; and between the 

rivers Jamma and Wonshit is the province of ]Iora- 

bietie in the north-west. 



9. Shoa Meda is a plain or level country of con- 

siderable extent ; but it is possessed by tributary pagan 

Gallas, many villages of whom however have been 

lately converted to Christianity by the orders of the 

King of Shoa, who commanded them to be circum- 

cised, to be baptized, to fast, to wear a string of 

silk around the neck, and not to eat with Mahomedans 

or Pagans. 



All the country from Shoa to the H awash in the 

south is inhabited by Pagan Gallas, of whom I have 

given a description in my former journals. They are 

all subjected to the sway of Shoa. The Mahomedans, 

who are under the Government of Shoa, reside in the 

eastern parts of the kingdom, in Argobba, toward 

the Adel country. 



After four o'clock we arrived at Zalla-Dengai, where 

Zenama-Work, the mother of Sahela Selassieh, resides. . 

Before we reached the place, I saw on the road a hill, 

on which I was told that the present King was edu- 

cated and guarded by the Alaca Woldab, who is not to 

be confounded with the same name mentioned before. 

It is a pretty little square hill, on which his royal 

highness had a beautiful iew of the country around. 







HOSPITALITY OF ZEXA]IA-WORK. 291 



and on which many ideas and future schemes may have 

been raised and planned in his mind. 



On arriving at the foot of the hill on which the 

houses of Zenama-Workj the Queen-Dowager, are 

built, we were stopt a few minutes and asked who we 

were, and from whence we had come. Having given 

a satisfactory answer to these questions, we were 

permitted to walk up the hill, when the gates of the 

outer wall were immediately opened. Having reached 

the outside of the court-yard, I was ordered by the 

Dech-agafari — the introducer through the gates — to 

sit dovra on a red skin which had been spread out be- 

fore me. A messenger was then dispatched with my 

compliments to the royal lady, who as soon as she heard 

of my arrival, sent word that she would be glad to sec 

the man of whom she had heard much for several years; 

but that, as it was already late, she could not see me 

then, but would call me to-morrow morning. I was 

then conducted to a house, which I was to occupy 

during my stay at Zalla-Dengai. But I preferred to 

pitch my tent for many reasons. Two large pitchers 

of hydromel, two jars of beer, a sheep, fowls, eggs, 

bread, a jar of honey, and many other things were then 

presented in such an abundance, that I was obliged to 

send back the greater part of them, lest my })cople 

should commit any excess in enjoying the hospitality of 

our hostess. Servants were also sent and ordered to 

attend and provide me with whatever I should require. 



March 1 1, 18 12 — Having expressed my wish to depart 

o 2 







292 INTERVIEW WITH 



early, I was called by the Queeu-Dowager to see her, 

and at the same time to bid her farewell. I wore my 

European di'ess and the silver sword which her royal 

son had given me with the request to wear it on all 

occasions of state. I was introduced through fom- or 

five gates, till the Dech-agafari at last conducted me to 

a small but nice looking room, in which the old lady 

was sitting on a bedstead covered wdth a carpet of dif- 

ferent coloui's. A great number of female servants, 

mostly slave girls, stood on the left and right of the 

lady ; while her male servants, priests, and counsellors, 

stood at some distance from her. The attendants of 

both sexes were well dressed ; and when I entered they 

talked with their mistress in a familiar and easy manner. 

The lady wore a large white Abyssinian dress, with very 

few other marks of distinction. Though about sixty 

years of age, she still appeared young and lively; and 

although she is, except her royal son, the most influen- 

tial person in the kingdom, and governs nearly the 

half of Shoa in a very independent manner, yet she 

shows less of the stiffness observable in other Abys- 

sinian ladies of a much inferior rank. She appears to 

be a person of high attainments, in the Abyssinian 

manner, and quite qualified for the situation which she 

holds in the Shoan affaii's, and seems to deserve the 

attachment and respect which her subjects as well 

as her royal son himself pay to her. 



Having paid my respects to her, I presented her with 

a few presents, consisting of a coloured shawl, a pair 







THE QUEEX-DOWAGER. 293 



of English scissors, a looking-glass, and a copy of the 

^thiopic New Testament and Amharic Old Testament. 

She was extremely grateful, and several times repeated, 

" May God reward you ! " She was particularly pleased 

with the Holy Scriptures; and although the other 

things attracted her attention, yet the Word of God 

seemed to afford her the greatest satisfaction. I had 

heard at Ankobar that she had bought many of the 

books which I had given the people, and that she had 

distributed them to her priests. From what I have 

seen, this report may be quite correct. She had 

several times intended to enter a nunneiy, partly 

from religious motives, and partly from weariness of 

her temporal business. 3Iay she find, under the Divine 

assistance, in the "Word of God, the true way to her 

eternal welfare and hai)piness ! 



Having accepted my little presents, she expressed 

her satisfaction at having become acquainted with the 

man of whom she had heard much for the last three 

years. She then asked why I was leaving the country; 

whether I should return to Shoa ; and whether those 

gentlemen, who had lately brought such valuable pre- 

sents to her son, belonged to my nation. She also 

asked, by what means my countrjTnen had advanced so 

far in manufacturing the most wonderful things. I 

replied, that God had said in His Word, Them that 

honour me I will honour ; and that if we like His holy 

Word, He will not only give us spiritual and eternal 

blessings for our souls, but will also give us wisdom and 







294 ORIGIN OF THE NAME ZALLA-DENGAI. 



understanding m temporal affairs, according to the 

promise of our Saviour, Matt. vi. 33. 



She then resumed the matter of the presents which 

Her Majesty had sent to the King of Shoa. She ex- 

claimed more than once : " What astonishing things 

have we seen in the time of Sahela Selassieh ! For- 

merly, we only heard of these things and of your White 

people; but now we have seen with our eyes and believe 

what we were told.^^ I said, that they would see still 

more astonishing things if Sahela Selassieh, following 

the example of the enlightened Sovereigns of the White 

people, would go on in improving the moral and tem- 

poral condition of his subjects. 



Having already laid claim too long to the time of the 

royal lady, I thought it proper to discontinue the con- 

versation. Thanking her for the attention and hospi- 

tality with which I had been honoured since my arrival, 

I left the room, when she wished me a happy journey, 

and promised to send one of her servants with me, to 

introduce me to Ayto Habta Michael, the Governor of 

Geshe, on the northern frontier of Shoa. I had now 

been in the zenith of honour, happiness, and external 

abundance ; but on leaving Zalla-Dengai I had to con- 

tend with many difficulties and dangers, as will be seen 

in the course of my journey. 



The origin of the name Zalla-Dengai is reported in 

the following manner. — Formerly there was a large stone 

on the top of the hill where Zenama-Work resides. Bad 

people were sitting one day on the stone, engaged in 







THE queen-dowager's ESTABLISHMENT. 295 



telling lies, and in contmdng tricks against their fellow- 

creatui'es ; when, on a sudden, the stone moved and 

rolled down into the deep torrent, which runs in the 

east of Zalla-Dengai toward the river Mofer. The 

people were killed; and that others should take their 

example for a warning, the place was called Zalla-Dengai, 

which means verbally " the jumping stone." My former 

way of WTiting Selat Dengai would imply the meaning 

" sharp stone," and must therefore be corrected, 



I felt an intense coldness at Zalla-Dengai, and the 

lady several times asked me whether it was so cold in 

my country. The whole establishment of Zenama- 

Work is arranged according to the model of the King, 

only on a smaller scale. Her house is surrounded with 

several walls, and you have to walk through many gates. 

In the centre is a court-j^ard, which however is not equal 

in extent to that at Ankobar. In the eastern fi'ont of 

this com*t-yard is a place of eminence, where the lady 

gives judgment to her subjects, as Sahcla Selassieh does 

at Ankobar. Another large room has been selected as 

the dining-room for her governors and soldiers. The 

superiority of her son consists in the following. — Each 

subject of Zenama-Work can apply to the King for 

justice, if her decision does not give satisfaction. She 

appoints her own governors ; but always with the ratifi- 

cation or approbation of his Majesty. She never un- 

dertakes an expedition ; but she is bound to send a 

contingent to the royal army. She must always keep 

her son in good humour, by sending presents from time 







296 INFLUENCE OF THE QUEEN-DOWAGER. 



to time, particularly of such articles as please him ; in 

return for which he sends her other pleasing things. 

Zenama-Work has great influence with her son, and 

she has sometimes ventured either to dissuade him from 

an undertaking, or to counteract his schemes, without 

having been resented by the despotic Monarch. She 

often intercedes with him for persons who have been 

disgi-aced by his Majesty, who esteems her so much, 

that he fi-equently swears by her name ; and when he 

appears before her, he takes off his cloth to the loins, 

just as his subjects do when they appear in his presence. 

His Majesty is well aware of the great advantages 

afforded to him by the female government and influence 

of his mother. She is a native of the province of 

Mans, and is the daughter of one of the former inde- 

pendent rulers of that countiy. On this account, the 

Mansians are more attached to her than to the King 

himself, whom they scarcely know and acknowledge. 

The Mansians being an obstinate set of people, would 

cause many distm'bances to his Majesty, if he could 

not govern them through his mother. Besides, he 

finds it convenient to throw every thing on his mother, 

who sometimes dissuades or encom'ages him either to 

leave off an undertaking, or to execute a scheme. Fur- 

thermore, it is pecuhar to the Abyssinian character 

to act through a mediator or intercessor. The 

greater the power and rank of the person is, the 

greater his mediator must be. I have frequently 

heard in Shoa, that the people compared Zenama- 







DEPARTURE FROM ZALLA-DEXGAI. 297 



Work, the Queen-Dowager, with the Holy Virgin, 

who is on the same terms with Christ, her son, 

on which Zenama-Work is mth her son, Sahela Selas- 

sieh. 



The village of Zalla-Dengai is not very large, and 

probably contains only the thii-d part of the houses and 

inhabitants of Ankobar. The hill presents an exten- 

sive and pretty view of the countries around, which 

are well cultivated, particularly with barley ; but the 

north and east of Zalla-Dengai presents a rocky and 

fertile appearance for several miles. 



Having retm-ned from my visit to Zenama-Work, I 

distributed a few copies of Amharic and ^thiopic 

Scriptui-es, and about eight o'clock a.m. we left Zalla- 

Dengai, We descended considerably for about half an 

horn-, leaving to oui- left Koorra-Gadel, which is an ex- 

tremely steep hill. I was told that Sahela Selassieh had 

been instructed there for some time in the chiu'ch of 

the Holy Trinity, which is built on the top ; and hence 

his Majesty has taken the habit of swearing by the 

Church of the Holy Trinity in Koorra-Gadel. If he 

has once sworn by that place, no alteration of the royal 

mind can be expected in whatever matter it may be. 

To the east we had the hill and district of Wodera, the 

produce of which is divided between the King and his 

mothtr, she taking the wood, which is very rare around 

Zalla-Dengai, and the King claiming the grass places 

for his cattle. Wodera and the country around was 

formerly in the hands of three Galla Chieftains; viz. 



O 5 







398 THE RIVER MOFER. 



Hamte^ Berre^ and HoolosfFe, until the Efatian Kings 

Ymmaha-Yasoos and Asfa-Woosseu turned them out 

of their possessions. Hamte displayed such bravery in 

war, that Asfa-Woosen himself respected him. 



About ten o'clock we crossed the river Mofer on its 

junction with a torrent called Kaskash, which rises at 

the foot of Wof-Washa. The latter is the name of a 

part of the range of mountains which I have several 

times mentioned. The water of the river Mofer comes 

from Gooasa, which is a part of the Tarmabar range. 

The river IMofer runs in a westerly direction, and joins 

the river Jamma, which falls into the Adabai, and this 

into the Nile. The Mofer separates the provinces of 

Tegulet and Mans, as above stated. It is about twenty- 

five feet in breadth at the place where I crossed it. Its 

banks are extremely steep, according to the general 

nature of the Abyssinian rivers and rivulets. It carries 

water to the Jamma during the whole year, and receives 

many tributary rivulets. 



Having crossed the Mofer, we had to ascend for a con- 

siderable time. The ascent was so steep and rocky, that 

we were compelled to unload our animals, and the men 

carried the baggage on their shoulders for some distance. 

Having reached the top, we saw before us an immense 

plain, intersected only by small hills. We had a beau- 

tiful view of the countries which we had traversed the 

preceding days. But we found the Mansian climate 

very cold ; and the wind also blew strongly from the 

east. Our general direction was south-south-west, 







SUBJECTION OF MANS TO THE KING OF SHOA. 299 



sometimes entii'ely north. The cold cHmate of Mans 

renders the black cloth made of wool indispensably 

necessary. 



Mans is the largest proince of the Shoan domini- 

ons ; but the Mansians endeavoiu* by all means to 

keep up their independence of old. They pay, how- 

ever, great respect to the Queen-Dowager, who consi- 

ders theii' country her hereditary government. The 

Mansians pay very little tribute to the Shoan crown. I 

was told that ten families only pay the tribute of one 

sheep in the course of a year. The principal tribute 

which is required from Mans, consists in providing 

Sekdat, or black cloth, which I have mentioned 

before, for the royal wants. His ^lajesty uses this 

black stuiF for his tents, or for charity to poor people. 



INlans was entirely independent of Shoa at the time 

of Ghera, who governed Mans, when Negassi, the first 

Shoan King, made himself independent of the Go- 

vernment of Gondar. The son of Ghera was Kedami, 

who had a son called Hiskias. He had a son called 

Gole, who was engaged in war with Abie, the King of 

Efat. Gole was defeated, and Mans became connected 

with the kingdom of Shoa. The daughter of Gole was 

Wolansa, the mother of Zenama-Work, who is the 

mother of the present King of Shoa. Hence the 

attachment which the Mansians entertain toward the 

Queen Dowager. 



• The province of Mans is divided into three parts : 

Mamma, Lalo, and Ghera. Each part has its own 







300 CHxRACTER OF 



Governor ; but I shall speak of this hereafter. At 

present I will only mention the genealogies of those 

rulers who formerly possessed independent provinces 

and governments, until they were united to the Shoan 

Sovereignty. 



1. Demetrios was the ruler of the province of 

Morabietie. He was succeeded by his son Woldoo, 

whose son was Dechen. At the time of Dechcn the 

province of Morabietie was united to Shoa. The 

daughter of Dechen is Besabesh, the present head-wife 

or queen. 



2. Masamer governed the province of Morat. He 

was succeeded by his son Esaias, whose son was Abisa. 

The son of Abisa was Tzeddoo, whose son was Hailoo. 

At his time Morat was conquered by Asfa-Woossen. 

Sahela Selassieh has left the issue of these little kings 

in the possession of their paternal and hereditary go- 

vernment. He was content A^dth their acknowledg- 

ment of his royal superiority, and with an annual tri- 

bute ; but his Majesty has lately abrogated this here- 

ditary system in Morat in consequence of a fault which 

Ay to Shunkor, a descendant of the old family, had com- 

mitted against him. Most probably the judicious 

monarch only waits for an opportunity of doing away 

with all hereditary governments in his kingdom. 



3. The hereditary Galla Governors in Shoa Meda 

are: Ero; Tooloo.his son; andWodach, at present Ayto 

Organon, who is in great favom* with his IMajesty. He 

turned a Christian a few years ago, the King himself 







THE MANSIANS. 301 



being his godfather, as is usual when influential Gallas 

adopt Christianity. 



4. In the province of Geshe ruled the descendants 

of Ausabie. 



5. In Gheddem ruled the issue of Yelala and Boroo ; 

in Anzokia, the children of Sarnie ; and in Efrata the 

children of Waldo Gucbru. Only in the province of 

Boolga no lineal succession was kept up, nor had his 

Majesty any regard for the issue of former influential 

families in his appointing the Governors of Bulga. It 

is considered as the country which the Efatian Kings 

have taken with their shield or military forces. 



The Mansians have the character of being brave, 

quarrelsome, inhospitable, ignorant, and haughty. 

This character is pretty correct and true. 



With regard to their bravery, I cannot judge from 

my own experience ; but I am told, that, when Ayto 

Medoko, a very brave Efatian Governor, had raised a 

rebellion against his Majesty about five years ago, and 

the King was in great distress, he sent a message to the 

Mansians, saying, — " My brothers, my relations, come 

and help me," the INIansians appeared in great num- 

bers and decided the royal victory over the rebel. But 

this was the first time that they went on an expedition 

with the King. Those who go annually to war with 

his Majesty are merely volunteers, and are not numer- 

ous. 



Concerning the quarrelsomeness of the Mansians, it 

must be stated, that as no strong royal hand is able to 







302 CHARACTER OF 



govern them^ every trifle causes them to be at variance 

with each other. A little affront^ or a small matter 

that happens on account of the boundaries of their 

fields, raises such animosities between them, that they 

draw their swords and kill one another. These continual 

contests and then- self-interestedness, prevent them 

from hvdng together in one village. Each individual, 

or several families being the issue of a great man, 

build their houses, wherever they find convenient for 

the sake of their property, or for the purpose of more 

easily watching their fields. On this account therefore 

you do not see large villages in Mans. They do not 

fight against a common and general enemy, but only 

against each other ; and therefore they say, " We will 

not fight against the Gallas, who do us no harm ; but 

we fight among ourselves." On this account they 

refuse to go on the King's annual expeditions against 

the southern Gallas. It has fi'equently happened, that 

they have killed their own governors, or that they have 

imprisoned or insulted them, if they ventured to restrain 

theii' independence and spirit of liberty. His Majesty 

cares little for this, as he dare not ventm-e to in- 

crease their dissatisfaction with him. Occasionally he 

bums the houses of the most obstinate people ; but 

this will not always answer. In short, his power and 

influence in that part of his dominions is very limited 

and loose. The Mansians openly declare, " We know 

little about Sahela Selassieh." Nobody would venture 

to say so in Efat. His Majesty well aware of his 







THE MAXSIAXS. 







303 







little influence in ]Mans, endeavours to cover his weak- 

nessj by saving that he does not require much from 

the JNIansians, as they are his relations, his mother being 

a Mansian, as we have seen above. 



AVith respect to the inhospitability of the Mansians, 

I can judge from my own experience. Although I had 

a man from the King, and another from Zenama-Work 

with me ; and although I offered money and pajTiient, 

yet the pettiest Governor of a hamlet would not allow me 

to pass the night in his house, nor pro-ide me with 

what I wanted. He knew that I had royal messengers 

with me ; but he would not Hsten to them, when they 

requested provisions in the name of the King and 

Zenama-AVork. 



The Mansians are very ignorant, and on this account 

have become a proverb on the market-place of Bollo- 

Workie. The Gallas say : " ^lansie our Gashie ;" that 

is to say, the 'Nlansian is a blind buyer ; he does not 

look whether the salt-piece is good or bad; whether the 

bullock which he purchases is useful and good for him 

or not. It must be observed, that they have no im- 

portant market-place in their own proT.nce, as their 

unprincipled life would raise bloody quarrels on such 

opportunities; and therefore they must go to the markets 

of Bollo-Workie and Geshe. The learned Mansians are 

chiefly engaged in using witchcraft, and are therefore 

feared wherever they go. They pretend to be able to 

charm spirits from the water. They say that the Alaca 

of the evil spirits is in the lake Alobar, which is in Mans. 







304 SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS OF MANS. 



These and many other things show that the Mansians 

must be an ignorant people; and that the other Shoans^ 

who call them cows and donkeys on account of their 

ignorance, are nearly right, if they themselves would 

only be better and superior in knowledge and morality. 



About three o'clock we crossed the river Goormengne, 

which runs to the Adabai in the west ; and about half- 

past three we passed the river Sanafil-asfach. The 

meaning of this strange name, which only the Man- 

sians could give, is verbally — He caused the breeches 

to be destroyed. 



The soil of Mans is chiefly black, and principally 

produces barley, wheat, peas, hog's beans, &c. Sheep 

are in abundance, and can be bought for two or three 

pieces of salt. Cotton and pepper cannot be cultivated 

in Mans, being too high and cold a country. Vlien the 

eastern winds blow over the country, it is so cold that 

you can scarcely believe that you are in the interior of 

Africa. Notmthstanding this cold climate, the fea- 

tures of the Mansians are of a pretty dark, yea, black 

colour. In fact, every thing of theirs is black, as their 

soil, clothes, sheep, cattle, and, above all, their quarrel- 

some mind. They have a great aversion to the white 

clothes of cotton, of which the other Shoans are so 

fond. They use white clothes only as a covering at 

night, or on occasions of state. ^Tien a Mansian 

dies, his white clothes are claimed by the priests, who 

consider themselves the legitimate heirs in this respect. 

As wood in Mans is very rare, they build their houses 







CROSS THE RIVER RETMAT. 305 



of stones, at least the walls. Tlie interior construction 

of tbeir houses does not look so bad as one would sup- 

pose from the outside appearance of the building. The 

outward shape of their houses is circular, like that of 

the houses of the other Shoans. 



After four o'clock I pitched my tent in a "hamlet, 

called Wokan, in the court-yard of a petty Governor, 

of whom I have made mention above. As I found the 

people so ill disposed toward travellers, I ordered my 

senants to stand sentiy by turns during the night. 

But, above all, I bowed my knees before the almighty 

Shepherd of Israel, who never sleeps nor slumbers, and 

implored His assistance, protection, and blessing upon 

my journey. 



March 15, 1842 — The priest of our host came after 

day-break to beg from me a copy of the iEthiopic New 

Testament, which I gave him. He had yesterday 

spoken to the Governor in our favoui*, and had provided 

us ^N^ith a few provisions. I also presented to him a 

copy of the Heidelberg Catechism in Amharic. As 

he could not at first understand what sort of book this 

was, I availed myself of the delay of our departui'e — 

caused by the intense coldness — to give him verbal ex- 

planations. In a short time many people were assembled 

around us. 



We left Wokan after seven o'clock, and about half- 

past seven crossed the river Rctmat, which is about 

twelve feet in breadth. It has steep banks, and our 

animals could only cross it with difficulty. Its source 







306 SOURCE OF THE RIVER RETMAT. 



is in the Gooasa range of mountains in the east. It 

had very little water at the present dry season. This 

river separates the district of Mamma from that of 

Lab, on which we had now entered. The western 

bomidary of the district Mamma is the river Adabai, 

and the* eastern frontier is Kaot. The present Gover- 

nor of Mamma is Ayto Gadeloo, to whom the King 

has married one of his numerous daughters. The dis- 

trict of Lalo is bounded in the north by the river 

Aftanat, in the west by the province of Morabietie, and 

on the east by Gheddem. It is divided into Lalo and 

Igam. The people of both districts are in perpetual 

feu.ds with each other ; and last year in an engagement 

about thirty men were killed on both sides. Lalo 

is not so plain as the district of Mamma, which we 

traversed yesterday. Money in coin is but little known 

in Mans, as the IMansians say, " We do not heap up 

dollars as the Efatians do: we heap up salt-pieces 

and ploughs, which we bmy." The more a man has of 

buried plough-shares, the richer he appears in the eyes 

of his coimtrymen. The Mansians seldom appear with 

spears on the road, instead of which they use big sticks 

on their jom-ney ; and with these they beat on soundly, 

when they dispute on the road. 



About nine o'clock we crossed the river Igam, which 

had however but little water at this season. I was 

struck at observing all the houses built at the foot of 

steep hills, sm-rounding the hamlets like natural walls. 

The reason of this must be the coldness of the climate 







BLACK SHEEP OF THE WOLLO COUNTRY. 307 



and their perpetual feuds. Behind these fortifications 

of hills they can defend themselves ; and besides, they 

are secured against the blowing of cold and violent winds. 



About ten o'clock we crossed the river Aftanat, to 

the bed of which we had to descend about a thou- 

sand feet. The breadth of the river was about fifteen 

feet. It carries down to the west a larger quantity of 

water than the river Igam mentioned above. Having 

crossed the Aftanat I saw, for the fii'st time, the large 

sheep, the skin of which is called Lovisa, and much 

valued by the Abyssinians. It was grazing in the field 

with other sheep. Its black hair was so long that it 

almost touched the ground. This kind of sheep wants 

a cold climate, and will never live in lower and warmer 

regions. Its skin is sold for fifteen or twenty pieces of 

salt, as it is seldom found, and much demanded by war- 

riors. I shall speak about this sheep at large, when 

describing the country of the AVollo Gallas. 



About eleven o'clock we saw, on the west of our 

route, down into a large and deep basin, in which the 

rivers Igam and Aftanat and several others join and 

form one river, known under the general name of 

Ghirid, which joins the river Jamma, near the village 

Kum Dengai in Shoa ]Ieda. The ]Iansians take re- 

fuge to this basin when they are attacked by a prevail- 

ing enemy, who cannot persecute them so far, as there 

is only one steep descent, which they can easily 

defend against an enemy. 



About twelve o'clock we passed the river Hoolladcha, 







308 DISTRICT OF AGANCHA. 



and half an hour afterward the river Ghedambo^ which 

forms the boundary between the district of Lalo and 

Ghera. The country from the river Ghedambo to 

Agancha belongs hereditarily to the Queen-Dowager. 

Agancha is a small district in the larger district of 

Ghera, which belongs at the same time to Sahela Selas- 

sieh, first, on account of his mother Zenama-Work; 

and, secondly, on account of his forefather Negassi, the 

first Shoan King, whose residence was in Agancha, 

from which he went conquering to Tarmabar and fur- 

ther to the south-east of Efat, to Aramba and Ankobar. 



Having crossed the river Ghedambo, we had a good 

road and the same black soil as yesterday. Our general 

direction was from north-west-west to north-north-east. 

About one o'clock we crossed the river Agancha, from 

which the district around has its name. It is a tribu- 

tary river to the Ghirid, and rises in the mountain 

range which pours out its water over the whole west 

of Shoa. 



Many people followed my little caravan to find pro- 

tection, as they said, in my company on their road to 

Gondar. The greater part of them were going to 

Gondar to receive holy orders from the new Abuna, 

who, I understood, daily ordains about a thousand 

people. The candidates are obliged to be able to read 

the ^thiopic Gospel, and to sing from the book of 

Yared ; and then the Abuna lays his hands on them. 

For this they must pay him one or two pieces of salt. 

But it must be remarked, that nobody can receive 







QUALIFICATIONS FOR ORDINATION. 309 



priests' orders, until his beard lias begun to grow, 

which is considered a sign that the candidate is be- 

tween eighteen or twenty-foui- years of age, as the 

Abyssinians seldom know their age. But the orders 

for deaconship will be given at any time. I saw bands 

of boys, being six or eight years of age. 



About two o'clock wc crossed the river Shai, which, 

I was told, goes through the famous lake Alobar, in 

the west of Mans. Having left this lake, the river is 

called Shimmas, and joins the river Jamma, which I 

have frequently mentioned. The lake, I am told, is 

very large, being about a day's joui-ney in circumfer- 

ence. It was formerly all land, until the Virgin iNIary 

destroyed it hke Sodom and Gomorrah. The tradition 

is, that the Virgin Mary appeared one day in the house 

of a rich and wealthy man, who lived in one of the 

-illages built on the spot where there is now a lake. 

]lary, addi'cssing the house-wife of the rich man, said, 

"Give me some grain : I vdW grind flour for wages." 

The lady of the house complied with ]Iary's request, 

and gave her some grain; but this, in a miracidous 

manner, instantly became meal. The Virgin then 

wanted her wages ; but the rich man refused, saying, 

that she had not ground the meal. Mary brought the 

matter before the judges of the country ; but these de- 

cided in favour of the rich man. At last the Virgin 

applied to the shepherds of the place, who yielded the 

question to her, by saying, that as she was the author 

and beginner of grinding, she could claim her wages 







310 TRADITION RESPECTING 



by right. The Virgin, pleased with this decision, made 

the regulation that shepherds should annually, on the 

festival of Debra-Tabor, and of her anniversary, receive 

from their countrymen large quantities of Dabo — large 

cakes of white Abyssinian bread — as they had done her 

justice. But at the same time she destroyed the villages, 

changing them into a lake like Sodom and Gomorrah, 

which lake is called Alobar, and is, in the opinion of 

the Shoans, the dwelling place of all evil spirits, par- 

ticularly of their Alaca. Therefore, a Shoan, who 

wants to lay claim for having obtained a considerable 

degree of magical knowledge and practice, must have 

gone to school with the Alaca of the spirits in lake 

Alobar in the province of Mans. But the fact is, that 

such a cunning scholar swims several times in diiferent 

directions through the lake, as far inwards as his strength 

will allow him, and with this his lessons are terminated. 

Henceforth he has abundance of customers, who will 

pay any price for his talismanic writings or prayers. 

This impostor is called sometimes by persons from a 

considerable distance in the country, who put confi- 

dence in his charms. And what does he do ? He asks 

every-body at some distance from the place, where he 

is to go ; abovit the character, features, situation, rela- 

tions and connections of the person who has called him. 

Of course he then appears well informed of the circum- 

stances of the person who Mdshes to consult him. This 

deceived person is astonished at the wisdom which the 

impostor displays regarding things which only the 







THE LAKE ALOBAR. 311 



Alaca of lake Alobar can have communicated to the 

magician, who then receives bullocks, mules, sheep, 

salt pieces, dollars, clothes, &c., in acknowledgment of 

the power of divination, with which he has been endowed 

by the gi'eat lord of Alobar. 



About four o'clock we crossed the river Ghidaot. The 

country around appears to be volcanic, the hills being 

quite bare, and large pieces of rocks have been thrown 

down and scattered over the country. The people 

pointed out a steep hill, on the foot of which a Tzabale 

was said to exist. Tzabale means such springs, the 

water of which has been blessed by an Abyssinian 

saint, and will therefore cure all sorts of diseases, even 

those which human skill is unable to heal. The Tzabale 

near the river Ghidaot, is ascribed to the blessing of the 

Saint Guebra Manfos Kedos, at whose anniversary this 

spring is considered as gifted mth a particular sanative 

power. The priests prevent the people from using the 

water at any other time, except at the anniversary of 

Guebra Manfos Kedos. It cannot be questioned that 

there are some mineral waters in Shoa, which have, in 

some cases, produced a very extraordinary effect ; but 

notwithstanding they must be governed by the same 

physical laws which we find in the mineral wells of all 

other countries. 



On the banks of the river Ghidaot I saw, for the first 

time, that kind of yellow thorn, the root of which is 

used in manufacturing yellow cloth, which they 

call Woiba, and which is worn by monks and by 







313 ARRIVE AT AMAD-WASIIA. 



people who are in great distress. Instead of this root, 

they also use the bark of a tree, called Woiba. The 

root or bark is boiled in hot watei', together with the 

thread, which is then exposed to the sun. 



After five o'clock we arrived in the village of Amad- 

Washa, the name of which is taken from the soil, which 

resembles ashes. The Governor is under the special 

command of the Queen-Dowager; but notwithstanding 

he would not receive us at first. But some hard words 

made the man very smooth and civil. The first King 

of Efat is reported to have been born in Amad-Washa. 

Faris, the King of Gondar, who resided for some time 

at Dair, a stronghold in the neighbourhood of Amad- 

Washa, had a daughter of the name Sanbalt, who was 

married to a Governor, by whom she had a son called 

Negassi. This was the first Shoan King, who governed 

first the district of Agaucha, of which Amad-Washa 

was the capital at that time. Faris retm'uedto Gondar, 

while Negassi his grandchild, having made himself in- 

dependent of him, prosecuted other schemes by taking 

from the Gallas the countries of Ajabar, Tarmabar, and 

the places around. His successors increased their 

dominions in the same way of conquest, by defeating 

and expelling the Gallas, and by uniting other Chris- 

tian provinces, which w^re at that time almost indepen- 

dent of Gondar. Thus, if this account is correct, the 

descent of the Shoan Kings from the royal blood of 

the ancient line of the Abyssinian Kings is incontesta- 

ble. Certain it is, that Sahela Selassieh considers 







DISTRIBUTION OF THE SCRIPTURES. 313 



Agancha his hereditary portion on account of his an- 

cestor Negassi. 



March Q, 1842 — Before starting, I distributed a few 

copies of the Amharic Scriptures among the priests of 

the village. They accepted them with many thanks, 

and made no objection against their being in Amharic. 

On a strict inquiry, I found that very few copies of our 

Amharic Bibles had reached these distant districts of 

the Shoan realm ; and I determined to send a supply 

hither, on my return to Ankobar. 



About seven o'clock we started from Amad-Washa, 

accompanied by the son of the Governor. He showed 

me, on the road, the Church of the Four Animals — Arrat 

Ensesa — an appellation which alludes, beyond all doubt, 

to the four animals of Ezekiel i. About nine o'clock 

we began to descend into a defile, amidst the greatest 

difficulties. On descending, we found a spring of very 

delicious water. AVhen I approached to refi'esh myself, 

I was told that it was a Tzabale, or holy spring, which 

you can only enjoy on the Anniversary of the Saint 

who has blessed the water. I was also told, that, on 

this account, a large serpent watched in the inside of 

the spring, and bit all those who drank of the water at 

an improper time. I replied, that I did not care for 

any contrivances of the monks or priests in order to 

mislead the ignorant, and took a good draught of the 

water. I then asked the frightened bystanders why 

the serpent had not bit me. They had nothing more 

to say, than that the serpent would not bite good people. 



p 







314 THIl RIVER KATCHENEE. 



The banks of this defile are so steep and high, that 

the natives would be able, by throwing stones upon 

the invaders, to check a whole army. I can now con- 

ceive why his Majesty has so little fear of any enemy 

approaching from the north of his territories. As 

this is the principal pass and entrance into the centre 

of Shoa, and as this defile is almost impassable, at 

least for any Abyssinian army in the present state of 

military system, the King has really nothing to fear 

so long as the Governor of Dair is attached to his 

interests. 



Having descended about 3000 feet, we arrived at 

the bed of the river Katchenee, which separates the 

province of Mans from that of Geshe. This river 

rises near Aiamsa in the Annas mountains, in the 

north-east of Shoa. The Katchenee is afterward 

called Wonshit, which falls into the Jamma, that 

famous river so frequently mentioned. The whole 

bed of the Katchenee, from one bank to the other, is 

about eighty feet in breadth ; but the real bed of the 

stream is only about twenty-five feet, the whole bed 

being only full during the rainy season. In this bed, I 

found the Thermometer, about mid-day, 90° Farenheit 

in the shade. The place where we crossed is frequently 

endangered by the Wollo Gallas, who being close on 

the opposite side of the river, follow its bed to this 

passage, where they plunder travellers, particularly in 

the evening. The Katchenee is joined below by the 

rivers Ketama and Woia, which come from the north 









• / 

ARRIVE AT DAIR. ~ 4,'^^ I. "' 315 







of Shoa. The junction takes places in the north- 

west of Dair, of which I shall speak presently. 



The province of Geshe was formerly in the hands 

of an independent prince of the name of Ausabie, 

who was taken prisoner by Asfa-Woossen, the grand- 

father of Sahela Selassieh. A lady of the name of 

Wooshama was in favoui- with Ausabie. Asfa-Woossen 

knowing this, sent her valuable presents, in order that 

she might deliver over the prince treacherously. She 

called Ausabie to her, captured him, and sent him to 

Asfa-A^'^oossen, who immediately took possession of his 

capital of Dair and his whole territory. Many strong- 

places have thus fallen by means of female craft ; and 

it must also be mentioned, that the Shoan power has 

increased by female assistance. To this day his Shoan 

Majesty marries the daughters of chiefs whom he wants 

to bring over to his side by means of family bonds. 

Lately he went so far as to solicit a marriage with one 

of the princesses of England; but of course this 

singular idea was objected to by Captain Harris, Her 

Majesty's Representative in Shoa. 



About three o'clock we arrived at Dair, the seat of 

the Governor of the frontier. This Governor is ordered 

to be vei-y particular in admitting strangers to the 

stronghold. We therefore had to wait some time 

before we were admitted to his presence. His house 

is built on the top of a hill, which forms a complete 

mass of rocks, the banks of which resemble perpen- 

dicular walls, several hundred feet in height. There 



P 2 







316 PLUNDERING HABITS OF THE GALLAS. 



is only one way which leads to the top of the hill, and 

this is attended with great difficulties. They have water 

on this hill, and are able to plough a considerable ex- 

tent of field. No Abyssinian force is able to conquer 

this stronghold. 



A number of people going to Gondar were waiting 

for my arrival in Dair ; but they were immediately 

ordered by the Governor to start, lest they might 

trouble me. They left their good clothes at Dair, and 

wore rags and sheep-skins over their bodies, being 

apprehensive of the Gallas, who plunder almost eveiy 

one they see with a good dress. They were ordered to 

go through the territory of Abie, a Wollo Galla Chief- 

tain, with whom the King of Shoa has been at enmity 

for many years. Each individual must pay a piece of 

salt to this Chieftain as passage money. This is the 

reason why he allows the Shoan subjects to pass 

through his country, though he is at enmity with the 

King of Shoa. The road to Gondar through the 

territory of Abie is much shorter ; but people carrying 

valuable property can never take this route, nor will 

they be permitted by the King of Shoa to expose 

themselves to the plundering Gallas on this road. TVTaen 

talking with the King about my road, he told me that 

Abie would plunder and perhaps kill me; and therefore 

he would send me through the territory of Adara Bille, 

the Chieftain of the tribe Lagga Ghora, with whom he 

was in friendship. The King, as well as myself, did 







VISITED BY ALACA DEBILLE. 317 



to know at that time, that this so-called friend of his 

Majesty would totally plunder me. 



March 7, 1842 — Having been requested by Habta 

]lichacl, the Governor of Dair, to rest a day or two 

with him before I left the Shoan territory, I complied 

with his kind wish. In the coui'se of the day I made 

preparations for my joui-ney through the AVollo country, 

arranging my baggage in an easier and better manner. 

In the morning I was visited by Alaca Bebille, who 

has been a friend of mine for some time, and who was 

now retm'ning to his country, the island Debra-Gagood- 

gooad, in the lake Haik. He promised to take me to 

the lake if I wished to go there ; but I declined, as 

my jom-ney to Gondar would be delayed. I did not 

know then that Adara Bille would plunder me, and 

that necessity would compel me to visit this lake. In 

general I had not the least fear of being robbed, as I 

was strong enough to repel an attack of robbers who 

should venture to enter into an engagement with me in 

the open field. That Adara Bille would plunder me in 

his house by means of an artifice, how coidd I suppose 

this? 



I called upon the Governor of Dair in the course of 

the day ; but as he was hearing causes, I could not 

converse much with him. He again expressed his 

thanks for the Amharic and iEthiopic books which I 

had given him yesterday. I begged him to give me a 

man to introduce me to Adara Bille, the Chieftain of 

Lagga Ghora, as the servants of the King and Zcnama- 







318 VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR OF DAIR. 



Work wanted to return from Dair. He promised to 

give whatever I should request. 



Whenever I went to the Governor's house on the top 

of the hill — my tent being pitched at the foot of it — I 

had great difficulty in finding my way through the 

numerous guardians of the stronghold. They have 

the strictest orders from the King to stand upon their 

guard with unrelenting punctuality. I understood 

from good authority that his Majesty bribes the watch- 

men, who are appointed by the King in a lineal suc- 

cession of their families, to keep a sharp eye on all the 

proceedings of the Governor himself. The Governor 

therefore must be on the best terms with these watch- 

men, and he must overlook much rudeness which they 

commit toward strangers. A few years ago these 

watchmen successfully contrived to dismiss a Governor 

whom they disliked, by insinuating to his Majesty 

that the Governor intended to declare himself indepen- 

dent^ and to join the party of his Majesty's enemies, 

in order to obtain his objects. 







CHAPTER 11. 







DEPARTURE FROM DAIR — VILLAGE OP GOLTA — ENTER THE COUNTRY 

OF THE WOLLO GALLAS — THEIR CHARACTER — MOUNTAINS OP THE 

WOLLO COUNTRY — ARRIVE AT GATIRA — INTERVIEW WITH ADARA 

BILLE — FRIENDLY RECEPTION — LEAVE GATIRA — NOTICES OF BERROO 

LOOBO, THE CHIEF OF WORRA KALLO — ARRIVE AT NEGASSI DATCH — 

VISIT THE GOVERNOR, SIDI MUSIE — HIS SUSPICIOUS BEHAVIOUR — 

LEAVE NEGASSI DATCH, AND ENTER THE TERRITORY OF CHARSO — 

PERILOUS SITUATION — ARRIVE AT TANTA, THE CAPITAL OF WORRA 

HIMANO— KINDLY RECEIVED BY THE CHIEF, IMAN LIBAN— POPULA- 

TION OF TANTA — EXTENT OF THE TERRITORY OF IMAN LIBAN — 

DEPARTURE FROM TANTA, AND ARRIVE AT THE RIVER BASHILO — 

BERROO ALIGAS, GOVERNOR OF WADELA, ATTACKS THE TERRITORY 

OF IMAN LIBAN — MR. KRAPF IN CONSEQUENCE RELINQUISHES HIS 

INTENTION OF PROCEEDING TO GONDAR, AND RETREATS TOWARD 

GATIRA — REASONS FOR PREFERRING THE TADJURRA ROAD TO THAT 

OP MASSOWAH — MARKET OF TOTOL A— RETURN TO GATIRA — INTER- 

VIEW WITH ADaRA BILLE— his HYPOCRITICAL PROFESSIONS OP 

FRIENDSHIP — HIS TREACHEROUS AND COWARDLY TREATMENT OP 

MR. KRAPF, WHOM HE ROBS AND IMPRISONS — PROVIDENTIAL 

DELIVERANCE OF MR. KRAPF. 



March 18j 1842 — I left Dair about eight o'clock 

with very peculiar feelings, as I was now on the frontier 

of Shoa, and a long and dangerous way was before 

me. Descending from Dair into the bed of the river 

Waiat, which separates the Wollo country from Slioa, 

I deeply sighed for the assistance of Him in whose 

hands are also a savage-like people. On reaching the 







320 DEPARTURE FROM DAIR. 



bed of the river we took au easterly direction^ following 

the course of the river. The Shoans are particularly 

afraid of the place where we crossed, as the Wollo 

Gallas frequently descend from their movintains, and 

lurk in the high grass of the passage of the river. 

Only a fortnight ago there were fifteen men killed, 

when the Wollos came to an engagement with the 

Shoans at this spot. 



We had scarcely crossed the river, when the Wollo 

Gallas set up a cry on their hills around, most probably 

believing that the Shoans had come to make an attack 

on their country. They must have observed our large 

party of men and animals. We had taken the greatest 

care to avoid the discharge of a gun, although there 

was game in abundance, particularly birds which I had 

never seen before in Shoa. We drove on our animals 

as quick as possible, in order to leave this dangerous 

spot behind us. We were fortunate enough to reach 

the district Mesaraser before the Wollos of Abie had 

assembled in any number. About four o^clock p. m. 

we reached the village of Golta, where the petty Go- 

vernor of ]Iesaraser resides. This district was con- 

quered a few years ago by the brave Ayto Samma Ne- 

goos, then Governor of Geshe. The poor man is now 

in prison on account of his bravery. He killed in bat- 

tle the son of Berroo Loobo, the ruler of Woora Kallo. 

His Majesty declared that he had not ordered his Go- 

vernor to fight with Berroo Loobo, and put him into 

prison. The petty Governor of Mesaraser is under the 







ENTER THE WOLLO GALLA COUNTRY. 321 



Governor of Dair. He received us well^ providing us 

with every tiling we wanted. As he was suffering from 

an inflammation of his eyes, he requested me to provide 

him with some medicine, which I readily gave him, 

applying an eye-wash of zinc. 



March 19, 1842 — The servants of the King and of 

Zenama-Work took leave of us at Golta. I entrusted 

them with letters to Capt. Harris and his Majesty, in- 

forming them how far I had advanced on my journey to 

Gondar. I started from Golta after seven o'clock. Our 

direction was north-north-east. After half an hour's 

walk we entirely left the Shoan territory, and entered 

the territory of the Wollo Gallas. The boundary of the 

Shoaii territory is marked by a fence and ditch, which 

separates the Shoan dominions from the frontier of the 

Wollo Gallas. This ditch secures the steep road against 

a sudden attack. After we had passed this fence and 

ditch, we soon came to the first Wollo village, which 

is in the tribe of Lagga Ghora, the first Wollo tribe 

through which our road led us. This tribe is depen- 

dent on the Chieftain Adara Bille. The Governor of 

the village came out to see us. He offered us some 

refreshments, which we refused to accept, saying, that 

we were in a great hurry to reach Gatira, the capital of 

Adara Bille, before the evening. He than gave me, at 

ray request, a servant to introduce me to his master 

Adara Bille. It is the duty of Adamie-Dima — the 

name of the Governor of the village — to receive 

•strangers, and to conduct them either to Dair or to 



p 5 







323 ADARA BILLE DEPENDENT ON RAS ALT. 



Adara Bille, if they come from Shoa. In the west of 

om- road was the river Shotalmat^ which separates the 

tribe Lagga Ghora from that of Laggambo, which is 

governed by the Chief Amade. The first district of 

Adara Bille's territory^ in which we had entered, is 

called Shanghiet. His whole territory is considerable, 

and Adara Bille himself has the name of a brave 

warrior. 



Adara Bille is nominally dependent on Ras Ali, who 

claims the whole country of the Wollo Gallas. Adara 

was the name of his father, his own name being Bille ; 

but it is customary to mention the name of the father 

and son together. — Adara Bille is commonly called 

Abba-Daghet. The meaning of this word is, " father 

of height." lliis name has reference to his favom'ite 

horse, which has the same name, as the horse carries 

the Chief victoriously over all heights. It is customary 

in Abyssinia, particularly among the Gallas, to call a 

Chieftain according to the name of his horse. After 

we had left the village of Adamie-Dima, we had a 

pretty plain road. Though there are very mountain- 

ous regions among the Wollo tribes, yet the general 

character of their country is plain and level. But it 

must be remarked, that the country of the Wollo 

Gallas is not so productive as that of the Pagan Gallas 

in the south of Shoa. The Wollo country is high 

land, and therefore the temperature is different from that 

of the southern tribes. These are richer in horses, cattle, 

and grain. 







CHARACTER OF THE WOLLO GALL AS. 323 



The WoUo Gallas are very bigoted aud fanatic Ma- 

homedans ; but the GaUas in the south of Shoa are 

Pagans, and a better set of people. The Mahomedan 

rehgion has added a great deal to the depravity of the 

Wollo Gallas ; their corruptions being great enough 

when they were still Pagans. A principal trait of their 

character is, outward friendliness and civility, with 

which they cover their inward artfulness. They them- 

selves confess that a Wollo Galla is to be compared 

with a hyseua. Another trait of their character is, 

pei-fidiousness and rapacity. A Wollo Galla will seldom 

keep his word, and will be always most desirous of 

getting yoiu- property. Their connexion mth Gondar, 

and Northern Abyssinia in general, has made them ac- 

quainted with many things unknown to the Southern 

Gallas; but the acquaintance of a savage with any 

valuable article n\ almost always lead him to possess 

himself of that article by any means. The Wollo 

Gallas, longing particularly for property, will seldom 

kill a stranger ; while the Southern Gallas, being less 

fond of propei-ty, would kill you, if you had not been 

made the ]Iogasa or favourite of a Chieftain. 



The Wollo Gallas are much engaged in saying pray- 

ers and in blessing the country. They observe a cus- 

tom which I have never seen with other Mahomedans. 

They assemble early in the morning, say their prayers, 

take coffee, and Tohjid (sort of tea), and smoke tobacco. 

This ceremony is called Wodacha. It lasts on Wed- 

nesday and Friday till after midday. They beheve 







324 MOUNTAINS OF THE WOLLO GALLAS. 



that they receive revelations from Allah (God) on the 

Wodacha. On such occasions they particularly request 

from the Allah that he will give them cows, clothes, and 

whatever they want ; that their Chief may find gold 

and silver ; and that he may daily become stronger. 

I once heard them praying in this manner. 



On om* way this afternoon we could see a great deal 

of the territory of Berroo Loobo, the ruler of Worra 

Kallo. His territory forms almost a triangle from 

south-west to north and north-east. — The highest 

mountains of the Wollo country are Sako, Korkorra, and 

Yoll. We had all these mountains on our left. There 

is perpetual hail on Sako ; but no snow. The moun- 

tain is very high, and is seen from a great distance. 

Korkorra is not quite so high as Sako. E.as Ali en- 

camped on Korkorra when he intended to conquer 

Shoa ; but he was compelled to return, having been beaten 

by the Wollo Gallas, who fell upon his troops every 

where with their light cavalry. Yoll is still less high 

than Sako and Korkorra. On the western foot of Yoll 

is Mecana- Selassie, on which place the former rulers 

of Abyssinia had for some time their residence. This 

was probably the native place of Abba Gregorius, whom 

Mr. Ludolf frequently mentions in his Works. 



The Wollo Gallas are divided into seven houses or 

tribes; namely: Worra Himano, under the present Chief 

Iman Liban ; Worra Kallo, under the sway of Berroo 

Looboj Lagga Ghora, under Adara Bille,orAbbaDaghet; 

Tehooladere, under Amade, or Abba-Shaol ; Boranna, 







ARRIVE AT GATIRA. 325 



under Abba Damto; Laggambo and Charso^ under 

Aniade and Daood-Berille ; and Lagga-Hidda, under 

Assandoollo. 



About five o'clock p. m. we arrived at Gatira, the 

capital of Adara Bille. It derives its name from the 

juniper-tree, wliich is abundant here, and which, in the 

Galla language, is called Gatira. The river Gatu'a runs 

fi'om north-north-east toward south-west- west. This 

river is afterward called Shotalmat, when it separates 

the tribe Lagga Ghora from Laggambo. 



Ha^dng waited for a considerable time for an answer 

from Adara Bille regarding our reception, we were at 

last conducted to a large hoiise not far from the one in 

which he himself resided. They would not allow me 

to pitch my tent, as I had always done before on the 

road. As it began to rain just on our arrival, I did 

uot insist on pitching the tent, particularly as the 

rooms of the house which was given me were good. 

We were then honom'cd vnth. meat, beer, and hydromel 

in considerable quantity. A servant was sent by Adara 

Bille to attend and to inquire what more we wanted. 

Being much fatigued from the journey, I was about to 

go to bed, when Adara Bille sent for me immediately. 

Having never been called so late in Efat by any one, 

I felt uneasy at this call at night : however, I 

got up and went to the Chieftain with three of my 

servants. I was introduced into a small court-yard, 

and then into a large room, where I complimented him. 

He was sitting on a common Abyssinian bedstead. 







326 INTERVIEW WITH ADARA BILLE. 



covered with an old carpet. He was drinking and 

talking with his favom-ite people^ with whom he ap- 

peared to be more familiar than I have observed with 

great people in Shoa. His dress was a common Galla 

dress — a cloth of cotton — well done over with butter. 

When I approached him, he made a bow, as if I had 

been his superior. He used all sorts of complimen- 

tary words, and was in general so friendly, civil, 

and familiar, that I could not recollect ever having 

seen a Chieftain like Adara Bille. He ordered me 

to take a place on the ground by his side, and began 

to ask many questions. He asked how many gims 

the King of Shoa had received from the English ; and 

then asked about ships, waggons, manufacturing of 

guns, cloths, &c. His condescension made me as 

free in my expressions as if I had been speaking to 

an equal and not superior. His whole appearance gave 

me the best impression. Having talked with him a 

long time, I expressed the deshe of my going home ; 

whereupon he said, " Go ; you have now delighted me 

much with your conversation." 



The reception I had met with from Adara Bille 

pleased me so much that I was going to recommend 

him to the attention of his Excellency Capt. Harris, 

whether he might not be inclined to offer the English 

friendship to Adara Bille. The favom-able idea I had 

received of him was increased when I heard that three 

rulers around had sought for his friendship. The King 

of Shoa has lately given him forty-four allages in the 







FRIENDLY RECEPTION. 3.27 



province of Geshe, from which Adara Bille receives the 

annual tribute, for the purpose of securing the road 

between Shoa and Gondar. As the King of Shoa 

always sends his messages to Gondar, and as all other 

routes proved dangerous, he thought it prudent to gain 

Adara Bille over to his interest, by giving him such 

villages, the produce of which is most valuable to him, 

being the Tef, which does not grow in his own territory. 

Berroo Loobo, the ruler of Worra Kallo, in the east 

of Adara Bille's tribe, has given him his daughter 

Fatima in marriage, and several villages suitable for 

the cultivation of cotton, which cannot be cultivated 

in Adara Bille's cold country. Berroo Loobo has acted 

from political motives in granting so much to Adara 

Bille. He wished that this Chief should not join the 

King of Shoa, nor the western Wollo tribes in war 

expeditions against Worra Kallo. 



Imam Liban, the Chieftain of the large tribe of 

Worra Himano, likewise gave a few villages to Adara 

Bille to keep him in his interest. These villages are 

particularly fit for the cultivation of red pepper and 

wheat. This position of Adara Bille between three 

influential rulers, might, I thought, render hmi worthy 

of the British friendship, as he must be a powerful 

Chief. 



The territory of Adara Billets father was small ; but 

his warlike son has considerably extended it. Last 

year the western Wollo tribes almost expelled Adara 

Bille from his country ; but having again gathered an 







328 DISSENSIONS OF TOE WOLLO GALLAS. 



army, he completely defeated the invaders, and took 

possession of a part of the tribe Laggambo. 



The Wollo Gallas by no means agree together. Only 

Adara Bille and Berroo Loobo, the Chiefs of the two 

eastern tribes, join together in friendship ; but all the 

others are quarrelling among themselves. These dis- 

sensions of the Wollos are extremely subservient to 

the cause of Shoa and Gondar. If the Wollo tribes 

were all united, the rulers of Shoa and Gondar woidd 

be scarcely able to repulse them, as their cavalry is very 

numerous and the best in Abyssinia. The acknow- 

ledgment of Ras Ali by the Wollos is only nominal, 

and a mere custom of old, although Adara Bille, 

Berroo Loobo, and Imam Liban assist the Has with 

troops. 



Ha'ing yesterday acquainted Adara Bille with my 

intention of going to Gondar, to see the Has and the 

new Abuna, I repaired early to him, thanked him for 

his hospitality, and took leave of him. At the same 

time I presented to him a valuable shawl which I had 

received from Capt. Harris, and some trifles of my own. 

He was extremely grateful, and begged me to make 

him a particular friend, as he would do all that he 

could for me. He gave me, at my request, a man to 

introduce me to Imam Liban, the Chief of Worra 

Himano, through whose territory the road would lead 

me to Gondar. I then walked off, thinking that I had 

gained his sincere and lasting fi-iendship ; but in this I 

was miserably disappointed, as will be seen afterward. 







DEPARTURE FROM GATIRA. 329 



"We set out from Gatira about eiglit o'clock, accom- 

panied by a servant of Adara Bille, and the servant of 

the Governor of Geshe, who was returning to his 

master. Our direction was precisely north. On our road 

we could see more and more of Berroo Loobo's territory 

of Worra Kallo. iIy guide pointed out two hills, on 

which BeiToo's two capital towns, in which he ge- 

nerally resides, are built ; viz. Ajm-amba and Gof. 

Berroo's country appears to be hilly ; but at the same 

time with large plains between the hills. I saw par- 

ticularly one range of mountains, which is eddcntly 

the continuation of the Efatian range, of which I am 

obliged to make frequent mention. Tlie eastern fron- 

tier of Berroo Loobo's country is the territory of the 

Adels and that of Imam Faris, who resides in Gherfa. 

The northern part of Worra Kallo is bounded by the 

tribe Tehooladere and by Worra Himano. The south 

is bordered by Shoa, and the west by the tribes of 

Adara Bille and Lagga Ghora. 



Berroo Loobo is not on good terms with the King 

of Shoa, since the Shoans, under A)i:o Samma Ncgoos, 

Governor of Geshe, have killed his eldest son Ali. 

Berroo has now only one son left, whose name is 

Amade, and who has the reputation of being a brave 

warrior. About nine o'clock we passed through the 

districts of Googooftoo and Akale in the territory of 

Adara Bille. In Akale we had a high and ])rctty view 

backwards of the provinces of Geshe and ]Mans. I 

saw this morning the sheep with the skin called Lovisa. 







330 SHEEP OF THE WOLLO COUNTRY. 



The country of the Wollos is its native country. I 

have ah'eady mentioned that this kind of sheep wants 

a cold cHmate, like that of the Wollo Gallas. The 

people take the greatest care of this animal, feeding it 

with roasted barley and other food. But they take 

care lest it should get too fat, as then its hair would 

fall off. At home it is placed on a bedstead and cleaned 

every day with water. Its hair, which is of a black 

colour, is a cubit or more in length. The skin, which 

is of a good quality, is sold for ten or twenty-five 

pieces of salt. The warriors, who principally wear this 

skin, have a very savage appearance in it. 



Berroo Loobo's father was Wati, a Shocra or weaver, 

who married the daughter of Endris, the Governor of 

Gof. Berroo was educated at the court of Imam 

Liban, the son of Amade, the son of Has Gooksa. 

Imam Liban had a son who was also called Amade, 

and who was the father of the present young Imam 

Liban, of whom I shall speak afterward. When the 

great Liban was dead, Berroo fell into favour with his 

son Amade, who made him Governor of Worra Kallo. 

He then expelled Ali, the son of Endris, from the 

country of Gof, in the possession of which he was con- 

firmed by his superior and friend Amade. Berroo is 

almost entirely independent ; but he prefers to keep up 

some show of dependence on the descendants of Has 

Gooksa. He fi-equently sends his contingent to the 

troops of Ras Ali, who would assist him if the King 

of Shoa or the other Wollo Gallas should become too 







ARRIVE AT NEGASSI BATCH. 331 



strong for him, Amacle, the father of the present 

Imam Liban, intended to attack Shoa ; but his subse- 

quent death prevented hira from executing this plan. 

Notwithstanding, the King of Shoa having heard of 

his death, sent 100 dollars for a Tescar (festival for 

priests and other people after a funeral), and sohcited 

the friendship of his son, the present Imam Liban. 



About two o^clock we arrived in the district Negassi 

Datch, where we went to the house of Sidi Musie, a 

Governor of Adara Bille. As he was not at home on 

om' arrival, wc did not ventm*e to quarter om-selves in 

his house ; but I pitched my tent as I was accustomed 

to do. When he came, I complimented him, and re- 

quested him to assist us as long as we should reside 

here ; but having gazed at me for a few moments, he 

went into his house, -without doing or promising to 

do any thing for us. He then came out again, sat 

down in my tent, and asked what I had in my 

boxes. I said, " You are not ordered by Adara Bille, 

your master, to inquire after the contents of my boxes; 

but that you should assist and make me comfortable." 

He would not however do anything for us till I gave 

him a razor and some other trifles. We could not buy 

any thing in the neighbourhood, as the villages were 

far off, and as I did not like that my servants should be 

scattered abroad in case of any serious occurrence or 

occasion for self-defence. 



Wc had a very distant view from Negassi Datch. 

We saw from hence the high mountain Anxbassel, be- 







332 VISIT THE GOVERNOR. 



tween Tehooladere and Yechoo. The stronghold of 

Ambassel was for a long time in the hands of Gove- 

nors who ruled by succession ; but the son of one of 

these Governors fell in love with a woman residing 

below in the plain. The father having consented to 

his son's marriage, arranged the solemnities, which were 

to be celebrated in the plain below. All the people of 

the fortress, except the old father, went down ; but the 

father of the bride killed them all. He then went up 

to the stronghold, killed the old Governor, and took 

possession of the mount for himself and his descen- 

dants. The present Governor of Ambassel is Ali 

Boroo, a Mahomedan. I have already stated that 

many strong places in Abyssinia have been treacherously 

delivered by female artfulness. 



March 21, 1842 — As Sidi Musie, our host, had from 

the very beginning of our stay withhim, given undoubted 

signs of suspicion, I had given orders to my people to 

watch by turns dm-ing the night. Sidi Musie always 

wanted to know what was in the boxes, and had declared 

that we should sleep free from all cares and apprehen- 

sions, as he and his people would come to my tent and 

watch the whole night. As he repeated from time to 

time his desire of watching, I positively refused, say- 

ing, that we would watch ourselves ; and protect our own 

property against any attack that might be made upon 

us during the night. As he doubted whether we could 

defend ourselves, I showed him the use of om' guns, 

which frightened him so much that he would not come 







LEAVE NEGASSl DATCII. 333 



near us again. About midnight my watchman observed 

a great disturbance in the house of the Governor. His 

people went around my tent from time to time in order 

to ascertain whether we were asleep or not. They always 

pretended; when they were asked by the sentry, that 

they had some business in the jungle. We got up in 

an instant with om* fire-arms. The whole proceeding of 

this people and of the Governor convinced me that they 

would certainly have plundered us if they had not been 

in fear of our weapons, and if we had not watched the 

whole night. The servant of Adara Billc had left us 

and slept in the house of the Governor, with whom he 

never exerted himself in our favour. INIost likely he in- 

tended to have a share in oui* property, which they had 

schemed to plunder. 



We left Negassi Datch with sun rise. Upon starting 

we were suiTOunded by the Governor's servants, who 

demanded a present with great noise, as we had been 

in the house of a great king. I replied, " Your master 

is a servant of Adara Bille, and no king, as you say : 

besides, you have done nothing to deserve a reward on 

my part. 1 have given a present to your master, and 

he has done veiy little for me." This answer so en- 

raged them, that it was evident they would have plun- 

dered us on the spot, if they had not been afraid of 

exposing themselves to the effect of our small and large 

shots, with which they had seen us loading our guns. 

Besides, they were so afraid of the bayonets and the 

muskets which I had received from his Excellency the 







334 ENTER THE TERRITORY OF CIIARSO. 



Ambassador^ that they would not even touch them for 

fear of being poisoned. The report had been spread in 

Shoa and around, that the EngUsh bayonets are poisoned 

like arrows. Our direction was north-west-west. 



About eight o'clock we left the territory of Adara 

Bille, and entered the territory of the tribe Charso, 

which is dependent on the Chieftain of Laggambo. 

The Governor of Charso is Sadetanka, who is well known 

from his plundering those merchants who venture to go 

through his country. As his capital, Manta-Wodel, 

was close to the road, we made all possible haste to 

pass by this dangerous spot. But we afterward fell 

in with one of his Governors^ Ensenne, as I shall show 

in the course of this day. 



I must confess that I seldom felt my mind so un- 

easy as on the road this day, and my heart was, like 

Moses of old, crying in secret to Him, who is the leader 

and warden of his distressed Israel. It is true, I had 

all the materials with which to make an honourable 

defence; but as a messenger of peace, I could scarcely 

make use of my weapons against the life of my fellow- 

creatures, though I am convinced that every body is 

allowed to make his self-defence in a proper way. I 

therefore begged the Lord not to lead me into tempta- 

tion for the sake of His Holy Name. You can scarcely 

conceive how precarious my situation was. I shall 

never forget the dark and painful feelings with which 

I travelled to-day through the territory of Sadetanka. 

What would our friends at home feel, if they could 







SUPERSTITIOUS NOTIONS. 335 



know for a moment the clangers, difficulties, sorrows, 

and privations, in which a Missionary abroad is some- 

times placed ! They would certainly be more earnest 

in prayer for the Mission cause. But the comforts at 

home make them too easily forget the distressing situa- 

tion of their friends travelling in a savage country. 



About nine o'clock we had the misfortune to lose our 

road, as our guide either did not or would not know the 

exact way to the territory of Worra Himano. "^^Tien 

we asked the country people, they led us to the road in 

which we should have fallen into the hands of their Chief, 

though they cunningly concealed this from our know- 

ledge. These people troubled me much with the ques- 

tion, whether I coidd make rain, or foretel from the 

stars when they would have rain. I directed them to 

Him, in whose hands is heaven and earth, and who will 

give us all that we want for our temporal welfare, if we 

first seek for the real welfare of om* souls through faith 

in Jesus Christ, our only Saviour and Mediator. My 

servants told me on this occasion, that Sidi-Music 

had asked them yesterday evening, whether I did 

not know from the observation of the stars what would 

happen to me. 



About ten o'clock we passed a place called Oatara, 

where Ras Ali had his camp last year, when he was 

attacked by the Wollo Gallas and lost several detacli- 

ments. From this point we descended into a difficult 

defile, where I saw many beautiful birds ; but we did 

not venture to discharge a gun, as this would have 







336 PRECARIOUS SITUATION. 



been the signal for a general assembly of the inhabi- 

tants around. We descended as quietly and as quickly 

as possible. We forgot eating and drinking on this 

most beautiful spot, as we expected every moment an 

attack from the rapacious inhabitants. 



About twelve o'clock we met on our road about thii'ty 

soldiers of the Governor Ensenne, who were all armed 

with shields and spears, and had the appearance of at- 

tempting an attack on our Caffila, as they at first con- 

sidered us merchants. I instantly ordered five of my 

musketeers to march in front of our animals, while I 

was in the rear with the others. The soldiers imme- 

diately withdi'cw from the road, and gazed at our im- 

posing weapons. The bayonets particularly attracted 

their attention. They then sat down, most probably to 

consult what they should do ; but none of them ven- 

tured to molest or attack us, and it seemed as if they 

were more afraid of us than we of them. But now 

oiu' attention was directed to the village, which we saw 

at some distance before us on the way-side. I learned 

with the most painful feelings that there was the 

house of the famous robber Ensenne, a true companion 

of Sadetanka. I was told that he formerly resided 

on a neighbom'ing hill ; but that when he heard that 

several caffilas passed the road, without paying a visit 

to the robber dreaded so much, he had his house built 

close to the way-side. Of course no merchant will 

now venture by this road. Our situation was now 

extremely precarious, and I felt something of the wrest- 







PERILOUS SITUATION. 337 



liug which Jacob had before he met his brother Esau. 

I cousulted mth my men, whether we could not deviate 

from the road ; but this was found impossible, as we 

were sm-rounded on both sides by steep and impassable 

hills, and as in doing so, we should only have raised 

more the suspicion and rapacity of the inhabitants, and 

of the robber in particular. We resolved therefore to 

go on om- way and to risk every thing we could under 

the almighty guidance of Him who had brought us so 

far in safety. 



Having approached the house of the Governor En- 

senne, one of my people proposed to halt and see the 

robber in his lodging ; but I judged it better to pass 

bv the dangerous spot with all possible haste, because if he 

once saw om* persons and property, he might become 

desirous of possessing what we had. Happily the 

watchmen could not make out who we were, and so 

they did not stop us before the walls of the house, and 

we went on before they had time to inform their master 

of the passing by of an extraordinary stranger. The 

Governor, however, immediately sent his son with a few 

soldiers to prevent us going further, till he had heard 

some particulars of our })ersons and journey. At first 

I objected to halt ; but thinking that I had no right 

to refuse an inquiry of the lord of the country, I sat 

down under a tree, about 300 yards distant from his 

house. I then dispatched the servant of Adara Bille 

to give the Governor all the explanations that he wanted. 

I requested him to say that I should have called upon 



Q 







338 MESSAGE TO THE GOVERNOR. 



him if I had been acquainted with him for some time, 

and if I had not intended to reach before evening the 

territory of Adara Bille, which Imam Liban had given 

him among his tribe ; and that as he himself would 

be aware of the long distance I had still before me, he 

would allow me to go on, lest night should overtake me. 

The servant went while we rested under the tree in sad 

expectation of the answer of the Governor. His son^s 

attention was entii'cly directed to our guns, and he fre- 

quently asked how many men could be killed with one 

musket. The bayonets frightened him a great deal. 

After a considerable time the servant returned, saying, 

that Ensenne had sworn that he would not have al- 

lowed us to pass, if a servant of Adara Bille had not 

been with us. The servant told him, that he should 

have nothing to do with us, as we had so many 

dangerous weapons with us, that we could destroy him 

and his whole retinue in an instant. The son of En- 

senne retui'ned, and we proceeded on om* way. My 

servants could not refrain from saying, that it was God 

who had inclined the heart of that bad man to peace 

toward us. Other servants said, "The God of our 

master is good, and will not forsake us." 



Although we had got rid of Ensenne, yet we looked 

back from time to time, fearing he would change his 

mind in the mean time, and send a messenger request- 

ing us to return. We drove on our animals as quick 

as possible. To my astonishment they could stand the 

task, although for some days they had been much 







CROSS THE RIVER MELKA-CIIILLO. 339 



harassed, and had been travelUng since sl o'clock this 

morning. In one word, the Lord gave nie to understand 

that he had removed the difficuUies and not myself. 



About five o'clock we descended into the bed of the 

river Adella, which rises at the foot of Korkorra, and 

runs to the river Bashilo. It separates the territory of 

the tribe Charso from that of Laggambo. About six 

o'clock we crossed the river Melka-chillo, which comes 

from the mountain Sako, and separates Charso from the 

tribe Worra Himano. We were compelled to pass tlic 

night in the territory of Imam Liban, as we were almost 

certain of an attack if we rested in any other tribe. 



Having crossed the river Melka-chillo, where there 

is more security for travellers, its ruler being dependent 

on Gondar and a relation of Ras Ali, I proposed to 

sleep in the wilderness on the banks of the river, as 

there was plenty of grass for our starving animals, and 

plenty of wood and water. My people, however, 

would not consent to this proposal, having been frigh- 

tened too much during the day time. The night over- 

took us, and a heavy rain threatened to increase the in- 

conveniences of our situation. We had already marched 

from six o'clock in the morning till night-fall, and had 

not taken any food, and yet we had to go on still fur- 

ther, or rather totter, though we could not see any 

village in the neighbourhood. However, I found my 

consolation and joy in singing the German hymn, 

" Recommend thy ways and all thy sorrows to the 

fatherly care." 



Q 2 







310 ARRIVE AT TARTAR AMBA. 



It is quite impossible for our friends in Em*ope, and 

those who are so fond of reading travels, to conceive 

my feelings under such distressing circumstances. 

Separated from the whole world, exposed to dangers, 

indescribable difficulties and sorrows, we had to pro- 

secute our way in a hostile and inhospitable country. 

How miserable should I have been, if I had not known 

the fire-pillar, the almighty covenant-God, accompanying 

me with His invisible presence ! 



Having ascended a hill for a long time, without 

knowing where the road would lead us, we arrived, to 

our unspeakable joy, at the village of Tartar Amba, which 

Imam Liban had given to Adara Bille in sign of 

friendship. As the villagers were all asleep, we had 

some difficulty to find any one who would give us shel- 

ter against the falling rain, and still more who would 

give some refreshment to our party almost dying with 

hunger. After many vain endeavours and attempts at 

being received by the villagers, at last a Mahomedan^s 

heart was affected at hearing of our situation. He got 

up, gave us his house, and some bread and beer. Hav- 

ing refreshed myself with what our host had given in 

haste, I thanked my Heavenly Father for the infinite 

mercy He had given me this day, I lay dowTi as I was, 

on the ground, and fell asleep. 



March 22, 1842— We started from Tartar Amba 

veiy late, as our animals as well as ourselves wanted 

an unusual rest. Our direction was then north-west, 

and sometimes north. About eleven o'clock we passed 







ARRIVE AT TANTA. 311 



througli a large plain comitiy. To the east of our 

road were two steep single hills^ at a distance from each 

other of about one English mile. On each hill was a 

large village. These hills are called upper and lower 

Chiffa. They serve as strongholds in time of war, and 

against sudden inroads of the people of Laggambo and 

Charso into the territory of Worra Himano. 



About foiu' o'clock we reached Tanta^ the capital of 

Worra Himano, where Iman Liban resides. There is 

only one entrance to the village, which is secured 

against a sudden inroad by means of a ditch and 

wall. On arriving near this ditch we were ordered to 

halt, till my arrival had been announced to Imam Liban, 

who immediately gave orders that I should come and 

see him. On walking up the little hill on which the 

village is built, I was much annoyed by the multitudes 

of people gazing at me. ]Iost probably they had 

never seen a white man before. I had the satisfaction 

of meeting in the court-yard two messengers of the 

King of Shoa, who had been sent to Imam Liban on 

some business. They proved very useful to me in my 

proceedings with the Imam. 



On being introduced to the Imam, I found him sur- 

rounded by his favourite chiefs, of whom the eldest, as 

he appeared to me, and most influential, gave a reply 

to the wishes of health and happiness, which I had ex- 

pressed toward the Chieftain. At the first moment I 

took this speaker for the Imam himself, till I was cor- 

rected by my introducer, ^ ho pointed out a little figure 







343 INTERVIEW WITH 



in the corner of the room. I did not know at that time 

that the Imam Liban was only a boy of fourteen years 

of age^ and that he was still guarded by his Lators. 

He was nicely dressed in a large white Abyssinian 

cloth of cotton, with which he covered his face, so that 

I could scarcely get a sight of his features. He asked 

me about the country from whence I had come, and 

where I was going to. Then his chiefs asked promis- 

cuous questions regarding my own country, its customs, 

arts, &c. ; but in so hasty a manner, that I could scarcely 

finish one subject before they touched another. They 

were really like childi-en. They then presented me with 

a book, which a soldier of the Imam had captured in the 

last war of Ras Ali with Aubie in Begemeder. It was 

an Amharic copy of the four Gospels, printed by the 

Bible Society, and given by Mr. Isenberg to a soldier 

during his stay at Adowah. I read to them the 5th 

chapter of St. Matthew, and gave a few explanations, 

to which they listened with an attention which I did 

not expect from Mahomedans. It is highly gratifying 

to find, that the seed of eternal life, which has been 

spread over Abyssinia by our Mission in Tigre, has been 

carried to the remotest provinces to which a Missionary 

has scarcely access, and we may confidently trust, that 

this seed, which we in our short-sightedness consider 

as lost, will exhibit some rejoicing fruits at the great 

day of revelation. May we therefore continue om* un- 

wearied exertions to our poor Abyssinian fellow-crea- 

tures, in good hope, that our labours will not be in 

vain, as it is not our cause, but the Lord's ! 







IMAN LIBAN. 343 



Before leaving the Imam's room I begged him to 

give me some information about our road to Gondar, and 

to render me such assistance as I should require in 

going thi'ough his territory and beyond. He replied^ that 

he was very sorry to inform me of the present insecu- 

rity of the road between his territory and Begemeder ; 

and that the robbers had endangered the way so much, 

that lately one of his own Governors on returning from 

the camp of Ras Ali had been attacked and compelled 

to fight his way throvigh a band of robbers, amount- 

ing to about two or three hundi-ed men. I replied, that 

I had ah-eady been made aware of the parties plunder- 

ing strangers near the river Checheho ; but that this 

intelligence, disagreeable as it was to me, would not 

prevent me from prosecuting my way, as I hoped that 

the robbers would not venture to attack my gunners. 

" Well then,'' he said, " if you beheve this, you shall 

ha^e my permission to start from here ; but I will at 

all events order my Governor at Daunt to conduct you 

beyond the river Checheho, where you will find the 

robbers less numerous, and where you will be able 

to make up your business with them by means of your 

guns." 



As the son of the Governor of Daunt, whose name 

is Karaioo-^Iaitcha, was in the room, the kind Imam 

ordered him to set out to-morrow, and to inform his 

father of his orders for my conveyance beyond the 

Checheho. I thanked him obligingly, and left the 

room. 







344 CONVERSATION WITH 



After I had pitched my tent, a servant was sent to 

attend me during my stay in Tanta. A large quantity 

of beer, hydromel, and bread was also brought. I had 

scarcely refreshed myself with a little of these provi- 

sions, when I was informed that the Imam was sitting 

on the wall opposite to my tent, and that he wished to 

see me in order to ask some questions. On going 

to him, he first asked me, whether the King of Shoa 

had really received muskets, cannons, and other valua- 

ble articles from the King of the White people beyond 

the Great Sea. I replied, that this was quite correct ; 

that the Queen of a great nation, called the English, 

had sent to the King of Shoa a Representative, 

with a present of 300 muskets, 100 pistols, two can- 

nons, and many other articles of great value — that the 

Queen, under whose protection I had the honour to be, 

had sent these presents as tokens of friendship, and 

not as tribute, because she paid tribute to nobody, 

while millions of people paid tribute to her — that the 

King of Shoa had sent letters to the Governor at Aden, 

in Arabia, who had acquainted the Queen with the 

desire of the King of Shoa to join in friendship with 

her; whereupon she had sent those presents — that 

though she possessed the greatest power, wealth, and 

happiness, yet she earnestly desired that all other na- 

tions should advance to the same state of happiness ; 

and although she feared nobody, yet she was concerned 

in promoting the welfare of all her fellow-creatures. 

She was, I added, particularly desirous of keeping up 







IMAX LIB AN. 345 



friendly terms with the Abyssinian rulers, of estabhsh- 

ing commerce and intercourse between Abyssinia and 

her subjects, and of promoting the knowledge of the 

countries of Abyssinia and beyond. 



The Imam was extremely attentire to what I said, 

and I behevc he would have given me a satisfactory 

answer, if I had attempted to soUcit his desire for the 

EngHsh fi-iendship ; but I cannot see how the English 

or any other Em'opeans could approach his country, as 

the avenues to it are extremely difficult to reach, and 

because he is not an independent Chieftain. I there- 

fore thought it prudent only to give him an idea of 

the character of Her IMajesty and of her subjects, and 

to solicit his kind treatment toward Eui'opeans in 

general. 



He then requested me to allow my people, who had 

been drilled a little by the English Artillery-men at 

Aukobar, to go through the military exercises of my 

country. I said, that I was no soldier, but a teacher of 

the Word of God, which was contained in the book 

which he had shown me this afternoon ; and that I was 

a Christian teacher, having been sent to Abyssinia to 

teach its inhabitants the true way to their eternal wel- 

fare, and not to teach them military matters, with which 

I was not acquainted. However, if he wished to see 

the militaiy exercises of my country, my people would 

show him, though they themselves did not know much 

about the matter, as I had only allowed them to be 

drilled as far as I thought proper, and as they might 

Q 5 







346 POPULATION OF TANTA. 



be useful to me in going through savage countries. 

Most of them managed the business so well in firing 

quickly and precisely, that the Imam covered his face, 

and exclaimed with astonishment, that no Abyssinian 

force could stand against a few hundred soldiers of my 

country. He then added, " You may go wherever you 

like, nobody will be able to rob you.^' 



Tanta is a small village, containing about 600 inha- 

bitants. A market is held here every week, and many 

articles are brought for sale. The people of "Worra 

Himano, though originally Gallas, seldom speak the 

language of the latter. I have observed this mth all 

the Wolla tribes through which I have come since I 

left Shoa. Most of the inhabitants speak the Amharic 

better than the Galla, and I have reason to suppose, 

that the Galla language will be entirely forgotten by 

the rising generation, as has been the case in the tribe 

of Tehooladere, where a few persons only understand 

the Galla-language. The continual intercourse of the 

Wollo Gallas with the Abyssinians in the north, and 

the Shoans in the south, seems to me to be the cause 

of this general reception of the Amharic among the 

Wollo tribes. But I doubt whether the western tribes 

are so advanced in the Amharic as the eastern tribes 

are, as these have less intercourse with the Abyssinians, 

and have been less dependent on the rulers of Gondar. 

Furthermore, I have observed, that the dialect of the 

Wollo Gallas is a little different from that of the Gallas 

in the south of Shoa. They have mixed up Arabic 







EXTENT OF THE TERRITORY OP IMAX LIBAX. 347 



and Amharic expressions with tlie pui'e Galla tongue, 

as we may expect from Maliomedans. It would not 

therefore signify if this Galla dialect were to be com- 

pletely extinguished in process of time, as the pure 

Galla will be preserved in the south and south-west 

of Shoa. 



The territory of Imam Liban extends itself pretty 

far, four or five days being reqmred to traverse it from 

west to east- The Imam is considered as defender of 

the INIahomedan faith, and Head of the IIahomedan 

party ; and this is the reason of the attachment which 

all these tribes entertain toward him. He is the Re- 

presentative of the ]Iahomedan power in Abyssinia. 

He is the Muhamedo, as they significantly call him. 

And this was another reason why I would not endea- 

vour to raise his desire for British friendship and assis- 

tance, as in my opinion the cause of civilization in 

Abyssinia and the countries beyond would rather lose 

than gain, if the British should support the INIahome- 

dan party, which would use its new strength to propa- 

gate the same system of bigotry and fanaticism with 

which they are infected, to all the other Galla-tribes 

which have not yet fallen into their hands. They would, 

if powerful enough, immediately exterminate Christi- 

anity in Abyssinia. ATierever they take a Christian 

district, they bm-n the churches and compel the inha- 

bitants to adopt ]Iahomedanism. 



The young Iman Liban has a countenance expres- 

sive of intelligence, and his manners and behaviour are 







348 . TAKE LEAVE OF IMAN LIBAN. 



pleasing. It seems to me that he will prove a brave 

warrior in the course of time. His conversation is en- 

gaging, though generally on the subject of war and 

war-like people. But it is possible that the present 

disturbances of Northern Abyssinia deprive him of the 

prospect and hope of future power, and assign to him 

the lot of insignificance, which is annually cast upon 

many of the Abyssinian rulers, who rise and vanish 

in a short time, as is the case with all earthly hap- 

piness. 



March 23, 1842 — Having selected a few pleasing 

things for the Imam, I went to present them to him, 

and take leave of him. The articles consisted of a colour- 

ed handkerchief, a pair of scissors, a razor, and a box of 

phosphoric matches. The last pleased him amazingly, 

and he expressed his sincere thanks. He took a fancy 

to my percussion-gun ; but with this I would not part. 

He has about 1000 match-lock-guns, as I learned from 

good authority. His army, which he can raise in a 

short time, is considerable ; but his revenues appear to 

be very scanty. The people are obliged to join the 

army whenever the Chieftain requires ; and as this oc- 

cupies a great deal of their time, they will not pay many 

other tributes. The soldiers must provide themselves 

with spears, shields, swords, and food during the whole 

expedition. The gunners only receive their weapons 

from the Chieftain. This is the case in Shoa and other 

Abyssinian provinces ; but in Tigre and Amhara, they 

have guns of their own. 







DEPARTURE FROM TANTA. 349 



All the Chiefs which I have at present seen, have less 

state than the King of Shoa, and their form of Go- 

vernment is much looser than that of Shoa. It is 

true, all other Abyssinian subjects can go wherever they 

like, can dress themselves as they like, and have more 

liberty in many respects ; but there is no province of 

Abyssinia where person and property is so much res- 

pected and secui'ed as in Shoa ; though in Shoa there 

is much despotism, people being limited by numerous 

restrictions and regulations. But after all, Shoa 

compared with the other parts of Abyssinia, has un- 

questionably the preference, though the Shoans cannot 

go where they like, dress as they like, &c. Robbeiy is 

seldom heard of in Shoa ; so that yoii are as secure on a 

journey as in Europe. If you should lose on the road 

such things as people dare not use, they will to a cer- 

tainty be restored to you, as the King would pimish 

any one who ventured to conceal them. It is true, 

that most of tlie restrictions of his Shoan Majesty are 

obstnicting to commerce and intercourse ; but it is to be 

hoped that with the increasing influence of the British 

this will be done away ; and in fact, his Majesty has re- 

moved many restrictions by the tenns of the treaty 

which he concluded with Capt. Harris, Her IVIajesty's 

Representative, on the 16th Nov. IS-ll. 



Having repeatedly expressed my hearty thanks to 

Imam Liban, I took leave of him. We started from 

Tanta about seven o'clock, accompanied by the son of 

the Governor of Daunt, the frontier of Imam's territory 







350 STRONGHOLD OF MAGDALA. 



in the west. Our direction was north-west- west. We 

had before us a long descent^ which caused us many 

difficulties. The son of Ayto Karaioo-Maitcha went 

before us, in order to inform his father that we should 

arrive at Daunt to-morrow. 



About eleven o'clock we reached the bed of a river 

running to the river Bashilo. The bed was dry, and 

water was only to be had in some places. We halted 

in the bed of the river till the greatest heat of the day 

was over. In the south-west of Tanta we saw the 

stronghold of Magdala. This is a high and large hill, 

resembling the form of a square, the banks of which 

are high and almost perpendicular. There is a plain 

on the top, with water and a field for cultivation, on 

which the Imam has a garrison and keeps his treasures, 

and in which he takes refuge when an enemy is too 

strong for him. No Abyssinian force could easily take 

this stronghold. There is only one entrance, which is 

in the east. About three o'clock we were overtaken by 

rain. We met many people going to the market of 

Tanta, which is held on Saturday. 



About four o'clock we arrived at the bed of the river 

Bashilo, which rises in the mountains of the Yechoo in 

the north-east, taking up most of the contributing rivu- 

lets and torrents of the countries around, and canying 

its water to the Nile between Godjam and Begemeder. It 

is a very fine river, with steep banks and a deep bed, 

between a range of mountains. It is upward of 100 

feet in breadth ; but its real water-course is only about 







TPIE RIVER BASHILO. 351 



thii*ty feet. Its depth was half a foot at the spot where 

I crossed. The preceding raiu may have increased it a 

little. Its curvities are numberless, as it must some- 

times take a circuitous way to receive a ri'ulet, which 

could not reach the Bashilo if this gatherer of the 

water-taxes would not go to it. The Bashilo gave me 

great pleasure in studying the natui'e of the countiy, 

and really there is nothing more interesting for a tra- 

veller than the study of rivers and mountains. 



As we could not reach the next village beyond the 

river Bashilo before night, a petty Governor, whose ac- 

quaintance I had made on the road, advised us to pass 

the night on the banks of the river, an advice which 

afterward proved useful. The only disadvantage of 

this stay was, that we could not get any provisions. 



March 24, 1842 — We started early from the river 

Bashilo as we had a long way before us to Daunt, where 

the Fit-Aurari (general of the advanced-guard) Karaioo- 

Maitcha, should receive and conduct us to Bcgemeder. 

But the way of Providence had put an end to our jour- 

ney, though we were only five days' journey from Gon- 

dar. From the river Bashilo we had to ascend a great 

deal tlirough a com])letc wilderness, the country having 

been abandoned by the inhabitants for many years. On 

arriving at the top of the mountain which we had been 

ascending, a large plain, called Dalanta, was presented 

to our view. This plain was rich in cattle, grass, &c. ; 

and all that we saw gave the appearance of the inliabi- 

tants possessing considerable wealth. But this weahh 







352 MR. krapf's relinquishes his intention 



however was to be put an end to ^'itll the occurrences 

of this day. Having traversed the plain on its south- 

western boundary, we descended to the road which 

should lead us to the house of Maitcha-Karaioo on 

the hill of Daunt, which we could distinctly see already. 

On a sudden we received the disagreeable and sad in- 

telligence, from people whom we met on the road, that 

Karaioo-Maitcha had been killed this morning j and 

that his son, who had been sent by the Imam on our 

account, had been imprisoned, in consequence of an 

attack which Berroo Aligas, the Governor of Wadela, 

had made upon the territory of Imam Liban. The 

people who gave us this news ran away in great haste, 

in order to secure their property on the plain of Da- 

lanta before the troops of Berroo Aligas should lay 

waste this plain. 



My people were now in great fear ; but I ordered 

them to go on, as perhaps this report might prove m- 

founded. We had, however, scarcely marched a few 

hundi-ed yards further, than we met a female relation 

of Imam Liban, who confirmed the truth of the intel- 

ligence. The lady had escaped fi-om Daunt as soon as 

the Governor had been killed and the soldiers of Berroo 

Aligas had taken possession of the place. She had 

only one male servant with her, and had been obliged, 

as she said, to leave aU her property and even their 

children to the enemy. On mentioning her children, 

she shed a stream of tears, and entreated us not to 

pursue our joui-ney any farther, but to return with her 







OF PROCEEDING TO GONDAR. 353 



to the Imam, as the ferocious sokliery of Berroo 

Ahgas would kill us, or at all events plunder us 

of our property. ATiile we were talking with the 

woman, we were met by other people who had taken 

flight. AVe therefore had no further doubts of the 

truth of the fact. There was now the difficult ques- 

tion, what we should do ; whether we should retreat, 

or go on. Most of my people advised a retreat in due 

time, and I myself was finally of that opinion, as we 

could not stand the chance of foixing our way through 

the plundering soldiers of Berroo Aligas. They were 

not the robbers whom we expected to find near the 

river Checheho, and whom we should most probably 

have been able to overcome, as they had no fire-arms ; 

but it would have been madness on our part to 

attempt a defence against the prevailing force of Berroo 

Aligas' gunners and cavalry. If we had defended our- 

selves, they would have killed us ; and if we had made 

no defence whatever, they would have plundered us. 

I therefore agreed with my people to a speedy retreat, 

as it is well known in Abyssinia, that an ap])roaching 

enemy runs in a short time over a large extent of coun- 

try ; and that if once the confusion has begun, you can- 

not even rely on youi- friends behind, as then every one 

does as he pleases. Thus we retreated with the greatest 

grief, as we were not far from Gondar, and as we had 

already overcome so many difficulties on the road. 

Had wc known that Adara Bille, whom we considered 

our greatest and best friend, would afterward plunder 







354 PLAIN OF DALANTA : 



US, we would have risked our way to Goudar by all 

means ; but who can tell what will happen to him on 

the morrow ! 



Having returned to the plain of Dalanta, some of 

my people advised to pass the night in one of the vil- 

lages, until we should learn whether the enemy would 

really come by the road on which we had retreated. 

But I strongly objected to this" plan, because, if the 

enemy once reached the plain, he could easily overrun 

the villages before we should be able to escape with our 

heavy baggage of books and tired animals. We there- 

fore left the plain and ascended to the hills, where we 

quartered ourselves with the same man whom I had 

providentially become acquainted with on the road yes- 

terday. There was no fear of our being attacked before 

night, as the steep banks of the hills would prevent the 

enemy's horsemen from galloping on. 



When we passed over the plain of Dalanta we found 

the whole population confused and perplexed. They 

had already heard of what had happened at Daunt. 

Eveiy body who had a horse was ready, if the enemy 

should approach, to take flight. Our host behaved 

veiy kindly. He gave us provision, without which we 

had been since yesterday. He was very busy in sending 

his cattle to the mountains beyond the river Bashilo, 

where the enemy could not catch them so easily. I 

asked, whether they would not make any resistance in 

favour of their present master, the Imam Liban. My 

host replied, that poor people never fought, as they 







PERPLEXED STATE OF THE INHABITANTS. 355 



would make submission to every one who could conquer 

the country. He added^ " The strongest shall be our 

master. Poor people think only of saving their cattle 

and not of saving theii* master^ who has to look out for 

himself." 



During the night I examined my luggage, in order 

to select those things which were heavy and which I 

could leave behind in case we should be obliged to leave 

the place in a hurry to-morrow. My mind was not a 

little excited at the thought of our being so near Gon- 

dar, and being obliged to return to Shoa. I could 

hardly believe that we were really on our retreat, and I 

had some hope that an occurrence would happen and 

lead us to the place of our destination. 



March 25, 1842 — After day-break we received the 

news that the enemy was advancing toward the plain of 

Dalanta. I was just considting with my host whether 

I should not send a letter and some presents to Beroo 

Aligas, and ask him for permission to go through his 

countiy, and for a safeguard as far as Begemcder. 

]Iy host agreed with me ; but the question was, who 

would take the letter and convey it through the plunder- 

ing army of Bcrroo Aligas. My Galla, named Bcrkie, 

oflFered to take charge of the letter. The letter was 

written, and the servant ready to start, when we learned 

that BeiTOO-Aligas himself had not yet arrived at Daunt, 

and that only his plundering advanced-guard was 

moving toward Dalanta. Under these circumstances I 

would not venture to expose my servant to the danger 







356 RETREAT BEYOND THE RIVER BASHILO. 



of losing his life, though I afterward wished that I 

had despatched the letter. 



We left our host and retreated beyond the river 

Bashiloj which we crossed, but not at the place we did 

the first time. Having crossed the river, we ascended 

a steep mountain with the greatest difficulties, and 

nearly lost some of our animals. We had already lost 

two horses of burden in crossing the Bashilo at the 

first time. Having arrived on the top of the mountain, 

we lost our road, as we had no guide with us, and as 

the whole country was a complete wilderness, though 

it might be beautifully cultivated. At last we arrived 

in the little village called Gembarghie, after having 

sufi'ered much from the fatigues of our going over the 

mountains. As we found a spring of water near the 

village, we pitched om* tent there, and still entertained 

the hope that we might be able to prosecute om- road 

to Gondar, though a circuitous way. I had agreed 

vdth my host that in case he should receive better 

news from Daunt, he should give me information of 

it ; but his messenger never reached me, nor did I hear 

anything more of my kind host. 



All our provisions, except coffee were gone, and very 

little could be procured in the village, though I oficred 

whatever payment they wanted. AVe had therefore no 

other choice than to look out for game with our guns. 

I passed a very restless night, being extremely dissatis- 

fied with my return ; but after all, what could I do 

against the dispensations of Providence ? 







MOUNTAINS OF BEGEMEDER. 357 



March 26^ 1842 — As no message from our host be- 

yond the river Basliilo had arrived^ I judged it best to go 

from Gembarghie to Tanta, and inquire of the Imam 

what I should do in my perplexing circumstances. We 

kept close to the territory of Daood-Berille, whose 

capital is Saint, which we could see from a distance 

pretty well. This man, who had it in his power to for- 

ward me to Gondar, has the reputation of being a 

robber ; and besides he was not on good terms with 

Imam Liban, without whose recommendation and pro- 

tection it was impossible to proceed to Daood-Bcrille. 



On our return from Gembarghie we had a pretty 

view of the course of the river Bashilo to the mount 

Samada, in the north-east of Godjam. The high 

mountains of Begemcder were also presented to our 

ievf j and Debra-Tabor, the capital of Has Ali, was 

pointed out to me by one of my servants who had 

formerly been there. As I would not return to Imam 

Liban in too great haste, I pitched my tent near the 

stronghold of Magdala before mentioned, and sent a 

messenger to the Imam, to ask his advice in my critical 

situation. In the mean time, I inquired whether there 

was any other road to Gondar except by way of Daunt 

and Saint ; but my inquiry was in vain. My messen- 

ger retm-ned without having seen the Imam, his whole 

court being in confusion and preparing for war. My 

man was like to be ])lundered and deprived of his cloth 

and mule by the Imam's o^^^l people. Under such 

circumstances, and the way being obstructed on all 







358 REASONS FOR PREFERRING 



sides, the best plan appeared to return to Shoa tliroiigh 

the territory of Adara Bille, on whose friendship and 

kindness I thought I could rely. 



In the evening we received the intelligence, that 

Berroo Aligas had been invested with the government 

of Daunt by Eas Ali, in consequence of the great 

services which Berroo Aligas had rendered to the 

Ras by his having captui'cd Ubea and his army. It 

would appear from this information, that Berroo Aligas 

had not attacked the territory of Imam Liban from 

enmity or a desire of increasing his power; but I 

doubted the truth of this intelligence, as Has Ali 

would have acquainted his relation, the Imam, before 

he had invested Berroo Aligas with the government or 

Daunt, which belonged to the Imam. It appeared to 

me, that the invader's party had pm*posely contrived 

this report, in order to protract or avert the measures 

which the Imam would take against the invading army. 

However, I thought proper to inquire of the Imam 

himself about this matter. Under these circumstances 

I compared the road from Ankobar to Tadjm'ra with 

that to INIassowah, and was led to the following con- 

clusions : — 



1. Although the climate from Ankobar to Massowah 

is superior to that of the Danakil country ; and 

although there is everywhere plenty of water, and a 

cool and healthy an* on the Massowah road, yet the 

Tadjurra road is more prefered by the traveller. 



2. It is true, that the difficulties arising from want 







THE TADJURRA ROAD. 359 



of water and excessive heat in the Danakil country are 

very great ; but you do not meet with the distui'bances 

which ahnost continually happen on the road through 

northern Abyssinia, and which either delay or consider- 

ably endanger your route. 



3. On the Tadjurra road you have only to agree with 

one guide and proprietor of camels, which will carry 

yom* baggage as far as Efat ; while on the Massowah 

road you pass from the hands of one Chieftain into the 

hands of anothei', each of whom wants a present for 

the assistance which he gives you. Besides, as there 

is no road for camels, you are obliged to procure your 

own beasts of bm-den, which cannot cany the same 

quantity of baggage which a camel can. 



4. These beasts of burden cannot stand a journey, 

which is almost three times farther from Ankobar, 

than that from Tadjurra. Yom* animals will die, and 

you will be exposed to many difficulties till you have 

procured others. 



These and other reasons led me to the conclusion, 

that the Tadjurra road is, notwithstanding its incon- 

veniences and difficulties, preferrable to the IMassowah 

road ; and that therefore the road from Tadjurra must 

be kept open and secured. 



The gi-eat services which Berroo Aligas, Governor of 

Wadela and a part of the Yechoo, has rendered to lias 

Ali consist in the follomng facts, which throw a light 

upon the present state of things in Northern Abyssinia. 

When the new Abuna — Abba Salama — had arrived in 







360 DEFEAT OF UBEA. 



Tigre, Ubea declared war against Ras xli, his master. 

Joined by Berroo, the son of Dejaj Goshoo, Governor of 

Godjam, he attacked the Ras in Begemeder, near Debra 

Tabor. The Has was completely beaten and compelled 

to take refuge in a convent of Wadela. But Berroo 

Aligas, who was absent with his troops during the 

battle, and did not know about the defeat of his 

master, made a sudden attack on Ubea's camp, who in 

the afternoon of the battle was overjoyed at his victory, 

and had given way to the excesses of intoxication. 

Ubea was captured in his tent, being quite intoxicated, 

and most of his troops were also imprisoned by Berroo 

Aligas, who was then assisted by those prisoners of 

Ras Ali who had in the morning fallen into the hands 

of Ubea. These were set at liberty, and imprisoned 

those who had captm'ed them in the morning. The 

Ras regained his power, while that of Ubea was totally 

overcome. During the captivity of Ubea, the Ras 

appointed Merso, the brother of Ubea, Governor of 

Semien and Tigre ; but the Ras was requested by the 

Abunas, who had taken Ubea's party and was imprisoned 

at the same time with Ubea, to set his friend at liberty. 

The Ras complied, and summoned Merso to restore 

his government to Ubea his brother ; but JNIerso refused 

to resign and submit himself to the orders of the Ras. 

Thus a new war arose between Merso — who had at first 

taken the party of the Ras till his brother was cap- 

tured — and Ubea, joined by the forces of the Ras. When 

the intelligence of Ubea's captivity arrived in Tigre, the 







RETURN TO IMAX LIBAN. 361 



people of this province chose a new Governor in the 

person of Balgadaraia, a grandson of Ras Wolda- 

Selassieh, who has the reputation of being a brave 

warrior and a kind master. But it is a question, whe- 

ther this new Governor of Tigre, who has to tight with 

many petty chiefs in Tigre itself, will be able to keep 

up his power, or whether he will be expelled by Ubea 

when he has settled his business mth his brother Merso 

in Semien. As Ubea is assisted by the Ras, I suppose 

Balgadaraia cannot stand the task of a war with both 

these. In the mean time the roads are considerably 

endangered. 



March 27, 1842 — We returned this morning to 

Imam Liban, who appeared to have been in great sorrow 

and apprehensions regarding myself. "SATien he saw 

me, he said, " You have done veiy well in returning to 

me, as you cannot go to Gondar under present circum- 

stances. If you Hke you can take your refuge with my 

Governor Joossoof on the stronghold of Hoait,* which 

my enemies w^ll not be able to conquer. In the 

course of a month you will be able to see whether you 

can again attempt your journey." I replied, that I 

could not take the part of any of the combatants, and 

that I would prefer taking any other route which he 

would recommend to me ; or if not, that I would 

return to Shoa. He said, " Just as you like ; but 1 



* This is a high hill on the junction of the river Basiiilo with another 

river, the name of which I have forgotten. The hill is situated in the 

uorth of Tauta. 







363 LEAVE TARTAR AMBA. 



cannot send you to Gondar, as all the roads will be 

closed for some time/^ It appeared that he wished 

to send me to Hoait, in order that my gunners might 

assist in the defence of the place ; but I would never 

have consented to this^ except under most perplexing 

circumstances. I learned afterward that the stronghold 

had been attacked by Berroo Aligas and his brother 

Faris, who joined him at the time of my retiu'n to 

Adara Bille, and that many men had been killed on 

both sides. 



I took leave of Imam Libau^ and retm-ned to Tartar- 

Amba, where Abba Gooalit, the Governor of Adara 

Bille's territory in Worra Himano^ received me well, 

and provided me with provisions, which had been very 

scanty for several days. 



March 28, 1842 — Abba Gooalit, our host, treated us 

kindly. He is a Christian. In general, there are 

many Christians in Worra Himano ; and I was told 

that there were many in former times before Amade, 

the father of the present Imam, by means of force and 

persuasion, converted a great number to the Maho- 

medan religion. If Berroo Aligas, who is a Christian, 

should now be victorious, the cause of jMahomedanism 

would receive a severe blow in Worra Himano. Abba 

Gooalit was civil, but at the same time a great beggar. 

He wanted a mule from me, though he saw that all 

my mules were for my own use and for my servants. 



We left Tartar Amba about sunrise, accompanied by 

a servant of xbba Gooalit. "NYe took great care to 







ATTEMPTS TO SUBJUGATE SIIOA. 3G3 



avoid going toward the territory of Ensenne^ the 

famous robber in the tribe Charso, which I have men- 

tioned before. AVe kept our route in the territory of 

Worra Himano, which is bounded on the north by 

Wadela and Yechoo, on the east by Tehooladere, on the 

south by Ben'oo Loobo's and Adara Bille's countries, 

and on the west by Begemeder. The people knowing 

that I came from Shoa, frequently asked me, how many 

ounces of gold I had received from the King of Shoa, 

it being the general opinion of the Abyssinians in the 

north ; that there is much gold in Shoa ; and that its 

king gives this metal to all strangers ; who leave his 

country. In some instances this report is true, as the 

king has given gold to some strangers, but Shoa is not 

the country where gold is found. Occasionally some 

may be found ; but the gold which comes to Shoa, is 

brought from Gm-ague and beyond, where it is found 

in the bed of rivers after the rain. But no Shoan 

subject is allowed to possess gold, which is only in the 

hands of the king, who would severely punish any of 

his subjects who had any, except the king himself 

had given it. 



The idea that Shoa was a rich gold country has in- 

duced several rulers of northern Abyssinia to attempt to 

subjugate Shoa ; but they never could succeed, as the 

Wollo Gallas took the part of the King of Shoa 

against the invaders, and as the difficulties from the 

nature of the counti-y are vciy great. I lis Shoan 

Majesty knows veiy well that the northern rulers have 



K 2 







364 MARKET OF TOTOLA. 



always an eye upon Shoa ; and therefore he endeavours 

to be on good terms with them, and bribes those 

governors with presents who might prove prejudicial 

to him. Most probably he will give up this system 

of foreign politics, since he has received great assistance 

in the British friendship, which, if he would only 

make a proper use of it would make him king of the 

whole of Abyssinia. 



About ten o'clock we passed Fala, where a celebrated 



market is held. It is situated on a hill, with steep and 



high banks in the east and west. In this direction a 



wall of about three or four feet in thickness has been 



built to close the road against an invading army. 



This difficult passage secures from the south the access 



to the interior of the possessions of Imam Liban. In 



the west of Fala is the mount Amora-gadel, which is a 



natural stronghold against the inroads of the Galla 



tribes in the south-west. In the east we saw a high 



hill, called Kemmer Dengai, which was produced by a 



former Imam, according to a tradition, which states 



that when the Imam was resting on a stone, he ordered 



his servant to lift it up ; and that when the servant did 



so, the stone became a large hill. 



About three o'clock we passed close to the market- 

place of Totola in Berroo Loobo's country. This is 

one of the most celebrated markets of Abyssinia. We 

saw immense flocks of people coming from all quarters, 

as the market was to be held the next day. Even the 

Boranna Gallas, of the western Wollo tribes, isit this 







DUTIES LEVIED ON THE MARKET OF TOTOLA. 3G5 



market. INIercliants come from Gondar, Tigrc, and 

Shoa. Whatever Abyssinia produces, is sold in this 

market, particularly horses, skins, clothes, and slaves. 

The duties which Berroo Loobo levies on this market 

are said to be veiy little ; but not^vdthstanding, he 

receives weekly about 6000 or 8000 pieces of salt. It 

must be remarked that a dollar is changed for thirty 

pieces of salt in Loobo's country. The people here are 

as scrupulous as the Shoans in selecting a certain kind 

of dollar. The dollar must not only have seven points 

distinctly expressed above the star in the middle, and 

s. f. below ; but it must also look very white, and must 

not appear dirty, as they believe that filth has been ap- 

plied to the dollar for the purpose of covering the tin, 

of which it had been composed by impostors. I am 

sorry to say, that they are not so particular in having 

their faces cleaned, or their clothes washed, as they are 

in selecting this sort of dollar. 



There are several other important market places in 

BciTOO Loobo's country, and I have often heard that 

Berroo encourages trade, and in general has great order 

in his government. The Danakils like him much, and his 

people trade to Tadjurra. In this respect he must be 

superior to the King of Shoa, who did not allow his 

subjects till hitherto to go to the coast, probably from 

motives of superstition or narrow ideas, as if the en- 

trance to his kingdom would become known to strang- 

ers, and his suljjects having been acquainted with the 







366 REACH THE TERRITORY OP ADARA BILLE. 



Danakils^ might run over to them when they are male- 

content with hira. 



About five o'clock p. m. we again reached the terri- 

tory of Adara Bille, and intended to pass the night in 

the house of a Governor called Edris ; but on an-iving 

in his village we learnt that in consequence of a quarrel 

which arose between him and his subjects^ he had been 

compelled yesterday to take flight. The whole village 

was still in confusion, a circumstance which was ex- 

tremely unpleasant to us, as we had believed that as 

soon as we had returned to the territory of our great 

friend and kind host, Adara Bille, our difficulties and 

privations would be at end. The behaviour of the vil- 

lagers was rude and daring, and every appeal to Adara 

Bille, to whom we represented their proceedings, was in 

vain. Our guns, however, frightened and prevented 

them from falling upon our baggage like a vulture on 

his defenceless prey. I foimd it necessary to put on a 

sentry; and as my people were very tired from the 

fatigues of the day, I watched in my turn. 



From the village where we had pitched the tent, I 

had a majestic view over almost all the territories of the 

Wollo Gallas. Ranges of mountains run from south 

or south-east to north and north-west. Each range is 

separated from the other by a plain, a river, or a torrent. 

Each range is inhabited by another Wollo tribe, just as I 

have observed in the country of the Gallas in the south 

of Shoa. The river or torrent serves the inhabitants 

of the mountain to defend their territory against ano- 







ARRIVE AT GATIRA. 367 



thcr tribe. The rivers rim cliiefly to the Bashilo, 

which has the same destination as the river Aclabai 

in Shoa ; viz., to collect the tributes of water of a few 

hundred miles around and to carry this tribute to the 

great lord Abai or Nile. I must confess, that the sys- 

tem of the mountains and rivers of Abyssinja always 

replenishes my mind with astonishment at the wisdom 

of Him who has created all things with the best order 

and organization. 



March 29, 1842 — When the man who had accom- 

panied me from Tartar Amba had left, we started from 

the Aillage where we had been treated very rudely. As 

our animals were tired from the continual fatigues, we 

had great difficulties in giving them their loads. Several 

mules were sore and could not be mounted. I thought 

that if I should undertake this journey another time 

I would pack up all my baggage on horse-back, but 

with a very light load. I would be mounted myself on 

horse-back, and my servants also. A guide would show 

me the road. I would take such a quantity of provi- 

sions that I should not be obliged to halt at places 

where there is any danger, and should I accidentally 

fall in with dangerous people, I would mount my horse 

and escape. This is the only way of traversing these 

hostile regions. 



We arrived at Gatira, the capital of Adara Bille, at 

three o'clock. I immediately sent my compliments, 

and explained the reasons of my speedy and unexpected 

return. lie sent word, that I had done exceedingly 







368 VISIT ADARA BILLE. 



well in returning to him, and that God had delivered 

me from being plundered and murdered on the road to 

Gondar. At the same time, he sent some refreshments, 

and promised to give all that I wanted, as he wished to 

make me very comfortable. Can you fancy this to 

have been the language of a man who himself was 

going to plunder or to kill me in his own house ? After 

an hour^s rest, I was called to see him ; and when I ap- 

peared, he used the same expressions as before, and ap- 

peared to be extremely sorry at my disappointment in 

the prosecution of my journey. How could I suppose 

that Adara Bille, whose house I considered as my own 

— who always pretended to be the most sincere friend 

of Sahela Selassieh — who assumed the greatest friend- 

liness — who sent every moment to inquire after my 

wants — and who, in one word, treated me vnth the 

utmost attention — how could I suppose that this man 

was the very worst man whom I had ever seen in my 

life ? 



My people, as well as myself, hoped that we should 

in a few days be within the boundaries of Shoa ; but 

our Almighty Guide had intended to lead us by an op- 

posite road, and to try me with indescribable privations, 

hardships, dangers, and difficulties. 



March 30, 1842— When I intended to leave Gatira 

after sun-rise, I was ordered by Adara Bille to stay with 

him, till he had informed the Governor of Dair, and 

through him the King of Shoa, whether I should be per- 

mitted to return to Shoa or not, as he had only received 







ADARA BILLETS FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP. 369 



orders to conduct me to the road of Gondar, and not 

that he should assist or allow my return. If he allowed 

me to start without the king's knowledge^ his Majesty 

might afterward blame him, as he had done when the 

brother of Samma-Negoos escaped, when his ]Majesty 

sent the message to Gatira, " INIy son, my son, why 

doest thou not watch ; why doest thou allow everybody 

to go thi'ough thy country as he pleases ? " I replied, 

that I was no stranger to the King of Shoa, who knew 

me very well, and who would probably be delighted 

with my return. Besides, his Majesty could not have 

any objection to my entering his country, as he had 

stipulated in a treaty with the Queen of the English, 

that no British subject should be prevented from 

entering the Shoan dominions. But all my objections 

were in vain, as Adara Billc declared that I should 

not move from Gatira, till he had received the answer 

of the Governor of Dair, who was the King's repre- 

sentative on the frontier. In the mean time he would 

make me comfortable, and give me every thing that I 

should want. He then sent a messenger off to the 

Governor of Dair. One of my lads also accompanied 

the messenger at Adara Bille's request. At the same 

time I wrote a letter to his Majesty, and to Captain 

Harris, the British Ambassador, informing them of 

the reason of my retui*n, and of my detention in the. 

house of Adara Bille. But how much was I as- 

tonished at learning four days afterward, that my 

servant had been imprisoned on the road by Adara 



11 5 







370 ADARA BILLETS FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP 



Billc's Governor of the frontier, and that only Adara 

Bille's servant had gone to Dair, where he most pro- 

bably never mentioned my business. 



Thinking that Adara Bille intended to detain me 

for the purpose of obtaining from me some presents 

in addition to those which I had given him on my 

first stay in his house, I gave him several valuable 

things, hoping he would allow me to depart. But of 

course after he had once made up his mind to plunder 

my whole baggage, he was not content with these. 

His head-wife Fatima, the daughter of Berroo Loobo, 

Chieftain of Worra Kallo, sent for a looking-glass, 

which she received. 



In the afternoon a messenger from Berroo Loobo 

arrived at Adara Billets ; but for what purpose I could 

not ascertain. Adara Bille called me to his house, 

and introduced me to the messenger, who was a man 

of great influence and favour with Berroo Loobo. He 

first asked, what the English had sent to the King of 

Shoa ? and then requested me to see his master at 

Ayn-Amba ; but I replied, that I vished to return to 

Shoa without any delay, as I wanted to go to the coast 

of Tadjurra ; and secondly, that I had nothing to give 

his master, who vv^as an influential and great Chieftain 

of the Wollos. 



March 31, 1842 — As I wished to depart from Gatha, 

I went to the house of Adara Bille to obtain permission ; 

but I was told that the Wodacha was not yet finished. 

I have made mention before of this religious ceremony, 







AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 371 



which makes the people quite mad. In the afternoon 

I was called by Adara Bille. I took the liberty of 

begging him to let me go to Dair or to Adamic Dima, 

his Governor of the frontier, till the messengers should 

arrive ; but he answered, that I should never mention 

this subject before the arrival of the messengers ; that 

he was very sorry about my delay, but that he could 

not help me, as he was afraid of the anger of the 

King of Shoa. I saw now clearly that I could not 

rely on his friendship, and that he was going to play 

me some trick ; but he, observing that I w^as dissatis- 

fied with his beha^^om•, again assumed a friendly air. 



April 1 — As this day was Friday, I could not see 

the Chieftain before three o^ clock on account of the 

Wodacha, which he strictly observes. I had seen this 

morning a messenger of the King of Shoa, who had 

lately been sent to Gondar to the Etcheghue (Head of 

the monks), and who was now on his return to Shoa. 

Although he had been absent for five months, yet 

Adara Bille did not prevent him from prosecuting his 

way, nor state that he fii'st wanted the permission of 

the King of Shoa before he could depart to Dair ; but 

on the contrary, the messenger had been ordered and 

encouraged by Adara Bille to depart immediately. I 

mentioned this case to the Chieftain ; but he said that 

this man was an old acquaintance of his, and that he 

was the King's messenger, whom he could not prevent 

from departing whenever he liked. I then complained 

of the little food which had been given to my animals. 







372 ADARA BILLETS FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP 



which the cunning robber had ordered his servants to 

place in his own stable. 



The proceedings of Adara Bille began to excite my 

suspicions, which I could not conceal from some of 

my most faithful servants, I thought it very remark- 

able, that wherever I went I was accompanied by a ser- 

vant of Adara Billc, who appears to have guessed what 

I intended to do ; namely, to escape at night. Every 

movement of myself and servants was watched over ; 

and when I wanted to buy something, the watchmen 

said, " Why disperseyouthemoney ?" Many sayings of the 

people coming to my ears, made me still more dubious 

of Adara Bille' s proceedings. A man who begged for 

charity before our doors, wanted a dollar, which of 

course was refused. He then said, " You do not know 

whether you will leave this place in safety, or whether 

you will become a beggar like myself." I could not 

forget these words, though I thought that the man 

had contrived them to stir up my liberality. 



Under these circumstances I judged it proper and 

necessary to secure my baggage against any attack 

which Adara Bille might openly attempt upon it, be- 

cause I could not think that he would act so cunningly. 

I thought that if he had made up his mind to plunder me, 

he would do so openly ; and for that we were prepared 

every moment with our guns, as Adara Bille was well 

aware of. But he, observing that I looked through his 

scheme, feigned still greater courteousness and amity 

than before, as the moment was not yet arrived to 







AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 373 



strike the blow which he had prepared against me. 

He sent every moment to inquire after my health, and 

procured pronsions for us in abundance. Sometimes 

he sent to console me in my distress, as he called my 

situation, and that he was himself distressed at the 

detention of om' messengers to the Governor of Dair. 

Though I knew that there was much deception in 

these messages, yet I cou.ld not think that he would 

carry his dissimulation so far. However, I was con- 

firmed in my resolution to escape with the principal 

part of my baggage. The sen^ants to whom I com- 

municated this plan, remonstrated, by saying, that 

Adara Bille would not plunder me, and that my escape 

without any reason would give me a bad name : how- 

ever, if I would insist, I should at all events wait for 

the answer from Dair. Finding that there was much 

truth in this remonstrance, I delayed my intended 

flight till it was too late to put it into execution. 



April 2, 1842 — The day on which the dark clouds of 

our critical situation were to be discharged, approach- 

ed. The work of darkness, the diabolical hypocrisy 

of Adara Bille, was about to be disclosed. I had be- 

gun to read, for my edification, the book called " Com- 

munications from the Kingdom of God," published in 

Germany by Professor Shubert. The interesting nar- 

ratives contained in it gave me mucli comfort and 

encouragement. Having finished the reading, I 

changed my clothes, as I found the old ones very in- 

convenient, and partly worn out. At that time I did 







374 ADARA BILLE's FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP 



not know that without this change my long journey after- 

ward would have been still more painful and precarious. 



About ten o'clock the messengers arrived; but I 

was surprised at learning that the Governor of Dair 

had given no positive answer regarding my return. 

Of course he had never been asked about it. But I 

was still more astonished at learning from my man 

that he had been imprisoned on the frontier^ and had 

not been permitted to go to Dair in company with the 

servant of Adara Bille. This circumstance^ of which 

nobody would give me any explanation, increased my 

suspicion. When I asked the messenger of Adara 

Bille about the answer which he had received from the 

Governor of Dair, he was silent, and only said, " You 

have no other friend or relation except God." 



I then decided to escape during the approaching 

night. I packed up separately those things which 

were of value, and which were not too heavy, viz : the 

money, most of the clothes, instruments, important 

papers, &c. ; while I left the ammunition-box, having 

taken as many cartridges as I thought would be suffi- 

cient on the road. I also left most of the books, 

which I knew he would not touch. I intended to leave 

the house silently at midnight, so that I might be able 

to reach the frontier of Shoa about daybreak. I did 

not expect any resistance on the frontier on the part 

of Adamie Dima, who would easily have been frightened 

by our weapons. 



But Adara Bille hastened to anticipate my plan. 







AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. O/O 



by the execution of his artful scheme. He called me 

about three o'clock p.m., and said that the Governor 

of Daii- did not object to my retui-n to Shoa, if circum- 

stances had prevented me from proceeding to Gondarj 

and that he had instantly despatched a messenger, in- 

forming the King of my embarrassment on the road, 

and my retm-n to Shoa. Adara Bille communicated 

this news to me with such cheerfidness and confidence, 

tliat he made me hesitate regarding the execution of 

my plan for the coming night. He said, "Be rejoiced, 

because you will go to-morrow : you will leave me for 

ever." I thought it prudent to delay my escape till 

the next night, in case he should not fulfil his promise 

of sending me off in the morning. Besides, I had a 

sick servant, who could not go with us this night. I 

asked Adara Bille, in a positive manner, whether I 

should be off to-morrow ; and he swore, by the life of 

Sahela Selassich, that I should. I then walked off, 

quite satisfied. He inmiediatcly sent a servant with a 

fresh supply of provisions, which, he said, would serve 

me on my road to Shoa. One hour had scarcely elapsed 

before he sent again, saying, that if I wanted anything 

more I need only point it out, and it should imme- 

diately be presented to me. 



As I wished to depart early the next morning, 1 

went to bed about eight o'clock in the evening, and 

ordered my servants to do the same. Already slumber- 

ing, I was awakened by a servant of Adara Bille ; who 

invited me to call upon him, as he wished to take a 







376 ADARA BILLE'S FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP 



final leave of me, as he would probably be in bed or 

busy when I should start in the morning. This invita- 

tion, being given so late, puzzled me a little, and I 

intended to refuse ; but thinking that this would be 

the last annoyance which Adara would give me, I got 

up, intending to settle the business as quickly as possi- 

ble. At the same time, all the servants were invited, 

except one, who was to watch the baggage. We con- 

sulted whether we should take our arms with us or 

not ; but we decided that Adara's house was so close, 

that our appearance in arms would be improper, par- 

ticularly as it was the last time we should see the 

Chieftain. We therefore went without our arms. 



When Adara Bille saw me entering the room, he 

made a bow, and said that I had given him infinite 

pleasure in accepting his invitation. The only reason, 

he said, why he had called me so late, was, because he 

would probably be busy to-morrow, and unable to take 

a personal leave of me ; and because he was desu-ous 

once more of my conversation, which had always de- 

hghted him. He then asked whether he could see 

with my spectacles ; and when I told him that most 

probably he could not, as his eyes were not weakened 

like mine, he begged me to allow him to tr} He 

attempted; but of course could not see anything. He 

then said, " You have told me this before," and re- 

stored the spectacles. He then wanted to try my 

boots ; but in this also he was disappointed, though I 

had told him that every boot must be made according to 







AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 377 



the size of the individual. Then he asked^ whether^ in my 

country^ Christians eat with Mahoraedans. I replied, 

that there were no Mahomcdans in my country ; but 

that, supposing there were, we should not hesitate to 

eat with them, as no food which enters the mouth can 

make a man unclean, but that which comes forth from 

the heart, iz. plunder, abuse, fornication, murder, &c. 

He continued asking, and our conversation was pro- 

longed. I at last got tired, and expressed my desire to 

wish him good night and good bye. But he, hearing 

this, said, " Do not go yet, my father ; I have not yet 

been delighted enough : you must eat and drink more, 

as you have scarcely taken anything since you entered 

my room." After a few minutes, I repeated my desire 

to go home, and then got up ; when he, seeing my 

intention to leave him, went into a small cabinet behind 

the bedstead on which he was sitting. As soon as he 

had entered, his servants fell upon nic and my people, 

as if a signal had been given for the purpose. The 

man who had seized my arm said, "You are a pri- 

soner : give surety that you will not escape." My 

servants, as well as myself, were astonished at this 

strange proceeding. 



At first, I took the whole scene for an expedient of 

Adara Bille to prove my intrepidity and courage ; but 

I soon found that the Wollo Chieftain made no sjiort 

with me or my people. They took me out of Adara's 

room, into a small house which had been already 

arranged for my prison. They first allowed me, how- 







378 ADARA BILLE'S FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP 



ever, to see the small cottage in which my servants 

were confined. I was then separated from them, and 

conducted to my private jail. There I was ordered to 

give np all my clothes, and the contents of my pockets. 

As I hesitated to do this, my guards declared that they 

were ordered by Adara Bille to put me to death, if I 

did not instantly give up all that I had with me. At 

the same time they snatched from me my Abyssinian 

cloak. I appealed in vain to the justice and friendship 

of Adara Bille. "Give up the treasures which you 

have with you," was the continual clamom- of the 

plundering soldiers. " You must die immediately, if 

you conceal the least of your property." The female 

slaves, who were grinding meal in a corner of the 

room, began to lament and cry aloud. WTien the 

soldiers endeavoured to take off my boots, shirt, and 

trousers, I obstinately refused, till they at last desisted, 

most probably not knowing how to take them off without 

cutting them to pieces. However, they examined mevery 

closely, in order to discover whether I had any money 

or any thing else. Unfortunately a dollar, with the keys 

of my boxes, and my penknives were discovered, and 

immediately taken. Also a small copy of the English 

New Testament with some notes of the day was found 

and taken, though I entreated them to leave this, which 

I considered a greater treasure than any thing else, as 

it contained the Word of God. But whatever fell into 

their hands, they would not give me back. I remem- 

bered the proceedings of the raging multitude toward 







AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 379 



my Saviour before Pontius Pilate : His example was the 

only treasm-e wliich strengthened me in this dreadful 

moment, when even my life was at stake. I en- 

deavoured several times to remind them of death, and 

the judgment hereafter ; but they had neither eyes nor 

minds for this application. " Give up your money," 

was theii- cry. A short time afterward, one of my 

boxes, which they could not open, was brought in, and 

I was ordered to open it. I patiently performed this, 

when the box was taken to Adara Bille, who examined 

its contents, and afterward sent it back with the order 

that I should shut it up again. From that moment I 

never saw the box, nor any other part of my property. 

As it was very cold, and the little fire was not of 

much use, I ventured to ask for my Abyssinian cloak. 

A soldier acquainted Adara Bille with my request, and 

the cloak was restored. I could not ascertain anything 

of my poor servants that night : the slaves, who were 

with me in the room, did not venture to communicate 

with me. The only consolation which they gave me 

was, that I should not be murdered, and that my 

people would not be sold as slaves, as I had expected. 

As it was already very late, and being tired and tor- 

mented with anxiety, I lay down on the ground ; but 

sleep fled from my eyes. My mind was engaged in 

sighing after the support of Ilim who knows the 

afflictions of His servants and children. I begged Hini 

to prcj)are me for a hapjiy entrance into the kingdom 

of heaven, if this should be my last night on earth. 







380 ADARA BILLE's FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP 



The room was full of watchmen, others were posted 

around the outside of the house, while others watched 

the fence and walls, Adara Bille probably being afraid 

of my escape. A soldier lay over my legs, another 

close to my head, and one on either side : these lay 

upon the ends of my cloak. Believing that I had 

fallen asleep, as I made no movement, the soldiers be- 

gan to talk in the Galla Language, which they probably 

thought I could not understand. Some of them dis- 

approved of Adara Bille's behaviour, which would com- 

promise him in the whole countiy ; while others said, 

that he had done right in plundering the White Man. 

Others thought that I should be killed, lest Sahela 

Selassieh and Ras Ali should hear of what Adara Bille 

had done ; but others advised that I should be sent to 

the road of Tehooladere and Yechoo, when I should 

either die of fatigue on the road, or be killed by the 

Raia Gallas. You may suppose that this conversation 

was not very pleasant to me ; but I inwardly said to 

my Heavenly Father, " Men are all liars ; not my will, 

nor theirs shall be done, but only Thine." 



April 3, 1842 — I arose this morning with the feelings 

of a prisoner. But I considered myself a priso?ier of 

the Lord, whose cause I was sent to promote in Abys- 

sinia ', and resolved, however He should dispose of my 

life, to submit with resignation, as neither life nor 

property belonged to me, but only to Him. I asked 

for one of my servants to be admitted to my prison, in 

order that I might have the company of one who 







AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 381 



could understand me iu my afflicted situation. Dimtza- 

Roophael, who was one of my eldest scholars at Anko- 

bar, was consequently allowed to converse with me, and 

to serve me. Through him I learned that my servants 

had passed a very restless night, having been deprived 

of nearly all their clothes ; and that they had been put 

into a small cottage, which did not protect them from 

the severe coldness of the night. The boy who was 

with the baggage when it was plundered by the soldiers 

informed Dimtza-Roophael that the soldiers came into 

the room with lights, took away every thing they found, 

and brought them before Adara Bille, who examined 

and counted the different articles, and then sent them 

to his store-house. They then took the boy and put 

him into the cottage where the other servants were, 

narrowly watched by Adara's servants. 



I entertained in vain the hope that I might find 

access to Adara Bille, in order to put him in mind of 

the assurance of friendship which he had given me. 

After sun-rise he departed, in order to meet the Gove- 

nor of Dair between Shoa and his territory. It ap- 

pears to be a custom for iidara Bille to pay a visit to 

the new Governor of Dair on the frontier. Habta 

Michael, the Governor whom I found in Dair, had been 

appointed by the King of Shoa only a week before I 

arrived there. After Adara Bille had set out, I was 

allowed to change my prison for my former house, and 

to converse with my servants, who then told mc what 

they had suffered last night j that they believed that I 







383 ADARA BILLE'S FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP 



had been murdered^, and that they themselves would be 

sold as slaves. Their hearts were moved toward the 

Father of all mercy when they saw me walking into 

their room. 



When the people of the village heard of my being 

still alive, they came in great numbers to express their 

sorrow at my painful condition. There was not one 

person who spoke or acted rudely toward me ; even 

the soldiers, who were not very tender last night, were 

now discontent with Adara Bille's proceedings, of which 

the whole town disapproved. Most of them wept, and 

said, " He has neither father, nor mother, nor friends; 

and he who pretended to be his friend, has plundered 

him. May God prove his friend V Others said, " All 

earthly things are perishable. Yesterday he was a 

prince ; but to-day he is a prisoner." I took the op- 

portunity of speaking to them about the frailty of all 

human happiness, and that the only true happiness is 

communion with God. 



It afforded me infinite satisfaction at having regained 

my little New Testament. The soldier who had taken 

it from me, brought it back to me, and said, " Forgive 

me, and pray for me." I showed it to the assembled 

multitude, and said, " This is my greatest treasure, 

because this book shows me the way to my eternal hap- 

piness, which no robber can take from me." 



Several persons brought me some food, as my daily 

allowances were now reduced so much that they were 

quite insufficient for myself and servants. Among 







AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 383 



Others^ Fatima, the Chiefs head v;iie, took an interest 

in my distressing situation. She sent a seiTant to tell 

me that she could do nothing but weep ; and that she 

had endeavoured to dissuade Adara Bille from plunder- 

ing me, but had been unable to prevail on him. In 

fact everybody pitied me. Only Adara Bille was un- 

pitiful, as all my goods had fallen into his hand, nobody 

sharing with him, except those Mahomedan priests who 

pretended to have obtained a revelation on the Wodacha 

that Adara should plunder me, IMany persons asked 

me anxiously, how I should be able to reach my coun- 

tiy. Others said, " Do not be afraid : Adara Bille will 

not kill you ; your property only is lost, but not your 

life. You are the first stranger whom he has plun- 

dered; he has never done so before." Others said, 

"Do not be angiy, because Satan has entered into 

Adara Bille's heart." 



The robber did not return this evening from his ex- 

cursion. "Mien it was dark, I was ordered to return 

to my prison ; but my servants were allowed to stay in 

our house under a strong guard of soldiers. 



April 4, 1842 — I was allowed to return from prison to 

my servants. I learned that Adara Bille had very much 

regretted that he had not plundered me before I went 

to Iman Liban. I heard also that some Chiefs had 

sent to him to know why he had allowed the White 

Man to go through his country without having killed 

or plundered him. 



Adara Bille arrived about ten o'clock ; but I was 







384 ADARA bille's treacherous treatment. 



not admitted to his presence, though I frequently asked 

for an audience with him. My boy Dimtza-Roophael 

was ordered to be the mediator between him and my- 

self, in carrying messages from one to the other. I 

solicited very earnestly for a small sum of money, to 

purchase provisions on the road ; but the robber 

replied that it would not signify if 1 had to beg for 

my daily bread. Only one of my worst mules was left 

for me ; but I could not mount the animal, and was 

afterward compelled on the road to sell it for food and 

a lodging at night, which the Chief of a village had 

offered to me when I was in the greatest necessity. I 

made a fui'ther request for my papers. Fortunately, 

my Amharic Dictionary, which I had collected in Shoa 

mth great trouble, was restored to me, with a few let- 

ters. In fact, most of the paper which was written on, 

was restored ; while the blank paper was kept by the 

robber. The loss of paper afterward put me to great 

inconveniences, as I was obliged in consequence to 

abridge my remarks on the road, and to write on reeds, 

which were spoiled by the rain. 



April 5, 1842 — We were still uncertain what would 

become of us. Reports were spread this morning, that 

Adara Bille would keep my servants as his slaves, and 

send me off alone to a road of which nobody could 

give any information. This report drove my people 

almost to despair, and made my own heart ache so 

much, that I could not refrain from weeping with 

them. They said that they would rather die than be 







DEPARTURE FROM GATIRA. 385 



separated from me. However, the Lord gave me 

strength to console my heart and that of my afflicted 

people. 



About nine o'clock a servant of Adara Bille appeared, 

with an order that we should leave the house, and fol- 

low the six soldiers, who were to conduct us beyond 

the territory of Adara Bille. He did not tell us which 

way we should be conducted, and I could not venture to 

ask, as Adara Bille might have become angry. Silent, 

and defenceless, we followed the soldiers, who went 

before us with spears, shields, and swords. Almost the 

whole population of Gatira was assembled. Most oC 

them wept ; others wished us a happy journey ; none 

praised their Chief ; and many expected a punishment 

from Heaven would be inflicted upon the country in 

consequence of the injustice shown toward strangers. 



At some distance from Gatira I wanted to halt till 

my boy Dimtza-Roophael should join our party. I 

thought that he had some business with Adara, and 

that he would soon join us ; but to my astonishment 

and grief I learned that the robber had detained the 

boy in order to show hitn the use of the stolen goods. 

I have reason to believe that it was partly the fault of 

the boy himself that he was detained. Though he had 

always been attached to me, and though I frequently 

thought tliat the Word of God was working in his 

heart ; yet when the hour of temptation and distress 

was at hand, the real state of his mind was revealed. 



Having received tliis intelligence from the soldiers, I 

s 







386 MANLY BEHAVIOUR OF A BOY. 



gave up all hope of the boy's joming om- party. It 

appears that he had hidden himself when we left the 

house. Now I u.nderstood why Adara Bille, before I 

was plundered, always honoured him so much, and 

preferred him to my other servants. May the Lord 

deliver him from the snares of Satan, and from the 

uncleanness and dishonesty of his heart ; and may the 

seed of everlasting life, which for two years has been 

sown in his mind, preserve him from the temptation 

of apostacy to Mahomedanism ! 



As a contrast to this boy may be mentioned the 

manly behaviour of another, who was called by Adara 

Bille before we left Gatira, and asked whether he would 

remain with him or not. The robber flattered him 

with tender words and worldly preferment ; but the 

boy wept, and declared that Adara should kill him on 

the spot before he would leave his master, who had in- 

structed him in the Word of God. The robber then 

asked, whether any of my servants w^ere slaves, who 

would in that case have been considered as actual pro- 

perty, and immediately taken by the robber. The boy 

answered in the negative ; but seeing that Adara would 

not believe him, he took dust from the ground, and 

scattered it in the air, saying, that if he had not spoken 

truth he would become like the dispersed dust. The 

robber then sent him back to me. Adara- Bille knew 

that I had no slaves, as I had frequently told him that 

we hate slavery ; but Adara thought that I should fol- 

low the practice of Greeks, Armenians, and other 







CRUEL CONDUCT OF ADARa's SOLDIERS. 387 



Abyssinian pilgrims, who sometimes take slaves to the 

coast to pay their passage-money. 



I must not forget to remark, that Adara Bille before 

om* departure this morning, dispatched the general of 

his gunners to the King of Shoa ^yith three match- 

lock-gims. It was evidently his intention to cover his 

diabolical deeds with the show of outward submission 

to the King of Shoa, in case his Majesty should hear 

of the robbery which he had committed against me. 

But how will this messenger and Adara Bille be aston- 

ished, when they learn that I have ^Titten to his ]Ia- 

jesty from the Lake Haik, describing the behaviour of 

Adara BiUe. If his Majesty has no share in the whole 

contrivance of Adara Bille, I have no doubt that my 

property will be restored. 



As long as Gatira was in our sight, we frequently 

looked backed to see whether the robber might not send 

a messenger with orders to our counter-marching to 

complete our destruction. We marched as fast as we 

could, and as quick as our guardians would allow us, 

as we were entirely in their hands. AVe were as de- 

fenceless as any one could be. We were really without 

staves, money, or change of clothes, according to Matt. 

X. One of my senants could not walk well, in con- 

sequence of a sore in his legs ; but the soldiers drove 

him on, and when he remonstrated, they said, " Are 

you not our cattle, with which wc can do as we like " ? 



As well as I could ascertain, from the position of the 

sun, my compass having been taken by the robber, we 



S 2 







388 MEET WITH TAHIRj 



marclied north-east-east. It was now evident that Adara 

Bille intended to send us to the road of Tehooladere, I 

was quite indifferent regarding the way, as I could not 

lose any thing more ; and indeed I could only profit from 

being conducted to a road hitherto untrodden by Eu- 

ropeans. I was so strengthened and consoled in my 

mind by the word given to Abraham, Gen. xii. 1., that 

I could dismiss all my apprehensions of the luiknown 

road, its dangers, and hardships. I went on with a 

mind as cheerful and comforted as if no serious matter 

had happened. How truly says the Apostle John, that 

faith is the victory that overcometh the ivorld. But 

this faith must be a work of God in our hearts. 



Our road led us continually over a level country, 

which however was but little cultivated. In general, 

nature seems to have refused to the Wollo Gallas that 

fertile country, and that state of wealth, w^hich the 

Gallas enjoy in the south of Shoa. This is perhaps 

the reason of the thievish character for which the 

Wollo Gallas are truly blamed. We saw veiy few vil- 

lages, and the population cannot be considerable in this 

part of Adara Billets territory. We crossed several 

rivulets, which presented to us their cool and delicious 

water. 



In the afternoon we were joined on the road by the 

robber^s chief priest, who was returning to his village, 

not having obtained any new revelation concerning my 

party, as all our property was lost. His name is Tahir. 

On meeting me, he gave his compliments with a smiling 







THE CHIEF PRIEST OF ADARA BILLE. 389 



face, and said, " If you will come with me, I will give 

you something to eat and di'ink ; but your servants may 

look out for themselves by begging in the village." I 

put very little confidence in the cunning man ; but he 

did more than I expected ; for he gave us a house, lighted 

a fire, it being cold and rainy, and gave me to eat and 

to drink as well as my servants, who did not find 

any thing in the ^^llage. I ate with the greatest appe- 

tite, being rather hungry from the confinement in the 

prison. The reason why I could so easily accustom 

mvself to the Abyssinian manner of living was, that I 

was obliged either to eat what was to be obtained, or to 

die of hunger. I should have been glad to have eaten 

raw meat if I had been able to procure it eveiy day. 

Necessity had compelled me to leave ofi" what many 

oriental travellers attempt from curiosity and other 

motives. But I think that the natives should conform 

to us, and not we to them. AVhat I mean is this, that 

many travellers appear to be very proud of being able 

to live like an Arab or an Abyssinian, eating with the 

hands, and doing away with all rules of civilized nations. 

But in this they are mistaken, as savages must also see 

in these indifferent and temporal respects the supe- 

riority of civilized Christian nations. It is another 

thing, if you are in circumstances Avhere you cannot 

keep up the rules of civilization ; then you must do as 

you can, and be content with the situation in which 

Proidence has placed you. 



April 6, 1812 — Early this morning we left the village 







390 LEAVE THE TERRITORY OF ADARA BILLE. 



of our host Taliir. When saying good bye, I expressed 

my thanks for his hospitality, which I could not now 

reward, as he was well aware. He said " Never mind : 

it does not signify. I have my share in the property 

which Adara at my advice on the Wodacha has taken 

from you.^' He laughed, and walked oif. This is some- 

thing of the character of the Wollo Gallas, namely, 

friendly cunniugness and rapacity. 



About eight o'clock we crossed a rivulet, and about 

ten o'clock we left for ever the territory of Adara 

Bille, having entered into that of Berroo Loobo. We 

first passed Totola, the celebrated market-place of which 

I have spoken before. Totola means, properly speak- 

ing, the whole beautiful valley and district into which 

we had entered, having left the country of Adara. It 

is intersected in the middle by the river Gherado, which 

runs from south to north-west to the river Bashilo. On 

both sides of the valley is a range of hills more or less 

elevated, and covered with juniper-trees. These hills 

are covered with hamlets and villages. The whole 

scenery is so beautiful, that I cannot recollect ever 

having seen such a fine sight in Abyssinia. You can 

scarcely imagine that you are in Africa. The cool cli- 

mate — the fresh and healthy air — the green plain, 

watered artificially by aqueducts from the river — the 

activity of the inhabitants in cultivation — the quantity 

of cattle grazing — and the multitude of travelling mer- 

chants whom you meet on the road Avith their goods — 

all these and many other things give the place an 







THE RIYER BERKONA. 391 



Em'opean appearance. It is a great pity that such a 

magnificent district of ten or fifteen miles is not in the 

hands of a better people and government. I waited 

several times to rest on the way side to see more of this 

pretty scene ; but om* soldiers di-ove us on, repeatedly 

saying, " Are you not our cattle, with which we can do 

as we please ? " The principal market places of Worra 

Kallo are, Totola, AnchaiTo, Regghe, Dawe, Kallo, 

and Fellano. 



Om' guardians said, that they were ordered to accom- 

pany us as far as the river Mille, where there is a wood- 

like wilderness, in which they evidently intended to plun- 

der the rest of our clothes, and thus leave us to cer- 

tain death. But Providence watched om* lives. About 

twelve o'clock we crossed the river Berkona, and entered 

into the territory of Tehooladere, which is governed by 

Amade, or Abba Shaol. The latter is the name of the 

Chieftain's favourite horse, which has given him the same 

name. The Berkona was not more than twenty feet 

in breadth at the part where we crossed. Its som-ces 

were pointed out to me as rising at the foot of a hill 

called Boroo, about six miles from the place where 

we crossed the river. Near the hill Boroo is a vil- 

lage called Kombolcha; therefore the people gene- 

rally say that the sources are at Kombolcha, where 

there is a marsh gi-ound. The Berkona was on our 

passage at a very low height of water, being about a 

span in depth. It runs first to the south, then turns 

round to the east, near Ayn Amba, and finally joins 







392 DELIVERANCE OF MR. KRAPF 



the Hawash in the country of the Adals. Not far from 

our passage^ the Berkona forms a cataract. Most 

of the waters of Worra Kallo joins the Berkona, a very 

important fact, which shows that we had passed this 

forenoon the watershed, being between the river Ghe- 

rado, which runs to the river Bashilo, which goes to the 

Nile, while the Berkona goes to the east to the Hawash. 

The continuation of the range of mountains observed 

in the east of Shoa is consequently the range which 

runs through Worra Kallo toward Ambassel, leaving 

the Berkona in the east, and the Bashilo in the west. 

This most important fact throws a great light upon our 

maps of Abyssinia, because the watershed of a coun- 

try, if it is once correctly known, throws a light upon 

many other subjects which are in question. 



Before we crossed the river Berkona, we met very 

providentially a merchant coming from Totola. This man 

being struck with the appearance of a white stranger 

on foot without any means of defence, drew near 

to us as if he were concerned about our situation and 

miserable appearance. Seeing this, I endeavoured to 

walk a little before our guardians, in order to speak 

to him at some distance. I acquainted him with what 

had occurred to me at Adara Biile's, and of his soldiers 

being ordered to conduct us to Ali Gongool, a Governor 

of Amade, the Chieftain of the tribe of Tehooladerc, 

into whose territory we had entered after we had crossed 

the Berkona. I must not forget to remark, that the 

only thing which we could learn from the soldiers re- 







FROM ADARA BILLE. 393 



gardiug Adara Bille's secret^ was, that he had sent the 

day before ahorse as a present to Ali Gongool, and that 

he had probably arranged with this Governor what 

should be done with us on the road. The merchant 

therefore thought it very strange that Adara Bille had 

applied to this Governor, and not to Amade ; and he 

advised us positively to refuse proceeding with our 

guardians to Ali Gongool, who had no right to dispose 

of us without his master's knowledge; and that we 

should insist upon being conducted to the Chieftain 

himself; and if the soldiers objected to our request, 

that we should set up a cry, whereupon the country 

people would speedily bring us help and conduct us to 

Amade. This advice, under God's gracious direction, 

saved our lives; and I afterward felt most grateful 

to the adviser, although he soon left us, and I had 

nothing to reward him with, but I prayed that He who 

had sent the man might reward him with heavenly 

blessings. 



On this occasion I learned that the Chieftain of one 

tribe has no right to send a stranger under the escort 

of his own pcojjle beyond the frontier of another tribe, 

because in doing so it would appear as if he had as- 

sumed a superiority over the neighbouring tribe. The 

next Chieftain must do you justice, if you make your 

complaint to him of having been injured by a neigh- 

bouring Chief. The merchant therefore expressed his 

great regret at our not having ajjpealed to Berroo Loobo 

in going through his territory, 

s 5 







394 DELIVERANCE OF MR. KRAPF 



We approached Mofa^ the capital of Amade, which 

is built on a steep and high hill, from which there is 

a pretty view of the lake Haik, of which I shall speak 

afterward. The soldiers of Adara Bille observing that 

we were marching toward Mofa strongly objected to 

it, and a quarrel arose between us. We declared that 

we had nothing to do with Ali Gongool, who was not 

the lord of the country ; but they replied, that they 

had received orders from Adara Bille to deliver us into 

the hands of Ali Gongool, who would send iis with a 

large escort to the river Mille and to the wilderness 

between Tehooladere and Yechoo. As the quarrel ran 

high, and the soldiers drew their swords to cut us to 

pieces, we cried out to the people of a hamlet close to 

the way side. Several villagers immediately appeared, 

and inquired what was the matter with us. We en- 

treated them to conduct us to the house of Amade in 

order that we might acquaint him with our circum- 

stances. The villagers having learned our misfortunes, 

promised to comply with our wish ; but the soldiers ob- 

jected so vehemently, that we were on the eve of en- 

gaging with them with the weapons which the stony 

field furnished us. In order, however, to avoid an en- 

gagement, with which the duty of my message of peace 

in the Missionary cause would not at all agi*ee, I pro- 

posed to the soldiers, that they should dispatch one of 

their companions to inform Ali Gongool of our refusal 

to proceed to him. This was done ; and his answer 

was, that as we had already appealed to Amade, we 







FROM ADARA BILLE. 395 



should go to him, and be content with what he should 

decide in our business. Ali Gongool acted prudently 

indeed, as his master would midoubtedly have punished 

him if he knew that he had executed orders received 

from any other Chief but by himself, and had refused 

people who had appealed to him. 



Jo}-fully, therefore, we went to Amade, who, having 

heard what we told him of Adara Bille, declared that 

he was a very wicked man, because he had not only 

done wi'ong in taking our property, but had also 

offended him by sending his soldiers through his terri- 

toiy, to which he had no right. Amade also declared, 

that if the soldiers of Adara Bille did not instantly re- 

turn, he would put them in prison. Concerning our- 

selves, he said, that we should be at liberty to go or 

stay wherever we liked. Adara Bille was blamed by 

every body who heard of our being robbed by him. 

Though jNIahomedans of the same nation as Adara 

Bille, yet they with one accord pitied our miserable 

situation, and took part with us. The soldiers of Adara 

Bille walked off immediately, without having been 

treated in the least as messengers of Adara Bille. We 

had regained our precious liberty, of which we had 

been deprived since our imprisonment on the 2nd of 

April. 



With feehngs of hearty thanksgivings to my pro- 

tecting Father in Heaven, I left the court-yard of 

Amade, who although he did not provide us with food 

as we had expected, yet had rendered us the most im- 







396 DELIVERANCE OF MR. KRAPF 



portant service in a most satisfactory and speedy man- 

ner. Had I known that the matter would have been 

decided by Amade to my satisfaction, I would not have 

dispatched a servant to the Alaca of the Convent of 

Haik for the purpose of informing him of the circum- 

stances which had occured to me in Adara Bille's house. 

I had dispatched my man before we saw the Chieftain 

Amade, thinking that the soldiers might perhaps pre- 

vail on conveying us to Ali Gongool, who I knew would 

treat me according the secret orders sent to him by 

Adara. My man pretending to have some business in 

the jungle, availed himself of this opportunity to escape 

to Haik, while the soldiers were unaware of his ab- 

sence, and disclosed our plan only when it was too late 

for them to prevent its execution. Having appeared 

before Amade, they were out done in every respect, and 

instead of returning in triumph to their master with 

our clothes and other trophies of victory, they were 

obliged to return with grief at the strange escape of 

their cattle, as they had called us. 



Although I had now a long and difficult journey be- 

fore me, yet I thought very little of it, my mind being 

engaged in expressing my indescribable feelings of joy 

at the deliverance from the hands of the robber Adara 

Bille. What must be the joy and happiness of those 

who have been innocently condemned to long slavery 

or imprisonment ! If those who are still averse to the 

abolition of the slave trade, or who are only coldly co- 

operating with the abolitionists, could feel what I have 







FROM ADAHA BILLE. 397 



experienced for a few daysj they would certainly exert 

themselves more against a practice which is truly called 

a monster of mankind. 



It appeared to me from observation, that the eastern 

tribes of the Wollo Gallas consist of a better set of 

people and government, and possess greater wealth, 

than the tribes of the west. The western Gallas are 

continually lurking on the way sides, till they observe 

a caravan or a single traveller. They frequently run 

after you to the distance of a mile, in order to inquire 

after the state of things of other tribes, or to learn 

who you are, and whither you are going. Their curio- 

sity is then converted into robbery, if they think them- 

selves strong enough to overcome the travelling party. 

This clearly shows a trait in their character, which is 

truly blamed with committing robberies and hostilities 

against each other. The people of the eastern tribes 

may be less blameable in this respect, as they have 

more intercoiu'se with the other parts of Abyssinia, 

being more concerned in carrying on some trade, for 

which a considerable number of market places have 

been selected, as I have before mentioned. Travellers 

have always been more protected among them ; but 

whether European travellers would be treated like the 

Abyssinians is another question. The eastern tribes 

also assume a greater show of dependency on the ruhr 

of Gondar than the western tribes do. Their rulers 

are principally invested with a lineal succession, and 

endcavoui- on this account to keep up their country in 







398 SOIL OF TEIIOOLADERE. 



better order, and their people submit themselves more, 

having been accustomed to obedience for a long time 

to the descendants of one ruling family. This is evi- 

dently the case in the tribes of Worra Himano and 

Tehooladere. 



The nature of the territory of Tehooladere is most 

conspicuous and excellent, and gave me the appearance 

of those Galla countries which I have traversed in the 

south of Shoa. The soil of Tehooladere is excellent 

for cultivation, if there were only hands enough to 

cultivate the black fallow ground. I was told that the 

population of this tribe was very considerable six years 

ago ; but that it was considerably thinned, first, by the 

cholera, which raged six years ago almost over the 

whole of Abyssinia and the countries beyond ; secondly, 

by a famine which laid waste so many tracts of Abys- 

sinian provinces ; and finally, by a war, in which AH 

Marie, the former Chieftain of this tribe, was engaged 

with the Chiefs of Worra Kallo, Lagga Gliora, and 

Worra Himano, who assisted the present Chief of 

Tehooladere against Ali Marie, his relation, who was 

entitled to the government by right. 



The aspiring character and bravery of Ali Marie 

was feared and contemplated with jealousy by all the 

Chieftains around; and therefore it was considered 

practical on theii- part to plunge him into ruin. Had 

he been able to maintain his power, he would un- 

doubtedly have united all the Wollo tribes and have 

introduced a better system of government, for which 







CHARACTER OF ALI MARIE. 399 



he was well qualified. But at the same time he would 

have become a very dangerous neighbour to the Chris- 

tian rulers of Abyssinia, as he showed great attachment 

to the Mahomedan religion, in which he was educated. 

He is continually mo^^ng about from one place to an- 

other. He has been twice in Shoa, where he has been 

well received and dismissed by the King with large pre- 

sents. He has made several attempts to regain his 

power in Tehooladere ; but Avithout any considerable 

success, as the before-mentioned Chieftains anxiously 

watched his proceedings and movements. His capital 

was on the mount Gatara, opposite to IMofa, in the 

south-east. I saw fi'om Mofa the walls which he has 

built on his almost impregnable stronghold. He has 

distinguished himself by personal courage and bravery, 

and I was assured from good authority, that he has 

killed in one battle nearly 300 men with his own sword ; 

but notAA-ithstandiug his efforts of prowess, he could not 

stand against the prevailing forces of three powerful 

Chieftains of the neighbourhood. Perhaps he will avail 

himself of the present confusion in Abyssinia to regain 

the political importance which he enjoyed for a long 

time among the WoUo tribes, because it is well known 

in Abyssinia, that a man of influence must neither 

boast nor despair, as he who is great to-day, may be 

miserable to-mon'ow. And truly Abyssinia is the coun- 

try which most reminds us of the frailty of thrones, 

splendour, honours, and wealth. 



Tehooladere is rich in wood, and grass for cattle. 







400 CLIMATE OP TEIIOOLADERE. 



The climate is finer, as the country is lower than that 

of the western tribes, although there are some high 

mountains. In geographical and historical respect, 

it has a certain celebrity, which I will presently men- 

tion. I have already mentioned that the river Berkona 

rises in the territory of Tehooladere. The lake Haik is 

also situated in this territory. This lake is one of the 

most important lakes of Abyssinia. Its Christian popu- 

lation gives it still more importance. A former great 

king of Abyssinia had established his seat in this coun- 

try as I shall mention hereafter. Before I enter, how- 

ever, into a description of this lake, I must mention ano- 

ther called Ardibbo, which I have never seen marked 

on the maps. This lake is in the tribe of Imam Faris, 

whose capital is in Gherfa. This tribe is situated be- 

tween the country of the Danakil in the east, and 

Worra Kallo and Tehooladere in the west. Imam Faris 

is said to be frequently engaged in war with Berroo 

Loobo. He is in the possession of a few field-pieces, 

which he has bought from merchants trading to Mocha. 

He is on good terms with the Danakil, and his terri- 

tory extends as far as a journey of four days from 

Aussa. If a traveller could succeed in penetrating to 

Abyssinia by way of Aussa, the former capital of the 

Kings of Adel, he might be able to obtain most valu- 

able information of the countries between the Danakil 

and those Apollo tribes through which I have travelled. 

He might be able to throw much light on the geogra- 

phy of these countries of old, and by this means he 







THE LAKE ARDIBBO. 401 



might make us better understand the accounts which 

we have of the annals of Abyssinia regarding the wars 

of its Christian rulers with the ]Mahomedan Kings of 

Adel. 



The lake Ardibbo, near Gherfa, is said to be not 

much less in circumference than Haik ; but there is 

no island in the Ardibbo. I must strongly recom- 

mend travellers attempting a journey to Abyssinia, to 

endeavour to the utmost to get in by way of Aussa, 

although I cannot conceal that this journey would be 

attended with many dangers. The traveller having 

arrived at Aussa from Tadjurra, could probably proceed 

either to Berroo Loobo of "Yorra Kallo, or to Imam 

Faris of Gherfa. 



As the head servant of Amade, Chief of Tehoola- 

dere, had told us that there was a Christian village at 

the foot of Mofa, we resolved to pass the night at 

that place. From the capital of the Chief we had 

a very steep and long descent to the village ; but our 

feelings of joy and cheerfulness at ha^ing been deli- 

vered from the hands of Adara Bille's servants, made 

us forget every difficulty and fatigue. It was dark 

when we arrived in the village. A^'e applied to a mer- 

chant of Gondar, who kindly received us into his 

house, and provided us with food sufficient for our 

l)arty. Although I found only an imperfect form of 

Christianity among the villagers, yet I felt much easier, 

than was the case among the bigoted Mahomedans, 

with whom I had been living since my departure from 







402 REPORTS RESPECTING THE ENGLISH. 



Shoa. I learned from my host, that a report had spread 

over the country that a European had arrived in Shoa 

with a box, in which he carried his King. Others re- 

ported, that the King of the INIahomedans had arrived 

in Shoa ; and that the Mahomedan rulers of these 

countries having heard of the report, were going to 

send a message to the king, who came from the east, 

to offer their assistance to him against the Christians. 

These reports evidently allude to the arrival of the 

British Embassy in Shoa. Other parts of Abyssinia 

are full of strange reports regarding the English. 







CHAPTER, III. 







ARRIVE AT THE LAKE HAIK — DESCRIPTION OF THE LAKE— VISIT TO A 

CONVENT ON AN ISLAND IN THE LAKE — NOTICES OF THE EARLY 

HISTORY OF THE ISLAND — POPULATION— ACCOUNT OF THE MONKS, &C. 

— DEPARTURE FROM LAKE HAIK — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF 

BORA — HIGH MOUNTAINS IN THE VICINITY OF BORA — ORIGIN OF THE 

NAME TEHOOLADERE — LEAVE BORA, AND CROSS THE RIVER MILLE — 

THE MOUNTAIN AMBASSEL — ARRIVE AT THE DISTRICT OF WOKRA 

KALLO, AND HALT AT THE VILLAGE OF LEEBSO — KIND RECEPTION — 

DEPARTURE FROM LEEBSO — CROSS THE RIVER ERGEBBO — FEROCIOUS 

CHARACTER OF THE RAIA GALLAS — COFFEE TREE ON THE BANKS OF 

THE RIVER ERGEBBO — CHARACTER OF THE YECHOO PEOPLE — RE- 

MARKS ON ABYSSINIAN HOSPITALITY — SINGULAR CUSTOM OF THE 

YECHOO WOMEN — IMMENSE PLAINS IN THE YECHOO COUNTRY — CROSS 

THE RIVER MERSA — MANNER OF PLANTING PEPPER — ARRIVE AT THE 

VILLAGE OF MERSA — HOSPITABLE RECEPTION — CONVERSATION WITH 

MAHOMEDANS— DEPARTURE FROM MERSA — SUPERSTITIOUS CUSTOMS 

— ARRFVE AT THE VILLAGE OF SHELTE — DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING 

ACCOMMODATION — MARKET OF WOLDAIA — VILLAGE OF GOODDO — AP- 

PEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF SHAL — 

CONVERSATION WITH A WOMAN— LEAVE SHAL — AFTER SOME DELAY 

REACH THE PROVINCE OF ANGOT— CLIMATE OF ANGOT — ARRIVE AT 

THE VILLAGE OF SARAGADEL — LEAVE SARAGADEL, AND REACH THE 

VILLAGE OF DELDEI. 



April 7, 1842 — This morning the merchant with whom 

I had passed the night, started early from his home to 

visit the market of Ancharro, which I have mentioned 

before. He promised to send some intelHgencc to Shoa 

through merchants of AUo Amba in Efat, whom lie 







404 ARRIVE xVT LAKE HA IK : 



would see at AnchaiTO. I regretted that I was unable 

to give him a copy of the Holy Scriptvu-es, as he had 

expressed a great desire for it ; but I will send some 

copies through people going from Shoa to the lake 

Haik. The village, the name of which I have unfor- 

tunately forgotten, consists chiefly of trading inhabi- 

tants, who are all Christians. Their trade is carried 

on from Gondar through Worra Himano to the country 

of Berroo Loobo and to the territory of the Yechoos, 

^ith articles which are found at Gondar. 



Having taken leave of our friend, we directed our 

course to the lake Haik. The road led us through a 

most beautiful and fertile valley, being rich of trees, 

grass, and rivulets. The soil was chiefly black ; but it 

is scantily cultivated, for the reasons which I have be- 

fore mentioned. They principally cultivate maize of 

diff"erent kinds. 



]Iy joy on arriving near the shores of the lake was 

indeed great, as I had been desirous several years of 

visiting the Christians on the lake, and as the large 

mass of water reminded me again of the water-stock 

of the Red Sea, to which I had so often committed 

myself in former times, and to which the end of my 

joiu'ney would bring me again. How great will be the 

joy of a Christian, when, having overcome death, and 

triumphed over this visible world, he arrives on the 

stream of heavenly happiness, and when he is with 

those Christians who will enjoy this happiness to all 

eternity ! 







DESCRIPTION OF IT. 405 



The Alaca of the Convent of Haik had been already 

informed of my occurences with Adara Bille, with whom 

he is personally acquainted. But when I arrived, I 

did not find him at home, as he was gone out on the 

principal road to the Yechoo country, believing that 

Adara's soldiers would not allow me to see him in lake 

Haik. He came to this conclusion from the circum- 

stance that I did not arrive yesterday evening, when 

he had expected me immediately after the arrival of 

my previous messenger. Not being permitted to cross 

over to the island in the lake without the Alaca's 

special orders, I was obliged to wait on shore till he 

returned. In the mean time I was engaged in con- 

templating the shores and the very interesting country 

around, and in inquiring after the state of things on 

the island. The multitude of people also, who assem- 

bled soon after my arrival, gave me an opportunity of 

speaking on many topics ; so that my long waiting for 

the Alaca was no lost time. 



The shores of the lake in the west and north are 

not high, nor steep ; but those of the south and east 

are sm-rounded by high and steep mountains. The 

circumference of the lake may amount to forty-five 

English miles. Several bays are observed extending 

inland a few hundred yards. The greatest extent of 

water is from east to west. The lake is full of water 

birds of different plumage. I was also told that it is 

rich in fish of a large size. The water is sweet, as may be 

expected from being a land-sea. The island, called 







406 VILLAGE OF DEBRA-MARIAM. 



Debra-Nagoodguad, (hill of thunder), is distant from 

the north-western main land about 260 yards, and 

might easily be battered by rifle-men. The anchoring 

place is called Mad-gebata, and the village, where you 

must halt before crossing over to the island, is called 

Debra-Mariam (hill of Mary.) This village is chiefly 

inhabited by the wives of such priests who are married, 

as by an ancient law no female is allowed to enter on 

the island. All the inhabitants around are Mahome- 

dans, who are not prevented however from visiting the 

island ; but their wives are under the same restrictions 

as those of the Christians. A number of acacia-trees 

are observed near the anchoring place, between the 

village and the lake. These trees afford a pleasant 

shade to those who must wait for the rafts taking them 

over to the island. The eastern mountains of the lake 

are inhabited by the tribe Worra-Babbo, which is 

governed by the Chief Ali Adam, who is dependent on 

Iman Liban. There is but little wood around the 

lake, except in the south-east, which is far off from 

the island ; but the inhabitants of the island cross 

the lake on rafts to fetch wood. Beyond the tribe 

Worra-Babbo is another tribe in the east, called Chaffat, 

and is independent. In the east of Chaffat is the 

country of the Danakil. 



The old Alaca Debille at last returned. I was de- 

lighted at seeing him again. I had made his acquain- 

tance a year ago, when he called upon me at Ankobar. 

I sent at that time a copy of the Amharic New Testa- 







VISIT THE ISLAND OF DEBRA NAGOODGNAD. 407 



ment to tlie churcli of the island. I also gave him a 

copy of the iEthiopic New Testament when I met him at 

Dair. Thus my name was pretty well known in Haik, 

as well as the object of my stay in Shoa. The Alaca 

took me over to the island on a raft, composed of a 

thick stratum of reeds. The raft was about twelve or 

fifteen feet in length, and about three or four feet in 

breadth. The whole stratum of reeds is tied together 

with ropes at both ends, and in the middle. Two 

rowers moved this curious machine, which carries 

about SLX men over to the island. The depth of the 

water increases with the distance from the shore. 

About one hundred yards from the main land the water 

is very deep till almost close to the island. I was told 

that on most places of the lake the bottom cannot be 

found; but although I would not object to this, I 

doubt whether they have ever taken the trouble to 

examine the depth of their lake, especially as they are 

unacquainted with the plummet. 



The western and northern winds raise high waves on 

the lake ; while the winds blowing from cast and south 

are prevented by the high mountains from displaying 

their full power over the water-heaps of the lake. As 

to the rise and formation of the lake, I am at a loss 

how to explain, as I could not learn whether there is 

any volcanic action in the neighbourhood, nor could I 

discover volcanic traces from the nature of the country 

around. I could not however examine the eastern and 

southern shores, being too far off from the island ; and 







408 ABUNDANCE OF WATER-BIRDS. 



I do not venture to judge from rocks scattered around 

the village Debra Mariam, as these may be ascribed to 

the destructive power of the violent annual rains. In 

my ojnnion, an observer should be careful in drawing 

a conclusion for the existence of former volcanos from 

his perceiving stones scattered around, as it is well 

kno\Ti, which I could prove by facts, that the rains 

have demolished considerable hills. A traveller of late, 

who has not however been in Abyssinia dm-ing the 

rainy season^ seems to me to have been greatly mis- 

taken when he seemed to observe nothing but vol- 

canic traces in Shoa. 



It must be remarked, that the name " Haik " is a 

general expression, and means in JEthiopic " sea, " 

or rather " shore." I should think that this lake is 

in a straight line from Ankobar, perhaps a little more 

to the east. I did not observe that there were any 

shells on the shore, nor did I hear that there were on 

other parts of the coasts. There is plenty of grass in 

the water, where it is not of considerable depth ; and 

this is the place where the water birds are gathered in 

immense numbers, so that one shot would aflFord a great 

booty to the sportsman, if the prejudices of the inhabi- 

tants of the island would allow you to fire a gun. 

Their conviction of the sanctity of the island, in conse- 

quence of Tecla Haimanot's having resided on it, and 

blessed the water, seems to have produced this preju- 

dice. The same prejudice would be in your way if 

you attempted to kill a bird on the island, though I 







VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF ST. STEPHEN. 409 



saw there several trees, on the branches of which was 

such a multitude of vultures, that I wondered the 

branches were not broken. 



Having arrived on the Island with the Alaca, I was 

first conducted to his house, and then to the Church 

consecrated to St. Stephen. It must be remarked, 

that this is not St. Stephen, the first martyr mentioned 

Acts ^•iii., but Abuna Stephen, who governed the 

Church of Abyssinia at a former period. The Church 

is rather large ; and the inside is embellished with the 

images of many saints and angels. St. George on 

horseback killing the dragon — the Virgin Mary hold- 

ing the child Jesus in her arms — St. Michael, &c., arc 

principally distinguished among the multitude of pic- 

tures. The priests also showed me the grave of their 

St. Stephen, and related of him many stories and mira- 

cles, as might be expected from an Abyssinian Saint, 

whose holiness and claim to esteem, in the eyes of an 

ignorant people, are entirely founded on such stories. 



The people of Haik, I was told, worshipped a ser])eut 

till Abuna Salama-Qaasieb came to the island and con- 

verted them to Christianity. Afterward, the island, 

or rather the hill Debra Egsier in the east of Haik, 

was the seat of King Del-Naod, who came from Tigre 

about the year 960 of the Christian a3ra. If this fact 

is true, w^e might be led to suppose that Del-Naod 

did not reside in Shoa, as other histories of Abyssinia 

tell us. It is well known to European readers, that 

Del-Naod was the son of Aizor, King of the ancient 



T 







410 NOTICES OF THE EARLY HISTORY 



line, wliicli is derived from Menelec, the son of Solo- 

moiij by Maqueda, the Queen of Saba. At the time of 

King Aizor, the Jewish party is said to have been power- 

ful in Abyssinia, and when the King died, Gideon and 

his wife Judith, leaders of this party, are said to have 

killed 400 royal princes on the mount Damo in 

Tigre, which was at that time the state-prison for 

the royal issue. However, Aizor^s son, called Del- 

Naod, found means, through the assistance of the 

nobility which adhered to the family of Menelec, to 

escape to Shoa. As I do not find any place mentioned 

and selected for this prince in Shoa, I might not ob- 

ject to his having resided on the Island of Haik, as this 

was indeed one of the best places he could choose for 

his security. 



About 400 years afterward, the Island was visited by 

Icon Amlak, as I was informed ; although this would 

not quite agree with the time when Icon Amlak is 

generally admitted to have lived; viz. 1268. This 

prince was restored to the possession of the ancient 

dominions of the Solomonean family by Tecla Haima- 

not, the celebrated founder of the order of friars of 

Debra Libanos in Shoa. He had the seat of his em- 

pire at Tegulet, which seems to have been made the 

capital of Shoa by the descendants of Del-Naod, if 

he did not reside there himself. 



Icon Amlak expelled the women from the Island, 

establishing there a monks^ cloister, which received 

lands around the Island. 333 tracts of land were 







OF THE ISLAND OF DEBRA NAGOODQUAD, 411 



granted to the clim-cli of St. Stephen, and 333 other 

pieces of land were given to the Convent. But all 

these benefits have now been withdi-awn by the G alias, 

who possessed themselves of the whole country around. 

These Gallas, however, who are Mahomedans, and 

speak only Amharic, and belong to the tribe of Tehoo- 

ladere, are at peace with the Haikians ; yea, they 

respect the inhabitants of the Island, as it ])rovcs a 

refuge for them and their property in time of war with 

other tribes. The monks hire tracts of land from the 

Gallas, which they cviltivate for their daily maintenance. 

The islanders must provide the Chief of Tehooladere 

with gesho— a plant used by the Abyssinians instead 

of otir hops in preparing beer — lemons, and also 

money ; as the Gallas around believe that immense 

treasures are hidden on the Island. The monks of the 

Convent appear to be very poor at present, as their 

former benefits are gone. Several princes of Abyssi- 

nia, however, support the Convent. The KingofShoa 

also sends money and clothes to Haik from time to 

time, probably in remembrance of his ancestors having 

being preserved on that island from the slaughter of 

Damo, and in the hope of obtaining a particular bless- 

ing fi'om the prayers of a monk's congregation, which 

has the reputation of extraordinary holiness and hca- 

venly-mindedness. 



The population of the Island amounts, as I was told 

by the Alaca, to 350 souls, consisting of monks, priests, 

scholars, and sen-ants. Before the Gallas abridged 







412 TRADITION RESPECTING TECLA HAIMANOT. 



them of the ancient benefits^ the population amonnted 

to upward of 1000 souls. 



Abba Salama, who converted the Haikians to Chris- 

tianity, brought a Tabot (holy ark) from Jerusalem 

with many other curiosities, such as, pieces of the Cross 

of Christ, and the sponge mentioned in the Gospels ; 

but King Zara- Jacob sent these things to the high 

mount Geshano, of which I shall speak afterward. 

Abuna Yasoos, who came 400 years after the Haikians 

had been converted to Christianity, blessed the lake by 

expelling all the evil spirits residing in the water. 

These took flight and estabhshcd their residence in the 

lake Ardibbo. 



It may be expected that the most celebrated Abys- 

sinian Saint, Tecla Haimanot, cannot be missing in a 

place where the ignorant, superstitious, and cunning 

priesthood wants his miracles to give some additional 

holiness to the place, to deceive the simple lay-man, 

and to cover their hypocrisy with the cowl of an odd 

fellow like Tecla Haimanot. When he arrived on the 

western shore of the lake, he pulled oiF his shoes, and 

walked on the water like Christ did as mentioned in 

the Gospel of St. Matthew. A rose-tree grew up on 

the spot where he had left his shoes. The large pitcher, 

in which Tecla Haimanot brewed his beer, is still exist- 

ing ; and also the place where he prepared his bread. 

Both objects were shown to me. The vessel has been 

manufactured from iron, which is covered with clay, 

and preserved from falling off by means of a skin tied 







ACCOUNT OF THE MONKS, &C. 413 



around the vessel. Tecla Haimanot brought the date- 

tree from Jerusalem ; but he seems to have forgotten 

to teach the islanders how to treat these trees. There 

are about fifteen or twenty on the island; but they do 

not produce any fi-uit, the inhabitants being unac- 

quainted with the treatment of these trees. 



The spiritual father of Tecla Haimanot was called 

Abuna Yasooma^ who educated the lad, made him a 

monk, and sent him to Debra Libanos in Shoa, to con- 

vert the pagans. Tecla Haimanot had been twelve 

years in Haik. Abuna Yasooma liked him so much, 

that he called him his father from the following circum- 

stance. Tecla-Haimanot was one day stirring up A'ith 

his hands a hot panado in a vessel without hm-ting 

himself in the boiling water. Yasooma seeing this, ex- 

claimed, " I have thought that you were my son, and 

I yom* father ; but now I find that you are superior to 

me ; henceforth I am your son." 



The Island has almost a square form, and is about 

two miles in circumference. The Order of the INIonks 

is that of the celebrated ]Ionk Aragawi, who lived in 

Debra Dano, in Tigre. There rules arc those which 

are prescribed in the book of the Monks — IMatzhafa 

Monakosat, written in iEthiopic. The islanders do not 

agree with the innovations which have been made in 

other parts of Abyssinia. They do not believe in the 

three births of Christ, nor do they maintain that the 

human soul has any knowledge in the womb. 



With regard to the establishment and internal ceo- 







414 ACCOUNT OF THE MONKS, &C. 



nomy of the Convent, I have obtained from the Alaca 

the following information : — Each friar receives daily 

one cake of bread from the common baker, who receives 

the meal, wood, &c., from the common stock ; and a 

quantity of beer from the common brewhouse, where the 

vessel of Tecla Haimanot still renders excellent service. 

The common funds are very scanty at present ; so that 

if an individual should want more, he must provide it 

at his own expence ; but these additions must be pre- 

pared publicly in the common bakehouse or brewhouse, 

to which the materials must be delivered. They are 

not allowed to prepare food, &c. in their own houses ; 

and if any were to transgress this regulation, he would 

be excommunicated by the Alaca. Clothes are also 

siven from the common stock. Each Monk has a share 

in the lands, which are, however, at "present in the 

hands of the Gallas. These lands are hereditary ; but 

the son cannot obtain the share of his father, unless he 

become a Monk. A married man may live a long time 

on the Island ; but as soon as he tm-ns Monk, he must 

divorce his wife. Priests and Deacons are not bound to 

do this ; but they must leave their wives on shore, and 

only dsit them at certain times. Each Monk or Priest 

has a few boys, whom he uses as his servants, and edu- 

cates for priests or monks, that they may be received 

into the Order of the Convent, and become sharers in 

the common benefits. The principal business of the 

friars is to say the prayers prescribed by their books. 

Strangers and visitors are accommodated at the public 







& 







OF THE CONVENT OF IIAIK. 415 



expence ; but they can only be introduced by tlie Alaca, 

whose servants watch on shore, and inform him of the 

arrival of visitors. This is particularly the business of 

the steward, whom the Alaca has located in the village 

of Debra Mariam, to which a stranger has first to go. 

Then the steward cries out fi'om the shore to the Island, 

where other servants of the Alaca have to watch. 



The leaders of the whole establishment are as follow : 

1. The head of the whole island. 2. The Alacas of 

the Church and Convent. 3. Afa jMamcr. 4. Megabi. 

5. Safari. 6. Tamaki. Each is subject to the person 

superior to himself. 



There may be about 100 houses, each being for a 

Monk, with a few boys. Each house has a little garden, 

surrounded by a fence. The streets are vei*y narrow ; 

but the whole appearance of the Island, which, I should 

think, is about 5000 feet about the level of the sea, 

certainly affords some of the finest scenery in Abyssinia. 

The climate is veiy agreeable, being neither too hot nor 

too cold. The heat is always tempered by the sea 

breeze. Indeed, the Island appears to be suitable for 

persons who wish to live a sorrowless life ; which is the 

principal thing desired by an Abyssinian saint or monk. 

Were these Islanders real Christians in their doctrines 

and lives, they would undoubtedly be able to contribute 

a great deal to the propagation of Christianity in Abys- 

sinia and beyond it ; but at present they arc, in my 

judgment, complete hypocrites ; being a proud, ignorant, 

beggar-like, raving, and worldly-minded people, who 







416 ACCOUNT OF THE MO^'KS, &C. 



cannot be the salt of the earth. All my conversation, 

tending to the reception of the Word of God, and the 

conversion of our hearts to the living God and Saviour, 

were instantly counteracted by their turning the dis- 

course to the miracles of their saints, to the sanctity of 

the Convent, in consequence of Tecla Haimanot having 

resided on the island, and to begging for property. 

The Alaca Debille is the best of all, being less ignorant 

and less beggar-like. He is respected by the G alias, 

whom he knows how to treat properly. He is very open 

to explanations derived from the light of the pure Word 

of God. I dare say that he would have liked me to 

stay with him for some time : indeed, he requested me 

to do so, although there was no prospect of his being 

rewarded for his hospitality, as I was without any means. 

A quantity of the Holy Scriptures might be deposited 

on the Island, as people from all quarters of Abyssinia 

are continually flocking to the Convent, and as the 

route to Tigre leads by way of Haik, which is only 

seven or ten days' journey distant from Ankobar. 



I have forgotten to remark above, that the rafts 

crossing over to the main land are every evening placed 

on the Island for the sake of precaution ; so that the 

islanders are always secured against a sudden attack. 

After sun-set the rowers cease from work. They loosen 

then the ropes and take the reeds to the Island, where 

they tie them up again on the next morning, when 

they are quite dry. A strange Navy indeed, which is 

to be seen here in its first and weak beginning ! 







OF THE CONVENT OF ITAIK. 417 



As the Alaca had invited me to pass the night in 

his house, I readily complied with his wish. He pro- 

'ided me and my servants with food. The beer^ how- 

ever, was so strong, that I refused to drink much of it, 

being apprehensive that it would disagree with me. It 

was veiy bitter, or rather sour, having been prepared 

with too large a quantity of gesho. I had already 

heard on the road that the beer of Haik was too strong, 

and therefore not liked by the Gallas around. 



April 8, 1842 — The Alaca Debille introduced me this 

morning to Wolda Georgis, the head of the Island of 

Haik. He appeared to be a coldly-minded man. When 

he heard of my misfortunes, he said, " You have no 

property ; but when you have reached your country, 

you will get some." Fancy, what a miserable consola- 

tion this was. I left him after a few minutes. Havinf*- 

returned from my visit, I wrote a letter to the King of 

Shoa and to his Excellency Capt. Harris, the Britisli 

Ambassador, informing them of what had occurred. 

The Alaca Debille advised me to return secretly to Shoa 

by way of AVorra Kalla, or to send a message to 

Berroo Loobo, who would restore my property ; but I 

would not desist from ])rosecuting my way to IMassowah 

whatever further might occur to me on the road. The 

best plan I conceived was to depart from Haik as 

quickly as possible, and to put the matter respecting- 

J;he lost property into the hands of the King and the 

British Ambassador. 



As this day was Friday, I was obliged to cross o(r 



T ,5 







418 DEPARTURE FROM LAKE HAIK. 



from the island to the main land, the rafts not moving 

on Saturday and Sunday, on account of the sanctity of 

these days. I wanted to pass the night in the house 

of a Debtera ; but he positively refused me, saying, 

that he was too poor to give me any thing to eat in the 

evening. I knew that he told me a falsehood. To 

speak the truth, the Haikians have not recommended 

themselves in treating me properly, except the Alaca 

Debille, although they know me very well from Anko- 

bar, and would be certain of a good reward on my 

return to Shoa. 



I first despatched three of my servants with letters 

to Shoa, as I could not take them all to IMassowah. 

It was a heartfelt sight when the three men took 

leave of me, having been companions from the begin- 

ing of my tribulation. They wept excessively, and I 

could not myself refrain from shedding tears. They 

then went down on their knees, begging for pardon, 

if they had given ofience in any way ; and then requir- 

ed a blessing from me. These moments will not very 

soon be effaced from my memory. They were ex- 

tremely sorry for my sending them back, although 

they knew that I could not provide for them on the 

road. At last they went their way, and we prosecuted 

ours in the direction of north-east ; but being already 

too late to go a considerable distance, we went to the 

village Bora, in the district Wordai, distant about five 

miles from the lake. Here we found a Debtera, who 

received us kindly and provided us with whatever his 







HIGH MOUNTAINS OF BORA. 419 



circumstances would admit. He is the only Christian 

inhabitant of the place, all the others being Mahonie- 

dans. I shall not forget to reward him if he comes to 

Ankobar, as he has done his duty toward his fellow- 

creature in affliction and poverty. He stated that he 

had seen me at Ankobar, and that he was glad of 

ha'ing been enabled to render me a little ser^dce, and 

of making his personal acquaintance vnih me. 



Several high mountains were visible in the neigh- 

bourhood of Bora to the north and north-west, the 

highest of which is Sagarat, on the northern foot of 

which the river Bashilo was said to rise. This would 

not be far from the sources of the Berkona. Sagarat 

belongs to the territory of Imam Liban, and the sources 

were to be placed between the territory of Iman Liban 

and that of Yechoo. I have no doubt that the high 

mountain of Sagarat, and the whole ridge of hills 

branching to south and north, form the water shed in 

this part of Eastern Abyssinia, and is endently the 

continuation of the famous range of mountains which 

I have frequently mentioned in my Jom-nal. 



Tehooladere is said to have derived its name from a 

priest called Teclo, coming from God, and who lived 

in the countiy before the Gallas had taken possession 

of it. As he was a man of great influence, and princi- 

pally feared and respected for his magical reputation, 

the country was called Tehooladere, the word Tcclo 

having been corrupted into Tehool. Adare is for Adara 

—he rested — passed his time — Tecloo Adare — Teclo 







420 THE RIVER MILLE. 



passed his time (in this country). Perhaps the whole 

story has been contrived by an idle monk of Haik, in 

order to give more celebrity to the Convent, which had 

formerly enjoyed an influential man like Teclo. In 

general, the learned Abyssinians being fond of mysti- 

cal interpretations, are prompt to find out a meaning 

for every thing, unconcerned whether their ex])lanation 

is affected, or forces a laugh or not. 



Ajrril 9, 1842 — This morning, about six o'clock, we 

left Bora and our kind host, Debtera Atkoo. He gave us 

some provisions for the road. From Bora we had to 

descend a little into the pretty ^ alley of the river Mille, 

which rises on the northern end of the mountain Mofa, 

and runs toward the countiy of the Adals. This river 

separates the territory of Tehooladere from that of Am- 

bassel and Yechoo, The course of the river Mille to 

the east, and that of the river Bashilo in the west, 

shows that the mountains of jMofa and Sagarat form 

the watershed, and are the continuation of the famous 

range which surrounds Eastern Abyssinia like a girdle. 

In the east of this range you enjoy a milder climate, 

which gets hot the more you descend toward the coun- 

try of the Danakil. This descent takes place over little 

hills and valleys almost impassable on account of thorns 

and otlier kinds of wood. 



We crossed the river Mille about seven o'clock. It 

runs through a most beautiful valley, being rich in 

trees and grass, and a good soil for cultivation ; but 

notwithstanding this, the valley is neither cultivated 







THE MOUNTAIN AMBASSEL. 421 



nor inhabited^ but left a complete wilderness. I have 

never seen such a variety of birds, of the most beauti- 

ful plumage, as in this valley, and I am sure that a 

good collection could be made for zoology. The bed 

of the river is of considerable breadth; but its real 

breadth, where there was water and where we crossed, 

was only fifteen feet and a quarter in depth ; but it 

must be remarked, that this was the hot season of the 

year. The river runs north-east-east, and we followed 

its course for a distance of a few miles, till we took a 

more northern direction in the ^■icinity of the mountain 

Ambassel, from which the tribe and the whole country 

around has its name. The height and steepness of 

this mountain raises the greatest astonishment. It is 

one of the most important strongholds of Abyssinia, 

which, if well guarded, woidd be able to check a large 

army for a considerable time, as there is only one road, 

which is steep and dangerous, leading to the top, 

where there is a plain with water and good ground for 

cultivation. This mountain was for some time the 

state-prison of the former Emperors of Abyssinia. 

Tlie royal princes were frequently confined on this 

stronghold, which is not far from that of mount 

Geshano (not Geshen) which is in the north-west from 

Ambassel, as well as I could ascertain without the 

compass. Besides these mountains, those of Damo in 

Tigi-e, and Wcihne in the west of Abyssinia, were 

selected for the imprisonment of the royal issue. 



The present Governor of Ambassel is Ali Boroo, a 







422 THE MOUNTAIN AMBASSEL. 



Mahomedan. Most of his subjects have turned Maho- 

medans. He is completely independent, as no Abys- 

sinian force can compel him to make submission to any 

one of the principal rulers of Abyssinia. He shows 

however great attachment to the Muhamedo, i. e. to 

Iman Liban, who is considered the head of the Ma- 

homedan party. Ali Boroo has lately sent a detach- 

ment of troops to assist the Imam against the invading 

forces of Berroo Aligas and of his brother Faris, Gover- 

nor of Yechoo (not Edjoo). 



The mountain Ambassel has several high and pro- 

minent peaks, and extends from south to north with 

a little east. It is about nine or twelve miles in extent 

from south to north. Its banks in many places resem- 

ble walls of an immense height, and I doubt whether 

the ball of a cannon of the best calibre would reach 

the top of the mount. This stronghold would be of 

the most decided importance in a better military sys- 

tem of Abyssinia, in order to secure its eastern fron- 

tiers against the Gallas and Danakil, who could be 

conquered mth the greatest ease by a small detach- 

ment of regular troops starting from Ambassel. In 

general, my road from Shoa to Tigre has convinced me 

that Eastern Abyssinia is almost unconquerable, and 

would be so if its rulers once adopted the European 

military system. 



Having crossed the river Mille, we entered into the 

districts of Seeba and Goombisa, through which the 

Mille runs, whereupon it is lost in the sandy deserts 







ARRIVE AT WORRA KALLO. 423 



of Adel. Both districts belong to the tribe of Ambas- 

sel. Having passed the district of Seeba, we traversed 

the district of "Woochale, in which we travelled through 

a village called by the strange name Sekdat-teherk. 

On enquiring after its meaning, I learned that the 

inhabitants formerly used and manufactured clothes 

from the wool of black sheep, which is called in 

Amhai'ic Sekdat ; but having become acquainted with 

cotton and the manufacturing of it, they relinquished 

the use of black clothes, which they then considered as 

Teherk, i. e. rags ; thus dishonouring the improved state 

of the skill of their countrymen. Having traversed 

Woochale we came to the district of Worra Kallo in 

Yechoo, which must be well distinguished from "Worra 

Kallo in the AA'oUo country, which is governed by 

Berroo Loobo, as I have stated above. 



We halted a little in Worra Kallo in order to beg 

for some provisions, as we were very hungry. In a 

village, called Leebso, we met two Mahomedans, who 

had lately arrived from their pilgrimage to Mecca. 

They spoke favourably of the Europeans whom they 

had seen in Massowah and Jidda. The large Indian 

vessels had particularly astonished them. One of the 

Hadjees asked, why the Christians did not allow a 

woman who had brought forth a child to go out of her 

house before forty days had elapsed. I replied, that 

this was an Abyssinian practice, derived from the 

Je^vish law, which was not observed by us, except so 

far as the New Testament approved of it. This matter 







434 KIND RECEPTION IN THE 



led US to an explanation of the difference between the 

word of man and that of God. I was sorry that I 

could not give him an Arabic Bible, as he understood 

the Arabic language pretty well. 



As it was late when we arrived in the village, and 

having been overtaken by a violent rain, we took the 

liberty of entering into the nearest house on the way 

side, and asked the proprietor for a night's lodging. 

Having entered the house, I observed a tall man nearly 

naked, sitting on the gi-ound in his room. His long 

black hair, dark face, grave posture, and, in fact, his 

whole appearance gave me the impression of a head- 

breaker, and hangman's servant, from whom we had 

little to expect. He looked upon us with fierce and 

ferocious eyes, and did not speak a word, nor return 

our salutation. I was really a little afraid of him. 

However, I attempted to gain his heart by entering 

into a conversation, showing no sort of fear. I first 

related the disastrous occun-ence with Adara Bille, 

which affected him so much, that he became more open 

and familiar, and felt some compassion for our afflicted 

condition. I asked for a night's lodging, when he 

ordered me to sit down on a skin which he himself 

spread on the gi'ound, and bid his wife prepare supper. 

When this was ready, he invited me and my servants 

to partake of it, which consisted of a fieiy pepper soup, 

raw meat, and teff-bread. "WTiile we sat at table, he 

several times made excuses for not being able to treat 

us better, as he had been obliged to leave his country 







VILLAGE OF LEEBSO. 425 



in consequence of war, and had not yet been properly 

established in Leebso. His invitation was quite super- 

fluous, as we were so hungry that we could eat any 

thing ; as the proverb says : — " Hunger is the best 

sauce." We had no longer the least fear of the man, 

whose looks had almost induced us to leave his house 

and to seek elsewhere for a night's lodging, although 

the rain fell down in torrents. After we had finished 

supper, we were requested by our host to sleep on 

whatever place we could find in his room, which was 

full of men, horses, donkeys, and fowls. The rain was 

also coming in. This however did not signify in the 

least, and we knew how to manage the business, the 

principal thing had been the food. 



I was not a little rejoiced in iny mind at this good 

reception, and I said to my people, " A^Tiat a shame it 

is that we put so little confidence in our heavenly 

Father, who has accommodated us better than when I 

had still my own means." Really we starved more near 

the river Bashilo, when I was able to buy my ovn pro- 

visions. Although we had not here the abundance 

which we had with the Queen Dowager in Zalla Dengai, 

yet our food was sufficient to satisfy our hungry bodies, 

and to require more we are not entitled by the prayer. 

Give us our daily bread. A circumstance which I 

always experienced during the whole subsequent jour- 

ney to the coast, was, that whenever I intended to get 

more by begging in the villages than was requisite for 







426 DEPARTURE FROM LEEBSO. 



one day, we were entirely disappointed, that I should 

not care anxiously for the wants of the next day. 



April 10, 184'2 — Early this morning we departed 

from Leebso, moving toward Mcrsa, a celebrated village, 

inhabited chiefly by merchants of the Yechoo countiy, 

into which we entered yesterday afternoon on arriving 

at Worra Kallo. Having jn'oceeded on our way for 

about half an horn' we were overtaken by a heavy rain, 

which compelled us to seek for shelter under trees, no 

house being ^isible in the whole neighbourhood. The 

second rainy season — between February and April — 

appears to be heavier in these regions than in Shoa. 

Perhaps the mountainous country, which must be always 

clouded, contributes to this phenomenon. It is a fact, 

that where there is high land in Shoa, the rains are 

more fi'equent and heavier. We were in a large valley, 

a complete wilderness, though it might nourish many 

thousand of inhabitants. The acacia-trees and bushes 

were in such abundance that we lost our road several 

times, and were entirely at a loss how to extricate our- 

selves. The mountains around were quite clouded, so 

that we were unable to find and correct our direction, 

which was pointed out to us by our kind host at Leebso. 

We did not know whether we should not fall into the 

hands of the Gallas and Danakils, who dwell ou the 

eastern end of the wilderness ; or whether we should 

be attacked by ferocious beasts, against which we had 

no weapons of defence. Fortunately, however, the rain 

ceased, and the clouds were dispelled, and with these 







CROSS THE RIVER ERGEBBO. 427 



our embarrassments were dispersed, as we could now 

distinguisli the mountain which we should pursue. 

However, the nolent rain had made the slight soil so 

slippery, that I frequently fell down. The vapourous air 

besides and the thorns made our walking very incon- 

venient. 



About nine o'clock we crossed the river Ergebbo, 

which runs to the country of Adel, as is the case with 

all the rivers rising in the east of the famous range of 

mountains in Eastern Abyssinia. Probably there is a 

large river down below toward the country of Adel, a 

river which may take up all the rivers, brooks, and 

rills, of which we passed several since we passed the 

river ]Iille yesterday. This river, which probably re- 

ceives the waters of Yechoo, Lasta, and Agow, is most 

likely the upper course of the river Anazo marked on 

the maps. It may be the general conductor of the 

mighty reservoir of water which is contained in the 

mountain range so frequently mentioned. The Ha- 

wash takes up all the waters coming from the cast 

of the water shed of Shoa and AA'orra Kallo; why 

should we not therefore be allowed to suppose, that 

a companion of the II awash takes up the numerous 

water tributes of Yechoo and Lasta, collects these tri- 

butes to one common stock, and conveys them to the 

coast ; but that the long journey through the sand of 

Adel prevents it from reaching the Red or Indian Sea, 

as is also the case with the llawash. Had I been able 

to take my route through the country of the ferocious 







428 FEROCIOUS CHARACTER 



Raia Gallas, as I intended to do, I should have ob- 

tained more particulars for or against this opinion. 



The Gallas have intraded themselves around the 

whole eastern girdle of Abyssinia, between the Danakil 

and Abyssinians. They live at enmity with both these 

nations, although they have adopted the Mahomedan 

religion. In the east of the great plain which we tra- 

versed, there are several tribes which pay tribute to the 

Governor of Yechoo ; namely, the Chorre, Logana, and 

Boorra tribes. It must be observed, that the Yechoos 

are not Gallas nor Pagans, as it would appear from Mr. 

Bruce's work. At least, at present, they are Christians, 

and speak Amharic ; and I did not find that their fea- 

tm-es are the same -nith other Gallas. Probably Mr. 

Bruce, who although the best ^rriter on Abyssinia, yet 

is sometimes greatly mistaken, took those tribes which 

are dependent on Yechoo for Yechoos themselves. In 

the north of these tribes toward Lasta and Agau are 

the Ana and Raia Gallas^ who could not be subjected 

by the Abyssinians on account of their mountains, 

which appeared from a distance to extend to the very 

sky. The Raia Gallas, of whom I shall speak fre- 

quently hereafter, are the most ferocious set of people, 

plundering and murdering for the sake of pleasure. 

They are divided into several small tribes, which dwell 

in the higher and lower countries of their mountains. 

The mountain ridge which they inhabit, probably ex- 

tends a himdi-ed miles from the south to north-east. 

There they watch the opportunity of carrying terror 







OP THE RAIA GALLAS. 429 



and death against the lower countries in the east and 

west. If the traveller had not to fear this inhuman 

set of people, he would be able to reach Tigre in a much 

shorter time; and the route between Shoa and Massowah 

would be considerably abridged. But thus the traveller 

is compelled to take a long and tiresome route through 

the country of Lasta and Wag, on account of the Raia 

Gallas lurking like Hons at the foot of their mountains. 

On the banks of the river Ergebbo I saw the coffee 

tree. It was about fourteen feet in height. The leaves 

were very long, and the husk of the fruit, which was 

not yet ripe, red and sweet. Coffee is not dear here, 

as the INIahomedans plant as much as they want for 

themselves, the Christians refusing to drink from reli- 

gious motives. 



Mersa is the point where Christians begin to be- 

come frequent, and their number increases to the 

foot of the Yechoo mountains, where the Mahomedan 

power was seldom felt. The Christians and the people 

of Yechoo in general are said to be good, simple, and 

hos])itable. This testimony a])pears to be true to a 

certain extent. Since I had left Shoa and been without 

means, I had not been so well treated as in Yechoo. 

It appears that they have kept up much of the ancient 

Abyssinian manners. Their mountainous country sepa- 

rated them from the intercourse and political move- 

ments of other Abyssinian provinces, and this circum- 

stance contributed much to the preservation of their for- 

mer character. Their hospitality may Ik- j)artly ascribed 







430 REMARKS ON 



to the great wealth which they enjoy. They have every 

thing that an Abyssinian wants in abundance. They 

have a beautiful soil for cultivation, a soil which will 

produce all that they want. 



Having been in circumstances which rendered me 

independent, as well as entirely dependent on Abyssi- 

nian hospitality, I am able I think to be a competent 

judge of what that hospitality is, which by many writers 

has been overrated. As long as you have property, and 

appear to be a great man in their eyes, you will be well 

received every where, as they calculate upon a payment 

more than double the value of what you receive. They 

also expect that the stranger will give a handsome pre- 

sent in return. If he does not give a present, he will 

certainly not meet vnth a civil reception should he 

come again to the house of the same host. Abyssinian 

hospitality is intended, in most cases, with the view of 

obtaining great profit. It is true, that in Shoa and in 

some other places a traveller has little to reflect how he 

shall reward his host, he being compelled by royal 

orders, to treat the stranger well. If you are a poor 

man, you may in some cases be well received ; but the 

Abyssinian in his hospitality merely seeks his own in- 

terest. He gives you to eat and drink for his soul's 

sake, as he says. The Abyssinians believe that if they 

give a few loaves of bread and some horns of beer to 

an afflicted stranger, God will admit them to His par- 

ticular favour, and that He will forgive all their sins. 

Others will receive you for the sake of curiosity, as 







ABYSSINIAN HOSPITALITY. 431 



they perhaps seldom or ever see a white man, believing 

that he comes from Jerusalem. They think that the 

reception of such a stranger into their house will 

give them an opportunity of asking questions about 

this holy city ; questions which are sometimes so 

foohsh and childish, that you can scarcely listen to 

them. "NMien the stranger leaves the house, he must 

give a blessing, which, in the opinion of Abyssinians, 

has a particular effect against devils, gins, ants, locusts, 

mice, famine, war, sickness, &c., because he came from 

Jemsalem. Others will give you food, or a lodging 

for the night, because they expect medicine from you. 

Others perhaps vnW receive you, because, as they say, 

you have no father, nor mother, nor relations in the 

country. These are the principal motives of Abyssinian 

hospitality. 



And then, what do they give you ? Perhaps they 

will allow you to sleep in a stable with their cattle — 

perhaps they will give you some teff-bread and pepper- 

soup, which almost sets yom* lips on fire ; or perhaps 

they will give you a few horns of hydromel and beer. 

But they will never slaughter a sheep when you come 

to them in a poor appearance ; though if you appear 

to be rich, they will not hesitate to slaughter the best 

sheep and largest bullock, as they are certain of receiv- 

ing double the value. Whoever goes to Abyssinia, 

should be warned against relying on the hospitality of 

the cunning Abyssinians. It is better if you have your 

own means ; but if you lose these, you must not despair ; 







132 ABYSSINIAN HOSPITALITY. 



as you mil find; under God's direction^ as much as you 

absolutely want till you reach the coast. This is my 

impartial opinion of Abyssinian hospitality, which I 

have experienced in good and bad days. Do not rely 

on Abyssinian hospitality, but make yourself as inde- 

pendent of it as you can ; but if you must rely on it, 

you may be sure that you will find what you want daily, 

till you can help yourself. 



If a traveller should fail in procuring his daily food 

from the inhabitants of a village through which he 

passes, it is advisable for him to go to the church of the 

place, which must feed a stranger who is a Christian. 

You may go there without any hesitation, because most 

churches have the benefit of lands for that purpose. 

You sit down at the entrance — called Decha Salama — 

till the priests ask you what you want. At all events, 

they cannot refuse you a night's lodging, if they should 

be wicked enough to give you no food. But if you once 

obtain a lodging for the night, you may then go through 

the village and find a little bread or some hog's beans, 

with which you must be content if you wish to travel 

in Abyssinia. The good water and healthy chmate will 

make up for the comforts of other countries. In gene- 

ral it is customary for a traveller to sit down on the 

ground at public places where the villagers can see you, 

and if any one will receive you, he will come and call 

you. Should you wait however for a considerable time 

without having been called by any one, you may then 

attempt to ask for a lodging in a house you choose; 







HINTS TO EUROPEANS. 433 



and if you are sent away, it is best to go to a 

church. 



This matter leads me to mention a subject which 

may prove useful to many Europeans, who a])pear to 

consider Abyssinia a country in which they could make 

their fortunes in a short time. This is by no means 

the case ; and he who entertains this opinion, will be 

utterly disappointed if he goes to Abyssinia for this 

purpose. It is true, that a mechanic might be able to 

collect a large fortune, if people would pay him pro- 

perly for his n-ork ; but this is never the case. They 

want liini to do every thing without payment ; yea, they 

expect that he will make them a present for the favour 

which they believe they have done him by requesting 

his services. If there are Abyssinians of a better 

mind, they ^'ill perhaps give to the labourer a sheep, 

or some barley and other things in kind. But this is 

rather a trouble than an advantage. As long as the 

Abyssinians do not travel to other countries, and arc 

not acquainted with European customs and the value of 

Em-opean articles, or the usefulness of a European me- 

chanic ; or as long as any Abyssinian ruler does not 

encourage the improvement of commerce and manu- 

factures at any cxpencc, as Mahomed Ali, Pasha of 

Egypt, has done, wc must not expect that artisans and 

merchants will gain advantage to any considerable ex- 

tent. Abyssinia is at present in a state of infancy com- 

pared with European nations ; but if it were goerned 

bv a proper government, it would soon rise to be the 



u 







434< SINGULAR CUSTOM OF THE YECHOO WOMEN. 



first power of Africa^ and its flourisMng state would be 

of the most decided advantage to Eui'opean speculators 

of all kinds. 



Moving toward Mersa^ we met multitudes of people 

going to the market of Goobhara, a village through 

which we had passed yesterday. I observed a very 

strange custom of the Yechoo women whom we met on 

the road. They either turned backward, or turned 

their faces to the ground, standing still on the way-side. 

Believing that this arose from the fear which they had 

at seeing a white man, or that it was a trace of modesty 

customary in their tribe, I inquired the reason ; and 

I learned that in doing so, they request a blessing from 

the traveller, w^ho has to addi'css them with the words : 

" May God have mercy upon you ;" or, " May He bless 

and preserve you.^^ I observed afterward almost the 

same custom in the Wag country, though only in the 

male sex. 



I have already mentioned, that the immense plains 

of the Yechoo country would admit a more numerous 

population ; but on examining this matter more fully, I 

found that they leave them uninhabited on purpose. 

These plains, which are complete wildernesses, are nar- 

row in the west toward the foot of the mountains, but 

very considerable in breadth toward the east and the 

Galla country. Thorns and other kinds of wood grow 

up on these plains in such abundance, that you can 

scarcely find your road through this thorny wilderness, 

which is dreaded on this account by large wild beasts. 







MANNER OF PLANTING PEPPER. 435 



Thus naturally fortified against the inroads of the Gallas 

of the east on points where the only entrance is presented 

to these savages^ the Yechoo people do not feel inclined 

to deprive themselves of this thorny stronghold by 

means of cultivation, for which they have room enough 

in other places. Besides, the cultivation of such a 

wilderness would require great exertions, which the 

laziness of the Abyssinians will not attempt, unless 

the utmost necessity compels them. The climate in 

these plains is beautiful, neither too hot nor too cold ; 

the air being always refreshed by the winds blowing 

from the mountains. There is plenty of water poured 

out from the veins of the neighbouring mountains. 



About twelve o^ clock we crossed the river Mersa, 

which cai'ried in its narrow bed such a mass of water 

that we had great difficulty in passing the river. The 

heavy rain which fell this morning had caused this 

swelhng of the river, which at other times cannot have 

much water. Much cotton is planted on the banks of 

the river. But I was particularly struck with the man- 

ner in which the natives plant their red pepper. They 

dig small pieces of ground near the river, which they 

saiTOund by a fence. In this the young pepper plant 

is placed, and covered with reeds, which however do not 

touch the top of the plants, as they stand very close 

together. These reeds are frequently sprinkled with 

water, which drop down on the plants gradually. This 

treatment evidently contributes to the speedy and lux- 

uriant growth of the plant. AVhcn it has grown about 

u 2 







436 ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF MERSA : 



a foot in lieiglit, it is transplanted into another tract of 

ground. I was told, that a pepper-plantation of only 

aljout ten or twelve feet in circumference, will bring in 

to the proprietor a revenue of two or four dollars, as 

he is enabled to plant a large field with the previous 

produce of but a small garden. 



Having crossed the river Mersa, we immediately saw 

the village of the same name before us. We had al- 

ready been made aware that Christian merchants resided 

in this village; but my principle was not to inquire 

much on my own account about the religious differen- 

ces of a place, as the principal thing that I wanted was 

such hospitality as would satisfy my necessary daily 

wants, and because my duty as a messenger of God^s 

Word should be exerted toward Christians as well as 

Mahomedans, without any predilection or choice of my 

own. T could compare myself with the birds of the 

mlderness, which, without any choice or knowledge, fly 

to the branch of a tree they happen to reach, and gene- 

rally find on the ground below what is requisite for 

them. In the same manner I went into the next house 

and accepted with thanksgiving whatever was presented 

to me for my bodily wants ; and wherever the Lord gave 

me an open door and an open heai't to deliver the mes- 

sage of His Word, I spoke freely of His infinite grace 

and love to sinners, revealed in Christ, without asking 

whether the people of the house were ]Iahomedans or 

Christians. 



We entered into a little house in jIersa close to the 







HOSriTABLE RECEPTION. 437 



way-side. The people of the house ijroved to be Ma- 

homedans. Upon entering and saluting them, an old 

sickly looking woman returned our salutation, and bid 

us walk in and sit do^^^l on a skin, which she spread 

out before us. She then ordered her daughter to make 

some coflfee, and to bake a few cakes. In the mean 

time, she gave us some hog's beans, till the coffee was 

ready. A neighbour- woman, who was a Christian, 

was with her, and who hearing that wc were Christians, 

said, " "Why did you not go to the houses of the Chris- 

tians ? '' I said, " In the first place, we are strangers, 

who do not know any thing about the religious differ- 

ences of the inhabitants of this place ; and, secondly, 

we are afflicted strangers, having been deprived of ovir 

property by the hands of a robber on the road. We 

therefore apply to all who feel compassion for the 

afflicted." The Christian woman then ran out of the 

house. We thought she was gone to fetch some pro- 

^dsions for us ; but we were utterly disappointed, and 

we never saw her afterward. But this disappoint- 

ment did not signify, as our old kind hostess did every 

thing to show her compassion for us. " I know," she 

said, "that you are Christians ; but this does not prevent 

me from admitting you to my house, because you are 

strangers of Allah, (God) who has ordered us to do good 

to them." And really she did so. Though she wasa 

j)oor woman herself, she did eveiy thing to make us 

comfortable, presenting us with coffee, bread, and af- 

terward milk and beer. 







438 CONVERSATION WITH MAHOMEDANS. 



While we were enjoying ourselves with what was 

given by our hostess^ several Mahomedans entered the 

room. One of them began the conversation by asking, 

whether I knew at what time God would send them 

either famine or cheapness. I said, that God kept this 

secret to himself, and that whoever should attempt to 

disclose it by means of his natural knowledge, would 

turn a liar and offend God : besides, he would lead his 

fellow-creatures to unwarrantable errors. " Well then," 

the Mahomedans replied, "thus you know nothing 

about this subject." " No/^ I said, " nothhig at all ; but 

I know about another more important famine and 

cheapness of our souls, of which I am going to tell 

you,^' I then spoke about the natural corruption of 

sinful man, who unless he seeks for his salvation through 

Jesus Christ, the only Saviour, will be lost for ever. 

While I was conversing with these people, a Mahome- 

dan Sheik came in. He first said to me, " Shave your 

head." This led us to the same topics on which I had 

just been speaking ; but the Sheik interrupted us, by 

addi-essiug our hostess and requesting her to send us 

away. She said, that she would not do so, as we werfe 

an afflicted people. I said, " Why do you trouble the 

woman on my account because I am a Christian ? If 

you believed what our Gospel says, He wlio loveth God 

loves his hrother also — you would not say what you 

have." He then arose and walked off in anger. 



Another Mahomedan who came in, immediately got 

affected when I returned his salutation in the Amharic 







SUPERSTITIOUS CUSTOM. 439 



words : " Egsiabher yemas ghen'^ — May God be praised ! 

The Mahomedans, although they only speak xlmharic^ 

will never nse any other expression than the Arabic 

"El-hamd-lillah," in order to distinguish themselves from 

the Christians. I then said^ " ATiom shall I praise but 

God, who daily does me good in body and mind ; and 

not only me, but also those who do not know Him and 

believe on His Son Jesus Christ, who is the only Sadour 

and Mediator between God and man." 



April 11, 1842 — We left our kind hostess about seven 

o'clock, A.M. Before starting I had an opportunity of 

observing a superstitious custom which is common to 

Christians as well as ]Mahomcdans. The woman of, a 

neighbour sent to our hostess for the staff of Moses, 

as they call a kind of acacia wood. They believe that 

a staff of this wood swung before a woman in labour, 

will considerably promote her delivery. Moses is said 

to have used a staff made of this sort of wood when 

he struck the rock in the wilderness; and in like man- 

ner the Holy Virgin is reported to have used it. 



I also observed another extravagant superstition, 

which we could scarcely expect from Mahomedans. 

They pay great respect to certain trees. There was a 

tree in Mersa which they particularly hold in great re- 

verence, ^ly people desiring to sit dowTi under its 

shadow, were immediately driven away, lest the Adbar 

should be angiy. Adbar means keeper or watchman. 

They gi'casc this tree, and perform religious ceremonies 

under it. Nobody dare touch or damage the tree with- 







440 SUPERSTITIOUS OPINIONS. 



out risking a severe punishment. We saw on our road 

yesterday a large tree^ a wanza, which was greased. 

This superstition is common to Mahomedans and 

Christians, and particularly to the Pagan Gallas, from 

whom the Abyssinians appear to have adopted many 

heathenish customs and practices. The Shoans acknow- 

ledge many things as Adbar. Thus, for instance, a 

leopard has been frequently seen in the forest of Afer- 

beini, near Ankobar, on a tree close to the monastery of 

Tecla Haimanot. One day I expressed a wish to 

let this beast feel the power of my rifle; but the 

monks having heard that I wished to kill the leopard, 

and that I had agreed with people to let me know when 

the beast was on the tree, came and begged me not to 

destroy the leopard, as he was an Adbar, or protector 

of their monastery. I said, " On this account I wish to 

know whether he can stand against my rifle, in order 

that you may give up an idea which is highly disgrace- 

ful to a Christian, who should be better instructed from 

the "Word of God." INIany people in Shoa told me, 

that leopards are Adbars, as they show the road to fugi- 

tives who endeavour to escape from the captivity of the 

Gallas. Would you imagine that such gross supersti- 

tion and ignorance could really exist among a Christian 

nation ! I could scarcely believe it myself if I had not 

heard the matter from so many people. 



We travelled toward Woldaia, the capital of Dejas- 

madj Faris, Governor of Yechoo. On om" road Ave met 

a number of priests coming from Gondar by way of 







THE VILLAGE OF SHELTE. 441 



Begemeder and "Wadela. They told us that the robbers 

near the river Checheho had deprived them of their 

clothes and provisions. They had nothing on their 

bodies except the skins of bullocks, which some merci- 

ful people had given them to cover their nakedness. 

This fact is a fm-ther proof of what we might have ex- 

perienced if we had been able to prosecute our road to 

Gondar by passing the Checheho. The river Checheho 

has its source in the mountains of Lasta, and runs be- 

tween Begemeder and Daunt into the Nile. 



Our road led us through plain land as yesterday, but 

it was less woody. As it was already evening, and a 

shower of rain approaching, we would not enter the 

capital of Woldaia, but preferred seeking for a lodging 

for the night in a village called Shelte, a few miles dis- 

tant from Woldaia. Our intention was to move to- 

morrow to Woldaia, and if possible to rest there for a 

day or two, as our daily joui-neys had tired us consider- 

ably. Besides, we thought that we might be able to 

collect a stock of provisions for our journey through 

Lasta, which, we had learned, was a poor country, 

abandoned by the inhabitants. Having arrived in the 

village of Shelte during the rain, we entered a house to 

beg for shelter and a lodging for the night. The lady 

of the house however, who was alone with her children, 

bid us go out of her house, as there were many other 

houses where we might ask for a lodging. Sad as wc 

were, we went away in the rain, and made our peti- 

tion to the inhabitants of another house ; but they 







442 INHOSPITALITY OF THE PEOPLE OF SHELTE. 



answered, " What have you to do in om- house ? You 

cannot stay with us ; wx have a sick person in our 

room : walk off immediately/' We then went to another 

house, but with no better success, as the proprietor told 

us that he could not receive any one, as his house was 

full of people and cattle. We said, that we would only 

trouble him for a place to sleep upon at night, as we 

could not sleep in the open air on account of the rain, 

and as there was no chm'ch in the village to which we 

could go. As we still went on asking for a night's 

lodging, he said, " I have told you once that I have no 

room for you ; therefore you must leave my room.'' 

" Well then," I said, " I will go, and the same God who 

gives a place to a bird where to rest upon, will provide 

for us." While we wxre talking with the man, we w^ere 

called by the people who at first excused themselves with 

having a sick man in their house. They gave us a house 

w^hich was empty, the inhabitants having joined the ex- 

pedition of Dejasmadj Faris. We felt very grateful for 

the permission they gave us to pass the night in thehouse. 

Some neighbours having heard from my servants the 

mischief which had befallen us on the road, brought 

a few loaves of bread and a little beer. They also 

lighted a fire, it being cold in consequence of the rain 

which fell on our arrival, and warmed some water to 

wash our feet, a matter which a kind and civil host in 

Abyssinia dare not overlook. 



April 12, 1842 — As we wanted to pass the day in 

Woldaia, we were in no great hurry to leave the village 







MARKET OF WOLDAIA, 443 



of Shelte, Woldaia being not very distant. On our road 

we met a great many people, who were going to the 

mai'ket which is held this day at Woldaia. They came 

from all quarters. We saw many hundreds of donkeys 

and mules loaded with salt-pieces, barley, cloths, &c. 

A dollar is exchanged at AYoldaia for thirty-six or forty 

pieces of salt, consequently double as much as in Shoa. 

I observed that the Yechoo language varies in many 

things fi-om the Shoan Amharic, which differs in many 

thin2;s from the dialect of Gondar, which is considered 

the purest Amharic. As to the rest, I could understand 

the people of Yechoo as well as the Shoans. I was 

sorry that I did not see Dejasmadj Faris, who was 

on an expedition ^ith his brother Berroo Ahgas against 

Imam Liban, the head ofWoiTaHimano. Eerroo Ahgas 

and Faris was the reason of my return to Adara Billc, 

and now I was obliged to go through their country. 

Faris was described as a man of great kindness and 

hospitality, who if I had seen him would have given 

me a mule or money. At least I was told so by his 

subjects ; but I doubt this, as he would scarcely have 

given me any thing, because I could not give him a 

present. How strange are the ways of Providence ! 

When I did not want him, he and his brother were in 

my way ; and when I wanted him, he was not at home. 

Woldaia is a considerably large town, situated in a 

plain with shght hills. It may contain a few thousand 

inhabitants. Probably Faris has chosen the place, in 

order to be at hand against the inroads of the eastern 







444 UNKINDNESS OF THE NEGAD RAS. 



Gallas, The houses differ but little in construction from 

those in Shoa. 



On account of the insecurity of the road, we had 

been advised by some people to join a caffila going to 

Lasta and Wag. As we did not know the day of its 

departure, we were told to apply to Atkoo the Negad 

Eas (head of the merchants) in Woldaia, and to ask 

him about this matter. Trusting that he would give 

us the best information, and would perhaps allow us to 

stay in his house a day or two, we went to him ; but 

we were immediately refused admittance into the house. 

He was sitting in the house-yard ; but probably thinking 

that we did not know him, he said, " The Negad Ras 

is on the market : he is not here," though the neigh- 

bours had told us that he was at home. Upon endea- 

vouring again to enter the gates, he cried out and said, 

" I have told you once that the Negad Ras is not here." 

At the same time he ordered his servants and many 

ferocious dogs to drive us out of his sight. We went 

away very sadly indeed, and grieved at the man's un- 

couthness. We resolved, however, to prosecute our 

way without caring any more about the departm*e of 

the caffila or the insecurity of the road. I must con- 

fess that the rude behaaour of this man made my heart 

weep ; but at the same time it led me to cast myself 

upon Him who is a merciful Father to all those whom 

the world turns out, and who was my only friend and 

protector in an unknown country, where I had neither 

friends nor funds. 







THE YILLxVGE OF GOODDO. 445 



Thus the plan which we had schemed yesterday for 

collecting a store of provisions at Woldaia was entirely 

frustrated ; but we entertained the hope that we should 

find what we wanted at other places^ and at a time when 

we should absolutely require it. 



Upon leaving AVoldaia in a north-easterly direction, 

we had to descend a great deal fi'om the plain of this 

town. We had no guide with us; but we proceeded on 

our way, continually inquiring after provinces and places 

which I knew from the maps of Abyssinia. A narrow 

path from Woldaia led us down into a small valley, 

through which a river runs, called in Amharic, the 

Black River. It had much water from the rain of last 

night. It runs to the country of Adel. 



About nine o'clock we halted in a village called 

Gooddo, where my people wanted to go and beg, as 

the village had the appearance of a wealthy population. 

But this was only an optic delusion when we tried to 

obtain something from the apparently rich people. 

With gi-eat difficulty, and after long supplications, my 

people brought back a small quantity of hog's beans 

from their begging excursion. A Mahomcdan woman 

allowed us to boil the beans on the fire in her house. 

She also allowed us to make a little black cofi"ee, 

which had been given us the day before yesterday 

by our host at ]Iersa. AVe could never prevail on 

Christians to allow us to make coffee in their houses, 

as they instantly took us for iVIahomedans and sent us 

out of their houses ; nor would they by any means give 







446 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 



US a vessel for making the coffee^ because it would make 

the vessel unclean. 



After we had left Woldaia, we seldom met Mahome- 

dans, who are not very numerous in the Christian 

country of Yechoo. They are still less in the country 

of Lasta and Wag. 



Starting from the village of Gooddo^ I made the ac- 

quaintance of a man from the village of Shal, near the 

district of Angot. He came from the market of 

Woldaia, and was on horseback. He inquired after 

the country from which we came, and where we were 

going. On learning that we came from Shoa, he said, 

" The Shoans are the best Christians of Abyssinia, and 

their king is the best ruler.^' This remark was made 

by many people of Lasta, Wag, and Tigre. Both the 

king and the people are in favourable reputation with 

the rest of Abyssinia. The king^s generosity is known 

every where ; therefore they flock fi-om all quarters to 

Shoa, principally monks and priests. 



Our road led us over a very fine country, extremely 

adapted for cultivation, the soil being that of our 

European gardens. In the west we had always the 

sight of high mountains, ranged from south to north 

and north-east. About twelve o'clock we crossed the 

river Ala, which rises in these mountains, and runs 

toward the country of Adel. It carries a considerable 

quantity of water in its narrow bed, and during the 

great rainy season must be impassable. Being late, 

and the clouded peaks of the mountains menacing the 







ARRIVE AT THE TILLAGE OF SHAL. 447 



approach of rain, we thought it best to look out for 

shelter iu due time. We beheld the village of Shal, 

the name of which we had heard previously from the 

man whom we had met on the road. He had left us 

before we crossed the river Ala. We did not know 

his name, nor did he invite us to pass the night with 

him ; nor had we asked him for any favour of this kind. 

On entering the ullage, which consists of single houses 

scattered over a considerable distance, it happened that 

we directed our coui'se to the very house belonging to 

the man whose acquaintance we had made before. He 

himself had not yet arrived, having some business to 

settle elsewhere. His wife would not allow us to take 

our seats within the room before her Imsband had 

given us permission to enter. Thus we waited patiently 

in the court-yard, being still unacquainted with the 

proprietor of the house. xt last he came, and proved 

to our astonishment to be the man whom we had met 

on the road. We of course depended upon a good 

reception and treatment, as this man appeared to be 

affected toward us on the road. But we were too rash 

and sanguine in our expectation ; for the man frowned 

upon us, and asked who had told us that this was his 

house, and scolded his wife for having allowed us to 

take shelter in the house-yard. He then made apolo- 

gies for being unable to treat a great man like myself, 

by slaughtering a sheep or bullock, and advised us to 

take our lodging in the church, which was very far off, 

and, as we learned aftenvard, without priests. I 







448 CONVERSATION WITH A WOMAN 



answered, that I did not wish to be treated as a great 

man ; but that I would be content with a httle food 

and a small spot where to sleep upon. Having several 

times represented to him that we were very tired from 

walking — that the rain w^as approaching — that all 

other houses were far off — that he himself had ex- 

pressed great affection on the road — and that the 

Christian Religion commanded hospitality toward 

Christians in particular — the man gave in, took us into 

his house, and treated us with a kindness which we 

did not expect after this long dispute. This occurrence 

confirmed me in the opinion which I had formed on 

some previous occasions, that a traveller in my situa- 

tion must not be afraid in many cases of assuming 

firmness and importunateness, as the continual begga- 

ries of the Abyssinians have rendered the heart of many 

givers almost inflexible. 



I cannot conclude the description of my experiences 

of this day, without mentioning the truly eminent 

questions which the wife of our host asked me when 

our conversation had tm-ned to religious matters. The 

woman having frequently heard me say that we should 

live according to the will of God, asked emphatically, 

" What is the will of God ? " I answered, '' We should 

love God with our whole heart, and our fellow-creatures 

as om-selves." She then asked; " How can we love God ? " 

I replied, " If we see how much God has loved us before 

in giving us His Son Jesus Christ as our Saviour and 

Mediator." " Who is Jesus Christ ? " she asked ; " and 







IN THE VILLAGE OF SHAL. 449 



where is the Word of God ? " Allien I afterward spoke 

again of God^s love toward us^ she said^ " I have often 

thought that God does not love us, because we fre- 

quently offer beer and bread to St. JMichael and St. 

Abbo ; but notwithstanding, they do not prevent our 

houses from being biu-nt by our enemies." I said, 

" Just from what you now tell me, you may see God's 

love toward you by chastising you, in order that you 

may give up your idolatry of offering bread and beer 

to St. Michael, and offer yoin- heart to the living God, 

that he may govern your thoughts, words, and deeds." 

I shall never forget the interesting questions which 

this woman put to me in a manner which is seldom 

observed in other Abyssinian inquii-ers. May the 

word which I spoke to her become a seed in her heart 

for everlasting life ! 



April 13, 1842 — I got up very early this morning, as 

the tleas and other insects would not allow me to take 

rest for a moment during the whole night. The great 

number of cattle in the stable in which we were quartered, 

gave an attractive power to these little tyrants, who 

vexed us at night, after we had been pained by the 

people during the day. "Vc left early the village of 

Shal, which is in the district Sanka, belonging to 

Yechoo. From Shal we had to ascend a long time. 

!Many rills intersected our road and refreshed us with 

their delicious water, coming from sources which we 

could observe, at a distance of a few hundred yards, 

gushing from the rifts of the rocks. 







450 DISTRICT OF SANKA. 



The district of Sanka suffered much in war a few 

years ago, when Dejaj Faris was fighting against his 

rival Dejaj Bedool. Faris had been imprisoned by 

Ras AH in Debra Tabor ; but he found means to escape 

from prison and to retm-n to Yechoo, which had been 

given by the Has to Bedool during the captivity of 

Faris, This brave warrior had scarcely anived in his 

former territory, when most of his subjects joined his 

party. He gave Bedool a battle in Sanka and killed 

him ; but he burnt at the same time the villages 

around. 



About ten o'clock we finished our tiresome work of 

ascending to the higher country. We rested a little 

on a spot, where two highways request the traveller 

to decide which he will choose for his journey. The 

north-western highway leads to Lalibala and Gondar ; 

while the north-eastern road will bring you to Sokota 

and Antalo. Had I been furnished with proper means, 

I would have changed my mind and taken the route 

to Lalibala and Gondar, as I had more than one motive 

to see the latter town ; but my misery and afiliction 

compelled me to prosecute the north-eastern route 

toward Tigre, as this would lead me quicker to Mas- 

sowah, the end of my jom'ney. 



Having scarcely proceeded on our march again after 

the rest we had taken, on a sudden we heard the 

outcry of several men running in a huny after us. 

Bearing in mind the dreadful remembrance of Adara 

Bille's robbery, we thought of no other occurrence 







ACCUSATION AGAINST MR. KRAPF. 451 



than that we should now be entu-ely deprived of the 

rest of our property^ which the generosity of our robber 

had left on our bodies. The men came on and requested 

us to retm'n to the place where we had rested, as there 

were judges who would decide on the crime which we 

had committed. On asking what we had done, we 

were told that we had persuaded four slaves at Shelte 

to run away from their master ; and that these slaves 

must either be with us, or that we must know where 

they had gone to. Perceiving that the matter had no 

reference to our being plundered, and observing the 

people running together from the fields to stop us, I 

complied with their demand and returned, in good 

confidence that I could prove my innocency in this 

accusation. On returning to the place where the 

judges were, the accusation was repeated by the people 

of Shelte, saying, that I was the brother of the Abuna, 

to whom the slaves belonged. The Abuna had a num- 

ber of Shangalla slaves with him when he was in the 

camp of Ubea in Begemeder; but when Ubea was im- 

prisoned by Berroo Aligas' troops, the Abuna's slaves 

were also imprisoned by the Yechoo soldiers, who 

performed the achievement of Ubea's capture. The 

soldier who imprisoned the slaves of the Alnma was 

a native of Shelte ; and, according to the Abyssinia 

right of war, he had taken them home. The slaves 

having disappeared just at the time when I was in 

Shelte, the people said, that nobody could have persuaded 

them but myself, being the brother of the Abuna. 







453 MR. krapf's reply. 



Against this impeachment I advanced, first, a a 

abridged narrative of the whole of my journey from 

Shoa, particularly of my accident with Adara Bille, 

a narrative which at once gained the heart of my 

judges; secondly, I explained, that slavery according 

the Word of God, is a crime against mankind, and 

therefore strongly forbidden in my country; thii'dly, 

that I had neither seen nor conversed with slaves in 

Shelte ; fourthly, that my host in Shal, with whom I 

had passed the previous night, could witness that I 

had nobody with me except my own servants, whom 

they had seen in Shal ; and lastly, that they had not 

found here an increased number of my party. Both 

judges and accusers seemed to feel the force of these 

arguments, and the quarrel ended by the judges de- 

claring us excommunicated if we had not spoken the 

truth. 



Disagreeable and annoying as this occurrence was to 

us, yet it turned to our great advantage ; for had we 

not been detained, we should have traversed the district 

of Angot, and then we should not have found a village 

on the road before night, in a cold and dangerous 

wilderness. Thus frequ^ently many circumstances are 

insignificant and disagreeable, but in course of time are 

found to be veiy providential indeed. that my 

heart were more thankful to Him, whose gracious hand 

was to be seen so manifestly dm-ing the indescribable 

misery and distress of my journey ! 



We were now in Angot, which appears to be a large 







PROVINCE OF ANGOT. 453 



district. It begins with the point of the separation 

of highways mentioned above, and extends as far as 

Lasta, to which it is considered an additional part. It 

is at present dependent on the Governor of Yechoo, to 

whom Lasta is also subjected. This is evidently the 

province of Angot marked on the maps ; but it must 

have been formerly much larger than it is now. It 

must have extended more to the east, where there is at 

present a part of the Raia Gallas. I had frequently 

asked such people in Shoa as I thought would be able 

to tell me something about the province of Angot; 

but I was left in ignorance till I asked a native this 

afternoon about the name of the district which we were 

traversing. Tlie same was the case with the dis- 

tricts of Bugna and A^"olaka, which are mentioned by 

Mr. Ludolph and by INIr. Bruce. According to the 

latter (Vol. II. p. 441.) the daughter of the Jewish 

King Gideon was married to the Governor of Bugna in 

Lasta. Bugna is still to this day a district near 

Lalibala in Lasta. Wolaka is another district, through 

which I shall pass to-morrow. I am convinced that 

many names of the ancient geography of Abyssinia 

would be again discovered, if travellers would go over 

the whole of the country. In some distance in the 

east of Angot is the high mount Sobel, inhabited by a 

part of the Raia Gallas. The climate of Angot is very 

cold, as it is high land. On the eastern frontier of the 

mountains of Angot I saw a large plain, situated very 

low between Angot and the mountains of the Raia 







454 ARRIVE AT THE 



Gallas. The beauty of the prospect which I had of this 

plain, and the high mountains of the Raias beyond^, is 

truly indescribable. The plain must be very considera- 

ble in breadth, and a river runs through it from what I 

could see and learn from the natives. If this be true, 

and I believe it is, it must be the river Mille mentioned 

above. This, I suppose, takes up all the waters of the 

Yechoo mountains, and runs between Angot and the 

Raia mountains north-east-east, where it receives the 

waters of Angot, Lasta, and Wag, and perhaps also 

the waters of Wofila and a part of Tigre ; whereupon it 

attempts to reach the coast, but it is prevented by the 

sand and the rising country toward the coast. I in- 

quired much about this plain ; but people told me that 

they did not go over to the Raia Gallas, and therefore 

did not know whether there was a large river ; but that 

there was water running through the plain. This 

information compelled me to suspend my judgment of 

the subject, till other travellers shall throw more light 

on the matter. It frequently happens that travellers 

form their own idea of a subject, and turn their obser- 

vations or information according to these their precon- 

ceits, which is rather a loss than an advantage to geo- 

graphy. 



Having reached the village of Saragadel, we learned 

that there was no other village on the road for a dis- 

tance of about fifteen or eighteen miles. As it was late, 

the rain approaching, and we were tired, we resolved to 

pass the night in this village. We entered into a house ; 







^*5 'ai^O^ ■ 













VILLAGE OF SARAGADEL. -^^-"^ 455 



but the inhabitants immediately set their dogs at us. I 

withdrew a little^ and sat down on a rising ground, 

where the rocks afforded me a little shelter from the 

cold rain which began to fall. My servants went 

through the village to seek for a night^s lodging. Pen- 

sive and grieved at the hardness of man toward his 

fellow-creature, I sighed after the assistance of Him 

who had not hitherto forsaken me on my pilgi'image. 

My servants went from house to house ; but all their 

endeavours were in vain, till at last a sick old man of- 

fered his cow stable if we would be content \ith it, 

which of course we thankfully accepted. The old man 

introduced us to the stable and ordered his children to 

light a fii'e, as we were trembling with cold. He then 

had some bread prepared for us. There was nobody in^ 

the room except oui'selves and the cattle, which did us 

no harm, except that they attracted those disagreeable 

tjTants of which I have spoken before, and which 

would frequently have rendered our nights entirely 

restless, had not the fatigues of the day produced such 

an overwhelming sleep that we did not feel the tormen- 

tors. I sometimes checked them by leaving the room 

and staying outside in the cold for a few minutes. 



April 14', 1842 — We left Saragadel about seven 

o'clock, and moved toward the mountains of Lasta, still 

ascending till about nine o'clock. Our road led us to a 

complete wilderness, ^•ery different from those wc had 

passed a few days ago in the lower country of Yechoo. 

There wc had plenty of water, a warm climate, and 







456 DESOLATE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 



could always find the road when we had debated. But 

this was not the case on the high land of Angot and 

Lasta. . ColdnesSj want of water, and difficulty in find- 

ing our true direction, was painfully felt by our whole 

party. There was not one large tree, and nothing but 

grass, called gooassa in Amharic. With this grass 

they cover the roofs of their houses. A country where 

there is this sort of grass frightens the Abyssinians, as 

the name reminds them of a country being cold. The 

country where you find the gooassa, requires a height 

of 8000 or 10,000 feet above the sea. 



The sky was clouded when we traversed the wilder- 

ness, a circumstance which rendered our situation still 

worse, as we could not distinguish and make out our 

direction from the peaks of the mountains. However 

we went on, being convinced that the road must lead us 

to some place or other. We saw no village, no culti- 

vated laud, no cattle, no beast, except some foxes ; no 

travellers, in fact nothing but desolation, and we our- 

selves seemed abandoned. Few places ever gave me such 

a melancholy impression as this wilderness, an impres- 

sion which I can scarcely forget. After a walk of three 

or four miles, on a sudden we observed at a distance 

through the mist covering the wilderness a number of 

people, who were sitting on the ground on the side of 

the way which we had blindly taken. Their appear- 

ance was not agreeable to us, as we took them for 

lurking robbers, of whom we had been warned yester- 

day at Saragadel. To our great joy, however, they 







MARKET OF AVOLDAIA. 457 



proved to be merchants of AVoldaia coming from the 

market held at that place. They were just eating their 

breakfast, of which they kindly gave us a share after 

they had heard of our misery. They also pi*ovided us 

with some meal for our use on the road. One of their 

party also accompanied us for some distance, and showed 

us the road so plainly that we could not go astray. I 

took both the food and the guidance as coming from 

the gracious hands of Him who always helped when 

help was necessary. 



About one o^clock p. m., we reached a few houses on 

the road, where we halted and had our flour which the 

merchants had given us made into bread. A woman of 

one of the houses offered to bake it, on condition how- 

ever that we should ourselves fetch the wood and water 

necessary for the preparation. To this we agreed ; and 

our stock of flour procured us three cakes, being scarcely 

sufticient for myself and five servants. AVhile my peo- 

ple were busy in fetching the materials requisite for the 

preparation of the bread, I looked through the door of 

our little cottage to the sky covered with immense 

clouds. The passage of David came to my melancholy 

mind, where he says, I tvifl lift up mine eyes unto 

the hills, from lohence comelh my help. I thought 

that the meaning of the passage might refer to those 

immense mountains of clouds which were over his head 

when he was in a state of distress and melancholy, and 

to which my present situation had some resemblance. 



We left the hamlet about two o'clock p. m., continu- 

x 







458 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 



ally descending on our routCj whicli led us again througli 

a tract of country entirely abandoned by inhabitants. 

I must remark, that we began to descend after we bad 

left the merchants mentioned above. 



The wilderness through which we now travelled had 

a very different appearance from what I observed this 

morning. We now found more water ; we had fine 

scenery for our eyes ; juniper-trees, kolquall acacia 

were in abundance ; and sometimes we found it difficult 

to extricate ourselves from the abundance of thorns. 

But we saw no inhabitants ; we met no travellers ; nor 

did we see any wild beasts, but beautiful birds of the 

finest plumage. Fortunately we could find om* road 

easier than had been the case this morning, when the 

grass and mist prevented us from keeping up the di- 

rection pointed out by our host in Saragadel. 



The present population of Lasta seems to be almost 

nothing, having been destroyed by famine, war, and 

sickness, as I was told by the natives whom I asked 

about this subject. Ras Ali was blamed for having 

ravaged the country several years ago in the most bar- 

barous manner. There would be much room for the 

maintenance of a numerous population ; but it would 

require an active hand, till the thorny ground could 

be made arable. A single farmer might now possess 

himself of as much ground as he likes. I shall never 

forget the refreshing water which I di'ank out of the 

rivulets which run to the north-west in small but deep 

beds under the shadow of a thicket of wood, so that 







POPULATION OF LASTA. 459 



the sunbeams can never touch the vatcr, and which 

is therefore agreeably cool. Their course is north-west 

to the river Tacazze ; a circumstance which shows that 

we had this morning passed the watershed as soon as 

we had passed the cold wilderness. The country of 

Lasta is high and hilly in the east and west; and 

therefore the running of the waters must force their 

way to the north-north-west. From the point where 

we travelled to-day we saw no more a rivulet running 

to the east till we reached the frontier of Tigre to 

Massowah. Having left the country of Angot, we 

crossed only such waters as belong to the water- 

stock of the river Tacazze. But I have no doubt that 

the high mountains in the east of Lasta, Wofila, and 

Enderta, pour out many rivulets toward the country of 

Adel, as is the case with the eastern mountains of 

Yechoo, "Worrakallo, and Shoa. The space of a journal 

does not allow me to dwell upon a subject which would 

give occasion for writing a volume about the system 

of waters and mountains of Eastern Abyssinia. 



About five o'clock in the evening we reached a vil- 

lage, called Deldei, which means in Amharic " bridge." 

In many respects there is some truth in this name, as 

this ^^llage really presents the passage you must take 

either in going to the counti^ of Wag in the north, 

or of Yechoo in the south. It leads you in both 

cases to uninhabited tracts of country. It is therefore 

the general assembling-place of merchants going from 

Sokota and Wofila to AVoldai, or vice versa. In Deldei, 

X 2 







460 ARRIVE AT THE 



the market people join togetlier, in order to frighten 

the robbers of the road -mih an imposing party. The 

robbers especially lurk on such days when the mer- 

chants return from Woldaia or Sokota. We met a 

company of merchants ; but our plan was now positively 

against joining their party, who wished us to take the 

road to Sokota, the capital of the Wag country, which 

we endeavoured by all means to avoid, having heard of 

the rapacious character of the Governor of Wag. 



We entered the first house which we saw in Deldei 

on the way side. The dogs made a tremendous howl- 

ing, and the house-wife, as usual, forbid us staying in 

her room till she had obtained the consent of her hus- 

band, who was absent. Knowing that this was the cus- 

tom of the country, we waited in the court-yard, while 

some of my servants went to beg in the mean time. 

On their return, they brought a few handfuls of hog's 

beans. When the husband arrived, and heard of stran- 

gers asking for a night's lodging, he first objected to 

our passing the night in his house, saying, that there 

had been a sick man, with whose disease we might be 

infected if we entered his house. I said that I was not 

afraid of this, and that it would not at all signify; 

whereupon he bid us walk in and have some supper. 

Presently I heard a lamentation in the house of our 

neighbour ; and on asking what was the matter, I was 

told that a man had run away from his wife and chil- 

dren and had made himself a Monk, and was gone to 

Debra Libanos in Shoa. The wife had just received 







VILLAGE OF DELDEI. 461 



intelligence from a merchant, who had seen the man on 

his way to Shoa. Hence her lamentations^ as she could 

not provide for her children. It frequently happens in 

Abyssinia, that a man divorces his wife without telling 

her that he is going to make himself a monk, on ac- 

count of his soul, as they say. Such a man is called 

jMenani ; i. e, despiser of the world. To save their 

souls, as they say, they do not hesitate to break the 

order of conjugal life whenever they please, and most 

of their countrymen praise their rigidity, or spiritual 

bravery. But the fact is, that they are either in indi- 

gent circumstances, or discontent with their waves, and 

this induces them to run into a convent ; but as they 

go in their opinion to a holy place, they think it unne- 

cessary to inform their wives of what they are going 

to do. 







CHAPTER IV. 







DEPARTURE FROM DELDEI — CONVENT OP SHAMADO MARIAM — DESTI- 

TUTE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY — -ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF 

ENALKA — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST — KIND RECEPTION BY THE 

GOVERNOR OF ENALKA — LANGUAGE AND CHARACTER OF THE AGAUS 

— DEPARTURE FROM ENALKA— NOTICES OF LAKE ASHANGHE — ARRIVE 

AT THE VILLAGE OF LAT — APPREHENSION OF AN ATTACK FROM 

THE TROOPS OF WOLDA MEDHEN — INTERVIEW WITH HIM — UNEX- 

PECTED KIND RECEPTION — ARRIVE AT THE DISTRICT OF BORA — CON- 

VERSATION WITH THE GOVERNOR OF A VILLAGE — PASS THE RIVER 

SHEMSUEHO — ABUNDANCE OF FISH — ARRIVE ON THE FRONTIER OF 

THE WAG COUNTRY — KINDNESS OF THE GOVERNOR — ARRIVE AT THE 

RIVER TZANA — RECEIVE UNFAVOURABLE NEWS RESPECTING THE 

STATE OF THINGS IN TIGRE — AFTER CONSIDERABLE DIFFICULTY, 

ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF JIAWOINI — KINDLY RECEIVED BY A 

MONK — ARRIVE AT ANTALO— CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE — CONVERSA- 

TION WITH A PRIEST ON RELIGIOUS SUBJECTS — NOTICES RESPECTING 

THE TOWN OF ANTALO — DEPARTURE FROM ANTALO — IMMENSE 

FLOCK OF BABOONS — SITUATION OF CHELICAT — ARRIVE AT ADIGRAT 

— VISIT THE CHURCH OP ST. CHLRKOS — SITUATION OF ADIGRAT — 

VILLAGE OP MAMBEROT — INHOSPITALITY OF THE TIGRIANS — LEAVE 

MAMBEROT, AND ARRIVE AT BEHAT — CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE 

OP SENAPE — VILLAGE OF SHEMASANU — VISIT THE ALACA OP THE 



CHURCH OP ST. GEORGE — CONVERSATION WITH HIM ON PASTING 



LEAVE MESHAIKH — DISPUTE WITH THE GOVERNOR OF SENAFE — 

ARRIVE AT TEKUNDA— WELL RECEIVED BY THR GOVERNOR — DEPAR- 

TURE FROM TEKUNDA, AND ARRIVAL AT ARKEEKO — ARRIVAL AT 

MAS.SOWAH. 







April 15^ 1842 — Early this morning we departed from 

Deldei, taking an easterly direction toward Wofila and 







CONVENT OF SIIAMADO MARIAM. 463 



the lake Ashanghe. We did not like to go to Sokota, 

having heard of the bad character of the Governor of 

the Agaus. Last year he robbed a French Gentleman, 

who intended to go to Shoa. This gentleman had a 

fine sword, which the Governor wanted to buy ; but as 

he would not bargain vnth the Governor, he was angry, 

and sent his servant on the road to rob and kill him on 

his way from Sokota. They wounded him with a 

lance ; whereupon he fell to the ground ; and the rob- 

bers taking him for dead, took his luggage and clothes, 

and returned to their master. This fact is true, and 

was afterward related to me by the servants of the 

Governor of Wag. About six o^ clock we halted on the 

banks of the river Terari, where we finished the re- 

mainder of the bread which our host had given us 

yesterday evening. 



On our road to Wofila was the Convent of Shamado 

.Mariam, which is in great reputation with the Abyssin- 

ians. We did not visit the Convent. The })riucipal 

convents distinguished for sanctity are in Axum Tzion, 

Lalibala, and Debra Libanos. Our road led us 

through countries quite destitute of inhabitants, al- 

though the good soil would admit a considerable degree 

of cultivation. The ground was overgrown with grass 

and thorns, and intersected with rills and brooks. 

The road was hilly, but not rocky. We could see in 

the north-north-west of Lasta the high mountains of 

Semien, the peaks of which presented to us the appear- 

ance of large towers. The hilly country of Lasta ami 







464 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 



Wag, as far as we could see, had exactly the appear- 

ance of a raging and stormy sea, presenting numerous 

hills of waves, with a large space between each wave. 



We observed only a few hamlets on our road ; namely, 

Ahio, Tartara, and Atemie Galla. In Tartara we were 

frightened by a man who was ploughing close to the 

way-side. He said, that the road to Wofila was infested 

by robbers, and that we should do better to stay with 

him, and to join a caffila going in a few days to Wofila. 

He repeatedly asked what goods we carried with us, as 

lie wished to buy something from us. When we told 

him that we had no goods at all, as we had been rob- 

bed in the Wollo country, he said, '^ I know you have 

gold with you.^' As I was exceedingly weary, I felt 

inclined to accept his invitation ; but my servants re- 

sisted, saying, that they distrusted the man, who, 

under the pretence of hospitality, might prove at last 

a second Adara Bille, and I think that they were right 

in advising me to prosecute our road. A traveller 

nuist certainly take care in these regions of wickedness. 

There are very few hamlets on the road. The ground 

is full of grass, thorns, and bushes ; but this is exactly 

the country which suits the purpose of the gangs of 

robbers. We left the man, and said, that we did not 

care to go with a caffila. He laughed, and said, " Well, 

you may go ; the road is safe ; but do not go too much 

to the east, else you will fall into the hands of the 

Raia Gallas;'' an advice in which he was quite correct. 



We travelled to-day almost in an easterly direction j 







VILLAGE OF ENALKA. 465 



but on arriving at Atemie Galla, we deviated from our 

road to north-east-east, having learned that our eastern 

direction would lead us to the country of the Raia 

Gallas, who would certainly kiU us if we fell into their 

hands. Having no reason to doubt the correctness of 

this statement, which was given to us by an old man 

of the hamlet Atemie Galla, we turned off immediately 

to north-east-east toward the village Enalka, which we 

could see from a distance, and where we intended to 

pass the night. ^Marching over a thorny field, we saw 

two men running after us with large sticks. Allien 

they came up to us, they were silent for some time as 

to their object in coming after us. Upon asking them 

what they wanted, they said, that they wanted medi- 

cine. Their behaviour, however, clearly showed that 

this was not their real intention of coming to us. Un- 

questionably they contrived this falsehood to make us 

believe that they did not intend to plunder us, when 

they saw that they could not manage us, our party 

being too strong for them. 



We reached the village of Enalka about four o'clock. 

As the people of the first house into which we entered 

would not receive us, we sat down under a tree, wait- 

ing according to the custom of the country, for the 

invitation of any of the villagers. Having waited in 

vain for a considerable time, we were visited by a priest, 

who asked us the reason of our sitting so long under 

the tree. We told him that we wanted to pass the night 

in the village, but that at present nobody had invited 



X 5 







466 CONVERSATION AVITH 



US. He walked off, but instantly returned, bringing 

with him a loaf of bread, and a small jar of beer, which 

he presented to us. He then said, " I have no house of 

my own, as I am a stranger, having come from Antalo 

in Tigre ; but I will speak to the Shum (Governor) of 

this village, who will probably quarter and feed you 

well for this night." He then sat down, and wished 

to have a conversation with me. He commenced by 

saying, " I am a great sinner ; but I think that the 

acquaintance of a man from Jerusalem will do me a 

great deal of good." I said, " I am, as well as you, a 

great sinner, though coming from Jerusalem ; and even 

though yourself had been in Jerusalem it would do you 

no good. I will show you the way to get rid of all 

your sins, and how you may find a share in the Jeru- 

salem of heaven, which is far superior to that on earth." 

This subject turned our conversation to sin, and the 

way in which we may obtain forgiveness of our sins 

through faith in Jesus Christ, who will not only forgive 

us our sins, if we sincerely repent and believe in Him, 

but who will give us also the spirit of grace to preserve 

us from committing sins. The priest then went home ; 

but immediately came back again, bringing with him 

an ^thiopic Psalter, to which was annexed a little 

book called Woodassie ]Iariam (Praise of the Holy 

Virgin). I strongly disapproved of their practice of 

confounding and connecting the erroneous word of 

men with the pure Word of God, to which our conver- 

sation was now turned. 







A PRIEST OF ENALKA. 467 



The priest having heard that the Governor of Enalka 

had arrived, went to him and interceded with him for 

a night^s lodging for us. The Governor came out to 

the tree, took oiF his clothes to the loins, in sign of 

respect, made a bow, and said, " Would you not do 

better to come to my house and stay with me ? I will 

give you all that I have." Of course we accepted the 

invitation A^ith the greatest pleasm'e and thankfulness. 

This transaction reminded me of the hospitable beha- 

Wour of Abraham. The Governor himself spread out 

a skin and bid me sit down. He then ordered a fire 

to be hghted ; but as it was not cold, I requested him 

not to do so. Some beer and bread was then brought 

to us till the supper was ready. He frequently said 

to me, " You are a great man ; you are a priest ; you 

come from Jerusalem : I must take care of you." But 

I soon perceived the cause of his civility toward us. 

He wanted talismans against sickness and evil spirits. 

His Lady was very sick, and he probably thought 

that a man of Jerusalem would be able to cure her in 

a magical manner. As soon as I spoke against the 

uselessness and sinfulness of talismanic writings, the 

Governor's civility considerably abated. Had I conde- 

scended to the superstitious and perverse ])ractices of 

the people, as probably many travellers in my situation 

would have done, I should in many cases have met 

with a better reception, and have avoided many priva- 

tions and hardshi])s to myself; but how would this 

agree with my duty and character of a Missionary ? 







468 LANGUAGE OF THE WAG COUNTRY. 



The village of Enalka belongs to the district of 

AYofila, being dependent on the Governor of Wag. I 

have forgotten to remark in my notes of yesterday, 

that the village of Deldei is the frontier of the govern- 

ment of Dejasmadj Faris. All the country in the north 

of that village is governed by the Governor of Wag, 

which is the country of the Agaus. Lasta was formerly 

in the hands of the Governor of Wag ; but Faris con- 

quered it, and has been confirmed in his government 

by Ras Ali. Lasta is bordered in the south by Angot, 

Yechoo, and Wadela ; in the west by Begemeder ; in 

the north by Wag ; and in the cast by Angot and the 

Eaia tribes. The country of Wag is dependent on 

Ras Ali; but this dependency appears to be very loose. 

The capital of the Governor of Wag is Sokota. Wofila 

is dependent on him, as already mentioned. The 

principal places in the south-east of Wofila, are Zelga, 

Bora, and the lake Ashanghe. The language spoken 

in Wofila is that of Tigre, by which it is bordered in 

the north-east ; while the language of Wag is totally 

different from any language in Abyssinia, so that I 

could not understand a word of it. It has neither 

affinity to the iEthiopic and Amharic, nor to the Galla 

language. It is totally a different tongue. I have 

been informed that the other tribes of Wag, which 

reside toward the sources of the Nile, have a language 

which is not understood by those Agaus whose country 

I have traversed. They told me, that the whole Wag 

country is divided into seven houses or tribes; but 







CHARACTER OF THE AGAUS. 469 



they could uot tell me their names^ nor could they 

inform me of their fonner histories. I have collected a 

number of words of the Agau language ; but unfortu- 

nately they were effaced by the rain, as they were 

WTitten on reeds, in consequence of the scantiness of 

paper which was left me by the robber Adara Bille, 



The Agaus differ as much from that of the rest of 

Abyssinia in their features, manners, and customs, as 

in their language. In one great thing, however, they 

agree with the other Abyssinians ; namely, the Chris- 

tian religion, and which has certainly tempered a little 

the character of savageness, spirit of independency, 

bravery in warfare, irascibleness, revengefulness, and 

rapacity, which is ascribed to them by the other 

Abyssinians, and which, I think, is pretty correct. 



Jj)rii 16, 1842.— We left Enalka at smirise. The 

priest whom I mentioned yesterday accompanied us for 

some distance, and showed us the road to Lat. In con- 

sequence of his advice we gave up the plan of taking 

the shortest road to the lake Ashanghc, and thought it 

better first to proceed to Lat, and there to make 

further inquiries respecting the security of our way. 

^Ve ascended till about ten o'clock. On the whole of 

our road, we saw only one hamlet, called Dafat. 

Having aiTived on the mountain, which we had been 

ascending since we left Enalka, we had a pretty view 

of the mountains of the Raia Gallas in the east. They 

pointed out the position of the lake Ashanghc ; but it 

being surrounded by mountains, I could uot see the 







470 NOTICES OF LAKE ASIIANGHE. 



water. From what I heard, however, I must conclude 

that it is not so large as lake Haik ; at all events there 

is no island in it. I was told that there are many 

villages around the lake, where there is a weekly 

market held. If I am not mistaken, I heard that the 

largest village, where the market is held, is called 

Wofila, close to Ashanghe. This is at the same time 

the name of the whole district or province. On the 

eastern shores of the lake are Gallas, and therefore 

great care must be taken which road you go in these 

hostile regions. I afterward very much regretted that 

I allowed the people on the road to discourage me with 

their statements of the insecurity of the access to the lake 

from having seen this interesting part of the country, 

as I was not more than eight or ten miles from the 

lake. But the desire of getting rid of his miseries 

and hardships frequently prevails on a traveller to let 

many opportunities escape, which, if he availed him- 

self of them, would afterward aiFord him the greatest 

pleasure from the favourable success which might have 

crowned his scientific endeavours. I was told by a 

native, that there is another small lake at some dis- 

tance from the large one; but I have forgotten its 

name. 



About twelve o'clock we arrived in the village of Lat, 

which is of considerable extent. I do not recollect 

having seen such a large village since I left the country 

of Yechoo. Probably the name of Woiilat is to be 

derived from the Amharic Wof-Lat, which means a fat 







ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF LAT. 471 



bird. But I do not know to what this origin of the 

name refers. 



We only intended to rest a little fi'om the fatigues of 

our roadj to inquii'e after our route to the lake Ashanghe, 

and then to go further; but the Alaca of the Church of 

St. George, who pretended to have seen me at Ankobar, 

begged me to stop. He delighted us with a cake of 

bread and a quantity of hog's beans. I learned from 

him that the Governor Wolda Medhen had encamped at 

Wofilat close to the lake Ashanghe, in order to collect 

the annual tribute of the people, consisting of sheep, 

cows, barley, hog's beans, &c. From the description 

which the Alaca gave me of the soldiers of Wolda 

^ledhen, I was not induced to go to the lake under 

present circumstances, although our route to Antalo 

would have been thereby shortened. A compass would 

have been useless, as the very route which we had now 

taken to avoid going to Ashanghe, afterward took us to 

the Governor of whose soldiers we were apprehensive. 



Having stopped a considerable time with the Alaca, 

we expressed oui- desire to depart. We had, however, 

scarcely marched a few hundi-ed yards from the village 

when we saw a man running after us, who proved to 

be the judge of the village. He said, " I beg you to 

rest with me this night ; 1 will give you whatever you 

want." Seeing his civility, I could not refuse going 

with him to his house, where he offered bread and 

honey-water. He then asked me whether I was ac- 

quainted with magic and talismanic writings. 1 first 







472 UNKIND RECEPTION 



asked him for what purpose he enquired. He replied, 

that his wife had been sick for several years, and had 

used many charms written by their counti-ymen, but 

that they had all proved useless; and that having heard 

that a man coming from Jerusalem had passed by, he 

had endeavoured to see him, to ask him for a talisman 

promising a better effect. I said, " If I had known 

that this was the reason of your calling me back from 

the road, I should not have accepted of your hospita- 

lity, as I cannot accomplish a request which the Word 

of God considers foolish, useless, and sinful." On 

hearing that I spoke against magical charms, he was 

instantly so much reduced in his civility, that he left 

the room, and never returned to look after us. He said 

to others, "What has been the use of my bringing 

this man here ? He cannot charm ; yea, he is opposed 

to it." The Alaca also began to be discouraged, and 

the whole party altered their sentiments so much, that 

they declared I was a Mahomedan, and should be or- 

dered to leave the house. In the evening, when I 

asked for a place to sleep upon in the room, I was told 

to go to bed without the doors of the house. I said, 

that their treatment was extremely improper, particu- 

larly as they had invited and called me back from the 

road. However, I slept in the open and cold air ; and 

as I did not know till now that this treatment arose 

from my having refused talismanic writings, I kept 

silence about the rude behaviour of this people. 



j4prll 17, 181<2 — Before day break our host came out 







AT THE VILLAGE OF LAT. 473 



of his house, and said, "Make haste and get up and leave 

this place." At the first moment I did not understand 

him, as I had no idea that the whole party would carry 

their anger so far as to persecute me. I thought that 

the troops of the Governor, of whom every body was 

afraid in the village, had arrived, and that our host had 

advised us to take flight. But I soon learned from one 

of my servants, who had been disputing with the host, 

on account of his behaviour of yesterday, that they 

considered me a Mahomedan in secret, because I had 

spoken against magic, and because 1 had declared that 

a man cannot be saved by means of fasting. I learned 

also, that they had held a council yesterday for the 

pvu-pose of catching and imprisoning me, because I had 

pretended to be a Christian, although I was a Maho- 

medan. The xVlaca declared that I was not Krapf 

whom he had seen at Aukobar ; that I was an impostor 

assuming his name ; and that Krapf would carry with 

him Amharic and ^thiopic books. On learning that 

this was the real state of things, I regretted that wc 

had departed so quickly and in such confusion. It was 

still dark, and we were unable to find om- road. We 

travelled for some time in the bed of a river which 

flows to the Tacazze, from which wc were distant only 

a few days' journey, ^ye were obliged to halt in the 

river till after day break, in order to be sure of our 

direction to Antalo in Enderta. After daylight we saw 

a village at some distance, and people coming up to us. 

But they could not tell us any thing about the route 







474- APPREHENSION OF AN ATTACK 



to iVntalOj which was still far off. We then asked 

whether this was the route to Bella Georgis, to which 

they answered in the affirmative. On asking about the 

residence of the Governor, we learned that he had not 

yet moved from the villages of Ashanghe. 



About ten o'clock we crossed another river, the name 

of which I could not ascertain. Its course was north- 

north-west, and it carried down a considerable quantity 

of water. Before we reached this river, we could 

scarcely find our way through the thorns and bushes, 

which caused us many difficulties in advancing toward 

the river. Our clothes, which we were obliged to pre- 

serve as well and as long as possible, as we had no 

others, were considerably damaged in this thorny 

jungle. 



About eleven o'clock we reached another river. We 

halted a little, and collected a quantity of ripe fruit of 

the wanza-tree, which appeased our appetites a little. 

From thence we passed by a village situated on the foot 

of a high mountain, which we had now to ascend. The 

countiy of Wofila appears to be better inhabited and 

cultivated than that of Angot and Lasta. Since we 

had left Lat, we observed many villages and tracts of 

land well cultivated ; but the reason is, that the des- 

truction of lias All's war had not extended so far. 



We reached the top of the mountain after mid-day. 

Our passage was sometimes extremely difficult and nar- 

row. The banks of the mountain had sometimes the 

appearance of high walls of rocks, a slip from whence 







FROM THE TROOPS OF WOLDA MEDHEN. 475 



would cause certain death. Toward the end of our 

ascent we observed several houses close to the way-side. 

We understood that they belonged to a Governor who 

is charged with watching the road. Nobody troubled 

us, as we had nothing that attracted their attention ; 

but should a traveller pass by with much luggage, he 

would certainly be detained by this Governor. 



Having reached the top of the mountain, we learned 

that the Governor Wolda Medhen with his troops had 

moved this morning from Zelga, and that he was ex- 

pected in Bella Georgis this afternoon. This was bad 

news to us : however we hoped that we should be able 

to pass by before his arrival. We marched as quickly 

as possible, although we were so tired, that we could 

scarcely move om* legs, having commenced our march 

before daybreak. We had two roads before us ; one 

leading east, and the other north-east. The position of 

Zelga, where the Governor was said to be, appeared to 

me precisely east. I therefore proposed to take the 

route of north-east, thinking that the distance from 

Zelga might be so considerable that we should not meet 

the Governor. But in this I was perfectly mistaken. 



We went on as quickly as we could ; but unfortunately 

we met no one who could give us better information of 

the Governor's movements. We at last saw a large 

village, to which we directed om* steps ; but on a sudden 

we were stopt by the deep and wall-like banks of a 

torrent. We had then to turn eastward ; but having 

travelled about three miles more, we reached the banks 







476 INTERVIEW WITH 



of another steep hill, from which we could see down 

into a little valley, where a part of the Governor's 

troops were encamped. Escape was now impossible, as 

they had seen us on the top of the hill. Every attempt 

to escape would only have raised more suspicion, and 

would perhaps have produced the worst consequences. I 

said to my servants, " As we cannot escape, it is better 

for us to go directly to the Governor and acquaint him 

with oui" situation : perhaps his heart will be affected, 

and God will prevent him from doing us mischief." 

So we accordingly went. On descending the valley to 

inquire after the Governor's tent, we observed some 

people coming toward us. We thought that they were 

soldiers coming to plunder us before we could reach 

the camp ; but one of them was a priest, who had a 

green field near the way-side, and thinking we were 

soldiers, he came to excommunicate whoever should 

walk over his field. We told the priest who we were, 

and that we wanted to see the Governor, and begged 

him for a man to accompany us to the Governor's tent. 

To this he consented. On leaving he requested me to 

say the Lord's Prayer with him. I did not refuse, and 

I can say that I prayed from all my heart. It was 

really a consolation in my critical situation. 



In moving toward the place where the Governor was 

said to be sitting under a tree, I was frequently re- 

quested by soldiers of the Wag country to give them 

a blessing. They either kneel or lie on the ground, 

till the blessing is pronounced ; and have a strong be- 







AVOLDA MEDHExV. 477 



lief that this blessing, particularly when it is given by 

a man of Jerusalem, will be of use to them. It ap- 

peared to me that they thus seek more for temporal 

than spii'itual and eternal good. Many thought that 

my blessing would secure them against every ball from 

the muskets of the enemy ; and others thought that 

they would be enabled to pay their debts, &c. I there- 

fore always endeavoured to give my blessing in such a 

manner as to excite a desire in their minds for their 

real spiritual welfare. 



The Governor's tent was not yet pitched. I therefore 

met him in the open an*. Fortunately, I had met his 

father confessor, who had the kindness to introduce me 

to him. I saluted the Governor in Amharic, which he 

and most of the bystanders understood, the Amharic 

being the language of the Court of Has Ali. On his 

asking me from whence I came, I gave him a short 

naiTative of my journey from Shoa, to which he listened 

with gi-eat attention, ^lien his favourite people heard 

of the baggage which I had been deprived of in the 

Wollo country, they said, " AVhat a pity it is that he 

did not bring his goods to us ;" i.e. we would have 

been glad of robbing him. I said, that the reason 

which had induced me to see him, was, because I wished 

him to protect me in going through his country, and 

to provide me with provisions, as I was in bad circum- 

stances in this respect. He then ordered me to sit 

down in the shade of another tree till his tent was 

pitched, when he called me again, and held a long con- 







478 INTERVIEW WITH 



versation. He asked what I had with me. I rephed, 

that I had nothing but a Uttle book^ which I took out 

of my pocket and showed to him. He asked, what 

book it was ; to which I rephed, that it was a copy of 

the New Testament in the language of my country. 

He then asked, whether its contents agreed with the 

New Testament of his country. I said, " Certainly it 

does,'^ and translated 1 John i., when he exclaimed with 

great joy, " I see ! I see ! I see ! it is the same." I 

then gave a short explanation of the contents, which 

particularly attracted the attention of the priest, who 

appeared to me to be a man of much understanding. 

They then asked about Jerusalem, whether it was true 

that children did not die there. I said, that they die 

there as in all other countries when the houi* of death 

is come by the appointment of God. It must be re- 

marked that pilgrims coming from Jerusalem tell their 

Abyssinian countrymen many falsehoods. For instance, 

they make them believe that children do not die in Je- 

rusalem — that at the Abuna^s ordination a dove waves 

over his head, in sign of the reception of the Holy 

Ghost — that the water of the Jordan is as white as 

lime — that the house of the Patriarch at Cairo, is com- 

posed of gold — and that at Easter a light falls from 

heaven over the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. The 

Abyssinians will frequently ask you about these things; 

but it will always have a bad effect if you tell them 

you have not been in Jerusalem, as they will not lay 

any stress on your arguments, and I truly regret that 







WOLDA MEDHEN. 479 



I have never seen Jerusalem. Many think you are no 

Christian if you tell them that you have not been in 

Jerusalem. 



Ha'ing finished the conversation, the Governor 

ordered me to take my resting-place any where in the 

open air, till he would give me leave to depart to-mor- 

row. I walked off with feehngs of the greatest joy and 

thanksgiving to my heavenly Guide, after having been 

for some time in great apprehension from the Governor 

and his troops. 



April 18j 1842 — With the greatest anxiety I waited 

for daybreak, being anxious to learn the result of my 

application to the Governor. The impression which his 

beha^^om• had given me yesterday was favourable, and 

I could not think that any thing of a disastrous nature 

would happen. Last evening he sent a piece of bread 

for each of our party. His people however showed 

some rudeness of behaviour, which did not signify so 

long as I had the good will of their master in my 

favoui'. Here it was that I heard a true account of the 

robbery committed against the French gentleman before 

mentioned. I must confess that this communication 

caused very painful feelings in my mind, ])articularly 

when the reporter, a servant of the then Governor of 

Sokota, told me, that he was one of the robbing party ; 

that they had intended to kill the gentleman, but that he 

afterward made his escape ; and that therefore it would 

not signify if I should be murdered in his stead. I could 

rest but httle during the night, and I got up several 







480 TAKE LEAVE OF WOLDA MEDHEN. 



times, and recommended my life and that of my ser- 

vants to the protecting power of my heavenly Father, 

who made me experience this morning that my poor 

and humble prayer had not been in vain. 



After sunrise I repaired to the Governor's tent to 

take leave of him. Having waited a long time amidst 

a crowd of gazing and annoying soldiers who watched 

the access to the tent, I was at last introduced by the 

father-confessor, whose kindness I had already experi- 

enced. The Governor appeared to be in good humour, 

and without any bad intention against me or my ser- 

vants. He commenced the conversation by saying, that 

he would have asked me for a pair of spectacles, if I 

had been able to comply with his request. I replied, 

that it would have afforded me great pleasure, if I had 

been able to return his kindness with any thing pleas- 

ing to him ; but that my circumstances would not 

allow me to do so. He then gave orders to his favou- 

rite servant to provide me for his souFs sake, as he said, 

with two madegas* of barley, to be given me in a village 

on the road. I thanked him, and then bid him farewell, 

having first, at his request, given him a blessing. 



Thus the man who recalled to our minds the remem- 

brance of Adara Bille, proved to be a lamb compared 

with that robber. AYe had endeavoured yesterday to 

avoid this dangerous place ; but to-day we were glad 

that we did not succeed. 



* Madega is a measure used in Tigre, equal to sixteen Kunna in Shoa, 

which contains about fifty pounds in weight. 







ARRIVE AT THE TILLAGE OF KARAXGHE. 481 



The servant who was ordered to collect the barley, 

strictly executed his master's command ; but we had to 

wait several hours in the ^-illage. We had now such a 

quantity of provisions, that my people had to carry the 

loads by tm-us ; but they were ready to bear every 

hardship. We joj-fully prosecuted our journey, daily 

receiving fresh proofs of the faithfid care of our hea- 

venly Father. 



^Tien we had crossed the river Ghebia, we were over- 

taken by violent rain. The wind and rain rendered 

the air rather cold, and the hard work of ascending 

and descending the moimtains and hills on foot pro- 

duced a continual perspiration. Fortunately we reached 

in due time the village of Karanghe, where a man 

kindly received us into his house, lighted a fire, and 

made us a little comfortable. Falling upon my knees, 

I offered the sacrifice of humble thanksgiving to Him 

who had graciously brought me a further step on my 

tiresome pilgi'image. Thus it is with the life of a 

Christian, who is now in sorrow, and then in joy ; who 

weeps in the evening, and rejoices in the morning, till 

his earthly journey is over, and he enjoys eternal and 

immutable happiness in heaven. 



April 19, 1842 — We left Karanghe before sunrise 

in a north-east-east direction. As this day was the 

anniversary of St. Michael the archangel, our host was 

gone to church before we could take leave of him. 

Although we had yesterday ascended considerably, yet 

we had to ascend this morning still more through a 



Y 







482 ENTER THE DISTRICT OF BORA : 



country full of thorns and gi*ass. We saw however no 

village, nor did we meet any inhabitants. I was struck 

at the great number of partridges, which I have no- 

where seen in such an abundance as on this mountain. 

One charge would have provided us with food for 

several days ; but our weapons were in the hands of 

Adara Bille. The country around was extremely hilly, 

and reminded me of Geshe in northern Shoa. Tor- 

rents run between the high and steep mountains, which 

were full of thorns and trees of various kinds of wood. 

Having reached the top of the mountain, we had a 

pretty view of the provinces of Wag and Semien. The 

mountains of Semien appeared to be elevated to the 

sky, till the clouds withdi-ew their tops from om' con- 

templation. One of the highest mountains of Wag is 

Biala, on the eastern foot of which Sokota, the capital 

of Wag, was said to be. Here resides the present 

Governor, Taferri, who sends from hence his officers 

at certain times over the whole country to collect tri- 

bute. 



About ten o'clock we entered the district of Bora, the 

name of which is derived from the white stripes which 

mark all the hills around. Each stratum of rocks pre- 

sents a white and somewhat grey appearance to the eye. 

There are several large caves, which might give shelter 

to several hundred men. 



In the first village of Bora we met the Governor, 

Woldaa JMichael. He was sitting under a tree by the 

wayside, holding a consultation with his people. 







INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR. 483 



Observing the people from a distance^ I conjec- 

tured that there was a Governor among them, and 

having been treated well yesterday by the Governor 

Wolda Teclo, I thi*ew away all the apprehensions 

which I had entertained in Lasta. On approaching 

the place where the consultation was held, I endea- 

voui'ed to avoid the people by going my way with- 

out asking who they were, or what they w^ere doing. 

But the Governor sent his servant, who requested 

me to wait on his master, whose robber-hke appear- 

ance instantly deprived me of confidence. He asked 

from whence I came, and what was my business. I 

told him that I had been in Shoa to teach the Word 

of God, as I was a Christian priest coming from a 

country called England, situated beyond Jerusalem. 

At first he would not believe that I had been in Shoa, 

as he had not heard that I went there by way of Wag, 

and it appeared he did not hke to hear that there was 

another road by way of Adel. When I related to him 

what misfortunes had befallen me in Adara Bille's, 

he laughed with his servants, saying, " We should have 

been delighted at seeing you with your property : 

we should have liked you much indeed, and would 

have bought every thing from you.^' He then wanted 

to try my spectacles, my boots ; in fact every thing he 

saw. Fortunately, however, nothing suited him. He 

then asked, whether 1 knew the new Abuna, and whe- 

ther I had been in Jerusalem and seen all the wonder- 

ful things, of which they had heard from pilgrims. On 

Y 2 







484 THE RIVER SHEMSHEHO: 



departing, one of my servants was called and asked by 

him xipon an oath, whether I had no bafta (white cloth) ; 

whether I had nothing at all for sale ; and whether I 

was not acquainted with magic. My servant, of course, 

answered in the negative to all these questions ; and 

we were then allowed to depart. 



I have never seen a country where people talk so 

much of gold as the people of Wag. Their conversa- 

tion immediately turns to this subject. They believed 

in earnest that I had plenty of gold with me, as I had 

no other baggage. "VMien I asked, whether if I had 

plenty of gold, I should make such a miserable appear- 

ance in which they saw me, they answered, — " It is true 

you have no mule, and you beg for yom- daily bread ; 

but this is the clearest proof of your carrying gold 

with you, because all people act as you do if they 

travel with this precious metal in their pockets." 



About twelve o'clock we passed the river Shemsheho, 

which runs to the Tacazze. It carries much water in 

its bed, which is surrounded on the banks with beauti- 

ful trees. The river is full of iish ; and we saw about 

thirty naked men busy in catching the fish with their 

hands. It is well known that fish is a substitute also 

in Abyssinia for all other kinds of meat during the 

time of fasting. I understand that the new Abuna 

has forbidden the eating of fish during the time of 

fasting. 



From the river Shemsheho, which comes from the 

east, we had to ascend through a wilderness, the thorns 







ABUNDANCE OF FISH. 485 



of wliich again damaged our clothes^ of wliicli we took 

care as of gold and silver. 



About three o'clock we were overtaken by thunder 

and lightning, and subsequently rain, which troubled 

us in general every afternoon till we had reached 

the province of Tigr-e, where we had very little rain. 

Fortunately we found shelter in a cave of rocks 

close to the wayside. After the rain had ceased we 

continued our march, having resolved not to pass 

the night in the Agau country, but in the first village 

of Enderta, which we were told we could reach before 

night. We were unable, however, to accompHsh this, 

as the rain again overtook us. At a distance we saw a 

village on a small hill, and we thought it better to go 

on in the rain, than to be overtaken on the road by the 

approaching night. But when we came near the village, 

we learned to our great astonishment, that the Go- 

vernor of the district had encamped in this place, 

and soon afterward we saw some soldiers coming to- 

ward us. On their asking who we were, I said, " I 

am a priest coming from Shoa, and I want to see your 

master, as 1 have heard that he is encamped here, and 

that he is a good man toward strangers.'' The soldiers 

stared at us, never hadng seen such a set of beings. 

However, they were civil, and conducted me to their 

master. As he did not understand Amharic, our con- 

versation was carried on by means of a Dragoman. He 

asked a hundred questions about my journey to Shoa, 

mv business there ; about Jerusalem, &c. ; but after all 







486 ARRIVE ON THE FRONTIER 



he showed some compassion for me. When I left his 

room, he gave me a servant, who was to provide me 

with food and a lodging for the night. The servant on 

learning that I was a priest, quartered me in the house 

of the chief priest of the village, who was no bad man. 

We were made comfortable, and treated civilly 

in every respect. The inhabitants of this district, as 

well as the Governor's servants and soldiers, appeared 

to be very religious in their own way. They came one 

after the other to be blessed by me. Many had the 

superstitious idea which I have already mentioned, that 

my blessing would preserve them against the stroke of 

swords, spears, and gunballs; and therefore they 

most anxiously begged me for a blessing. A preacher 

of the Gospel might be able to obtain a great influence 

in this country, if he could understand the Agau lan- 

guage, to which however no attention has yet been 

paid by Abyssinian scholars. But, on the other hand, a 

juggler might also set himself up as a great man in 

this country. As to the language of Wag, I suppose 

it will be supplanted in the coui'se of time either by the 

Amharic, or by the Tigre language, which is spoken by 

most of the Agaus. It will depend on the prevalence 

of the government of Tigre or of Amhara. 



Thus we had arrived on the frontier of the Wag 

country, which is decidedly one of the most important 

and interesting provinces of Eastern Abyssinia. It 

would admit a larger population and a high degree of 

cultivation of the soil, if a better government ruled this 







OF THE WAG COUNTRY. 487 



country. It would be necessary, however, for such a 

government to do away with the system of annually 

plundering their own subjects, as this is the very means 

to destroy commerce, order, cultivation of the ground, 

and ever)'^ improvement of human society. At present 

the Governor comes annually with his troops and takes 

away what he pleases ; and the consequence is, that the 

inhabitants conceal their treasures, and take flight to 

the mountains ; whereupon the Governor destroys their 

houses and fields. As Wag is a country intersected by 

deep dales, torrents, and steep hills, which only allow 

certain passages to their tops, and as the rivers of Wag 

would be defended, and their store-houses well pre- 

served on the top of their almost impregnable hills, 

the inhabitants would be able to check the strongest 

invading army, as has been the case frequently in the 

annals of Abyssinia. Has Ali on his last expedition, 

which he several years ago attempted against Wag, is a 

remarkable instance of this. He invaded the country 

with a considerable army ; but finding the natural bul- 

wark of the country too strong, he returned, being con- 

tent with devastating those districts which admitted of 

access. This natural fortification is the reason why the 

people of Wag yield only a very loose allegiance to 

the rulers of Gondar ; why they throw off their yoke 

whenever they please ; and why they use a haughty lan- 

guage toward the rest of Abyssinia, The chief Gover- 

nor of Wag is said to be in the possession of several 

thousand match-lock-guns, a report which may be true, 







488 TAKE LEAVE OF THE GOVERNOR. 



as he can obtain every tiling that he wants from Mas- 

sowah. 



The principal market-place of Wag is Sokota, the 

capital of Wag's Governors. Its merchants carry their 

goods to Woldaia^ the capital of Yechoo, and go and 

fetch other goods from Antalo, or even from Massowah. 

They are principally engaged in carrying salt-pieces to 

the south of Wag, a business which proves of great 

profit to them, as the value of salt-pieces increases in 

the southern countries. 



The Agaus chiefly cultivate barley, wheat, red pepper, 

and maize. Their houses are of the same construction 

as those of other Abyssinians. 



I was told that gold is found in the country of Wag ; 

but I cannot say whether this report is true or not. 

I was frequently asked whether I knew how gold was 

to be discovered in mountanis, and how the works in 

mines are managed. They entertain, like all other 

Abyssinians, the idea that white people only come to 

their country in quest of gold ; and that a white man 

knows the places where there is gold. 



Ajyril 20, 1842— Early this morning I went to the 

Governor to thank him for his kindness, and to take 

leave of him. On being admitted to his presence, he 

appeared still more civil to me than yesterday. I did not 

venture, however, to ask him for provisions, and he did 

not offer any thing of his own accord. Haing at his 

request given him a blessing, I started from the camp, 

and moved toward the river Tzana, which separates the 







THE RIVER TZANA. 489 



country of Wag from that of Enderta and Tigre. This 

river rises in the east of the mountains of Wag and 

runs to the Tacazze. It is a fine river, and carries 

much water in its bed. Its banks are surrounded with 

trees and bushes, and the inhabitants of Wag and the 

people of Enderta on the other side cultivate every spot 

of soil which they can gain from the river. We arriv- 

ed at this river at eleven o'clock a. m. The last part 

of the Wag country, through which we had travelled 

this morning, was well cultivated and inhabited. This 

is probably owing to the inhabitants being close to 

the frontier of another country, to which in time of 

war they can take refuge. I left the Wag country 

with feelings of great satisfaction, although I had ex- 

perienced in it a great many difficulties. Its costly 

water — its healthy air — its pretty scenery — the man- 

ner of its inhabitants in asking for a blessing — and its 

interesting system of mountains and rivers, will be 

ever remembered by me. 



To our great sorrow we learned from peo])le coming 

from Antalo, the capital of Enderta, that the whole of 

Tigre was in a state of confusion and rebellion. We 

were told, that the Governor, Guebra Medhen, was 

encamping in the neighbourhood of the river Tzana 

with a considerable detachment of those ferocious Raia 

Gallas, who had been subject to the rulers of Tigre 

since the time of Ras Wolda Sclassieh and Sabagadis. 

This intelligence was extremely disagreeable to us, as 

we had believed that on entering Tigre, we should 

Y 5 







490 NOTICES OF GUEBRA MEDHEN. 



meet with less difficulties and privations. But it was 

evidently the will of our invisible Friend to let the 

miseries remain on oui- shoulder to the last moment of 

our arrival on the coast. 



Guebra IMedhen was a favourite of Sabagadis, who 

married one of his daughters to him. When Saba- 

gadis died, and Oubea took possession of Tigre, Gue- 

bra Medhen took flight to the high mountains of 

the Raia Gallas, with whom he lived till the news of 

Oubea's captivity reachedhim in his impregnable strong- 

hold. He then collected a considerable force, and 

expelled the Governor of Silloa, who was of Oubea^s 

party. Silloa is that district of Enderta which we 

had entered, having crossed the river Tzana. Guebra 

Medhen joined the cause of Balgadaraia, gi-andson of 

Ras Wolda Selassieh, who having heard of Oubea's 

imprisonment by Has Ali, attempted to make himself 

master of Tigre, as I have mentioned above. 



The man who had apprised us of the state of things 

in Tigre, likewise informed us that the expelled Gover- 

nor of Silloa had collected a new force, and would pro- 

bably come to an engagement with Guebra Medhen. 

He therefore advised us to reach Antalo, if possible, 

before the road should be disturbed and rendered in- 

secure by the fighting parties, and before starvation, 

which is always the consequence of such disturbances, 

would render our situation still more precarious. 



Having crossed the river Tzana, which runs in a 

deep bed between a range of mountains on both its 







HALT IN THE VILLAGE OF BORA. 491 



banks, we had a long and difficult ascent before us. 

The ciy of the Agau ploughmen resounded strongly in 

the dale of the Tzana, and made us sometimes believe 

that there was a body of troops engaged in fighting, or 

a brisk quarrel between some parties. I observed the 

same custom in many parts of Enderta. ^'VTien 

ploughing, they make as much noise as possible, in 

order to drive on their bullocks, with which they con- 

verse as if they were rational companions. A traveller 

unacquainted with the custom, or not understanding 

the language, would imagine that there was a quarrel 

or a plundering party at hand, and give way to unne- 

cessary apprehensions. 



Having arrived on the mountain which we had been 

ascending since we left the river Tzana, we halted in 

the village of Bora, being the first village in the province 

of 'Enderta. Here we learned that Guebra Medhen 

had moved his camp to the east, toward the village of 

Shebrara. We resolved to go and see the Governor, 

having found from experience that it is better to travel 

under the protection of the Governor of a district or 

province. Our road led us over rocky hills, dales, and 

torrents, which we cared little for, as we wished to 

reach the camp of Guebra Medhen before night. I 

can understand why the Governors of Wag and Enderta 

ordinarily live in peace with each other : the frontier 

of both provinces being of such a nature, that the diffi- 

culties of making inroads or entering these countries 

for the pui"pose of conquest are almost insurmountable. 







492 DEPARTURE FROM SHEBRARA. 



Having arrived in Shebrara, we learned that Guebra 

Medhen bad moved still further to the east. We were 

therefore compelled to give up our intention of reach- 

ing him to-daj^ ; besides, it was already evening. We 

then looked for a lodging for the night ; but every 

body in the village made an excuse, by sapng that the 

Governor had taken their property, and rendered the 

people unable to receive strangers, as they had scarcely 

food for their own wants. With sorrowful hearts, and 

sometimes weeping, we went from house to house, till 

at last we found a host who gave us shelter and food 

for the night, which was a rainy and cold one, 



A2)ril 21, 1842 — Soon after day-break we departed 

from Shebrara. We did not however take om- dii-ection 

to the camp of Guebra Medhen, as we had been warned 

by om- kind host not to go there, intelligence having 

been received that the Raia soldiers had killed some 

people travelling from Antalo to the Wag country. 

Our host accompanied us for a considerable distance 

through a by-way, by which we were able to avoid the 

Governor's camp. But this by-way soon led us into a 

wilderness, where we entirely lost our road. 



About ten o'clock we traversed a large woody plain, 

where we found several ruined villages, but no inhabi- 

tants whom we could ask about om* road. We went 

on in this wilderness till about midday, when we found 

another village, likewise ruined, but not a single person 

able to show us the road. We still proceeded on in 

an easterly direction ; but we saw nothing but thorns 







ENCOUNTER GREAT DIFFICULTIES. 493 



and ruined villages on some hills. Fatigue, thirst, 

and still more our apprehensions of the neighbouring 

Raia Gallas, began to vex us to a considerable degree. 

Being always afraid of these Gallas, I proposed to turn 

round to north-east and north, as this dii-ection could 

not lead us to their country, whatever might be the 

consequence. But this new route led us to a complete 

wilderness, where we could not observe the least trace 

of a human foot. The grass was so high, that we 

could not see one another, and one of om* party was 

several times left behind ; a circumstance which caused 

the most painful feelings, as we could not venture to 

make much noise on account of the Gallas, and as the 

approach of night precluded us from halting, and com- 

pelled us by all means to find our I'ight road. How- 

ever, we fortunately joined our man, whom the fatigues 

of the day, the height of the grass, and the thicket of 

thorns, had prevented from keeping pace with us. 

But the worst part of our difficulty now began. Driven 

in on both sides by the steepness of mountains, which 

we were unable to ascend, not knowing the path, we 

were compelled to jump from rock to rock, the space 

between which was sometimes overgrown with grass. 

Having fortunately finished this mancEuvre, we were 

received again by our enemies, the thorns, through 

which we had to wind with the utmost precaution. 

Profuse perspiration from this exercise — thirst and 

weariness— fear of the Gallas — apprehensions as to 

the road and approach of the night — and sorrow for 







494 ARRIVE AT THE 



my poor starving people, exhausted me so much, that 

I laid down on the ground to rest, whatever might 

befal us in this precarious situation. 



All around being as still as night, and seeming des- 

titute and lost, we heard the purling of some water in 

the neighbourhood. Creeping up and down through 

high grass and thorns, we reached a small rivulet. 

This discovery produced a greater cheerfulness in our 

minds, than the discovery of the sources of the Nile 

would have given, as we now were in hope of getting 

out of this dreadful and endless wilderness. We first 

refreshed ourselves, by drinking of the delightful water 

of the rivulet, and then followed its northern course, 

in the cheerful conviction that it must lead us to our 

lost road. About five o^ clock we had the unutterable 

joy to find a road crossing the rivulet and leading up 

to a mountain, from which we thought we should be 

able to see or to learn something of the position of 

Antalo. The road was pretty large, and trodden by the 

paces of men and animals, and we had no more doubt 

of this being the way to Antalo. Having walked about 

half way up the mountain, we were met by a small 

company of people, who proved to be some priests and 

soldiers of the Governor Guebra Medhen. They had 

set out from Antalo for the purpose of joining their 

master in the camp. They were astonished at finding 

us quite alone without a guide or a caravan in the present 

state of disturbances. They regretted that we had not 

visited their master, who, they said, would probably 







VILLAGE OF MAWOINL 495 



have given me a mule. They then confirmed us in the 

truth of our way, which we then prosecuted as cheer- 

fully and as quickly as our tired legs would allow. On 

arriving at the top of the moimtain, we saw a large 

valley, and many T.llages in it. We accordingly direct- 

ed our course toward the valley, and took shelter for 

the night in the Church of St. Michael, in the village 

of Mawoini, as the villagers would not receive us. 



Tired as I was from the uncommon hardships of this 

day, I laid dowTi at the entrance of the church to 

sleep, when I was called upon by a monk, who had 

arrived from Debra Tabor a few months ago. He ap- 

peared to be no bigoted monk, and seemed to be con- 

cerned at our helpless condition. He called me to his 

little cottage, which he had built close to the church, 

and gave me of the holy bread, which nobody who is 

not in holy orders can either see or taste. This bread 

is properly called makfelt j i. e, portion baked only 

for those priests who take the Lord's Supper. It is 

made of the size of a small loaf, and prepared from 

corn-flour. It weighs a little less than a pound. The 

priests are only allowed to eat this bread when they 

have finished the Lord's Supper, as nobody can partake 

of this who has not fasted. This sort of bread is never 

shown to laymen, and is considered one of the greatest 

mysteries and privileges of the priesthood. The monk 

put it secretly in my pocket, lest my servants should 

see it, although they were not even allowed to come 

near the cottage of the holy hermit. However, I after- 







496 CONVERSATION WITH 



ward showed it to my people^ who were astonished at 

finding it common bread, and at its having been with- 

held from their sight and considered a great mystery. 

Ventuiing to eat of it, they said, that it did not differ 

from any other sort of bread. It must be added, that 

this bread is prepared by the male sex, or by old 

women, who grind the flour and bake the loaves . 

Ordinarily the man must be a deacon. As the priests 

go daily to the Lord's Supper, they receive daily a por- 

tion of this bread ; but they must eat it fasting. Of 

course I had no objection to partake of this bread, as 

the fatigue of my journey had made me uncommonly 

hungiy. At another time I would not have accepted 

the gift, as the bread was very badly baked, and nothing 

but hot dough ; but hunger being the best sauce, I ate 

with great appetite, and my people were of the same 

mind. 



The monk asked me much about the time of the ap- 

pearance of Theodotos, whom the Abyssinians expect as 

the founder of a kingdom of peace and happiness on 

earth. I said that I knew nothing about this person, 

as I did not think it my duty to ask about the hour or 

time when the Kingdom of God will be established on 

earth, but to pray and labour that it might first come 

in my own heart, and then among my poor fellow- 

creatures, who did not enjoy the knowledge and the 

living faith of Christ. " Preach the Gospel in the whole 

world," I said, " then you will have a sign that God^s 

kingdom is at hand." I could not obtain their correct 







PRIESTS OF MAWOINI. 497 



idea of this Theodotos, and how they heard of this 

name. Probably there was a former King of Abyssinia, 

whose peaceable character produced this idea. You 

frequently find this name at the end of their books ; 

but I am not yet clearly informed of this subject^ want- 

ing further enquiries. 



As the other priests were going to trouble me with 

many questions respecting Jerusalem, the Coptic 

Patriarch — whether he was the first prelate of the 

whole of Christian communities, and whether he had 

ordained me — respecting our di-ine serdce, fasting, &c.; 

the monk said, " You must not trouble him with many 

questions, as he is tired from the fatigues of his jour- 

ney : let him rest, and ask him afterward.'^ The con- 

siderate monk also added, that he was always angry at 

such childish people who troubled him with questions 

on his journeys, and that he thought it was very im- 

proper. This monk was much respected by all whom 

I saw around him, and I think he is an exception to 

the generality of monks. He was accessible to scrip- 

tural explanations. that I might have once the in- 

finite pleasure of finding one, only one, real and 

enlightened Christian in Abyssinia ! Many are not 

far from the kingdom of heaven ; but what is the use 

of their drawing near the door, if they will not go in ? 

However, I will not get tired with Abyssinia, till the 

Lord in His infinite mercy gives the increase to our 

planting and watering. 



In the evening the priests gave us some bread and 







498 LEAVE THE VILLAGE OF MAWOINL 



pepper-soup for our supper. They said that they 

were not rich, as Oubea had taken their property, and 

related to us some instances of his cruelty in pulling 

out the eyes and cutting off the hands of many of his 

subjects. 



April 22, 1842 — The terrible noise of the singing 

priests, and still more the fleas, which are always the 

greatest torture to those who pass the night in churches, 

had annoyed me so much, that I waited for the break 

of day with the most ardent desire. As soon as it 

dawned, we got up and departed, having taken leave 

of the priests last evening. On our road, which was 

exactly west, we saw plenty of villages ruined by 

Oubea, of whose barbarity the whole country bears 

witness. 



About nine o'clock we crossed a rivulet called 

Gumalo. It runs through a dale of steep banks. On 

the western banks we saw a village, which we took for 

Antalo, as the priests of Mawoini had told us that 

Antalo was quite close, and that we would reach it in 

the forenoon ; but I frequently found that priests and 

monks in Abyssinia have not the least idea of dis- 

tances. Having crossed the rivulet Gumalo, we had 

to ascend considerably till we reached the village, like- 

wise called Gumalo. The banks of the bed of the 

rivulet are well cultivated, as the soil can be watered 

at all times. From Gumalo we marched south-west, 

and were led to an immense plain with some slight 

elevations. On arriving at this plain, we got a sight 







ARRIVE AT ANTALO. 499 



of AntalOj situated at the foot of a mountain, the soil 

of which presented a red appearance. The plain, how- 

ever, was considerably lower than the situation of 

Antalo; and the nearer we approached the town, the 

more we had to ascend. When we first saw it, we 

thought it nearer than it really was, as is frequently 

the case when a traveller calculates distances from a 

plain. He is often greatly disappointed, and it re- 

quii'es more practice in calculating distances, than one 

would commonly think. 



We arrived at Antalo about four o'clock. Being 

unable to find a lodging for the night, we repaired to 

the Chiu'ch of St. George, which was splendidly built 

by Ras Wolda Selassieh, who is well known by Mr. 

Salt's Mission to this ruler. The priests of this 

church difi"ered much fi'om those whom we had met in 

other churches on our road. They were better dressed ; 

but they assumed a greater air of haughtiness, particularly 

the Alaca, who looked down upon my poor appearance 

with much disdain. He would not allow me to pass the 

night in the little house called Decha-Salama, at the en- 

trance of the church, in which strangers are usually quar- 

tered. However, he procured me a room in the neighbour- 

hood ; but this was full of women and soldiers, who 

at first would not listen to the Alaca's orders, and the 

women began to lament crying out, " Woi Giptzi ! woi 

Giptzi ! " " Egyptian ! Egyptian ! " The Europeans 

arc all called lOgyptians, the geographical knowledge 

of the Abyssinians regarding other countries being very 







500 NOTICES RESPECTING THE 



scanty indeed. However, they have lately begun to 

know the difference between the English, French, and 

Germans. 



Only one of the priests came to see me in my room, 

who entered into conversation on religious matters. 

He knew the Rev. S. Gobat well, and spoke favourably 

of him. He gave me two pieces of salt, requesting 

that I would buy some hydromel, or Abyssinian honey 

wine. He also gave us some bread, which with what 

was sent us by the other priests was sufficient to serve 

us for our supper in the evening. My people went 

round the town; but nobody would give them any 

thing; so that we should have really starved if we 

had refused to go to the church. Besides, nobody 

would give us a lodging for the night. I must con- 

fess that I had conceived a more favourable idea of the 

hospitality of the Tigrians ; but I was wholly dis- 

appointed. Perhaps if I had possessed property, I 

should have been received better. 



The circumference of Antalo is considerable ; but 

the greater part of the houses have been ruined. 

Merso, the brother of Oubea, whom this tyrant ap- 

pointed Governor of Antalo, after Cassai, the son of 

Sabagadis, had been imprisoned, destroyed a gi-eat 

many of the houses of Antalo. It must have been 

before a pretty town. Its founder was Ras "VYolda 

Selassieh, who has chosen a suitable place for his 

capital. Below Antalo is an immense plain, through 

which several brooks run. This plain served for the 







TOWN OF ANTALO. 501 



excursions of Ras Wolda Selassieh, and for the ^'ants of 

his househokl horse. The neighboiu-hood of the Raia 

Gallas was frequently the theatre of war, and Ras 

Wolda Selassieh by residing at Antalo could secure 

the weakest point of his extensive dominions. 



I learned with regret that Balgadaraia, the grand- 

son of Ras Wolda Selassieh, had set out from Antalo 

with his troops the day before I arrived, in order to 

attack IN^ebrid Wolda Selassieh, Governor of Axum, 

who kept up the influence and party of Oubea. I was 

also told, that a European had arrived from Adowah 

to join Balgadaraia on his march. I was sorry that I 

had been deprived of the opportunity of making my 

acquaintance with this new ruler of Tigre. From what 

I could learn, the Tigrians are very fond of him, and 

they entertain the hope that he will be able to stand 

the field against Oubea, should he march against Tigre 

after he has settled the business with his brother Merso 

in Semien. Should Oubea really return, and regain his 

cause in Tigre, he would probably desolate the whole 

country, which is already reduced to the very brink of 

ruin. At all events, I cannot believe that the British 

Government will be ready to assist such a proud, 

avaricious, cruel, and cunning ruler. Every assistance 

granted to him, would be nothing else than putting a 

sword into his hands to use against his own subjects ; 

and notwithstanding all the generosity which the 

British might show toward him, he would iu!ver be a 

sincere friend to them nor to otlier Europeans. He 







502 LEAVE ANTALO FOR CHELICUT. 



would only make them the means of obtaining his 

own objects^ principally to get from them the same 

pleasing things which he knows have been given to the 

King of Shoa. 



I had intended, for many important reasons, to pro- 

ceed from Antalo to Adowah; but the distance of 

three or four days deviation from my route, the way 

being through starving and distm'bed countries, and my 

ardent desire to reach Massowah, and the end of my 

miseries and hardships, would not allow me to make 

this deviation from my road, although I knew that I 

should deprive myself of much valuable information 

respecting the state of the country, which I might have 

been able to collect at Adowah. 



April 23, 1842. — At a very early hour this morning 

we set out for Chelicut, about six or eight miles from 

Autalo. A body of soldiers, who were going to join 

Balgadaraia on his march to Adowah, accompanied us 

for a considerable distance. They were in very good 

humour, and had gi-eat hopes of a favoui'able result of 

their master's expedition. Our road was pretty plain. 

Not far from Antalo we saw an immense flock of 

baboons, called in Amharic Eatchie, of a somewhat 

white colour. They were close to the wayside. I was 

surprised at the good order in which they marched, 

some large ones walking before and behind each line, 

which they formed. After a few moments they halted 

a little and gazed at us, as if they were about to make 

an attack upon us. They marched round a small 







SITUATION OF CHELICUT. 503 



elevated spot, and then crossed our road, where they 

agam halted a little, till they walked up to a larger hill 

in as perfect order as if they had been ranged in a 

square. The noise which their movements produced 

exactly resembled the bustle of a small body of horse 

marching over a grass plot. I thought it would be 

well were the Abyssinian soldiers in their military 

movements to imitate these brutes in the regularity of 

their march and continual circumspection and recon- 

noitring. This kind of monkey is generally acknow- 

ledged by the Abyssinians as a sort of more ferocious 

ape. 



Chelicut is situated in a little dale intersected by 

a ri^Tilet which provides the town with water. This 

situation in Europe would give rise to the establish- 

ment of numerous manufactories ; but in Abyssinia 

nobody thinks or exerts himself to make use of the 

benefits arising from the natm'c of the country. The 

inhabitants are ready to accept ^4th the greatest 

eagerness pleasing things as presents ; but they have 

little desire to manufacture them by hard labour. 

Having heard that there was in Chelicut an Armenian 

who worked in leather, I called u])on him ; but I 

found him suffering in his eyes. I did not venture to 

ask him for a supply of any thing, as I was aware 

of his being a poor man ; but even the offer of a 

piece of bread, or a horn of Abyssinian beer, which 

at all events he possessed, would have delighted me 

more than any thing else ; but he appeared dui'ing his 







504 THE VILLAGE OF ARENA MARIAM : 



stay in Abyssinia to have adopted the same unkind 

and inhospitable manners which the greater part of 

the Abyssinians observe toward an unfortunate tra- 

veller. 



From Chelicut we took our direction to Adigrate. 

Our road was pretty plain. Sometimes we had to 

ascend a slight hill. But although we had now a 

better road compared with that in Lasta and Wag, yet 

we were considerably inconvenienced from not having 

plenty of water^ which we had found in abundance in 

those countries. Besides this, the heat of the valleys 

of Tigre was an addition to those inconveniences, with 

which our journey through that country had abounded, 

from the inhospitable reception of the natives, and 

from the rumours of war and dissoluteness of the 

soldiers. 



The approach of the evening reminded us of our un- 

pleasant business of begging the people for a night^s 

lodging. For this purpose we halted in a village called 

Arena Mariam, at some distance from the wayside. 

Having waited for some time on a place where most of 

the villagers could see us and guess our demands, we 

were invited by a man who was bleeding a sick bullock 

before his house. He sent us to a wretched cottage 

close to his house. This cottage, which served as a 

stable for his cattle at night, was surrounded by a stone 

wall, and only a part of the roof was slightly covered 

with grass. As the proprietor had invited us of his 

own accord, his duty was to treat us with some atten- 







UNKINDNESS OF THE VILLAGERS. 505 



tion ; but we had oiu'selves to look out for our supplies 

for the night. ]Iy servants went out begging, and re- 

turned with some floiu', which we begged the wife of 

our host to make into bread ; but she positively refused 

to do it, except she had a share of the floui-, which was 

scarcely sufficient to provide half a ration for each of 

our party. The other materials, wood and water, we 

of course had to fetch oursehes. After a long dispute 

she gave us the vessels in order that we might prepare 

the bread. On giving us the vessels, she said, " I am 

giving them for my soul's sake." 



We had rain at night ; but fortunately not much, as 

our stable would not take off the water. I felt great 

consolation in thinking of the approaching termination 

of our journey, and I troubled myself little about the 

increase or decrease of difficulties. 



Jpril 24, 1842 — The unkind treatment of our host 

hurried our departure from Arena Mariam. Probably on 

our an-ival he had expected that I could cure his bullock 

with charms, and with this expectation perhaps invited 

us to pass the night with him ; but as soon as he found 

himself disappointed, he took no further notice of us. 



The road to-day and the nature of the country was 

almost the same as we observed yesterday, namely, 

plains, with slight hills. The want of water was again 

very perceptible, and we seldom saw a village or hamlet. 

The soil was stony, and not particularly lit for cultiva- 

tion. We found no water till we reached the river 

Haikamcsal, which runs to the Tacazze. Before we 



z 







506 liNHOSPlTALITY OF THE TIGRIANS. 



crossed this river, we met a man, who hearing of our 

distress for want of food, gave us a little basso. This 

is the flour of barley, which is first roasted on the fire 

in a vessel of clay, and then ground. When mixed up 

with water, it is no bad food; and it is quickly prepared 

when you are on a journey. We accepted this present 

from the man with cordial thanks, as our scanty repast 

of yesterday evening had left us nothing for this day, 

and the villages were far ofi" from the wayside ; so that 

we should have tasted nothing at all to-day, if Provi- 

dence had not inclined this man to provide us with as 

much food as was requisite for our starving bodies. 



Having refreshed ourselves with the water of Haika- 

mesal and with the basso, we continued our march, in 

the cheerful confidence that He who feeds the birds, 

would also feed us in the evening, the approach of 

which always caused painful feelings in our minds, 

since we had experienced the inhospitality of the 

Tigrians. Had we possessed some jn'operty, we should 

not have been at a loss; for if the Tigrians see property, 

they will seldom be inhospitable. Such was the case 

with those travellers who overvalued Abyssinian hos- 

pitality. But let these persons travel without money, 

or without articles passing for money, and you will find 

that they will give another, but more correct idea and 

description of Abyssinian hospitality. 



About midday we were met by a man, who informed 

us, with tears in his eyes, that he had been deprived by 

soldiers on the road of his provisions, his sword^ and 







^RRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF MABERKA. 507 



his cloth. "Ye were sorry that we could uot help him. 

At the same time our sorrow and apprehensions of 

perhaps sharing the same fate in the course of the day, 

caused us to look with anxiety and timidity after those 

places which we thought dangerous, and where we might 

fall in with a rowing party of robbers. But our hea- 

venly Father, who well knew that our sufferings had 

already been considerable, graciously preserved and 

protected us, and brought us to a Adllage called Ma- 

berka, where, although a stable full of fleas was given 

as our lodging, and a sour look, and other unkind 

treatment wounded our hearts, yet we were content 

with a few horns of beer and some paste called tello, 

being confident that we were daily advancing nearer to 

the sea coast. 



Tello is prepared from the flour of barley. The 

barley is first boiled in a little hot water, and then 

roasted in a vessel of clay. It is then ground, and the 

flour is mixed up with water, or oil, or the Abyssinian 

pepper-soup. It is indeed a very miserable and dis- 

gusting dish ; but necessity had taught us to despise 

nothing. 



April 25, 1842 — This morning at a very early hour wc 

left Maberka, and halted a few hours afterward in the 

WUagc of Atzbie, where I leanied that a European had 

been there a few days ago. Before entering the village, 

I observed an elevated stone, about fifteen or eighteen 

feet in height, which appeared from a distance to be a 

broken obelisk. It therefore attracted my curiosity, 

z 2 







508 OBELISK AT ATZBIE. 



and iuduced me to go near. I found pieces of it 

scattered over the gi'oimd ; but I could not observe any 

inscription or hieroglj^Dhic figui'es. On asking a villager 

about the meaning of this stone, which was evidently 

erected for some purpose, I was told, that there was a 

celebrated convent in the village consecrated to the 

Holy Trinity ; and that the stone had been placed 

there, in order that a murderer who should take refuge 

to the convent and once reach the stone, should not be 

persecuted by his avenger. I then asked the man 

whether he had seen the obelisks at Axum. He re- 

plied in the affirmative, and said that they were erected 

by people who wanted to go to heaven and fight a battle 

with God Almighty. Such are the strange opinions of 

the natives concerning these astonishing remnants of 

ancient architecture. 



Having left Atzbie, the attack of fever, which had 

commenced this morning, increased. It was occasioned 

most likely in consequence of my sleeping last night 

outside the house on the wet ground in the cold-, and 

without sufficient bedding. The fleas had tormented 

me so much, that I was compelled to risk sleeping out- 

side the house. Happily, we were met by the same 

man who had yesterday given us some basso. As his 

village was close to the wayside, he observed us after 

we had passed by the village, and ran after us, and 

called us to his house. This invitation was certainly 

most providentially, not only because we had taken a 

wrong route toward the Shoho countiy, but still more 







VILLAGE OF BORRE. 509 



as our halting in his house rehevecl me from fever. I 

had first hot water prepared for a foot bath^ and then 

took a httle cofi"ee and went to sleep. On getting up 

I felt considerably better. We then ate and di'ank 

whatever our kind host placed before us ; and having 

refreshed om-selves, we resumed our march. IMay God 

in His mercy give the man his reward in heavenly and 

eternal goods and blessings for the kind assistance which 

he gave me when help was needed ! The meeting with 

this man yesterday and this morning, when we were in 

great distress, was indeed one of my most remarkable 

experiences on the whole journey, and clearly showed 

me the Divine interposition. 



I was told by my host that we were only a distance 

of five days journey to the village of Borre on the 

coast of the Red Sea ; but that the road was extremely 

dangerous, and that nobody would guide us there for 

fear of being murdered by the Danakil. Last year 

some Christian merchants endeavoiu'cd to open that 

route ; but they were all killed by the Danakil. How- 

ever, the Danakil bring merchandise from Borre to 

Tigre; but they will not allow other people to go down. 

As Borre is not far from Mocha, I should have liked 

to have gone this road ; but who would guide me, how 

could I afibrd the means for the guide, and where had 

I other means of defence ? Travellers, however, well 

provided and armed might succeed in opening a road, 

which would be of the greatest importance for the in- 

tercourse with Tigre. 







510 VILLAGE OF MASAOT. 



The white appearance of the mountains of this dis- 

trict struck me much, having nowhere observed it be- 

foi'e. Our road was generally plaiu^ and I should think 

camels might be able to go from Atzbie to Antalo. 



In the evening we halted in the village of Masaot. 

As the villagers would not receive us, we went to the 

Chm'ch of St. Michael, the priests of which proved to 

be very light-minded, and frivolous in their conversa- 

tion and manners. 



April 26, 1842 — As there was a priest in Masaot, who 

promised to leave the place in a few days on a journey 

to Shoa, I availed myself of this opportunity to write a 

few lines to Capt. Harris, Her Majesty's Representative 

in Shoa, to inform him of my safe arrival in Tigre. The 

priest promised to take charge of my letter. 



We intended to take our direction toward Senafe to 

the Shoho country ; but we were advised not to do so 

in the present circumstances of the unsettled state of 

things in Tigre. We therefore marched toward Adi- 

grate. At nine o'clock we reached the market Gooila, 

and halted at midday in the village of Agoddi. Here 

we went into a house to beg for some food, as we were 

exceedingly hungry. Tello, mixed up with oil and red 

pepper, was again offered to us ; but it had a better 

taste than formerly. The man who received us into 

his house, bitterly complained of Oubea's tyranny last 

year against the district, when he plundered and burnt 

their houses. 



To our right we saw the high mountain Haramat, 







MOUNT ITARAMAT. 511 



where Cassai made his defence before he was imprisoned 

by an artifice of Oubea, who swore eight times before 

ninety priests that he would do no harm to Cassai, if 

he would surrender himself and his stronghold. Cassai 

did so ; but was immediately put in chains ; and the 

priests, who reminded Oubca of his solemn oaths, were 

also imprisoned. 



In the evening we met the Governor of a district 

near Adigrate. We ventured to remind him that wc 

were afflicted strangers, and appealed to his kindness ; 

but on hearing that I was an Englishman, he avoided 

having anything to do with me, as he liked the French. 

He knew well the difference of both, and was acquainted 

with the Europeans of Adowah. He said, " Go to any 

church youlike.^^ We walked off, and went to a church; 

but there was no priest. We therefore asked after the 

Superior, who, understanding that we wanted to rest 

with him, instantly left the house, pretending to have 

some business without. His wife bid vis go to another 

house, as she had no room for our accommodation, her 

house being full of cattle. On her husband returning 

and finding us still sitting before his door, he said, " I 

have told you once that I cannot quarter you this night, 

as I have plenty of cattle in my house : go away in- 

stantly." " Well then," I said, " you are a priest as 

well as I am. You know that the Word of God orders 

Christians, and particularly priests, to be kind toward 

strangers, especially toward the afflicted. If you will 

not receive me, I will go this moment ; but you must 







512 ARRIVAL AT ADIGRATE. 



know that God will judge between me and you if you 

like your cattle more than your distressed fellow-crea- 

tm-e.^' We then went off. 



As the man who had provided us in the afternoon 

with telloj had also given us a little flour for use on 

the road, we went to another house in order to make 

some bread. But the woman whom we begged to pre- 

pare the bread made only three small cakes, and threw 

the remainder of the meal into our bag, refusing to 

make any more. In the mean time the priest sent 

word that we might rest in his house. We accepted 

his invitation, but not till he had called us twice, in 

order to make him feel om- dissatisfaction at his behavi- 

our. Probably he was frightened at what I said to him 

on leaving his house. I did not, however, speak in 

anger, but in a spirit of sorrow at man^s mckedness 

and worldly miudedness. 



The priest introduced us to a stable, in which were 

about 100 head of oxen and cows, besides a great num- 

ber of sheep. We had to look out for a place, lest the 

cows should kick or trample us under their feet in the 

course of the night. The priest did not give us a 

morsel of bread, and we could scarcely obtain from 

him a little water to quench our excessive thirst, as the 

water was brought from a distance. 



April 27, 1842 — We departed early from the nllage 

of Mashagheria- jMariam, where we had rested last night. 

About nine o^ clock we arrived in Adigrate. I went to 

the Church of St. Chirkos, which, I was told, had been 







VISIT THE CHURCfl OF ST. CHIRKOS. 513 



built by iIr. Eicbinger, tbe German carpenter who was 

mth Mr, Gobat in Tigre. The form of tbe interior 

does not differ from other chiu'ches, though there is 

more regularity observed, and is richly embellished with 

paintings and pictui*es, representing lions, elephants, 

hysenas, &c. It is a square building ; but in other re- 

spects it is like tbe rest of the Abyssinian Cburcbes. 

The priests recollected Mr. Eichinger, as well as Mr. 

Gobat. One of them gave me some flour, and his wife 

also baked a few cakes for our use on the road. I 

could not help thinking in my mind that probably this 

priest had experienced much kindness from Mr. Gobat, 

which he was now desirous of returning to me. 



Adigrate is situated in a large plain, suiTOunded by 

mountains. Tbe village is not veiy large, and at pre- 

sent almost the whole is in ruins. It was built by Sa- 

bagadis, if I am not mistaken. The present Governor 

is Ayto Beraki, who however was not at home, having 

set out with Balgadaraia on the expedition above men- 

tioned. 



Before wc entered the village we crossed a small 

rivulet, which supplies the villagers with water. We 

did not stop long; but continued our march. On the 

left we saw a large village, which they called Kcrsaber, 

being much larger than Adigi*ate. 



Our road this afternoon was not so plain as it had 

been for several days. Near the village of Maniberot 

we received some beer and basso from a man, whom the 

narrative of our joui'ncy had aflfected. He was ready 



Z 5 







514 ARRIVAL AT BEHAT. 



to sell some grain ; but what could we give iu return ? 

My head-servant, Atkoo, agreed to sell his belt, saying, 

it was better to do so than to starve. We then bought 

some barley and hogs' beans. Afterward we went to 

the Church of Mamberot ; but as there was no priest, 

we could not pass the night in the church. We then 

endeavoured to beg for a lodging in the village ; but all 

our petitions were in vain, till a man offered a stable, 

which was sufficient to shelter us against the coldness 

of the night and the wild beasts. Our situation daily 

became worse with the increase of the inhospitality of 

the Tigrians. We had travelled through a very hilly 

country, which was not much cultivated, probably for 

want of water. 



April 28, 1842— We left Mamberot with sunrise. Our 

direction was north-east. We marched through a very 

rocky territory, and but little cultivated and peopled. 

Here and there we saw a hamlet on the wayside. In 

the village of Dagadi we got some bread and beer. 

From thence our direction was east. We arrived at 

Behat about three o'clock p. m. We intended to stay 

here till the next day, in order to inquire after our road, 

and to collect some provisions for our journey through 

the Shoho country ; but when we applied to the prin- 

cipal priest, whom we met on our way, we got the rude 

answer — " There is the road ; do not stop here : rest 

somewhere else. We have no room for you." This 

roughness made us so sad, that we resolved to use our 

utmost endeavours to leave Tigre as quick as possible. 







CHARACTER OP THE PEOPLE OP SENAPE. 515 



Behat is a large village, situated in a plain. Before we 

entered this plan, we had a very difficult and steep des- 

cent. Having passed the village, Ave had to ascend 

again and to march toward Teltal, a part of the Shoho 

country. Having- reached the summit of the moun- 

tain, which we had been ascending since we left Behat, 

we came to another extensive plain, which was much 

cultivated and peopled, being surrounded by villages. 

This plain is the eastern boundary of Tigre, beyond 

which plain in the east there are no more Christians. 



On our road we had heard from a merchant that the 

people of Senafe were very bad and fanatic Mahomedans ; 

and that we could not travel close to the Shoho country 

without a guide or some other kind of protection. He 

therefore advised us to go to one of the numerous vil- 

lages around, and to wait for the market-people, who, 

coming from a market in the neighbourhood, would 

pass Senafe to-morrow ; and with them we should go 

to Tekunda, where the Governor, Ayto Habta IMichael, 

would send iis to Massowah. This intelligence was 

most providential, and indeed saved our lives, because, 

had we not known this, we should have continued our 

march, and should cither have been entirely stript by 

the people of Senafe, or killed by the Shohos, as we 

did not know the road, and should have been led to the 

Shoho villages, which we should have taken for villages 

of Tigre. 



Having obtained this important information, wc 

went to the Church of St. George, in the illagc of She- 







516 CONVERSATION ON FASTING WITH 



masana. The Alaca of this Church is a blind priest. 

He showed much intelligeuce in reasoning. He knew 

of the English and French. He also knew Mr. Isen- 

berg. He said^ that the English did not fast ; to 

which I replied, that as Christ had neither ordered 

nor forbidden fasting, the English did not commit sin 

if they omitted fasting, as nobody would be justified 

before God by means of fasting ; that we did not how- 

ever prevent any one from fasting, if he wished to do 

so of his own accord ; yea, it might be useful, if con- 

nected with prayer and meditation ; but that it would 

be sinful as soon as we had the least idea or intention 

of being saved by fasting. The Alaca then said, that 

fasting had been ordered by the 318 fathers assembled 

at Nice. I replied, " Supposing this to be true, we 

are not obliged to obseiTC their regulations, as theirs 

is not the Word of God, which never recommends fast- 

ing as an indolable commandment.'^ 



During the conversation, the man showed neither 

passion nor anger. When it was terminated, the 

priests took their last regular and copious supper, it 

being the evening of Maundy-Thursday, when the 

Abyssinians, particularly the priests, are obliged to 

abstain entirely from food till Easter morning. We 

also received a share of their meal. The Alaca then 

ordered us to go to the village of jMeshaikh, where a 

friend of his had promised to give us a lodging for the 

night, and so send us off with the market people to 

Tekunda, distant a few hours' journey from St. George's. 







AN ALACA OF THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE. 517 



The Alaca begged me for a few copies of the iEthi- 

opic New Testament and Psalter, which I promised 

to send him ; but I do not know how these can be 

sent there, as the place is out of the way from 

Adowah. However, I will endeavour to fulfil my 

promise. 



People who go through Senafe, always go in gi-eat 

numbers, and therefore wait for the others. Senafe is 

subjected to the ruler of Tigre. He cannot however 

keep them in strict dependence, as they take refuge 

with their countrjonen the Shohos, as soon as the 

Tigrian army advances against them. 



April 29, 1842 — At daybreak this morning we set 

out from jNIeshaikh, the market people being desirous 

of departing before the heat would be too powerful. 

They came from the market of the ^^llage of Tchegnara^ 

which was held yesterday. I was most fortunate in 

hanng joined this party, as the Governor of Senafe, 

a very ferocious looking Shoho, stood in the way, and 

declared that he would not allow the Eg^-ptian to pass 

before he had paid him a dollar. I said, that I had no 

money, having been deprived of all my property by 

Adara Bille in the "Wollo country. But he would not 

believe me, and said, "The Egyptians have always 

money." The quarrel ran high, as the leader of the 

party of the market people spoke in my favour. The 

Shoho then said, that the market people should go 

their wav, and he would settle the matter alone with 

us ; but they refused to depart without me and my 







518 DISPUTE WITH THE 



party, well knowing the Shobos would kill us and take 

off our clothes instead of the money. The quarrel was 

renewed ; but the Shoho would not consent to my 

departure. It was decided by the leader to send a 

messenger to the Governor at Meshaikh ; but I was 

against this measiu-e, as it would have kept us too 

long on the spot, and I would not have the people 

wait on my account. I offered a piece of cloth which 

I had worn around my head to protect it against the 

powerful heat of the sun. I threw this peice of cloth 

at the Shoho's feet, and said, " This is all that I can 

give you. If you will not accept this, I will go back 

and take another road which does not lead me through 

your country." The leader of the caffila encoui'aged 

him to be content with the piece of cloth, which was 

worth about five pieces of salt ; but he still refused, till 

a general tumult was raised on account of the caffila 

having been detained so long. They then allowed us 

to depart. 



This occurrence reminded me of my having again 

met that set of people, which are beyond all doubt the 

worst on earth. I remembered the endless quarrels 

which the Shohos had given me four years ago, when 

I travelled through their country to Adowah. At that 

time I had some valuable goods, and could not expect 

that they would not allow me to pass without a con- 

siderable charge ; but on this occasion, when I possess- 

ed nothing at all, I thought that they would have had 

compassion on me. But I was completely disappointed 







GOVERNOR OF SEXAFE. 519 



in this expectation. These people have entirely thrown 

away all human feelings, and appear to find the great- 

est pleasiu'e in tortui'ing their fellow-crcatiu-es. In 

one wordj if you see a Shoho, you must think you 

have before you, as it were, the very devil on earth. It 

is useless to give a mild opinion of this people, as even 

the strongest expression will appear to be too mild in 

the eyes of those who have dwelt with the Shohos and 

Danakil by frequent experience. 



Having settled the business with the Shoho of Senafc, 

we proceeded on oiu* road with the caffila through a 

stony and woody wilderness, being continually appre- 

hensive of a body of Shohos attacking us from the 

east of our route. This woody wilderness, which was 

full of juniper- trees, is exactly the place for a gang of 

robbers^ as they could break forth on all sides from 

the wood and catch you up in the narrow rocky road. 

About nine o'clock we found a well of good water. 

Here we halted till the whole party had assembled, 

and then the caffila separated, each individual taking 

the direction to his own village. Some took the du-ec- 

tion to Halai, in the north ; while we proceeded with 

some people to Tckunda, which is at present the usual 

starting place from Tigre to Arkceko. I understood 

that an arrangement had lately been made between 

the new Naib of Arkeeko, whose name is Hassan, 

and Ayto Habta jNIichael, the Governor of Tckunda, 

that tlie Halai route should be given up, and that of 

Tckunda substituted. It appears that the Governor of 







520 .ARRIVAL AT TEKUNDA. 



Halai had a quarrel ^^th the Naib, who opened another^ 

and I must add, a much better route to Tigre. 



We amved at Tekunda after ten o'clock. The 

Governor, Habta Michael, seeing om* very poor ap- 

pearance, took veiy little notice of us at first ; as did 

also his brother, "N^'olda Gaben. He asked, whether I 

was an Englishman, and whether I knew Samuel Go- 

bat and Mr. Shimper. Upon my answering in the 

affirmative, he became a little more civil, and gave us 

a little bread and some hogs' beans. Mien he heard 

that Adara Bille, the Chieftain of Lagga Ghora, had 

robbed me, he said, " There are several Mahomedan 

pilgrims Avith me, subjects of that Chieftain ; will you 

not take revenge and take of their clothes ? " 1 

replied, " No, I cannot do this, and by no means on 

this day, being Good Friday, because Christ died for 

all mankind, the holy for the unholy, and for His 

enemies, to bear their guilt, to reconcile them to His 

Father, and to give the spirit of love and peace in the 

Holy Ghost. Seeing therefore His example of love and 

resignation before me, I cannot deprive these pilgiims 

of their property, although you give me the permission 

to do so. Besides, they are strangers, and have no 

share in their master's robbery and wickedness," 



I then became acquainted with the pilgrims, Avho 

were really subjects of Adara Bille. They had arrived 

a few days ago from Mecca ; but were obliged to stay 

here, one of their party being sick. 1 told them, that 

they might inform Adara Bille of my having advanced 







KINDLY RECEIVED BY THE GOVERNOR. 521 



thus far to the coast — that his name had become offen- 

sive so far, and would become still more so — and that 

God would judge him, and not myself, as my religion 

ordered me to pray for those who do me harm, and to 

bless those who hurt me. The pilgrims felt them- 

selves very mieasy ; but I told them that they need 

not be afraid of me, as I would do them no harm. At 

the same time I begged the Governor not to be angry 

with them on my account. 



Ajto Habta Michael then made us a little comfort- 

able, by giving us a large new room and a quantity of 

provisions. I was very glad indeed at having at 

length found a resting place, where I could devote 

these holy days exclusively to religious purposes ; bare 

necessity having compelled me since I had left Shoa 

to travel on Sundays, at least to move from one village 

to another, as people were so inhospitable as not to 

allow me to stay in their houses more than one night. 



April 30, 1842 — The Governor promised this morn- 

ing that he would send to the next Shoho village for a 

guide to take us to Arkeeko, as the Shohos would kill 

us if we travelled through their country without having 

a guide from them ; but that this guide would require 

a dollar for his trip to Dohono or Ilarkceko— not 

Arkeeko, as we always pronounce according to the 

maps. I said, that I had no money; but that I 

should be able to i)rocure some at Massowah. He 

said, " It does not signify : the Shoho must wait, and 

1 will wait also, till you have got money." It is cus- 







523 DEPARTURE FROM TEKUNDA. 



tomary for the Shoho guide to receive half a dollar, 

and the other half is given to the Governor ; but I 

believe the Abyssinians pay only half a dollar to the 

guide, and nothing to the Governor. Hovrever, I would 

not bargain about this, as the Governor showed me 

much kindness in my distress. 



May 1, 1843 — This morning the Governor settled the 

matter with the Shoho guide and mshed us to depart ; 

but the Shoho wanted his money to be paid before 

moving from Tekunda. To this I would not consent. 

Then the Shoho requested me to make oath that I 

would not leave him in the lurch at Dohono. I replied, 

that whether I made oath or not, it would be the same 

thing, as it would depend on the man who would lend 

me money at Arkeeko or Massowah ; that if any one 

would lend me money, I would pay him without taking 

an oath ; and that if no one would lend me money, the 

oath would be useless, as I could not pay him. It 

would therefore be better for him not to press this 

matter, but to go with me to Dohono, believing on my 

word. 



At length the Shoho gave in, and we immediately 

left Tekunda. After walking about a mile we reached 

a well, which is the spring of a river running to the 

Samhar. The people of Tekunda must go thus far to 

fetch their water. Tekunda is a small hamlet, situated 

on a hill ; but it is now important on account of the 

communication with the sea, and I believe I am the 

first European who went this new route, which how- 







BURIAL GROUNDS. 523 



ever falls into the old road after you have travelled 

about ten miles. I was delighted with having seen the 

beginning of a river, which runs from this point as 

far as the sea some distance from Arkeeko ; but the 

river is diy dimng the hot season, and the traveller 

finds water only at certain places. As far as I could 

ascertain without a compass, it runs first from south to 

north, then to north-east-east. We had a very good and 

plain road through a woody wilderness. It is much 

superior to the road of Halai, which leads over the 

difiicult mount of Shumfeito. On the Tekunda road 

you descend by degrees, and the road might be trodden 

even by camels, if it could be improved a little by 

removing some rocks in the way. 



"We saw several bm-ial grounds on our road. On 

passing by, our guide always recited certain prayers, 

the nature of which I could not make out, as he did 

not understand either Amharic or Arabic. The appear- 

ance of graves in the wilderness also produced a deep 

impression on my oati mind. 



About eleven o^clock we arrived at that part of the 

Tekunda road which joins that of Halaia. I imme- 

diately knew this route, and we afterward came to a 

few high trees, where the camels are usually discharged 

and sent back to the coast. I recollected the spot 

well, where, four years ago, I had three days quarrel 

with the Shohos for the hiring of bullocks to carry my 

luggage up the mount Shumfeito. At that time they 

wanted two dollars for each bullock ; whereas the 







524 DISPUTE WITH THE SHOHOS. 



customary charge was only half a dollar. I saw here, 

at a distance of about sixty yards under some trees, a 

large wild goat looking after us fearlessly. It would have 

made us a good and delicious dinner had not Adara 

Bille deprived us of our fire-arms. I requested our 

guide to halt under these trees for the purpose of par- 

taking of the hogs' beans which the Governor of Tekunda 

had given me. The remembrance of what had occurred 

to me four years ago was quite fresh, and at the same 

time I felt thankful to the Father of all mercies that I 

was not then on my coming from Europe exposed to 

the hardships of my present jom-ney, as at that time I 

should not have been able to have borne them. While 

I was engaged in these contemplations, three Shohos 

approached and asked me, in their usual boisterous and 

noisy manner, for a dollar, because they were great and 

influential men among the Shohos. I pointed at a 

stone on the ground, saying, that was all I could give 

them. After a long dispute, no more mention was made 

of the dollar ; but now they wanted some coffee, which 

was also refused. Finally, they allowed us to depart. 

We rested at night not far from Hamhammo. We 

slept under some large trees near the water. A 

beautifully cool air refreshed us, and we were not in 

the least molested, as nobody was with us except the 

guide. The trunk of a large tree was set on fire, which 

burnt the whole night, and served to frighten the wild 

beasts, which abound in this large torrent of the 

Samhar. 







LEAVE FOR ARKEEKO. 525 



Before going to bed we took om* simple supper, con- 

sisting of hogs' beans and tello, which we ate with 

as much pleasure and contentment as the most splendid 

supper in the world. I remembered many of my 

friends in Europe, and I wished them to participate for 

a moment in the happiness I felt in this simple supper. 

Still more I wished them to join with me in bowing 

our knees before om* gracious and Almighty Lord, 

who had shown me so many mercies through the inte- 

rior of Abyssinia. 



May 2, 1842 — With ardent desire we saluted the ap- 

proach of this day, which should bring us almost to the 

end of om* miserable journey. We arose about four 

o'clock ; and although my legs would scarcely move, in 

consequence of the exertions of yesterday over the stony 

bed of the torrent, through which the road led us, yet 

the anticipation of my journey's end gave me, I 

might say, more than human strength. Wc travelled 

almost the whole day, although the heat in the narrow 

valley was very excessive. About two o'clock p.m. 

we arrived at a place, where the guide told us that we 

were to take water, as at this season no water would be 

found till we reached Arkccko. We then filled a large 

water-bag, which the Governor of Tekunda had given 

us for the road, the guide being ordered to take it back 

to Tekunda. We travelled on till after night, when 

my legs were so tired and sleep overtook me, that I 

frequently fell down on the ground. Thirst and hun- 

ger also tormented me to the utmost. The more I 







526 ALARMED BY A PARTY OF SIIOIIOS. 



drank, the more I got thirsty ; and the few hogs^ beans 

which my people still carried with them, did not satisfy 

my appetite. After night-fall I had requested from the 

guide to let us have a rest any where in the wilderness, 

as it was almost impossible for me to move any fm'ther; 

but he declared that he could not stop on account of 

the Bedouins and the wild beasts, and that we should 

go further on till he would point out a proper spot. I 

said, " All this does not signify, let us only rest a few 

hours." However, I continued marching for some 

time ; but as the guide would still not listen to me, I 

laid do^Ti on the ground, and said, " You may now do 

as you like : you may stop or go ; for my part I will not 

move from here till I have rested a few hours." He 

then gave in, and we rested on the sand only a few 

yards from the wayside. In this situation we were most 

fortunate. I did not think that the Bedouins strolled 

over the wdlderness at such an early hour — about 

two o'clock in the morning. But a pai'ty of Shohos 

passed the very road where we were sleeping. Proba- 

bly they were of Waia, a Shoho place a few miles dis- 

tant from us. Happily they did not observe us, pro- 

bably taking our figures for stones. Besides, they ^re 

talking so loud, and making so much noise, that they 

did not hear the snoring of my people. Only the 

guide and myself awoke from their noisy conversation ; 

but we kept silence as much as possible, till they had 

passed altogether. I was in a very melancholy and 

apprehensive situation at this moment, as I did not 







ARRIVE AT ARKEEKO. 527 



know whether they were friends or enemies. I could 

not however expect that a Shoho, who is an enemy in 

the day, would be a friend at night. As soon as they 

had passed by without observing us, we resolved to 

depart. The moon just rose, being in her wane. The 

idea that we were so close to the coast, and that any 

unfortunate occurrence should happen, gave us corn-age 

and strength to reach the coast as quickly as possible. 

Besides, hunger, thii'st, and weariness, drove us on. 

The immense plain of Arkeeko annoyed us very much. 

^Ve saw the place from a distance ; but although we 

exerted ourselves to the utmost, it still appeared distant 

and imattainable. 



About nine o'clock a.m. we reached the wells of 

water close to Arkeeko. We first paid a hearty wel- 

come to this water, as om*^s was all gone. We then 

moved, almost half lamed, toward the house of the 

Governor, whom we happened to meet on the road. 

He ordered his servants to give us a room and to make 

us comfortable. This was done, and I laid down on a 

small bedstead with the indescribable feelings of joy, 

thanksgivings, and adoration to my heavenly Father, 

who had enabled me to overcome so many hardships — 

who had gi-aciously watched and protected my hfe in 

so many dangerous and critical moments — who had 

fed me in the wilderness and deserts, and preserved me 

from starvation — who had su])portcd me in so many 

temjitations of body and mind — who had given me so 

many invisible and spiritual consolations — and who 







528 ARRIVAL AT 



had upheld me with His strength in my weakness and 

helplessness. The glory be to Him for ever and ever ! 



May 3, 1842 — As already mentioned, we arrived this 

morning at Arkeeko, and were apparently well received 

by the Naib Hassan. I first inquu-ed whether there was 

an English vessel bound for Aden in the port of Mas- 

sowah. They said, that an English schooner had left 

the harbour three days ago. She had brought over 

Mr. Coffin from Aden. As I understood that Mr. 

Coffin was at Arkeeko, I went immediately to him, 

although I could scarcely move my legs. He gave me 

some interesting news from Europe and Egypt. But 

what affected me most was the intelligence, that the 

Brethren Muller and Muhleisen, on whose account I 

had partly made the journey, had returned to Egypt ; 

and that my dear brother, the Rev. W. Kruse, at Cairo, 

had been deprived by death of his amiable, intelligent, 

and pious wife. 



Being quite moneyless, I hinted to the Governor of 

Arkeeko that I wanted to borrow some money. But 

the Naib avoided all money business, either because he 

is no friend to the English, as they have no Consul in 

Massowah, while other nations have; or because he 

wanted to take a large profit, by making me wait for a 

few days, when cu-cumstances would have compelled 

me to draw money at the risk of a great loss. 



May 4 — This morning I left Arkeeko for Massowah. 

I went by land ; but my feet were so bad that I pre- 

ferred taking off my shoes and stockings, and going bare- 







MASSOWAII. 529 



footed like an Abyssinian. Haing arrived at Mas- 

sowali, I took up my abode at Mr. Coffin's ; but I left 

at tbe invitation of M. Do Goutin, the French Consul, 

whose hospitality, kindness, and assistance deserves 

my most grateful acknowledgement before the Com- 

mittee. As soon as he heard of my arrival, he came 

to my house and kindly offered his services. Without 

having seen me before, without knomng whether he 

could trust me or not, and without asking to which 

nation I belonged, he offered me as much money as I 

wanted for my journey to Aden. 







THE END. 







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