Repair tiny hole/scratch in copper pipe












6














I discovered a very tiny hole/scratch in a copper pipe in my basement this morning. It looks like the scratch was caused by a screw that was holding up some wood paneling. The hole is in the middle of a run (not at a joint) and drips only once every 5 or 10 seconds. The pipe carries water from the boiler, so ideally the less surgery the better to repair it.



enter image description here



Apologies for the not great image...hopefully you can see the small scratch on the left side along with the water pooling on the pipe in the middle.



I have a plumber coming out this afternoon but this seems like something I should be able to fix myself with a little solder or something else. Any recommendations?










share|improve this question






















  • Related: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/14360/…
    – UnhandledExcepSean
    yesterday






  • 1




    Make sure that is the actual area of the leak and the water wasn't running down the pipe from elsewhere. You can use a paper towel to easily detect water running along the pipe.
    – ratchet freak
    yesterday










  • Slap a flex tape on that
    – Ruslan
    yesterday










  • Is this pipe running horizontal or vertical? If vertical, it will probably dry and can be soldered. For horizontal runs where there is residual water that could impede the ability to solder, I’ve seen propress fittings used with good results.
    – kponz
    yesterday










  • I had a leak that looked like that; it turned out that the whole length had been thinned by internal corrosion. I suggest gently squeezing the pipe with pliers to evaluate.
    – blacksmith37
    yesterday
















6














I discovered a very tiny hole/scratch in a copper pipe in my basement this morning. It looks like the scratch was caused by a screw that was holding up some wood paneling. The hole is in the middle of a run (not at a joint) and drips only once every 5 or 10 seconds. The pipe carries water from the boiler, so ideally the less surgery the better to repair it.



enter image description here



Apologies for the not great image...hopefully you can see the small scratch on the left side along with the water pooling on the pipe in the middle.



I have a plumber coming out this afternoon but this seems like something I should be able to fix myself with a little solder or something else. Any recommendations?










share|improve this question






















  • Related: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/14360/…
    – UnhandledExcepSean
    yesterday






  • 1




    Make sure that is the actual area of the leak and the water wasn't running down the pipe from elsewhere. You can use a paper towel to easily detect water running along the pipe.
    – ratchet freak
    yesterday










  • Slap a flex tape on that
    – Ruslan
    yesterday










  • Is this pipe running horizontal or vertical? If vertical, it will probably dry and can be soldered. For horizontal runs where there is residual water that could impede the ability to solder, I’ve seen propress fittings used with good results.
    – kponz
    yesterday










  • I had a leak that looked like that; it turned out that the whole length had been thinned by internal corrosion. I suggest gently squeezing the pipe with pliers to evaluate.
    – blacksmith37
    yesterday














6












6








6


2





I discovered a very tiny hole/scratch in a copper pipe in my basement this morning. It looks like the scratch was caused by a screw that was holding up some wood paneling. The hole is in the middle of a run (not at a joint) and drips only once every 5 or 10 seconds. The pipe carries water from the boiler, so ideally the less surgery the better to repair it.



enter image description here



Apologies for the not great image...hopefully you can see the small scratch on the left side along with the water pooling on the pipe in the middle.



I have a plumber coming out this afternoon but this seems like something I should be able to fix myself with a little solder or something else. Any recommendations?










share|improve this question













I discovered a very tiny hole/scratch in a copper pipe in my basement this morning. It looks like the scratch was caused by a screw that was holding up some wood paneling. The hole is in the middle of a run (not at a joint) and drips only once every 5 or 10 seconds. The pipe carries water from the boiler, so ideally the less surgery the better to repair it.



enter image description here



Apologies for the not great image...hopefully you can see the small scratch on the left side along with the water pooling on the pipe in the middle.



I have a plumber coming out this afternoon but this seems like something I should be able to fix myself with a little solder or something else. Any recommendations?







plumbing leak pipe copper






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share|improve this question











share|improve this question




share|improve this question










asked yesterday









bfink

857




857












  • Related: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/14360/…
    – UnhandledExcepSean
    yesterday






  • 1




    Make sure that is the actual area of the leak and the water wasn't running down the pipe from elsewhere. You can use a paper towel to easily detect water running along the pipe.
    – ratchet freak
    yesterday










  • Slap a flex tape on that
    – Ruslan
    yesterday










  • Is this pipe running horizontal or vertical? If vertical, it will probably dry and can be soldered. For horizontal runs where there is residual water that could impede the ability to solder, I’ve seen propress fittings used with good results.
    – kponz
    yesterday










  • I had a leak that looked like that; it turned out that the whole length had been thinned by internal corrosion. I suggest gently squeezing the pipe with pliers to evaluate.
    – blacksmith37
    yesterday


















  • Related: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/14360/…
    – UnhandledExcepSean
    yesterday






  • 1




    Make sure that is the actual area of the leak and the water wasn't running down the pipe from elsewhere. You can use a paper towel to easily detect water running along the pipe.
    – ratchet freak
    yesterday










  • Slap a flex tape on that
    – Ruslan
    yesterday










  • Is this pipe running horizontal or vertical? If vertical, it will probably dry and can be soldered. For horizontal runs where there is residual water that could impede the ability to solder, I’ve seen propress fittings used with good results.
    – kponz
    yesterday










  • I had a leak that looked like that; it turned out that the whole length had been thinned by internal corrosion. I suggest gently squeezing the pipe with pliers to evaluate.
    – blacksmith37
    yesterday
















Related: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/14360/…
– UnhandledExcepSean
yesterday




Related: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/14360/…
– UnhandledExcepSean
yesterday




1




1




Make sure that is the actual area of the leak and the water wasn't running down the pipe from elsewhere. You can use a paper towel to easily detect water running along the pipe.
– ratchet freak
yesterday




Make sure that is the actual area of the leak and the water wasn't running down the pipe from elsewhere. You can use a paper towel to easily detect water running along the pipe.
– ratchet freak
yesterday












Slap a flex tape on that
– Ruslan
yesterday




Slap a flex tape on that
– Ruslan
yesterday












Is this pipe running horizontal or vertical? If vertical, it will probably dry and can be soldered. For horizontal runs where there is residual water that could impede the ability to solder, I’ve seen propress fittings used with good results.
– kponz
yesterday




Is this pipe running horizontal or vertical? If vertical, it will probably dry and can be soldered. For horizontal runs where there is residual water that could impede the ability to solder, I’ve seen propress fittings used with good results.
– kponz
yesterday












I had a leak that looked like that; it turned out that the whole length had been thinned by internal corrosion. I suggest gently squeezing the pipe with pliers to evaluate.
– blacksmith37
yesterday




I had a leak that looked like that; it turned out that the whole length had been thinned by internal corrosion. I suggest gently squeezing the pipe with pliers to evaluate.
– blacksmith37
yesterday










7 Answers
7






active

oldest

votes


















12














I have not seen patches hold up on copper. What I find best is to cut it at the hole and sweat a coupler on. It must be dry when you do the soldering or it will leak.






share|improve this answer



















  • 2




    Yeah, repairing pipe just isn't a reliable approach. Look for a coupler that allows you to slide it fully onto the pipe if you don't have enough movement available. If you do you could use a Sharkbite coupler to avoid soldering.
    – isherwood
    yesterday






  • 1




    If you use a good silver bearing and know how to solder well a coating on the pipe will hold till your great grand children own the house.
    – d.george
    yesterday










  • I am quite good at silver soldering I not only do I do water pipe but HVAC. Solder only even if properly done is not as reliable as a coupling especially since the hole was due to wearing a thin spot the coupling provides mechanical strength so although I could seal a leak like that getting the pipe dry would be almost impossible compared to cutting and installing a coupler.
    – Ed Beal
    yesterday










  • If you do decide to solder patch, you may as well go as far as cutting a coupling in half and solder on a plate. If you're accurate enough with a hacksaw the plate can actually go about 60-70% of the way around. Just cut two slits lengthwise instead of halving it vertically.
    – K H
    yesterday










  • What is a coupler? What kind of coupler? What does it mean to sweat it on? How does one solder onto copper? What equipment does that require? Should one cut out a section (two cuts)? How long should the section be? Must the cut be perfectly perpendicular? Can one do that with a hacksaw? How does one steer the two ends into/onto/over the coupler? Is this something a regular house owner can do? How the hell did this answer consisting of three short sentences get 12 upvotes? While it may be the correct approach, the answer gives almost no guidance at all on how to actually do anything.
    – Mads Skjern
    6 hours ago





















3














I've had some success with this stuff - it's basically a fiber tape soaked in something like gorilla glue. But I'd only consider it a temporary repair. the right way is to cut the pipe and solder in a coupler.



enter image description here






share|improve this answer





















  • I've used 'self-sticking tape' (sorry I don't know the right term) for minor plumbing repairs. If you stretch it as you wrap it, you can get a watertight seal. It won't leave anything on the pipe either as it bonds to itself, not the pipe.
    – JimmyJames
    yesterday












  • @JimmyJames That's self-amalgamating tape, and it's only suitable for temporary use until a proper repair can be made.
    – Andrew Morton
    14 hours ago



















2














You could lay a coating of solder on the pipe, preferably a silver bearing alloy, but you would have to drain that pipe and have "it bone dry". You could clean the copper, drop the boiler pressure to near zero so the drip stops and lay on a coat of fast dry epoxy. These are 2 ideas, hope this helps Also, Home DEpot sells a 1/2" copper compression X compression repair coupling in a 12 lingth length.






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  • I can't remember how many times I had tried, but it took until I had about 10y experience to be able to lay a worthwhile bead over a crack in a copper pipe. But it's not a giant split from freezing that you have to squish back together. Here, I'd give even a novice a 50/50 shot on success the first time, assuming they clean it right, flux it, and don't burn a hole in the pipe.
    – Mazura
    19 hours ago



















2














A common option in the UK (dunno if they are available in other countries) for fixing damaged copper pipes is a compression repair coupler. The coupling has compression fittings on both ends only one of which has a depth stop, so after cutting the pipe you can slide the fitting onto one pipe and then slide it back onto the other with minimal movement of the pipe ends.






share|improve this answer





















  • Compression couplers are available but much more expensive, however for a novice this may reduce the chance of a leak +
    – Ed Beal
    yesterday



















1














What I've done in the past is to saw a coupler in half lengthwise, use a file to remove the center ridge (unless you can find a "repair coupler" that lacks the ridge), thoroughly clean and flux the pipe and inside of the coupler, tie half of the coupler on with bare copper wire (after cleaning/fluxing it), then (after making sure the pipe is perfectly dry inside) sweat-solder the assembly. Of course, this requires a couple of inches clearance all around to allow soldering safely.



Anymore, I'd just buy a SharkBite coupling, cut the pipe at the defect, then install that coupling.






share|improve this answer





























    0














    If the pipe sizes in your country do telescoping, then the next size up in copper pipe will fit exactly over your pipe as a sleeve. I would cut a small section of sleeve, removing the scratched section, and solder the sleeve into place.






    share|improve this answer








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      0














      An option I haven't seen suggested, but one that I've seen several times and employed at least once myself, is to use a clamp to secure a rubber gasket. There are commercially made clamps
      enter image description here



      or you can cobble your own with a piece of inner tube and a hose clamp.



      I wouldn't recommend these for concealed use, but where the patch will be accessible I think they're fine, and probably code-accepted in at least some cases.






      share|improve this answer





















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        7 Answers
        7






        active

        oldest

        votes








        7 Answers
        7






        active

        oldest

        votes









        active

        oldest

        votes






        active

        oldest

        votes









        12














        I have not seen patches hold up on copper. What I find best is to cut it at the hole and sweat a coupler on. It must be dry when you do the soldering or it will leak.






        share|improve this answer



















        • 2




          Yeah, repairing pipe just isn't a reliable approach. Look for a coupler that allows you to slide it fully onto the pipe if you don't have enough movement available. If you do you could use a Sharkbite coupler to avoid soldering.
          – isherwood
          yesterday






        • 1




          If you use a good silver bearing and know how to solder well a coating on the pipe will hold till your great grand children own the house.
          – d.george
          yesterday










        • I am quite good at silver soldering I not only do I do water pipe but HVAC. Solder only even if properly done is not as reliable as a coupling especially since the hole was due to wearing a thin spot the coupling provides mechanical strength so although I could seal a leak like that getting the pipe dry would be almost impossible compared to cutting and installing a coupler.
          – Ed Beal
          yesterday










        • If you do decide to solder patch, you may as well go as far as cutting a coupling in half and solder on a plate. If you're accurate enough with a hacksaw the plate can actually go about 60-70% of the way around. Just cut two slits lengthwise instead of halving it vertically.
          – K H
          yesterday










        • What is a coupler? What kind of coupler? What does it mean to sweat it on? How does one solder onto copper? What equipment does that require? Should one cut out a section (two cuts)? How long should the section be? Must the cut be perfectly perpendicular? Can one do that with a hacksaw? How does one steer the two ends into/onto/over the coupler? Is this something a regular house owner can do? How the hell did this answer consisting of three short sentences get 12 upvotes? While it may be the correct approach, the answer gives almost no guidance at all on how to actually do anything.
          – Mads Skjern
          6 hours ago


















        12














        I have not seen patches hold up on copper. What I find best is to cut it at the hole and sweat a coupler on. It must be dry when you do the soldering or it will leak.






        share|improve this answer



















        • 2




          Yeah, repairing pipe just isn't a reliable approach. Look for a coupler that allows you to slide it fully onto the pipe if you don't have enough movement available. If you do you could use a Sharkbite coupler to avoid soldering.
          – isherwood
          yesterday






        • 1




          If you use a good silver bearing and know how to solder well a coating on the pipe will hold till your great grand children own the house.
          – d.george
          yesterday










        • I am quite good at silver soldering I not only do I do water pipe but HVAC. Solder only even if properly done is not as reliable as a coupling especially since the hole was due to wearing a thin spot the coupling provides mechanical strength so although I could seal a leak like that getting the pipe dry would be almost impossible compared to cutting and installing a coupler.
          – Ed Beal
          yesterday










        • If you do decide to solder patch, you may as well go as far as cutting a coupling in half and solder on a plate. If you're accurate enough with a hacksaw the plate can actually go about 60-70% of the way around. Just cut two slits lengthwise instead of halving it vertically.
          – K H
          yesterday










        • What is a coupler? What kind of coupler? What does it mean to sweat it on? How does one solder onto copper? What equipment does that require? Should one cut out a section (two cuts)? How long should the section be? Must the cut be perfectly perpendicular? Can one do that with a hacksaw? How does one steer the two ends into/onto/over the coupler? Is this something a regular house owner can do? How the hell did this answer consisting of three short sentences get 12 upvotes? While it may be the correct approach, the answer gives almost no guidance at all on how to actually do anything.
          – Mads Skjern
          6 hours ago
















        12












        12








        12






        I have not seen patches hold up on copper. What I find best is to cut it at the hole and sweat a coupler on. It must be dry when you do the soldering or it will leak.






        share|improve this answer














        I have not seen patches hold up on copper. What I find best is to cut it at the hole and sweat a coupler on. It must be dry when you do the soldering or it will leak.







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited yesterday









        isherwood

        45.1k453115




        45.1k453115










        answered yesterday









        Ed Beal

        31k12145




        31k12145








        • 2




          Yeah, repairing pipe just isn't a reliable approach. Look for a coupler that allows you to slide it fully onto the pipe if you don't have enough movement available. If you do you could use a Sharkbite coupler to avoid soldering.
          – isherwood
          yesterday






        • 1




          If you use a good silver bearing and know how to solder well a coating on the pipe will hold till your great grand children own the house.
          – d.george
          yesterday










        • I am quite good at silver soldering I not only do I do water pipe but HVAC. Solder only even if properly done is not as reliable as a coupling especially since the hole was due to wearing a thin spot the coupling provides mechanical strength so although I could seal a leak like that getting the pipe dry would be almost impossible compared to cutting and installing a coupler.
          – Ed Beal
          yesterday










        • If you do decide to solder patch, you may as well go as far as cutting a coupling in half and solder on a plate. If you're accurate enough with a hacksaw the plate can actually go about 60-70% of the way around. Just cut two slits lengthwise instead of halving it vertically.
          – K H
          yesterday










        • What is a coupler? What kind of coupler? What does it mean to sweat it on? How does one solder onto copper? What equipment does that require? Should one cut out a section (two cuts)? How long should the section be? Must the cut be perfectly perpendicular? Can one do that with a hacksaw? How does one steer the two ends into/onto/over the coupler? Is this something a regular house owner can do? How the hell did this answer consisting of three short sentences get 12 upvotes? While it may be the correct approach, the answer gives almost no guidance at all on how to actually do anything.
          – Mads Skjern
          6 hours ago
















        • 2




          Yeah, repairing pipe just isn't a reliable approach. Look for a coupler that allows you to slide it fully onto the pipe if you don't have enough movement available. If you do you could use a Sharkbite coupler to avoid soldering.
          – isherwood
          yesterday






        • 1




          If you use a good silver bearing and know how to solder well a coating on the pipe will hold till your great grand children own the house.
          – d.george
          yesterday










        • I am quite good at silver soldering I not only do I do water pipe but HVAC. Solder only even if properly done is not as reliable as a coupling especially since the hole was due to wearing a thin spot the coupling provides mechanical strength so although I could seal a leak like that getting the pipe dry would be almost impossible compared to cutting and installing a coupler.
          – Ed Beal
          yesterday










        • If you do decide to solder patch, you may as well go as far as cutting a coupling in half and solder on a plate. If you're accurate enough with a hacksaw the plate can actually go about 60-70% of the way around. Just cut two slits lengthwise instead of halving it vertically.
          – K H
          yesterday










        • What is a coupler? What kind of coupler? What does it mean to sweat it on? How does one solder onto copper? What equipment does that require? Should one cut out a section (two cuts)? How long should the section be? Must the cut be perfectly perpendicular? Can one do that with a hacksaw? How does one steer the two ends into/onto/over the coupler? Is this something a regular house owner can do? How the hell did this answer consisting of three short sentences get 12 upvotes? While it may be the correct approach, the answer gives almost no guidance at all on how to actually do anything.
          – Mads Skjern
          6 hours ago










        2




        2




        Yeah, repairing pipe just isn't a reliable approach. Look for a coupler that allows you to slide it fully onto the pipe if you don't have enough movement available. If you do you could use a Sharkbite coupler to avoid soldering.
        – isherwood
        yesterday




        Yeah, repairing pipe just isn't a reliable approach. Look for a coupler that allows you to slide it fully onto the pipe if you don't have enough movement available. If you do you could use a Sharkbite coupler to avoid soldering.
        – isherwood
        yesterday




        1




        1




        If you use a good silver bearing and know how to solder well a coating on the pipe will hold till your great grand children own the house.
        – d.george
        yesterday




        If you use a good silver bearing and know how to solder well a coating on the pipe will hold till your great grand children own the house.
        – d.george
        yesterday












        I am quite good at silver soldering I not only do I do water pipe but HVAC. Solder only even if properly done is not as reliable as a coupling especially since the hole was due to wearing a thin spot the coupling provides mechanical strength so although I could seal a leak like that getting the pipe dry would be almost impossible compared to cutting and installing a coupler.
        – Ed Beal
        yesterday




        I am quite good at silver soldering I not only do I do water pipe but HVAC. Solder only even if properly done is not as reliable as a coupling especially since the hole was due to wearing a thin spot the coupling provides mechanical strength so although I could seal a leak like that getting the pipe dry would be almost impossible compared to cutting and installing a coupler.
        – Ed Beal
        yesterday












        If you do decide to solder patch, you may as well go as far as cutting a coupling in half and solder on a plate. If you're accurate enough with a hacksaw the plate can actually go about 60-70% of the way around. Just cut two slits lengthwise instead of halving it vertically.
        – K H
        yesterday




        If you do decide to solder patch, you may as well go as far as cutting a coupling in half and solder on a plate. If you're accurate enough with a hacksaw the plate can actually go about 60-70% of the way around. Just cut two slits lengthwise instead of halving it vertically.
        – K H
        yesterday












        What is a coupler? What kind of coupler? What does it mean to sweat it on? How does one solder onto copper? What equipment does that require? Should one cut out a section (two cuts)? How long should the section be? Must the cut be perfectly perpendicular? Can one do that with a hacksaw? How does one steer the two ends into/onto/over the coupler? Is this something a regular house owner can do? How the hell did this answer consisting of three short sentences get 12 upvotes? While it may be the correct approach, the answer gives almost no guidance at all on how to actually do anything.
        – Mads Skjern
        6 hours ago






        What is a coupler? What kind of coupler? What does it mean to sweat it on? How does one solder onto copper? What equipment does that require? Should one cut out a section (two cuts)? How long should the section be? Must the cut be perfectly perpendicular? Can one do that with a hacksaw? How does one steer the two ends into/onto/over the coupler? Is this something a regular house owner can do? How the hell did this answer consisting of three short sentences get 12 upvotes? While it may be the correct approach, the answer gives almost no guidance at all on how to actually do anything.
        – Mads Skjern
        6 hours ago















        3














        I've had some success with this stuff - it's basically a fiber tape soaked in something like gorilla glue. But I'd only consider it a temporary repair. the right way is to cut the pipe and solder in a coupler.



        enter image description here






        share|improve this answer





















        • I've used 'self-sticking tape' (sorry I don't know the right term) for minor plumbing repairs. If you stretch it as you wrap it, you can get a watertight seal. It won't leave anything on the pipe either as it bonds to itself, not the pipe.
          – JimmyJames
          yesterday












        • @JimmyJames That's self-amalgamating tape, and it's only suitable for temporary use until a proper repair can be made.
          – Andrew Morton
          14 hours ago
















        3














        I've had some success with this stuff - it's basically a fiber tape soaked in something like gorilla glue. But I'd only consider it a temporary repair. the right way is to cut the pipe and solder in a coupler.



        enter image description here






        share|improve this answer





















        • I've used 'self-sticking tape' (sorry I don't know the right term) for minor plumbing repairs. If you stretch it as you wrap it, you can get a watertight seal. It won't leave anything on the pipe either as it bonds to itself, not the pipe.
          – JimmyJames
          yesterday












        • @JimmyJames That's self-amalgamating tape, and it's only suitable for temporary use until a proper repair can be made.
          – Andrew Morton
          14 hours ago














        3












        3








        3






        I've had some success with this stuff - it's basically a fiber tape soaked in something like gorilla glue. But I'd only consider it a temporary repair. the right way is to cut the pipe and solder in a coupler.



        enter image description here






        share|improve this answer












        I've had some success with this stuff - it's basically a fiber tape soaked in something like gorilla glue. But I'd only consider it a temporary repair. the right way is to cut the pipe and solder in a coupler.



        enter image description here







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered yesterday









        CoAstroGeek

        1,5691715




        1,5691715












        • I've used 'self-sticking tape' (sorry I don't know the right term) for minor plumbing repairs. If you stretch it as you wrap it, you can get a watertight seal. It won't leave anything on the pipe either as it bonds to itself, not the pipe.
          – JimmyJames
          yesterday












        • @JimmyJames That's self-amalgamating tape, and it's only suitable for temporary use until a proper repair can be made.
          – Andrew Morton
          14 hours ago


















        • I've used 'self-sticking tape' (sorry I don't know the right term) for minor plumbing repairs. If you stretch it as you wrap it, you can get a watertight seal. It won't leave anything on the pipe either as it bonds to itself, not the pipe.
          – JimmyJames
          yesterday












        • @JimmyJames That's self-amalgamating tape, and it's only suitable for temporary use until a proper repair can be made.
          – Andrew Morton
          14 hours ago
















        I've used 'self-sticking tape' (sorry I don't know the right term) for minor plumbing repairs. If you stretch it as you wrap it, you can get a watertight seal. It won't leave anything on the pipe either as it bonds to itself, not the pipe.
        – JimmyJames
        yesterday






        I've used 'self-sticking tape' (sorry I don't know the right term) for minor plumbing repairs. If you stretch it as you wrap it, you can get a watertight seal. It won't leave anything on the pipe either as it bonds to itself, not the pipe.
        – JimmyJames
        yesterday














        @JimmyJames That's self-amalgamating tape, and it's only suitable for temporary use until a proper repair can be made.
        – Andrew Morton
        14 hours ago




        @JimmyJames That's self-amalgamating tape, and it's only suitable for temporary use until a proper repair can be made.
        – Andrew Morton
        14 hours ago











        2














        You could lay a coating of solder on the pipe, preferably a silver bearing alloy, but you would have to drain that pipe and have "it bone dry". You could clean the copper, drop the boiler pressure to near zero so the drip stops and lay on a coat of fast dry epoxy. These are 2 ideas, hope this helps Also, Home DEpot sells a 1/2" copper compression X compression repair coupling in a 12 lingth length.






        share|improve this answer























        • I can't remember how many times I had tried, but it took until I had about 10y experience to be able to lay a worthwhile bead over a crack in a copper pipe. But it's not a giant split from freezing that you have to squish back together. Here, I'd give even a novice a 50/50 shot on success the first time, assuming they clean it right, flux it, and don't burn a hole in the pipe.
          – Mazura
          19 hours ago
















        2














        You could lay a coating of solder on the pipe, preferably a silver bearing alloy, but you would have to drain that pipe and have "it bone dry". You could clean the copper, drop the boiler pressure to near zero so the drip stops and lay on a coat of fast dry epoxy. These are 2 ideas, hope this helps Also, Home DEpot sells a 1/2" copper compression X compression repair coupling in a 12 lingth length.






        share|improve this answer























        • I can't remember how many times I had tried, but it took until I had about 10y experience to be able to lay a worthwhile bead over a crack in a copper pipe. But it's not a giant split from freezing that you have to squish back together. Here, I'd give even a novice a 50/50 shot on success the first time, assuming they clean it right, flux it, and don't burn a hole in the pipe.
          – Mazura
          19 hours ago














        2












        2








        2






        You could lay a coating of solder on the pipe, preferably a silver bearing alloy, but you would have to drain that pipe and have "it bone dry". You could clean the copper, drop the boiler pressure to near zero so the drip stops and lay on a coat of fast dry epoxy. These are 2 ideas, hope this helps Also, Home DEpot sells a 1/2" copper compression X compression repair coupling in a 12 lingth length.






        share|improve this answer














        You could lay a coating of solder on the pipe, preferably a silver bearing alloy, but you would have to drain that pipe and have "it bone dry". You could clean the copper, drop the boiler pressure to near zero so the drip stops and lay on a coat of fast dry epoxy. These are 2 ideas, hope this helps Also, Home DEpot sells a 1/2" copper compression X compression repair coupling in a 12 lingth length.







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited yesterday

























        answered yesterday









        d.george

        5,0762613




        5,0762613












        • I can't remember how many times I had tried, but it took until I had about 10y experience to be able to lay a worthwhile bead over a crack in a copper pipe. But it's not a giant split from freezing that you have to squish back together. Here, I'd give even a novice a 50/50 shot on success the first time, assuming they clean it right, flux it, and don't burn a hole in the pipe.
          – Mazura
          19 hours ago


















        • I can't remember how many times I had tried, but it took until I had about 10y experience to be able to lay a worthwhile bead over a crack in a copper pipe. But it's not a giant split from freezing that you have to squish back together. Here, I'd give even a novice a 50/50 shot on success the first time, assuming they clean it right, flux it, and don't burn a hole in the pipe.
          – Mazura
          19 hours ago
















        I can't remember how many times I had tried, but it took until I had about 10y experience to be able to lay a worthwhile bead over a crack in a copper pipe. But it's not a giant split from freezing that you have to squish back together. Here, I'd give even a novice a 50/50 shot on success the first time, assuming they clean it right, flux it, and don't burn a hole in the pipe.
        – Mazura
        19 hours ago




        I can't remember how many times I had tried, but it took until I had about 10y experience to be able to lay a worthwhile bead over a crack in a copper pipe. But it's not a giant split from freezing that you have to squish back together. Here, I'd give even a novice a 50/50 shot on success the first time, assuming they clean it right, flux it, and don't burn a hole in the pipe.
        – Mazura
        19 hours ago











        2














        A common option in the UK (dunno if they are available in other countries) for fixing damaged copper pipes is a compression repair coupler. The coupling has compression fittings on both ends only one of which has a depth stop, so after cutting the pipe you can slide the fitting onto one pipe and then slide it back onto the other with minimal movement of the pipe ends.






        share|improve this answer





















        • Compression couplers are available but much more expensive, however for a novice this may reduce the chance of a leak +
          – Ed Beal
          yesterday
















        2














        A common option in the UK (dunno if they are available in other countries) for fixing damaged copper pipes is a compression repair coupler. The coupling has compression fittings on both ends only one of which has a depth stop, so after cutting the pipe you can slide the fitting onto one pipe and then slide it back onto the other with minimal movement of the pipe ends.






        share|improve this answer





















        • Compression couplers are available but much more expensive, however for a novice this may reduce the chance of a leak +
          – Ed Beal
          yesterday














        2












        2








        2






        A common option in the UK (dunno if they are available in other countries) for fixing damaged copper pipes is a compression repair coupler. The coupling has compression fittings on both ends only one of which has a depth stop, so after cutting the pipe you can slide the fitting onto one pipe and then slide it back onto the other with minimal movement of the pipe ends.






        share|improve this answer












        A common option in the UK (dunno if they are available in other countries) for fixing damaged copper pipes is a compression repair coupler. The coupling has compression fittings on both ends only one of which has a depth stop, so after cutting the pipe you can slide the fitting onto one pipe and then slide it back onto the other with minimal movement of the pipe ends.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered yesterday









        Peter Green

        1,923514




        1,923514












        • Compression couplers are available but much more expensive, however for a novice this may reduce the chance of a leak +
          – Ed Beal
          yesterday


















        • Compression couplers are available but much more expensive, however for a novice this may reduce the chance of a leak +
          – Ed Beal
          yesterday
















        Compression couplers are available but much more expensive, however for a novice this may reduce the chance of a leak +
        – Ed Beal
        yesterday




        Compression couplers are available but much more expensive, however for a novice this may reduce the chance of a leak +
        – Ed Beal
        yesterday











        1














        What I've done in the past is to saw a coupler in half lengthwise, use a file to remove the center ridge (unless you can find a "repair coupler" that lacks the ridge), thoroughly clean and flux the pipe and inside of the coupler, tie half of the coupler on with bare copper wire (after cleaning/fluxing it), then (after making sure the pipe is perfectly dry inside) sweat-solder the assembly. Of course, this requires a couple of inches clearance all around to allow soldering safely.



        Anymore, I'd just buy a SharkBite coupling, cut the pipe at the defect, then install that coupling.






        share|improve this answer


























          1














          What I've done in the past is to saw a coupler in half lengthwise, use a file to remove the center ridge (unless you can find a "repair coupler" that lacks the ridge), thoroughly clean and flux the pipe and inside of the coupler, tie half of the coupler on with bare copper wire (after cleaning/fluxing it), then (after making sure the pipe is perfectly dry inside) sweat-solder the assembly. Of course, this requires a couple of inches clearance all around to allow soldering safely.



          Anymore, I'd just buy a SharkBite coupling, cut the pipe at the defect, then install that coupling.






          share|improve this answer
























            1












            1








            1






            What I've done in the past is to saw a coupler in half lengthwise, use a file to remove the center ridge (unless you can find a "repair coupler" that lacks the ridge), thoroughly clean and flux the pipe and inside of the coupler, tie half of the coupler on with bare copper wire (after cleaning/fluxing it), then (after making sure the pipe is perfectly dry inside) sweat-solder the assembly. Of course, this requires a couple of inches clearance all around to allow soldering safely.



            Anymore, I'd just buy a SharkBite coupling, cut the pipe at the defect, then install that coupling.






            share|improve this answer












            What I've done in the past is to saw a coupler in half lengthwise, use a file to remove the center ridge (unless you can find a "repair coupler" that lacks the ridge), thoroughly clean and flux the pipe and inside of the coupler, tie half of the coupler on with bare copper wire (after cleaning/fluxing it), then (after making sure the pipe is perfectly dry inside) sweat-solder the assembly. Of course, this requires a couple of inches clearance all around to allow soldering safely.



            Anymore, I'd just buy a SharkBite coupling, cut the pipe at the defect, then install that coupling.







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered yesterday









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                0














                If the pipe sizes in your country do telescoping, then the next size up in copper pipe will fit exactly over your pipe as a sleeve. I would cut a small section of sleeve, removing the scratched section, and solder the sleeve into place.






                share|improve this answer








                New contributor




                Douglas Held is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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                  0














                  If the pipe sizes in your country do telescoping, then the next size up in copper pipe will fit exactly over your pipe as a sleeve. I would cut a small section of sleeve, removing the scratched section, and solder the sleeve into place.






                  share|improve this answer








                  New contributor




                  Douglas Held is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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                    0












                    0








                    0






                    If the pipe sizes in your country do telescoping, then the next size up in copper pipe will fit exactly over your pipe as a sleeve. I would cut a small section of sleeve, removing the scratched section, and solder the sleeve into place.






                    share|improve this answer








                    New contributor




                    Douglas Held is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                    Check out our Code of Conduct.









                    If the pipe sizes in your country do telescoping, then the next size up in copper pipe will fit exactly over your pipe as a sleeve. I would cut a small section of sleeve, removing the scratched section, and solder the sleeve into place.







                    share|improve this answer








                    New contributor




                    Douglas Held is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                    Check out our Code of Conduct.









                    share|improve this answer



                    share|improve this answer






                    New contributor




                    Douglas Held is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                    Check out our Code of Conduct.









                    answered yesterday









                    Douglas Held

                    1034




                    1034




                    New contributor




                    Douglas Held is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                    Check out our Code of Conduct.





                    New contributor





                    Douglas Held is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                    Check out our Code of Conduct.






                    Douglas Held is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                    Check out our Code of Conduct.























                        0














                        An option I haven't seen suggested, but one that I've seen several times and employed at least once myself, is to use a clamp to secure a rubber gasket. There are commercially made clamps
                        enter image description here



                        or you can cobble your own with a piece of inner tube and a hose clamp.



                        I wouldn't recommend these for concealed use, but where the patch will be accessible I think they're fine, and probably code-accepted in at least some cases.






                        share|improve this answer


























                          0














                          An option I haven't seen suggested, but one that I've seen several times and employed at least once myself, is to use a clamp to secure a rubber gasket. There are commercially made clamps
                          enter image description here



                          or you can cobble your own with a piece of inner tube and a hose clamp.



                          I wouldn't recommend these for concealed use, but where the patch will be accessible I think they're fine, and probably code-accepted in at least some cases.






                          share|improve this answer
























                            0












                            0








                            0






                            An option I haven't seen suggested, but one that I've seen several times and employed at least once myself, is to use a clamp to secure a rubber gasket. There are commercially made clamps
                            enter image description here



                            or you can cobble your own with a piece of inner tube and a hose clamp.



                            I wouldn't recommend these for concealed use, but where the patch will be accessible I think they're fine, and probably code-accepted in at least some cases.






                            share|improve this answer












                            An option I haven't seen suggested, but one that I've seen several times and employed at least once myself, is to use a clamp to secure a rubber gasket. There are commercially made clamps
                            enter image description here



                            or you can cobble your own with a piece of inner tube and a hose clamp.



                            I wouldn't recommend these for concealed use, but where the patch will be accessible I think they're fine, and probably code-accepted in at least some cases.







                            share|improve this answer












                            share|improve this answer



                            share|improve this answer










                            answered 3 hours ago









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                            36228






























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